QTDDTOT

[Anonymous No.1160122]

no QTDDTOT? starting one with my own question.
noob here. anything I can do to make this cable straight again? why the f does that even happen? (siemens vacuum cleaner, old)

[Anonymous No.1160128]

Cut one off that toaster you never use. Problem solved.

[Anonymous No.1160129]

I need answer too

[Anonymous No.1160134]

>long untangled cable
>not a circular section
Pick one

[Anonymous No.1160155]

and how do I fix this rusty part in my dishwasher?

[Anonymous No.1160157]

>>1160155
Cut it off, then seal the edges.

[Anonymous No.1160161]

Whats a good and affordable brand of bms for lithium packs of all sizes? Getting a spot welder soon.

[Anonymous No.1160253]

What size nut is this? Doesn't fit into any of the metric nut size charts I've looked at.

[Anonymous No.1160262]

>>1160122
Untwist that shit the best you can.
Tie one end to a doorknob. Make sure it has some tension.
Use a heat gun or a hairdryer and make a few passes down the cord. That should take some of the twist out of it.


THEN STOP TWISTING IT SO GOD DAMN MUCH.

[Anonymous No.1160265]

>>1160253
You trolling or something? Measure it properly.
That said, I'd guess M4.

[Anonymous No.1160267]

>>1160265
What's the right way to measure it?

[Anonymous No.1160274]

>>1160267
you measure the threaded rod it goes on and the pitch between threads

the hex face distances can vary wildly and have no standards

[Anonymous No.1160276]

>>1160274
That seems kinda dumb, the nut is supposed to fit into a hole. How am I supposed to find the right sized nut if there's no standard?

[Anonymous No.1160279]

>>1160253

Are you measuring it using the indented parts of the jaws? That is wrong. Move further down the jaws.

[Anonymous No.1160281]

>>1160279
Didn't even realize it was like that, I thought it was completely flat. Now I feel like a retard. Thanks for pointing that out.

[Anonymous No.1160282]

>>1160253
You're measuring with the clearance area of the jaws
Move the nut out further on the jaws

>>1160276
Just measure it and take the calipers with you to the hardware store.
Or take another nut with you. A bit smaller outside wouldn't hurt anything

[Anonymous No.1160284]

>>1160282
TIL how to use a caliper properly. Also I'm going to be ordering them online along with some other stuff so I won't be able to check. Just measured it properly though and it seems to be an M4 nut, so I should be good. Thanks for the help anons.

Also, how do I measure screws to determine what size they are?

[Anonymous No.1160330]

>>1160122
I can make anything straight again.

[Anonymous No.1160332]

>>1160262
Do this, plus, when you wind it, wind in a figure-of-eight pattern instead of a simple loop. This reduces tangling and twisting.

[Anonymous No.1160361]

>>1160122

Attach weight to bottom, hold vertical.

[Anonymous No.1160370]

>>1160284
M metric thread the number i.e. the 4 in M4 is the size in millimeters of the 'MAJOR' diameter which is from the peak on one side to the peak on the other side. this is pretty easy to measure for a bolt, you just basically measure the diameter of the threaded bit and then round it up. the reason you round it up is because the major diameter is where the point/peak of the thread jabby bit would be, depending on the material the jabby tip top bit is rounded or cut off to make it turn easier so you lose a little bit off the diameter.

tldr: an M4 bolt the threaded part will be to all intents and purposes 4mm in diameter.

nuts are harder, you need to measure the inside of it then look up a table or something.

the dimensions of the head of a bolt or nut will also be nicely rounded off millimeter size for a metric bolt because of course you have to be able to get a spanner over it! i'm pretty sure the size of a nut/bolt head are fixed to the thread diameter but i wouldn't stake my life on it.

what's more likely to fuck you up is the thickness of the nut if you need it to not stick out or something.

[Anonymous No.1160381]

How thick should the bolt rails on a blowback 9mm be?

[Anonymous No.1160387]

What does tightening to foot-pounds mean in terms of AR-15 buffer tube nuts?

[Anonymous No.1160562]

>>1160370
Thanks for the explanation, was very helpful. The one at the top of pic related is the one that goes into the nuts I've got, so that would be an M4, then. I take it that M4 screws correspond to M4 nuts, which is sensible.

The screws I'm actually after are the 2nd and 3rd one though. Guessing that would be an M3. From what I gather, the length of the screw varies so I just need to find an appropriate length M3 screw?

[Anonymous No.1160569]

>>1160562
I don't know what screws those are, but certainly they aren't metric machine screws.

[Anonymous No.1160571]

>>1160330
With enough amps, it would work.

[Anonymous No.1160572]

>>1160569
That's kind of a problem. What makes you say that?

[Anonymous No.1160587]

>>1160572
Pic related is an M4 machine screw.

Yours looks more like a plastic or sheet metal screw.

[Anonymous No.1160677]

>>1160587
That would make sense, they're used to hold a metal panel in place on a plastic case. Any advice on how I'd go about IDing this screw?

[Anonymous No.1160728]

So Im having trouble installing this. Water is not leaking at thread but its leaking at arrow.
I also noticed i can wiggle, pull and push the hose so im assuming there still space eventhough i already the tighten the thread. Hmm how guys

[Anonymous No.1160730]

>>1160728
That seals with.a washer,.not e
With.threads. Check the washer

[Anonymous No.1160734]

>>1160730
You mean the white seal gasket thing? It's new and it look fine.
I also noticed male thread on the angle valve is shorter than the female thread in the hose fitting. Maybe that's why it loose.

[Anonymous No.1160803]

>>1160677
'M' is a thread standard to make sure nuts and bolts work together, machine screw will 99.999% of the time screw into a nut or something like a threaded insert that is pressed into plastic but its still basically a nut but not really.
Third screw doesn't look metric because of the thread, metric thread if you look at the profile is triangular, the screw in the picture there are big gaps between the threads, its not equal, indicates it's for plastic because plastic is soft and shit, it's probably self tapping which means the screw cut it's own thread in the plastic the first time it was used, usual clues at bits cut out or a slight taper at the end like a wood screw. But the space between the teeth shows it's leaving plenty material vs the material cut for the teeth because plastic is malleable it would just snap or break if the threads were too fine.

As a side note not all 'M' screw will work with each other, the thread pitch can vary, usually it's a whole number of millimeters but small sizes goes to maybe .5mm etc.

Machine screws because they aren't self tapping you could easily cut to size with a hacksaw and clean up with a file if you need a specific length, not necessarily true with self tapers but possible depending on the mechanism of how it cuts the thread.

I have no fucking idea about plastic screws sorry! Probably like wood screw the size will be a gauge, check out some screw gauge charts and measure the dimensions to see how close you can get. Probably measure the pitch too.

[Anonymous No.1160805]

>>1160803
Thanks for all the info and putting up with my ignorance. I guess I'll just get the nuts for now because they seem to be metric sized.

Upon closer inspection, I do think the screws I'm after are self-tapping. I didn't think so at first because the tip wasn't pointy, but I have another plastic case that uses screws in a similar manner and they are quite clearly self-tapping. The screw pictured before fits into the threads made by those screws as well, so I guess I'll look into that variety a bit more. I think something like pic related is what I'm after.

[Anonymous No.1160845]

I have this R2D2 figure which is roughly 1/12 scale. The 'light' under his eye is just a piece of translucent plastic which doesn't really give him the look I want.

His dome is mostly hollow so I'm wondering if this is enough room to fit some kind of colour changing LED behind the clear plastic piece.

Any ideas how I could incorporate this into the figure?

[Anonymous No.1160867]

>>1160734
if it wiggles around, it isn't going to seal.
That part must be firmly pressed against the valve so that the white gasket is compressed and seals the connection.

[Anonymous No.1160868]

>>1160845
>buy cheap rgb smd led
>stick in, hotglue
>solder 3 potentiometers
>adjust RGB

Alternatively, you can see if you can fit an arduino pro mini in there, it should be 33mm x 17mm, so it might fit. You can get those for like 2 bucks. With that you can have it change color however you want.
If it doesn't fit, you could always ditch the board and just use the chip, or cut the useless parts of the board, but maybe that's past your skills if you never done anything like that.

[Anonymous No.1160875]

You can get all this shit from ebay too, I'm listing aliexpress just because it's cheaper, but if you order from china via ebay it will be almost as cheap.


SMDs
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-Ultra-Bright-3528-LED-SMD-RGB-Chip-Surface-Mount-Light-Emitting-Diode-LED-1210-SMT/32789272419.html


Full sized (harder to find space and harder to direct light)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-1000pcs-DC5V-Diffused-round-hat-RGB-LED-with-WS2811-chipset-inside-5mm-F5-8mm-F8/32713415299.html

Depending on how much light you want and how much space you have, you'll chose one of the two type of leds.


pro mini (atmega328, 5V)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-1pcs-lot-ATMEGA328P-Pro-Mini-328-Mini-ATMEGA328-5V-16MHz-for-Arduino/32291252874.html

If you have space you can put this inside the body and just bring up the four wires for the led.
You'll need to power it with 5V, so you must have a power supply, or if the thing is already powered you'll need a converter if it's not 5V.
A 7805 will do, there is a regulator onboard on pin RAW but I doubt it can provide 100mA if dropping from 12v to 5 without overheating.
If you're not running the leds at full power, even the onboard regulator might do, do your homework on this.

[Anonymous No.1160992]

>>1160361
This, did it with my old Xbox controllers all the time. They'd get twisted since I travelled with them (so wound them up) a lot. A day of hanging by the connector straightened them out pretty satisfyingly.

[Anonymous No.1161000]

>>1160253
>What size nut is this?
1/4" wrench or socket will turn that well.
If you want to know what size bolt it fits you're measuring it wrong.

[Anonymous No.1161001]

Is there any reason you can think of that I couldn't use these motors, 4 total, to motorize something that carries around 50-100 pounds?
24v dc
Think a 4WD stroller, custom wheels, sized accordingly. PWM speed controller. 0 experience in DC electronics.
This is also assuming they work and have a useful shaft.

[Anonymous No.1161015]

>>1161001
>This is also assuming they work and have a useful shaft.
Worst case scenario you can remove the motor and let it spin and grind it with an angle grinder until the shaft is not a screw anymore.

