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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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834200 No.834200 [Reply] [Original]

Trying to learn to weld
cbf spamming images so I made imgur album
http://imgur.com/a/fYAVv

>pic semi-related, some random other person's weld at the maker space.

>> No.834210

>>834200
This site is great for teaching yourself
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

>> No.834217

>>834210
Cool, saw a couple of their vids but not their website. Not a huge amount on flux core which is what I have available unfortunately. I've watched a ton of vids so I'm hoping people can give feedback on my work, pointing out what's wrong and such.

>> No.834232

>>834217

Flux will almost always look like garbage... I think learning to weld on stick is much superior and cheaper.

>> No.834235

I've started teaching myself since May. Went with stick after to talking to several welders. My stuff is looking fair, one guy was surprised mine was better than his, and he was trained, experienced welder. I'll take that compliment any day. Don't show off your work to non welders, they've all been jerks to me, only show experienced welders, they'll usually just give pointers if it isn't perfect. I do have the thinnest rod down, still working on the thicker rod. Just figured out they need different speed.

>> No.834253

>>834200
>http://imgur.com/a/fYAVv

the flat beads look fine.

the actual joining stuff doesnt look good, you need more heat. inside corners are always pretty hard with any process. are you sure you have the polarity right? remember flux core is backwards from MIG.

id recommend sticking to flux core wire welding because it's super cheap and portable and lots of penetration and its fast. not super pretty though.
if you want pretty, use MIG or TIG.

stick is retarded unless you're doing huge things. giant mess.

>> No.834506

>>834200
Quickly reviewed pics. I basically agree with your assessment of others work (and this pic): too cold. Really doesn't matter if it's prepped if there isn't enough heat.

I've a Lincoln mig/flux core, and use the latter for most work b/c it's 110V and flux core is hotter. 1/8" lap and T welds look good with at hottest setting. Any more than that you need 220V, and at that point might as well run mig... it's so much nicer to work with.

>> No.834511

>>834200
can you knock off the slag next time you take a picture?

Looks like you could use a little more heat.

I personally love tig welding myself. its just so easy for me to do. I actually like it more then MIG.

>> No.834514

>>834200
I really enjoy oxy welding, is it worth buying a kit if I already have a shitbox mig machine? is it practical?

>> No.834515

Thanks for the comments guys

>>834232
Considering all I have to spend is on consumables since I'm just using equipment at the maker space, I think flux core is actually cheaper than buying sticks but I'll try both since I can.

>>834235
Not sure why I'd even bother showing to non-welders but tends to be the case when u get criticism from people that have no idea for welding or any skilled practice. I'll be giving stick a go.

>>834253
Good to know I'm not fucking the flat beads too much. The joining stuff wasn't my doing but I put it there so people can comment on it and I can learn. I'll be sure to double check polarity next time. I might also try get a scratch start TIG lead and some gas to do some MIG and TIG once I get bored of flux core and stick.

>>834506
Cool, good to see I'm not too far off. I'm getting message prep doesn't really matter quite so much when you're using fluxed and slagged processes. I'm also in AUS so everything is 240V by default.

>>834511
That's actually some other person's weld that was sitting in the shop so I didn't want to touch it. Surprising you say TIG is the easiest. Most comments I hear is that it's the hardest but different people are better at different things I suppose.

>> No.834516

Also found this helpful vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iD7Y57gK3yU
I think I was also not letting the wire stick out a bit, the slag covering I was getting wasn't very good.

>> No.834590

>>834515
>Not sure why I'd even bother showing to non-welders but tends to be the case when u get criticism from people that have no idea for welding or any skilled practice. I'll be giving stick a go.
Just something I ran into, because I have friends who like looking at my DIY stuff, but welding for some reason caused some snags with a couple of them. One buddy talked about learning to weld the same time I was starting to think about it. So after I got going and he didn't, I figured I'd show him a sample of my stuff to maybe tug him into it. Instead he just told me how crappy it looked to him. He retired from a shop where he saw a lot of machine welding, and I guess I was suppose to match what he saw using stick. It won't ever happen because it's stick. So now I only show my stuff to my two buddies who mastered stick and mig welding. They've been quite helpful, but just like this thread, they both told me opposite answers to your very question when I was asking it.

>> No.834718

Best welder on youtube

Stick, mig, tig he does it all

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thIqfjFwuAY

>> No.834936

>>834718
Okay, who is he? I watched a few minutes and no idea who he is.

>> No.834976

>>834718
idk, he admits himself he isn't the best welder and there are plenty of other veteran welders on youtube with really top notch welding. No one else makes/edits videos quite as well as him tho.

>> No.835012

get proficient at mig then save up to get a power source over 250 amps and some 90/10 gas to do some hektik spray arc action

>> No.835028

>>834200

Save yourself the time and effort and just use a grinder to prep your plate. As matter of fact if you're just doing practice pads you don't need to knock the mill scale off and you most certainly don't need to wipe it with acetone unless you suspect that you had paint or brake cleaner on the metal.
What wire were you using and what were your settings?

>> No.835049

>>835028
I guess I'll save my self some time with prep next time then. Wire was some generic crap from a big chain DIY warehouse, I don't think it even had a rating and I can't remember the settings but the markings next to the knobs were just 0-10 and letters so not sure there's much use in listing them.

>> No.835321

>>835049

For flux core and mig the settings are the most important thing if you want clean good penetrating welds.

>> No.835580

Did some more welding today. Forgot camera tho so no pics. I kept getting welds with like no slag cover just a tiny bit on the sides which was really hard to get off and a dark splotch down the middle-ish area. Tried changing wire feed, voltage, angle and stick out but that didn't change much just ended up getting the normal associated problems from having those things too far out. Could it just be shit wire? I hope not, I bought a 4.5 kg reel.

Also did a tiny bit of stick, just kept sticking it ffs. Need to scratch it down then across right?

>> No.835627
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835627

Anyone want some gore?

>> No.835630

>>835627
> /o/ builds a turbo manifold

>> No.835635

>>834253
FCAW is absolutly not reverse polarity and a proper FCAW after the flux has been chipped away will always look better then stick

>> No.835640

>>835580
>shit wire
did you buy dualshield instead of gasless?
>sticking it
which sticks, what welder, what settings?

>> No.835676

>>835580
>Also did a tiny bit of stick, just kept sticking it ffs. Need to scratch it down then across right?
I feel that's the hardest hurdle on stick welding. Amateur stick welding anon here, I'm using the cheap HF stick welder with only a flip switch for settings, and pretty much it was just getting the feel of it to stop sticking. A couple days ago, I started having sticking issues again, and got frustrated. Turns out it was because it from using a strong magnate from a microwave to hold the material causing my problem. It was pulling the rod into the work. I do scratch on my vice before starting the weld, mostly because the thinner rod takes a little longer to heat up. Before I started that, I was just tapping it against the work, waiting for something to happen, then it just sticks.

