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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1404879 No.1404879 [Reply] [Original]

Last one hit bump limit & archived, so let's go again!

~~~~~~~

In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything remote controlled - multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.

>How do I get started with racing drones?

https://oscarliang.com/mini-quad-racing-guide/

https://www.fpvknowitall.com/ultimate-fpv-shopping-list/

>What about planes?

https://www.flitetest.com/

>What about aerial photography, is DIY viable?

DJI wins here.

>I want a dirt cheap drone to fly around my yard/garden

Syma X5C

>I want a dirt cheap drone to fly inside my house

Eachine E010/Hubsan X4

>> No.1404934

>>1404879
Is there any major difference in performance between the versions of the Syma X5C?
Can I install a wifi FPV camera on the base X5C? (I have one laying around from the drone that it's replacing)

>> No.1405030

>>1404934
Afaik the only real difference between the X5 versions is those that come with a wifi camera & those that come with a dumb camera that just records with no live stream. If you already have a wifi camera that works from 1S voltage then you can just slap it on the basic X5C.

>> No.1405092

>>1405030
Can confirm. I got 3 of the pieces of shit

>> No.1405226

Any way to get Frsky sensors to give information to an OSD? I'm thinking about buying the $35 gps module for a plane but won't if it won't work with any flight controllers in the market.

>> No.1405267

Any experience/opinions on 3D printed frames?

Got a box from Hobbyking in today with some ZTW Black Widow motors, Pixfalcon FC, i6s, and the various other things needed. Already have the frame of a mavic clone printed off, will be putting it all together tomorrow after I run to the hobby shop and grab some XT60 connectors.

>> No.1405282

>>1405267
Not of frames but i do have extensive experience of 3d printing and i can say with confidence that it is very much possibly to make good frames by 3d printing.

>> No.1405284

>>1404879
OP what's up with those motor mounts? If you want 'em further out why not just have longer carbon fiber rods? I wonder how much efficiency you are loosing with those bulky and angular mounts right in the airstream.

>> No.1405310

Inexperienced here. Im building an RC tank with all the electronics done by me(using modules i bought) and have a question about the battery: im gonna use a 7.4v lipo battery to power the motors and mcu, i know like i should use some protection circuit but what? Im looking for a ready module but not sure what to search for

>> No.1405312
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1405312

>>1405092
What was so bad about them? For the money they're a great quad that flies super smooth & stable.

>>1405226
Omnibus flight controller + generic GPS + iNav.

>>1405284
They raise the motors above the level of the frame so it can fold into a much smaller shape than if they were at the same level. One of my main goals with switching to this frame from a Tarot 650 Sport was a better folding mechanism, so I like it a lot so far.

>>1405310
>i know like i should use some protection circuit

Why?

>> No.1405451

>>1405312
>Why
Overdischarge? Overcurrent? I dont know, thats why im asking. Pic related, not sure if necessary

>> No.1405462
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1405462

>>1405451
Forgot pic

>> No.1405542

>>1405451
My confusion, I thought from the way you wrote it that you were talking about protection for the motors.

A little beeper like >>1405462 is a good idea so as not to over discharge your packs, but if you're planning to have some sort of autopilot/controller (eg something more than just a RC receiver) you'll be able to monitor voltage there & send the readings via telemetry, display it onto OSD, etc.

>> No.1405565

I'm looking to get into flying RC multirotors But I hope to actually move things about rather than for Racing say.
Are there any decent peripherals that make picking up and releasing?
I've seen servos used with elastic bands for example but they seem a bit too fiddly

>> No.1405716
File: 418 KB, 1059x939, omnibus on Amazon Shopping.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1405716

>>1405312
>Omnibus flight controller + generic GPS + iNav

I'm absolutely shit at soldering small things. Is there another way to secure the pins?

>> No.1405860

>>1405716
>using pins
Solder directly like everyone else

>> No.1405863

>>1405860
>>1405716
Also use a KISS FC or a Kakute F3 or F4. Better solder pads for direct soldering.

>> No.1405872

>>1405565
What are you planning on lifting? The lift props generate is inversely proportional to their distance from the ground and unless you want propellers for days you're not going to be able to pick up more than ~5lbs.

>> No.1405876

>>1405872
But how can rockets fly in space if they don't have anything to push against?

>> No.1405925

>>1405876
Because the propulsion is pushing against the rocket, not the vacuum.

Sauce: https://www.quora.com/How-does-jet-propulsion-in-space-work

>> No.1405926

>>1405876
Third law of motion homeslice.

>> No.1405929

>>1405925
>>1405926
The gases exit to the vacuum of space, there is no pressure on the rocket itself, all of it goes into the zero pressure vacuum. The end of the rocket is hollow, the internal pressure escapes into space, the overall pressure is zero. All of physics and mathematics tells is there is no motion.

>> No.1405932
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1405932

>>1405929
>how does the thing work
>is told how the thing works by two separate anons
>>you're wrong! that can't possibly be how the thing works!

>> No.1405936 [DELETED] 

>>1405929
A stationary object has no inertial. To impart movement, you need to push against it to overcome its standing inertia. In pushing against it, you get pushed, as a result you need to dig your heels in to prevent yourself moving and the car staying still. This is why it is hard to push a stationary car.

Imagine you are standing on a skateboard with an automatic weapon. Now fire the weapon. the recoil (third law of motion) will push you back. Nothing to do with the bullets pushing back against the air, everything to do with the part of the standing inertia being split between the bullet and the shell, in the same way the standing inertia of a car pushes against you as much as you push against the car.

>The gases exit to the vacuum of space, there is no pressure on the rocket itself.
Which makes it even easier for the third law to work. If there were pressure on the rocket, the pressure difference between the inside and outside would be less, giving the rocket less thrust. There is zero pressure outside the rocket tank however, but high pressure within. In releasing the gas molecules from their stationary state within the tank, motion is pushed back into the rocket body, just like a bullet leaving a shell.

> All of physics and mathematics tells is there is no motion.
By all means, post some physics that disproves this.

>> No.1405937

>>1405929
A stationary object has no inertial. To impart movement, you need to push against it to overcome its standing inertia. This is why it is hard to push a stationary car. In pushing against it, you get pushed, as a result you need to dig your heels in to prevent yourself moving and the car staying still.

Imagine you are standing on a skateboard with an automatic weapon. Now fire the weapon. the recoil (third law of motion) will push you back. Nothing to do with the bullets pushing back against the air, everything to do with the part of the standing inertia being split between the bullet and the shell, in the same way the standing inertia of a car pushes against you as much as you push against the car.

>The gases exit to the vacuum of space, there is no pressure on the rocket itself.
Which makes it even easier for the third law to work. If there were pressure on the rocket, the pressure difference between the inside and outside would be less, giving the rocket less thrust. There is zero pressure outside the rocket tank however, but high pressure within. In releasing the gas molecules from their stationary state within the tank, motion is pushed back into the rocket body, just like a bullet leaving a shell.

> All of physics and mathematics tells is there is no motion.
By all means, post some physics that disproves this.

>> No.1405942

>>1405937
I think you are just trying to bait me

>> No.1405944

>>1405937
>motion is pushed back into the rocket body,

You know what you are talking about, but goddamn.

>> No.1405945

>>1405942
Think what you wish.

>>1405944
Yeah, I know, but I couldn't brain a better way of wording it, it's getting late here, and "force is imparted" sounded a little too high altitude for the guy I was replying to.

>> No.1406046
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1406046

Sounds stupid but i have my reasons. I want to male a teathered drone that can hover in place indefinitely.

Was thinking a used phantom?

Peoblem tho the battery has more than +/- and i have no idea wtf i need to do to trick it into thinking it has a battery.

Any advice?

>> No.1406047
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1406047

>>1405312
Gental breeze takes them away. Flew a preditor once. Night and day difference.

>> No.1406063

I've seen 5'' quad builds with a large cap soldered in in the beginning.
What is it for and where exactly is it supposed to be soldered if I choose to put one in?
Just started a chameleon build with a hand me down set of motors, planning to get the original oomph set later when I have the money.

>> No.1406065

>>1406063
Also what kind of cap exactly should I look for?

>> No.1406084
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1406084

>>1406063
>>1406065
Capacitance across battery +/- helps to smooth voltage spikes/noise introduced by ESCs.

A few years ago most ESCs would come with an electrolytic cap across their power input, but with everybody wanting smaller components these got removed in favour of smaller ceramic SMD capacitors. Problem is that these small SMD caps frequently aren't enough, especially now that we're running 40A+ ESCs at crazy speeds & with active braking.

Not all builds will need extra capacitance, but some people will just add it to all of their builds just in case.

A 1000uF 105° capacitor with suitable voltage rating (25V for 4S, 35V for 6S) soldered across the battery input terminals is the usual approach, especially with 4in1 ESCs. If you're running individual ESCs you can put a 330uF on each ESC across the power input terminals.

>> No.1406085

>>1405716
>.1" pitch
>small things
whats soldering big things? like copper pipe?
don't use a blowlamp for soldering circuit boards, use a soldering iron.
i used to teach classes of 17y/o and it took maximum maybe 20minutes to pick up at this kind of size. do you have a medical condition or something? eyesight problem? what iron are you using seriously?

>> No.1406138

>>1406084
great idea, do you have scope trace of before/after?
what problems were you having that prompted you to do this?

>> No.1406170

>>1406085
Soldering big things is like soldering wires together where if I mess up, I won't ruin a $40 component with my shitty soldering iron tip that solder sticks to even if its fluxed and wet. Sorry that I'm poor, don't want to mess up, and made you waste your time reading about me wanting a different option. Will you ever forgive me?

>> No.1406180

>>1406138
No scope traces because the behaviour only really manifests when the motors/ESCs are under actual load (eg flying with props, not on the bench without props with scope probes attached).

I had one quad that was pretty much unflyable before adding a 1000uF cap, it was incredibly jittery on any fast orientation change - it would hover fine, but if you did a flip/roll the PID loop would have a fit for half a second afterward.

>> No.1406199

>>1406085
>>1405716
> be >>1405716
> "hi I'm bad at soldering, what can I do instead"
> some dickhead tells me "mAN dUde, dO u kNo hOW Bad u R?"

You probably need a new iron tip. A pitted one will work infinitely worse than a clean, tinned one. You can also get practice boards on eBay for under $5 that are great practice and you won't screw over your budget.

>> No.1406349

>>1405929
You ever fired a gun? There's recoil, because you're pushing on a bullet like really fucken hard so you get pushed back as well.

>> No.1406517

>>1406349
And the bullet is pushing on the air when it exits the gun, plus the hot gas is pushing the bullet and it needs to accelerate it against the still air, that is why it has recoil. In vacuum the gun doesn't even fire because there is no air for the powder to burn.

>> No.1406522

>>1406199
My soldering life changed when I started using those steel shaving brushes for cleaning grills.
Takes all the shmutz off the tip by dipping the hot iron in the brush. I think Hakko stations use similar steel shavings for the same reason.

>> No.1406540

>>1406517
now you're just baiting me aren't you?

>> No.1406548

>>1406540
He was from the very beginning.

>> No.1406622
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1406622

I flew at night for the first time in a lighted parking lot.

My gopro didnt get good footage, it was too dark for it.

Flying was not a problem, except my camera switched to black and white mode.

>> No.1406629

My trusty old Weller WS40 died this week so I'm in the market for a soldering station. I narrowed it down to two, the Hakko FX888D and the Ersa RDS 80.
I know Hakko is used by many of you guys on the board but a few decades ago Ersa was a top notch brand in soldering. Both are in the same price range, both are more or less in the same power and temp range.
Which one would you recommend, and if someone knows, how much did Ersa went to china, since many older known brands were bought by the chinese the last couple decades.

>> No.1406631

>>1406622
If you liked night flying, look into the Runcam Owl (version 1!), it gives you color image in the same conditions.

>> No.1406633

>>1406631

Yea it was nice flying at night. I might have to make a dedicated night flyer.

>> No.1406738

>>1406629
Anyone?

>> No.1406778

>>1406738
Hakko is a little cheaper on amazon. Get that.

>> No.1406801

>>1406738
This is a slow board, these threads take weeks to hit bump limit.

I have the Hakko & am very pleased with it, but I've never heard of Ersa, so I can't provide any comparison - other than that Ersa didn't even come up when I was searching for options.

>> No.1406946

>>1406631
>runcam owl
I have one on my mini-Skywalker:
Great camera with lots of light sensitivity, but it only realy works during night when the moon shines or there is a city nearby.
Works decent during daytime as well, except the dynamic contrast isn't exactly good during daytime.

When flying with goggles in the evening, you will be surprised how dark it got around you after landing.
I was flying untill about 23:00 today when my battery (2S 3400mAh Li-Ion)ran out, friend of mine couldn't see the plane, but the camera still showed a great picture with somehow better dynamic contrast.

>> No.1407006
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1407006

Alright, I just got an X5C from amazon, and out of the box the transmitter won't sync with the drone.
Any solutions?
