/diy/ - Do It Yourself

i have 400$ to invest in a kit i want to print out 3d miniatures and walls for my DND dungeons can anyone recommend me one?

>>860855
http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/pegasus-8-kit.html

>>860815
That buyers guide is shit, need a decent kit guide.

>>860857
By all means post one then ...

I have this problem: one side of the print curls up. I think the problem is that fan blows only from one side. Can someone confirm this?
Would this kind of fan shroud solve the problem? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17768

What kind of fan? axial or blower?
I have a feeling that axial fan loose a lot of power if you put a shroud on it (especially if exit hole is much smaller than the fan effective area) and that blower fan can provide more pressure. Is that true?

>>861250
>>861250
I have the same issue on my ultimaker with PLA. I just installed a 120 mm fan that blows over the entire build surface. The surfaces on the fan side are flawless and on the other side layers tend to warp.

I'm planning to install another fan on the opposite side to deal with that issue.

>>861269
>>861250
typical sign of temperature too high, either the bed or the head

>>860856
I'm gonna buy this one. Why the fuck isn't it in the guide? It seems like the best budget one around and all of the "budget" ones in the guide are more expensive and so are the diy ones.

>>860874
There should be a /diy/ guide. Let's make one.

>>861374
>>860857
I agree. That guide doesn't even touch repraps.

I think this chart can be usefull: http://www.productchart.com/3d_printers/
It can give you some idea what to look for in set budget and desired print volume.

Would a 'Reprap Prusa i3 DIY 3d Printer kit' be a good start for a beginner? I've found one for £170 (265 USD ish).

hi guys got around 600$ for a Printer i dont care if its a kit or a preassembled one i want to print Model figures with it can you recommend one?

>>861416
Did you even look at any of the posts in this thread before you asked that?

I'm thinking about buying my first Kit, and this one got my attention, what do you think about it?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/151767800672
Pros and cons of having a delta
I read about it being faster, and cheaper to build, being the programming and electronics the tricky part.
It might also be more fragile, but possibly cheaper as it might be built I a way that requires less materials.
But I'm no expert

>>860855
FDM printers don't have the resolution for making miniatures. Even if the "layer height" is 0.1mm, the nozzle actually more like 0.3mm or 0.4mm wide. And it can't just print a perfect dot, it has to print enough material to be able to pull away and leave it deposited. If you want to print miniatures, you would be better served by a SLA printer.

>>861487
I'm printing a 40k miniature as I type to test how well it prints. Its less detailed than the model its based on but still haz gubbins. I can already tell those arent printing clearly, but as a base to latter add bits too, its certainly shaping up.

>>861487
What this annon said.

My question is, how the hell do I make rafts separate? It seems they're always stuck to the part. Without them, I get curving at the corners, with them my entire lower surface gets fucked. My understanding is they're just supposed to peel away.

>>861476
The biggest hardship of having a Delta is tuning it.
On a cartesian printer, you can get away with things being off to a degree.

Delta its much much more important.

Its going to be a better printer than a cheap I3 kit.

>>861492
if you are having curling issues and your rafts are too tough means there is a problem in your calibration.

>>861500
Where do you reckon my problem could be? Where could I begin troubleshooting?
rafts aren't thick. They're actually quite thin and very attached to the part.

>>861517
Z height and/or extruder E steps

>>861517
Z steps and/or E steps
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide

>>861542
thank you so much. I;ll try out tomorrow.

>>861449
yes i have informed myself but im still interested in your choice of 3d printers for this purpose(printing 40k miniatures)
my budget is around 600$ and i want to get the best value for my $$$$

>>861407
Yep, Post a link. That price seems a bit too low.

>>861638
There aren't any printers you can get for $600 that will reliably print minatures. With the work you'd have to put into cleaning, sanding, and smoothing the figures, you're better off hand sculpting the thing from scratch. There are severe limitations on the shapes you can print and you won't be happy with the detail you get.

If you really want, you could diy a SLA printer of questionable quality because FDM is not the way to go.

>>861642
I think they are talking about this kit. I mentioned it and someone suggested I get http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/pegasus-8-kit.html instead, which I think isn't a bad idea.

Hi there I have a 3d printer project going on.
If u are interested check this out: https://hackaday.io/project/7247-next-generation-of-3d-printing
and give some feedback

>>861657
What makes it "next level"?

How can you improve print quality with shit tier components?

Are you really going to rewrite Marlin?

Otherwise, keep going. Looks fine so far.

>>861642
>>861654
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-High-Quality-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3d-Printer-kit-with-2-Roll-Filament/32424257787.html
Thanks, I was on about this one, but the link you provided is on par with what I was on about. I plan on taking it to university (for the course AI and computer science) to create custom robot parts for my raspberry pi. In addition, to create little hobbyist drone parts and general house stuff.
I'm more than happy to have a flatpacked one and build it up myself. From what I've read this would do good for what I'm after.

>>861499
Thank you :) i'll buy it tonight
I will post my opinion after i get it in 1 month

>>861651
i dont plan on reselling these im planning on using them for my dnd games to save some serious money instead of buying some miniatures for 500$ i can print unlimited ammounts of walls castles and dungeons for the same ammount of money.
keep in mind they dont need to be perfect i would love to see some 3d printed models with different printers anyone knows some picture references?
also i have read that acetone soothing can do wonders anyone has some experience with this?

>>861491
mind giving us a picture update and information on wich printer and wich filament you use?

Quick question: Which one is the best glue stick? What do you use? Do you apply it once or multiple coatings?
I need it for ABS.

>>861761
I used Avery, Roseart, and Elmers purple.

I prefer Elmers myself, its easy to see and clean.
The other two worked ok, but it just wasnt as nice.

Have you tried ABS juice?
Its just dissolved ABS in Acetone and you apply to the bed and it works good

>>861787
Thanks.
I will see if I can find it here .(They sell mostly UHU and Pritt glue here.)

I tried with very old UHU stick glue that I had at home and I got mixed results. Prints with small bottom area didn't stick well, Prints with big bottom area get stuck too much. I printed once short, wide cylinder and was absolute nightmare to get it off.

I hate when I'm in the middle of a tear down and i have to wait on shipping. I basically end up loosing interest for a few weeks.

All i can say is that while deltas need more love, I think the results are nicer.

>>861842
"loosing"

>>861824
Usually I lay down two layers of Elmer's purple glue on the glass. A set of strips going horizontal, and another over that going vertical, making sure there are no gaps between the glue I lay down. I then give it a few minutes to dry before starting my first print. Probably not necessary but it's just something I do. All of my prints stuck quite well, both large and small.
If you're having problems with parts sticking too well try cooling the plate down a bit a couple minutes after the print finishes.
I usually wait until the glass plate is cool enough to handle, but still somewhat warm/hot. I then remove it from the machine and place it somewhere cool.
If I'm in a hurry I'll sometimes stick it in the fridge.
The glass will contract faster than the plastic does, loosening the print enough for you to take it off by hand with little effort. Sometimes the piece will pop off entirely. I've done this for many large prints with consistent results.

>>861842
>tfw havent printed anything in over 2 months now

Was having extruder issues and pulled shit apart, and its just been sitting there.

>>861740
No problem. I'll.post pics after work today. And it came out really well in my opinion. I was right about it not quite having the Fidelity to pickup the rivets and such but I have an aegis defense line base printed. And it looks pretty great for something that cost two hours instead of whatever that kit costs today.

I'm using a printrbot 1405 makers kit.
I printed it in pla with .09mm layerheight and I think a shell of .06. I tend to print everything at .12mm now because it seems to really like that setting for my printer.

>>861416
>>861638
>>861717
For those who would like to print figurines: This is 45mm high model printed with 0.5mm nozzle and 0.1mm layer height. It was printed with a lot of support and took almost 4 hours. But have in mind, that this model of a person would be like 70mm tall if standing up. So in my opinion anything smaller would be extremly hard to print.
But if you are thinking about printing big dragons, trolls, giants, hauses and other biger objects for DnD, tanks and buildings for 40k, then I think you should do it.
Here is an example for a tank: https://youtu.be/ih4nCP9JH3Y?t=2m31s
I really like the look of those tanks, even though you can see the layers and imperfections.
It would be also interesting to use some special filaments, like woodfill for object that are supposed to be made from wood, like wooden carriage or boat, ...