>> No.835686

>>835640
Definitely gasless:
http://www.gasweld.com.au/mig-wire-flux-core-9mmx4-5kg-e71t-gs-standard-roll-gasless-welding-wire
the machine is high quality Lincoln 180c

Sticks: some no name 6011, some crappy variac adjustable buzzer, I think I had the slider indicator thing to 2mm, it doesn't have proper amp/voltage markings

>> No.835690

>>835676
Wow, guess striking the arc is really iffy. I'll practise some more and see where I get.

>> No.835749
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835749

>>834511
Tig is nice but it feels like im doing arts and crafts with grandma...i go with mig or smaw myself. I like the fire lol.

>> No.836206

>>835627
Im dying over here.
You said gore.. not rage/cringe.

>> No.836243

New to welding, I want to repair metal gates and girders, what type of welder do I use?

>> No.836263

>>834200
Nigger you're holding your stick too far away from the metal, and that's why you have so much spatter.

If you're flux-core welding, the wire length coming out of your gun should not be longer than a half-inch.

>> No.836267

>>834718
hahahah I love this guy (even though his stick welding tutorial contains far too much tongue clicking).

>> No.836268
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836268

Anybody else love this guy and wish he was your uncle?

>> No.836373

>>836243
>gates
rust is not a weldable material.
>girders
see above. also any girder with rivets will likely be unweldable cast or wrought iron.

>> No.836426

>>836373
Doesn't mean the gate is beyond repair. Gate could be damaged without rust, or just have a rusty corner that could be cut out and new steel welded in place. But then it wouldn't be ignorant internet answers if someone didn't make a blanket statement that holes can be poked through.

>> No.836531

>>836268
good ol Steve

>> No.836548

>>836243

MIG is what I see used most often for that type of work.

>>836263

You'd be surprised how much stickout you can get away with especially when welding vertical.

>> No.836708
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836708

Did some more practise today, tried to weld some square tube. Using the same MIG and ER71T-GS flux-core wire. This is the only weld I didn't burn through.

>> No.836709
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836709

Still have the issue with lack of slag covering on all the welds though. They pretty much all look like this at best. A thin layer on the sides with no covering on top.

>> No.836712
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836712

>>836709
Here is it with the slag off. There is always some slag at the very edges which is really hard to get off.

>> No.836714
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836714

Also did practise with the stick. Striking is always really hard to begin with but once the electrode 'warms up' after the first strike or sticking the electrode a few times it strikes really easily. Is that normal or crappy maybe moist electrodes?

>> No.836720

im accidentally a very good welder due to being a boily/fitter machinist bad welds are funny

>> No.836742

>>836426
he didn't make any effort so why should i

>> No.836792

>>836720
Good thing too, cuz you sure as shit ain't a writer.

>> No.836935

>>836708

>burning through on a MIG

try a lower advance rate? alternatively your current is too high for your chosen material thickness.

I'll be honest, I'm spitballing. TIG is my area.

>> No.837006

>>836714
Pretty much have been my experience. Once it's hot, it's ready. You do need to slow down to get a better bead. With stick you have to watch the puddle and pace your hand to it, because your hand has to get closer in order to feed the rod, unlike MIG.

>> No.837017

>>836709
>>836712
>>836714

It looks like you have the basic concept of running a bead down but the reason your welds look so ass is because the settings on your shitty welder are fucked up.

>> No.837040

>>836714
Electrodes from an oven always strike and weld better initially than room temp rods.

>> No.837137
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837137

Looking for specific critique on what to improve on in my welds.

>>836935
Thanks, I think it the voltage might have got too high once the piece warmed up but otherwise I think it was too slow travel speed.

>> No.837141
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837141

>>837006
Awesome, thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to remember that when I try running beads today.

>> No.837146
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837146

>Pic is attempted tack up

>>837017
I swear I've tried fucking around with every possible combination of settings and travel speed and gun angle and stick out and I can't get it any better. Any specific ideas?

>> No.837149
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837149

>Here is my burn through

>>837040
Alright, I'm probably just being shit then. Any tips on how to practise cold starts? I think I might just get a bunch of rods and switch between them.

>> No.837262

>>837149
you burned through because you pointed the arc at the wrong direction. the cut tube end cannot get rid of the heat and then the wire stabs through. the un-cut tube can take more heat because it has more metal around the weld puddle.
angle your gun down into the un-cut tube to direct the arc force away from the cut tube, and with a tiny (millimeters) weaving motion bring the puddle up to barely nip at the cut tube.

>> No.837276
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837276

Corner welded some steel angles together into a tube then cross-sectioned it. No slag inside it appears so I guess I just have some non/low slagging wire? Also in bottom right you can see a thin crack, I guess that was not enough heat/time melt properly?

>>837262
Sweet tip, thanks! I'll try that next time.

>> No.837278
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837278

Got the cross sectioned pieces then tried welding them together. On one side there was no groove so I cut pic related out with an angle grinder, does that look about right? It was a bit more than half the thickness.

>> No.837279
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837279

>>837278
Here it is with the bead in. The surface is pretty much flat and so were the faces on all the other welds so I guess that means I need greater wire feed? It should be slightly convex right?

>> No.837342

>>836268
Hoooo Leee Shieeeet, haven't seen him in a long time.

>> No.837872
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837872

>>837262
Just as you said. No burn through this time.

>> No.838010

>>837872
very good work anon. instant improvement.

time to practice on cut edges butted together, this is what you'll be doing for rusted car bodies, exhausts, lawn tractor bag frames, all sorts of little repairs.

butted edges with varying gaps and crappy alignment is easy with mig compared to the other processes and you should master it quite quickly.

do it wrong deliberately with too much power and see how the puddle sinks then falls out with a splash. you can develop "spider senses tingling" that the puddle is overheated and know when to pause for a cool down.

for very thin material under a millimeter you can weld as a series of tacked spots but that's very slow, and the whole point of mig is to go fast. practice to keep the arc lit for as long as possible without blowing through.

>> No.838102

> not allowed to have my phone with me on the floor
> can't take pictures of my welds

Oh well.

>> No.838269

>>835627
Im taking welding classes now and I see shit like this all the time. I have no idea how people manage to fuck up like this. Like Im no expert but if thats what my shit was looking like I would be like wtf am I doing wrong.

>> No.838275

>>838269
I'm teaching myself, and I'm the same way. I'd rather get pissed at myself, cut & grind it, and start over.

