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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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830836 No.830836 [Reply] [Original]

Ill start what is this and whats its value?

>> No.830837

Finally, my time to shine. It's a Brown & Sharpe bestest test indicator kit. I can't tell for sure buy the potato quality picture but it looks like a .0080" travel model 599-7033-x graduated in .00005". Worth about 2 50$ brand new. Used depends on the ebay/cl market. If it's a .008" graduated in .0001" then its worth less.

>> No.830838

>>830836
>>830837
ARE YOU FUCKING SORRY?

>> No.830839

>>830836
>Ill start what is this and whats its value?
It's a gauge. Quite useful but still not worth much if anything unless it has a current certification for it. Very useful if you have a milling machine or lathe.

>> No.830841

>>830836
Is it a well known and reputable brand (L. S. Starrett, Brown & Sharpe, Lufkin, etc)? up to 70% of its original MSRP (accounting for inflation if its super old).
Is it a no-name or little known brand? up to 40% of its original MSRP.
Missing parts? 20% of its original MSRP. Maybe less. Maybe much less if parts can't be supplied.
Chinese, Taiwanese or other non-Japan Asian origin? Worthless.

>> No.830842

>>830838
Sorry for what?

>> No.830859

Bump

>> No.830860

Is it some kind of sin to use different styles of screws in a single project? I accidentally bought some torx/star bit screws and I like them way better than the philips screws I had been using, but I'm too far along in the project to go back and switch them all out, can I just start using the torx and be fine? I'm not going to be taking it apart anytime soon anyways

>> No.830861

>>830859
Your question has been answered. Don't bump.

>> No.830864

>>830860
Its sloppy but not uncommon with amateur stuff. Don't do it if this is your job or something.

>> No.830865

>>830860
If it's for something only you'll ever work on again, no, you're fine. If it's something you plan on selling or pawning on someone else, you should be flogged.

>> No.830867

>>830864
>>830865
No its just a hobby project, but I guess if I'm the only person who's going to work on it I'll be fine (even then I doubt I'll ever take it apart unless I move)

>> No.830932

>>830861
See subject of thread its not a thread for me

>> No.830934

>>830932
We already have one. Check the catalog next time.
>>827849

>> No.830937

>>830934
I dont have catalog im on mobile atm ill look better next time

>> No.830985

>>830937
You get the catalog on mobile now.

>> No.831093
File: 2 KB, 196x214, D.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
831093

I'm looking for the proper name for a D-shaft pulley/gear. I have a microwave motor with a D-shaft and need a pulley/gear for it. But, I'm finding trouble even searching because evidently that isn't the proper name.

>>830934
>We already have one.
>SQT

What does SQT stand for? I just searched the catalog for a "QTDDTOT" and couldn't find a single thread with that.

>> No.831095

>>831093
stupid question thread

>> No.831097

>>831095
SQT isn't even a thing you can google, but "QTDDTOT" comes up with proper results. Also, who debases themselves to saying they are asking stupid questions?

>> No.831099

>>831097
Fuck if I know, I didn't make the thread. That doesn't change the fact that its a dupe thread.

>> No.831265
File: 44 KB, 400x500, 1435196605163.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
831265

Is there a name for this type of glass/plastic/whatever material this might be?

>> No.831266

>>831265
Acrylic sheet

>> No.831269

>>831265
>>831266
Acrylic, possibly Lexan/polycarbonate. Acrylic is cheaper, but weaker.

>> No.831273

>>831266
>>831269

Thank you for the answer. I assume it's safe to say I could go and get a power drill and recipriocal saw and cut this material to shape myself?

Seeing the picture I'm tempted to try and make a case for a 10' monitor I have lying around, possibly make it big enough to mount a speaker on it as well.

>> No.831274

>>831273
>I assume it's safe to say I could go and get a power drill and recipriocal saw and cut this material to shape myself?
Yes, however I would use a circular saw instead of reciprocating saw as you would get a cleaner cut, the tools used in plastic fabricating are basically the same tools that are used in woodworking, hell you could even use a band saw. Just be aware that acrylic is weaker as >>831269 said, ie. it's more fragile and prone to cracking, where as polycarb is quite durable and thus is easier to work with.

>> No.831276

>>830836
Im an EE student but want to get into cnc machining. nothing fancy just want to make my own custom heatsinks. Can someone point me in a direction of what software to get started on.
As i understand you need a 3d modeler than another program that will convert that into the gcode that the mill will use for directions. So i need two programs?

>> No.831278

>>831276
I don't know much about cnc machining, however Probotix have a great resource about cnc's and softwares. http://www.probotix.com/cnc_software/

>> No.831287
File: 3 KB, 196x214, 1435170735551.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
831287

>>831093
Get one with a round hole and a set-screw for locking in position.
The set-screw will force the shaft to the far side and center it on the shaft.

>> No.831296

>>830842
My daddy taught us not to be ashamed of our dicks.

>> No.831317

>>831296
What with their good size and all.

>> No.831433

>>831287
Can't do that. The shaft is plastic. It will tear it up with the amount of torque applied. you have to have the right tool for the job.

>> No.831449
File: 148 KB, 2362x1772, 0027163.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
831449

Are these Philips LED bulbs water proof?
Are they suitable for very humid locations.

>> No.831590

>>831449
Not water proof. Humidity proof, probably. I think they are only indoor use.

>> No.831600

>>831276
Doing programs for cnc is just as Easy as drawing in paint the hard part is knowing what tool You need to use and what speed they need to spin and learning how to use the cnc Mill. I just use editcnc when i need to fix something in a program

>> No.831624
File: 28 KB, 335x389, diy-shoe-rack.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
831624

Is there a name for the hardware used in this piece ? I think I could make the movement work correctly but using that piece seems easier

>> No.831632
File: 16 KB, 375x500, dar-lighting-outdoor-wall-mounted-ip44-light-fitting-salcombe-small-oval-ste-9976-p.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
831632

>>831590
I live in an old house, there's an incandescent bulb fitted on one of the edges of the house and it gets rained and snowed on, but works just fine.
Just wondered if I could replace it with an LED bulb, but I guess I'll have to buy one of those exterior light fittings and install it.
I wanted to avoid that since I don't have a ladder that long and it's going to be a pain in the ass to install it vs just replacing the bulb.

>> No.831640

>>831632
Under cover like that, it should be fine.

>> No.831652

>>831640
Yes I know there are a couple of other light fittings already, just wanted to save myself the trouble since the last bulb is at a very inaccessible place.

>> No.831758
File: 286 KB, 960x720, photo(4).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
831758

I have a Kenwood KDC-200U head unit that appears to be missing a constant wire. I tried finding a diagram for where the yellow wire would need to go but had no luck. How do I add the needed wire, and which hole does it need to go in?

I have never done this before.

>> No.831799

>>831624

Rev-A-Shelf 6552-95-0220 6552 Seriesone Pair of Hinges for Tip-Out Trays 16" or Longer, Chrome

or, Tip Out Sink Front 90 Degree Pivot Hinge

>> No.831802
File: 22 KB, 250x504, kenwood kdc-204 kdc-2094 kdc-222 kdc 2023 kdc 3023.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
831802

>>831758
First hit on google for: kenwood kdc-200u wiring diagram.
different model - same series
yellow on pin 16

>> No.831803

>>831802
Thanks, I didn't know if it would be the same across different models.

I checked out some videos on Youtube and replacing a wire seems easy enough, but the metal clip inside the harness is also missing. Since I don't have a soldering gun, would it be cheaper to just order a new harness?

>> No.831805
File: 121 KB, 1600x1600, $_57.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
831805

>>831803
I just checked on eBay
$4.58 with free shipping

>> No.831808

>>831805
Search eBay for:
Kenwood KDC-200U KDC200U Wire Wiring Harness - Copper

>> No.831817

>>831276
>So i need two programs?
Generally speaking, no. If you do have access to CAD/CAM software, it is usually capable of doing both.

You would make your 3D model of the part, and then use what is usually called a post-processor, which is essentially an exporter that generates G-code from your model. For the ones I've used, the post-processors were essentially plugins, some of which you could customize for a given machine (even though G-code is ISO standardized, not all machines support all G code commands, so you may use slightly different methods for different machines).

There are high end packages that handle multiple axes, HSM, various tool path tweaks, lock-out zones, machining simulations, support for probing, etc. that are very pricey all of the way down to freeware ones that have fewer features. I've used MasterCam a bit and VCarvePro - both are commercial packages, but there are other options out there.

Search terms would be (free, open source) CAD/CAM and post processor.

>> No.831853

I built a sandblaster like box, now i need to mount the gloves, any suggestion ?
The holes are already made and are 15 cm in diameter

>> No.831884

>>831853

search Jewtube for this video: Making_Sand_Blasting_Cabinet_and_using_it

>> No.831890

>>831884

Thank you, the solution was simpler than i thought.

>> No.831926

>>830867
You're going to hate yourself when the time comes to move

>> No.831937
File: 229 KB, 1107x438, Untitled-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
831937

My girlfriend and I want to make these flip jar lights and I honestly have no idea, so let me double check.
The led on the right (from ebay) would work in the circuit on the left (from the instructions), right?

>> No.831942

>>831937

post complete info, coz we're not psychics. what's that component at the top left? what battery type will you use, and how many cells? Nicads, NiMh? what's the part # for the LED?

just guessing but those look like 3V Leds at around 300mA, so you need alkaline cells, coz Nicads and NiMh are only 2.4V. that means it's gonna be expensive. better go for 3 AA rechargeables with an appropriate series resistor.

>> No.831959

>>831937
What size resistor do those take?