>>861950
>here is an example for a tank
>that guy's arm

Good lord what the fuck?

>>861950

That looks like a moldy piece of cheese... what is the purpose of that low res garbage?

>>861919
what was the issue? I'm just doing my first rewire and i fell victim to add on creep >>861842

>>861963
I am guessing that you don't like moldy cheese.
It probably looks like that because of yellowish light.
There is no special purpose, I just wanted to see how it would print. If you have any advice how to get better prints, please share with us.
I would also like to see pics of what you consider to be High res prints.

>>861962
This is what happens if you masturbate.

>>861966
Prusa i3, gregs/wade extruder.

Was getting odd uneven extrusions, turns out my big main gear is not printed well enough.

>adjusting the small gear to meet the big gear
>problem spot about the size of 1/4 of big gear
>either it runs perfect for 3/4 of gear and binds on 1/4
>or it runs perfect 1/4 and then the other 3/4 is sloppy, the transition to and from the 1/4 problem spot causes weird abnormalities in print

I was trying to do my Esteps, and getting different results if I measured it 2-3 times in a row.

My original extruder printed parts were so awful, that they broke on me a long time ago.

I pulled it apart to put it back into a Bowden setup with an Airtripper I have laying around. I just stopped halfway through and havent gotten around to doing it again.

>>861963
Taking high resolution pics of prints make them look way shittier than they actually look IRL.

>>861991
If you're having tight spots between your gears, you could heat them up and spin them through till they're smooth all the way through.

>>861994
I was having issues like this
>>861250

Looking at it, Its not quite a tight spot. Its printed way out of spec where my print fan wasnt directly hitting it.

I will just run it in bowden and not have to worry about it.

>>861950
Why does his arm look like a parasite is living in it?

I'm about to pull the trigger on this. Is there anything I might need aside from this or anything that would be handy to have an extra of? I plan to print out extras of any plastic parts the printer has as soon as I get the thing dialed in.

I know I need glass, blue tape, and binder clips. I've got tons of lube because I've been speedcubing for about a decade. Any quality of life components/accessories you wish you had when you first started?

>>862035
Long tweezers (helps when grabbing bits of extruded plastic off the hot end), a flat paint scraper (razor blade style, helps gets parts off the plate when you eventually move from blue tape to glue stick), a machinist's level (handy but pricey, just about any small level will do), standard tools like a multimeter, soldering iron, etc., extra stepper drivers (shit happens). I'm sure there's more ...

>>862035
I pretty much bought things on an as needed basis, because there are so many things you can break you cant really keep a backup of them all

Maybe buy 1 roll of PLA and 1 roll of ABS, and once you run through both you can decide which you prefer.

>>862065
On second thought, you should buy some airtight containers from walmart to store your filament. And some desiccant so you dont get moisture in the plastic.

And the first thing you should print is a filament scrubber/ dust filter.

>>862061
>>862066
Alright, thanks. I hadn't even thought of dust being a problem. Neither did I think about proper storage for the filament. I've got a good trunk I'll store it in.

I'll pick up an extra stepper motor for it. I've got basic electrician tools and some calipers but I hadn't thought about a leveler or paint scraper.

>>862070
An extra stepper motor or two is a good idea, but I meant the little stepper driver boards that plug into the ramps (see http://reprap.org/wiki/Stepper_motor_driver).). A4988 is the most common and they're cheap enough that having an extra set (say 4 or 5) on hand beats having to wait on one coming by way of the slow boat from China when one punks out on you. I've yet to have a stepper motor fail on me but I've cooked several of the driver boards.

>>862086
Hah, they're 5 for $9 on ebay incl shipping. I'll grab a bag of those.

I guess a motor might be a bit much, but they're cheap so I might as well. I plan on building a robot with it so it couldn't hurt to have a stepper motor to play with either.

>>861476
ok, made mind, i'm going to buy it

>>862095
Ive thought about buying a chinese delta kit as a second printer.

It seems to be pretty good bang for buck, its hard to build it on your own fro cheaper it seems. Good baseline for upgrades

>>861950
That's not too bad for FDM. I mean it's not great, but at least it isn't an unrecognizable pile of derp.

It looks like one of the more decent attempts.

Experimenting with bronzefill. This far everything seems to ok.

>>862283
Intothethrash.jpg

>>862290

>>862283
>>862290
>>862291
What happend here? What went wrong?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4blAdS6r3Q

ShillBrothers shilling for the shitty robo3d

>>862546
Is Robo3d still around?

They were straight garbage when they came out.

>>862553
They still are. All the retards that bought them praise them, even though they had to replace all the stepper motors, smooth + threaded rods and fans

>>862546
>works with filament
>which is a type of plastic

>>862563
>muh guns!

>>862546
>SLA printers use UV and lasers to melt nylon and PLA into stackable layers

>>862581
Fuck I should have watched the whole thing for that gem

>>860815
Hey /diy/,
I'd like to make a 3D printer with some spare printer parts I ripped apart.
>inb4 o not this again
Alright, sounds bad, I know. Been here a bit, I get the worry about the clueless. But, I've got two scan beds, one with a stepper, one with a brushed DC motor and a rotary sensor.
Now, the trick comes with the Z axis. I've effectively two linear actuators from the print heads, and a couple of those flat stepper motors. The heads use a strip of film with lines on them to detect their position with an optical sensor. They use brushed DC motors too. I lost the board that had the optical sensor for one, but I have a spare sensor board I could rig up. I was thinking about using one as a dummy and the other to drive it up and down, but I don't know how accurate I can get it, if I can get it to read at all, since unlike the bed with the sensor, it doesn't have a gearbox. Trying to run both would difficult to get them to sync, and using the spare servos would be difficult since they have gears that have been magic'd onto them, and I don't have any extra belt pulleys. i could order a couple though.
And one more thing: how would I go about running the optical sensor motor? I'd like to use RAMPS to save time, but I'm not sure how I'd get it to run the motor correctly. Has someone done something like this?

>>862310
if thats PLA i'd guess printed way too fast

>>862814
Its bronzefill
Its PLA based though

Maybe it clogged up because of the nature of those filaments.

For those who are using an Airtripper, whats the fastest mm/s you have pushed it?

Is there any home-tier 3D printers which can print with highly thermal resistant polymers(like 300 Celsius melting point polymers)?

>>863023
An all metal hotend like the E3DV6 can reach over 400C
You can put that on literally any reprap, its case by case on prebuilts (lots are reprap based anyways).

Im pretty ignorant on what higher end premium filaments that are actually out there though.

A new try with bronzefill.

Almost there.

>>863012
airtripper is shit. can only do default slic3r speeds @0.35mm nozzle. anything faster does not work.

nothing beats a wade herringbone extruder

>>863026
the temperature sensor used to get the temperature reading only goes towards 285/290°C and breaks after that. especially the e3d one mentions that limit

>>863088
Yes, the stock thermistor is only rated to 300c
Filastruder sells thermalcouple that push it over 400c though, its actually the main selling point of the regular v6 vs the v6 lite.

>>863023
Polycarbonate prints at ~280-300 ºC and nylon ~260 ºC, but you start to see thermal decomposition of pretty much all organic compounds <~250 ºC. I myself print structural ABS parts at 255ºC using an all metal hotend as I find it's much stronger/less prone to delamination when printed at higher temps. If you try, make sure you have good ventilation plz (dem fumez).
>>863092
>>863088
You can buy a k-type thermocouple board that interfaces easily with arduino/ramps electronics, and it's supported in Marlin. It's ~$10-20 for the board and ~$3-10 for a thermocouple.

>>863187
Sorry, that should be >~250 ºC

>>861542
>>861500
I still haven't found the issue for my rafts, could be my slicing software.

However, I did find the issue with the curling. The fan that cools off the extrusion had been knocked and was only cooling the area ~15mm to the right of the extruder nozzle. I'm printing a gasket model and thus far have no curling/peeling.