>> No.838356

>>838010
Awesome! Thanks heaps man. I was wondering what to work on next. I might also try vertical and overhead soon too.

>> No.838384

What equipment do you guys use at home? Especially the ones teaching it to themselves.
From the videos it looks rather doable, as in one day practice and you get the idea, but what I read here and there and especially in this thread makes it seem like i wont be able to make a good-looking weld in the first few days after starting to try things out

>> No.838385
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838385

Uh since there's some welders around.

Anyone know about welding Platinum to Gold? For jewellery. But best example for what I was looking for was pen nibs.

Something about resistance(spot) or laser welding?

Someguy posted a video, where a guy would tap an electrode(?) to little pieces of Platinum on a graphite block and they would zap and melt tiny into balls/spheres.

Then take a piece of gold in the same electrode/tongs and weld it to the platinum ball. It would zap/pop.

What kind of welder would it be? The unit didn't look much bigger than say 2 large fullsize desktop side by side.

>> No.838390

>>838385
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVdU0Q_-tFo

this. someone actually made boards and plans for a capacitor based pulse tig welder for battery tabs i think was the point.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PPvtOW3Xpk

>> No.838398

>>834515
Considering you have a 180C, I can tell you right now that a very good indication for what settings to use is on the inside of the wire feeder door.
You will probably find that the recommended wire feed speed seems very slow however that is correct and you need to have a slower travel speed to get the correct bead appearance.
what brand of wire are you using?
are you still using thee factory 100L torch?
Hows your gun angle when welding?

>> No.838401

>>838269
I think it might be because people are super scared and nervous. When I got the stick welder out first time I was like "ahh fk, aaah fk me" but then I was like "wait wtf am I doing" and I started being more controlled. Some other people especially those with less experience working with power tools and stuff would be far worse I imagine.

>>838384
So as before I'm using public/shared equipment at my local maker space which saves me having to buy my own, Lincoln 180C MIG which seems to work well and for stick I'm using some piece of shit Aldi brand AC buzz box which I would not recommend since it just overheats and shuts off constantly (me constantly sticking electrodes probably doesn't help too) so I can't get a lot of practise on it.

I think all manual skilled work like welding takes time and practise. I felt like I had a pretty good idea of how to weld in theory before starting but I think it's gonna take some time to develop the muscle memory and precision to weld as easily as the pros in videos. I'm at about 5 days experience since my first post which was my first time welding if that gives you an idea.

>>838385
I think jewellers also solder instead of weld so maybe that's worth looking for.

>> No.838403

>>838398
Fair enough, I do kinda feel like i'm not getting enough wire in.
Wire is "Toolex" here:
>>835686
Using the included 100L gun with the gasless tip cover thingo.
Gun angle is like 40 drag and 20 work angle from vertical.

>> No.838404
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838404

>>835686
The electrodes were actually 6013 btw

>> No.838406
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838406

>>838403
Also wire label

>> No.838418

>>838403
Toolex is shit, why because i've never heard of it. Hobart fabsheild, Weldclass gasless and Liquid arc steelcore are all some of the best general purpose gasless wires available in Australia. If you really want to get fancy buy some NR-211MP
Like i say your running 0.9mm wire (0.35'') have a look in the wirefeeder door for what approximate settings are required for the thickness of metal you are welding, I know what its like mate i have a SP-170T and have used many 180C's and the wire feed speed seems really slow and power feels low but the travel speed is slow too and always gives me a good bead appearance with good quality weld deposit.
All wires are roughly the same price, if you can get it for less than 70-75 inc GST you're going well for a 4.5kg spool 0.9mm
The 180C is an absolute brilliant welder, the magnum 100L torch however is a piece of shit, if you do a job that warrants it buy a profax 200/250A torch with a tweco #4 bayonet connection will go straight in and consumables are much better.

>> No.838422

>>838404
They're just normal old GPs, Your welder is shit which is why the electrodes are hard to start. Your electrodes are shit too so that isn't helping the cause. Probably the most popular GP rods are either WIA rods or Kobelco RB-26's, i have heard mixed opinions about Cigweld and Lincoln rods.
2mm rods need fuckall amperage so make sure you haven't got too much current, also 2mm rods aren't designed to do heavy welds so dont expect too much from them.

>> No.838448

>>838418
>>838422
Thanks mate, great to get advice and opinions from another Australian. I have no idea what the good and bad brands are in Australia. You know any good suppliers? All I've checked is BOC, Gasweld and Bunnings and most of the 4.5 kg wire was all $100+ maybe I'll check the local private welding supplies shop. Do you reckon its even worth getting some good wire and electrodes if all I'm doing is practising? Is it really gonna fk me up or just force me to get better to deal with it?

>> No.838471

Hi, I would like to start welding, I've been searching info and so far everything is going well.

Where I'm finding problems is choosing which welder to buy, from my research I decided that the best option is an upgradable MIG welder. But I don't know what would be the right specifications for the welder.
I would like something that could weld at least 1/8inch. I don't care about the duty cycle since I won't be doing huge projects.

>> No.838517
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838517

>>838390
thanks.

looks expensive though. the video I saw didn't use gas or anything.

Like it held the gold piece in pair of small tongs, and he'd touch it to the platinum piece on a copper(?) block, and they'd just weld when they touched.

The block had a wire running from it, not sure if it was hooked up to the welder or just a ground?
>>838401
soldering isn't an option sadly.

>> No.838537

>>838448
no point in getting better quality rods for an aldi special. wait until you've got access to a stronger machine.
arc's best learnt with bigger rods, 2mm aren't nice to use they have a lot of slag and not a lot of metal, you can't see what's going on, you're doing faith-based welding, it goes wrong but you can't tell why. so it's no good for learning.

a 4mm 6013 at ~180A has a puddle the size of your thumbnail which is much easier to read.
you'll see some impressive heat distortion too, you can shrink bearing races or banana an i-beam.

>>838471
reckon you need about 150 amps. 180 amps would be about as much as you can get from a 220V supply. but what part of a mig is 'upgradable'?

>> No.838584

>>836714
looks cold, use more amps.

>> No.838638

>>838448
Fuck bunnings, fuck BOC. where are you? go on to lincoln/wia's website and have a look where their distributors are. Fuck blackwoods too but you might not have a choice, probably get a quote off them to find out if they're reaming you or not.
As the other bloke said forget about your stick welder as you're already pushing shit up hill.
Your little lincoln is excellent and once you get the hang of it it'll lay some great beads. Like I say maybe down the track buy a decent torch for it, more ergonomic and higher duty cycle.