If you're asking about using them like that, it really depends what you're using them for.
Judging from the size, I think they're pretty geared down, meaning slow.
You also need to find out how much torque they can hold or you'll shear the gears and end up with your stroller rolling downhill and I think that's something you don't want.
If you only use them on flat roads there's no problem, you'll just need to have the controller control the braking too.

[Anonymous No.1161020]

>>1160805
nobody is born knowing anything
something different as long as its not too different will probably work out fine, if it cuts a new thread then it cuts a new thread, just cross your fingers it doesn't pull all the material out and fuck your shit

[Anonymous No.1161033]

>>1161015
Ahh shit. You're right. I'm sitting here thinking they're like a standard AC motor with a solid shaft and a slip on gear deal.

Thanks for the insight. I'll open it up to see if it's worth a damn.

[Anonymous No.1161040]

Bought my self a house.
No idea how to decorate it.

Colours, paint, wallpaper, where should i get inspiration from?

Oh, and is it good enough to just paint stone/concrete so that it didn't keep giving off dust, or does it need to specific type of paint?

[Anonymous No.1161086]

>>1161000
I wanted to know how big it was so I could buy some more but I already got it sorted, thanks.

>>1161020
Yeah, I ordered a few that should be roughly the same size in the end. Hopefully it works out well.

[Anonymous No.1161382]

How might I repair this chair? The material is flaking off mostly on the seat but also a few other places

[Anonymous No.1161384]

>>1161382
bonded leather isn't repairable, nor is pleather, nor is simuleather
you have to re-upholster completely the damaged portion of the article; you can't fix it otherwise

[Anonymous No.1161391]

>>1161384

I assumed that would be the case. Maybe I will use it as an experiment in reupholstery.

[Anonymous No.1161487]

>>1161384

Yeah unless you want to give it the old duct tape treatment, a reupholster is the only solution.

[Anonymous No.1162574]

>>1161040
>No idea how to decorate it.

Get married. It will all be out of your control then.

[Anonymous No.1162686]

>>1161040
It's a real shame idiots like you can afford a house but I will never have the opportunity to own one because I was tricked into going to college in 2008.

[Anonymous No.1162738]

>>1162686
>It's a real shame idiots like you can afford a house ... I was tricked into going to college in 2008.

It's a real shame idiots like you wasted their time and money on college and are still idiots.

[Anonymous No.1162796]

>>1162686
>Went to university (UK)
>started 2007, graduated 2013 (2 years then 4 year course)
>Worked hard and saved money
>Bought January

Yeah, because I'm clearly an idiot.

It's the first time I've ever had this opportunity. To decorate my own place.

[Anonymous No.1162799]

What are good places to buy acrylic, or is it just shop for deals and pay what you pay?

[Anonymous No.1162806]

>>1162799
there is a great little shop just down the street from me that sells acrylic offcuts and scrap for practically nothing, just an outlet to get rid of workshop extras rather than pay to get it disposed.

[Coconut !hEpdoZ.tHU No.1162808]

Wrap it around a spool or something circular really tight. That will make it coiled and easier to stretch out..maybe.

[Anonymous No.1162822]

How do i build my own Dildo-Machine for less than 100€ ?

[Anonymous No.1163003]

>>1160122
I accidentally set fire to my kettle which resulted in this burn mark on the kitchen counter of the flat I rent. I am hoping to disguise it before I move out. Is there any way I can achieve it?

[Anonymous No.1163010]

I need to upgrade my paint (not really for paint) brushes to something that doesn't shed as bad as my dog and doesn't leave as obvious of hair lines.

What keywords should i be using to search? I keep getting chinese trash in my results and nothing that looks particularly top shelf

[Anonymous No.1163031]

>>1163003
what material is that? if it's granite you can probably scrub it with some fine abrasive. if it's laminate you'll probably only make it stand out more

[Anonymous No.1163038]

>>1163031
I believe it's plastic laminate. So I guess im fucked. I was hoping there would be some way to stain it or something just so it doesn't stand out as much

[Anonymous No.1163041]

>>1163038

You could try to get some similar colored art markers and some lacquer thinner/acetone...try to color it in a bit I guess...

The Lacq thinner will wipe the marker ink off if you fuck it up...just don't get it on other soft plastics or vynals...they will melt...

[Anonymous No.1163045]

>>1163041
Thanks man will give it a go, can't get any worse, if it works it hopefully won't come out my deposit

[Anonymous No.1163213]

So my friend has this chip in his kitchen counter. It's vinyl made with mdf. Any way of fixing this?

[Anonymous No.1163239]

>>1163213
Cut out a square from a place which is fairly hidden like a side facing a fridge. Cut the chip out at the same size and switch them around. The straight lines would be much easier hide with some colored ad-sieve.

Did that in my last place, you could only tell if you knew it was there.

[Anonymous No.1163317]

Does anyone here own one of these? Could you post a picture of how it mounts on the saw? I'm trying to confirm that I'm not actually crazy, and it's just that neither of my saws have the proper mounting holes for it. I have an old-ass Craftsman worm drive, and a dirt cheap Skil 13A sidewinder.

[Anonymous No.1163342]

>>1163317
>neither of my saws have the proper mounting holes for it
I don't think it needs holes.
The two screws just clamp to the bottom plate of the saw.
(two slots accommodate left or right side blade on saw)

[Anonymous No.1163369]

>>1163317
other anon is right about the screws clamping but it doesn't always work. my dewalt 20v has an up beveled front so the clamping action just rocks it forward. ymmv

[Anonymous No.1163445]

>>1163342
>>1163369
Shit, you guys are right, I just reread the manual. I feel dumb. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.1163493]

>>1162686
There is always hope your parents or grandparents will give you a house

[Anonymous No.1163510]

Will 15 x 5mm screws be enough to support this shelf?
9 screws will be placed at the bottom and 6 more at the top (3 at each side), you can probably see the holes in which the screws will be inserted. The wall is made out of concrete and bricks.
The shelf is made out of pine wood, 18mm thick.

I fear the weight on the shelf will cause the whole thing to fall down.
The shelf itself weighs a considerable amount.
It should be able to withstand around 100kg of tools, cans of paint, batteries...

I was planning on adding two support beams at each side to support the front of the shelf and rest the weight on the workbench in case the screws are not enough.

[Anonymous No.1163512]

>>1163510
I forgot the picture.

[Anonymous No.1163620]

i have a bunch of aluminum ingots sitting around i melted from soda cans and heatsinks. i want to start casting these into round/squarestock and bricks for milling and lathing. how do i go about making sure that there are no trapped air bubbles or pock marks in the final product?

[Anonymous No.1163624]

>>1160122
Wire heats up as it's used. Gets coiled, knotted, kinked, and cools.. plastic sets, and presto, you get an effing mess.
Let it sit in the sun till it's nice and soft. smooth it out and set a couple books on it till it cools.

[Anonymous No.1163628]

>>1160155
cut paint back to where there is no rust.
Light sanding followed with rust preventer.
Paint with enamel paint then let dry

[Anonymous No.1163633]

>>1163628
sorry, s/enamel/epoxy/;

[Anonymous No.1163634]

Will this thing give me cancer?

[Anonymous No.1163640]

>>1163628

available in three colors
white - biscuit - almond
three to four dollars each

[Anonymous No.1163669]

>>1163634
No, that's what /b is for.

[Anonymous No.1163749]

Dropped my toshiba Tecra laptop on a concrete. How do I know if I didn't damage anything? currently posting with it now.

>No cracked Screen
>Rebooted and restored internet pages fine

Any other shit I should test out?

[Anonymous No.1163753]

>>1163749
run hardware diagnostics?

[Anonymous No.1163756]

>>1163512
>>1163510

if it really is concrete, PREDRILL the proper sized hole for the screws, hammer drill will save you TONS of headache, like a real hammer drill, not a battery powered drill with the stupid ass "vibrating your hands not doing shit at the chuck"

but yeah they should be more then enough to hold, if you want smear something like the stuff they use to glue down sub floors, construction adhesive. onto the threads before you screw them in. that stuff bonds to concrete pretty damn well, so plus the threads strength, you "stabilize" and tighten up any gaps/missing concrete chunks/voids in the concrete with the glue.

remember always over engineer, its better to look bulky then to be hurt or dead.

[Anonymous No.1163759]

>>1163753
Everything was ok, forgot about the hardware diagnostics. thanks anon

[Anonymous No.1163794]

>>1163756
I always predrill and insert one of these before screwing the bolt, they're faily secure, I hope 15 screws are enough.

[Anonymous No.1163892]

The fuck do you call this rubber part that covers cables?

Has ridges so it can expand and squash easily and made of a sort of rubber-like material.

No, it's not ducting.

[Anonymous No.1163898]

>>1163892
Wire bellow?

[Anonymous No.1163901]

>>1163892
harness sleeve or cable sleeve
>imo

[Anonymous No.1163908]

>>1161001
They're quite decent units, but you would need more info on speed/output/etc.

[Anonymous No.1163910]

>>1161382
You need to get the bottom cushion reupholstered m8

[Anonymous No.1163911]

>>1163898
Bellow was exactly what I needed, thanks.

I need it for apperance rather than functionality.

[Anonymous No.1163926]

I'm not sure what style you'd call my house but it's essentially an end terrace with the kitchen and garage on the ground floor with stairs leading up to all the other rooms. There's no communicating door between the house and the garage but I'd like to add a one.

The issue is that there's a rather useful cupboard behind the stairs where a full sized door would naturally go and this would reduce an excellent storage space to a narrow corridor. How stupid would it be to put a 3/4 height door in the back of the cupboard under the stairs and is a surveyor required or is a builder alone sufficient?

[Anonymous No.1163954]

Are there any simple resources to get yourself into doing basic home repairs?

I need to become a man who doesn't need to call a repairer for simple things.

[Anonymous No.1164069]

>>1163954
Youtube does it for me in case I don't know how something is done, without visual aid I can't be bothered to learn anything. Although I normally rely on intuition.

[Anonymous No.1164075]

>>1163756
Thanks, I bolted the thing today and it seems rock solid. I was able to hang from it without bulging.

[Anonymous No.1164124]

>>1164069

Yeah youtube isn't bad, though you have to do your homework and be careful.

Some people are legitimately retarded and very lucky shit doesn't go wrong with the way they do things.

[Anonymous No.1164300]

just finished my leather bag

should I round the flap corners?