Anyone have good guides on ways to join pieces? I would much rather design objects to be joined than use acetone. Are there any good guides on ways to design joints for 3d printing? I know very little aside from simple dovetail joints.

>>863606
super glue if PLA. Plastic cement if ABS

>>863608
You didn't even read my comment. I want to design things to be joined. I don't want to play with glue. Someone else will know what I mean.

>>863610
The only plastic-plastic joints that are commonly used are pin and hole and tabs that click in place. Just think of everyday items. Most plastics parts are held together by screws and sometimes glue.

>>863616
Yes, and it would be nice to have a guide on best practices. I've never designed objects from scratch and I'm not sure how I could split it into pieces. I thought perhaps someone may have researched which joins work best in which circumstances. I'm sure they can be scaled up and down, but to what extent when 3d printers are limited to certain plastics and tolerances? I don't know these things. I'm digging through google to find what I can right now and I suppose I'll do some research of my own if I can't find what I want.

I did learn this...

http://www.google.com/patents/US20140074274

How the fuck can people patent such simple things just because software is doing it? I could patent the process of making a sandwich if I wrote a program to do it.

I did find the beginning of what I'd like.

http://eikimartinson.com/engineering/3dparts/

Too bad it isn't much of a list. I really just want a catalog of different designs to browse though so I know what to keep in mind when designing large objects.

>>863621
You owe me one beer.
http://www.3dsystems.com/company/datafiles/SLS_Guide.pdf

>>863630
This is laser sintering, not extrusion printing. The two processes have very different limitations. Also the guide doesn't talk about joining pieces, just considerations in overall design. Would bellows even work with ABS or PLA? Thanks for the try.

>>863632
Oh sorry, posted the wrong one. I can't find the one I was supposed to post.

>>862035

>I've got tons of lube because I've been speedcubing for about a decade

is that what the kids call it nowadays

>>862546

>so 3d printing has a load of pros and cons

>the bad is that people have made guns with this technology that even work

the kikebros, sponsored by senator feinstein

>>863621
I don't think round pins and holes would print very well so that they are held together by friction. Aim for polygonal pins and holes and arrange them so that they print parallel to the layers to prevent the risk of delamination weakening the joint.

>>863760
I actually went digging and found a bit on just that.

http://makezine.com/magazine/tips-3d-printing-press-fit-parts/

They suggest octagons work best and offer several other designs.

I haven't really designed in plastic so I haven't been thinking the right way. I'm going to have to experiment a lot and compile what I find works best. I found some documents on snap joints which are also useful.

http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/S62.12/people/vernelle.noel/Plastic_Snap_fit_design.pdf

That pdf gave me a good bit to think on. I just want to know all of the different ways of joining things so I know what to use in which instances when slicing things.

What would be the best way to join two rods together that meet end to end? Or say they're rectangular and part of a frame or bezel that I want to print that is too long? Perhaps something that is also stable with torsion as well. An internal rectangular ball lock? I really don't even know what terms to use. I'm just looking for material that gives me more perspective.

First for peachy printer.

>>861950
Late but those tanks really could look better if they had taken an acetone bath

On an unrelated note what should I set the acceleration to for a Prusa printer? My Y axis is skipping steps and it is either the potentiometer or the acceleration.

>>860815
This is going to sound stupid, but where do I get screws? Ebay has some assortments but for $100+ it's rather ridiculous. Where do you guys get your metric screws and bolts?

>>863925
Hardware store. Someplace not owned by Lowes or Home Depot is your best bet.

>>863938
ebay/amazon is cheaper

>>863925
I got most of mine off of a site called Mr. Metric. Home Depot was a little limited in stock of metric screws.

>>863925
Maybe McMaster-Carr?

>>863925
I have trouble finding certain sizes, but in general I can get a lot of mini metric sizes at Menards hardware store (regional), and there are a few locally owned Aces or TrueValues. Some have them some dont.

>>863773
Have they shipped yet?

>>863721
You can make a better gun in practically any hardware store with less than $20, so the gun thing is kind of a moot point.

>>863925

I keep turning up Zoro Tools when I search for fasteners on eBay. Stocked up on a shitton of fasteners from them because they sell them in bulk for pretty cheap. Admittedly, buying hundreds at a time isn't really practical for a 1-off project, but if you go through them a lot, it's great to almost trivialize the cost of the fasteners that way.

That fucking $5-shipping-gets-waved-on-orders-over-$50 works on me almost every god damn time, though...

>>864102
Ive seen Zoro Tools website when I was looking at certain hand tools.
They seem to have really good prices, but ive never ordered from them. Their prices were so low on certain things (and absurdly high on others) I was afraid they might not be legit.

I am having trouble with my prints. There doesn't seem to be enough filling and the entire structure is too thin, especially the section on the right.

>>864268
Damn boy, got enough glue on that bed?

Its looks like its underextruding, and id guess your Z moves up a layer starting on the right side every time? Its retracting to go a layer up and then is extracting too slow, by the time it hits the other side its extracting better?

If its a new problem and you were extruding properly before, you may have a partial clog.
Or maybe you accidentally changed the extrusion multiplier in your slicer or something?

>>864160
>Their prices were so low on certain things (and absurdly high on others) I was afraid they might not be legit.

Yeah, a lot of hardware places seem to be like that. McMaster-Carr, for example, is known to be expensive in general. But I couldn't find a particular size of thrust bearing cheaper anywhere else.

Zoro's pretty consistent on low prices for fasteners, consumables, and general bits-and-bobs stuff, but there's a few things in there that are/were so expensive I swear they had the price entered wrong. I seem to recall a...bolt? Screw? Maybe a gasket? Something along those lines, wasn't extraordinary in any regard (be it size, material, complexity, purpose, or construction) and the listed price was over $1,000.

The one thing that really bugs me about them though is that nylon fasteners aren't denoted in listing titles. You have to check the details to know they're nylon. Bit me in the ass last time because I accidentally bought some 1/4"-20 bolts that turned out to be nylon. Coulda swore I made sure I was looking at the plain steel ones but I guess not.

Would ABS be a good plastic to print a butplug out of, or wold PLA be better for that sort of thing? I figure that the biggest deal would be the smoothness of the finished product rather than the material it's made out of.

>>864293
I just went digging around there and it seemed a bit obvious what's made out of plastic. Between the listing names or the fact that it's sold by a place with plastic in the name.

I found this place that sells a few assortments of hardware for what seems like decent prices. I'm considering buying the metric kit. It would cost a whole lot to get 100 packs of each size just for hobby projects.

>>864320
>no sex toy talks

... Ill quickly say that these filaments are porous and would harbor some real fucking nasty bacteria. PLA is closer to being "foodsafe" than abs is, but it soaks up moisture a lot more too. Could possibly leach nasty stuff. If you insist on printing one, wrap it.

>>861654
I have this kit.

Its fine now save for a bit of z wobble, BUT should anyone want to buy one here are a few things I encountered:

The 5v from the arduino clone crapped out on me, had to remove a diode on ramps (D1 I think) and splice in a new 5v, I used a USB wall charger. This solved missed steps causing x and y axis drift.

ADC on that duino also seems to be shit. Either that or BOTH the thermistors are bad. I calibrated with an external thermometer, and am compensating with print settings, which seems to be working fine.

The belts loosened constantly for about a a month. After a month of retensioning they finally seem to be stable.

Other than that I'm happy with it, especially for the price. I need to spend some time figuring out z wobble (hopefully I can just straighten out the nuts or something), maybe I should just upgrade to leadscrews.

>>864386
Are those not lead screws for the z axis?
You can remove oscillation in them by using a [I forget the proper name for them] but they're just two flange nuts with a spring between them.
>>864059
I just found out that my new apartment will be in walking distance from a menards. This will be fun.

>>864274
Not a new problem, breaking the printer in right now

It may be Z hops, but I will need to make sure I am extruding enough or check for a clog

>>864323
Forgot link...

http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/908.html

>>864475
>http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/908.html

If you're looking for a specific range of fasteners for some particular application like that helicopter thing, kits aren't necessarily a bad idea, IF you only really need them for that odd "I just need one or two of this screw" moment.