>> No.838694

>>838537
My bad upgradable to MIG*, something that can use flux-core or has the option use shielding gas.

Between my choice is the Hobart 500559, but I'm open to suggestions and will keep looking.

I will keep in mind the amperage.

>> No.838819

>>838537
Yeah it really does put down a shit ton of slag for the size of bead. I guess I'll focus on MIG for now till I can get a non-shit machine.

Got a local guy selling this TIG/MMA brand new for $630:
http://www.weldsmart.com.au/welding-australia/tig-welders/weldsmart-200-amp-acdc-pulse-tig-stick-welder-arc
Look worthwhile?

>>838638
Looks like just Blackwoods and the local private. Not a huge amount of industrial going on in the ACT unfortunately. Blackwood is $72.45 exc GST which I have to pay since I don't have a job.

>> No.838852
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838852

I've been teaching myself with a BX100B 100 amp stick welder. Its shit tier. I get all my metal as scrap. I have been driving around to farmers and asking to pick from their junk piles. Most give it for free.

I have been using 3/32" 6011 rods, and it is actually able to weld quarter inch steel. For instance, here is my first real weld (not counting just learning how to strike). It is quarter inch angle iron. It also was the first time I ever cut steel with an angle grinder.

>> No.838853
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838853

>>838852
Next, I welded together 2 pieces of 1/4" plate steel. I just want a surface to work on. I am going to add angle iron supports and a straightedge at the back.

>> No.838859

>>838852
>>838853
Looks a bit cold, I think its supposed to be a continuous bead with maybe a bit of rippling, not so blobby. Same with the plate looking quite uneven despite grinding. Might be a bit hard to crank it up if it's only a 100 amp machine tho.

>> No.838866

>>838859
The plates were covered in rust. Like completely.

>> No.838991

>>838819
That TIG is a waste of time mate, they'll sell it to you, once they've sold their pallet of chinese shit they'll shut their business and there's a good chance your china special will shit it's self and yes its in warranty oh hang on the company doesn't exist and local big name service agent don't want to touch it.

That price isn't too bad but could be better. what wire are they trying to flog you?
whos the local private??

>> No.839004 [DELETED] 

>>838991
I looked for some reviews and there's a bunch of people that have said it was pretty decent a few years back. You anything good for AC TIG?

Wire was Horbart fabshield 21B and the local shop is all M&G Industrial:
http://www.mgis.com.au/
Website's carked it recently, hopefully the business hasn't.

Also gonna do my first welding that actually matters tomorrow, using some gal fencing tube non the less. Hopefully the 3M respirator is up to it and I can get some light wind.

>> No.839006

>>838991
I looked for some reviews and there's a bunch of people that have said it was pretty decent a few years back. You know anything good for AC TIG?

Wire was Horbart fabshield 21B and the local shop is called M&G Industrial:
http://www.mgis.com.au/
Website's carked it recently, hopefully the business hasn't.

Also gonna do my first welding that actually matters tomorrow, using some galvenised fencing tube non the less. Hopefully the 3M respirator is up to it and I can get some light wind.

>> No.839015

>>835630
'Fuck it, that'll hold till the new owner gets it home'

>> No.839027

>>838866
6011 will go through rust no problem
>>839006
nothing wrong with that GTAW machine for hobby purposes but why are you so bent on getting an AC machine? unless you plan on welding aluminum its useless and unless you have someone to show you how weld aluminum it will be very difficult on your own

>> No.839028

>>839027
I know, I mean that's what the puckering on the entire plate is. Its the valleys in the rust were left after grinding.

The real issue was that I simply don't have the power to produce nice welds on 1/4" steel. I can make it hold enough for something like this, but its far from ideal.

>> No.839029

>>839027
I really wanna learn ally no matter what it takes and make beautiful beautiful beads. I'll try getting in contact with people when I get the chance. Showing people I have the dedication to master MIG and stick will help I hope.

>> No.839163

>>839029

If you're dead set on teaching yourself then at least do some gas welding first just so you get used to feeding filler metal and working on thin stuff.

>> No.839214

>>839006
I wouldn't worry about reviews, these things are a copy of a copy of a copy, they are all almost identical inside. Anyway look they aren't that bad when their welding but as i said forget about warranty, if it breaks down it goes in the bin. They're good when they're working but thats all.

That price isn't too bad but there is room to move i can tell you that right now. Give M&G a call see what brand they're flogging and price.

Like i say use the guide on the wirefeeder door it is great for getting started.

>> No.839236

>>834232

what the fuck are you talking about? T-9 wire and a good gas mix leaves a great looking, smooth bead with excellent penetration. It's a lot better than a 7018 rod in many situations. Self-shielding flux-cored wires are generally pretty terrible looking though.

>> No.839241

>>835321

choice of gas has a huge influence too. for flux core, wire choice is hugely important

>> No.839246

>>836373

cast and wrought iron can be welded, but it's very tricky. Nickel rods work well for cast, but you have to pein the shit out of it, and if you are welding up a crack, you have to drill both ends of the crack, or else it will just grow larger as the piece cools

>> No.839477
File: 1.91 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8881.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
839477

Here is the finished tamper I built today.

>> No.839478
File: 1.65 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8879.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
839478

>>839477
I think I fked the settings a bit. So much spatter.

>> No.839482
File: 1.74 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8874.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
839482

>>839478
The two bead on the rib to tube I tried to do uphill vertical. Didn't go so well was you can see, all lumpy and really convex also got a hole. I just lay the work piece down and did the rest in a flat position. Any tips? Maybe I should have angled upwards more and turned down wire and voltage?

>> No.839484
File: 1.51 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8877.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
839484

>>839482
Least amount of spatter in this corner. I think I had wire feed a touch low for the others so arc length got a bit long and spattered everywhere.

>> No.839486
File: 1.82 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8842.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
839486

>>839484
Also tried bevelling the ribs where they welded to the tube to try get better penetration without burning through the tube. Tube was 3mm and ribs were 6mm thick. I don't think I had a chance of burning through the tube in retrospect. Was it a worthwhile?

>> No.839488
File: 1.72 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8850.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
839488

>>839486
Here is the failed verticals again. When welds meet in a corner do you want to weld into or away from the corner?

>> No.839714
File: 75 KB, 800x540, fbwcwhpi.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
839714

>>839488
it's best not to start or stop a mig weld at a stress point, because starts are cold with low penetration and stops leave a crater.
personally i'd do pic related, work positioned so it's one easy horizontal fillet, start and end the weld out past the points of the rib so there's less chance of a crack starting at the flex points.


generally you'll want to start at the thinner end and move towards the thicker end, because heat builds up around your puddle. it's like having someone slowly creeping your power dial up as you weld. if you're on autopilot you might even melt the end off the plate.