>> No.832675

Unsure if /g/ or here but you guys have the specialised knowledge, so here goes. I have just been handed a free Elitepad 900 running Win8, and I figure I may as well use it and see if 8 is as balls on tablets as it is on laptops (so far, breddy gud)

Does anyone know of any useful tablet/x86 programs I might be missing out on? We're talking things like electrodroid, the smart tools suite on android. Apps that you'd have on your toolbelt if they were a tool. I'm into electronics, audio design and production and robotics if that helps.

>> No.833430

I'm going do be building a desk with dimensions of 72" x 30", the height I'll figure out later.
Right now I'm just trying to figure out how I should go about building it, as I don't have the proper tools or a workspace to do it.
There's one "hackerspace" I'll sometimes visit, and I -might- be able to build it there, but I'm wondering if there's any other sort of publicly accessible space where I could build a simple table.

>> No.833433

>>833430
Seeing as how you didn't tell us where you LIVE I think us finding a space for you is going to be a problem.

>> No.833435

>>833433
I live in Reno, NV, sorry.

>> No.833454

Rim joists connected to a beam by four screws. Don't even look like lagbolts.
How soon is this deck going to fall apart?

>> No.833564

I have a pair of pajama pants that I really like, but they are too wide. This shouldn't be a problem because they have a drawstring, unfortunately the drawstring is tied in an extremely solid and impenetrable knot. I need to untie it to cinch my pants. I've tried jimmying it loose with a small pocket knife, small metal pins etc, but to no avail. Anyone know how to undo a really tight knot?

>> No.833570

>>833454
It will probably last as long as the wood holds up. When the wood starts to go it wont matter what they used to hold it together. Its fine.

>>833564
Get a replacement draw string. Cut the knot out of the original. Try new string to the old one and pull the old one out, drawing the new one into the pants. Done.

>> No.833572

>>833570
Get a replacement draw string.

Thank you kindly.

>> No.833579

So I told someone I'd replace their light fixtures, assuming they had up-to-date wiring.
Well they don't.
Long story short, I need a multimeter. I've never really needed one often, so I never bought one. Always borrowed.
I need recommendations. Doesn't have to be super fancy.

>> No.833590 [DELETED] 

How do I get cum stains out of brim of my fitted cap??

>> No.833606

>>833579
Harbor Freight is the king of one time purchases. They even have coupons for free multimeters if you buy something else. If you want a decent one you plan on keeping, but don't want to spend hundreds on a Fluke, the Mastech MS8261 is good and pretty cheap. $23 on Amazon. I've had one for a few years now and its a good meter and easy to use.

>> No.833610

>>833606
I'll check into the Mastech one. Thanks!

>> No.833615

That's a millwrights tools. They used those to measure steel

>> No.833616

You people don't understand steelworkers tools. That is a millwright's box.

>> No.833624
File: 161 KB, 900x900, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
833624

>>833579
>>833606
>>833610
Buy Southwire Digital Multimeter kit for $30 at Lowes. The multimeter works great and the non contact ac voltage detector allows you to check if any wires are hot before you touch them just in case (like if something is frayed and sending hot through the ground or whatever.) Don't mess around when it comes to electricity, get the detector tool too. I've used this kit to replace every single outlet and light switch in my house, instal new fixtures, ceiling fan, etc. 10/10 would recommend.

>> No.833626

>>833615
>>833616
This board has quoting for a reason bro. So we can tell who yours talking to without having to read the whole thread. Learn to use it.

>> No.833628

>>830836
That there is a thing-a-mah-bob.

>> No.833642

Is there a good way to carve a straight line? I can't do it on a table and I don't have an object to carve along.

>> No.833645

So my roommate was power washing the outside wall of our house and managed to break the flaps off the external vent. It's a 60mm x 60mm vent. What's the best way to go about repairing it? We figured we could buy a slightly bigger square vent and just over it. We never used it (it's electric) but I'm more concerned about having an open hole on the wall.

>> No.833867

What makes a bad solder joint "bad"?

I just soldered a 12v fan to a power supply, but I had to mold the hardened in some places with a pair of pliers to make my heat shrink wrap around it. This made the solder connection dull and ugly. Will this hurt the fan's performance? Ought I redo it?

>> No.833983

>>831276
faggots one and all
learn the basics of machine tools
write that shit with notepad
any other way for a simple part is weak shit

>> No.833987

>>833867
If it works then forget about it

>>833645
Duct should be angled to drain any rainwater, flaps are there to stop wind you don't need then really. Buy a second one similar and replace broken parts.

>> No.834510

>>833983
Hurrbdurr technology bad Thomas Edison is a witch and fire is evil

>> No.834577

>>831317
hmm.. I can see that

>> No.834593

>>830838
my favorite pasta of all time.

>> No.834609
File: 1.51 MB, 3840x2160, DSC_0129.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
834609

First time doing this.
Got a leaky pipe, what glue do I use between that plastic and sink?
Also how important is it to scrub off previous glue which is dark colour?

>> No.834621
File: 7 KB, 300x300, 31AEc8Rvm1L._SY300_[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
834621

>>834609
>what glue do I use between that plastic and sink?
It doesn't use glue - it's a neoprene/rubber gasket
>>834609
>important is it to scrub off previous glue
very - else it won't seal

>> No.834644

>>834621
Gasket was not enough to seal it, because it was barely touching the sink, I cleaned it up, and put sanitary silicone inbetween.
No clue what I just did, but hope it works.

>> No.834650

>>830839
>needing calibration for referential measuring tools

>> No.834700

>>833867
For 12v to a fan, I wouldn't worry. If it was carrying a signal, then I'd reheat the solder after molding to get shiny again.

>> No.834706

>>834644

You're supposed to use a gasket and plumber's putty. Gluing it 'works' but is irreversible... leaving you with a disgusting mess you have now.

>> No.834731 [DELETED] 

>>834644
>because it was barely touching the sink
This is when you look for a plastic shim washer or a thicker gasket - not glue.
The pic appears to be of a drain that is attached by the bezel inside the bowl.
More common here are threads and nut on the bottom (shown) side which allow for wider variations in sink thicknesses.

>> No.834733

>>834609
The pic appears to be of a drain style that is attached only by the bezel inside the sink.
Try holding the pictured part and twisting the part in the sink.
There are special tools for this but a pair of needle nose pliers will do in a pinch.

>> No.834827
File: 285 KB, 1374x897, Game_and_watch_Ball.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
834827

>>830836
Hello /diy/
I'm a programmer and would like to know how feasible is to create something like pic related
I know how to solder and have basic knowledge on electronic stuff

>> No.834836

>>834827
How much like pic related?
Point being, the display is custom shit. If you're okay with using a normal b/w graphics LCD, it isn't particularly difficult to make. Drawbacks are higher power consumption and pixelated display.

>> No.834863

>>834827
>chip and pocket chip
kikenzie gestarter

>> No.835721

New home owner.
Want to get into /diy/ kind of things and wondering what tools every home owner should own.

As of now I have
several screw drivers
a decent stud findering
a locking measuring tape
wretch/ratchet set
a pair of cutters

>> No.835775

>>835721
Buy tools when you need them, not before.

>> No.835782

>>835721
As >>835775 said buy them when you need them, or if you see a good deal. From what you have now you can do a lot with already, however you might want to get a hammer.

>> No.835809
File: 931 KB, 1598x2385, Jenga_distorted.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
835809

I've been considering staining an old Jenga set I have lying around the house, but I wasn't sure if it would affect the usefulness of the actual game (causing the "bricks" to stick, etc.). Have any of you guys ever done anything like this? I would prefer to do a darker stain, but I'm not sure how realistic that is.

>> No.835814

>>833642
Snap it with a chalk line. Carve along that. Don't have a chalk line? Take a length of string and roll it around in chalk powder. Bickety-bam! Chalk line.

>> No.835849

>>835809
stain with stain of choice, then seal with polyurethane, and once the poly is dry sand with very high grit sand paper or rub with fine grade steel wool. This should keep the pieces from sticking as when you rub the Poly down a bit it make the finish very smooth, did this with a desk i was re-finishing and the top is very smooth and stuff doesnt stick to it.

>> No.835869

>>835809
>tea
>black coffee
>wood dye (powder form, activated with alcohol, dilluted)
>dilluted matte paint
>watercolor

>> No.835872

>>834836
>If you're okay with using a normal b/w graphics LCD, it isn't particularly difficult to make
Was more thinking of that, to be able to play a little with it by programming cool stuff on it.
When you says isn't difficult to make, care to develop more ? Any links ?

>> No.835916
File: 114 KB, 672x1023, jenga ultimate.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
835916

>>835809

just get Jenga Ultimate, it's already nicely done in red, black and natural. probably costs less than the materials to stain them.

oops, just checked, they're $41 fucking dollars on ebay, for some fucking wood blocks. shit, i paid, $1 at the thrift store.

>> No.836103
File: 60 KB, 402x271, XPS.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
836103

Is it dangerous to sand XPS Extruded Polystyrene Insulation?

Wasn't sure if the dust is harmful or not and google wasn't helping as it mostly just says not to microwave it with food.

>> No.836126

>>836103
It's just plastic, but do you want plastic in your lungs?

>> No.836138

>>836126
Suppose I should use a respirator then. I have a 3M Tekk painting respirator with Noshi OV/P95, but I have no idea what any of that means to be honest never used it.

>> No.836139

I have a CNC router.

Is there a "good" brand of foam insulation I should be looking for at home depot to machine?

I've heard lots of people suggest "insulation foam from Home Depot" as easily machinable material.