The problem is that you tend to pay a significant premium for them. For reference, the stuff I got off Zoro was between $2-5 for a pack of 100. That means for 500 pieces, you're looking at like $25 in bigger packs. Not only that, but nearly half the pieces in that kit are washers, which are much cheaper than screws.

I also don't like the fact that you don't get very many of them. Depending on what you're doing (especially if you're making something from scratch), it's extremely easy to go through two dozen screws or more without even realizing it.

If you're repairing or working around stuff made by someone else, you're kinda screwed. What fasteners they used vs. what you have on-hand is pretty much luck of the draw unless you've spent loads of cash stocking up on loads of different kinds and lengths of fastener. If you're making stuff yourself, however, you're gonna wanna just kind of make a de-facto standard out of 3 or 4 thread sizes, then get some different lengths of those sizes.

My work, for example, tends to be sized such that 6-32, 8-32, 10-24, and 1/4-20 covers just about everything, so I grabbed packs in two or three lengths of each, plus washers, nuts, and taps to match.

(I also have a significant number of M3, M4, M5, and M6 bolts because I needed them for a few specific uses and it's really not cost-effective in the US to buy small quantities of metric fasteners, but what can you do?)


Tl;dr: Building your own stuff? Just buy packs of what you need as you go along, try to stick with sizes you already have if it makes sense. Building other peoples' stuff? Pay extra for a kit and hope you don't need too many of any one size.

>>864475

Also, for the record, the listing that got me was http://www.ebay.com/itm/381020540059?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT..

It specifies in the details, but not the title, and obviously the image is just a generic mechanical drawing. Admittedly kinda my fault (I can only figure I had a couple tabs open for 1/4-20 screws and closed the wrong one[s]), but still, would be nice if it said "NYLON" instead of "Std" or something.

>>864503
I haven't touched rc really. I'm only just getting into it now. I think when I do figure things out I'll settle on a few specific pieces of hardware for most of my fastener needs. I figured a large kit would be useful starting out so I can get a feel for what I want to use and then I'll just stock up on those specific parts. It seemed like a good thought for a newbie.

I'm going to be 3d printing the things I'll use hardware with, so I can alter anything to suit whatever hardware.

A lot of the motors and things I'm looking at come with bits of hardware so I have no clue what size things are at the moment. If I order from zoro it'll add another month on top of whatever I am doing once I get some parts and find out what I'm starting with. A metric kit is like $60 and it seemed to have a decent spread. At least that'll keep me going for now while I put things I intend to use on order for the coming months.

>>864504
Ah, I see. I browsed zoro's website. I suppose you've got to pay attention the material things are made from if you want to be sure. I am always checking things like that but I suppose if it was just one item of many things you're ordering it could be easy to overlook. Frustrating.

Is FDM viable for printing gears and other mechanical projects?

A friend of mine recommended a MakerFarm, however my budget goes a little higher than that ($700). Is the MakerFarm really the best I can do?

Thanks.

>>864579
Depends on what exactly you are trying to do with it, a dialed printer can print some mechanical stuff

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9uHey8INAQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWg-hRxq3Q0

And to be fair, one of the most popular reprap extruder has a big and small printed gear running it.

>>864589
The print in the pic looks very nice. The print in the first video seems to be VERY smooth, no lines on it. How is that? Is it just the video compression?

Would you say a prusa i3 could achieve prints like these?

is the uDelta any good, how are delta printers in general, it seems like they are pretty uncommon amongst 3dpg posters - i'm looking to get my first printer and deltas really appeal because i'm not super endowed with desk space

>>864632
Haven't had direct experience with deltas but that one looks very top heavy which could lead to wobbling issues compounded with the fact that it's being held up precariously by 6 smooth rods instead of more rigid v slot rails. It also appears to lack a heated bed.

>>864630
Its all about the resolution of your print, an i3 can certainly printer at resolutions an ultimaker can (what he used in the video)

Having a good hotend with a thinner nozzle helps quality in high resolutions too.

And the lines are still there, just very thin and harder to see (also depends on color of filament)

>>864632
If you're spending this much on a 3d printer, couldn't you afford a tiny bit more furniture to accommodate it?

There's a delta owner that posts in these threads. I wouldn't want to use one because it isn't as prevalent a design, so issues might not be worked out as quickly/as well.

>>864632
Delta owner here. Deltas are not any better or worse than others. They are a different beast, but i personally find the mechanics behind them more fun/interesting. Like any printer design, you get out what you put in. and like most printers, if you can learn to print well, you can print better parts so there is less work to achieving reliably consistent prints.

My friend is a car guy and we liken it to Wankel vs piston. both function decently but have their own flaws and features.

As for the printer you posted, im somewhat on >>864647 side in that it's top heavy, but if you keep speeds low its not really an issue. It should be noted that having all the weight in the bottom isn't a cure all either. In that case, they tend to act like retarded tuning forks, so tightening and rigidity are key.

>>864747
> liken it to Wankel vs piston

Print him some new Apex seals!

>>864758
Just get some iron fill and print a new wankel

>>864747
Rotaries are for doing wheelies in a car

Is this for real? $240 + free delivery? anyone knows this store?
https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/diy-kit/reprap-prusa-xi3

I kind of want to buy one, because it's so cheap, but on the other hand it could be a waste of money. What you think?

>>864843
I can't tell if those are lead screws. If they are, then sure. just make sure after having the calibration you print yourself a set of spare parts. Also, it might be in your best interest to get a fan mounted to cool the extrusion. 5~8mm acrylic is best in these frames.
One thing worth noting, is some of these printers end up working solely from the SD card. I just assembled on of these and I can't get it to work with the usb cable, but works fine using the sd card.

>>864900

>>864900
The lead screw ones dont have couplers, its probably just cheap threaded rod

>>864843
It will lay plastic and build objects.
You will be at the mercy of how decent your particular parts are.

The hotend will definitely need replaced, but otherwise its just a standard old acrylic I3. The acrylic frame is not desirable, but it doubles the price of the printer to be better material.

>>864917
Sure they do, the steppers with threaded rods build in are kinda expensive

>>864900
You can't connect with Repetier-Host/Cura or you also can't connect with Arduino IDE?
Can you update/change firmware using SD card?
What brand is your printer? Is it acrylic frame? Did you brake/crack anything?
I think chinese paper is giving you a hint that you have to make a review of your printer.


>>864900
>>864917
What dou you mean with cheap threaded rod and lead screws? Regular thread like bolts (M6, M8 or whatever Americans use) or Trapezoidal thread (metric or ACME) or Ballscrew?

>>864939
Talking about the Z axis
standard i3 plans call for an M5 threaded rod (some people go for m8), but some of the chinese kits come with trapezoid leadscrews

Obvious the lead screws are more desirable, even though threaded rods function just fine

>>864939
threaded rod is what you'd find on the end of a screw.
Lead screws are used mostly, to my knowledge, for cnc machines. They tend to be more precise, efficient, and will generally allow less vibration. i.e. they provide much finer control.
Downside is they may be a bit more expensive.
>>864900
I like it much more than the robo printer some coworkers bought for the office. And it cost $300 delivered with two kilos of PLA.
The issues so far:
-Y axis belt pulley holder got pretty rough after a week of quite constant use. I printed it again at 100% infill alligning the layers for better strength. The part broke off in my hand as I swapped it out.

-x carriage capacitive sensor holder had to be modified to fit properly.

-came with an SD card containing 'drivers' and 'software' that I simply cannot trust.

- USB connection is useless. From what I gather, everyone suggests fake ftdi, but it may be just corrupted firmware. I'm too lazy to reinstall marlin and figure out every little set up value.

-m3 nuts and bolts could have been m4 on the frame itself. Thread locking compound is a must after everything is checked.

-main menu has a freakin typo. it says 'printar' instead of printer.

>>864965
Besides all that, it does everything I wanted it to do. The good:
-I haven't done much high quality models, but it does go down to 40µm layer height and prints very smoothly.

-Auto bed leveling.

-lead screws for z axis

-brass insert for the lead screws.

-all metal gears on the stepper motors.