[Anonymous No.1164423]

>>1163892
It's a cable guide or cable boot rather than strain relief but that's the family it's from, you will find it with the strain relief parts in the shop.
I don't know the technical name for the concertina folding

[Anonymous No.1164549]

made a thread without noticing this one, so:

>>1164538

[Anonymous No.1164552]

>>1164300
why not make a triangle?

[Anonymous No.1164556]

My dishwasher finishes its cycle normally, and then drains water onto the floor. The exit pipe is routed through a garbage disposal that is no longer working.
Can I assume that the water is backing up at the disposal?
Can I solve my problem by just tossing the disposal and rerouting the drainage pipe directly to my sink's drainage?

[Anonymous No.1164647]

>>1164556
>Can I assume that the water is backing up at the disposal?

Even if it backs up into the disposal it shouldn't get on the floor unless the disposal leaks.
You may have a hole/crack in the drain line or the disposer has a leak in it.
Does water get on the floor if you run water into the disposal side of the sink?
You can remove the disposal and add an adapter like pic related.

[Anonymous No.1164785]

What do you guys think is a reasonable price that I could build a 10x10 cuck shed for? It has to be insulated and I am in the U.S.

[Anonymous No.1165044]

What would be better for cutting metal, a vertical bandsaw, a miter bandsaw (idk the actual name but the one that you use like a chop saw), or an abrasive chop saw? It will be for various steels and aluminums, mostly 1/4" thick or less. Assume they're all about the same price.

[Anonymous No.1165086]

Has anyone ever built their own car gauge cluster? How did it turn out and what did you do to get the desired look (nixie tubes, VFD, cold cathode, LCD, LEDs, etc.)?

[Anonymous No.1165119]

>>1160122
Ive been doing a lot of handyman work lately. I would like a form to fill out so I can show people in a more official way, my start and end date and the labor amount. Anyone have maybe some form I can just print out? I don't need it notarized, just need something I can get signatures on. I've had to fight a few people now over getting paid, and want to avoid this in the future.

[Anonymous No.1165227]

>>1160253
take the nut to the bolt shop, they will measure it for you. You need to know the thread pitch. you cant do that with calipers

[Anonymous No.1165230]

>>1160276
you need to take that bit with you to the bolt shop too. That's the only way you will get it right.

[Anonymous No.1165805]

>>1160122
Can someone explain to me how to put one of these once the hole is already done, please?

So I take off the thing in the end, do I leave it?

[Anonymous No.1165818]

>>1165805
The tapered section on the end seems to be reversed. In other similar drop-in anchors it usually seems like that piece faces inward, the point toward the collar that is made to spread and lock things in place.

Anyhow, you vac' or blow out the hole to remove the concrete dust, drop in the anchor with a bit of persuasion and turn the eye-bolt. The bolt wedges the lowest section into the outer shell and is slowly pulled in as it tightens, bending the metal against the hole. Turn turn turn until it turns no more, probably. Should be instructions with the packing. Injecting some kind of resin into the hole as well may be an option, it depends on the use.

>>1165119
Check your local office depot (or similar) store for "purchase order books" or "order receipt" books with carbonless copy sheets. Match with a nice professional-looking clipboard and pen hanging on a ball chain and you can be all set to get signatures, give them a COPY, put a copy with the file you will be keeping related paperwork in and a third in your records. Afterwards you can use any of the free templates out there to craft a finished invoice for them to sign, agree to terms&services, etc.

[Anonymous No.1165822]

>>1165818
Do you need to own a business to do something like this? Can I report it as "other income" on taxes?

[Anonymous No.1165825]

>>1165805
You put it in the hole and then turn the nut to tighten it. Tightening the nut pushes the central part over the tapered end part which forces it open, against the walls of the hole. The friction against the hole keeps it fixed in there.
So yeah you need the nut.
Didn't you get instructions with it?
These anchors are usually very particular about holes, loads, torque etc for particular wall materials. They should definitely explain how to put it in the hole.
Make sure you blow out all the dust, dust will ruin your day, but so will blowing it into your own face so be careful. Thru sell a special air pump like a balloon pump specifically for this for 10x the cost.

[Anonymous No.1165830]

>>1165822
>I AM NOT AN EXPERT IN TAXATION

anyhow, if you are operating as "Handy Bill" you might at the least need to register a DBA (DoingBusinessAs) so that you can be John Smith DBA: Handy Bill Handywork and make it easier to make bank accounts/cash checks in that name.

That said, you should really get some more substantial help and create an actual business. Incorporate. There are tax reasons but even more there are liability reasons. If you burn down someone's house they can (and should) take every penny you have or will ever make. If someone who works for Handy Bill, a division of Handy Bill Incorporated, burns down someone's house they can (and should) sue THAT CORPORATE ENTITY, who only has a little money (most of it spent on pay) and no property/tools/truck to take.

That is the most basic idea.
>I AM NOT A LAWYER
>BEWARE

[Anonymous No.1165869]

>>1165805
>So I take off the thing in the end, do I leave it?

This is how it works

[Anonymous No.1166032]

>>1160122
Not sure if this is the place for this, but roughly how difficult would repairing my Sennheiser PC 350 SE headset be? My camera is a shitty low resolution pieces of trash so I hope this stock photo will suffice. I think there's something fucked with the wire around the point where it goes into the headset frame (circled).
>worked fine until maybe a week ago
>now everything sounds quieter and more suppressed like an echo
>voices in music and games seem to be hit the worst, sounding really far off and ghost-like, or completely gone
>sometimes there's no sound at all
>this is affecting both ears
>microphone appears to be working fine
>wire seems to be bent at the end of the plastic connector (marked in pic) and the plastic bit has a curve to it now
>if I tweak the wire at the right angle everything comes through clearly like it's supposed to, but I have to apply pressure to keep it there
>not seeing any visible screws to access the interior
I could probably jury rig a paper clip to keep the wire in place and sounding alright, but I would rather have a more permanent fix.

[Anonymous No.1166228]

>>1160122
Why bothet wrapping it up? Just make a big wad and throw it in the closet. Save your dumb ass some time. Wanna fix the problem? Throw it in the garbage and learn how to wrap a cord properly. How come the majority of everyone on earth doesn't know how to wrap up a hose or cord? These are always the same people that can't untangle knots either. Fucking idiots.

[Anonymous No.1167155]

anyone got any driveway hacks?

I need to fill in a driveway to my house, and then also branch i off into a round about driveway, which I've already been driving on, so it's mostly just dirt now anyway

[Anonymous No.1167530]

Hey guys, does anybody have any idea why my auxiliary lights on the front of jeep aren't working? Is it possible that my relay is too old? The lighting setup is around 10 years old. I'll attach pictures. I've checked the grounding wire, and both the headlights aren't working so it's not the bulbs.

[Anonymous No.1167532]

>>1167530

[Anonymous No.1167534]

>>1167530
>>1167532

[Anonymous No.1167862]

Is there anything worth doing with graphite dust? This is what comes off of my crucible when I give it a light scrape to clear off stuck slag and crap before I make a pour. Btw this isn't from 1 pour, this is an accumulation over 3-4 pours and 2 crucibles.

[Anonymous No.1168091]

Two unrelates questions:

1.) Can I coat my tools in vegetable oil and bake them multiple times to prevent rust and dirt accumulation? Like how cast iron and carbon steel pans are seasoned to make them more rust resilient and nonstick.

2.) How viable is it to buy shitty cheap exercise equipment and then reinforce them by bolting on hardware store steel? I don't have a lot of money for a real proper one, and and welding isn't something my landlord would be too happy with if I caused the building to get set on fire (and is forbidden outside.)

[Anonymous No.1168467]

When does an S-trap become a P-trap? Or how much straight pipe has to be in between for it not to be an S-trap? I hope that makes sense.

[Anonymous No.1168480]

How hard would it be to modify an 18v harbor freight battery to fit other brand tools? Or just any sale battery for a brand I didn't buy into.

Like using a dremel to shape the plastic so it fits and adding something to keep it clipped in if possible.

[Anonymous No.1168517]

Should i buy the harbor freight 14" bandsaw?

I need a 14" for some stuff i plan on

[Anonymous No.1168642]

I found a totally dead iphone by the road. Screen was missing and dents all over back cover.
I can't think of anything meaningful to do with this.

[Anonymous No.1168679]

>>1167862
If its pure enougb graphite dust makes a good dry lubricant

[Anonymous No.1168781]

I finally found why this thing didn't work with the adapter I used last time (this crappy adapter: https://i.imgur.com/nccuGQu.jpg)), it was just lacking power, it needs a complete power supply so I tried searching one and I found this:
https://i.imgur.com/FBLmnbk.jpg
>input: AC110-220V 50Hz/60Hz
>output: 12V DC, 5A

But I still don't understand how the amperes thing works, on the box of this compressor I read 12V 20A, while in the specs on the site says 12V 12A even though it's supposed to be the same model (same number).
I didn't find any 20A power supply (or transformer, whatever is the right name).
What am I supposed to use to make this thing work from a wall socket and not using a car?

[Anonymous No.1168803]

Alright, 2 questions relating to a kitchen remodel I'm currently undertaking. 1 is a design/aesthetic question, the second is an hvac question.

1. For flooring i'm doing lvp. I've decided on a particular one called "brazilian cherry" which looks like mahogany and nothing like cherry. Anyways, i'm going to build a mahogany table out of several boards. My question relates to the orientation of the boards. The lvp will run parallel to the hardwood in the next room and a butcher block that will be in the kitchen as well. The table will set perpendicular to this. I'm naturally inclinded to run the boards lengthwise, which will have the boards running perpendicular to both floors abd the butcher block. Should i run the boards widthwise parallel with the floor. Or should I just avoid the issue altogether and use some mahogany ply? Pic related is the best example I could find of what i'm refering to as width wise.

2. HVAC question. Currently the only vent in the kitchen is in the floor, directly under where a cabinet is going to go. It's about 6 feet from a vent that feeds an area in the basement. Should i use the existing vent and run it through the cabinet's toe board, remove the run and run a new one, or what I'm leaning toward, use the basement vent to feed the kitchen and use the pld kitchen vent to feed the same basement area? Or something different altogether. It's all circular 4 inch single wall. There's no cold air return in the kitchen.

I'd appreciate any input.