>> No.836149

I recently bought a soldering iron (Weller 40w) and started to teach myself how to solder. Every video I've seen says to touch the tip to the wire, then touch the piece of solder to the wire, but I haven't been able to do that successfully. I've only been able to touch the solder to the iron, then let the molten solder make the connection.

So, a couple of questions:
1. Is that bad? Should I learn the proper way?
2. Why doesn't my iron seem to get the wire hot enough? Is it because the wattage is too low? Because I read somewhere that anything higher than 40w has the potential to damage electronics.
3. I'm using the pointy tip, should I be using the chisel tip?
4. What do I do with the bits of solder that are too short to hold with my hand? I tried using pliers to hold them, but that was too unwieldy, and it seems wasteful to just toss the bits of solder away.
5. What about cases where I'm making a connection to a PCB, wouldn't touching the PCB with the iron potentially damage it?

>> No.836161

>>836149
1) Your connections wont be a nice and theres a higher chance they will be bad. Its not a best practice. Heat your work, not the solder.
2) Is it a gun type or an 'always on' type? The former, you're not waiting long enough or its a shitty soldering gun. The later, your timing is bad and you are getting it between its periods of heating.
3) Use the tip that best fits the work you are doing.
4) Tweezers, solder holders or better solder management.
5) If you aren't careful, yes. You heat the soldering pad on the board. Unless its a breadboard, in which case it wouldn't have one and you shouldn't touch the PCB at all, only the wire.

>> No.836162

>>836149
> 1. Is that bad? Should I learn the proper way?
Yes it is, and yes you should.
> 2. Why doesn't my iron seem to get the wire hot enough? Is it because the wattage is too low? Because I read somewhere that anything higher than 40w has the potential to damage electronics.
40W is plenty, your method is the problem. To get the heat into the wire hold the iron under the wire you intend to tin, not on. Radiant heat from the tip will rise, heating the wire. Should take no more than 3 seconds to get enough heat in. From there use the solder to push the wire onto the tip, at which point solder will start flowing. Watch and wait for the solder to "wick" itself up to the insulation, the drag the tip along the wire and off the end to complete the tin and drag excess solder off. It may help to slightly twist the strands together before you start.
> 3. I'm using the pointy tip, should I be using the chisel tip?
Not really important here, more relevant on actual PCB work. A blunt cylinder will do the job, as long as it is capable of radiating heat into the wire.
> 4. What do I do with the bits of solder that are too short to hold with my hand? I tried using pliers to hold them, but that was too unwieldy, and it seems wasteful to just toss the bits of solder away.
Toss them away. Don't waste your time with scrap.
> 5. What about cases where I'm making a connection to a PCB, wouldn't touching the PCB with the iron potentially damage it?
How do you think PCB's are soldered, with magic and pixie dust? Same theory applies. Place your tip to allow heat transfer to the pad and component leg, then feed solder in. Hanging around on the pad for too long may result in the pad lifting from the PCB, but again, it should not be taking you more than 5 seconds to get heat in, apply solder and back off.

>> No.836189

> What do I do with the bits of solder that are too short to hold with my hand?

that's a weird question. you should never have any short bits of solder unless you're at the very end of the roll. perhaps you're cutting off sections from the roll for each joint, which, if true, would be truly retarded.

>> No.836192

>>836189
I >>836162 routinely break lengths off my solder roll so rather than having to handle an entire ungainly roll (and the weight associated) I just need to hold a strand, leaved my other fingers free to manipulate the job if needed. Last half centimeter or so gets scrapped unless I am doing a large pad which I can dump the remainder into.

Maybe you're just a poorfag who can't afford solder?

>> No.836196

You should be pulling a working length of solder off the roll and feeding it into the work. When you're done just roll any excess back into the roll. --leave the roll on the table and just hold the end of the solder.

Never reuse a piece of solder. Solder needs rosin to whet to the work properly. If you're reusing a puddle or the stuff stuck to the tip of the iron there's no rosin so it wont work right. The rosin is the puff of smoke when the solder melts, its not lead vapor.

You can use a dab of solder on the tip of your iron as a heat bridge, it shouldn't whet the work but it will give you better heat transfer. Still feed the solder directly into the joint from your roll, don't feed it into the iron.

>> No.836257
File: 114 KB, 900x843, solder in TUMS tube.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
836257

> rather than having to handle an entire ungainly roll

if a whole roll is too much to handle, one trick is to roll a length of solder around a sharpie, and stick it in a small tube. the trick is that the solder comes out from the bottom of the spool, which means it never gets tangled up. as a bonus, you can hold the tube with your teeth when you have no other way. make sure no one's looking, tho.

>> No.836277
File: 111 KB, 458x654, solder holder.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
836277

commercial
--
home made

Solder pulled from but still attached to spool while being used in both instances.

>> No.836375

>>836189
>perhaps you're cutting off sections from the roll for each joint, which, if true, would be truly retarded.
Yes, that's what I've been doing. I guess I won't anymore.

Anyway, how essential is a soldering iron cleaner? As far as the wire sponge ones go. Is it better to use that instead of the regular sponge that came with my holder? And if so, could I just buy the sponge at the store instead of getting an actual soldering iron cleaner? Because just the sponge is $2, vs a cleaner which is close to $10.

>> No.836380

>>836375
Sponge is fine, especially for your cheap first iron. If you get a nice iron then the metal wool cleaners are better because they are not a thermal shock to it.

Tip tinning/cleaning powder is probably unnecessary too. Just put a bunch of solder on it then wipe it off on the sponge. You should have a nice soldered tip still.

>> No.836387

>>836375
I've used both and prefer the wet sponge.

When you're ready to store the iron for the day put a blob of solder on the tip and leave it when you turn it off.

>> No.836395
File: 49 KB, 657x539, lol.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
836395

What are the best welding/safety supply online stores that are Canadian or that ship to Canada for a reasonable price?

My trade school requires that exact face shield and I can't find it at the local Home Depot and Reno Depot.

>> No.836465

So basically I got a killer deal on a house but I'm a total diy newb and the only one helping me is my stepdad. I feel like a dick burdening him with teaching me all this basic shit, and our schedules clash like hell so at this rate the house won't be finished for another 6 months.

My question is, for an absolute beginner /diy/er, where should I start? What should I learn first to speed up the project? What good resources are out there that will teach me the basics of everything? I feel if I have more knowledge on the more basic shit, the more confidence I'll have to tackle other projects. The house isn't a total overhaul, but it does have a little bit of everything.

>> No.836469

>>836465
Go to library, find DIY section.

>> No.836483

>>836469
Then what? I mean I'm all for doing research but there's got to be stupid little shit here and there that just isn't in the books. I know trial and error is important as well, I just want to be more prepared when I actually get my hands dirty.

I wish I could be more specific, but I've basically done nothing myself at this point.

>> No.836486

>>836483
the library will have books like "beginner handyman guide to home repairs" or whatever. read, continue from there. ask stepdad when you need advice.

>> No.836491

>>836486
Fair enough. My problem is probably motivation more than anything, I guess I just need to get started on something. t-thanks anon

>> No.837111

I'm probably working this week as a stonemason's assistant. It's a natural stone wall, working 6-8 hours over the course of 4 days. How fucked am I?

>> No.837115

>>837111
You'll know after the first day.
>mix mud
>lug rocks

>> No.837341
File: 187 KB, 819x1024, 131222-lepai.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
837341

Hi guys. I'm not at home for the next three months. Since my previous roommate left the house gifting me a pair of speakers and a sub, I bought one of these hyper cheap chinese 2.1 amp (pic related). I have two questions:

1) Since the power (20 W) is probably split between the three channels, is there a way I can wire it mono to have the whole power on a single speaker? If yes, how should I do it? (Single channel, parallel, serial, etc.)

2) Can I use a 18v adapter or will it fry it?

(Sorry for my ignorance. I understand that the first answer depends on the schematic, I'll try to find a picture of the guts, if nothing comes up online I'll take one myself before doing anything)

I'm asking it because I'd like to use it not only as a speaker system amp, but even as a 20W (sorta) guitar amp too, from time to time

>> No.837453

>>837341
1) Probably no.
2) Probably yes. Get a 12v, 2amp supply at like a thrift store or something. It doesn't come with one when you bought it?

Anyway, 20 watts might be fine depending on the demands of the speakers. What is their max imput?

>> No.837735
File: 19 KB, 262x236, 1432410407737.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
837735

I'm starting trade school in welding in the fall and I'm considering getting the cheapest shitty MIG welder I can find to practice until then.

Is this a bad idea?

>> No.837743

>>837735
Get a used decent welder from CL for the same price.

>> No.837745

>>837743
Yeah, that's what I meant too. I just want to spend as little as I can on this since it'd just be to fuck around, also I'm not rich.

>> No.837962

what could I use to make an audible click when someone steps on something? looking for something mechanical, have access to whatever I need really

>> No.837977

>>837962
Tap dancing shoes.

>> No.837979

>>837977
what I want is for everyone who steps on this to hear the click, and I can't make everyone wear tap dancing shoes

>> No.837984

>>837979
Ir sensors/ proximity switches. I can't think of an easier mechanical solution.
You could use a pressure plate, but that would require modification to the floor.

>> No.838227
File: 514 KB, 1000x500, 0244.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
838227

What is this magic cube thing I have drawn?
Is there a single device that does all this, or will it end up being a bunch of things all working separately?

Batteries should charge whenever the sun shines or it's plugged in.
Should the powerstrip just always be run off the batteries, or should it too switch to the wall when plugged in? Does it at all matter?

>> No.838231

>>838227
Its several things. Look up 'Grid-tied electrical system'. It is not cheap. If you don't want it hooked up to the electrical grid you can make a much simpler system thats use a panel, a charge controller, the batteries and an inverter to convert it to AC.

