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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 168 KB, 1000x667, trex-decking-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1875089 No.1875089 [Reply] [Original]

I have first generation Trex decking that is flaking and needs to get replaced. I have a decent sized deck in the back and a wraparound deck in the front and a staircase. Haven't measured it exactly, but probably 400-500 square feet total. The structure is in good shape so I just need to pull the old boards and replace them. How hard is Trex to work with? The old boards are just screwed in, no hidden clips or anything. I've done interior trim work, so I know my way around a miter saw.

>> No.1875148

>>1875089
If it's just screwed in it's not terrible hard to work with. Using the clips or plugs and shit when people hide the screws is tedious and annoying but it's not terrible. You shouldn't get splinters which is nice. Why replace it? Is it faded?

>> No.1875159

>>1875148
Most early composites haven't stood the test of time. I don't believe they were fully synthetic.

>>1875089
The hidden clips are fine. The provided screws are weak and strip easy though. You'll have to plan ahead in spots where you might not be able to fish the next board under the fasteners. The only issue to work with is the cost of the boards themselves when someone does a goofy diagonal layout that forces me to try to use every last bit of the material.

>> No.1875194

>>1875148
>Why replace it? Is it faded?
It is first generation Trex, which is now known to be problematic. It is flaking away on the surface in high traffic areas. There was actually a class action lawsuit, but I just bought this house two years ago so I can't get in on the claim since I don't have any receipts or anything.

>>1875159
Yeah, there are some diagonal and herringbone pattern sections. I might just start with the stairs and see how it goes. The flaking stuff looks pretty bad, but I really don't want to pay someone $10-15k to put in some fake wood boards for me to stand around on.

>> No.1875232

>>1875089
Can you unscrew the boards and flip em over ?

>> No.1875304

>>1875089
Why would you go with trex when a wood like ipe is like half the cost and lasts far longer?

>> No.1875340

It's easy enough just think beforehand the most aesthetically pleasing way to break up the joints. In my experience cutting trex ruins sawblades pretty fast

>> No.1875356

>>1875232
Unfortunately, no. The bottom side of the boards doesn't have the wood texture on it, so it would probably look even worse than my flaking boards.
>>1875304
I'll look into it when I'm pricing everything out. Have you worked with ipe before? I'm guessing it is super hard and wears through your tools pretty quick.
>>1875340
Yeah, I was curious about if it is a lot harder on your tools than something like cedar. I will probably just buy a small quantity of new Trex and see how it goes.

>> No.1875374

>>1875356
Ipe is dense stuff, but it is not too bad on tools, it lacks the high silica content that is really what dulls tools. Shit lasts forever, trade off is that if you do not care for the greyed weathered look you will need to give a coat of something every 1 to 5 years or so depending on exposure, local climate, and what you put down. Increase in life span is likely nil, we have a board walk of it here that is pushing 50, they have not done anything to it in all those years other than replace a few boards.

>> No.1875766
File: 151 KB, 816x410, balcony.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1875766

I was going to post this in the SQTDDTOT thread, but I'll hijack this one instead.

I was thinking of putting some composite decking over my concrete balcony. My plan was to lay some 2"x1" sleepers down and secure it to those. The deck assembly wouldn't be secured to anything, but I figure it should be fine, no tornadoes where I'm at.

The one complication is that the bottom of my screen door is only about 1" off the balcony. So I'd miter the sleeper at that end and have the first plank slope up a little. Not ideal, but I don't think it would look too bad. And it would be better than having it stick up higher than the threashold.

I figure I could do the project for $150 with only a circular saw. Any comments on my plan?

>> No.1875785

>>1875766
I'm thinking glue down or pin the deck boards together through a fascia board. You could also tapcon and cover the screw heads with a small piece of trim. Even if you only biscuit joined the deck boards, it'd be fine to float on the cement. A lot of interior floors float.

>> No.1876214

>>1875304
IPE needs to be refinished all the damn time?

>> No.1876221

>>1876214
No, it just needs a coat of oil or the like on occasion if you want it to stay red colored, otherwisse it will turn grey from UV exposure, but it remains solid and will do so for decades to come, purely aesthetic preference. A good marine varnish with UV protection will probably keep ipe red for 4 or 5 years in all but desert areas, if it is shaded it might go a decade. This is the nature of wood, UV exposure bleaches it so you need to give it some protection. Personally I enjoy yearly maintenance and spending a nice spring day scrubbing the deck and giving it a coat of linseed is a very satisfying task for me. I really miss having a deck.

Composites require no real maintenance, and there is not a great deal you can do for most of them, they are just on a slow decline from day one. Even after a couple decades of neglect you can give an ipe deck a light sanding, a coat of oil and have it looking like new by sunset, cant say the same for the composites, once they start going there are few options.

>> No.1876411

>>1875089
>T-Rex decking
I can't imagine them doing good work with their tiny arms. Can't be worse than Mexicans though.