The drone blinks quickly when I turn it on, then blinks slowly. I then do the syncing procedure on the controller and nothing happens. The light on the controller turns solid, but the lights on the quad still blink as if nothing happened.

>> No.1407173

>>1407006
You may only be able to bind it while it's blinking fast.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-az4vVUjQY

>> No.1407246

>>1407173
I'm pretty sure I already tried it, but I'll try it again and see what happens.
>all those comments about controllers that won't sync
I'm surprised there isn't a fix out there.

>> No.1407766

>>1407246
Have you tried putting the controller into bind mode?

>> No.1407810

>>1405312
Anyone flies iNav?
How is it compared to APM?
Does micro APM exist anymore?

I bought DJI Naza at some point, and lost all contact with this miniquad stuff.

>> No.1407873

>>1407810
I use Betaflight and a DJI Naza quad build is under way.
What little I know about iNav is it is a more advanced APM firmware you can put on any racing FC plus you can connect a GPS+compass and a few other accessories easily by UART and it has a good waypoint planner system.
I think there is a gimbal on HK for gopro session you can build a 6''-7'' quad around. Sounds tempting to me but I already got the DJI Naza for practically free.

>> No.1407925

>>1407810
>>1407873

APM is the hardware, Ardupilot is the firmware. The APM hardware is obsolete, but Ardupilot is still in active development & runs on newer/current hardware such as the Pixhawk (which is what >>1405312 has) & the Pixhawk 2.

iNav is a fork of cleanflight/betaflight & is very rudimentary compared to Ardupilot, however it's designed to run on race quad flight controllers which makes it a cheaper option for projects that don't need all of the power/features of a Pixhawk running Ardupilot.

>> No.1407997

>>1407810

Betaflight 3.4 has GPS rescue now.

We dont fly Inav because the PIDS and filters are no good for quads.

But look into adding a GPS to a Miniquad and using the new GPS Rescue feature.

Its basically Return to Home.

>> No.1408000

Here is an example of the Betaflight 3.4 GPS Rescue feature IE: Return to Home.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upnniG8CstI

You will need a GPS unit like the Ublox M8N which is 11 grams or so

>> No.1408002
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1408002

Ublox M8N you can get on banggood for about $14

It connects to 5v and a UART then you just setup a few things in betaflight.

>> No.1408223

>recently got into flying quadcopters
>really want to talk about it with 4chan, but I couldn't think of what board would be best to discuss it
>begrudgingly browse Reddit just to discuss drones
>finally find this thread
Don't mean to blogpost, but I'm super happy to have found out there's a place to discuss RC vehicles on 4chan

>> No.1408261

>>1408223
Welcome, but be advised, discussions usually advance every other day, sometimes once a week.

>> No.1408423

>>1408261
Better than the constant shilling of YouTube garbage, top brands and all that gay shit

>> No.1408431
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1408431

I have 10 acres of mixed woods and pasture on the side of a mountain, it's hard to walk and see directly and can be dangerous since there's a shitload of rocks and 3+ foot drop offs hidden by weeds and shit. I've been wanting to get a drone for inspecting my property because of that but I didn't want to just buy a random drone. Is there any off the shelf drones from amazon that aren't $500+ and also aren't absolute trash? I was hoping for something under $200 that would give me about 1000 foot range, have at least 720p resolution, and preferably has the ability to land itself if it loses connection.

>> No.1408439

I'm looking for a good quality 20x20mm stackable vtx. Everything I find looks shady and probably wouldn't even be able to handle 200mw let alone the 600+ some of them promise. I would also like something that can be controlled from the osd. I'd also like to avoid mcx connectors since I can't even bend a pigtail in the tiny 120mm frame I'm using which is why i'm staying away from AKK despite them having everything I want. I'm fine with u.fl and soldered antennas.

>> No.1408561

>>1408431
The DJI Spark would do what you want.

>> No.1408607

My fpv setup doest work... its either the transmitter or the goggles. I know something is being emited but i cant get an image. :/

Help.

>> No.1408645

>>1408607

You need to be on the right channel and your cam needs to be working also.

>> No.1408761

>>1407766
There is no "Bind mode" to put the controller in to. You bind the controller each time you turn it on.

>> No.1408766
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1408766

Ok, RCG, since (and I already have experience flying a drone), is there a better camera drone (under $150-200) than the Ryze Tello?
The main features I'm looking for are Video quality and stability (aka won't get pushed into the next county by a slight breeze).

>> No.1408769

>>1408766
What I meant to say was
>since my first outdoor drone shit the bed and has unobtanium spare parts and I'm returning my Syma X5C to amazon

>> No.1408965
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1408965

heys guys is there a 'ceiling effect' like the ground effect but on the roof?

>> No.1409017

>>1408766
The tello is neat, but basically only usable inside or when there's like zero wind. Any breeze at all is going to push it around. Also the camera is good by $99 drone standards, but it's not even close to being real camera drone quality. The dji spark is pretty much the cheapest drone you can get that can take quality video. It's GPS stabilized and has a 1080p gimbal camera. Even then, the gimbal is only 2-axis, so any yaw movement tends to look bad if you move too fast.

>> No.1409027

Bought a bat 100, without reciever.
Added a Frsky XM+, and get zero channel input in betaflight. Anyone got a clue? Regards

>> No.1409053

>>1409027
Not fammiliar with this model and FrSky, but does it by any chance use PPM and did you by any chance forget to activate it?

>> No.1409073

>>1409053
Should support sbus, FC is a Teeny1s f3 FC, I'm bound to my qx 7.
I've seen others recommending updating the firmware on the FC, but I haven't found boot pins or button on the one I have

>> No.1409075

>>1409073
I´m not much into quadcopters and use EzUHF or DSM2/DSMX for my planes, so forgive me if I don´t know much about flight controllers and S-BUS.

>> No.1409202

>>1408965
yes, it's just reversed

>> No.1409234

>>1408431
Look into the DJI products.

If not Ive seen quite alot of good shit about the Bugs drones, the Bugs 2c would fit your bill perfectly, comes with a controller, all parts are replaceable and its rather cheap considering so if you lose its not a major loss.

>> No.1409339

I'm relatively new to drone stuff, but I recently flew a few practice drones, a flamewheel f450, and a 3DR solo and now I want to build a DJI Flamewheel f450. I've been looking around trying to get a feel for what people tend to choose when it comes to components and I'm pretty sure I'm going to purchase the ARF kit. The question is, what's my best bet for a flight controller, transmitter/reciever combo, and battery and is the kit worth it (as opposed to just buying all the components separately? At this point, I want to fly it around very casually and don't particularly care about adding a bunch of special features to it (like gps) although I probably will in the far future.

>> No.1409341

>>1409202
wrong

>> No.1409472
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1409472

I'm considering doing an antenna mod on my Taranis QX7. I have heard that cutting the coax cable that connects the PCB to the antenna to a specific wavelength/fraction of a wavelength for 2.4ghz will increase range. Does anyone have any experience with this?

I want to add this little UFL/SMA adapter https://www.banggood.com/IPEX-to-SMARP-SMA-Female-Adapter-Extend-Cable-Connetor-10cm-p-1193797.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

and this antenna
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/2-4ghz-7db-antenna-for-frsky-modules-and-compatible-radios-modules.html

I have seen youtube videos where the controller has a UFL/IPEX joint already soldered in and some without. My controller is relatively new, so I'm hoping it has the joint (I travel a shit ton for work and don't get to check for a few weeks).

>> No.1409475
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1409475

>>1408002
Any reason why that GPS won't work in iNav? Some of the product reviews say it does.

>> No.1409713

>>1409475

I dont mean to say GPS dont work with iNav, it does but its only for planes.


Betaflight has better Pids and filters than iNav does. It flys a lot better than iNav because iNav is meant for planes and not quads.

Betaflight is adding GPS rescue feature that iNav has like the return to home feature of many GPS drones.

Betaflight 3.4 will be the best Flight Software with a GPS return to home feature.

It will be the best because it will fly the best and it will do what iNav can and should do for our quads.

iNav was never meant to be used for Miniquads.

>> No.1409872

>>1409713
>iNav was never meant to be used for Miniquads.

https://github.com/iNavFlight/inav/wiki

>INAV is a fork of cleanflight with a heavy focus upon GPS features for both airplanes & multirotor models.

I appreciate that the iNav developers aren't necessarily focusing their efforts on merging all of the upstream filter improvements from betaflight to make iNav fly miniquads as well as betaflight does, but saying that iNav was 'never meant to be used for miniquads' is simply wrong.

>> No.1410013

>>1409472
Just to clarify, you want to cut the already onboard antennas cable to a specific length?
Listen, concerning doing this mod, I've thought about it also and the main problem is that you can only mate up to 500 times the rp-sma/sma connector. I have no idea how many times you wish to remove and mate your antenna but I have a 5db antenna that is double the size from stock antenna and doesn't fit my turnigy cheap case for radio hence I have to remove it every time I want to put my radio in a case. Luckily I had an external xjt module and I don't have to remove the antenna every time now but simply unplug the module with the antenna.
If you do solder an ipex connector on the board (i'm unsure if there is any present already, I think that the coax is wired directly to the board) you could change the ipex/sma cable when the sma part fails easily. I'm unsure where does the sma connector fail (antenna side or the cable with connector side). Bardwell did a video on x9+ with that problem and you can easily read upon the problem further, it's your pick in the end and I myself am unclear what is the best option.

>> No.1410072

>>1410013
Yeah, my plan was to replace the antenna with a 7db patch. I fly very infrequently because of traveling for work, so 500 times would last me 2+ years. I just can't decide if it's worth the gamble of messing up. I've considered getting an OrangeRX 433mhz system, but I sure love Frsky telemetry...

>> No.1410116

I plugged my flight controller into my PC and it was working fine for about 10 seconds, then suddenly shut off. Did it short circuit or something? It worked fine the other times I tried plugging it in.

>> No.1410236

>>1410116
It probably died, either internal fault or your USB has power issues that fried the processor unit.
Buy a new FC and test your USB for power, it should be no more than 5.10V, that is the absolute high limit. Also 4.90V is the absolute low limit. Lower voltage is worse than higher voltage because it induces bigger current draw.

>> No.1410258

>>1405716
>I'm absolutely shit at soldering
git gud

>>1405860
>Solder directly like everyone else
>Not messing with you drone every other week

>> No.1410270

>>1410258
>git commit
I figured that was what was going to be the answer. A practice kit, flux pen, and solder are arriving today. I just hoped there was an alternative.

>> No.1410490
File: 189 KB, 1220x915, IMG_20180613_194314.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1410490

>>1410072
Then just go with FrSky R9?

>> No.1410716

>>1408965
If you fly verry close to some kind of ceiling, there is indeed something simmilar happening.
Problem is that this is horribly unstable and often ends with a crash.

In the open sky there is nothing like that, air just geta thinner at high altitude.

>> No.1410717

>>1408431
You may look at the mavic refurbs. Usually these had the gimball overload issue which is nothing desu.

>> No.1410718

>>1409472
I did the mod my X9D and bought this kit:
https://www.banggood.com/RF-Connector-70-RP-SMA-5dBi-Antenna-Adapter-For-Frsky-X9D-PLUS-Transmitter-p-1191881.html?rmmds=myorder&stayold=1&cur_warehouse=CN

Careful to solder properly because you can fry the TX.

I did the m9 gimball mod btw

>> No.1410754

>>1410072
check out ultimate LRS, it's mod for orangerx TX/RX with range up to 122km or even more.
Frsky R9 had reported problems in EU, not sure if it's fixed. That's ofcourse if you're looking for UHF systems.
You can get frsky telemetry on modified orangerx (ultimate LRS) with a stm32f1 or teensy. Haven't tested it yet but I'm waiting for my orangerx Tx to arrive to test ultimate LRS.

I'd personally go for a 5db antenna anon >>1410718
recommended since your 7db antenna requires you to open it to fix it (checking banggood comments for the same antenna, doubt hk is selling another variant) and you have to point it more toward your aircraft. Either way they are a few bucks both, so it's your call, you can take both and test what you like more.

>> No.1411114

>>1410754
Don't forget that RC telemetry quickly becomes a moot point for most long range systems, as the telemetry transmission from the model to your radio will only be in the region of 25mW regardless of whether you're using 1000mW+ from your radio to the model.

>> No.1411139

>>1411114
mind explaining or simply sharing a link where to read more upon the subject?

>> No.1411167

>>1411139

Telemetry generally fails a helluva lot quicker than control will fail wrt long range RC systems, eg telemetry will fail at 2km even if you still have control out to 20km.

This is because the transmitter built into the receiver on your model (quad/plane/whatever) which sends the telemetry data from your model back to the radio in your hands, is normally around 25mW. So when you look at something like the FrSky R9 or the TBS Crossfire systems that advertise 1000mW (or similar) you need to remember that this is only for the transmission of control signals from the radio in your hands to the model - the transmission of telemetry from the model back to your radio will be a lot less powerful.

>> No.1411190

Watching some FPV drone stuff on youtube I think I'm hooked, it all looks pretty straightforward to piece this shit together and it's gotten so cheap wow, but I am wondering if I can use my 3d printer to print bodies and props and things? Seems like a PETG or carbon fibre/ABS composite would make for strong parts and I could print in hollow parts on the struts and body to run wires through. has anyone tried this?