>> No.838236

>>838231
But I want to be able to charge from the grid as well when I can.
Wouldn't that then just be a normal battery charger?
Can I load/use the batteries while they're charging? Is this maybe dependent on the charger?

>> No.838240
File: 469 KB, 1000x500, 0245.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
838240

>>838231
>>838236

>> No.838981
File: 16 KB, 400x400, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
838981

What type of hammer is this?

>> No.838997
File: 105 KB, 500x550, 1403142890275.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
838997

>>838981
a stronk russian one

>> No.839043
File: 2.31 MB, 4128x2322, 20150710_120702.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
839043

Does anyone know what kind of bit this is? I can't find shit on it. Ordered it from China for my corded screwdriver.

>> No.839171
File: 1.07 MB, 1200x1600, IMG_20150710_174925.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
839171

what is this tool? I feel like I should know but I don't

>> No.839200

>>838981
Straight peen hammer

>> No.839201

>>838981
Thats not a hammer, thats a prostrate stimulator.

>> No.839215
File: 33 KB, 640x427, ub1aVyq0Vb9DtIBb[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
839215

>>839200
>Straight peen hammer
cross peen hammer
straight peen has beveled edge aligned WITH handle
cross peen has beveled edge aligned aCROSS handle

>> No.839333

>>835721
Hammer as others have said. I would include a small pry bar/crowbar

>> No.839624

So i have one of those RC LiPo batteries that has been sitting in a box for 18 months without any use or charge. Is it still going to be good to use?

>> No.839627

>>839624
i mean i haven't been charging it or using it but when i put it away last time i did it after charging it to almost full capacity.

>> No.839632

Non /diy/ pleb here, gonna be moving into a new place next month and its unfurnished. It has fridge/freezer & cooker but no washing machine.

I've watched youtube videos regarding installing a washing machine and two reviews on this machine itself, but I thought I'd ask as another point of view.
Anyone got experience with Whirlpool as a washing machine brand? Anyone got any experience with this particular washing machine, by some off chance?
http://ao.com/product/wwdc64001-whirlpool-washing-machine-white-27918-1.aspx

Thanks.

>> No.839830

>>839627
should be fine
recommended procedure is:
cool storage at 75% charge

>> No.839881

I'm wanting to build a battery pack for my BeagleBone.
When the mini usb (or 5V jack (this distinction might be useful if one of these power inputs trumps/blocks the other) is not plugged in, it should be powered from the batteries.
When it is plugged in, the batteries should charge and power to the board should instead be pulled from the usb/5V jack. Charging needs to stop when the batteries are full (as so they don't explode), but power supplied should not switch over until it is unplugged.
I've never done a project like this with batteries before, where might I find good info and help?

Now that I've typed all this, it occurs to me that this has prolly already been done countless times and specifically for the BeagleBone Black too and that's what I should be searching for.
Still going to post it as y'all often have better more helpful insights than any search engine.

>> No.839922
File: 545 KB, 1600x1200, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
839922

I am in the process of making Blacksmith tongs with a plan to mostly make blades but some general smithing as well. What kind of bit do I need to forge that will work for making blades but as a general pair if tongs as well?

>> No.840080
File: 544 KB, 1213x913, 2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840080

How hard would it be to cut this kind of fins to a wood? The width of a fin is 5 mm, the width of the opening is the same 5 mm, the angle is 45 degrees and thickess of the board is 5mm as well. There would be several of these fins along the surface. The wood would be something like an oak or walnut, stain without lacquer.

>> No.840083
File: 442 KB, 1213x913, 1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840083

>>840080
The project is a custom ITX case, cube is 22 x 22 x 22 cm outer dimensions. The cuts are airflow openings... I could make those simply vertical and just route them, but I want to direct the air in one direction and anso make the holes look more concealed from the users point of view.

>> No.840097

>>840083
Wood is really not a good material for a pc case.

>> No.840099

>>840097
The case itself will be either aluminium or steel sheets. The wood is only covering material on 3 sides and very thin at that.

>> No.840102
File: 1.31 MB, 1000x1333, MxQeFv.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840102

>>840097
I strongly disagree.

>> No.840206

I want to get some woodworking experience. If I want to carve simple things from wood, like spoons or little figures, what tool(s) do I get? Less is better.

>> No.840221
File: 96 KB, 580x435, Mesh1a2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840221

>>840102
you realise that the case acts as a heat sink for the hard drives yes? you seem to have mounted those hard drives in a good insulating material. running at a higher temperature means they will fail prematurely.

I notice that you havn't accounted for under board cooling either.

>>840080
personally, i would cut out that section and install some kind of wire mesh instead. just for the sake of simplicity.

>> No.840280
File: 108 KB, 469x732, 3.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840280

>>840221
If design was a secondary or tertiary concern, I wouldnt even bother making a case for it. Honestly, there are tons of good ITX cases for PC hardware, this is just an exercise in design process and I would like to finish it with actually manufacturing the case. I dont mind spending some time on it and actually the case is more important to me as the PC which I dont really need much but want one for living room to hook up to TV - play games and watch movies.

I was thinking of cutting the panel larger (say 30 x 30 cm) and cutting a 45 degree block of wood, screw the panel to the block and lower the saw into it. Then remove the screws and cut the panel to specification (dashed lines)

Would this work okay, especially with small dimesnions? Theres quite a small margin for error and its highly precision however it looks doable with just basic tools.

>> No.840285

I'm getting into woodworking and just started with some little shit. Made some beard beeds using a simple batery drill as a lathe and stuff like that but will do some carving and other stuff in the future. Anyway question is how to get that high polish on the wood. I can get some high quality laquer (if thats thats the english word for it) because i work in a chair factory ( also good for getting scrap wood mostly birch and oak) but i saw some nice pieces finished with wax and oil so id like to know what kind of wax/oil can be used on wood to make it look nice.

>> No.840286
File: 114 KB, 500x403, wood-floor-vents-2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840286

>>840280
it would but you would need a good jig. lots of parallel lines. if even one of then is not so straight, fuck start again.

there are other ways to get what you want. like say using square dowel, rotating it 45 degrees, gluing then sanding down. kind of like how these louvres are sort of just framed in.

or you could cut on one side only like extremely deep finger joints. then just glue a straight piece of timber to the edge to close the strips you just cut.

>> No.840302

>>840286
Im afraid the really delicate thin fins would be hard to glue together in a straight line, and overall manipulation with standalone fins would be less precise as with the whole panel.

Considering proper spacing, I would not trust a moving table. Instead, I would have a number of spacers (metal) equal to the number of fins. They would be as thick as the distance between fins (10 mm adjusted for 45 degree slope makes it 7 mm). I would stack them together to the base of wooden base block, make the cut, remove the spacer, make the cut, rinse and repeat.

There are some questions about diffeent depths the saw can go with progressingly lower height of the cutting surface, and saw being circular, making the cuts wider and wider. But I think the base idea of manufacturing is solid.

>> No.840307
File: 8 KB, 139x250, dsc01859-500x500-250x250.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840307

>>840302
well, I certainly wouldnt go for thin cuts like that just because of all of the fine detail work required, I would cheat and use a prefab grill or something.

>> No.840357
File: 432 KB, 600x600, 150327_evangeliontoaster_3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840357

i would really like to buy this japanese toaster & use it in the US, and was wondering if there was any way i could buy a second american toaster and frankenstein the parts together. i'm not very skilled, but i have friends who are decent at electronics if it's not a super complex task.

the company who manufactured this toaster (SIS) doesn't seem to make any american toasters, which makes things probably more difficult. i know nothing about toasters, though i just took apart my shitty one to see how it worked and how feasible this project might be.

i assume that it would be best to replace literally all wiring in the japanese toaster with american wiring, correct? how likely is it that the novelty stamp has heating elements directly connected to it, rather than just being an inert piece of metal that could be preserved?

if this project is possible, do you know the best way to find a compatible american toaster? if i wait until the japanese one arrives and open it up, is there any way of knowing what american toasters have similar insides? also, is there any non-obvious research i should do before attempting this? i will be looking up how to solder/otherwise reconnect wires to heating elements in a relatively foodsafe way, since that looks like it'll be necessary, but when looking at my shitty toaster, everything else seems to be just knowing how to separate inert parts, move some shit around, and put those parts back together again.

if this isn't possible, i can always buy the $100 transformer i'd need to use this safely, but frankensteining sounds more fun.

(let me know if this question should go in /ohm/ or somewhere else instead)

>> No.840358
File: 3.84 MB, 2688x1520, IMAG0851.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840358

Hey guys. I've been saving cans for several years now and always thought "I'll crush them and sell them one day". Well that days is here and I'm pretty overwhelmed. Is there an easy way to crush a ton all at once or am I stuck using a single can crusher one at a time?

>> No.840361

>test post
> 123

>> No.840370

>>840357
I think Japan uses the same plugs and voltage as the US, dude.

>> No.840375

>>840361
>loud and clear

>> No.840377

>>840370
nah, japan uses 100 volts whereas the US uses 120. it doesn't usually matter, though, unless the electronics have heating elements, in which case those appliances often catch fire after awhile.

>> No.840396

>>840375
>Copy, CAPCOM
>Guidance?

>> No.840409
File: 50 KB, 480x216, SmartVise-img.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840409

I live in a rental apartment, and want to get into woodworking, mostly with hand tools and mostly fairly small things. I'm not sure if I'll have to flatten/square the lumber that I'll get, but it seems that you usually need to.

Is pic related sturdy enough to work on, given you have a decent table to put it on?