[Anonymous No.1168923]

Are there any good resources on building a computer desk from wood? I want something simple, but I want it to be pretty solid and not shake around. I use my computer desk as a workbench pretty often.

[Anonymous No.1168941]

>>1168781
>I didn't find any 20A power supply (or transformer, whatever is the right name).

About the only common supply that could deliver that kind of juice would be a PC's PSU. 20A is a fair bit of current, and a "proper" power supply to convert mains power into that much DC would cost you more than the pump did.

So, yeah, scrounge up an old PC and see if the PSU has >20A on the 12V rail. If so, use it.

[Anonymous No.1168944]

>>1168923
Do you care if it looks good?

Does it need drawers or cabinets?

[Anonymous No.1168948]

>>1168944
Looks don't matter much, just want it to be fairly big and not fall apart. I've never done anything with wood before. No drawers or anything fancy.

[Anonymous No.1168951]

>>1168803

Your table would shrink an inch or so lengthwise in winter if you made it from solid wood like that.

[Anonymous No.1168953]

Repostan from /g/:

I'm dabbling in electronics for the first time in my life. and I'm currently making a preamp according to this schematic.
My input is coming from a guitar clip-on pickup (fcp-21 if you bother to look it up) and by the looks of its jack has only the tip and the sleeve, so I'm guessing I should disregard the - part of the inupt and only connect the jack on the + part of the input, right? Also, it looks to me like output is going to be mono, or positive only, so when I connect the output to a jack, should I connect it only to the tip, even if the jack has both the tip and the ring?

[Anonymous No.1168991]

>>1168953

[Anonymous No.1169011]

>>1168953
Yes, I've researched jacks a bit before asking. I even plucked apart one of tho 6.9mm ones to see what's inside. I'm asking if the output is going to be positive only, so that I should connect it to the plus, or the tip of the jack.

[Anonymous No.1169013]

>>1169011
You have some fundamental misconceptions.
You can't have a circuit with only one connection.

[Anonymous No.1169017]

>>1169013
>You have some fundamental misconceptions.
It was inevitable
>You can't have a circuit with only one conenction
Where did I make that mistake? By thinking only positive charge will exit the schematic, or when I assumed that since the guitar clip produces only a plus charge that I shouldn't attach anything to the - part of the input?

[Anonymous No.1169032]

>>1168953
>Repostan from /g/:
>>1169011
>I've researched jacks a bit before asking
>>1169017
>Where did I make that mistake?

By not staying in /g/

[Anonymous No.1169036]

>>1169032
Wow, rude.

[Anonymous No.1169040]

>>1169036

[Anonymous No.1169054]

>>1169040
Ok, sorry for being bothersome.

So I need to connect input as so. The V+ is coming from the positive end of a battery, so should I connect the negative end to where ground needs to be? What do I do with ground? One more thing, I know which plate on the inside of the jack leads to the tip, that's where I'll connect output, but should I connect the negative plate or the ground plate towards ground in the schematic?

[Anonymous No.1169060]

>>1169054
>So I need to connect input as so.
yes
>>1169054
>The V+ is coming from the positive end of a battery, so should I connect the negative end to where ground needs to be?
yes>>1169054
>What do I do with ground?
It connects to any shielding (metal case, etc)>>1169054
>should I connect the negative plate or the ground plate towards ground in the schematic?
yes

[Anonymous No.1169063]

>>1169060
>>should I connect the negative plate or the ground plate towards ground in the schematic?
>yes
Then I'll connect them both.
Thank you for all the help.

[Anonymous No.1169069]

>>1169063
>Then I'll connect them both.
I didn't know you were talking about two different things.

two terminal jacks have a sleeve and tip connector
two terminal plugs have a sleevel and tip connector

If you'll correctly name what device you're referring to and which connection you're referring to we'll both understand what you're talking about.

[Anonymous No.1169105]

>>1168951
No it wouldn't

[Anonymous No.1169107]

>>1168948
Construction lumber, deck screws, wood glue, wood filler, sand paper, drill/impact driver, paint. Get the dimensions you want and build. Don't screw into endgrain, glue every joint, fill screw holes in with putty, sand smooth, then paint it. Cheap, easy, effective. Get a speed square and a tape measurer. Combo square is nice but not needed.

You could use plywood for the top, or 1 bys. Say you want the desk to be around 18 inches deep, use 2 1x10s. It'll take less work to use 1 bys and work around their dimensions, but plywood will give a uniform surface without planing or excess sanding.

If you have access to a router, table saw, or a bunch of clamps you can get something that looks pretty decent.

[Anonymous No.1169110]

>>1169107
Oh, and of course you'll need something to cut the wood. A back saw should do good for you, you can get them pretty cheap. Or a crosscut saw. All you'll be doing is cross cuts. I've had to use $5 ones in the past and they worked if nothing else. If you have a circular saw that's even better. Or best, a miter saw.

[Anonymous No.1169113]

>>1169110
Any tips for cutting straight with a circular saw? I can use sawzalls and bandsaws just fine, but circular saws always end up crooked for me.

[Anonymous No.1169116]

>>1169113
Straight edge, like a make shift fence. Rafter square and a clamp is a good one, just ride the base against it. They also sell clamping edge guides for sheet goods. Some people actually make jigs for their circular saws that do the same thing. Kreg makes a jig for about $30. Those also really only work for sheet goods. For dimensional lumber you're moslty stuck with clamps and straight edges. I recommend putting them on whatever side of the base that the motor isn't on. Nothing sucks like being halfway througha cut only to realize you need to move a clamp.

Other than that it's just practice. I used to cut osb for the sides of houses in new construction, cutting 60-120 panels a day got me to be almost perfect.

[Anonymous No.1169130]

Posted this in /ohm/ as well, but anyone here have any insight?

I know nothing about circuit design, so please excuse any ignorance.

Currently building this, have all the parts I need except for C3, 2.2 nF cap. Closest I could salvage is a 10 nF cap; what would happen if I replaced it with that? Should I also replace C4 with a 100 nF cap to maintain the ratio? Also, think this is a decent circuit? I picked it at random after googling tone control schematic. It'll go into a 12v portable boombox thing I'm building if that matters. Thanks for any help.

[Anonymous No.1169134]

>>1169130
>what would happen if I replaced it with that?
reduced range of treble control

[Anonymous No.1169135]

>>1169134
As in it'd affect less frequencies? Say 10k to 14k instead of 10k to 20k?

[Anonymous No.1169149]

>>1169135
http://www.learnabout-electronics.org/Amplifiers/amplifiers42.php

[Anonymous No.1169152]

>>1169149
Noice.

[Anonymous No.1169238]

>>1168941
so I've to open the cable up and mod it with a molex? I'm definitely going to get electro-shocked kek... maybe I should just give up and get /fit/ using a non-electric air pump instead.

[Anonymous No.1169259]

I want to make some projects, but I'm clueless about the plastic case.

This answer suggests you can buy them off the shelf and modify to your needs and that 3D printing is a lot of design work for a single case.
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/111840/make-a-custom-plastic-case

What's /diy/ take on this question?

[Anonymous No.1169284]

>>1169069
No need for confusion, I did it, I just gotta make it louder somehow now.

[Anonymous No.1169292]

>>1169060
>>1169069
I've done it, it works. But it's still kinda quiet. What do I need to do to make it louder? more than 9 volts on the V+?

[Anonymous No.1169297]

>>1169259
I use hammond boxes. For larger projects i either form sheet metal or braze metal stock together. Depends on what you're trying to make

[Anonymous No.1169380]

>>1169259
For homebuilt/prototype projects you can buy premade plastic cases or repurpose cases and containers from other things. Mint containers are a traditional staple for small electronics.

Mark out the holes you will make and then cut them. Don't use twist bits when drilling, you should use brad point (AKA spur point) bits as they cut the plastic for a more clean hole. Twist bits rip up the edges and will leave it looking fuzzy, and once plastic gets like that it is a bitch to clean up and hard to do evenly. As a bonus these types of bits work well on wood if that's your thing.

In certain applications metal cases will be better as the case can act as a heatsink. Altoids cans are nice for this but you can also use tin snips to cut apart empty aluminum drink/spray cans, flatten them into panels and then affix them together. You could just drill and use machine screws or go at it with the fire like >>1169297
If you go this path then do remember that different products have different can thicknesses.

[Anonymous No.1169468]

SoI inherited this gigantic air conpressor. Doing some basic maintenance on it. I can't seem to open the drain on it.

The wing nut would not turn, so I put a wrench on it and carefully tried to turn it. It finally broke free and spun but no air cane out. Seems the wing nut thing just broke; its now just turning with some resustance but not opening anything.

So: how do I fix this? Do I need to put a wrench on the other nut and replace the drain contraption? If so should I emptythe air from the tank first?

[Anonymous No.1169470]

>>1169468
What i'd do is make sure the tank is drained, remove the wing nut valve, and replace it with a small nipple, 90, larger nipple, and a ball valve.

But, fucking with old stuff you always run the risk of damaging something. Soak it with some kind of degreaser or solvent. I'd use brakleen(or generic brake cleaner) or mean green. Then I'd wiggle it with a pair of channel locks or vice grips(or their generic variants). I wouldn't clamp down, i'd only close the jaws enough to grip the edges of the wing firmly. The second you get movement in one direction flip them over and rotate in the other direction. Back and forth will eventually allow it to come to a fully open position.

If you decide to replace the valve like my first idea do not try to remove it if the tank is full, there is a high potential for harm to yourself, others, or property. A more extreme example is the guy who killed himself taking the valve off the compressed gas cylinder when it wasn't empty. It blew apart on him.

Use the yellow teflon tape.

[Anonymous No.1169472]

>>1169470
>>1169468
Sorry, didn't read your whole post. Yeah, put the proper size wrench on the brass hex head and take it off. If the tank is full get something like a blow gun and run it til the tank is completely empty. Do not rely on this method to drain the tank when not in use as a way to get around replacong the valve, the blow gun won't release the water that will collect in the bottom of the tank.

Or, cheaper than a blow gun, just put the connector for a house in the mouth of the outlet without the house. Or take off the quick connect at the end of the house and then plug it in.

[Anonymous No.1169473]

>>1169472
I typod hose as house twice, dammit.

