bought a new house

[op. No.1306353]

I posted this in the qtddtot but no responses more than a week later so here goes.
I just bought a house in florida and got the inspection report and it was mostly good. The inspector told me to invest in good house paint, something like a $200+ sherman williams breathable exterior paint or something. Said I'd need about 4 cans to do the whole 2700ish sqft house. Is this good advice or will i end up buying snakeoil? He seemed quite knowledgeable and helpful during the inspection but 1k to paint the house myself better get me god's gift to humanity quality paint. Looking around through google has a lot of conflicting info about whether or not to get breathable paint. Right now i think the house is covered in 14 yearold stucco.
Also what do about alluminum roofs? Roof needs replacing in about 5 years or sooner depending on hurricanes. They seem worth the investment and we specifically bought a house outside an hoa so we dont have to ask permission to exist for everything.
Theres also some occasional gaps in the laminated wood floorboards that i plan on touching up with clear caulk or epoxy maybe until its time to tear it all up and i get to put ceramic tile down throughout most of the house.

[Anonymous No.1306356]

>>1306353
Fellow Floridian home owner. One in Tampa one in Pensacola.

14 year old stucco, dont worry about "breathability". What you want is UV resistance. Powerwash the stucco and spray on some exterior paint from HD or Lowes.
Breathability is the new buzzword, apparently the paint needs to let the moisture out of wood or stucco, or else it will trap moisture and cause rot. THIS IS MARKETING BS.

Aluminum roofs: Yes. Asphalt shingles go to shit and get ripped off every time a squirrel farts in Florida. I put aluminum on my Pensacola place about 3 years ago. I had the roofers slap it right on top of the old shingles. The house is cooler in the summer and cheaper to heat in the winter now. It looks a little faded, so this spring I may slap a new coat of paint on it.

[Sage No.1306361]

>>1306353
Don't know about you Americans but in Sweden when painting plastered houses and or basements we use silicate paints that lets the moisture travel trough the walls. Silicate paints work both outside and inside.
>>1306356
>Breathability is the new buzzword, apparently the paint needs to let the moisture out of wood or stucco, or else it will trap moisture and cause rot. THIS IS MARKETING BS.
You don't know shit, read above.

[Anonymous No.1306365]

>>1306356
>you want is UV resistance. Powerwash the stucco and spray on some exterior paint from HD or Lowes.
>Breathability is the new buzzword,
Thanks for the input. The UV resistance does seem noteworthy. I think the point he was trying to make about breathability was that in the worst case scenario where you get cracks in the paint from wear and tear, your typical latex paint will just accumulate more and more water under the paint and form bubbles sort of forcing you to have to repaint sooner. He didnt say anything about rot except on these two gable like stuctures because the sides of the overhangs werent actually concrete block like the rest of the house and were instead just plywood or something. He recommended better gutters for that.
I do really like the idea of only having to repaint the aluminum every so often instead of having to replace the whole roof every 10-15 years. I heard the exposed fastners dont last though and to go with covered/clamped

[Anonymous No.1306369]

>>1306361
Heh, this is kinda what google searching was like. Half the people insisted on breathability and the rest said it was unnecessary and to get some latex or other "rubber glove" type paint. Thanks for the input anyway i guess.
Does anyone have an idea of the type of painy the inspector was talking about? Super expensive, super expandable/spreading, breathable and all that jazz. Most of the paints I've looked at are marketed as one or the other type of deal. Nothing quite seems to hit all the bases, but the again maybe i haven't looked around enough

[Anonymous No.1306370]

>>1306361
>we use silicate paints that lets the moisture travel trough the walls
Why? I see no benefit from having moisture traveling through a wall.
OP is in Florida, average humidity is somewhere between 98% and 100%. Moisture is the enemy in Florida.

[Sage No.1306371]

>>1306365
>your typical latex paint will just accumulate more and more water under the paint and form bubbles sort of forcing you to have to repaint sooner
Please don't tell me you seriously use latexbased paints on plastered facades.
>Using anything else but mineral-based paints on plaster. It's like you intent to fuck your shit up.

[Anonymous No.1306372]

Also heres a pic of some settlement cracks prior to me caulking them up. Just one of the many preparations to be done before painting

[Anonymous No.1306374]

>>1306371
I haven't done anything yet, im just asking questions and relaying what the home inspector suggested and his reasons why, oh and what i gleaned from google searches which i already stated were contradictory.

[Anonymous No.1306376]

>>1306370
What's so hard to see? You need to let moisture travel trough materials. Therefore you use paints that lets it travel trough it while at the same time protects the outside from the weather. Think of it like Gore-Tex clothing.
ignore my retarded phone autosages

[Anonymous No.1306379]

>>1306376
>You need to let moisture travel trough materials.
Not understanding this part. Why do you need to let moisture travel trough materials?