How sturdy are portable workbenches such as the one below?
www.gadgetspeak.com/aimg/665912-Bosch-PWB600-portable-work-bench-l.jpg

>> No.840481
File: 48 KB, 500x461, Home made laptop.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840481

So I don't really know where to look or start and I'm getting sour search results online and I've never actually been to /diy/ but I was wondering if any of you have had any experience building a laptop from the ground up.

Basically the idea is to create a small box with a Micro ITX motherboard, and I am heavily considering making the box out of wood but I also need to know if they sell slim panels with hinges that I could attach directly to the box.
Even if the panel has some plastic covering I would most likely remove it and make the cover match the wood/plastic box but it needs to be thin, the size isn't too important.

Essentially I would make a 2.875 tall box with just enough length and width to fit a Mini ITX motherboard and a low profile MSI 750ti.

I also am curious about how you might rig a monitor to the same PSU inside of a computer to power them both simultaneously.

Heat is not a major concern. I would mill out 3 holes in the box for 2 80mm intake fans and 1 80mm exhaust but other than that as long as it doesn't cook I'm not terribly concerned but if any of you know anything about the thermal properties of wood vs. plastic vs. metal that would be nice.

Also any input about what type of wood I should use, something preferably more durable what I can panel a bit thinner (.25 or .375 of an inch if possible). I was thinking maple for it's close grain and good weight/durability but I don't know for sure.

At any rate the idea is to make a nice neat package that looks like a large jewelry box that I can take anywhere and HD game with or just web browse. Money is not a major factor but cheaper is always nicer.
I'm thinking about an i3 4130 Intel based system with a low profile MSI 750ti and one 500gb Samsung 850 Pro SSD. Something like a half 375 or 400w flex PSU would be nice but I'm not sure what brands to trust with these half sized PSUs.

I don't plan on having an optical drive, and portability and power with practicality are my main concerns.

Help Plz

>> No.840561
File: 40 KB, 600x389, 87240.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840561

What is this thing called? I'm trying to find one with a 6mm threaded hole but I don't know what to google.

>> No.840570
File: 520 KB, 1080x1920, Screenshot_2015-07-12-23-37-26.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840570

Which one /diy/?
I'm drilling holes in aluminum 80% lower recievers.

>> No.840573

>>840570
a corded drill

>> No.840575

>>840573
Any specific suggestions?

>> No.840578
File: 1.96 MB, 720x392, bigweldington.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840578

>>840561
According to google, they're called fork links.
This site has stuff about them (needs to be translated) http://www.wiberger.se/templates/din71751.htm
and this one sells them http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Fastelement/Ovrigt/Gaffellank-2000020136/

>> No.840587

>>840578
I'd rather buy them from an online supplier in my own country rather than from Sweden but thanks for the help. Googling fork link doesn't seem to give any helpful results unfortunately :(

>> No.840593
File: 66 KB, 450x600, 54cb1b50cac86_-_drill-press-tool-test-06-0913-lgn[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840593

>>840570
Popular Mechanics rated five stars
(best compact drill press)
$130

>> No.840597
File: 669 KB, 1280x800, 333323500.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840597

>>840587
>Googling fork link doesn't seem to give any helpful results
fork head

>> No.840606

>>840597
ah hah! thanks man

>> No.840608
File: 6 KB, 259x194, images[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840608

>>840597
kek

>> No.840609

>>840481
Dude, use a briefcase. It can be a poker chip set briefcase, pelican case for ruggedness or plain old business one. If possible, use laptop components like slim keyboard orm monitor panel.

>> No.840886 [DELETED] 
File: 1.22 MB, 1885x1060, tmp_25107-2015-07-13 16.32.511989540665.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840886

I applied some "high heat" product to my 16ga aluminum exhaust. It's falling off and some rust has shown up. I want to apply some Rustoleum now, but I can't clean up the rust and old product without cutting down the whole system.

Should I just spray it and leave it alone? If it lasts five years on unsalted roads, I'll be happy. Thanks guys.

>> No.840887 [DELETED] 

>>840886
>aluminum
I mean, aluminized mild steel.

>> No.840889 [DELETED] 

>>840886
>aluminum
I mean, it's aluminized mild steel. And I've passed over the bottom a little with a wire wheel in the picture.

>> No.840909

>>840481
there are a few companies making itx cases with carry handles these days. why not build it in a case meant for a computer? antec makes an itx case for vesa mounting. and azza makes a case that looks like a pelican case, shouldnt be too hard to attach a monitor to that. none of them look like jewelry boxes tho.

good luck in whatever you build, and keep us posted on your progress!

>> No.840945

My Craftsman weed-wacker stalls when I open up the throttle. I've cleaned the carburetor, replaced fuel lines, put I'm new fuel, cleaned the magneto, got a new spark plug, and adjusted the carb high and low screws. What else am I missing?

>> No.840955

>>840945

When was the last time you cleaned out and rebuilt the carb?

Also >>837042

>> No.840965

>I've cleaned the carburetor,
>>840955
>When was the last time you cleaned out and rebuilt the carb?

Gee, I wonder. Maybe you should read the dudes post before answering it?

>> No.841017
File: 31 KB, 500x333, $_12[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
841017

>>840481
Just today, I dismantled an Acer z3101 I found in a bin.

To all intents and purposes, it's a laptop, in a desktop case, built with desktop components.

It has a normal micro ATX motherboard, which connects to this crazy custom board that provides:

- Power to the backlight inverters and DVD drive, taken from the main PSU using a standard AT hard disk power connector.
- Signal to the LCD, converted from HDMI taken from the motherboard using *a flylead that connects to the back panel of the motherboard and is labeled "do not remove"*
- A multifunction card reader, that backhauls through USB
- amplification for the built-in speakers, backhauling to the motherboard's audio header

It's like they took all the weird bits that an all-in-one might require, and concentrated them all onto a single weird board.

If you were crazy enough to want to turn a desktop motherboard into a laptop, then this board is the board you would want.

>> No.841041
File: 5 KB, 275x207, 30561_g1[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
841041

Hello! I have an iPod Nano 3rd gen, and I tried to take off the casing using a screwdriver, to try and fix the unresponding select button. While admittedly succeeding in the attempt (while at the same time being unsuccessful in fixing the initial hardware problem), the casing won't reinsert properly, and various internet instructions only provide details on disassembly. Is there any way for me to go about fixing this on my own, and if not, what would be the cheapest solution? Would a small hardware/repair store be cheaper than the Apple Store? My iPod is almost 8 years old. Thanks.

>> No.841094

>>840945
Clean the air filter. If it's chocked full of dust it'll stall when you open up the throttle.

>> No.841172

I want to modify my weber into a smoker and want to fab a piece of stainless to keep the coals to one side.

where can someone purchase a 20gauge 2'x1' piece of steel and what will be the best tool for cutting it?

I work with wood, almost never with metal so any tips on smoothing out the final product

>> No.841261

>>841172
Why not just use the coal baskets that would have come with your weber? Or even just use some old bricks.

>> No.841301

I want to place a small camera on a small RC vehicle and i want to wirelessly get the video on a computer.

Please help me out guys !

>> No.841353

So when I tighten the flange on an angle grinder, I use the method Ave shows in one of his vid where you pull on the disc to tighten it firmly. Today some bloke had a go at me for not tightening it enough and said I have to use the tool. Whats the proper/best way to tighten discs on an angle grinder properly?

>> No.841380
File: 21 KB, 532x500, bluepulleykey.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
841380

>>831433
Make a pulley key to work with set screw and distribute torque

>> No.841385
File: 97 KB, 1024x576, floor-vent-deflectors-1024x576.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
841385

>>840080
>>840083
get some floor vents, glue in

>> No.841503

>>841301
"fpv rc" is what you're looking for.

>> No.841946

Going to make a router table soon. Has anyone ever made a separate plate insert to attach their circular saw to convert their router table into a table saw? I have a pretty small space for my workshop so this would be ideal.

>> No.841951

I have a sprinkler head with an adjustable nozzle that only seems to work properly if I set it at a 360 angle, if I set it lower water won't come out as it should. Changed the nozzle twice, same result. What could it possibly be?

>> No.841958

>>841951
Have you changed the hose connection that the sprinkler is attaching to? Some of them have valves that won't let water out unless connected to an attachment and maybe your particular sprinkler head is causing an issue with the valve.

>> No.841964

>>841958
Thanks for replying. I changed the sprinkler head and now it's working, sane nozzle. What was wrong with the old one I'll never know.

>> No.842224

The flame on my water heater keeps going out

I'll light the pilot, let it run on "pilot mode heat" for about 5 minutes, but at soon as I turn it to regular temperature, the flame goes out.

This has just started happening in the past few days

>> No.842226

>>831273

You can sand the cut edges and buff them to make it transparent. Beware of using it where high tempreatures will be present as it warps.

>> No.842228

>>842224
I assume you've checked the pilot temperature sensor?

>> No.842229

>>842228
Well, to clarify, its the water heater at my apartment. Technically the maintenance can fix it, but they're slow and unreliable so if it was something I could fix on my own I'd rather do that. Oddly enough, ALL the pilot lights went out a few days ago (water heater, 2 on the stove, and one on the wall heater), I was able to relight all but water heater no problem.

However if it's something related to sensors or electrical components then I'm better off calling them.

>> No.842338
File: 10 KB, 489x699, Untitled-1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

Anyway to charge these using a 4.2v charger or will I just need to get a voltage booster?

>> No.842342

>>842338
wire them in parallel. but you'd know that if you weren't messing with something you shouldn't be.

>> No.842343

>>842342
They need to be in series to get 8v out of them though.

I guess the only way to charge them would be as they are in series?