[Anonymous No.1169490]

>>1169472
Gotcha. I just bought a new drain cock at Ace. I will attempt this another day. I just hope the old one comes out without issue. I'll let some PB soak in first. This thing is 50 years old and there could be corrosion right there.

[Anonymous No.1169518]

>>1169292
>What do I need to do to make it louder?
What are you trying to do?
I know you are connecting to some guitar pickup for the input but what are you connecting the output of the pre-amp to?

Post a photo of what you've built and show a closeup of the connections.

[Anonymous No.1169531]

>>1169490
More than likely not, at least in my experience. Put the proper size wrench on it, tap the end with a hammer. Tighten it first, clockwise, til it moves. It's the same trick they use on brake bleeder screws. Once you get it to move tightening it then you can loosen it without worry of it breaking.

[Anonymous No.1169704]

>>1160387
You need to tighten the nut to a specific torque rating. I don't deal with arms but I know in aero they do it according to the manufacturer ratings to ensure that nuts are tight enough without reducing the fatigue life of the frame. The specific value is empirical lab stuff. Anyway you need the following to do this
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench

[Anonymous No.1169720]

>>1169518
Here is the whole setup, next post will be a close up of the connections.

The plug with the white wires is the input plug, and the blue one is the output plug. My intuition tells me that to make it louder I need either a battery with more volts, like a 12v, or that I can put the output of this circuit as input to an identical one or something like that.

[Anonymous No.1169732]

>>1169720
Here is the close up with the schematic it follows. Everything is hooked up fine and it works OK as I've said.
I've marked with the red arrow the output of the circuit. If I make another identical circuit, could I then use the output of this one as the input for the next one?

[Anonymous No.1169735]

>>1169732
I mean that I would try and make another circuit like this on this same board, I wont screw around with more audio plugs/jacks

[Anonymous No.1169770]

>>1169720
>Here is the whole setup.
>The plug with the white wires is the input plug, and the blue one is the output plug

It looks fine (those are jacks, not plugs)
what do you feed the output to? a guitar amp? headphones?

>My intuition tells me that to make it louder I need either a battery with more volts, like a 12v

The amplifier output will be less than a volt, more V+ voltage won't change that.

>>1169732
>close up with the schematic

It appears to follow the schematic accurately.

>If I make another identical circuit, could I then use the output of this one as the input for the next one?

Probably but it may cause distortion by over-driving the second stage.

Again, "it's not loud enough" for what?

[Anonymous No.1169783]

>>1169770
>what do you feed the output to? a guitar amp? headphones?
To the microphone input of a pc.

>The amplifier output will be less than a volt, more V+ voltage won't change that.
Ok. I have tried the same setup with a 3V and a 9V battery, the 9V made the sound a bit stronger, and that's why I I thought more potential would give me a stronger sound

>Probably but it may cause distortion by over-driving the second stage.
Can I try feeding my output to a guitar amp I have? It has a preamp of its own, only I don't have enough cables to hook it up to both yet. Something tells me the guitar preamp will cause less distortion than my own single transistor preamp.

>Again, "it's not loud enough" for what?
A software timegrapher: https://tg.ciovil.li/
I need a strong enough sound so that the program can pick up the ticking of my watch. It can easily pickup the ticking of of this big ass clock I have, but regular watches are still kind quiet.

[Anonymous No.1169786]

>>1169783

Try removing the resistor circled in white.
(10K from battery to the input)

[Anonymous No.1169807]

>>1169786
Actually, It was like that at first, no resistor, but if there is no resistor I get absolute silence from the circuit. Ill try that out again in a moment.

[Anonymous No.1169819]

>>1169807
>if there is no resistor I get absolute silence from the circuit

It may be used to supply bias power to the pickup.

[Anonymous No.1169835]

>>1169819
>supply bias power

as in if the pickup is actually an electret microphone

I have to go out for a while

if the resistor is needed, try your idea of another stage on the same board

[Anonymous No.1169870]

>>1169835
Fuck, it's Sunday, and tomorrow and the day after most stores will be closed for holidays. No second stage until Wednesday.

Nevertheless, Do you have any idea what's the 100k for if that 10k is for biasing? Also biasing?

[Anonymous No.1170507]

Hey /diy. I need to get a 26" W x approx 12-14" D tool box for work. Apprentice machinist and we're building (with help from welding shop) our own wheeled carts. I can't seem to pull the trigger on a toolbox. I don't want to break the bank so no snap on or Kennedy. But I don't want it to be too cheap either. Eventually we will also be doing field work at various plants (steam, hydroelectric, etc) and our told are transferred to the field by field support crews and I've heard they aren't always careful with that so I expect it to get dinged up some. I don't care about that I just want something decent, American made, and inexpensive. Looking for a top section now and will add a bottom later. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.1170576]

what material is water absorbing and slowly and steadily releasing it again?
I was thinking about a solid, cutable foam-mat or something.

Is there something like that?

(i want to build pic related)

[monotreeme No.1170582]

DOOR KNOBS

is there a specific name for the type of doorknob that can be locked, but still opens from the "inward" side (the side without a keyhole) even when locked?

[Anonymous No.1170858]

>>1170582
bed and bath

[Anonymous No.1170862]

>>1170576
disposable diaper

[Anonymous No.1170864]

So electronic store is closing nearby and has some soldering irons on next to nothing. What will the wattage dictate as far as what I can do?

20 W 30 W confirmed, might have others. Wanted to get one for a while.

[Anonymous No.1170893]

>>1160122
what should I do with a round brass ball about 1 and 1/4 inches in diameter?

[Anonymous No.1170902]

>>1170893
oh sry is actually about an inch and a half

[Anonymous No.1170911]

>>1170902
insert in sack and tell everyone you have brass balls

[Anonymous No.1170993]

How do I remove these from my concrete wall?

[Anonymous No.1170996]

>>1170993
you don't. you grind off the end and mortar over it.

[Anonymous No.1170998]

Installing pullup bar
Orange = thicc wooden beam
Blue = attic floor
Grey = 55cm long metal strip to raise pullup bar so its high enough above the ground

QTTDTOT: What type of steel do I use for the grey strips? How thick? Can it be hot rolled or does it need to be cold steel?

Will be using L shaped support between floor and metal strip if needed. The wall mount of the bar itself is 4mm thick, if it helps.

[Anonymous No.1171002]

>>1170993

If is still won't come out at least you can cut it off below the surface to allow covering with filler.

[Anonymous No.1171019]

MODS
I came across an old cap of the sticky.
Current sticky pic looks bad as a thumbnail.

[Anonymous No.1171020]

>>1171019
original

[Anonymous No.1171032]

>>1170998
Let me put it this way: is 8mm enough?

[Anonymous No.1171036]

what kind of engine should i be looking for if i want to build a mini bike? I don't want to use one of those chinese all in one plastic boxes.
I have a scooter which has no use but i have no clue how to convert a scooter into a mini bike.
I've been thinking about a chainsaw as they come with clutch. Any suggestions.

[Anonymous No.1171106]

Trying to make a knife, will steel with a carbon content of ~0.26% hold an edge? I will not be forging it, already have a piece of material and I was only going to cut, grind and sand.

[Anonymous No.1171157]

Any ideas for making handles on a shotgun pouch I got at a garage sale? Pic related, I got another one thats missing handles as well.

The metal pieces there are about 3mm thick.

[Anonymous No.1171221]

>>1171032
softer steel like hot rolled will have a crappy surface finish but if you use enough fasteners it will probably work fine.

Why not use square tubing?

[Anonymous No.1171233]

>>1171157
cut a 'squared oval' out of leather
slip ends of oval through slots in metal bits
fold oval into elongalted 'U' |____|
stitch edges together

(may need to form another |____| of heavy gauge wire and place between leather halves before stitching)

[Anonymous No.1171288]

>>1171233
I think I know what you mean. (Pretend that this is square, flat leather), I would basically place some heavier wire inbetween the fold and then stich it up? Do I just pinch the original squares that hold the handle so that the handle doesn't come off? I was thinking of putting this in there, but it might be too thicc (in the next image)

[Anonymous No.1171291]

>>1171288
It's about 6mm thick and a little over a foot long. It's gonna be tricky to bend without a torch, but I think I know where I can get one.

[Anonymous No.1171317]

>>1171288
>Do I just pinch the original squares that hold the handle so that the handle doesn't come off?

If you fold the |___| wire so it fits in the gap when the leather if folded over it, the leather can't slip off.

It doesn't have to be wire. A flat durable plastic thick enough to keep the leather formed in the desired shape would work.
Cut it smaller enough to be able to stitch around it.
Pic is a "Very Rough" approximation of what I was talking about.
You could go all out and do a 'lace stitch' on the edges so it tucked the edges in and smoothed the form for comfort and beauty.
Look at leather handled luggage and get ideas from that.

[Anonymous No.1171371]

>>1171317
All right, I got a pretty good idea of what im going to do, i'll just have to buy some leather somewhere, my best bet is hobby lobby unless I find another store in town.

Lol, i'm just now noticing that the picture you posted looked reeeaally familiar, that's a neat shop, it really helped me vizualize this.

[Anonymous No.1171463]

>>1160122
>>1170864
Does protocol dictate we tag OP? New and variable traditions in QTDDTOT

[Anonymous No.1171546]

Anyone had anything substantial from yahoo auctions shipped from another country? Advice on how you went about it please?

Not weeb /jp/ stuff but I'm talking something like engine size.

[Anonymous No.1171721]

I just interviewed for an entry-level stone restoration service job, went pretty well. Does anyone here have experience with that kind of job? It looks like I just have to be knowledgeable about how chemicals interact with different stone surfaces, and how to operate a round floor polisher. I might not get it, but I've been trying to get into a trade. Stone restoration seems like they'd make a good amount of money.

[Anonymous No.1171772]

>>1170864

30w is underpowered. You can solder stuff with that but it's irritating. Anything over 60w will cover you for most applications. If the unit it has temperature adjustment that's even better.

[Anonymous No.1171784]

>>1171221
Thanks. Space away from the wooden beam is limited as well (not shown in drawing), so wanted to keep it as flat as possible. Also bit easier to install.

[Anonymous No.1171803]

>>1171546
is it an engine

[Anonymous No.1171894]

Hi, I am looking to install some more speakers in my 30 year old Volvo, and a new stereo to replace the old cassette deck my father put in before I was born. I don't know if the stereo will work well with what I have.