>> No.1411259

When i run inav configurator on my tower pc it works, but on my laptop it just says "failed to open serial port". they have the same driver.. i dont understand.

>> No.1411343

>>1411190
Body? Maybe. Props? Nope. Printing bodies is common, but not really worth it when you can get cf frames for cheap. No 3d print will be as strong as cf.

>> No.1411428

>>1411190
Printed drones all have terrible vibrations. Carbon is the best material for the job. A 3D printer is still super useful to print canopies, TPU soft mounts, camera holders, antenna holders, etc.

>> No.1411793

Do you need a (drone pilot) license in the USA if your drone is under 250 grams? I just was reading that you need a license, it sounds like it applies to anyone who wants to fly a drone regardless of how small your drone is, but I just wanted to verify here.

>> No.1411795

>>1411190
I'd rather get a cnc and cut my carbon fiber sheets which you can buy of banggood/hobbyking, whatever is cheaper.
For arms I'd go with carbon fiber rods or aluminium rods, for other parts that hold the arms you can use 3d printed parts or make molds for injection molding, but in the end it will take a lot of time, money and effort to produce your own frame if you have no equipment.
3d printer is useful for everything holder related. I had a problem where my f330 frame didn't have mounting holes for omnibusf4 so designing a mounting plate was a must. I'm currently making my 3d printed fpv goggles from ev800 with modded in dvr, diversity and headtracker.

>> No.1411957

>>1409341
>>1410716
Would it get 'sucked' to the ceiling (and subsequently crash)?
Or what do you think would happen?

>> No.1412038

>>1411793
you register as a pilot, it's not a license (though this may be changing soon). You do not need to register if it is less than 250g (0.55lbs).

https://www.faa.gov/uas/faqs/

>> No.1412177

>>1411957
Pretty much. If you ever launched those toy rotor blade thingies indoors you'll notice they tend to stuck on the ceiling for a while. If you do this with a real drone it's a disaster.

>> No.1412342

>>1411793
You only have to register the drone itself if it weighs more than 250 grams.

But lets be honest here, theres no way in hell the FAA is gonna get every single person who bought a drone off Amazon to register it. I truly wouldnt worry about registering, no one is going to ask you about your drone registration, cops probably dont even know theyre supposed to be registered.

>> No.1412353
File: 1.00 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20180614_135055.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1412353

Hi /diy/

My quad-copter project is nearing completion. Here are it's design goals
1- Flying weight not to exceed 250 grams
2- Should be somewhat fast and agile
3- Have as long an endurance as possible

My question to /diy/: How would you go about improving endurance? My thoughts were to motor it for 250 grams, build it as light as possible, then fill in the remaining weight with battery. Currently, the weight not including the battery is about 120 grams, and the battery itself is about 120 grams. I am using 1306 3300kv motors, and the batteries are 3S around 1400-1500mAh.

It has not flown yet, so I do not know what kind of flight times I am getting. I am wondering if I may actually get better flight times using lighter (lower capacity) batteries and/or smaller or larger motors.

>> No.1412364

>>1412353
Youll get longer flight times if you use 2s batteries with a larger mah capacity. Just wont be as punchy, though to be fair a youd have to fuck something up to build a quad with brushless motors/less than 250 grams that doesnt exceed 60-80mph.

>> No.1412367

>>1412364
Interesting. What size motor would you use with 2s batteries on a 250 gram quad? My current 1306/3300kv are spec'd to run on 2s-4s

>> No.1412369

>>1412353
With your current setup you should be able to calculate what battery weight will maximise the endurance.
Or look it up if you're too lazy to /diy/.

>> No.1412381

>>1412367
2s is for motors from around 3000kv to 6000kv.

Less than 3000kv or so the motors wont get enough power to lift the quad. More than 6000kv or so the motors will get too much power and burn out.

4s and up is usually used on 22xx 2000-3000kv motors for 5 inch racers, from what Ive gathered. I personally only own micro quads so Im not very experienced.

Biggest thing I can tell you is a 3s 550mah battery gets me 3-4 minutes of flight time on my Lizard95, which uses 1104 6000kv motors. A 2s 850mah battery weighs within a few grams of the 3s but gets 7-8 minutes of flight time. Like I said the punch just isnt as good, though the Lizard95 can go over 100mph on 3s so for controls sake that isnt a bad thing.

>> No.1412411
File: 1.07 MB, 2560x1244, Resized_20180624_142149_4063.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1412411

Finished up adding my FPV system to the versa wing. I have flown it a few times without the camera/vtx on and it is such a sweet flyer. I'll be taking it out to fly with the camera on in a few weeks.

Build:
>Flitetest blunt nose versa wing DTFB
>SJCAM SJ6 Legend (fpv function seems pretty low latency)
>1200kv motor with 9x4.7sf prop
>Partom 1.2ghz "800mw" vtx & low pass filter
>FRSKY X6R
>3S 3000mah battery
>exactly 1kg

There are about 35" (~89cm) between the receiver and vtx. I'm hoping with this setup I don't get locked up. My goal is about 1km range, which is supposedly possible with similar setups.

I'll probably add an omnibus in per a conversation someone had above.

>> No.1412835
File: 534 KB, 1200x800, DSC05844.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1412835

Finally ready to maiden, but probably won't get a chance to do so until the weekend :( First time configuring an oldschool OSD (eg not a built-in Betaflight OSD) & wow is it a pain O_o

>> No.1413221

>>1412835
What flight controller? Mine, which is the 3" I am building here >>1412353
is using a CC3D, which is F1 based and running OpenPilot. I am probably going to keep the build the way it is and just start on a 4 inch build after, probably going to use a FrSky FC with built-in receiver, not sure yet

>> No.1413400

>>1413221
That's an original Pixhawk, running the latest Arducopter.

OpenPilot is an obsolete/abandoned project iirc, you should be using LibrePilot or dRonin with a CC3D.

The CC3D is also obsolete (betaflight et al no longer support F1 targets), so while it still works just fine on LibrePilot/dRonin/old betaflight builds you should definitely consider a more current F4 FC for any future builds.

>> No.1414287

>>1412411
Will a failsafe actually engage if you lose control due to video transmitter lockout?

>> No.1414748

>>1414287
Failsafe will activate if the RC receiver looses the control signal for any reason.

>> No.1415259

How do I stop my drone from trying to auto-level in Betaflight? I understand that if I'm not on Horizon mode or Airmode that Rate Mode will be on by default, but no matter what the motors keep responding to the angle of the drone

>> No.1415318

>>1415259
Shows us a screenshot of your modes tab?

>> No.1415319

>>1415259
>>1415318
And have you actually tried flying it yet, or are you just experimenting on the bench? Because the motors will still respond to changes in angle in rate mode when you move the quad on the bench.

>> No.1415738
File: 55 KB, 2292x1040, drone.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1415738

>>1415318
>>1415319
This is all I have set up.
>And have you actually tried flying it yet, or are you just experimenting on the bench?
Yeah, I tried it out and it still tries to auto-level

>> No.1415965

>>1415738
That makes absolutely no sense then O_o

Have you tried reflashing the board, potentially with a different version? There might be a bug in the particular build you're using.

>> No.1416433

>>1415965
When researching battery connectors, I came across this quote:

>Setting aside the technical reasons, another advantage to getting into the XT family of connectors is unlike the other designs, this one is an open standard and doesn't require a licensing fee for a manufacturer to use it (unlike Deans, Castle, etc) - so the XT series is most likely to grow their market footprint.

Can anyone confirm if EC3 requires a licensing fee?
Can the pins be removed from an XT60 connector?

>> No.1416465

>>1415965
>>1416433
did not mean to quote anyone

>> No.1416501

Just traded an old FX 6300/Sapphire HD7950 gaming PC plus mouse, keyboard, 32 inch monitor, Logitech Z623 speaker set, and some VMODA headphones for;

3 almost identical Martian II 250 fully built quads, 2 Inductrix whoops, 6 4s, 8 1s, Spektrum DX8 tx, Fatshark Focal v2 goggles with spare battery, a nice 2-6s charger, a backpack, a hard case for the DX8, 30 some spare props, and 2 tupperware containers full of any spare or additional part you could possibly imagine.

Howd I do?

Any recommendations are additions, helpful advise? Ive been flying a Lizard95 and a Snapper6 for the past few weeks, cant say Im amazing but I can keep them off the ground and go through gates and shit.

>> No.1416773

>>1416433
The pins are not removable in any of the XT family. Not sure why you'd want to remove them though? They take crazy amounts of heat without deforming when soldering (as long as you buy legit TGY/Amass ones & mate a male/female pair together to spread the heat).

>> No.1416790

>>1416501
>martian ii 250
Pig. New monopiece base board designs like the armattan chameleon 210 or diatone tyrant 215 are 50-100g less with identical builds.
Good thing frames are cheap so you can easily and cheaply build a new one. Check the flight controllers, if you have F1 boards (basic naze32), get at least F3 or F4 boards and replace as soon as you can. Old F1 boards are slow and mushy, new betaflight builds don’t support them.

>> No.1416795

>>1416790
>Pig. New monopiece base board designs like the armattan chameleon 210 or diatone tyrant 215 are 50-100g less with identical builds.

Wat. The Martian II 250 is ~130g, the Chameleon is ~128g. I agree that there are lighter 5" frames than the Martian, but something like the Chameleon certainly isn't it.

Also, monopiece frames are always going to be inherently less stiff, less strong & more expensive/involved to replace after a broken arm.

>if you have F1 boards (basic naze32), get at least F3 or F4 boards and replace as soon as you can

F1 boards still fly just fine. I wouldn't buy one for a new build, ofc, but I also wouldn't push somebody to replace a bunch of them 'as soon as you can'. Especially for a new pilot the difference between running 8k/8k with dynamic filters on a F4 board vs 2k/2k on a F1 board is non-existant.

>> No.1416832

>>1416790
I had read that the Martian II is a pretty good frame for the price. Not sure why but the guy that built them used a different PCB and left the one that comes on the frame in there, so I gotta mess with that.

All 3 are running F3 boards, Aomway TX001 VTXs, and Runcam Swift 2.

2 of them have DYS Fire 2206 2300KV, one has EMAX RS2205 2300kv.

>> No.1416839
File: 1.13 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20180617_094941.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1416839

>>1416773
Well for me, the fact that it is an open standard trumps everything else anyway. If it is the only battery connector that is open, it is what I will use.

As for removing the pins, there is several advantages to being able to do so, other than just ease of soldering (I solder everyday at work so that is not my reason). I think the main thing is I just like things to be serviceable.

But, if I find out EC3 is an open standard, then I may switch.

>> No.1416840

>>1416832
The PDB that comes with the frame is a structural part of the frame so cannot be left out, even if you decide to use a different PDB.

>> No.1416845

>>1416840
Oh, I guess I didnt realize that, looked like it was sandwiched in between 2 other plates.

>> No.1416859

>>1416795
>monopiece frames are always going to be inherently less stiff, less strong

This is technically false. The only reason your statement has any merit whatsoever is because the way quad frames are currently designed, mono frames use thinner arms than non-mono, and thicker body areas. Basically quad frame manufacturers are too lazy to use CF in the way it shines; being able to shape it however the fuck you want. instead, they just lazily mill everything out of readily available flat CF plates.

The proper way to design this, is a monobody that is thicker where it needs to be and thinner where it doesnt. By braking up the frame into removable arms, you are giving up all the strength and thickness you could have had using a proper monobody.

>> No.1416862

>>1416859
*strength and stiffness

>> No.1417008
File: 2.49 MB, 480x270, Flowride v2 slow clip 4.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1417008

First chance to fly in 3 weeks today, realised with 60fps footage you can mess around with playback at 50% speed & still get smooth looking clips.

>>1416845
Unless the person you bought it from assembled it wrong, the red PDB should sit atop a thin insulating plate that in turns sits atop the arms. If you removed the red PDB, the only thing holding the arms together from the top would be that insulating plate which has no strength at all.

>>1416839
Honestly one of the biggest advantages of the XT family is that everybody uses it. If you adopt anything else, either your choice of batteries is going to be incredibly limited or you are going to have to cut the connectors off of every brand new battery you buy to fit your own (& voiding any semblance of warranty you might've had). You also won't be able to share/lend equipment with anybody else you fly with, as they will all fly XT.

And desu as long as you buy legit XT connectors (Amass/TGY) they're actually really nice to work with.

>>1416859
My claim had nothing to do with thickness & everything to do with the layup of the carbon fibre. The vast majority of carbon fibre used in frame manufacture uses a 0/90 layup (presumably because it's cheapest), which means that a mono frame that cuts the body & arms from the same sheet has to compromise strength compared to a frame that uses separate body/arm pieces. Separate body/arm pieces can be arranged so that every piece is milled in the 'correct' orientation wrt the layup of the carbon stock. A monopiece frame has no choice but to compromise, no matter what orientation it is milled out of the carbon stock, because the arms & body are inherently at a 45 degree angle to each other.