>>864920
that's a lead screw.

>>864976
I obviously mistyped
The point was you could get a lead screw and couple it to a regular stepper.

Most of the time they are built into the stepper for higher tolerances

>>864978
and i too had a a bit of an intracranial defecation. You are completely correct >>864920 in your image.

>>864951
>>864965
>>864968
Thanks a lot.

>>864968
>all metal gears on the stepper motors
What do you mean with that? Drive gear for filament and pulleys or something else?

>>864900
>all of this equipment
>eats off of the floor like a dog

>>864991
All gears. The direct drive extruder is PLA, though. It'll soon go on a shelf once I change it out for a bowden type and v6 chinese clone.
>>864992
I had a coffee table but it belongs to the printer now. I kept those floors clean.

>>864998
The printer is obviously on the floor, not a coffee table. You have a turbocharger just sitting on a shelf, but you can't afford a used piece of furniture or something?

>>864999
>interior designers on /diy/

>>864998
>v6 chinese clone.

why would you do that when the V6 lite exists?
King of cheap hotends

>>865001
>not eating off the floor
>interior design

>>865004
Itll keep his immune system strong

>>864999
>used furniture
>not assembling Ikea with a Masters

>>864999
alright, trips mom. I'm an animal. I assembled the printer on the floor, got hungry, and had food delivered to eat as I continued working on it.
I'm a college student with messed up priorities. I don't use a kitchen table therefore I haven't bothered buying one and have instead put those $20 towards something I do use. I often eat walking, at work, standing, at my desk, or on the kitchen counter.
How does that turbo relate to where I eat?
>>865003
I thought about it, but how upgrade able is the lite6? figured I might just buy the e3d v6 when I build a larger printer later this year.

>>865019
iirc you can change the heat break and the heatsink to regular V6 ones and itll then be a "full metal" V6

I dont think thatd be worth it though.
The lite prints ABS and especially PLA easier than the full version. The all metal heat break and melt zone makes it more finicky than PTFE tubing.

>>865024
The main goal it to print polycarbonate and nylon by the end of the year. I was going to buy the Chinese one tonight, but I'll hold off on that and think about it. It certainly seems better to go original here.

Posting since the faggots on /g/ only give a shit about select kinds of technology

>>865188
What am I looking at? Can you describe it a bit more?

>>865194
My 3D printer back from customer service. My Up Plus 2

>>865188
Hahaha, I saw you try to make a 3d printing general in /g/

/g/ just isn't the place for devices/gadgets that actually do something. They just want to argue over phones and desktops.

>>865188
Do you have a dust filter on your filament?

how and why did you guys get into 3d printing? more interested on the why. i could easily buy a printer now and have a few things i want to make, but after that i think i would run out of ideas... does that happen? do you see your involvement turning into a business idea at all?

>>865211
You can use them to learn. There are an infinite number of things you could make with one.

>>865200
Yea its become clear to me now. For a board about TECHNOLOGY, all they do is PC's and smart phones. Shame really, because 3D printing is an amazing technology
>>865202
I do, but I had to remove it for the time being because the new spool of filament I bought doesnt fit on the spindle

>>865215
Print a spindle adapter.

>>865211
I had cash to burn
And I love building shit
And I love buying stuff

Putting together the kit was really fun.
I dont print stuff all that often though.

>>865227
sounds exactly like me.. right now i gotta prioritize the cash to burn on 3 things: pilot lessons, 3d printer, and an electric bicycle i'm building.. and alcohol/bars with friends

>>865230
>>865227
what printer did you buy?

>>865231
diytechshop i3X
Was the first ~$500 I3 printer kit on the market, so I said fuck it and bought one. Makerfarms were like 850$ at the time.

They went out of business when people started buying chinese acrylic kits last year.

>>865232
>I3 printer kit
so if i was looking into getting one to build and dick around with (of reasonable quality), would a newer I3 kit be a good idea?

http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-kit-with-lcd.html

>>865236
Most reprap kits will do you just fine to tinker and play with, whether its an i3 or a delta or something else.

This kit right here is best bang for buck ive seen
http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/pegasus-8-kit.html

The Genuine i3 kit looks to be all quality though.

>>865211
Electronics guy here.
Nothing can describe the joy of not having to look around for the right coupler for a motor, a mount, a standoff for a pcb, a case, buttons, a gear to do something with those otherwise useless motors, or just about anything mechanical to a project customized to my needs and 'shipped' overnight for about $.47 worth of electricity. Therefore instead of buying a table on which to eat takeout I bought the i3 kit. and it's marvelous.

>>865242
>Therefore instead of buying a table on which to eat takeout I bought the i3 kit

lol

Also are you printing directly onto aluminum?
I have an aluminum bed now and could never seem to get it to adhere well. Ive been use blue tape

>>865246
see
>>>/wsg/735251
For the first few prints I used a kapton sheet... until it got fucked by a calibration cube that even left it's mark on the aluminum. From there on, hairspray on a heated bed works very well. It accumulates and gets better coating until it gets too disgusting and has to be cleaned off.
Just be careful of anything that might turn the spray into a flamethrower.
Another thing, besides the autobed leveling I leveled mine using feeler gauges, and have determined down to ~.05mm the sensing distance of the shitty capacitive sensor in mine. The few times I've had detachment have been due to a tiny string from the skirt wrecking havock on the first layer, hence me fucking around with the pick.

What is the best buy for 1500€ ??? (This must also include tax and shipping.) I prefer stores from Europe.
I want to buy good quality and reliable 3D printer. It needs heated bed and auto bed leveling if possible. It can also be a kit, but without soldering if possible.

-- Genuine i3 from Josef Prusa (kit): 675€; - no auto bed leveling (But I could buy 2 for my budget)
-- Printrbot Simple metal: 800-900€ (kit or assembled); - heated bed only up to 80°C, - small build area
-- Printrbot Plus: 1600€; -a bit over budget, - heated bed only up to 80°C
-- LulzBot Mini: 1450€; - small build area, - needs a computer to print (doesn't have SD card slot)
-- Felix 3.1 Kit: 1450€; - heated bed only up to 95°C
-- SeeMeCNC Rostock Max v2: 1250€; - Requires soldering
-- 4x Cheap i3 Prusa: One of them will probably work

For those printer that are under budget, I was also thinking about buying a cheap i3 prusa to play with. But at first I need a reliable 3d printer that will be always ready to print.

So, which one to choose?

>>865467
check the buyers guide in the OP. Most people don't have more that one or two printers.

>>865467
>But at first I need a reliable 3d printer that will be always ready to print

Id get a lulzbot mini, ultimaker 2 GO, M2 or some other prebuilt higher end printer.

Small build area is really not that big of a deal

>>865479
In the buyers guide are only Printrbot simple metal and Rostock max.

I know that nobody has all those printers at home. I just thought someone would have some experience with one of those printers and would share pros and cons with us. (Like he did: >>864965 >>864968 )

Of course you can recommend other printers that are within the budget, I just listed those that I know.

best prusa i3 kit for $300 or less?

8x8x8 at least...

>>865733
nonexistent

You will need to spend more.

>>865737

not true they are on ebay

>>865733
any reason this one wouldn't be good?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261913184719?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

>>865741
The opinion I've gotten from here is that acrylic ones aren't very good, and that the hardware that comes with those will leave you wanting to upgrade in the future and it will cost you more in the long run.

>>865741
Its fine
The steppers are weak and iffy and the hotend is shitty, but it will be fine starting out.

You can always replace a blown stepper, and good hotends are getting cheaper.

For those of us without a 3D printer, what 3D printing services would you guys recommend?

Shapeways is obviously the most famous, but are there others?

>>865748
This too, while its an ok printer the acrylic frame is not desirable and its not a printer youll want to dump a ton of money into in the long run

The Folgertech Kossel kits frame on the other hand is something that is decent enough to just upgrade the shit out of.

>>865752
>the new Rev. B folgertech kossel kits replaced printed corners with aluminum corners and they changed the 36t pulleys to a 20t pulley

Nice, I wish I had the money to buy a second printer

this is a titanium is a titanium ptint from i.materialise in belgium. they are excellent to deal with but seem to have a monopoly on ti. i finished it, stepping was considerably worse than their dmls stainless, which was excellent

>>865826
I like that setting, it reminds me of final fantasy.