>> No.839828

>>839478

are you using flux core for that? Gasless flux core wire can throw a lot of spatter, so can shielded wire using low argon, or straight CO2. As for stick, some rods, like 6011 and 6013 can be spattery as fuck. Polarity can make a difference too, depending on the rod.

>> No.840088

>>839714
Ok, that makes a lot of sense. I think I burned through the edges of the ribs by welding into the end rather than past them

>>839828
This was all gasless MIG and I definitely had the polarity correct but considering I messed with the settings a bit and made welds with more splatter and welds with less I'm gonna say it was more or less my fault for making it so bad.

>> No.840125

>>839828
>>840088
It is your fucking fault, and you've been told already not to let your wire feed extend itself too long (half-inch max for flux core)--but no, your dumb ass keeps making the same stupid mistake, you keep your gun too far away from your work--hence your gross looking spatter filled welds.

>> No.840168

>>840088
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZDUxZD7GwE
have you watched this yet?

>> No.840211
File: 34 KB, 1280x720, gotabadass.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840211

>>840125

>> No.840256

>>840125
Fuck you, I had it so close I stuck the fucking contact tip.

>>840168
Yep awesome vid.

>> No.840262

>>840125
Bitch dat weld u commented on wasn't even mine if u foken read.

>> No.840664

>>840256
Aus lincoln bloke back here mate, those welds on your stick-on-a-plate dont look that bad really. They could be better but it's not like welding is your day job remember.

Also that electrical stickout is too close to the job btw but i think you know that.

I dont know why you need to play with the settings so much, as i have said before that table on the wirefeeder door is a great place to start and you do not need to deviate 1 unit either side of the recommended setting.
ie if it requires volts of C and wfs of 2.5 dont set it to E, 6 because you want to weld faster, doesn't work like that.

If the reason is because the thickness is more than whats on the table, use the highest setting for biggest thickness for your wire size as that is the limit of your wire, you gotta remember that flux cored wire typically has a lower wire feed speed and flux core naturally has less actual metal because it is flux cored. Saying all that means that flux cored 0.9mm does not equal solid cored 0.9mm mig wire, with solid wire you can just keep laying it in but flux cored is limited.

>> No.840680

>>840664
Okay, cool. I'll remember that for next time, makes sense with how the settings fit the wire size too. The thicknesses weren't on the table and I was welding all sorts of different thicknesses together so I thought I might want to bump it up a bit above the settings for the lower thickness. I didn't go more than 0.5 of a setting tho.

Also helped a guy making a chassis for his battle bot today. Dodgey frame made of angle iron. The fit up was really bad and the welds ended up pretty shit but he didn't mind. When I did the weld I found I had to like direct the wire/arc at one edge so it got melted and blown into the other edge.

>> No.840685

>>840680
It's so hard to explain how to weld mate, I'm finding it hard to help you out much more as I don't know your background, general knowledge etc etc the easiest way is to show you (i can't help you there i'm in tassie) but what i can say is practice and getting a feel for the arc and the machine is very important. Interpreting the arc sound and the visual of the puddle etc
At school we used to just do some welds on scrap that was similar to what we were going to do so we could set the machine get it running nice and then do the real thing.
Now that i have a feel for it you can kinda guess the settings and adjust as needed however it's impossible to explain to you how i interpret it.
Having said that welding is not my day job however I have shown people how to use gasless wire before done a bead and given them the torch, first time they have ever used gasless and lay a way better and more consistent bead than I ever could so it's just one of those things.

>> No.840689

>>840685
Yeah, I really need an instructor but best I can do for now is try, fail and maybe hopefully learn the right thing. I'm an engineering student if that helps so I know all the technical theoretical crap but that has nearly nothing to do with actually being able to do it.

I tried it out on some off cuts he had and it turned out shit and I was like, I don't think I can weld this with my skill mate but he insisted and wasn't too bother by the result so meh. Gonna make a trip to grab more flatbar scrap tomorrow. Also need to get a proper table surface and stop burning the crappy MDF table in the workshop.

>> No.841013
File: 16 KB, 250x250, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
841013

/o/ here.
Want to learn to weld and prob gonna start on flux core cause i have access to 1/2 used reels and plenty of steel pipe.

Which machine should i buy?
Im poor so i cant afford anything super fancy.

>> No.841073

>>841013
Try looking locally for second hand stuff then come back if you find something in your budget range

>> No.841815
File: 475 KB, 1600x1200, AtpniEAwt9gnzLob23KFvUxnRWcPSeP9jjhOxLXMT8vh.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

Hey guys,
I bought an old arc welder (pic related)
and my question is if anyone knows what this is, it says its an Einhell ES-180< and i wanna know how i did in terms of quality, however i cant find anything on it on google. Anyone have one of these?

>> No.841882

>>840689
The secret(not really) to learning how to weld is really looking at your welds, before, during, and after. If you plan your pass in your mind, execute your plan with adaptability, and analyze what worked and what didn't, you are already better than 90% of welders on day one of your learning process. Just start by padding a plate with tiny changes of gun geometry and speed, pay attention to the color and the sound of the weld, and the size and wetting of the puddle. Look at the one aspect of your weld like the edges then change something in your welding, then re-analyze the edges; do this process for every observable aspect of your welds.
If you just shit something out and realize it is shit and still change nothing for the next weld you are being crazy.

>> No.841988

>>841815
pretty sure there are only two things about an arc welder that matter
how much current it puts out and how long it runs before it overheats
its not really science like other types.

>> No.841992

>>841815
every single bit of relevant technical info is printed on the upper left of the front panel. so go take a better picture.

it's probably not amazing based on similar machines i've used, it'll be 230V 1-phase (or 480V across 2 legs of a 3-phase supply), sub-50 OCV, 160ish amps, AC only.
good enough to get the job done, as long as the job can be done with a 6013.

>> No.842180

>>841992
the little tag on top has perished over the years, unfortunately.

>> No.842201

>>841988

whether or not it can run DC is also important. For anything serious, you'll want to be able to run DC.

Using an inverter for SMAW tends to reduce chances of arc blow. But yeah, it's pretty simple. You could even do it with a car battery if you really, really had to.

>> No.842220

>>841815
Hope you didn't pay too much. Thats an ac output choke style welder. Translation: Pov pack.
However it'll do the job, nothing special and its not like your livelihood hinges on it so it'll be fine.

>> No.842222

>>841992
Hey can you tell me how you get 480v line-line voltage when your line-star point voltage is 230v in your 3 phase system?
i'd love to know....