>> No.1417020
File: 1.10 MB, 2560x1440, 1530487496223236877325.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1417020

>>1417008
Here's how all 3 are assembled.

Arms > carbon plate > pdb > insulator > stack.

>> No.1417025

>>1417020
That's an.... interesting approach. It's supposed to be;

PDB
Insulator
Arms
Bottom plate

But it looks like you have;

Insulator
PDB
Bottom plate
Arms

As you're not using the PDB it doesn't really matter that the insulator is on top of the PDB. However with the arms on the bottom it means you don't have them 'sandwiched' & probably loose some strength/rigidity.

>> No.1417031

>>1417025
I suppose it would be simple enough to just swap the bottom plate and the arms if it would actually matter.

>> No.1417117

>>1417008
>The vast majority of carbon fibre used in frame manufacture uses a 0/90 layup
if they're not using 0/90 alternated with +/-45 they're fucking retarded. I made CF helicopter parts for a living and nearly nothing used only 0/90. Alternating 0/90 with +/-45 adds practically nothing to the cost. If what you said is true, and they are using 0/90 for every layer, then they are fucking stupid

a *non-retardedly layed up* mono is inherently stiffer than a non-mono.
I really find what you said hard to believe, do you happen to have any source? Again, there is literally no reason they wouldn't alternate layers, none

>> No.1417183

>>1417117
>>1417008
after reading up on the subject, I guess it is common to have quadcopter frames have every layer be 0/90. I am disappointed in this fact. I guess I will say one downside to using +/-45 is it generally has lower yields, though they could just use the smaller non-contiguous pieces as their own layer and still get maximum yield. I guess this adds a little to labor.

>> No.1417186

Someone give me the rundown on the expected range of a typical quad and Fatsharks?

Running some Spektrum Focal V2s with a Spironet Omni and a 8db patch antenna. Im getting around 200 yards if the quad is somewhere in front of me, I guess I was hoping for 300. Behind me I lose video after maybe 75 yards.

All this with a 600mw VTX.

Is this the range I can expect or can an antenna upgrade on the Fatsharks improve it?

>> No.1417254

>>1417183
Common only in the cheapshit chink knockoff brands. The big brands like armattan, shendrones, diatone etc always use 0-90/+-45 layers, they even have a specific layering order with different thickness CF.
The price difference is $20-30 which is nothing considering the massive difference in strength.
Mono is lighter and has more space, plus having the PDB a structural part of a frame is retarded. The thin copper leads will break from just the vibration. It is wise to use a non-structural PDB in those designs, adding more weight and taking valuable space.

>> No.1417255

>>1417186
Patch is directional, you can expect bigger range in the direction the patch is facing. Don’t look down either :)

>> No.1417277

>>1417254
>Common only in the cheapshit chink knockoff brands. The big brands like armattan, shendrones, diatone etc always use 0-90/+-45 layers, they even have a specific layering order with different thickness CF.

Not sure where you're getting this information from. Taking Armattan as an example, community discussion says that the Chameleon started out as 0/90 & then switched in ~June last year to 45/45. I've not aware of many/any manufacturers, even expensive ones, using 0-90/+-45.

And Diatone? Lel, I know they make some decent frames now, but traditionally they have been one of the most shameless cheapshit cloners.

>> No.1417285

>>1417186
Also the power of the vtx means less than the quality of the individual antenna. A bad antenna on a 600mW can have less range than a good antenna on a 25mW vtx. Also the input power has less to do with the actual output power, a shitty 600mW vtx outputs less than a good 200mW.
Use TBS or IRC vtx and you can even set the vtx power, and TBS, Aomway or Lumenier ax ii antenna

>> No.1417345

>>1417186
You should be getting better range than that even on 25mW. Have you double checked that both VTX & goggles are definitely on the same frequency & that all of your antennas are matching RHCP/LHCP?

>> No.1417488

>>1417277
Actually quite a few mfgs do use 0/90 w +/-45. at least on prefers +/-45 only, for extra strength on the 45 deg arms, which is reasonable; the middle is already thicker than it needs to be on monobodies, so I think this is a good way to go as well

some mfgs even use uni, which is by far the best way to go. ideally they would layup specifically for their frame but i dont expect that to happen. maybe ill start producing specialty plates...

>> No.1417558
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1417558

Does anybody know what kind of torque I will need on a 1:8 scale brushless buggy for a steering servo. I am just looking for a rough estimate.

>> No.1417658

>>1417255
>Dont look down
Thats actually some of the best advice Ive gotten so far for FPV... It never occurred to me that the extra weight from the goggles is probably making me want to look down.
>>1417285
Well, the quad is running an AOMWAY 60mm 4 leaf clover antenna with one of those plastic shields over the clover. Attached to an AOMWAY VTX001, the 600mw is definitely better than the 200mw, exactly how much I couldnt say but even my father asked me why the video looked better all of a sudden.
>>1417345
The Focal V2s just have a forward/back rocker on the top that runs it through 10 or so options. From there Ive just been going through those options one at a time, and if I dont get video I switch the VTX channel and run through the goggle channels again until I get video.

>> No.1417668
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1417668

>>1417658
>The Focal V2s just have a forward/back rocker on the top that runs it through 10 or so options.

Google tells me that the Focal V2 comes with the FSV2445 receiver in the module bay, which uses dip switches to select between 4 different bands. Each band then has 8 channels that you cycle through with the rocker. It sounds like you have your goggles set to one band & your VTX on another band whose channels don't quite match up.

Eg if your goggles are set to the FatShark/IRC band & you're VTX is set to Raceband, you will be able to get 'close enough' to get video (eg you could have your goggles on 5820 & your VTX on 5806), but because it doesn't match perfectly the performance/range will be very poor.

Pop the cover off the module bay to see what band the dip switches are set to, then make sure the VTX is set to the same band.

>> No.1417734

>>1417668
So the DIP switches on the receiver appear to be set to FS/IRC, so band 1.

So do I need to set all my VTXs to band 1 and then figure out which channel on the VTX and Fatsharks are the best, or do I need to switch the Fatsharks to Band 2/3/4 accordingly?

>> No.1417764

I'm in the process of building my first quadcopter right now. Getting all the hardware soldered and working was easy, but setting everything up through Betaflight is the most frustrating thing ever. It seems like I'm just constantly running into issues

>> No.1417783

>>1417668
>>1417734
Nevermind man I figured it out, thanks.

The visual for the DIP switches on top of the Fatshark receiver was kinda wacky, turns out the goggles are in Raceband which according to google is C. Set the AOMWAY VTX to Band C, channel 3, goggles pick up the signal on the 3rd channel. Havent had a chance to test it due to wind but the math adds up so I have high hopes.

>> No.1417835 [DELETED] 

>>1417783
Additional followup.

Turns out Aomway has a habit of renaming their bands for no reason, so standard channel C isnt the same as Aomway C.

Turns out AOMWAY C is BOSCAM A, so I set the Focal v2 to BOSCAM A and should now have all my quads and Fatsharks set to 7645. Went through the manuals of my 2 Inductrix models and their VTX settings seem to confirm this.

So since I have my goggles and VTXs set to identical frequencies what sort of range should I be expecting?

>> No.1417837

>>1417783
Additional followup.

Turns out Aomway has a habit of renaming their bands for no reason, so standard channel C isnt the same as Aomway C.

Turns out AOMWAY C is BOSCAM A, so I set the Focal v2 to BOSCAM A and should now have all my quads and Fatsharks set to 5765. Went through the manuals of my 2 Inductrix models and their VTX settings seem to confirm this.

So since I have my goggles and VTXs set to identical frequencies what sort of range should I be expecting?

>> No.1417924
File: 101 KB, 686x915, IMG_20180703_101432.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1417924

Tried to devise a vertical storage solution in an apartment where I can't drill into the walls & don't trust 3M Command Hooks.... Yeah... I just ordered a floor standing metal mesh thing to hang them on instead.

>>1417837
Yeah, lots of manufacturers end up naming the bands seemingly at random, so 'band D' on any particular receiver often doesn't match with 'band D' on any particular VTX. Best thing to do is to check the actual frequencies (eg 5860 rather than 'channel 4').

If you don't fly behind obstructions & are more than a few metres off the ground, a 25mW VTX with omni antennas should have no trouble getting you at least 500m, 600mW should easily give you many kms especially with a patch on your goggles.

>> No.1418162

>>1417924
Getting some crappy wind so I havent had a chance to test anything yet. All of my whoops seem to confirm that Ive at least got all the quads set to 5765, whether the goggles are there is questionable but likely. For $300 FPV goggles Im kinda surprised Fatshark doesnt have their own OSD that show flashes the current frequency whenever you switch channels.

Youre also making me think theres something wrong with my Snapper6 or my Flysky i6s. All my 250s and 2 of my whoops are set up with a DX8, Snapper6 and Lizard95 are on an I6s. That Snapper 6 can lose video and TX/RC connection at like 40 feet sometimes... Up until I watched my dad accidentally get the Inductrix 150 yards away and it was still connected I thought whoops were just limited.

>> No.1418276

>>1418162
had a test flight, had some lines and slight breakup in the video when I got maybe 100-150 yards directly to the left of where I was looking, chickened out and flew back before I lost video directly in front of me as I started getting over some heavily wooded areas.

Actually lost TX connection and crashed at that 150 yards to my back left but that wouldnt be anything with the VTX so Im not sure what to think about that. There were a number of trees between me and the quad so.

>> No.1418378

>>1418276
Well, now Im top of thefact that Im one of like 3 people that appear to be posting in this thread, it seems my DX8 cuts out before the video now. Had the cut out as mentioned in the quote post, had another one at maybe 250 yards of open field, lost signal and my quad failsafed. I had read that this radio has successfully tested as far as 800m with stock electronics, is my receiver shit?

Im not educated enough on the matter to say I can doubt it would effect anything or not, but theres a decent amount of smoke in the air currently from a nearby wildfire, any way that can effect anything?

>> No.1418379

>>1418378
antenna placement?

>> No.1418411

>>1418379
Have 1 antenna coming out the front right side of the quad, another coming out the back left. Looking into it the receivers are made for smaller frames than the one I have them in, so both antennas are only like an inch long.

>> No.1418477

>>1404879
Dunno shit about drones, just curious. Is it possible to extend your drone's range by placing a bunch of antennas everywhere and relaying your remote's signal through them? I know the FCC doesn't allow anything more than 200 ft without a license, so you'd have to space them at intervals smaller than that I'd imagine.

>> No.1418488

>>1418477
So I just googled "long range drone". Are the best drones on the market really only capable of 30-40 minutes of flight time? Bit disappointed, thought these things could last for several hours.

>> No.1418494

>>1418477
Theres already a number broadcast laws FPV drones violate regularly so I wouldnt be too concerned about anything. That being said a system of relays like that would be rather difficult to achieve and foolproof. Best option as far as FPV quads go is Crossfire gear, sen a few videos of Crossfire VTXs and RXs achieving 1+ mile FPV flights. Look into videos of the MyTwinDream plane, theres a few 100+km runs around.

>>1418488
As for flight time it kind of depends on how extreme youre willing to take it. Ive watched a youtube video of a dude strapping some kind of buggy or car battery to a Hubsan drone and hovering it for 4 hours. Basically as far as I know if you can get a custom made 4' frame, some 250a ESCs, maybe some massive 120 or 150kv motors and a really big battery you could probably fly for hours. Flight time all comes down to the efficiency of the motors and the size of the battery, I believe youre only limited by the actual ability to get big enough parts, because as far as RC stuff goes a bigger battery weighs more, which needs more thrust to get it off the ground, requires bigger motors, requires bigger props, requires more power.

>> No.1418502

>>1418494
Thanks, I appreciate the response. What are your thoughts on the DJI Phantom 4?

>> No.1418508

>>1418502
Depends on what you wanna do with it.

if you can get excited about just cruising around 300 feet in the air, or skimming a cliff, looking at scenery, then its great. If you want to zoom around a small area and do tricks, rolls, buzz the tower, then you may find the DJI boring.

DJI products are overall going to be easier to fly, having onboard GPS, altitude hold, full telemetry, return to launch, usually idiot proof failsafes. Basically you have to go full retards to crash one.

>> No.1418549

>>1418477
>>1418488
>>1418494
Longest realistic flight time for a multirotor drone is about 40 minutes & that's assuming something built specifically for endurance & not necessarily for actual utility. Fixed wing can be made to fly for longer & while maintaining utility, getting over an hour is no difficult feat.

>sen a few videos of Crossfire VTXs and RXs achieving 1+ mile FPV flights

Crossfire is a control link, not a video link. As long as you have decent unobstructed line of sight then any 868/915MHz control link like Crossfire or FrSky R9 should easily do 20km. Likewse with decent helical antennas & a motorized antenna tracker, a 1200mW 5.8GHz VTX will do 20km.

>if you can get a custom made 4' frame, some 250a ESCs, maybe some massive 120 or 150kv motors and a really big battery you could probably fly for hours.

Afraid not, there are simple limits to efficiency that mean that scaling up doesn't continue to add flight time.