>>865751
There are also Sculpteo and Ponoko, but I never used them, so I can't say if they are any good.
There is also 3D Hubs. Here you can find printers in your area.

>>865751
Shapeways is way overpriced. They do good quality prints in all types of materials, but a single small doodad could easily cost the same as an entire spool of filament. It's not really worth it unless you need some kind of high end product that's perfect.

What is the frame of the Ultimaker 2 made of?

>>866160
Lazer cut Dibond sheets which is just a hard plastic sandwiches in aluminum

Ive seen it used in I3 frames before. I would think it takes moisture and heat better than the UM1 plywood frame

>>865890
Thanks for the 3D hubs recommendation.

Have you used them before?

The prices are far below what Shapeways and Sculpteo offer.

What is the best size for the MakerFarm i3v? Some people say it's the 10". Also, would it be possible to upgrade to a metal frame later down the road?

I want to buy a folger tech 2020 aluminum frame prusa i3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231572342806?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=530808848388&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The build plate looks a lot smaller than what could fit in the frame, do you think I could just slap a larger one in without making any other hardware changes and just change my slicer settings to the bigger bed size?

>>866237
>I could just slap a larger one in without making any other hardware changes and just change my slicer settings to the bigger bed size?

Yes you can.
there really doesnt look like there is much more movement for the X axis left and right though.

Its about how much movement your Nozzle has, you could probably print out a smaller X carriage to mount your hotend on for a little more movement.

Not sure how cost effective or worth it, that it would be

>>866231
>would it be possible to upgrade to a metal frame later down the road?

Yeah, but it would require a lot of new parts being printed as most of the plywood parts arent standard for a standard frame. Ive heard the frames are pretty stout and dont need fooled with though.

And as for best size?

Its up to you and what you plan on printing. I have never used my full bed or wanted to print real huge parts. I have a standard 200x200 MK2 heated print bed which is what the 8in one would have

>>866253
>Yeah, but it would require a lot of new parts being printed as most of the plywood parts arent standard for a standard frame. Ive heard the frames are pretty stout and dont need fooled with though.
I'm just worried about warping. It's pretty moist here in Seattle.

>Its up to you and what you plan on printing. I have never used my full bed or wanted to print real huge parts. I have a standard 200x200 MK2 heated print bed which is what the 8in one would have
I would guess that the bigger the model is the more prone to flexing and wobbling it is?

>>866255
>I would guess that the bigger the model is the more prone to flexing and wobbling it is?

Makes sense, but it is a boxed frame so maybe the extra weight helps. The i3 design in general doesnt like super fast speeds, i cant see there being a huge difference between the 3 at a normal acceptable speed.

Has anyone ever 3D printed with a carbon fiber filament before?

What are the mechanical properties like?

I want to make a part that will be used to pull back a spring load and I'm debating between machining it myself out of acetal or having it 3D printed since it's small and I can get it printed for around $10.

I ordered a thing.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA36D2SA8170

Will post with results, when it arrives from chinaland.

>>866333
Also, would 3D printing even be appropriate for something like that?

The part will be under a lot of mechanical stress since it will slide around on a rail a lot while pulling back the spring as part of a gearbox.

I want to print a new external body for an airsoft gun. What material should I use?

I was thinking ABS since previous 3D printed airsoft projects like

http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printable-Airsoft-Gun/step1/PRINTING/
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:461896

used it, but there are many new filaments out now. I was considering things like PET or PETG (what's the difference?), or polycarbonate.

Is there a good desktop manufacturing news site specifically about reprap/diy/opensource? 3dnews have too much shit i'm not really interestded in and too much "hurr revolutionary durr disruptive" kind of hyping.

>>866428

Given the same dimensions, a part machined from a solid piece of acetal will most likely be stronger than a 3d printed part.

hey /diy/ guess what just came today.

>>866717
Was it a new pair of socks?

>>866730
Maybe I couda teased the unboxing a little, but I've never been big on patients, especially while there is more set up work to do.

>>866771
I was just being cheeky. You said to guess. Here, guess what came in the mail for me today.

My i3 prusa kit is still in the mail, boo.

>>866717
Welp, bad news. I started leveling the bed, and one of the motors started making a god awfull grinding noise. I killed the power, and figured out the problem pretty quick. One of the stopper switches seems to be missing the actual switch... I pulled it out, and it doesn't seem to be broken off, it's just missing. I guess I will just look up the part number on the chip and see if I can find a replacement.

>>866785
Can you call flashforge up and ask for a replacement?

>>866801
actually, once I started assembling/connecting stuff in the other boxes, and cleaning up the packing stuff, I found the little metal switch that was supposed to be there on the floor. I set it back into the switch, and it seems to work fine, but I still don't understand how something like that could have come loose.

It's also pretty unlikely that i might get any support from their main site.. I bought my printer through amazon, because the Flashforge site requires an account to buy there, and the only payment they accept is via paypal.. At the time it seemed like a better idea, but in hind sight, their main customer service and warranty apply only to things purchased through their site. Also, I have noticed some differences between the model I have, and the "typical" FF Creator Pro that would suggest it's a more cheaply produced model that has been licensed by some cheap ass Chinese company.

I think the moral of the story here is get your shit straight from the source. I'm sure I can make this shit work with a little /diy/ magic, but it would have been a lot easier and such to get it right from the source and have a guaranteed warranty

>>866717
What made you decide on the creator pro?

I need your advice /DIY/

>Using ABS
>ABS temp @ 240celsius
>2-3 first layers come out good
>hot end stops extruding
>try different filaments (even ones that have worked before)
>try cleaning the extruder super well

No luck

What could be wrong? My printer has printed good before this.

>>867139
I don't trust myself or reprap stuff enough to drop a lot of money on it. And the creator pro is the best value in duel-extruders, resolution, and good print volume. I saw one or two other slightly cheaper duel-extruders with bigger build volumes, but they have some really mixxed reviews. Creator pro has pretty good reviews across the board. for this ammount of money, I'm not going to gamble on something with bad reviews.

Can anyone help me diagnose my shitty quality prints?

Pic related. Sorry about the potato editing skills.

bq Prusa i3.
PLA @ 185C
0.4mm hot end on a glass with glue bed (not heated)

As you can see the layer stacking is a little shitty and I'm having real trouble with the overhangs.

using Slic3r and a calibration set @ 2x scale from thingiverse.

>>867241
>try different filaments (even ones that have worked before)

You weren't exactly clear. Did those different filaments work? If they did then the ABS that's failing to print might have had its properties/dimensions changed due to exposure to the elements, such as humidity and sunlight, which can lead to hiccups and jams during printing.
If the other filaments don't work then it might be a mechanical problem. For that you'll have to tell us exactly what kind of printer you're using.

>>867324
Increase belt tension or adjust stepper driver current.

>>867347
Interesting, I thought my belt tension might be too high.

also
>tfw bank holiday in UK and left my DMM at work 150 miles away.

Fuck.

Thanks for the help.

>>867355
The belt needs to be tight enough so that the pulley gear doesn't skip teeth or have slack. If you think it's tight enough already (it should be fairly taught with a little give), it's probably your steppers.

>>867324
overextrusion and possibly too hot

>>867241
remove the nozzle and hit it with a torch to remove clog if no clog try tightening the feeder tensioner

>>867359
I actually just checked my X-axis tension and it was quite slack, I kinda ghetto rigged the tensioner last time so I think it may have slipped.

I hope the next run goes better because I have no way to measure my stepper current at the moment.
>>867362
Why do you think overextrusion?
Also, I thought 185C was pretty ok for PLA.

>>867365
not all filaments the same and a few degrees can make a big difference

>>867394
>>867365
>>867362
>>867359
>>867347


Nevermind.

Snapped the shitty ABS printed belt tensioner.

top kek.

I guess I'm back to wanking as a hobby for a while.

>>867402
Forgot the image.

>>867403
I'm not exactly sure what kind of stress that particular part is under since I don't have your printer, but was that part oriented properly when printed? That looks like an inevitable failure.