Speaker specs are pic related, and I've been looking at stereos with amps capable of 20 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels. The car has 4in speakers in the front doors, and what I can find tells me they are rated to 20 watts rms. Will the mix of these two types of speakers work together?

I am mostly concerned about damaging the front speakers. I assume I won't be able to use the larger speakers fully based on this scenario, but I imagine it would still roughly be like doubling what I have?

If the large ones don't work I have the option of going the other way, someone gave me a pair of mini speakers that could go in the rear doors. Not sure of the wattage, but they are similar to this http://www.ebay.com/itm/302301992265?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Anonymous No.1171898]

>>1171894
you want to make sure the radio can drive the impedance of the speakers

[Anonymous No.1171903]

>>1171898

I think all the speaker varieties I have to use are 4 ohm. They can work together based on that?

[Anonymous No.1171907]

>>1171894
So these news speakers are being installed somewhere and the front existing speakers are staying?
As long as the impedence matches like the other guy said, you're good. And when you blow the old ass front speakers just put in some better ones.
The amp is more important than the speakers imo. A good amp can make shit speakers sound decent, whereas a shit amp will make good speakers self destruct.

[Anonymous No.1171911]

>>1171907
>>1171898

Yeah I'm being at least a bit frugal. The new ones were given to me by a neighbor preparing to move so that got the project started. I'll check again so I know they're at the same level.

Thanks!

[Anonymous No.1171912]

>>1171036
I put a 8hp Robin Subaru and torque converter on mine when I was a teen. You can get a regular ole clutch and chain sprocket for just about any horizontal small engine.

[Anonymous No.1172408]

So i bought a bunch of old gas cylinders from a crackhead for really cheap.
the last time they've been tested was in the 70's or 80's and they're caked with mud,
the stickers either flaked off or are so faded they're illegible.
they're all full and after a while of testing and looking up the valve number i've determined that i've got:

1 hydrogen
3 oxygen
1 nitrogen
1 helium

what kind of fun shit can i do with these?
i've already planned on showing the kiddos the exploding hydrogen and oxygen bubbles.

oh and is it okay if i fill up a balloon directly from the valve of the hydrogen tank?
i'm scared there might be static built up on the balloon and the spark is going to ignite a flame
that's going to go back into the tank and i'm going to look like a hiroshima victim.
am i overreacting or should i buy a hose and clamp it on the end? or is that dangerous too?

[Anonymous No.1172620]

What is the most foodsafe method or repairing this fork?

[Anonymous No.1172968]

>>1172620
a band of copper around the top may link it back together

[Anonymous No.1172974]

>>1172408
call a fucking emergency response hazmat team.

[Anonymous No.1172981]

>>1172620
Cyanoacrylate (super glue) is food safe, hit it up.

[Anonymous No.1172984]

>>1160122
Garbage disposal is clogged up, what product should I use to clean it out and get all that rotten crap out of there after i pull it off?

[Anonymous No.1172990]

>>1172984
>Garbage disposal is clogged up
>>1172984
>after i pull it off?

Why would you pull it off to clear a clog?

Unclog it and feed it a lemon.

[Anonymous No.1172992]

>>1172990
i should've clarified, the pipes connected to the disposal arep robably clogged as well. it will not drain.

[Anonymous No.1173003]

>>1172992
leave disposal attached to sink
remove trap
clear clogged pipe
replace trap
add lemon wedges while running disposal

[Anonymous No.1173005]

>>1173003
Yes!! Trap!! That's what I mean!!

[Anonymous No.1173020]

Would I be mad to hook a space heater up to one of these thermostats for heating a room?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261875817406

[Anonymous No.1173025]

>>1173020
>hook a space heater up to one of these
>Maximum load power: 2000W

As long as you trust the thermostat to be able to switch the load of the heater it should be OK.

I have a window a/c unit connected to a similar device.

[Anonymous No.1173027]

>>1173025
Yeah, the heater is under 2000W, just not sure how far I would trust it.
I suppose worst case scenario it gets hotter than I want and I have to manually turn off the heater like I do now.
Or the actual plug explodes and sets the place on fire, that would be undesirable.

[Anonymous No.1173059]

>>1160122
is too much rosin flux bad for soldering joints, i dont care if it looks ugly but is it bad for the joints electrically and mechanically.

[Anonymous No.1173089]

>>1173025

tell me more about said device, my window unit is either warm or freezing cold

[Anonymous No.1173271]

I have a frensel lense from an old 53" projector TV. I want to make a "Solar Beam" death ray with it, but first I need to put it in a frame to both protect it and to make sure it's nice and flat. I don't have access to a table saw. How would I go about making a frame?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xExXjXm0YV0

[Anonymous No.1173275]

>>1173271

[Anonymous No.1173300]

>>1173089
>tell me more about said device

It works for cooling and/or heating.
I have natural gas heat so I only use it in the room I have a window unit it.
The sensor is the thing sticking up that looks like an antenna.
I was concerned about not being able to locate the sensor away from the thermostat but it's worked fine for several years now.
I got mine at a local hardware store.

[Anonymous No.1173302]

>>1173300
I just read the description. The model number and the pic is correct but there is no remote or wireless function on this device.
It is programmable for several times per day and each day of the week but it plugs into the wall and the a/c unit (or heater) plugs in to the outlet on the front.
It has a battery or two inside to keep the program in memory in the event of power failure.

[Anonymous No.1173303]

How to fix this? the fabric underneath looks decent so i think il remove all the fake leather, but what are some easy ways to do this? i already tied a clothes iron to get it off but it didnt seem to work much. Or is it a lost cause and i should go to ikea?

[Anonymous No.1173320]

Is there any good beginning to competent book about making masks?

[Anonymous No.1173323]

>>1173320
masks? you may be better off at /cgl/

[Anonymous No.1173328]

My garden has a lot of roots in it from a nearby tree. Do I need to dig a trench around it and put in root shields? Is there any tricks or anything to make digging easier like getting the ground went or something?

[Anonymous No.1173373]

>>1172974
lol why? i don't want the feds to know my shit

[Anonymous No.1173383]

>>1173303
I had a chair in similar condition, and I just re-covered the chair with fabric over the fake leather. Besides, the white fabric backing isn't going to be very durable and will show stains like crazy. Just get some other fabric and re-cover it.

[Anonymous No.1173399]

>>1173383
did you actually sew a new cover or just sorta half assedly put a blanket over the entire thing?

[Anonymous No.1173406]

>>1173399
Sewed a slipcover to go over the back, kind of lace-up covers around the arms, and a panel of fabric that velcros to the bottom of the seat. Pic related.

For the chair in >>1173303 I'd do a slip cover over the back, then staple/velcro fabric over the seat. Arms should come apart so that you can staple fabric to the bottom of them.

[Anonymous No.1173407]

>>1173399
Sewed a slipcover to go over the back, kind of lace-up covers around the arms, and a panel of fabric that velcros to the bottom of the seat. Pic related.

For the chair in >>1173303 I'd do a slip cover over the back, then staple/velcro fabric over the seat. Arms should come apart so that you can staple fabric to the bottom of them.

[Anonymous No.1173419]

>>1173407
i guess i could do that, what fabric do you recommend? although it isnt too aesthetically pleasing. maybe i should just go with my plan and remove the fake leather, maybe die it a darker color even?

[Anonymous No.1173425]

>>1173419
Fabric wise, I'd just suggest something durable so that it's more likely to hold up over time and that will be comfortable to touch and sit on. For example, the chair pictured in >>1173407 is covered in denim.

[Anonymous No.1173427]

>>1173425
get it from the discount section?

[Anonymous No.1173428]

>>1173427
The chair? Nope, just have had it a while. The fabric? Picked up a couple of yards on eBay pretty cheaply, less than $10 shipped IIRC.

[Anonymous No.1174463]

How should I repaint this desk black? Im not sure what wood or what kind of paint is already on it.

I can post another pic if needed, thanks

[Anonymous No.1174465]

>>1174463
Screw it here's another pic, this thread should be dead soon anyways

[Anonymous No.1174481]

>>1174463

Thats particle board, so sand that down to smooth it out...prime it, scuff it, and finish paint it...

[Anonymous No.1174493]

>>1160155
Clean rust then paint with something meant to be in a dishwasher. Google dishwasher rack repair paint for examples.

[Anonymous No.1174497]

>>1174481
Thanks man, I realize that should be common sense, that process was my first assumption but since the wood was odd I didn't know if there would be a different process.

[Anonymous No.1174499]

>>1174481
Why scuff it after its primed though?

[Anonymous No.1174513]

Would a 30x60x1.75" butcher block make a good PC desk top? I've been looking at some of those minimalist looking tables from Ikea and apparently a clamping monitor arm will rip through the particle board so I'm looking to make something more solid, using aluminum extrusions for a frame and screwing a butcher block on top.

[Anonymous No.1174629]

>>1174513
>0x60x1.75" butcher block
>aluminum extrusions for a frame

Sounds solid to me.

[Anonymous No.1174631]

>>1174513
>30x60x1.75" butcher block
>aluminum extrusions for a frame

Sounds solid to me.

[Anonymous No.1174716]

>>1174631
The butcher block wouldn't come apart at the planks right? My main worry is that the torsional force will rip it apart or something

[Anonymous No.1174720]

>>1174716
use a big piece of sheet metal on the bottom side of the monitor arm clamp

[Anonymous No.1174749]

>>1174720
I'm trying to avoid that sort of ugly makeshift support. Otherwise I think even Ikea particleboard might hold up if I put something to spread out the weight.

[Anonymous No.1174755]

>>1174749

It would...what the fuck do you want here...get one or the other, as both will work ffs...

Oooo, I have to clamp my multiculti monitor stand here, and I need it to stand up to my jizz loads with the force of a thousand suns while watching bbc ass fuck my dog...

You probably stand there in the store wondering if 2 ply tp will be strong enough to wipe your ass, and weather you might get away somewhere to do a conclusive 'test run' before putting down that $6.

Pick one. Pick the other. It doesn't matter as it WILL work...

[Anonymous No.1174773]

>>1174755
>what the fuck do you want here
I want a top that can support the arms WITHOUT ugly ass supports on the top and bottom and the Ikeas clearly don't work because there are horror stories of single 24" monitors tearing the Ikea desk tops apart when moved slightly and I'm going to mount a 34" display and 24" displays on each side.