>> No.842448
File: 37 KB, 314x235, 77508X45.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

>>842222
huh. yeah i was wrong, good spot.
the answer is that i live in a 400/230 country but my job site is off grid and uses 480/277.
stuff seems to run fine and it's not my field so i'd never thought about it.

>> No.842818
File: 2.25 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8890.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
842818

Finally got another chance to do some proper practice today.

I finally figured out how to get a sort of slag covering using my wire (pic related). Did a pad on 4mm mild steel plate and experimented turning up the wire speed. I was amazed I managed to get 4 units above the rec. speed and still get decent controllable welds and go up to 5 units before it started getting unmanageable. At 4 units above rec speed I got pic related but how well it penetrated is another matter.

>> No.842821
File: 1.66 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8935.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
842821

>>842818
I tried cutting a cross section then I used multi-step flaw finding spray but I have have no idea how it works, any tips?

I'll try find some draino or something and etch it next time.

>> No.842823
File: 2.17 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8924.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
842823

>>842821
Tried doing a 1G open root on some more 4mm flat bar. Went ok for most of it.

>> No.842824
File: 2.07 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8925.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
842824

>>842823
Till it fucked up at the end, just burned out and made a huge blob. Tried letting it cool and fill it up but it still fail and made a molten drop at exploded on the ground. What are you supposed to do when this burn out happens? try build it up from the sides? Give up and try again from the start??

>> No.842826
File: 2.13 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8902.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
842826

Also fun story from the intervening days. I was showing another guy to weld and I has the workshop/garage roller open and a welding screen out in front of it when it got picked up by the wind and thrown in the lake. One landed close and the guy went in the freezing cold water and pulled it out but the other one couldn't be seen. I bought some rope and welded a grappling hook, half as a joke but this another bloke was keen to try it out and he must have blindly thrown it in like 50 times and ended up hooking weeds and rocks and getting stuck but he actually managed to land the missing welding screen and pull it in.

>> No.842852

>>842818
need to be cleaning that flux off before you weld another pass
>>842821
dye penetrate not going to show your fusion you need to cut coupons out and bend them in half
>>842823
that crater in the end means it to hot, the undercut on the sides mean you dont have enough filler metal and from >>842824
looks like blowback did you bevel the edges? and how big of a gap was there

>> No.843007

>>842823

The backside is the part that matters on an open root joint, unless you are going to gouge the root and put in a back weld, so in this case your weld was far from OK.

>> No.843090
File: 2.02 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8913.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
843090

>>842852
Thanks for the feedback.

Got a bit lax cleaning slag off the back edge, the pic was just to show I got an actually covering this time as opposed to other pics before.

I'll try get a pipe and see if I can bend a piece in a vise.

I did a pretty shitty bevel and 1mm landing with 2mm gap. I'll also try tweaking the settings like you recommended.

>>843007
I'll pay more attention to the backside next time. I poked through so many times I'm surprised the first part of the weld was as good as it came out to be.

>> No.843819
File: 1.70 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8952.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
843819

Did an etch today with ammonium persulphate. left to right is from recommended settings, then increasing wire speed follow by back to default and increasing voltage.

>> No.843837

>>842220
30 eurobucks and got a couple of sticks with it

>> No.843847

>>843837
noice

>> No.845400

Not a welder but a blacksmith and I have a question, is it a bad weld when you mess up the temper of the steel? Also what makes a good welder

>> No.845542
File: 13 KB, 416x500, 1248973891640.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
845542

>>845400
welding liquifies the base metal, dilutes it with filler metal, then solidifies almost instantly, it's going to do horrible horrible things to hardenable alloys.
so weld THEN heat-treat.

>> No.846192
File: 841 KB, 2560x1600, 1380309428787.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
846192

Hey /diy/ I recently got into welding and I am in the beginning.I dont know what exactly I am doing wrong. I tried playing with the amperage a bit got and got varrying results.I own a stick welder. So I would really appreciate all input into this weld gore I created.

>http://imgur.com/iqkEAs5 First weld
>http://imgur.com/yhug1Sl Some surface welds
>http://imgur.com/3ZnNMul corner weld

This is my first time ever holding a welder.
A lot of times when I weld it sticks to the metal so I have to tug it off.

>> No.846195

>>846192
Im a novice too but yeah thats bad. If it sticks increase the amperage, get a feeling for speed, it seems to me u are rushing it, just practice a nice flow of hand. Also, look thru the mask that u are actually welding something, see the two metals melt and combine, not like in 1st pic. U did that on corner weld but as a said, bad flow and pace and overmelting. All in all u just need some practice, u'll get a hang of it

>> No.846202

>>846195
Thanks man for the input. I guess stuff like this reminds you ,you can't rush everything. It's really fun though. My goal is to construct a power cage.

>> No.846239
File: 61 KB, 480x640, IMG_6979.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
846239

>>846192
>First weld
arc too long. it's so fucked up from slag inclusion and incomplete fusion, i can't even guess at what all else you were doing wrong.
>surface welds
looks like you were drunk, or you welded with your feet for a joke.
>corner weld
grinding cannot disguise how badly you failed this joint.

go back to the basics of the basics, put down the camera, grab a pound of rods and go fuckin' weld a pad of beads.

>> No.846243

>>846239


This tbh

>> No.846372

>>834514
>Oxywelding
Gtfo with that bait, and all u niggers should be able to lay dimes on clean iron with fluxcore if u don't suck cock. Looks better than all else except for expert tig welders

>> No.846375

>>835676
>Welding material connected to a strong magnet
Welder theory 101 ever?
Keep sticking? Turn the heat up

>> No.846380

>>83670>>836709
Your not consistent when your laying ur weld. Your speeding up and slowing down there. Just keep this in mind and just continue practicing control

>> No.846383

>>837149
Move faster with ur weld so u don't burn through if all u said prior is true

>> No.846407

>>846383
>ur
your
>u
you
>true
true.

Welcome to 4chan newfriend, have a nice day.

>> No.846410

>>846407
Ur mum is welcome to my dick m8

>> No.846436

>>846410
Close, but let's try again.
>Ur
Your
>mum
mom
This isn't 4chan.co.uk, tea sucker.
>m8
mate.

>> No.846470

>tfw when got simple weld licenses
>have searched jobs for over 7 months since gotten the license.
>telling me that they need CNC people nowdays.
>1.5 years left before having to re do all licenses.

>> No.846524
File: 2.12 MB, 2248x4000, IMG_8955.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
846524

>>846470
fuck, just paid like $600 non-refundable for some welding night classes. How much did I fuck up?