Also you might be able to Jerry rig something long enough to print a new one. I used hair pins once when a belt holder snapped.

>>867411
>>867403
Or glue it. Super thick ABS juice works in a pinch.

>>867411
It was oriented correctly.

It looks to me like a pure tensile failure of the printed part.

For context, this is the horizontal x axis tensioner for a prusa i3 variant.

The bearing for the belt is held in place by a m3 bolt that screws into the nut you see there.
A long m5 bolt runs through the end of the u shaped bit to tighten via nuts and a washer on the outside of the smooth rod bearing assembly.

No way I'm in a position to print a new one. I'll take the stl file to a shop (worst case).


>>867412
I may try drilling some holes, putting some steel rods through and securing with araldite. I've used araldite to stick motorcycle parts together again, should work.


Breakers gonna brake!

>>864589
>triangular gear teeth

>>867436
Herringbone gears are nice

>>867444
yeah but the teeth are triangular. this is horribly inefficient. I bet all those people saying 3D printed gears are shit were just not drawing them properly.

>>867447
Well its pretty much become the standard.
The straight gears were also triangular, but started to have a ton of backlash when they start wearing.
The backlash problem went away with the herringbone gears, they seem to last twice as long.

Draw up some better ones and throw it on thingiverse. You are bound to get people to print and test them

>>867416
weld it with a lighter

what do you guys think about that new method where it pulls a resin out in the shape you wanted instead of laying several layers over time

>>867489
Once I find a good DLP Projector im going to make one

>>867489
>>867495
https://youtu.be/GJnoSPgJtE4?t=138

>>867501
nevermind, apparently linking at a certain time doesn't work, and i picked a shitty video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3TgmvV2ElQ

>>867502
I don't like how new SLA and delta machines always advertise themselves as inventing new methods of printing. SLA isn't a new technology, it's just expensive and very professional so plebs don't know about it.

>>867508
it's actually new, just similar to other techniques

>>867511
The formlabs form 1 prints exactly the same way.

>>867516
i've got a big form for you :(
i didn't know that

>>867489
Pretty decent. Haven't found a way to copy their oxigen deadzone.
>>867495
Can confirm the Acer H6510BD is pretty good. No need to modify anything unless you want better resolutions than 0.1mm per Pixel.
>>867508
>>867516
Bullshit. The Form one as well as other bottom-up SLAs print a layer and then seperate it from the vat floor while this one uses the fact that oxigen inhibits resin curing allowing for one continous pull. Yes it's not a completly new printer type but a nice improvement in bottom-up SLAs and if I find an easy way to do the same I will switch back to bottom-up.

>>867412
>>867411
>>867470

Used some Araldite, soldered in some 1mm gauge steel wire as staples/sutures.

Fits nicely. Hopefully it will hold.

>>867402
>>867412

It's not ABS, they a made of PLA.

I'd recommend araldite, or superglue and printing the part again

Just built myself one of these, was quite an easy build other than a few tolerance issues, This "Aluminum" heatbed is about 5 times too heavy to be ali and has upwards warp in the middle, so i presume i need to upgrade to glass, and it has a few issues with the linear bearing quality, but other than that seems quite nice for the price, anyone have any experience with it?

TLDR; Just got Geeetech prusa i3 X kit, anyone have experience with it?

>>867662
From what ive seen the aluminum beds are flat enough for 3d printing, less than 1/4 mil out of flat.
You can lap the aluminum beds with 400 grit on a piece of glass if you need it perfectly flat though.

>>867664
Not that guy, but my aluminum bed from eBay is 0.1 mm lower in the middle than the corners.
I never even thought of lapping it, may try it out

>>867672
Yea i played with 3d printing a bit, ultimately i dont care for it, it did lots to my reprap to make it as accurate as possible. but i feel they are a waste of materials. Neat for prototyping and basic fit, but i can do that in solid works just as good if not better.

In the end i sold my printer to a friend, then built a laser cutter, and am working on a 4'x4' cnc router, cant make everything a 3d printer can but it can make shit that i can actually use.

>>867683
You're stupid and your laser cutter is stupid.

>>867747
>hostility in /3dpg/

>>867683
>causing hostility by saying that someones hobby sucks

Could we not?

>>867241
I fixed it
>hot end and cold end not perfectly aligned

>>867403
first thing you should have done was print yourself a set of spare parts.
Also, what moron printed that thing with the layers perpendicular to the tension?

>>866372 here, kit just arrived. DHL is an extremely fast parcel service, especially considering I was quoted a 15 day wait. I've started assembly, and of course there's no instructions included, so I'll bumble through it and see what happens.

>>868290
Check the sd card that came with it.

>>868290
I'm jelly. I ordered my printer 2 weeks ago and it still hasn't arrived. I'm beginning to think it wasn't sent.

I'm different, though, because I've read through the build guide like 4 times now. I'm going to put that thing together quick when it finally gets here.

>>868402 see, you say that, and then shit like this happens.

>>868392 I've looked for it but it seems to be missing. I've found a site with instructions close enough to this model, and common sense makes up the difference.

>>868407
Ball head hex keys are pretty cheap

>>868409
Another solution would be to remove the other bolt to access it, then reinstall it.

>>868409 God, I know. My last set walked off somewhere and I haven't needed one for awhile. Got an excuse to go to the hardware store tomorrow, I guess.

>>868411 That's what I'm gonna end up doing. I've learned a few things about this kit so far, I'll probably end up making a guide for it at some point.

>>868407
>>868427
I have a kossel too, shit is a pain to take apart so try to do it right the first time. If your carriage has those stupid tabs to hold the belts, they're prone to snap. I use thingiverse.com/thing:627955 myself.

>>868203
Good point. I should have done it right away..

I was trying to improve the quality before I did that though.

Then i hit snap city.


Its holding, I'll print a new part at 90 degrees next week when i have a chance.

>>868517
That's 90 degrees rotation. Not celsius by the way.

Having problems with my prints

Could this be the fault of an extruder than is clogged or mounted on wobbly? I don't think that I am underextruding as the steps per mm is set at 7000, but I could be wrong.

My Prusa i3v kit arrived in the mail today. Lucky me, they decided to make my kit extra difficult to build by having erroneous instructions and by including fewer parts than are necessary to complete it. Yay for having to wait til tomorrow to go to the hardware store.

>>868824
Call and complain to Makerfarm, their customer service is supposed to be top notch and should send new parts right away.

>>868802
It could be a clogged nozzle, or a poorly built hotend. You could also be crushing your filament by tightening your extruder too hard

Is your stepper motor missing steps?

The only way to tell if you are under extruding is to set it correctly
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>>868802
Looks like your hotend temp is too low

>>867403


just did my first print on my folger tech 2020 prusa i3

.2mm , 50% print speed 80%infill speed

>>868840
It's mostly some missing bolts. I think they substituted a part in my kit and used a smaller bag than I needed. I'm going to drive to the hardware store in the morning. I want to keep working on it, not wait on the mail. I think that's all that was missing. The build instructions are terrible though. They didn't even proofread them.

>>868846
mmm Cheez-its.

>>868824
Flash Forge Fag here. It happens. I spent a bit extra on a pre-built printer because i didnt want to deal with the headache of building my own shit. My fucking out of box shit arrived fucked up. I had to fix my Y axis endstop, disassemble and alter a piece of the extruder head, and trim the filament feeder tubes a bit. Also, it I didn't come with a single bit of documentation or instructions. If i have learned one thing in the few days I Have had a printer, it's that 3d printers are always more work that you expect.


On that note, I just installed a glass bed kit. I havn't been able to print a god damn thing on it. I have tried hair spray, I have tried smearing the glass with acetone and ABS. I'm not sure what else to try.how many of you guys have glass bed kits, and what do you do to make them work?

>>868901
What temp is your bed?

>>868906
I kept the same settings of 110° for ABS.I feel like It might need to be bumped up a bit because of the thicker print bed, but it seems to be getting no adhesion at all.

Does someone know when the rigidbot kits will be available again?