>> No.842356

>>842343
charge them in parallel, then put em back in series when you want to connect it back to your load.

>> No.842522
File: 1.23 MB, 2400x1634, 9 Cylinder Radial Engine poster FINAL small.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

I'm making a potato combustion gun, and I'm thinking since I'm gonna use pvc pipes, that I need some kind of safety valve in case the barrel jams. Anyone have any idea what I could use? I was thinking maybe cutting off a bottles cap, then drilling a hole in the cap roughly half the area and gluing a piece of paper to the inside, then mount it as an exit valve from the combustio chamber. That way it would blow the paper out if the chamber gets too pressurized and not blow up the whole cannon. Thoughts? Have this poster I made in return.

>> No.842552

>>842522
You can buy proper PVC pressure regulators. Lots of different pressure ratings too. Do some maths and figure out what rating you think you'd need.

>> No.842555

>>842552
Hmm yeah maybe. I can hardly find PVC items here, only the most basic like pipes and adaptors so I was figuring it would be a lot easier and cheaper to do something by myself

>> No.842648

Almost every plan or idea I find on the internet to make you need a table saw. I have a few tools but table saws are so fucking expensive. What do?

>> No.842746

>>830839

That's not true. Even uncalibrated tools are ok, particularly if you are starting out.

That dial gage would be useful for centering a part in a lathe, or putting a part on center in the mill with an appropriate bracket. All you really care about is the relative motion of the needle, like that other dude mentioned.

Even if you have a micrometer or dial caliper (absolute measurement) you can check its accuracy with a cheap set of gage blocks, effectively doing your own non-nist traceable calibration. If it is good enough for your purposes, great. Hell even checking a couple tools against one another will give you some confidence in their accuracy, not to mention measuring something common like a parallel in lieu of a gage block.

>> No.842748

>>842522

use a piece of shim stock as a burst diaphram instead of paper

>>842552

a pressure regulator would never have either the time response or flow rate necessary to limit pressure in that application.

>> No.842890

>>830836
what do you guys think
Should I build my own electrolysis rig so I can produce hydrogen gas or should I just try and find some sort of compressed canister
for the most part, I'm looking to fill up balloons and explode them for fun, so whatever's easiest

>> No.842892

I want to create a blank tile mat for D&D, whats the best material to cover a piece of paper or carton so that I can use a dry erase marker?

>> No.843050

>>842892
Clear contact sheets

>> No.843054

>>840358
make aluminum ingots

>> No.843534
File: 2.98 MB, 2304x3072, 3733.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
843534

I want to insulate a hot water heater. I've got an old hot water heater that isn't a standard size and is a lot bigger than most hot water heaters. The normal blankets they sell wont fit.

What kind of insulation should I buy? Ideally something that I can cut and use around the pipes running to the hot water heater as well. They have a bunch of valves sticking out of them, so the insulation will need to go around be able to fit weird places.

Also where can I get the insulation? I live in the US.

Pic related isn't my hot water heater, it's just to attract attention to the post.

>> No.843537

>>840358
You saved them by throwing them on your grass?

>> No.843538

>>843534
buy as many standard blankets as you need and overlap them with duct tape

>> No.843542

>>843538
Would cutting the standard blankets be possible without fucking everything up? There's quite a lot of exposed hot water piping.

>> No.843544
File: 462 KB, 3264x2448, crankdrill1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
843544

Is there any advantage to owning a hand-cranked drill nowadays? I already have several electric power drills, cord and cordless.

I found pic related in an antique shop. They want $38 for it.

>> No.843545
File: 475 KB, 3264x2448, crankdrill2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
843545

>>843544
The crank turns smoothly and rotates the chuck as expected.

>> No.843551

>>843544
There is no way you should pay $40 for an old ass drill. I'm sure if you found one at a garage sale or a thrift store they'd want a dollar for one in the same condition.

The only hand drill I think would be useful is a push drill, which is much smaller and can let you get into places that an electric (or crank) drill can't fit. Hand drills can operate with more torque, partly because of the lower speeds involved and partly because you can really fucking crank on it since you're using your arms instead of a tiny electric motor.

>> No.843569

>>843544
>antique shop
They basically exist to get as much money as possible out of old crap.

>> No.843570

>>843544
For honing engine blocks at home
You dont need to be a machinist to do it, great how to video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bT1nRq-cM7M

>> No.843571
File: 178 KB, 1600x753, $_57[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
843571

>>843551
>>843544

Agreed. Thats highway robbery. Thats ignorant hipster bullshit prices. The only people that would pay that kind of money buy shit to put on their coffee table and talk about it with their girlfriends during book club meetings.

While Its worth more than a dollar I wouldn't pay more than $10 and have passed up similar examples selling for less because I already have one (I'm a huge vintage tool whole though so I've got like 3 of everything). It looks complete and the condition is good but its not even a nice one. Its firmly middle of the road. If it was a North Bros. Yankee 1555 in that condition I might pay $38 for it. Pic related, from eBay buy it now price $40. You know damn well shits cheaper in real life then on eBay and you can also tell its a much higher end tool.

>> No.843572

>>843537
You have a point, but I have a big yard and no one ever sees them. I made sure they were in a hidden spot. That's the main reason I haven't touched them until now.

>> No.843575
File: 39 KB, 700x225, push-drill-108lg[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
843575

>>843544
Me again >>843571

Just to hit you with some knowledge, thats called a breast drill. The plate at the back is so you can lean into it hard while using it. Its the heavy hitter of the crank drill family. Only a brace, and then a large one, allows you to apply more torque than the larger breast drills. They are generally medium size to large compaired to an 'eggbeater' drill and are kind of difficult to use because of their bulk but can really drill and drive. That said, almost any power drill, even a good cordless, is gonna be better that one of those. Technology has come a long way. Theres no reason so use hand tools for most things unless you are worried about price, noise, batteries/cords or just like old tools (like me).

That said, >>843551 has a point. Old push drills are really handy for tight spaces. They are just a bit larger than a standard size screwdriver. I have several of them. North Bros/Stanley made tons of them for the phone company (they often times have Bell System stamped on them) and you can pick them up for $1 to $5 easy. Ones made by Millers Falls and Goodell & Pratt are also well made. They take custom bits but their bit storage is often in the handle so its easy to find some that still have many or even all their bits on hand.

>> No.843628
File: 115 KB, 2320x3408, US894673-0.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
843628

>>843571
>North Bros. Yankee 1555
Dat engineering marvel. Should be one of the seven wonders of engineering. Gotta hoard them all before hipster reseller scum.

>> No.843640

>>843628
Yeah, I love mine. Don't get much opportunity to use them but they are amazing. It just blew my mind when I found one and really took a look at it. Its got two speeds, two ratcheting modes and a mode where it will drive in one direction no matter what way you turn the crank! Even if you just turn it back an forth. great for tight spaces. They sold two models: one with a three jaw chuck and one with a two jaw chuck. I have one of each. Wonderful pieces of engineering. The 100th anniversary of the patent they used is coming up in a few years.

>> No.843646

>>842892
We used to do this when we played. We printed out a bunch of grids and laminated them.

>> No.843647

Lost the base plate to my jigsaw. I guess I can buy another one but how hard would it be to make a new one myself? Is this a thing people do or should I just bite the bullet and order a new one from those ripoff parts websites? It's a Makita 4340CT.

>> No.843688
File: 1.48 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
843688

what's the most cost effective way to repair/improve this? I could really use some help

>> No.843690

>>843688
google the 50$ paint job
wet sand and buff repeat

>> No.843691

>>843688
Sand it, prime it, and paint it. 20 bucks but it will look like shit. Honestly take it to an automotive paint place and they'll probably match the paint and everything for 50 bucks.

>> No.843694

>>843691
>50 bucks

missing a zero.

>> No.843699
File: 127 KB, 424x283, OCPD.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
843699

>>830836
How do you settle on the scope of a project?

I got some training in advanced nano manufacturing and thinking of building something literally micron by micron. With specification and documentation rivaling or exceeding all international standards. Most of the decent size projects I am considering should only take me 10 years and $30,000. (mostly just for the fun of it all)
Or you know, buy a kit for less than $500 and assemble one of these things in an afternoon.
Or some combination. I already decided I am not buy whatever I build pre-built in as box, like all the lazy fools I see.

Where do you draw the line?
I can get a little obsessive at times, but it always seems to work out in the end.

>> No.843898

>>843688
Remove from car. Power sand random orbit) with medium grit. Clean with tack rag and repeat with finer grade grit until you get to about 1200. Prime with good quality aerosol primer. Hand wet sand with 2000 grit. Wash off and let dry. Prime again then repeat sanding.

Aerosol spray paint with your car colour. Wet sand by hand with 2500 grit. spray paint again but do not wet sand. aerosol spray with laquer.

About $20 for the sanding sheets and about $40-$50 for the primer, paint and laquer.

>> No.843902

>>843898
Sorry, wash off with distilled water after each wet sand.

>> No.844369

Where might I buy a cushion for upholstery about 1.5' x 2'8" x 3" that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?

I'm trying to replace the cushion in an ottoman I use.

Additional question, what is the name of the material you typically find underneath couches and chairs that are stapled into the furniture?

>> No.844375

how the fuck do you order a complete workbench on globalindustrial? I want the ESD top, square edge, two draws, computer holder, roller holder overhang, cfl overhang and the pegged backing but the parts all all strung out across the site, some of them I can't even find despite the fact the preview for the workbench page describes almost exactly what I want but I can't just order that, noooo I have to buy a million things that use a million different sizes so I'm sure to fuck up and get the wrong size

>> No.844377

is the software/firmware for those Hue lightbulbs open source? if so where can I view it? If not, does the app work on Android? It only shows pictures of iPhones. Not that I would pay 200 dollars for 3 lightbulbs, but if I could get a really good price (like, they were stolen or something, price) it might be decent to hack around with if it's possible

>> No.844391

There can I buy 60's/70's wood paneling? A google search and a visit to the hardware store only reveal new modern horse shit.