>>1418411
The length of the antenna is a product of the wavelength, what you have are probably quarter wave or fifth wave. When you see receivers with longer antennas they probably also have the same active length, they just have more shielded/inactive length to allow you to route/position the antenna more easily on larger models.

>> No.1418789

>>1418549
Well I had read that leaving short antennas inside the frame of a quad can be bad since carbon fiber conducts electricity guess it can block the signal too. Even though the antennas in my quads are only like an inch long I pulled them through the flight stack, since the receiver is on the top of the stack, and ziptied them to one of the nylon standoffs facing out oft he frame.

Id like to say Ive done good but quads are my first venture into self built electronics, not counting a custom PC since that shit is basically LEGO assembly. Definitely my first time dicking around with various radio signals.

Somewhat expecting someone to tell me you cant run antennas through a flight stack. Before this one of them was sitting on top of the VTX, and the other was crammed into the containment area for the camera on the Martian II. Now that both are sticking out the side I have high hopes. Guess if this doesnt work Ill order a couple of the same LemonRX DSMX receivers but the version with longer antennas.

>> No.1418818
File: 581 KB, 1200x800, DSC05854.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1418818

>>1418789
Zip ties & heatshrink are your friends when it comes to mounting antennas (like the yellow ones in picrelated).

>> No.1418822
File: 1.10 MB, 2560x1440, 15307343051622019794285.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1418822

>>1418818
Here's how I have them in one build, just poking out the right side zipped tied to those standoffs. It's pretty much he same on the other except one is going out the left side.

>> No.1418843

>>1418822
Looks fine to me. Have you tried using the range test mode on your radio (if it has one), with a bare receiver with just power running into it?

>> No.1418848

trying to get started in FPV,

Can I use some spare screens and a Pi to make a decent FPV for RC boating or does anyone prefer a cheap kit?

>> No.1418916

>>1418848
If you're talking about the video transmission aspect, most FPV uses analogue rather than digital for a variety of reasons.

$20 will buy you a little CMOS camera with a 5.8GHz analogue transmitter, $55 will buy you a pair of goggles with a built in 5.8GHz analogue receiver (that also splits apart to work as a regular screen if you don't want to wear them as goggles).

>> No.1418920

Can someone tell me where the best collection of thrust stand results can be found? I am particularly interested in motor sizes from 1104 to 1807.

>> No.1418923

>>1418920
https://www.miniquadtestbench.com/ is very good, but I think they mainly focus on 5" size motors. Probably some smaller stuff in there though.

>> No.1418924

>>1418923
I looked at them, they don't have any 1306 motors tested. I also have no idea how to interpret their graphs; I am specifically looking for efficiency at 60g thrust.

>> No.1418930

>>1418924
Afaik efficiency is very hard/laborious to measure/quantify, because it's not linear throughout the throttle range.

At best the manufacturer or a tester may give you tests performed at a few different throttle values, but if you're expecting to find values specific to 60g of thrust for a particular motor/prop combination you're shit outta luck.

>> No.1418931

lol drones are gay

>> No.1418933

>>1418930
Thanks for input. I actually plan on buying a thrust stand (probably an rcbenchmark) and testing a variety of motors from 1104 to 1807 at specific thrust levels and tracking the corresponding efficiency. The motivation being, my builds are all sub 250g weight. the 60g example I gave is the approximate thrust required for hover of a 250g quad. I plan on testing lower thrust levels too (for lighter quads) and higher levels (for cruise all the way up to top speed) and also testing up to 5 or even 6 inch props.

Basically, I need a hobby, and thrust tests on motors seems like a great way to spend some time. Do you happen to know if the scripting function of rcbenchmark can easily be programmed to ramp to specific thrust levels?

>> No.1418940

>>1418933
>Do you happen to know if the scripting function of rcbenchmark can easily be programmed to ramp to specific thrust levels?

Not a clue, sorry. Only time I check thrust tests is to make sure I'm not going to fry ESCs.

>> No.1419036

>>1418924
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TldsBfXRUAE

>> No.1419057
File: 20 KB, 320x230, 25464.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

Will one of these .15 size nitro engines work upside down?
https://youtu.be/t6OXO-RzbTg

>> No.1419067

>>1419057
Looks like the one from my balsa wood airplane . It flew upside down alot

>> No.1419117

>>1419067
Great! That's exactly my purpose

>> No.1419180

>>1404879
Is there any good drone that I can control from a computer?
I would like it to have a good range, I don't need a fancy camera.

If I need to assemble or add things to it, I can do so, provided it is well documented and the parts can be easily acquired.

My budget is kind of tight...

Thanks, guys..

>> No.1419182

>>1419180
One option would be an older second hand DJI drone, you can control them via ground control station apps on smartphones/tablets to fly to waypoints, fly pre planned routes, etc.

Another option would be to build a quad that runs iNav on a racing drone flight controller (very cheap), which can similarly be controlled via ground control station software that can run on a computer as well as on smartphones/tablets.

The middle ground would be building a quad that runs Arducopter on a Pixhawk.

The DJI approach would be the easiest, but probably the most expensive & least flexible. The iNav approach would be the cheapest, but it's by far the least mature platform. The Arducopter approach would probably be the most flexible, probably slightly cheaper than DJI & a lot more mature & capable than iNav.

>> No.1419265

>>1419182
Thank you.
What control ranges are possible?
Is there any way to control a drone dozens or hundreds of kilometres away?

>> No.1419274

>>1419182
If it's just ground control station control that you want (eg sending waypoints for semi-autonomous flight, not low latency stick control for manual flight) then you can look into long range radio modems like the RFD900/RFD868 which will get you dozens of kilometres (massively dependent on line of sight & RF conditions - iirc a RFD900 has been used for 40km on a balloon with no obstructions). Beyond that, you can use 3G/4G for this sort of control.

>> No.1419382

>>1419274 was meant for >>1419265 obvi

>> No.1419422

>>1418916
do you hab links pls

>> No.1419462

>>1418843
Yes Ive used the range test mode, but not with a bare receiver. I really dont see what the range test is supposed to do though. I performed the test exactly as described in a couple short videos. Walk 30 steps away, press the button, TX shows low power mode, quad still functions. It shows no data, unless that button puts it at 1% of its power I really dont get the idea.

>> No.1419475

>>1404879
I just finished a rebuild from my failed 180 size drone. I used 5" size components, so it handled like a pig in the air...
I put the innards into a 5" frame, 210 size, now it weighs 350g dry and around 420g with battery. Which is odd, considering the 180 size frame was 510g with the same battery.
Is this realistic? Was that 180 frame such piece of shit it weighs almost 90g more than a 210 size frame?

>> No.1419481

>>1419462
I had a similar funky decreased range on my previous radio, turns out the cable to the antenna frayed around the connector. Spent a whole day trying to resolder it. Took me almost a month to find the actual problem, I tested receivers, batteries, servos, ESCs, everything that could cause a drop in signal or voltage. Out of desperation I took apart my radio and there it was.
Had a similar problem with a clubmates radio, this time it was his only receiver which he used in all his planes. Tried a range test with a new receiver, it was fine.
We also had a drop in signal on an all carbon glider in a position where the wing blocked out both antennas. With 2.4GHz you should place the active part of the antenna at least 2.5 cm away from carbon or other metal parts and place it so one antenna always has a clean line of sight.

>> No.1419503

>>1419462
The idea of range check mode (at least on FrSky radios) is that it reduces transmission range by a factor of 30 (which is 0.1% because of inverse square or whatever). So you walk away until the receiver failsafes & then you know that actual range will be roughly 30 times the distance you walked.

If you can't walk at very least 70-80ft without it failsafing then you know there is something wrong with the transmitter &/or receiver.

>> No.1419648

>>1419117
Starting it will need to be upright, the oil can well up in the glow plug if you try to start it upside down ruining your whole day.

>> No.1419699
File: 2.37 MB, 360x640, dumb me or dumb iNav.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

>>1405312
I added an omnibus in my plane like you suggested to some dude above and it's pretty sweet! But I can't figure out why iNav, more often than less, doesn't let me config servos. Any ideas? Google/DuckDuckGo don't have too many results for this.

>> No.1419732
File: 12 KB, 464x264, servo.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

>>1419699
I found out I can still make servo adjustments within the CLI, but the table still doesn't appear. I wonder if this is a bug.

>> No.1419768

I just stumbled upon FPV drones and it looks pretty cool, but idk if I want to dump hundreds for a basic drone and headset setup just yet. Are there any decent ones that connect to your smartphone or are they all shit tier?

>> No.1419785

>>1419768
Some FPV goggles are under $100. Also, instead of goggles, you can use a small LCD display. FPV is generally analogue, not digital. Using a smartphone would be digital.

>> No.1419864

>>1419699
I'm assuming you've done what it says about the mixer tab?

>> No.1419947

>>1419768
You can get something like the Eachine ROTG01 and a Google cardboard.

>> No.1419950

>>1419947
That has way too much lag for FPV. It's fine for spectators, but you can't fly with it except for DJI style.

Just grab the Eachine EV800, it's a headset & LCD for dirt cheap.

>> No.1420006

>>1405267
If you have a 3D printer you should know full well just how far you can push it.
For a small quad, sure, but brace it to shit. For a large one? Depends how big you can print.
They do handle crashes pretty well, tho.
>>1405310
If you're using the motor's ESC to drop the voltage, don't worry, it's already done. If you're feeding a micro 7.4v RAW, what the hell are you doing?

Power usually goes battery to ESC, then to motors, but the ESC also will feed 5v out for everything else, and this is stable.
>>1405451
That's battery protection you're talking about. RC stuff doesn't have it because you want to run the batteries to their full extent, and it's much better burning a battery to safely land a plane then having a protection chip cut power.
For tanks it doesn't matter so much, just take responsibility and you'd be fine.
If your tank can draw more power than a battery can supply, you need a better battery.
If there's a short, hope a wire melts before your battery explodes.
>>1405462
Those just beep at you when the battery's low, and that should be all you ever need.
>>1405565
If you look around on Aliexpress and bangood there's a few claws/grabber arms that are just servos and a bit of acrylic, could be what you want.
>>1406046
The battery pack might have multiple pins, but it contains cells, and those cells are just +/-.
If it's just one cell, or a bunch of cells in parallel, give it 4v. Half way between 3.7 and 4.2.
If it's got a cluster of two cells in series, then 8v. 3 in series, 12v. Buy a dead battery on ebay and look inside if you must.

>> No.1420015

>>1406517
You fire a gun in a vacuum chamber, I fucking guarantee it'll move.
And just another thing you're wrong on, bullets have oxidisers in them, they don't need to burn the fucking air, they're not cars.
Equal and opposite reaction. By your logic, it'd be just as easy for all the gas to stay where it was at detention, the bullet not to move, and for the gun to shoot off into space at 1000 miles an hour, "Because there's no resistance"
>>1408431
>Cheap
>Good
>Quick
You want Cheap (<$500) and Quick (Off the shelf), and, as it seems, Good (aren't absolute trash).
Pick which two are most important motherfucker.
>>1411259
Windows 8+ doesn't like most drivers, disable driver signature enforcement, get a different serial adaptor, or try different drivers.
>>1415259
Read the config off the drone, make sure those settings have actually written properly.
>>1417558
Depends how fast you wanna push it, but look around for what other similar builds use, and consider that a safe minimum.
>>1418848
No.
Wifi range is shit for video, unless you have a directional antenna.
You could get an analog to digital receiver for the pi, but all in all cheap kits are always gonna be cheaper, have more range, and less latency than anything a pi will do.
If you want decent video, throw an action cam on, don't use the FPV stream for recoding.
>>1418931
u2 fagboi
>>1419057
2stroke works on vacuum, not gravity. I doubt it'd give a shit.

>> No.1420018
File: 297 KB, 925x548, Kinder Surprise Smuggling Plan.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

There, I tried answering some questions, now I'd appreciate a bit of help myself.
Tell me everything that's wrong with this, why I'm stupid, why it won't work, all that shit, I wanna hear it.

For funz I'm trying to build something that can autonomously travel from Australia to the United States, I've spent a fair while experimenting with boats, and have had them zipping around lakes for months on end untouched, but the sea is just too abrasive for them to handle, so I'm back to aerial options.
Just today I started thinking about gliders, attached to a balloon to take it 20 miles/30km up, dropping it, and seeing how far it could get surfing currents.
If feasible, the idea would be a glider with propulsion (only used when necessary), a battery array, and solar cells on the wings. Carry it up via ballon, or just have it circle up in the Aussie desert on thermals and solar power, till it was well above cloud level for continuous sunlight, stay around a height that gave it plenty of leeway if the thermals were shit, but not so high the air was too thin, charge its batteries, and if its batteries were charged and it was still day, use all power from the solar panels to propel itself faster.
During the night, just drift down slowly, catching thermals if possible, but conserving power, not going below the tops of clouds.

I wasn't sure if RC planes could catch thermals, let alone something autonomous, but it looks like someone's already done so, with a shocking amount of success:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6tu7dL_MZE

My question is how many thermals are there over oceans, how high could I safely fly, what's a height zone I wouldn't hit commercial aircraft (Or just say fuck it and avoid commercial flightpaths altogether), and what else is wrong with my plans?
Are there better options for this? Do tell me your crazy ideas, fucking Gyrocopters, whatever, I wanna hear it.