>>868901
buy a sheet of pei on amazon, it works amazingly

>>868901
What exactly is happening, why won't it print?
Are you saying there is bed adhesion problems?

>>868840
Probably a clog then. There is some plastic that has built up around the tip of the nozzle, so I will screw it off and give it an acetone bath.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=867WFzs76DQ

Youtube kind of fucked up the video stabilization.

The test program is 200mm/s at 2,500mm/s^2. The servos are rated 2m/s and 5m/s^2 but if I go anywhere near that speed they start sliding all over the table.

I just need a frame now.

>>869115
dat mouse pad... also pretty slow i expected to see it go at at least 500mm/s or more. that way they only have the advantage of a closed loop system, nothing else.

or do you plan to print at sub nano scale?

>>868943
Disregard, I am a retard. The nozzles were just spitting out a pube-hair of filament, and not building anything up. I figured it was adhesion problems, but I guess I mis-calibrated the bed leveling, and somehow that clogged the nozzle.

I think I might try to reprint some of the kit parts i made whenever I get my active cooling fan wired in, and use some of the other noob shit I learned since I printed the other shit out.

Bump

3dp first timer here.
while setting up the electronics for our prusa i3 rework we encountered a strange problem.
firstly: motors are all confirmed 100% working, as are the DRV8825 driverboards.
still 2 axis (E and X) just wouldn't go - we checked every connection, everything was fine. not knowing what else it could be we plugged one of the "bad" motors into another axis and it works. my conclusion is it can only be the sockets on the ramps board?! did we miss something? sorry for bad english.

>>871368
Do you have access to a multimeter? If so, check the traces for those two motors and drivers and also to the pins that connect to the arduino. There could be a bad solder joint somewhere. But because Ramps is basically just a pinout board for the arduino, there may be a problem with your firmware or arduino itself.

>>871368
people connect them backwards. or short the pins. or generally just fry the board. 10/10 times user error and you buy a new board because you put it in backwards.

>>871372
>>871376
thanks for your replies.
I have now greatly simplified my test setup. for firmware i use "ramps14testCode" from the reprap wiki which just moves all axis back and forth.
now the only time i get movement with what is in the picture. if i hop the motor and driver along the other sockets it just stiffens up but doesn't move (meaning it gets current but probably no STEP signal from the arduino). how can i confirm if my arduino is working properly? (it is a cheap sainsmart one and i don't have an oscilloscope)

>>871377
OK i figured it out. in case anyone wonders it was the dodgy connection between chink RAMPS and chink Arduino...

>>871382
I like how they're suddenly chink ramps when it's your fault the headers weren't seated properly.

Hey /3dpg/, I'm looking around, but does anyone have any suggestions for a good dual extruder printer?

>>871995
see
>>861398

Wtf is going on with this? I'm having difficulties.

I've got layer height set at 200mm and flow rate down to 65% in cura and it's building layers so thick it's scraping the nozzle through them. The extruder is also chewing up the filament it's trying to feed it so quickly.

I checked the filament and it's bang on 1.75mm at every place I checked it.

What am I doing wrong?

>>872077
200mm layer height?
Do you mean 0.2mm?

>>872079
Um, yeah, not thinking. It's .2

>>872080
What did you set your Esteps for the extruder at?

Its clearly spitting out way more plastic than it should.
Follow this and itll slow it down. Set your flow to 100 before you do it, maybe even half your Esteps before starting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>>872081
Thanks a bunch. I had to lower it all the way to 60. It seems low. I'm getting a nice looking test print so far with it set this low. Looks like I need to level the bed and lower the nozzle a bit more, but I actually have a working extruder now!

I put together this bed with some borosilicate glass, some 468MP tape and a sheet of thin PEI. Good adhesion with absolutely no prep. It's neat.

>>872099
First print is done. I think I have everything dialed in pretty well. It's stuck to the bed to the point where I feel like I'm going to break it if I pull hard enough to remove it. I'll have to wait for it to cool.

Neat that I went from no knowledge of 3d printing to here in just three weeks lurking 3dpg

>>872116
That looks pretty decent for a first print

How do you get the first layer of bridge "strands" (>40mm) to adhere together? I'm extruding at 15mm/s and they come out perfectly straight and cool properly. But because they don't stick together, the infill that comes on top of that pushes that layer down and there is lots of drooping.

I've played with the bridge flow rate and haven't been getting consistent results.

A cool (but italian) 3D Printing Youtube Channel

I got problems, /3dpg/. I a print fail to what seemed to be a clogged extruder head. When I I removed them to clear them out, I was looking at something like this. One of my nozzles sheered off in the hot end. You guys think there is any way of salvaging it, or do I just need to bite the bullet and replace the hot end and the nozzle?

>>871569
they were seated properly (flush). i had to reseat them and this time only push down halfway and then jerk around until every pin made contact.

>>872599
Head over to harbor freight and buy some screw extractors. Grab a vice too if you don't have one.

noob need an advice.
never use a 3D printer but got experience in RC kit cars.
just to try some cheap printer.
what you think cause with euro it's low and coul worth the try.

this one cause cheap

this one? with auto calib cause i'm lazy
http://fr.aliexpress.com/store/product/100-brand-new-Upgraded-Quality-High-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3d-Printer-kit-P802-with/1797783_32353835052.html

first one:
http://fr.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-High-Quality-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3d-Printer-kit-with-2-Roll-Filament/1797783_32424257787.html

>>872760
>>872762
Electronics 75
steppers 60
Frame 50-100
Smooth and threaded rods 100
two Kg's of PLA 40

I'd be a little vary about this cheap kits. Of course it might be that they have surplus of crappy prusas and considering the price it is a good starting point for you even though it might be utter shit.

Does anyone remember the person who was 3d printing his own invisilign braces? Hoping to something similar myself.

>>872799
thanks for advice. you're right. maybe too cheap a a lot a problems and spare add to make it works.
see this kit in France: http://www.boulanger.com/ref/9000036233
looks like better quality even if it's looks "light" bit more expensive but better to start with i think. what you think?
thanks again for help.

>>872116
I think I got my printer done. I'm only concerned with the ripple near the bottom layers but I guess it's just a matter of leveling the nozzle properly. My bed bows in the middle a bit so I don't think it'll be possible to get it perfect until I build another and it'll cost over $40 to build a better bed the way I want so I'm not going to bother with it for now.

I figured I'd make a picture to show you what my process was.

>>872999
Oh, forgot to mention, I upgraded my marlin firmware because I wanted to have the ability to save changes to settings on it and I completely forgot to write down my settings so I sort of winged it on google. That's why I was set back on the second print.

>>872999
Glow in the dark Lenin approves of you progress. The octopus, however, demands more.

>>872999
good progression in quality. There's a small part of me that enjoys the cube calibration process. cube after cube, until you finely get to the tolerances you want.

>>873064
Well if you enjoy calibration, maybe you can give me a hand. Sorry to post so many times, but I'm not sure where else to get help atm.

The initial layers after switching to cura are hair thin, as in, I can see through them, they're so thin. Then it seems like it's overextruding for the next few layers.

I've noticed my bed bows a little bit in the center when it is heated. It's glass + PEI like I mentioned in >>872099. I raised the nozzle up so there's plenty of clearance even in the center and it's still fucked. Any clue on how to fix the settings? I thought I had the nozzle height dialed in properly so I was safe to move on. Hopefully it's just a problem in my settings or something.

>>873324
Go through the calibration guide on the reprap wiki. What's happening is that you're over extruding because your extrusion width is too low compared to your nozzle diameter.

How is it possible that the layer thickness can be smaller than the nozzle diameter?

>>873532
The same reason that you can smear a thin layer of toothpaste on your bathroom counter out of the tube.

>>873532
A layer thickness bigger than the nozzle diameter is problematic. Think about it.

>>867139
>>867291

not that guy, but I purchased a creator pro. I liked the metal frame, dual extruders, and the firmware seemed to be closer to open source than many others. They also had parts available.

I purchased it though amazon prime and got the free shipping.

I ended up modifying the printer with a glass bed by adding a 1/4" spacer where the z limit hit the bed and just clamping the 1/4" borosilicate glass in place.