[Anonymous No.1306380]

>>1306379
If you use paint that does not let the moisture through it will cause the paint to flake and burst in order to let the moisture through. The many different climates that we have here in Sweden has taught us a lot about the reasons for letting moisture travel. The main reason is of course that you want the house to stay dry so that whatever materials e house is built of doesn't get damaged by accumulating moisture and water. You also have the problem with mold that comes with the water.
Heating your house is also essential for keeping moisture and mold out. It's just as important for keeping the house healthy. We always keep our heat on 24/7 during colder periods or days to never let the cold and wet inside.
Like Gore-Tex clothing. It lets the moisture from your sweat out so that you don't get all wet and cold, while at the same time prevents the cold and wet from the outside to get in.
If you prevent a house from "breathing" in our climates, you literally kill them.

[Anonymous No.1306382]

>>1306374
The best tip I can come up with is to actually make a call to some local painter firms and simply ask them what they would recommend for use or swing by your local paintstore where they sell professional paint to the different painter firms and companies and ask them for advice. Always invest in quality paint as its worth every penny but don't get sold the highest priced "self cleaning-ultra-deluxe" bullshit paint as its basically the exact same but with flashy names for making people like you waste cash.

[Anonymous No.1306391]

>>1306353
>exterior paint from HD or Lowes.
Please don't, Sherwin Williams Super paint. It's not for poorfags like this guy.

[op No.1306817]

>>1306391
Yea thats probably the only thing consistent between all of google and the home inspector, dont buy cheap paint - get the most you can afford

[Anonymous No.1306818]

>>1306353
>house inspector reccomends Sherwin Williams pro grade paint.
>nah fuck that, I'm gonna ask anon retards on four chins what they think instead..
you paid the man for his professional opinion. he gave you that opinion. why did you waste your thousand bucks if you arent going to believe the man? it isn't like he is trying to jew you, you ALREADY PAID HIM.

[op No.1306851]

>>1306818
He charged 300$. And just because hes a professional doesnt mean he is immune from memery, doctors peddle bullshit pushed on them from big pharma all the time. I mostly came and asked here because of how contradictory the information through googling was when i tried to look more into it myself. I didnt find exactly what he was talking about at Sherman William's website which prompted the googling.
Also how do i deal with scraped/scuffed laminate? Theres a plethora of info for scratches but these marks don't actually penetrate the laminate. Can i just buff it out with 1500 grit sandpaper or will that make it worse? I've tried washing it and its unchanged so its definitely damaged the surface of the laminate and not just dirty

[Anonymous No.1306861]

>>1306361
>>1306353
what you need to specify is your location. paint made for harsh desert conditions wont necessarily last in your swamp.

>settlement cracks
how's the drainage plumbing and gutters around the foundation?

>>1306382
they literally wont help. it depends on what they're painting over and your specific conditions. if you just ask a guy what paint to buy they will sell you whatever has the best profit margin or kickback.

and dont forget OP, you spend the smallest amount of time actually painting and the most amount of time prepping to paint. unless you intend to strip the existing paint and properly prepare it like you should, make sure you get paint that matches the existing paint. ie. dont go oil over latex.

[Anonymous No.1306863]

>>1306851
a good wash and wax will hide most scratches. i've moved out of so many shitty timber floor places here in australia to have housemates or real estates freak out while im tidying up then i just wash the floor and it looks like new again. people literally freak out about scratches in the wax.

[Anonymous No.1306867]

>>1306818
A home inspection is required. Thats money in the bank for him before he even starts.

[Anonymous No.1306870]

>>1306863
Good suggestion if it was wood.

Its laminate. Any deeper an you will start revealing the white/off white base material. Best bet for a temporary fix is to lightly buff it and then put a 50/50 mix of stain and acetone on it. Let it set until the acetone evaporates and then wash it with soap and water.
The acetone will soften the laminate enough for the stain to penetrate. It on works on small patches/scratches.

[Anonymous No.1306937]

>>1306861
Location is in first post, florida. No swamp, no desert, just hot powerful sun and lots of rain and humidity and hurricanes
The drainage on the back and sides is ok minus one or two small areas. The front gutters got decimated by hurricanes, either mathew or irma. Ill put up new front gutters soon as i can
>smallest amount of time actually painting and the most amount of time prepping to paint. unless you intend to strip the existing paint and properly prepare it like you should, make sure you get paint that matches the existing paint. ie. dont go oil over latex.
Ty i appreciate the input. I gathered that much from google already. Just working on narrowing down which paint to invest in

[op No.1306940]

>>1306863
>>1306870
I was thinking wax would help and ive already washed it pretty good. The previous owners diy'd the interior paint job or hired really shitty painters and theres a fair amount of tiny paint splatters to take care of all over the main living area and master bed room too. For some reason the other 3 bedrooms seem fine. So i have the acetone on hand already (and some plastic and metal paint scrapers) for that reason. I guess ill pick up some wax first and test that and try to find a matching stain next paycheck. Thanks for the input

[Anonymous No.1307057]

>>1306353
go with breathable paint ofc

[Bill No.1307057,1]

Bro, you have really huge house, I should say. Alluminium roof is nice, I have the same