[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / ic / jp / lit / sci / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports ] [ become a patron ] [ status ]
2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


View post   

File: 112 KB, 960x500, BM-21-Pipe-OD-bevelling-1-960x500.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1069631 No.1069631 [Reply] [Original]

hey guys I suck at making manual bevels on pipe, what is a good pipe beveler? need 37.5 degrees of bevel. most pipe I do is small don't need big DIA.

>> No.1069634

>>1069631
What do you need to bevel pipe for? Genuinely curious.

>> No.1069637

I sell pipe welding coupons on the internet for a fraction of the price engineering labs sell them for. welders use them to practice welding. some of the complains ive been getting lately is that the bevels are uneven or of low quality.

>> No.1069638

>>1069631

http://www.pipetoolsdirect.co.uk/shop/Rems-Rag-Pipe-Chamfering-Tool.html

>waits for someone to shoe horn a 'HF bandsaw' mention in

>> No.1069641

>>1069638
thank you for your reply but I should have specified that the pipes are of ferrous materials (mostly carbon steel). Your suggestion pertains to plastic pipe.

>> No.1069647

>>1069641

Oh shit yeah, search portable chamferimg tool on google and you'll get electric alternatives. Not entirely sure where you'd get one.

>> No.1069667

>>1069631
get the cheapest yard sale lathe you can find that has a 3-jaw chuck, compound slide and morse taper tailstock.
then fit a pipe center in the tailstock.

>> No.1069697

>>1069667
Getting the pipe centered will take more time than chamfering with a bastard file, also there's no convenient way to hold the end in tailstock so the wibble wobble factor will be too high

>> No.1069844

>>1069697
Gotcha. Ill take your advice into consideration.

>> No.1069992
File: 48 KB, 492x449, gravel truck simulator 2016.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1069992

>>1069697
>centering a 3 jaw chuck
>end wobbling when it's held by a pipe center
get the fuck out

>> No.1070002
File: 1.38 MB, 245x118, 1345665849717.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1070002

>>1069992
>mfw i watched that movie two hours ago
Comedy gold: Empire of Dust

>> No.1070055

>>1069631
Roller jig and a large grinder?
You would need to set the angle and have a guide roller that only allows the pipe to get ground down to the inner edge.
For short pieces you might even be able to use a wood V to keep things in line.

>> No.1070409
File: 292 KB, 2272x2409, Bport straddle dolly.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1070409

>>1069631
Get an old, large lathe. I ran a welding school toolroom and beveled many that way. My machinistbro does coupons for local contractors using his manual lathe too. It's quick and easy.
Cut with bandsaw, bevel using lathe.

Typical coupons do not need support (tailstock won't work anyway, you can see why) because a suitably large chuck is more than capable.

Short, powerful turret lathes would be nice for that job and are easy to find used but you don't need the turret feature or even a tailstock.

You can buy pneumatic bevelers for small pipe but they are expensive and not as versatile as a lathe. I'd get the lathe so you can bevel anything you can hold in the chuck.

You don't require three phase supply if you run a rotary phase converter or a VFD. See the Practical Machinist forums.

You can also buy the excellent Watts pipe beveller and bevel with a plasma cutter or torch, but that can't leave a machined finish. A lathe is completely superior and will pay for itself very quickly.

Large lathes aren't hard to move without a rigger. You weld, so make a suitable rolling skid or dolly to make moving easy and prevent tipping. Even a plain pipe skid will work. Pic is milling machine on my simple outrigger setup.