>> No.1420020
File: 246 KB, 1280x720, Allah Akbar.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

>>1420018
Budget's hopefully $5k, up to $10k if I must. Payload of 1 pound/0.5kg is a must, but I'm guessing this'll call for a fucking big wingspan anyway, so a few pounds won't mean jack shit.

>> No.1420023
File: 508 KB, 712x1118, Screenshot_20180706-091843_Brave.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

>>1420018
I remember my grandparents talking about an old bomb that was found outside of their small town out west. Apparently the japs made weather balloons that just drifted in air currents during WWII (I think that was the war) in the hopes that they would randomly inflict carnage in the US. They used sand bags like blimps that would auto drop when altitude got too low.

>> No.1420030

>>1420023
It isn't a missile and the trajectory isn't ballistic, so it's obviously not an ICBM.

>The Germans were building ballistic missiles and designing ICBM's while the Jap's were sharpening bamboo and blowing up balloons

The Japs deserved to lose.

>> No.1420038

>>1420023
I did think of just using a balloon, trying to get it to hang at an altitude that won't burst it, and crossing my finders really fucking hard, but I want reliability and perhaps A two way trip so trusting the currents would only help me for half of it anyway

>> No.1420040

>>1420020
Just found https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m4_NpTQn0E, I might just try recreating this but with a tougher wing. That thing managed 2kkm out of 12kkm, and it was sticking to bullshit rules, so if I can build something that'll physically endure the flight, I should be golden.
>mfw a fucking balsawood flyer crossing the pacific ocean
Now I'm tempted.
Fuck it, I'll just build something and see how long it can zigzag around Australia for, if all's good then fly it over to the US, if it makes it to the US just have it fly back, land, then I can fill it with the kinder eggs and camera and film everything properly, and get a plane ticket to the US to film the landing.

>> No.1420056
File: 105 KB, 892x1390, iNav config settings.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

>>1419864
The mixer says I have to update the firmware, but from what I can find, I'm up-to-date on everything. Plus, the mixer page has said that since I installed it, and the servo tab has worked before.

>> No.1420145
File: 272 KB, 600x900, IMG_0045.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

Went a bit overkill with quad storage, it's ended up looking like a shrine. But now I don't have quads cluttering up every flat surface.

>>1420056
You need to check the 'show unstable releases' option to get RC firmwares to show up in the dropdown.

>>1420018
Look up microtransat if you haven't already. Even if you want to build a flyer rather than a boat, a lot of their experiences will still probably be pertinent.

>>1420006
>The battery pack might have multiple pins, but it contains cells, and those cells are just +/-.

DJI batteries since at least P3 have a data connection as well, which lets the drone query things like temperature & number of charge/discharge cycles from a MCU in the battery itself. I would be extremely surprised if something like a Phantom would let you take off if you gave it power on the main connections but it got no response on the data connections.

>> No.1420222

>>1420145
>Look up microtransat if you haven't already
Thanks, they've been where I've got most of my information already.
At this point, I'll be building a flying boat more than anything, har har.

>Battery
I should have been more specific, open up the battery and disconnect the cells from the battery management board, and supply the 4v into that.
Might need three seperate supplies here, but it should still work.
What's probably best, actually, would be to leave the cells attached so you have a buffer, you don't want to be drawing more power than your cable would supply, but this could help.

>> No.1420295
File: 684 KB, 2016x980, 20180706_184155.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

here i go

>> No.1420411

>>1405310
>>1420006
>If there's a short, hope a wire melts before your battery explodes.
You could use fusible link wire. It's basically wire of a smaller gauge than the wires it's protecting, with a flame-proof insulation. It can handle high amp draws for short periods, but if you are pulling too high amps for an extended period the wire will fail, and it will not burst into flames. A lot of cars actually use this in place of fuses, and so this wire is readily available at just about every auto parts store. It's also useful for things that normally experience high amps draws for short periods, such as motor startup.

This is a dead simple solution, and it's very cheap
.

>> No.1420423

>>1405942
0/10

>> No.1420426

>>1405872
>The lift props generate is inversely proportional to their distance from the ground
wut

>> No.1420432

>>1406084
>Not all builds will need extra capacitance
can you give an example of a setup that would need this?
Or attributes of a setup that make needing this more likely?

>> No.1420435

>>1406631
>>1406946
are there any good small fpv cameras that are monochrome only?

>> No.1420439

>>1406778
hakko is good. you can find used wellers very cheaply. i used pace in a production environment and they were good, but i never looked for them on my own so no idea of their cost

i use a weller at work and a hakko at home. the hakko needs a whole new wand, but worked good until the interior of the want started deteriorating. i like the hakko otherwise

>> No.1420458

>>1420018
>have had them zipping around lakes for months on end untouched
details please

>> No.1420475

>>1420432
Big ESC, big motor, motor bigger than ESC could handle, motors with low amounts of windings, ESC's with active breaking, rapid start/stop on the props. I dunno, just anything that could make too much electrical noise.

>> No.1420483

>>1420040
>yfw balsa gasser already flew across the atlantic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KEIq76JE7o

You should stick with the balloon idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpBnurznFio

>> No.1420488

>>1420458
I can't say ALL that much, basically I'm filming a short for a TV channel (They're working on a yet unannounced show, basically mythbusters meets beyond tomorrow), and I'll be talking about long range autonomous drones.
The goal is simple: Launch something from Australia, have it deliver a donut to someone in America. It's an Uber Eats joke, which will be utterly out of date by the time the show airs (Much like the donut).
Because of microtransat I thought boat would be easiest, as it's basically already been done, and the only other thing I considered was blimps, but they get knocked around by wind too much, and are prone to leaks. I never considered a solar glider.
The boat I built was a carbon copy clone of http://www.seacharger.com , most of the electronics the same, but with redundant GPS modules, multiple compas's for dead reckoning just in case, and the same satellite module they used.
As a leak test I went out to a local lake that was possibly too close to Australia's main political buildings, and after about a day I got a very angery phone call from ASIO. Much sooking later and they finally gave me the thing back, on the condition I don't show any photos of it in that lake or photos of that specific build. Apparently they don't want anyone thinking THEY've got autonomous drones monitoring the capital, as that'd spook people out (which mine did, they kept getting phone calls all day about the ASIO spy drone in the lake)
ANYWAY, I ended up chucking it in the Hume weir and it fucked around for like three months without anyone giving a shit, so I was happy.
The problem was it was slow as all hell, the AUS/USA trip would take over 100 days each way, and that's with still water.
For shits and giggles, and with barely 100 days left till the show aired, I threw it in the ocean anyway, just to see how far it'd get, something got jammed in the prop after about a week and it crashed into New Zealand.

>> No.1420495
File: 276 KB, 1920x1080, IMG_20180622_155520.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

I found a quadcopter hidden in some grass in an abandoned trash site last week. Clearly it was just lying there for many months as the screws were rusting under the open exposure of the weather. I guess someone flew it into the site and couldn't find it.

The battery and lights are working. I don't have the transmitter. This is my first experience with a drone. Can I get it to fly without buying a transmitter controller?

>> No.1420525

>>1420488
I meant technical details of your boat that operated autonomously for "months on end"

>> No.1420532

>>1420495
Looks like some $50 mavic clone you can get off Amazon. Would probably be more cost effective to buy a new one if you're actually interested.

>> No.1420839

>>1420145
>that woody
I absolutely love it. How did it perform?

>> No.1420918
File: 413 KB, 1200x800, DSC05863.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1420918

>>1420839
I literally only did one short LoS flight with it to see if it worked, but apart from having bad bounceback on the pitch axis after flips on stock PIDs it worked fine. I recently found an old AIO cam/VTX that I stuck on top so I'll give it another go sometime.

>> No.1421039

Can anyone recommend some sub-40 gram frames that will fit 4" props?

>> No.1421040

>>1421039
forgot to specify, I am looking for a "unibody" design; no detachable arms

>> No.1421529

>>1421040
>>1421039
Closest I could find was an LDARC at 54 grams.

This would be way easier if you ran 3 inch or non unibody. To be fair with todays quads you could easily build a 2-3 inch that performs like a 5-6 inch if thats what youre going for. And to be completely honest 90% oft he breaks Ive seen in these carbon fiber frames are somewhere between the motor mount and the middle of the arm, why would you want a frame that would need to be entirely replaced when this happens?

>> No.1421535 [DELETED] 

>>1421529
I lied, the Realacc 150 is 50g.

>> No.1421537

>>1421529
I lied.

The Realacc 150 is 50g.
Awesome TX180 at 43.
GGT150 at 45g.

One of those has removeable arms but its also the lightest, so, there you go.

>> No.1421539

>>1421529
>Closest I could find was an LDARC at 54 grams.
Catalyst Machine Works SuperLight 4 is 38 grams, but its been out of stock for a while now. Theres one at AvantQuads which is right at 40 grams

>This would be way easier if you ran 3 inch or non unibody
Well I already have a light 3 inch non-unibody quad, a Diatone Blade 150. Funny thing is I can get longer arms for it to make it a 4 inch and 5 inch, and still be under THIRTY grams

>> No.1421543

>>1421537
Well, for my 4 inch build I wanna go unibody, but I also want to do a light 5 inch build, I guess I'd be willing to go removable arms on the 5 inch.

Basically wanna keep these all under 250g. This will be "easy" for the 4 inch, the 5 inch will be a challenge

>> No.1421546

>>1421543
>GGT150
That GGT150 doesnt look bad.

Obviously I only checked Banggood but thats not the point.

>> No.1421677

What is the technical name for "clover-leaf" or "lollipop" antennae? I am trying to find them on Wikipedia but have not been successful.
I know they are "circular polarized" antennae but Wikipedia does not show the same types with that search term

>> No.1421694

>>1421677
and wow, while searching I came across this:

http://www.maartenbaert.be/quadcopters/antennas/pagoda-antenna/

Seems to perform better than clover-leaf and it's open-source

>> No.1421699

Quick question, how do you measure the size of a quadcopter? Like, I often see people refer to their quad as "220mm" or "5 inch". When someone uses millimeters, is it the diagonal length of the frame? Are the inches the size of the props? I haven't built/bought a quadcopter yet, so I'm just trying to wrap my head around how people determine the sizes.

>> No.1421704

>>1421699
Diagonally from 1 motor post to another.

The inch value is indeed the usual prop size used with said frame/

>> No.1421711

>>1421699
I prefer the inch measurement, because sometimes a frame that is smaller diagonally can actually fit larger props (example, if the frame isn't a true X shape)

>> No.1421969

>>1421694
It gets out of alignment quickly and becomes shit from a simple crash. The cloverleaf antennas like Spironet, TBS and AXII are better protected and only get a bit wonky if the wires themselves get bent a bit vs the pagoda turning instantly into shit.

>> No.1421982

>>1421677
>>1421694
The term you're looking for is 'skew planar'. And yes, pagodas perform better in my experience.

>>1421969
>It gets out of alignment quickly and becomes shit from a simple crash

That's why you buy the encased ones, not the bare ones - exactly the same as TBS/AXII compared to cheaper non enclosed cloverleaf.

Also FYI neither the TBS Triumph or the AXII are skew planar. The former is a lindenblad, the latter is something else.

>> No.1421990

>>1421982
The encased ones also get messed up easily, it only needs a half of a mm deflection on one plane to totally shit out. I tried it out once but quickly went back to Aomway and similar antennas.

>> No.1421993
File: 219 KB, 1000x1000, raptor.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1421993

>>1421990
I've been flying pretty much nothing but Menace pagodas for the last 6 months & all of them are still flawless (& I smack into a lot of trees/gates). I'm not quite sure how you're expecting to move the PCBs inside picrelated without completely smashing the outer casing. Everybody I know that uses them has the flex break beneath the casing before the casing itself lets any damage through to the PCBs.

>> No.1422153

>>1421982
>skew planar
>lindenblad
damn, no mention of these antennae on wikipedia

>> No.1422157

>>1421993
>>1421969
why do these seem to only be used on video transmitters and not the control receivers/transmitters?

>> No.1422164
File: 168 KB, 1000x562, DSC08173.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1422164

>>1422157
I don't know all the reasons, but one is that 2.4GHz circular polarised antennas are huge (I'm gonna guess the length of each section of the lobe is double that for 5.8GHz?). Picrelated is a 2.4GHz skew planar on an oldschool 330 size quad, so just imagine that same antenna on a modern 210 size quad.

>> No.1422664

So Ive got a Martian II 250 build with Emax 2205S 2300kv motors. Ive been running 5 inch props like normal but I was curious about running bi-props. Since the frame will allow it would it be better to go with the regular 5 inch prop or pump it up to 6 inch? or would that overprop the motor?

>> No.1422678

>>1422664
I don't think a 6 inch prop is anywhere close to the max for a 2205. You can run a 6 inch prop on a 1306 or 1407 as far as I am concerned. especially like a 6x3 or 6x3.5.

>> No.1422713

>>1417558
if an estimate is ok for you...
my 1/10 touring car weights 1400 grams and i'm great with a 7 kg servo, since a 1/8 buggy weights around double that, you should be ok with 14kg servo.