Also is there any that can be hung with minimal impact? My lease lets me paint and hang pictures and everything but I can't wallpaper so I assume I cant glue panel.

>> No.844396

I see a whole bunch of old machinist's tools at garage sales, ebay, and am kinda tempted to look into them. Is there any cheap verification service so I know what I'm getting is a-ok to use?

>> No.844456
File: 74 KB, 540x720, 506a0f19fb04d60a59000c6e._w.540_s.fit_[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
844456

>>844391
>Also is there any that can be hung with minimal impact?
Shaker wall curtains. Can be made cheaply, can use any fabric, easy to modify, cut down on drafts (their original use), can help insulate from heat/cold/noise(depending on fabric), minimal impact on wall, can easily take it with you when you go. Use you imagination on the design.

>>844396
Nope. Knowledge is power. I collect old tools and I have tons of things I shouldn't have bought. Either because they were missing parts or because they aren't well made and I was too ignorant to tell at the time. There are many websites that cover these topics. I'm mostly into woodworking tools and such but I know some good brands. Starrett, Lufkin, Brown & Sharpe, etc. Start googling, bookmarks some sites and take your smartphone with you so you can look shit up on the web.

Protips for sales:
If you aren't sure, pick the thing up and carry it around till you are. If you go back for it after you've looked it up it will be gone. Even if its heavy as fuck, carry it. If I had done that I would have scored a Wilton bullet vise in great condition for $20 while googling their name.

Show up early. Often times they let in early birds even if they say no early birds. Pisses me off but what can you do.

If stuff isn't priced pile up a bunch of stuff and make an offer on the lot. You can get deals like that.

If you see something you like but the price is too high then ask them when they will wind down and say you will be back around then to talk about the thing. I've gotten people to halve the price on stuff because its late in the day and they just want it gone.

Take a wide, low sided box with you to carry smalls and shit. I've seen professional estate operators have a pile of these at the entrance of their sales and its a great idea.

Always be polite, never get angry and don't be a jerk. Best case your just an asshole and assholes often get charged more. Worst case and you get kicked out.

>> No.844503

Really particular question.

What is the smallest radius I can bend kydex to? I need to make 90 degree bends with the smallest radius possible. I am making a bending jig now and I don't want to try and force it and make cracks.

>> No.844529
File: 1.19 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
844529

The fan in my fridge (Westinghouse RJ 392V) has gone out and I need to replace it. I've removed the screws in the back panel freezer but I can't work out how to take the panel out, picture related

>> No.844541

>>844529
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngF89wL67ko

>> No.846342

My ceiling fan is aggravating me to no end. The main light will turn off an on because I can't keep the wires connected. It's a solid core from the house and stranded from the fan. I finally found the problem and the imperceptible wobble defeats any connection I've made within months. Is there a specific way to connect these types of wire or should I try to find a way to immobilize them. The other light and the fan always works.

>> No.846647

>>846342
My ceiling fan shocks me when I touch the chain you pull to switch the light on/off

>> No.846733

>>846647
It's probably not grounded (using only two wires)
and the HOT wire is touching the frame somewhere.
Also could be bad winding in motor.

>> No.846734

>>846342
>I can't keep the wires connected.
Good quality wire nuts properly applied (with pliers).

>> No.846786

Is nail lacquer suitable to cover rust patches on a bike frame (once the rust has been removed).

>> No.846853

>>846786
It will work in a pinch but its not ideal.

>> No.846884

>>831097
It's common now. It's nearly on every board here and on reddit as well.

>> No.846916

>>836469
>2015
>go to library
Sounds like a waste of time. You can pretty much find youtube videos/instructables for any home repair project. For anything that's not obvious, your stepdad is a good last resource as you probably don't want to take up too much of his time. Nothing beats experience, but good googling skills are adequate for most things.

>> No.846926

Will I die if I drive 5/64" screws into hard maple without a pilot hole? Don't have an appropriately small drill bit for this one.

>> No.846961

>>842890
Wear hearing protection

>> No.847013

>>846926
>Will I die

You'll probably kill the screws.
(heads will break off)
Cut/grind the head off a suitable nail and use it as a bit.

>> No.847032

>>847013
this. Just snip it off with pliers/cutters and insert it into your drill and away you go.

>> No.847036

>>846926
just buy a bit ffs. This is one of those times where $5 will save you a lot of headache.

>> No.847049

Have you guys ever had to clean a chiclet style laptop keyboard before?
I did the dumbest thing ever and spilled my drink.
I did rip out the battery and mop up the fluid as quickly as possible, so the laptop didn't suffer any internal damage, but several keys on my keyboard as expected arn't working as they should.

If this were a normal keyboard I'd just pry off the keys and clean it up with q-tip, but chiclet seems to require a bit more of a delicate touch.

Could you give me some pointers?
A possibly viable idea might be to simply use distilled water and then letting it dry off completely, but I'm afraid that could cause delamination -somewhere- in the keyboard.

>> No.847051

>>847049
Remove the keys, open laptop case, remove keyboard.

Rinse with distilled water, or just do the q-tip thing, whichever makes more sense once you get a look at the keyboard.

then put it all back together.

Only real difference with taking apart a chiclet keyboard is that they're probably scissors switches, which will be a little easier to break. Just take your time popping the first couple of keys off. After that, take a good look at what the scissors mechanism looks like, so you know which direction to apply the force without breaking the scissors mech (it'll probably be in the X direction where Y is pointing towards your screen). After you get the first couple of keys down, you can go all out with the rest.

>> No.847052

I'm trying to get into woodcarving and I would like to know what the basic equipment requirement is. At the moment I'm just using a pocket knife, but that doesn't really cut it, literally.

>> No.847059

>>847051
Guess I'll have to butcher my keyboard then..
I'll be opening the laptop soon anyways, since I need to replace the thermal paste so I'll get that done on the way.

Today's a bit late to start so I just put 2 (or more if I manage to find some later) silica gel packs on the keyboard.
The drink wasn't especially sugary, so I'm still praying it's just moisture.
The behavior of the keyboard does point to that, since the defective keys do seem to change around.

If it doesn't clear up overnight, then I'll be taking your advice.

>> No.847076

if i'm going to tack an ethernet cable from one room to another, and i'm doing it to either carpet or skirting board, what's the best product to use?

also - how do you handle a door that won't close because of an ethernet cable going underneath it? i'm renting the property, so options are limited.

>> No.847081

>>840221
While that's all true, for the sake of simplicity I would just check what temperatures everything is running at (there are temp sensors in every modern hard disk and all over every modern motherboard) and not worry about mesh or anything unless shit was actually getting too hot.

>> No.847099

Which is more prevalent across all industries - AutoCAD or Solidworks?

>> No.847109

>>847099
Depends what you are doing. Solidworks is pretty popular with smaller business, AutoCAD is popular in Civil engineering though

>> No.847128

>>847109
I work in a small business that specializes in civil and mechanical engineering and I have to decide which to purchase

>> No.847210

>>847128
Try both and see. I use Solidworks but my buddy that works for a civil engineering firm uses AutoCAD. I suspect AutoCAD has more stuff geared toward civil, they've been doing it a while. Solidworks is more for assemblies and mechanical imo. It's also what your staff is most familiar with and what other people you work with use. Comparability is often a concern.

>> No.847270

>>847076
No idea about the first question, but as for the second one I'd try reducing the height by stripping the external insulation and either laying the (8?) small cables on the ground or tying them flat, possibly with a small, flat, study object to help keep them still

>> No.847299

>>830836
What kind of material should I use for my custom arcade cab?

>> No.847346

>>847299
MDF or some other fibre board and melamine. Could use plywood but the surface finishing would be harder.

>> No.847358

>>847299
MDF for sure

>> No.847370

>>847013
>>847032
Thanks anons, worked like a charm.

>> No.847568

Why do a lot of DIY router table fences have a pivot on one end with a bolt and a clamp on the other? Why not have a clamp on both ends or at least a slot on the "bolted" end instead of just a hole. That way it can slide a few inches.

I feel like I'm missing something here.

>> No.847762

if i had to secure 4 pieces of 4x4 3ft long together in a square what would be the best way. i figured lag bolts but was told they would back out over time. thoughts?

>> No.848184

>>842229
>Oddly enough, ALL the pilot lights went out a few days ago (water heater, 2 on the stove, and one on the wall heater
That can't be coincidence.

>> No.848273

>>848184
Duh, that's what pilot lights are for.

Loss of pressure at mains, pilot lights go out, pilot light sensors cool down and cut off gas.

House doesn't fill with invisible, explosive asphyxiant.

>> No.848338

>>847568

For simplicity, pivoting it a certain amount away or towards the bit is the same as sliding the entire fence. Because it's a spinning bit the fence doesn't need to stay parallel to it like a table saw fence to its blade.

>> No.848669

>>848338
Oh derp, makes perfect sense now. Thanks man.

>> No.848691

>>847762
prob just drill completely through and use carriage bolts with some washers, you could even counter bore the holes

>> No.848704

>>840358
check with the people you are recycling your cans with what state they want them in. Some insist in doing it themselves, while with a little needling will tell you how they want them crushed to make it easy on their machines.