$345 for 12hrs at local tafe and $265 for 24hrs at local highschool

also, holey tower of wonky butt welds

>> No.846543

>>846524
chillax, learning is always useful.

but paying out of your own pocket for certifications to pad your resume is not useful, especially when nobody's hiring.

>> No.846578
File: 1.88 MB, 2248x4000, IMG_8956.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
846578

>>846543
Then good thing non of this is certified and can help my resume.

>> No.846848

>>846470

If you mean you only got your stick certifications then what were you expecting?
Most contractors want new guys who are at least flux core certified.

>> No.846888

>>834200
op find the imperfections in your welds and change something you might have a bad earth bad prep or wrong settings' linger alittle when your finishing too so you dont leave craters, and if you do leave a crater start at the back of it and fill it completely in your next run

>> No.847502

Can someone access my skill level if my cap atm is stick welding 0.5mm zinc coated pipes, as in i can weld them together but not always successfully (without holes, bending etc)

>> No.848503
File: 689 KB, 1920x1280, IMG_3870s - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
848503

So I found a shitbox stick welding unit on the side of the road a while back and decided to buy the gloves and sticks and tape the black out glass to my reading glasses just to see if it worked.

I managed to do this shitty tack repair after a few pratice runs on a star picket. It got me interested in TIG again so it got me thinking, since I have two power supplys from an IBM blade server that are rated at 12V 164A each continuous and have load active sharing pins I could /diy/ a TIG unit with all the fancy pants functions programmed into a uC.

The problem is the main IGBT driver I would have to implement, there are a few great examples of diy TIG already, they use large 200A toshiba IGBTs in a H bridge configuration. The problem is I can't find them anywhere for cheap, I can get the same current handling capability with a hand full of TO-247 devices for nearly 1/10th the price, but that increases the mechanical complexity of getting power from those to the head.

Any ideas on where I can get some IGBT packages with screw terminals for cheap, or ideas for using TO-247s at around 200A capacity?

>> No.848722
File: 140 KB, 1000x774, tig-conversion-large.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
848722

>>848503
are you doing it the hard way for fun?

a valved torch, a regulator and a bottle of argon will turn your shitbox stick into a scratch start tig.

>> No.848730

>>848722
>>848503
both of these ideas are a waste of time sorry.

Never Ever Ever have i heard something so stupid of using computer PSU's as a CC welding power supply.
Do you understand the principal of CC power supplies and welding procedures? 12v will not be very useful at all. When you start an arc with a CC welding power supply the current is fixed at the set point and the arc voltage is varied by the power supply characteristics to maintain the required current.
Honestly if you are going to go through all that effort just buy a pov pak DC tig off ebay.

If you are going to hook up a TIG torch to an AC Stick welder it will be the biggest dog of a welder on the face of the earth. No AC balance control meaning you can't crank it past 100A without ruining your TIG torch, will be rough at best on aluminum. The arc will be unstable and i can see someone throwing the torch on the ground in frustration. Not to mention a dog to start the arc.
Also you wont be able to do any normal welding because its AC only which is used for aluminum only so you wont be able to weld ferrous metals which uses DC for that process.
It would maybe be good for an emergency alloy repair if you had no other option but completely useless anywhere else.

>> No.848732

>>848730
What do you think the IGBTs are for? or are you really just this ignorant?

>> No.848737

>>848730
>AC
>wont be able to weld ferrous metals
that's an interesting opinion

>> No.848784

So first day at the stick welding non-cert course, their machines are proper inverter TIGs with HF start and we were using brand spanking new electrodes. It was amazing. It was like nearly impossible to stick the electrode and striking was soooo much easier. I just managed to figure out how to run a really good bead where the slag just peels itself off by the end of the session which was 3 hours nearly of safety, site induction and basic stuff and one hour of welding practise. Also found out they have a non-advertised certified welding course that only cost $550 for 18 weeks of night classes so I'm gonna try enrol in that and the first class is tomorrow night.

I'll try get pictures next time.

>>848503
Big problem here might be that the sever PSUs are gonna be really heavily constant voltage regulated but in welding we require constant current. there are constant voltage MIG welders but these have to use variable wire feed speed. Also 12V or 24V might not be enough.

You can definitely use the TO-247 IGBTs in parallel and bolt them together to a heatsink. I've seen it done on a DIY high power PSU build on 4HV which might be a good place if you want actual advice and a more serious crowd or just search through threads and see what people have done.

>> No.848824
File: 94 KB, 480x640, Dscf2957[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
848824

I have tried welding once to see if it's reasonable to start tuning a car. MIG-welding seemed easy enough, but how can you weld upwards with it? For most cheap cars in Finland, welding holes in the floor is the most common repair demanded by vehicle inspections, so I'm pretty much guaranteed to need to do that.

>> No.848830

>>848824
all I know is that overhead welding is a speciality skill and no mechanic will do it except for specialty body shops.

>> No.848831

>>848830
Just roll the car on its roof carefully

>> No.848870

>>848784
Surely constant-current is what the proposed second-stage regulator made from IGBTs and a microcontroller is for, no?

>> No.849015

>>848784
> You can definitely use the TO-247 IGBTs in parallel
IGBTs have a negative temperature coefficient (as temperature increases, resistance decreases and thus current increases).

Putting several in parallel tends to result in positive feedback (the one with the highest gain will conduct most of the current, increasing its temperature and thus its current, and so on) leading to thermal runaway.

This can be avoided by using an emitter-follower configuration, where there is non-trivial resistance between the emitter and ground, providing negative feedback (any increase in current results in an increase in emitter voltage and thus a decrease in Vge), meaning that the closed-loop current gain is independent of the gain of the transistor.

This requires that each transistor has a separate resistance, so that the feedback applies to each transistor separately. I can't see how this can applied to a welder.

>> No.849087

>>848824
yeah, you definitely use mig to do overhead and vertical but it'll take some practise to get to that level.

>>848830
mechanics are mechanics not panelbeaters/bodyshops. Not special that a mechanic won't do it

>>848870
i think the point is also inversion so anon can AC weld aluminium but transistence regulation of current is definitely going to blow the IGBTs his however PWM might work well enough to provide pseudo current regulation but arc stability will be effected

>> No.849101

>>849015
That's why they are bolted together I believe, to thermally match them. Might be better to take this to electronics general or a new thread. I'll try find the build and post it there.

>> No.849195

I thought that from the welders I've met that the only thing you need to do is be a functioning alcoholic and the rest would come naturally

>> No.849220

I welded in highschool and now that I am out I want to do it as a career. Obviously I need to practice though, and therefore I need a welding machine. I was thinking a MIG unit for my garage would be my best bet. With $600~ to spend what should I get? Gas or gasless? What brand? What features should I look for? Are there any must read books for beginners?