>> No.1422746

>>1422678
Would a 6 inch be better than a 5 inch in any way?

>> No.1422766

>>1412177
Nice Numbers

>> No.1422981

>>1422746
it would be better in most ways. better efficiency and more thrust. for a given thrust level, it will use less amps. however, it will have a higher max amp draw. it might rev a little slower, but will have more thrust at any given rpm anyway

>> No.1423029

>>1422981
Thanks man!

Guess Ill just run some test flights and see what happens, Iver got spare motors for some of my quads anyways haha.

>> No.1423065

Is there a good open-source transmitter firmware counter-part to OpenTX?

>> No.1423126

>>1423065
Deviation used to be popular, but these days I think everybody that contributes toward FLOSS RC radio does it via the OpenTX project.

>>1422746
5 inch is more agile & more durable, so is ideally suited for racing & freestyle, 6 inch gives you longer flight times, so is nice for cruising or long range.

>> No.1423144

>>1423065
er9x

>> No.1423353

Well, I just had a few test flights.

Besides learning power rolls arent quite as easy as I thought theyd be after all the videos I watched I also learned Im still having connection issues. Quad failsafed and fell from the sky flat onto a road from maybe 250-300 feet in the air. Both antennas are completely unobstructed, having one poking out of both sides of the quad, DX8 v2 transmitter. I guess this is still space to fly but after reading around and watching a number of videos, none of my quads reach the ranges they are supposed too. I lose TX signal with perfect video and drop from the air, land on a battery.

On a related note, is it safe to use a squished lipo? The battery isnt puctured or damaged save for having been landed on from 300 feet, its dented in pretty good..

>> No.1423422
File: 2.42 MB, 4640x2610, IMG_20180711_103010.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1423422

Does anybody have any experience with binding the frsky djt module with a bewbrain. I have done this in the past but for some reason they aren't bound anymore and I can't get them to bind anymore I have tried turning on the tiny whoop with the button pressed and then the transmitter with both switches down and yhr button pressed.

>> No.1423427

>>1404879
>DJI wins here.
What does this mean.

>> No.1423448

Ok guys complete newfag to this hobby here. How do I get started with building my own drones/planes?
I trust users of a transylvanian woodcarving forum more than google.

>> No.1423461

>>1423448
The filitetest youtube channel has a lot of good information, they have a beginners playlist to get you started

>> No.1423465

>>1423427
It means there's really no point buying/building anything other than DJI if your aim is aerial photography.

>>1423448
Check the links in the OP, if you haven't already.

>>1423353
I mean, just be careful. Fly for 30 seconds fairly low over soft ground then land & see if there is any excessive heat/swelling coming from the battery. And obviously pay close attention to it when charging, don't leave the room & put your headphones on.

>> No.1423470
File: 264 KB, 502x395, Screenshot_2018-07-11_07-19-19.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1423470

>>1423465
>And obviously pay close attention to it when charging, don't leave the room & put your headphones on.

I would not use a damaged lipo ever, unless EVERYTHING in the vicinity is blowtorch safe.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRutyaxmdrs

>> No.1423476

>>1423465
I disagree with what you are saying about dji drones, you can definately get better quality when building a serious areal photography drone. And if you want comparable video quality to a dji and you don't care about all those features like gps you can definately get this stuff for cheaper than a dji.

>> No.1423488

>>1423476
>you can definately get better quality when building a serious areal photography drone

If you're talking really serious platforms (eg you're sinking $100k into a RED/Arri setup) then maybe, but for the sort of person who is going to come into this thread & wants advice about a flying camera for maybe $2000 tops, there simply isn't a sensible alternative to DJI.

>and you don't care about all those features like gps

'Those features' like GPS, HD video downlink, actual camera controls, etc. are crucial features of any aerial photography platform. If you're only comparing the video quality of a GoPro on a race quad to the camera on a Phantom 4, then of course they're going to be similar. But you cannot compare the functionality of those two platforms.

If somebody asks if they can DIY something like a Phantom for cheaper than a Phantom, the simple answer is no.

>> No.1423782

>>1423448
Plan a budget $50-500
Decided what you want to build; sailplane, fixed wing, long range drone, camera drone, racing drone
Look up parts based off budget and build
Straight up buy a frsky qx7 as your transmitter anything cheaper than it is not worth cause of shitty gimbals software and receiver, anything more expensive isn't worth it cause it won't add that much more.
If you plan to add fpv you can go the cheap route but its not worth getting the eachine cheap box googles cause the screens are god awful and hurt my eyes.
Also the axll by lumenier antennas get some amazing range I use them on my long range drone. Don't bother paying more for a CMOS if your budget is tight get a normal CCD from foxeer they are cheap and good.

>> No.1423809

>>1423144
Are there any major differences between the 2? From looking at screenshots, they look pretty similar. Is one better documented? Does one support more hardware or protocals?

>> No.1423823

>>1423809
The major difference is that almost everybody uses OpenTX while pretty much nobody has even heard of er9x. Just look at the number of commits/releases/etc. on their respective Github pages.

er9x
90 commits
3 branches
5 releases
2 contributors

OpenTX
10,775 commits
63 branches
101 releases
75 contributors

>> No.1424605

You guys think a single layer of hink shrink is enough to at all soft mount a motor? Got an old Lizard95 running again today and read soft mounting the motors is a must. But mine is a somewhat recent edition so it came with 5mm screws instead of the original 7. Dont have any other screws so I just used a single layer of heat shrink over each mounting point.

>> No.1425596
File: 21 KB, 491x316, gopher.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1425596

I was curious does anybody use gobot when they make their own drones?

>go language framework for robotics/IoT
>https://gobot.io/

>> No.1425608

>>1424605
I am building a quad with no soft-mounting for the motors. The arms are soft mounted with very thin plastic washers, and the FC is mounted on rubber o-rings.

I think you will be fine with the heat-shrink, but I am no expert.

>> No.1425670

what can I use as connectors for motors? I plan on not using more than 10A per motor. I have a bunch of MR30s but they are heavier than I would like.

I am direct soldered now, but it would nice to be able to disassemble my quad and not have all the motors attached to my 4in1 esc. plus it would allow me to route my wires thru cut-outs in the frame/arms much easier. And it would make motors swaps easier

>> No.1425708

>>1425608
At this point it doesnt matter, camera loses signal after like 20 feet for some reason so I wont be able to fly it until I get a new one anyways..

>> No.1425768

>>1418818
can anyone help me identify the parts in this miniquad?

also I'm new to quads and I'm looking for a good 250 partlist/guide

>> No.1426007

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqjepaX_j_4
This looks really cool, I can be a pilot without the expensive training and risk of dying.
Been thinking about building my own little plane with a controllable fpv camera but it's always laws and regulations that make it such a turnoff. Living in a densely populated area makes it very difficult to be absolutely sure it's alright to fly.

>> No.1426035

>>1425670
bullet connectors

>> No.1426037

>>1425768

Both are Hyperlite Flowride frames with Racerstar Tattoo F4S flight controller/4in1 ESCs, Matek VTX-HV video transmitters with Lumenier AXII antennas, Foxeer Micro Arrow v2 cameras & R-XSR receivers. The left has Brotherhobby Venom motors, the right has T-Motor F40 III motors.

>> No.1426239

>>1426007
if you are in the usa, one way to lessen the amount of laws and regulation that applies to you, is to keep your build under 250 grams flying weight

>> No.1426306
File: 304 KB, 1200x800, IMG_0067.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1426306

Surprisingly fun :3

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2889597

>> No.1426324
File: 513 KB, 5184x2916, f_1_ErNPi7RzvLIZ33wAyXtiMEjjw.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1426324

https://rotorbuilds.com/build/8778

I'm building this mini-quad part for part. How badly did I fuck up?

Also I am going to be using a 6 channel 2.4GHz transmitter with a 16 channel 24GHz receiver. Will this even work? I'm assuming yes

>> No.1426369

>>1426324
>2.4GHz transmitter
>24GHz receiver

I'm assuming you mean 2.4GHz receiver?

>> No.1426370

>>1426369
correct

>> No.1426398

>>1426370
Well as long as the transmitter & receiver are the same protocol it should be fine.

>> No.1426505

Are there any drones that can carry a substantial amount of weight and be easily programmed to run a predetermined path?

Looking to have a drone that can spread grass seed along 11 acres of land.

>> No.1426584

The parrot bebop 1 is $80 refurbed from tech rabbit right now.
I have never had anything more than a baby boy drone.

With that in mind, if I buy the $80 parrot drone, could I cannibalize it to make a great DIY build for very cheap, or is that not how this works at all?

>> No.1426621

if i am using a brushless motor that draws 15 amps, does that mean each wire to the motor should be rated for 15 amps?

>> No.1426624

>>1426621
diagram and solve the circuit to determine which wires have what current for what load

>> No.1426638

>>1419422
hey not op, but i googled out of curiosity

Camera:https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-TX01-Super-Mini-AIO-5_8G-40CH-25MW-VTX-600TVL-14-Cmos-FPV-Transmitter-p-1088374.html?gmcCountry=CA&currency=CAD&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_ods&utm_content=heath&utm_campaign=pla-fpv-ca-pc-en&gclid=CjwKCAjw4avaBRBPEiwA_ZetYr-eCs7W-bss8NNIusddBGEBIQJ8oG7VkQp8dZRgeOZkNF0PkbypORoCq6YQAvD_BwE&cur_warehouse=USA

Goggles:https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-EV800-5-Inches-800x480-FPV-Goggles-5_8G-40CH-Raceband-Auto-Searching-Build-In-Battery-p-1053357.html?gmcCountry=CA&currency=CAD&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_ods&utm_content=heath&utm_campaign=pla-fpv-ca-pc-en&gclid=CjwKCAjw4avaBRBPEiwA_ZetYrvjA56mWJpDjWSFljlc-lo8-sOUKmRSHplGjTAVxrWmeAIuXM9BCxoCE4cQAvD_BwE&cur_warehouse=CN

>> No.1426727

>>1426505
Search 'agricultural drone', they're a thing but they are not cheap & not even that effective. It'd be laughably cheaper just to hire some labor.

>> No.1426742

>>1423461
>>1423465
>>1423782
Well I made up my mind and decided to build a Plane from scratch. What are some beginner tier servos, recievers and radios?

>> No.1426758

>>1426505
Why would you ever want to put grass on 11 acres of land that already does not have any grass? Just plant part of it and let the wind do the rest.

>> No.1426783

>>1426742
Buy a Taranis, it's false economy to try to save money when starting off by getting any other radio.

For servos, the generic blue 9g ones are fine for experimenting with. If you want better ones (more reliable, etc.) look for Emax or Tower Pro. Be wary of fake Tower Pro ones though.

>> No.1427235
File: 100 KB, 628x472, xackPeon_preview_featured.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1427235

Yo, /rcg/, I'm printing this Peon 230. What is the best controller I can get off Aliexpress? What else should I get?

>> No.1427239

>>1427235
Not to sound like a dick, but on top of the suggested components on the main Thingiverse page, theres also a few dozen successful combinations between the makes and comments.

>> No.1427241

>>1427239
Yeah but people usually buy stuff that is only sold in Germany or European Union, which is impossible to get in the third world

>> No.1427244
File: 29 KB, 351x391, 1404799862937.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1427244

Been toying around with the idea of picking up a FPV drone, just something simple I can stream video through to my phone and play around with after work.

Obviously I was looking at the X5C and some extra batteries, but I wouldn't mind spending a little more to get a nicer drone, or just something I can upgrade later on. I own a 3d printer with some pretty neat filaments like carbon fiber PLA, raptor PLA that can be annealed to be very strong, and of course PETG. I could probably print a decently strong frame - and if it breaks I just print another.

I think the biggest issue is that I don't have a remote, and that's what $50-100 by itself? Maybe I should just stick with the X5C for now, do the antennae mod, maybe design and print a lighter frame and then see how I feel about the hobby first?

>> No.1427438

>>1427241
Wat. Most of the stuff in this hobby is bought direct from China, the only reason people buy within Germany/EU is if they're either impatient or clueless.

>>1427244
3D printing miniquad frames is really only good for meme points. You can buy a good carbon fibre frame for $20-25 that won't break immediately & which won't fly like shit because unlike anything you print it is actually stiff.

>> No.1427608

>>1427244
as far as transmitters (remotes), i got a frsky taranis q x7 because it was the cheapest transmitter i found that was listed as supported on the opentx website. it is about $100 and widely recommended as a good first transmitter to buy

does anyone know of a cheaper transmitter that runs opentx?

>> No.1427663

>>1427438
I think I'm gonna pick up a X5C-1 when I get back from Metrocon assuming I don't spend too much money there. Also 5 or 6 extra batteries so I can fly for at least 30min. Probably like $60 or $70 total? Is there anything better I should be looking at in that price range? I read some stuff about motors burning out on these.

Yeah I was thinking about that when I saw how relatively cheap the carbon frames are, it's the electronics and transmitter that's expensive.

>>1427608
I saw that as well, but it's hard to justify spending $100 for only part of a starting hobby, perhaps when I've outgrown the X5C.