Basically get a rolling crusher setup, or two interlocking wheels of doom. You can crush and dice alot of things with such a setup. Make it yourself at your own peril. Solid metal rods, attach round wheels of metal with notches in them. Space the wheels just between each other on two separate rods. Connect said rods to each other with gears and away you go.

>> No.848707

>>843542
All those "blankets" are is a layer of insulation between the heater and the environment. Overlap the standard ones, cut out openings for the vents, emergency flush/release, gas, and pipes. INSULATE THOSE PIPES!! Get that brown/black insulating plastic/rubber insulation and use that on all the hot piping coming out of it as far as you can go. It will help retain heat in your pipes, reduce waiting for hot water, cost to heat, and help to prevent condensation and such. Do the same for the cold water lines as well to help prevent shock/cracking during the winter as cold water enters your warm home.

>> No.848747
File: 72 KB, 1024x682, box.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
848747

I want to make a wooden box with a hinge for the lid like the one pictured. The problem is, I only want about 120 degrees range of movement, or thereabouts. How do I stop the lid from continuing to "open" past the point where I'd like it to stop?

I get the feeling there's a very obvious solution that I'm missing.

>> No.848749

>>848747

Attach strings/metal plates at the edges that prevent the lid from going further than 120 degrees?

>> No.848772

>>848749
Or even small chain.

>> No.848971
File: 14 KB, 500x300, idea.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
848971

>>848747
instead of completely rounding over the top of the hinge, leave a little tab sticking up at the desired angle

>> No.849027
File: 1.05 MB, 1280x800, 177519468.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849027

>>848747

>> No.849261
File: 10 KB, 400x400, 15449.M3343_4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849261

I have one of these valves on the utility sink in my basement. I'm guessing the plastic nut is broken or ground down because when I turn it nothing happens.

I know nothing about plumbing. When I unscrew the mounting screw the water starts to come out of the faucet. Am I safe to unscrew it fully or will the whole thing explode once the screw comes out?

>> No.849312
File: 62 KB, 720x540, 182T30_B.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849312

Cloning an amplifier.
Only thing left to figure out is the power transformer.
Original company wrapped their own, so I'm trying to reverse deduce something compatible that will work.
Mains in, +-40 AC out (that's 80V with a center tap if I'm understanding this correctly).
The whole amp should pull 700W at `rated output'.

What does this mean for the transformer power rating? Does it need to be at least 700W[VA] as well?
Why is the rated current for the primary never specified? Is it always just assumed to be able to handle it based on the rating of the secondary?
If the secondary output is +-40V, is the current figured by 700W/40V because it's all AC or 700W/80V because that's the total potential?
More generally, does this imply a coil ratio of 3:1 (120:40/240:80) or 3:2 (120:80)?

Is Hammond the best transformer brand?
Is this way overkill or the one I should buy? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/182V40/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwUzoUXIIvyQPvPmwnNFGyC3HMAk3oIMg%3d

I've never built anything with a transformer like this before, and the real world way they do this is still confusing to me.
Just trying to make sense of it all.
Thank you for any help you can offer.

>> No.849325

>>849261
a picture of the entire setup would be helpful, if possible
is that the knob right on the faucet? if so yeah the plastic is prob shot and a new one will be needed

see if there is a shutoff valve further up the line to shut off water to the faucet so you can change the knob easily

>> No.849353
File: 269 KB, 750x1334, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849353

70s clock radio. I can hear sound from the speaker but it's very weak and "unamplfied" even at full volume it's a whisper. What's the most common culprit?

>> No.849375
File: 1019 KB, 3264x1836, P_20150728_031043.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849375

>>849325
This is how it is now, the above picture is the replacement I already got.

When I try and take the screw out the water comes out of the faucet like mad, and it drips a lot just past the red handle. If I try to hold it steady with some pliers it starts dripping even more.

The things is connected directly to the hot water tank, there no shut off. How the hell do I fix this?

>> No.849377

>>849375
The building will have a master shutoff.
And if somehow there's not there surely will be one outside where the main enters from the street.
Right?...
How old is this place?

>> No.849381
File: 4 KB, 399x283, lm380.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849381

>>849353

probably quicker to hack it than fix it. wire up an LM386 amp circuit, connect input to volume pot and output to speaker. use LM380, or whatever, if the 386 is too weak.

>> No.849397
File: 17 KB, 285x214, tape mold.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849397

>inspect old cassette tapes and vhs in storage for reminiscing
>see this
wat do ?

>> No.849400

>>849397
With a tape that far gone? Bin it.

>> No.849403
File: 38 KB, 210x210, doitfaggot.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849403

>>849397
try and play it
post results

>> No.849428
File: 45 KB, 777x510, Box.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849428

Anyone know where I can find some blueprints or a good place for references of this box?
I can't seem to find any pictures of info from their website.

Heres the video they talk a bit more about the box towards the end of it too.
https://youtu.be/-vVblGlIMgw?list=PLJtitKU0CAehsdcybehbPFHObmWsKtQcY

>> No.849429

>>837341
1. maybe, will it make it louder/better nope
2.again maybe i have gear that ive accidentally switched power supplies on and it worked it got a bit warmer but it wasnt on for more then a few minutes at a time

>> No.849430

>>837962
mouse trap?

>> No.849432

>>833435
I think he meant type of living space you dumb cut

If you live in an RV then fugedabowtit

>> No.849433

>>841172
dont use stainless it can leach nickle and chrome is the rest of your weber stainless? to cut it get some airplane snips or a nibbler

>> No.849481

Hello,
I have a 5.5V 120mA solar panel, can I hook it directly to a USB to charge my phone? Or would it hurt the phone or the battery?
I have a spare lm7805 but the dropout is 2V (the input would be 5.5 and output 5V), can I use it to make sure the output will be 5V? If the dropout is under 2V what would happen?
Thanks

>> No.849499

>>849381
cool thanks I'll see what I can do

>> No.849513

>>849481

nope. your solar panel does not put out 5.5V except under ideal conditions, so 98% of the time it would be useless as a charger. a better idea would be to charge an external battery pack made for the very purpose, and use that as a USB charger for a phone, or any 5V device.

>> No.849519

>>849513
Thanks, I would also use it to power some usb gadgets.
Do you know anything about my other questions about the lm7806?

>> No.849524

>>849519
>>849519
sorry, >>849513
meant 7805

>> No.849549

>>849519

the output drops accordingly. so 7V in = 5V out. 6V in = 4V out. 5V in = 3V out, etc.

>> No.849551

>>849549
Thanks a lot!

>> No.849677

>>849377
Since the line comes straight from the hot water tank I assume that the water will keep coming out even if the main is shut off?

Anyways I also discovered that the main shutoff uses the same type of handle and doesn't turn properly either...

>> No.849754
File: 61 KB, 1024x768, page11.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849754

Does anybody know what this kind of ceiling is called?

The ones with metal frameworks and foam tiles to allow cables to be easily routed?

>> No.849757

>>849754
suspending ceiling
acoustical tiles
drop ceiling

source: architect

>> No.849766

>>849757
Thanks, anon.

>> No.849794
File: 103 KB, 1782x718, powersupply2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849794

>>849312
Update - I'd forgot to consider that the ratings are RMS and not peak.
I think http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/1182U30/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7tzTDjgBcipVOQ4OZkf5x4mtu2fnxels%3d might be the one I want.

60V center tapped will give me (* 30 (sqrt 2)) => 42.5V rails.
1000VA is well above my 700W requirement.
Current through each secondary should then be 11.7A - Well under the 16.7A rating.

Is all this right?
Pic related is what I'm trying for if that helps.

>> No.849872

>>849353
Have you checked the speaker?
Press gently on the cone just at the dust cap.
If it 'grinds' it has a warped voice coil or trash in it,
If it's smooth, connect a low voltage momentarily to the terminals.
At 3 - 9 volts it should make a pretty good popping sound.

Clean the volume control.

>> No.849892
File: 1005 KB, 1518x964, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849892

So I'm designing a layout for these power supplies.
Currently I'm going with a cock 'n balls layout with a 5V 26A power supply and a 12V 26A power supply separated by a power strip

But what if I just stacked the power supplies one of top of the other to save space?

I don't see any reason I shouldn't, other than to offend people that see dicks everywhere

>> No.849894

>>849892
Yeah, nevermind. I remembered why I was going with the cock 'n balls layout. Would shift the center of gravity higher if I was forced to move components higher up to compensate.

>> No.850860
File: 18 KB, 320x426, 320x480[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
850860

My current desk is some board plus four thin Ikea legs, it tends to shake when it's not in perfect sync with my closet and the wall.
So I'd like to build a new sturdy one with no extras whatsoever, just the board plus whatever is necessary to support everything.
Can anyone help me out? I don't know how to make a desk sturdy.

Also: I found a guide (picture related) for a sturdy desk with some pipes online. Will this be sturdy?

>> No.850940
File: 8 KB, 276x276, cross brace.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
850940

>>850860

i have two ikea tables with the gray 2-inch diameter screw-in legs and they're solid as fuck coz they're jammed against other things and weighted down with lots of equipment.

if you cant duplicate that, just consider getting a cross-brace screwed into the back legs. those things are like magic.

>> No.850978
File: 1.42 MB, 500x2500, concretecoffeetable.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
850978

>>850860
You want a sturdy table?
Nothin better than concrete.

>> No.851389
File: 1.23 MB, 986x1752, 2015-07-31 14.01.15.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
851389

I'm not a /diy/ regular and I hate asking other boards for this stuff, but sometimes Google a shit. What's the best way to get a straight razor shave-ready on the cheap? I don't want to restore it to looking shiny and new and profesional, I just want to stop dropping so much damn cash on modern razor blades. Pic related, it's the one I picked up from a friend.