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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1132150 No.1132150 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

So I got these chink shit whetstones, the bottom one being from Walmart. Using the chink ones I can remove material but it seems to be dulling it no matter what angle I use.

How the fuck do I do this? I've tried watching videos and reading guides but I can't even reliably get burrs.

>> No.1132152


Those chink stones go with chink Apex Pro clones. I guess some people might be able to effectively hand sharpen with stones that narrow, but it would require some skill.


>> No.1132160

those stones are good for roughing only, for the main sharpening use a proper water stone

>> No.1132172

if thats really a 3000 grit stone you should be able to get your stuff decently sharp. you wont be able to shave with it or anything but it'll be better than a factory edge.

you probably just have bad technique. worry more about getting a consistent angle than any specific angle.

try coloring the bevel of your blade with a sharpie to be sure you're hitting the edge.

what exactly are you trying to sharpen? some things are easier than others especially when it comes to freehand...

>> No.1132212
File: 1.80 MB, 4160x3120, IMG_20170216_173446.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Eight dollars worth of knife. I'll try the consistent angle business, that might be a good way to learn.

>> No.1132214

Does anyone have a good image of what their bevel looks like so I can copy the angle? I think knowing what I'm looking for would help a lot.

Sorry for the double post.

>> No.1132215

> I've tried watching videos and reading guides but I can't even reliably get burrs.

Cheap steel simply doesnt take edges well, if at all.
The whole chinese steel cliche in the knife world didnt come out of nowhere.

>> No.1132217

>Eight dollars worth of knife.
> $8 knife

I think I've found your problem.

>> No.1132218

Its cheese grade steel and will never be sharp like a good blade, but its not a bad platform to learn on. If he screws up its only $8. Learn a consistent angle of about 16 degrees.

What technique are you using, OP? are you scraping away from you only, or doing a strange circular pattern?

>> No.1132225

this is simply bologne. i pretty much use 8$ knives exclusively and can't get them sharp enough to shave my arm hairs or slice through paper. the issue is that cheap steel has horrible edge retention and basically need to be honed after every use.

>> No.1132227

> and can't get them sharp

sorry, CAN get them sharp enough

>> No.1132246

arkansas oil stone

>> No.1132250

OP here, shit blade to learn on was my thought process.

I've tried sharpening in sections to see if it even works but not much luck even with that. Otherwise with that thin of a stone I've basically been running the length of the blade with some pressure very carefully.

Also am I supposed to be shaving like actual mud/clay off these fucking things? It's a huge mess and I can't tell if it's even supposed to happen.

>> No.1132271


Here's how to use them :


>> No.1132304

These stones are for a lansky system
3000 is more than fine enough for a pocket knife.

>> No.1132345

>you wont be able to shave with it or anything

I must be a wizard, I can get my knives to shave my arms using 1000 grit.

>> No.1132392

He's just dumb and repating what he hears on the internet.

I've put an arm shaving edge on a knife usibg nothing but a file.

As for OP:
Use a coarser stone to start with. 180 grit or less.
Use as low an angle as you possibly can.
Bring up a burr using the coarse stone.
Use a finer stone like 600 or 800 to sharpen.
Don't mess with ultrafibe stones for now.
If your edge isn't sharp at 180 grit it won't be sharp at 3000

>> No.1132462
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1) first put those stones for 10 minutes in water
2) keep the stones wet when sharpening
3) try to sharpen old utility knife blades for practise, these are made of not-so-bad steel
4) listen to >>1132392
5) keep the angle; doing a swipe at wrong angle can force you to repeat some of the sharpening
6) you should first get the blade with coarse stone to the shape.
7) then, sharpen one side until the edge curls,
8) sharpen the other side until the edge curls,
9) change side and sharpen till the edge is ok
10) take a finer stone and repeat from 7)

I got a similar set. Works fine, but sharpening is tedious…
Also, it's often not worth going beyond 800, as most blades don't keep sharp for long.

>> No.1132947

Get drunk and do it. Always make an edge like an animal. Also use a quality knife only. Anyone can turn a Tramontina into a razor blade but you need a blade that will hold that edge for more than slicing paper.

>> No.1132983 [DELETED] 

My Tramontina can still shave arm hair after taking down a tree.