[Anonymous No.1174776]

Would a weedeater guard made from aluminium be effective at not throwing grass in my face? I can't buy a bigger guard apparently so making one is my only option.

[Anonymous No.1174811]

anyone know how to prevent or lessen red marks on your face after wearing a half-face respirator? I tried lining some facial tissue in between the mask and my face but it didnt seems to help

[Anonymous No.1174871]

I'm trying to get into /diy/k/ and I'm having trouble choosing a welder. What kind of welder makes "beads", and what kind can be used for tack welding or for doing what is done in https://youtu.be/x7lfGGv62is at 0:32 (welding the bar onto the frame from the backside through holes)?
I don't want to buy an arc/stick welder and find out I needed a Mig/Tig or Flux welder, or vice versa. I'm a poorfaggot so "buy a stick and a MiG" isn T an optiin, so if that's what I'd need to do to copy https://youtu.be/WfvJtjbY9TM then I guess I'm SOL.

[Anonymous No.1174876]

I have a couple of holes in my walls, large enough for a couple of breeze blocks to go into.

Any resources on proper use of cement and how best to prepare? I've never done building work before.

[Anonymous No.1174879]

Is pic related a good paint to paint etched plates, do lapel pins, keychains...?

I'm in college and I want to try making some money selling etched stuff.

[Anonymous No.1174936]

Bought a Karcher K2 (it's 110bar of power) pressure washer to clean my stone patio, bricks and my motorcycle

Do I need a respirator or will a surgical mask sufice? I read online about cleaning with pressure washers and something about the built up dirt coming out is bad for your lungs so I got paranoid.

Will I be fine without one or will I need a respirator?

[Anonymous No.1174957]

>>1174871
those look like spot welds (at 0:32)

cheapest spot welder at harbor freight is $164

little tacks can be done at the cheapest price with a flux core wire feed welder

cheapest wire feeder at harbor freight is ~$100

[Anonymous No.1174993]

>>1162822
Used windshield wiper motor and transmission setup from a junk yard, scrap steel for a frame, scrap wood for a base, some time to plan, and a dildo. I'm assuming you've already got the dildo, so $75-100. If you don't have the rubber cock, you're gonna need to add about another seventy bucks.

[Anonymous No.1174995]

>>1163010
Keywords: expensive.
But not real expensive, just something a normal person would pay for something. Something you think is expensive, because you're not a good person with a job.

[Anonymous No.1175004]

>>1174936
Never personally had a problem, but if you ask osha I'm sure they'd say at least an n95.

The water is going to hold down most of the shit and you're spraying away usually.

[Anonymous No.1175053]

Any place I can get a bunch of small keycaps machined out of aluminum in bulk? Local places are expensive as fuck and I don't speak enough chinese to do the needful via taobao etc.

[Anonymous No.1175128]

Friend gave me this super cheap (harbor freight?) multimeter new in the box.

I'm trying to test these batteries but the display always reads 1 or -1 no matter what I do.

The only time I see anything besides 1,-1 is for a split second if I flick the device off and on.

Everything about the multimeter seems to be working but I can't get it to display any real values.

Is it just faulty or am I making a noob mistake somewhere?

thanks for your time.

[Anonymous No.1175498]

>>1175128
You are a moron.

[Anonymous No.1175499]

>>1175128
what is the battery voltage?
what is that in mV?
I'm not saying you're retarded, but you're retarded.

[Anonymous No.1175524]

>>1175499
He's totally fucking retarded, look at what the meter is set to.

[Anonymous No.1175527]

>>1175524
The setting is fine, sperg. The positive lead is plugged into the wrong slot.

[Anonymous No.1175749]

>>1175128
It looks like you're testing used 18650s
perhaps they're just dead
try the meter on a known good battery

>>1175499
>what is the battery voltage?
It may be 4.2v if the cell is fully charged

>>1175524
>look at what the meter is set to.
It's set to 20vdc - the correct setting for a single lipo cell

>>1175527
>The positive lead is plugged into the wrong slot.
The positive (red) lead is plugged into the Volts-Ohms-mA jack - what's the correct one?

[Anonymous No.1175844]

I'm hardwiring a powerstrip on my workbench.

Is it OK to have a short section of 14-2 Romex exposed? Or is there another cabling I need if it isnt running through conduit?

I also need to run some to my shop light through metal cabinets. Would I need to worry at all about if if it wont see any wear and tear?

[Anonymous No.1175872]

>>1175844
as long as there is no risk of mechanical damage there shouldn't be a problem.
sharp edges from entry/exit points on metal should be protected with some kind of rubber grommet

[Anonymous No.1176061]

>>1175844
Doesn't seem like a bad idea to get some flexible conduit and cover it up. I mean, why the fuck not?

[Anonymous No.1176402]

>>1175844
Home Depot

[Anonymous No.1176625]

I want to make a wall display that consists of two acrylic sheets bolted together, sandwiching my 4+ leaf clover collection between them (pic is just a small sample). What's a good adhesive to hold the clovers in place? Would something as simple as a glue stick work well?

[Anonymous No.1176651]

The guy who did service to my AC told me that my roof flexed when him and his pal were up on it.
Only by walking on it they could feel it moving.

How worried should i be?

[Anonymous No.1176662]

Hardware store cuck here trying to learn so I can help folks out better. Had a dude today drilling out a lock(lock in something, not padlock), and he already broke three bits(last was a nice cobalt one). What's the best type to use? I assumed cobalt for it's hardness, but it's also more brittle, and a lock would be interrupted cutting with a bunch of gaps and loose cuttings. How should it be drilled, fast or slow, oil or no?

[Anonymous No.1176671]

I need to make a fucking desk for myself.
1) Where do I get cheap lumber/metal
2) How do I cheaply (but GOODLY) make said desk
3) Why am I so fucking stupid

[Anonymous No.1176673]

>>1176662
cuntstain tongue-glide

[Anonymous No.1176708]

>>1176662
the metal being drilled on most locks is brass
any HSS bit will drill it without problems
oil isn't necessary
drill slowly - too much pressure causes the bit to advance too quickly when entering any area with less material causing the bit to grab and break

[Anonymous No.1176709]

>>1176651
could be just poor material choice for decking
ask someone who knows about roofs to take a look

[Anonymous No.1176730]

Hey guys, I did some electrolysis today on some iron. I tried google but couldnt find much so what metals is electrolysis safe to use on? I believe its only mild steel, iron and cast iron. Is there any other steel or metal i missed? Its for rust removal btw.

[Anonymous No.1176759]

>>1176625
For a similar application, I used binder clips. Remove the arms one you get it on.

[Anonymous No.1176761]

>>1176671
>1) Where do I get cheap lumber/metal
Garbage piles. Around here we have large garbage pick up 2-3 times a year. People throw out all sorts of usable lumber. Also look for scrap pile from construction sites.

You'll be pulling nails and planing/sanding to get rid of splinters. And getting a good, clean, large piece for the top might be a challenge. Look for a counter top.

>2) How do I cheaply (but GOODLY) make said desk
You could do it for basically just the cost of the screws.

>3) Why am I so fucking stupid
Dropped on your head one to many times as a child.

[Anonymous No.1176765]

>>1162796
Google image search. Just try combos of "interior design" and "SOME MATERIALS YOU LIKE" and "SOME COLOURS YOU LIKE"

[Anonymous No.1176766]

>>1176765
was meant for
>>1161040

[Anonymous No.1176767]

>>1163634
You can test the faraday cage in your microwave. Put a cell phone in it. Close the door. DO NOT TURN THE MICROWAVE ON. Call your cell. If your cell rings, buy a new microwave.

[Anonymous No.1176770]

I want some local channels without cable or anything else. How do I hook this up for over the air signals to a modern tv. I know nothing about electronics.

[Anonymous No.1176803]

Diy halp.

My stupid ass decided to try fixing a busted Privacy Fence, it's a simple 3.5ft tall 8ft long panels mounded to I suppose roughly 3x3inch 3ft 1/2ft tall anchor posts.

my problem is the fucking screws. I swear to god I never knew there were that many goddamn screws for a simple task.

I ended up with some fancy ass ceramic alloy coated "Trim" screws that are driven via a star bit of some sort.

Does the head of the screw matter at all? Like it's width?

They're pick related. Brand and style

What's worse is the cross-bar 1x3x8ft are like a quarter smaller then an inch in thickness. So I've 3/4th an inch of real estate to rely on holding to a 3inch thick post.

I used to install Satellite TV for a living, apparently simply screwing wood together is no longer within my realm of comfort.

[Anonymous No.1176805]

>>1163926
>communicating door between the house and the garage but I'd like to add a one.
Don't

[Anonymous No.1176807]

>>1164300
>should I round the flap corners?
If you don't, wear will do it for you

[Anonymous No.1176809]

>>1165044
the miter band saw will be useful in many more situations, seems to me. The only advantage of vertical bandsaw is you'll have wider throat, but if you're only working with metal that won't be an issue.

[Anonymous No.1176811]

>>1165830
>Incorporate.
That's about 1k a year where I live. You have to make a good deal of $$$ to justify that.

[Anonymous No.1176812]

>>1168953
Input - is the ground from the pickup.

Input + is going to be the tip from the pickup.

[Anonymous No.1176815]

>>1169113
>Any tips for cutting straight with a circular saw
Practice. I had a bunch of unless boards to cut up for kindling. I drew straight lines on them and practised for over an hour to get straight cuts, even though in this case it didn't matter.

Or you could set up a fence.

[Anonymous No.1176817]

>>1169113
>circular saws always end up crooked for me
It's important to start your cut in the right orientation. Look at your blade - it should just outside your line. Then look at the 0 mark on your saw's base plate. It should also be pointing at just outside your line.

Next make sure you can move your body to keep yourself aligned with the cut. When you shift your body in relationship to the tool, you will tend to pull the tool in a different direction.

Now you can pull the trigger.

[Anonymous No.1176822]

>>1176770
There is no more analog over the air TV in North America nor Europe. You will need a decoder for digital OTA TV.

[Anonymous No.1176828]

>>1176803
Those re TORX screws. I'm guessing you are in the USA and don't have God Tier Robertson screws.

Anyway, you want coated screws so they don't rust as fast.