>> No.1427694

>>1427663
Ignore him.

Alot of people start out with Flysky, in fact the most popular FPV youtuber, UAVFutures, almost strictly uses a Flysky/Turnigy TX so its not like theyre bad. To be honest the Taranis is so popular because its the cheapest feature packed TX out there, on top of the fact it can be used for cars, fixed wings, helicopters, the works. So basically if you never plan on flying anything other than drones a Turnigy Evolution or Flysky TH9X will do just fine.

>> No.1427719

>>1427694
I mean the taranis really isn't that much more than the TH9X, and while the turnigy is decently cheaper, it's still 65 bux. I may as well just splurge the extra 40 and be one and done with the taranis.

Maybe by the time I decide to build a drone there will be a better deal on the market, so now I'll just rock El cheapo X5C-1 and crash it a bunch.

>> No.1427729
File: 27 KB, 400x262, Guillows-P-51-Mustang-Balsa-Flying-Model-Kit-116.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1427729

>>1419057 here, expanding more on my build. Im working on a Guillows kit 402 p51 mustang, 32" wingspan I believe, and I want to run it off nitro. I've done some more research and I believe I'll be going with the O.S. 15LA, but I want some more insight from experienced builders. About a .15 size is probably the biggest I can fit, but if there are other recommendations maybe something .2X sized could work?

Also, the frame is spec'ed for a .049 Cox, so would pushing a .15 (3X the displacement) be too harsh on the frame?

Last question, this incolves more theory, the P51 used a duct to cool its radiator and compress the heated air into thrust, I would like to incorporate a system like this that uses the exhaust to heat air that enters the bottom duct, Ill probably make a duct similar to the real P51 for this, along with a small trap door in the back. Would I run into any issues doing this? Most rc planes direct the exhaust away from the fuselage as quickly as they can, would this cause unwanted temp issues?
Thanks for the help!

PS could also use some cool livery ideas

>> No.1427749

>>1427719
Well.... No shit..

I guess I assumed you knew what the rest of the market was like when you said you didnt want to spend $100 on a TX. I dunno about you but when Im on a budget the $40 difference between a Taranis and an Evolution is 2 batteries or a set of spare motors.

>> No.1427755

>>1427694
ignore me? for what reason? i said the q x7 was the cheapest transmitter i was aware of that ran opentx and asked if anyone knew of a cheaper opentx transmitter.

>> No.1427757

>>1427755
Ignore that.

I had the idea in my head that someone was being told the only option worth buying for a TX is the taranis, re read and realized I misunderstood like an hour later.

>> No.1427760

>>1427757
gotcha. so do the flysky. turnigy, or any other cheaper transmitters run opentx or an open-source firmware? for me personally its an important consideration, i already made my purchase though, but just curious what if any other options there are

>> No.1427768

>>1427760
The Turnigy 9XR Pro supports it natively and the Flysky TH9X can support it if you swap out the board inside the TX.

>> No.1427800
File: 486 KB, 1200x800, DSC05885.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1427800

So I forgot that Ardupilot has pitch reversed compared to fucking literally everything else, so I'm now rebuilding it with new landing gear & antenna mounts that broke when it immediately crashed after getting airborne for the first time. Ardupilot devs confirmed biggest fucking trolls in the RC world.

I did want to replace the landing gear with something of a wider stance like this anyway, but I was planning to fly more than 10ft before doing it.

>>1427694
>the most popular FPV youtuber, UAVFutures, almost strictly uses a Flysky/Turnigy TX

He's a shameless shill who uses whatever he is paid to use or thinks he can rake in the most affiliate cash from.

>>1427719
The main reason why the Taranis is so commonly recommended to new pilots, even though it seems like a lot of money to them, is that once you have it you will literally never need nor want to replace it. Coupled with the fact that it's not actually that much more expensive than the alternatives, plus that FrSky's actual protocol performs better & that their range of receivers is far better than anybody elses', it really is false economy to buy anything else.

Essentially, you either want to go absolute budget & buy some $30 trash, or you want to pony up $115 for a Taranis - anything inbetween is pointless.

>> No.1427804

>>1427800
Funny, first time Ive seen the word shill on this board, I thought that was a /g/ thing.

Ive seen nothing really worth calling him a shill in any of the videos Ive watched. Sure he gets sent a shit load of free drones but he doesnt hype up garbage and recommend it just so Gearbest will keep sending him stuff. Hell hes even shown and denounced blatant flaws in quite a few of the drones hes reviewed, has a video of some shit Gearbest sent him on fire somewhere in there.

>> No.1427977

My Taranis and receiver seem binded. but the quad no fly. why it no fly?

>> No.1428201
File: 134 KB, 1080x1080, 36793993_2011563825529258_7575631670812868608_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1428201

Yo, assuming I don't do any drone racing, what else can I do with a "racing drone"? Turns out the peon 230 is supposed to be a racing drone and I just want it to drone around, not really race.

>>1427438
>You can buy a good carbon fibre frame for $20-25 that won't break immediately
There are some 3d printed quadcopters made for carbon fiber tubes, which are easier to get and replace

>> No.1428245

>>1428201
run as few battery cells as you can while still getting adequate performance. 2 or 3 cell instead of 4 cell, for longer flight times.

can you name some of these frames you speak of? I am intrigued. Do you know if any are really really small (for a sub 250g build)?

>> No.1428256
File: 574 KB, 1200x800, DSC05911.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1428256

Even though it's a combination of obsolete spare parts & the cheapest new parts I could find on banggood, I kinda like this one. At least until I try to fly it I guess.

>>1428201
The biggest issue with 3D printed frames is people designing them like a CNC'd carbon fibre frame, apparently without considering the fundamental differences between the two materials/techniques. That Peon 230 is the perfect example of this - even if you'd printed it in Alloy 910 those arms & plates are going to be substantially weaker than even the cheapest carbon fibre frame & even than injection moulded plastic/glass fibre frames (like the kind that HobbyKing are trying to get rid of their last stock of for literally £3.75 right now).

I'm not saying you absolutely couldn't 3D print a sort-of-okay miniquad frame, but that that style which mimics carbon plate designs is fundamentally bad.

>> No.1428259

>>1428256
Dude, everything is going to be weaker than the same shape in carbon fiber, kek. What kind of glass fibre do they use for frames? Something like garolite? I'm finishing a CNC router, I could probably make a fiber glass frame.

>> No.1428320
File: 559 KB, 1200x800, DSC05910.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1428320

>>1428259
>Dude, everything is going to be weaker than the same shape in carbon fiber, kek.

My point was that it's dumb to 3D print things the same shape as carbon fibre, you need to print in a shape that actually takes the strengths/weaknesses of the material into account.

>What kind of glass fibre do they use for frames?

No idea, sorry.

>> No.1428415
File: 43 KB, 640x478, IMG_8208.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1428415

>>1428320
I think Peon does, the parts are a lot thicker than the usual carbon fiber and injection molded parts.

However, it's actually possible to laminate glass GF-reinforced arms and glass fiber sheet "cores". How heavy is 110g for a quadcopter frame? That's how much my frame weights.

>> No.1428452

>>1428415
3" frames are easy to find under 30g, 4" around 40g, and 5" around 50g. Thats the extreme low end though

>> No.1428464

>>1428415
A modern 5" freestyle frame will be ~90g, while a 5" race frame will be ~60g. That's with all hardware.

>> No.1428554

>>1427977
Add in the mixer channels, check betaflight receiver tab, check your uarts

>> No.1428558

>buying flysky
Their transmitters arnt that bad but their receivers are totally shit

>> No.1428646

>>1428554
I am using LibrePilot. Ground Control Station never sees any receiver activity. The transmitter and receiver bind, but it seems receiver and FC aren't talking. I have a CC3D, trying to use PPM pin 8 + oneshot. Have a CPPM/Sbus FrSky XRS-M or something like that.

>> No.1428647

>>1428558
why does flysky and frsky have such similar names?

>> No.1428725

I need some feedback.

I am trying to make a cheapest possible build and the candidates I chose for TX-RX are,

TX: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-DYS-ELF-83mm-Micro-FPV-Quadcopter-Racing-RC-Drones-Spare-Part-2-4G-Remote-Controller/32827931349.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.e86719a33QvkIA&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10151_10065_10344_10130_10068_10324_10547_10342_10325_10546_10343_10340_10548_10341_10545_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307_10059_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_6,ppcSwitch_7&algo_expid=9dfa72de-4ef1-4973-a58f-0059dd070fc4-0&algo_pvid=9dfa72de-4ef1-4973-a58f-0059dd070fc4&transAbTest=ae803_1&priceBeautifyAB=0

and RX:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-4G-8CH-D8-Mini-FrSky-Compatible-Receiver-With-PWM-PPM-SBUS-Output/32803958204.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3e744c4dIu2uDG

The pairing is fails:

I will continue the procedure I followed in the post below.

(This is my first drone so no bully plz)

>> No.1428726

>>1428725
So I guess for pairing I have to press bind button on the receiver and then put transmitter in the bind mode.

I did this and the LED on the receiver was steady. As soon as I pressed bind on Transmitter, the LED turned off. So I guess the pairing is done.

Then I turned off both, turned the power on, on the drone. Then after turning on the Transmitter, it showed the signal for like half a second on the display and it vanished. The led on the transmitter stayed flashing.

Am I doing something wrong here?

>> No.1428752

>>1428726
Unless DYS is using the FrSky protocol, that transmitter will never talk to that receiver. Try putting the transmitter in bind mode first then hold the bind button on the receiver, then power the receiver.

>> No.1428833

>>1428752
That Elf transmitter uses FrSky D8 mode.

>>1428646
>Have a CPPM/Sbus FrSky XRS-M or something like that.

Well what is it, CPPM or sbus? Double check that you have the receiver protocol set correctly in GCS & that you have the correct UART selected. Also remember that the normal sbus output from FrSky receivers is 'inverted' & may require an additional step to make work with your FC.

>> No.1428855

>>1428833
>Well what is it, CPPM or sbus
I have been trying everything as PPM. Is CPPM and PPM compatible? Receiver is set to CPPM, and LibrePilot has everything set to PPM.

The receiver is only capable of CPPM and SBus; it can not do PWM. I have assumed the CC3D can not do SBus without inverting the signal, so I haven't bothered trying SBus.

I am using PPM Pin 8 with Oneshot in GCS. I tried Pin 3, and got some receiver PWM activity reported in GCS, but it did not correspond with movement of any sticks, it seemed like a periodic polling going on or something, but that was the only receiver activity I ever saw in GCS.

Also, generally keeping the receiver set to D16, but should I focus on trying D8? Haven't successfully bound yet in D8. Also, I had the receiver set to SBus for a while when I wanted PPM, did I possibly fry something? The SBus pin wasn't connected, only the CPPM pin was, so not sure if that would have been an issue

>> No.1428878

>>1428855
>Is CPPM and PPM compatible?

Different name for the same thing afaik, but I could be wrong.

>The SBus pin wasn't connected, only the CPPM pin was

They're the same pin on an XSR-M, no?

>> No.1428883

>>1428878
oops yep same pin. did i damage something?

>> No.1428934

>>1428883
No, it's just a signal/protocol.

>> No.1429045

>>1428934
Should I be using D16 on the transmitter when the FC is set to PPM?

>> No.1429055

>>1429045
D8/D16 is the protocol between the transmitter & receiver, it is completely separate to the protocol between the receiver & the flight controller.

>> No.1429056

>>1429055
Hmm, any idea what I should try next?
Receiver and transmitter bind fine in D16.
FC and motors communicate fine in Oneshot 125.

Just no evidence the receiver and FC are communicating, and certainly nothing from the transmitter is making it to the FC.

>> No.1429186

>>1429056
>>1429055
update, it works now. not too sure what did it. i changed the input range to 1000 to 2000. also set rudder to ch5 instead of ch4. also took ppm off one of the channels

>> No.1429201
File: 1.26 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20180719_194208.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1429201

>>1429186

>> No.1429203
File: 1.31 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20180719_195555.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1429203

>>1429201

>> No.1429475

>>1429201
>>1429203
nice, 3" or 4" size?

>> No.1429487

>>1429475
3". The frame I am using is a Diatone Blade 150. Diagonal is really like 162. Arms are available to make it a 180 and 200, to fit 4" and 5" props. Motors are old RMRC 1306, I think 3300kv

>> No.1429501

>>1429487
Those motors are good enough for 4" props

>> No.1429603

>>1429501
1306/3300kv would be a bit hot for 4" on 4S, but probably fine on 3S.

>> No.1429637

>>1429603
By my experience there is not much difference between 4s and 3s on 4", the extra weight of the 4s counters the extra power, the small props have not much static thrust so the end result is actually worse than 3s in flight time and turning speed.

>> No.1429659

>>1429603
>>1429637
i wont be running 4s much. i actually plan on using 2s quite a bit.

>> No.1429664

>>1429637
I meant in terms of whether the motors will overheat.

>> No.1429681

One thread away from falling off the board, so new thread

>>1429680
>>1429680
>>1429680