>> No.849285

>>849220
How far do you want to go? Skilled tradesman? Supervisor? Welding Engineer?

What sort of welding you want to do? shipyard? underwater? manufacturing? aerospace? high performance auto?

Maybe look for a good multi process machine, then you can do all your stuff. They sell a brand name, brand new TIG/stick/mig for $800 in Aus. I think you could easily get one well within your $600 in the US especially if you camp Craig's List. Definitely get a gas compatible MIG if you go for just a MIG machine since it can do gasless and gas and really doesn't cost much more especially compared to getting another machine. Gas needs a bit more capital to operate with gas cylinder hire and all but gas is cheaper in the long run, especially if you go through a lot of wire 20kg worth is about the break even for my local costs.

"The Procedure Handbook" is a nearly comprehensive reference of every possible weld.
"Metals and How to Weld Them" is a very well written guide to metallurgy/material science in relation to welding and procedures required for welding them.
I don't think any books are really "must read" unless you're doing something like a welding tech, design or engineering course in which case you'll get told what to get. The act of making a weld is learnt through hands on practise and guidance. If anything the plethora youtube video are much better resources than books for this.

>> No.849311
File: 10 KB, 300x300, 413YJAtKFFL__SL500_AA300_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
849311

>>849285
this would help too

>> No.849715

>>848732
It seems like a extremely long way round for a short cut. You probably could make it work but i doubt you could do if for less than a povo china special TIG off ebay.
Also IGBT's directly controlling the output (full welding current) current is just dumb, no welder manufacturer uses this method. The IGBT's are typically on the 300-600volt DC rail off the rectified mains and they drive the high frequency output transformer which steps it down to welding voltage and is then rectified.

>> No.849915

>>849285
Wow. Great response, Thanks for that. I'm mostly interested in manufacturing as a skilled tradesman since I have friends in the business. I plan on doing 3 years at my local trades school which includes an apprenticeship. I think I'll shell out some extra dosh for an all in one unit, as you said.

>> No.850020
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850020

Somebody should weld together a wall-mounted foldable bed. Very minimalist and easy to vacuum "under" the bed, so to speak.

Something like this shouldn't be too difficult.

>> No.850166

>>834515
Not the person you're replying to, but I would consider TIG to be the hardest. It just takes a much steadier hand since the weld pool is drasticly smaller. Also, like oxy-fuel setups, you have to hold filler metal with your other hand, meaning you have to be super steady.

>> No.850169

>>837137
The average I use (for .035 I think?) is 16.5 volts and 280 wire feed speed. Of course, all machines are different.

>> No.850703
File: 1.81 MB, 4000x2248, IMG_8992.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
850703

>>849915
Well MIG is definitely your best bet if you're doing manufacture from what I hear along with some TIG for sheet metal fab but I'm no pro so I can't say much.

>>850166
welp, I'm now in a weekly night course for TIG so having guidance should help. I thought I might want to get a TIG finger but I've spent all my money on the training courses.

>>850169
Unfortunately there is no actual units on the machine so it doesn't help much.

Pic is horizontal beads progressing upwards on the bottom half and downwards on the top half

>> No.850705
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850705

>>850703
And vertical beads uphill on left, downhill on the right.

>> No.850707

>>850020
And of course it is required that when in the "sleeping" position the legs must sink into the floor of delicious melted cheese.

>> No.850762

>>841815
Einhell is a german brand similar to harbor freight. They also sell mini lathes and mini mills. Some things are shit some are quite usable.

>> No.850854
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850854

Hey, /diy/, how do I repair a fryer basket with minimal investment in welding tools that'll never get used again?

The baskets themselves are all nickel-plated steel, so I was planning on getting a bunch of nickel-plated steel paperclips, weaving them into the damaged sections, and then ______ ?

I was reckoning brazing with a nickel-based filler on the basis that:

- can use existing torch
- non-toxic
- not going to come apart when heated to 190 degrees in a fryer

But

a) is there a better method I've not thought of?

b) is there any PPE I need to be aware of?

>> No.850883

>>850854

You get a new one unless you want to get sued when nickel slag shit gets fried into someone's food and they choke or impale their guts on it.

>> No.850894

>>850854
>>850883

Srs, like $20 on Amazon bruh

>> No.850929

>>850854
>welding tools that'll never get used again?

hackerspace
nobody needs a garage full of tools everyday.
check out a hackerspace in your area for a welder

>> No.851191

>>850883
Got a new one.

>>850894
It was $120 (srs, like) because this is a basket for a real fryer for a real kitchen, not a Fisher-Price fryer from Walmart.

Thusly, $120 is the absolute maximum budget for mending the old one into a hot spare, though $20 would be a much nicer figure.

>>850929
Any particular welder? AIUI, stainless and nickel-plated steels are a bitch to work with, whether you're welding, brazing, cutting, drilling, or apparently doing anything with them.

Or did you mean look for the kind of welder that I could ask this question to?

>> No.851223

>>850854

Would you really trust some random loser at a hackerspace to make sanitary qualiity welds?
Just buy a new fryer basket you fucking kike.

>> No.851317

>>851223
professional welders love hackerspaces. welding jobs tend to be boring and don't often get to work on welding really cool projects like you find at a hackerspace. there's usually someone around who knows what they're doing.

P.S. sanitary in boiling oil, kek 180F kills most germs homey.

>> No.851468

>>851223
No I fucking wouldn't, which is why I plan on doing it myself.

The whole suggestion was stupid anyway: how's anyone expected to arc-weld a mesh of wires, each less than a mm thick and thinner than any welding rod or wire? In the factory, they're spot-welded, like tiny shopping trolleys. Outside of the factory, the options seem to be either brazing, or turning the basket into a puddle.

Any actual advice would be appreciated. I already own a replacement basket.

>> No.851536
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851536

>>851468
Weld it just like any other thin welded item.
Steady hands and low amps.

>> No.851570

>>851468
>how's anyone expected to arc-weld a mesh of wires
this isn't arc welded with a welding rod
it's done with a carbon spot welder

most car body shops have them
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZurdIpedlY

>> No.851619

get a lot of one inch steel square tube bars.

cheap mig welder

flux in wire

cutting torch

Make shit.

>> No.851626
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851626

>>850707
>he doesn't have a floor of liquified cheese

>> No.851711

>>851191
Pulse arc TIG. How do you think they weld jewellery?

>> No.851760

>>851711
>How do you think they weld jewellery?
with a tiny little torch

>> No.852198

>>849220
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?525201-***-Metallurgy-Practical-Knowledge-Useful-Guides-and-Advanced-References-***