Carbon steel can hold a good working edge for a surprisingly long time.
Yes, even the spring tempered machetes.

Don't let the super steel memefages fool you into believing something else.
Fancy steel arent the only ones that can hold an edge.

>> No.1132985

My Tramontina can still shave arm hair after taking down a tree.

Carbon steel can hold a good working edge for a surprisingly long time.
Yes, even the spring tempered machetes.

Don't let the super steel memefages fool you into believing something else.
Fancy steels arent the only ones that can hold an edge.

>> No.1132988

Ahahah you need to use a carbon steel knife. Get an opinel. It's cheap and as I always say: you write it "opinel", you read it "it cuts"

>> No.1134143

You don't need to soak a whetstone. Just wash the steel off the surface periodically with a splash of water.

>> No.1134147
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Those stones are best used in a sharpening jig like pic related. I use one myself because I lack the effort, skill, and funds to purchase quality stones and hand sharpen. You can use a phone gyroscope level to determine near-exact angles, and I get excellent results with little burr when I take my time. Very easy to then keep sharp with a honing rod. Would recommend.

>> No.1134643
File: 6 KB, 294x172, dmt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Never sharpened my knives before and I thought I should learn. After some research I decided to get this. Diamond 600 and 1200 grit. Good place to start? Looking to sharpen some pocket and kitchen knives.

>> No.1134671

you may need a rougher grit to start on if they're abused. some people STOP at 600 grit.
the cheap stones are usually 200/400 grit, or 150/300 grit, or 300/600 grit, something around there.
Also, I'm going to put this here just for all the sharpening purists

if you're chinese shit isn't actually crumbling to powder as you use it. there's a fair chance it's lower than the advertised grit, but that just means you have to be more careful.

>> No.1134716

You need to flatten your stones first. Use a sheet of some flat material (make sure it's flat with a straightedge each time) then stick some adhesive-backed sandpaper to the material and level out the stones' surfaces. Do it while the stones are dry. You should be able to tell when they're flat.

Then when you use them, make sure you wet the stones.

>> No.1135525

Don't post in this thread again. The grit is what sharpens the blade, not the stone. Washing the grit away is defeating the whole purpose

>> No.1135881

Don't post in this thread again. The grit is what sharpens the blade. Washing the steel away opens up the gaps between the grit that makes up the stone so it can cut better.

Also, it washes away the pieces of grit that have broken free of the stone, which may end up trapped between the stone and the blade, leaving a scratch. So you can get 400 grit scratches from a 600 grit stone if you don't, which then you spend 30 minutes trying to buff out on the 1200 grit stone, or wondering why the 600 grit isn't getting rid of the 400 grit scratch marks.

However, there is some debate, some people advocate using dry stones and washing them between uses to lift out the dust clogging the "pores". also, if you haven't used oil on it yet, most agree you can use water on oilstones as well, you just need to keep applying it as it dries up, wheras oil stays longer, which is why it became popular.

>> No.1135982

I just bought the exact same thing and spent a few hours with it.

Definitely get something lower grit, unless all your blades are in great shape. I'm gonna pick up a 2-300 just for general shaping

>> No.1136204

If you only occasionally need to set a bevel, remove chips, remove rust etc, you can do so with 120-220 grit sandpaper on a flat surface. Cheaper that way.

>> No.1136439

Just nonsense. Look up scienceofsharp for a bunch of SEM imagery that debunks this sort of thing. OP doesn't have a JNAT nor a coticule.

>> No.1137036

You can freehand with those, but it's not ideal.
In any case, if your edge started out very dull you may not have sharpened past the dull edge.
If you are sure you have, you may have raised a bur and broken it off or it may have rolled over pretty far, leaving another dull edge. If you flick down the edge with your finger as though it was a sharpening stone (from spine to edge direction) and feel it grip slightly on one side but not the other, you have a burr that is rolled off to a side. Move to a finer stone, don't put pressure on the blade. Let the stone do the work.
I love the work that guy does, but some things he doesn't consider to be an issue really irritate me.
He laps the stones with a 400 grit plate and doesn't seem to consider that this will put 400 grit grooves into a 16k stone.
I don't know exactly what differences it makes with swarf on a microscopic level, but I do know I get more scratchy results on my edges when I don't condition the stones with a nagura after lapping.

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