I suspect you might want some self-sealing roofing screws. They have a pitch grommet attached so that water won't get behind the vinyl. However the screws you posed would work too. Just put a dab of silicon to seal around it.

[Anonymous No.1176829]

>>1170582
I think those are lockable interior door knobs.

[Anonymous No.1176833]

>>1173407
An impressive amount of effort went into making something so ugly.

[Anonymous No.1176834]

>>1174499
Because Anon likes doing extra steps.

[Anonymous No.1176836]

>>1174716
Few things in wood working are as solid as a butcher block.

There's a reason they cost an arm and a leg.

[Anonymous No.1176837]

>>1160122
Look up electrical cable braiding. it's a thing. my outdoor extension cords used to get that way. now I can take a 100' heavy duty ext cord and collapse it down to about 12 feet and cleanly unravel as needed.

[Anonymous No.1176839]

>>1175128
>Harbor Freight
>Cat II
Be afraid

[Anonymous No.1176858]

Found a slice of wood while walking today from a recently felled tree. Is it in ok condition for a live edge accent table top?

[Anonymous No.1176860]

>>1176858
Any idea if the black is wet or disease? Other side.

[Anonymous No.1176862]

>>1176860
I'm no arborist, but think it was black locust.

[Anonymous No.1176872]

>>1176858
hey! kinda like the slice I kept when I had a large tree cut down... mine has been sitting in a dry basement since last fall. I wonder if the bark will just fall off if I use it for a table top or shelf?

[Anonymous No.1176878]

>>1176872
Nice! Wonder if we could use the kitchen oven for a kiln ...

[Anonymous No.1176882]

>>1176828

It's a really simple Privacy fence, it's the picket sort with like 2 inch spacing between planks.

My only nearby Hardware store is Lowes, I was going to drive them through the new support cross-beams for my pickets into the anchor posts using the old holes driven by the older nails I pulled out.

[Anonymous No.1176884]

>>1176882

I should add I'm eating weather-resistant treated lumber.

Would I still need to silicone the screws before driving them? The nails that I pulled had no sort of water blocking sealant of any sort.

[Anonymous No.1176897]

>>1160155

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/

[Anonymous No.1176898]

>>1176878
Maybe.

A kiln is low heat, venting to get the moisture out and heat exchanger to recover the heat in the exiting air.

Your oven probably can't go low enough to dry wood while not baking it. It also doesn't have a vent to extract the moist air.

[Anonymous No.1176901]

>>1176858
The problem with taking a raw piece of wood and using it is that it will check (aka crack) as it dries. The best way to prevent this is to seal the end grains so that they don't dry to fast. But if this is just a slice, you're basically sealing the moisture in.

The other possibility is to work with the cracks. Raw wood and resin is all the rage these days. Pic related.

I don't know that type of wood, so I can't tell you if that black discolouration is water stain, sap stain or rot. Take a belt sander to it and see how deep it goes. Wear a respirator. If it doesn't go deep, it could be water stain (mostly harmless) or fungus (in which case you want to get it all off before drying.

Remember, air drying a piece of wood will take at least a year, unless you live in the desert.

[Anonymous No.1176903]

>>1176872
>I wonder if the bark will just fall off if I use it for a table top or shelf?
Cut in the fall/winter, the bark will fall off. Cut in the spring/summer, you'll need to remove it. IIRC, but it could be the other way around.

[Anonymous No.1176904]

>>1176884
I don't really know what you mean by privacy fence. Around here, people have cedar hedges when they don't want to see their neighbour.

Anyway, I thought you had vinyl covered wood for some reason.

For treated wood, yeah just use coated screws. No need for sealant.

[Anonymous No.1176908]

>>1176822
Ah I misunderstood how it worked. Thanks man

[Anonymous No.1176912]

>>1176901
>>1176903
mine warped a little bit the first week after it was cut. but later it flattened out. its been in a dry basement (with a dehumidifier running) all winter. so far no checking and the bark is still attached. I guess if it falls off I could just glue it back on(?) haven't decided if I want to do a table or shelf or if I even want to keep the bark on or not. either way my style would be 'rustic' so a crack would just add to the rustic look in my case.

[Anonymous No.1176918]

>>1176912
You probably want the bark off. Varnished bark is fugly.

[Anonymous No.1176960]

>>1176759
I already use these for my current cardboard press but I want to be able to hang this acrylic piece on the wall. I don't trust friction to hold these all in place.

[Anonymous No.1176966]

>>1176901
Thanks man, I'll see how deep it goes.

I'm down for something conservative - the bark gives me too many flashbacks from the 70s.

[Anonymous No.1176978]

>>1176966
Little denatured alcohol on it - looks like it's skin deep.

Prolly going to run it to my parents - he has a planter and this isn't level in the least.

[Anonymous No.1176986]

>>1176978
Little more juicy.

[Anonymous No.1176994]

>>1176966
>too many flashbacks from the 70s.
;o)

[Anonymous No.1177001]

>>1176822
All he is showing is an antenna.
How do you know he wants to connect it to an analog tv?
That antenna connected to a digital tv will receive ota digital channels.

[Anonymous No.1177135]

glass repair: any ideas on how to secure the feet in place while the epoxy cures?

[Anonymous No.1177161]

>>1177135
Clean break? Super glue, not epoxy. Hold until it stays put.

[Anonymous No.1177283]

>>1177135
5 minute epoxy and hold it in place?

[Anonymous No.1177285]

>>1176960
Get thicker acrylic so it won't flex. And get clips small enough that the hinge is barely bigger then the thickness of the acrylic parts.

Worked fine for me, but then I was holding paper between the sheets, not dried leaves.

[Anonymous No.1177331]

>>1177285
You understand that I intend to have at least 100 clovers held vertically in a 12x18" display. The acrylic I have is 1/4" thick but I'm pretty sure pressure alone won't be able to hold all of them all in place when it is vertical.

[Anonymous No.1177420]

>>1176625
If the clovers are dry pic related should be fine.

lay the clover out in the pattern you want.
take a pic of the layout
print the photo to actual size
print a second copy
place one copy under the plastic sheet that's the back
place the second copy on the work table
put the clover back on the second copy so you're sure of which is which
spray the photo adhesive on the back of each clover one-at-a-time as you place them on the acrylic sheet with the locating print beneath it
put the top cover on and do whatever you planned to hold the sheets together

I've used this adhesive for years and it's a stable product.

I don't think I've paid $18 for it but that's the first pic I found via google.

[Anonymous No.1177421]

>>1177420
forgot the pic

[Anonymous No.1177423]

>>1177420
>>1177421
Thanks, I will try this.

[Anonymous No.1177559]

i already own a good mig welder but its a bit overkill for thin steel or if i just want to do fillerless fusion. how can i make a diy metal fusion only device? i have a few microwave transformers and 1000v 50a diode bridges and other misc components.

[Anonymous No.1177561]

i already own a good mig welder but its a bit overkill for thin steel or if i just want to do fillerless fusion. how can i make a diy metal fusion only device? i have a few microwave transformers and 1000v 50a diode bridges and other misc components. if course if i had the money i would just buy a tig machine, but i dont.

[Anonymous No.1177589]

no money, no property, no expendable income. how do i into create? building shit in real life is my #1 interest right now and on a computer doesnt cut it. how do i scratch this itch?

[Anonymous No.1177597]

>>1177161
clean break. this repair will be the second (? third?) go around for the frog. when i posted last night i'd just finished cleaning away the remnants of superglue from the previous attempt. dunno how long they held last time but the joints did eventually fail. so really not too keen on using superglue. first glass critter with snapped off legs that my parents wanted fixed was a big sea turtle. lot heavier than the frog (and much more forgiving breaks -- strapping tape won't cut it this time unfortunately). passed a quick stress afterwards, still standing and still solid a year later. epoxy is the good.

>>1177283
welp. apologies for being >that guy and lolnope'ing at everything suggested but i'd rather stick with the stuff that i already know will work as intended (and already have on hand) and that means standard 24hr cure time

anyway. thank you anons, appreciate the replies nevertheless

[Anonymous No.1177693]

Ill probably have to ask this later, but if I have 3 300 volt capacitors in series, and want to charge them up to about 50-60% of their charge, so lets assume 150 volts each, do I have to pass 450 volts from a source to charge them all to that level? Or is there an easier way? I want to put more in series but I dont want to have to have a source with like 1.5 kV

[Anonymous No.1177727]

>>1177589
Work with softer and smaller materials, like paper, cloth or paint. Not everything has happen in a shower of sparks and a cloud of saw dust.

[Anonymous No.1177851]

>>1177693
A lot of high power devices have a switch for changing between charging mode and working mode, so I'd recommend something like that to switch the caps from series to parallel when in charging mode so your required voltage is lower.

[Anonymous No.1177927]

How heavy of cabinets could you hang with these? Are these small medicine cabinet screws, or full kitchen cabinet full of plates and glassware screws?

[Anonymous No.1177943]

>>1177927
Might help if I post the picture.

[Anonymous No.1177955]

>>1177927
>How heavy of cabinets could you hang with these?
As heavy as you want.
lightweight cabinet - use one or two screws
heavy cabinet - use lots of screws

check with the mfg for the rated load per screw

[Anonymous No.1177980]

>>1160122
How do I deep scrub a carpet when I do not have access to a steam cleaner? I have 3 dogs which are in my room damn near constantly and I need a way of getting out all of their dirt, hairs, oils, and spots where they threw up when they got sick (I deep scrubbed those spots but lets be honest, its never enough).

[Anonymous No.1177991]

>>1177980
Lowe's rents stream cleaners for $30/day.

[Anonymous No.1178465]

I bought a 1$ srewdriver with 4mm bits to take apart and make a tiny screwdriver as an every day carry.

I have space for 18 bits in my final design, what bits should i make sure to include ?

The bit that were included in the set are listed below but i will prob buy new ones, what types/sizes do you advise?

Flat 4, 3, 2.5, 2, 1.5, 1.3, 1.0
Phillips 2, 1, 0, 00
Torx 15,10,7,6,5,4,3
Alan 4, 3.5, 3, 2.5, 2, 1.5
Triwing size 3
U /spanner size 2.6
round metal pin with diameter of 1mm & 2mm

[Anonymous No.1178625]

>>1176862
hold a blacklight to it, black locust glows under Uv light.