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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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730530 No.730530 [Reply] [Original]

How to troubleshoot?

Here goes..
I've got an 2010 or 11 asto headset that I've recently repaired, but now I've got an issue with the mixamp board. The usb connector wasn't properly working, it was loose, so I soldered it back down, the data prong things haven't dislodged from the board, only the support bits on the outside of the casing. Anyway I was about to get into a gaymen session and the amp powered off. I've popped it back open and nothing looks burnt out, I put some brand new AA's in it to see if it was the USB that was faulty, it isn't as it still wont power regardless of how its powered.

How can I diagnose the problem?


>Pic semi related, similar mixamp circuit board to mine. I don't have my camera at the moment.

>> No.730662

>>730530
First search the net to figure out if it's a known problem with a known solution. If you can't find anything, start probing the voltages of the power traces, going backwards from the source (battery connector I guess).

>> No.730987

>>730662
can't find anything in relation to my problem on the net.

Would you have any idea to what would be the problem based on general electric related issues? What component would be likely of going that would cause an issue like this?

Despite fixing iphones and computers for a while. I've never had a multi meter. I see that /diy/ people tend to stay away from cheap ones. Will it matter if I pop out to get the cheapest one I can find?

>> No.730991

>>730987
The only difference between the cheap and expensive is that the more expensive you go the more precise the readout will be. The cheap $25 meter will be accurate at most to hundredths.
As for your problem, no clue.

>> No.731021

>>730991
I think i've fixed it.

My soldering isn't the best, probably doesn't help that im using a shitty soldering iron and solder. I did have a ball of solder that was a bit too high up on the usb connector, probably didn't use enough flux or w/e. Anyway, the copper braid and some flux seems to have fixed my issue. I hope.

Funny thing was that the unit was working after I soldered the usb connector back down, about a hour or so later, it shut off.

Why's that?

>> No.731037

>>730991
>The only difference between the cheap and expensive is that the more expensive you go the more precise the readout will be.
Also safety if you want to measure high voltages, stick the probes into a wall socket or whatever. More expensive meters will also have higher quality probes that use silicone rubber leads, and so on.

>>731021
Thermal expansion can crack bad joints.

>> No.731041

>>731037
I don't plan on sticking anything in the sockets. Haha. Although this is now fixed, I'd still like to pick one up as they seem they'd come in handy now and again.

>> No.731103

> Ken Rockwell
> saturating the joints with solder fixed the problem
Why is this so funny

>> No.731194

>>731037
Yes, the probes are often of higher quality on more expensive meters, and often detachable and replaceable. Vs on the cheaper models, the probes are typically attached permanently. For daily use, I have an old RadioShack 7 function digital meter that I've had for 10 something years at least (originally a $17 meter) and other than replacing the fuse and battery, only recently have I had to do any actual maintenance on it. Recently, because of use, one of the probe leads broke at the probe because of use, and I had to solder it back together.
For more precise and other situations I have access to a 13 function off brand hand me down analog meter (equivalent to a $40 meter)