/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>studio

What are you working with in said studio, specifically? Music?

>>44956
Primarily music, but post as well.

no but have a bump and some pics

>>44958

Alright. I ask because for about two years I did almost all of my sculpture work out of my one-man dorm. But then, I was a Lego kid, so walking through a foot-stabby minefield at six in the morning was normal for me.

BACK ON TOPIC. A Murphy bed or other folding apparatus may be a good investment, but losing on comfort is going to be your biggest hurdle. I'd recommend investing in a quality foam mattress. If you're expecting a lot of company, a fold-out may also be worthwhile - but there's even more hurdles with that as they tend to be clunky AND dirty from public use.

I'm also interested in learning about these beds.

Do this instead.

>>44974
where can i purchase this

>>44964
I have a king sized bed. From my researching so far Ive came to a conclusion to maybe fabricate a bed frame from metal and use industrial brackets to mount it.

I would also probably have some sort of stained wood to cover it up (So its not an eye sore)

>>44977
ikea, probably. loft beds aren't that hard to find.

>>44977
Any virgin outfitters should have them.

>>44991
>>44974
Ikea is your best bet. There are a ton of beds just like that there. I wouldn't wanna sleep above all of my equipment though.. sketchy

http://www.resourcefurniture.com/space-savers

I really like the look of the designs here.

I had a queen sized loft bed that I built in my apartment with a huge desk/workbench underneath for the various projects I used to do. Cost about $100 bucks to build. Called the area underneath the man-cave. Was quite badass, and all I had to do was just get shorter legs for it when I moved and actually had room to put it on the floor.

>>45006

Ikea murphy and loft beds are absolute shit. Even the fullsized ones are only rated to about 150 lbs officially. Nothing you could sleep in safely as they wobble around. Much less get freaky in.

>>45086

Sounds awesome. You have any pictures, plans, or anything left?

>>45156

Unfortunately I didn't really get any pictures of it as this was before I had my digital camera, but I can draw up plans for a queen sized loft bed identical to the one I had. You can get all the wood cut to the right dimensions at home depot, but I would recommend using a dato blade for the ends.

A king sized bed would require either a center rail or some really heavy duty lumber bigger than the 2x6's I used. I could draw up plans for both a queen sized and a king sized with the larger lumber, though.

>>45170

It'd be cool for future reference but you don't have to, I'm mostly just curious. I live in a basement with too low a ceiling for a murphy actually. Hell, can't do loft bed unless I wanna feel like I'm sleeping in a coffin.

You could comprimise and make what amounts to a raised captains bed. Would give you storage underneath at least.

Lumber list and cut sizes to follow in next post...

>>45195

You are a gentleman and a scholar.

Lumber list and cut sizes for queen sized loft bed with desk and ladder underneath:

Bed Rails:
2 2x6s, 84" long
2 2x2s, 84" long

Bed Posts:
4 2x6s, cut to whatever height you want (mine ended up being 6 feet tall)

End "ladders"
8 2x4s, 66" long

Desk supports:
3 2x4s, 84" long

Side Ladder (optional but awesome)
2 2x4s cut to same height as bed posts
4 2x4s, 24" long

Slats:
8-10 2x4s 60" long

Bed platform and desk surface
2 sheets 1/2 inch MDF or plywood. First sheet ripped to 84" x 48", second sheet ripped to 84" x 12" (these two pieces become the bed platform, the third piece which is 84"x36" becomes the desk surface

Hardware:
Lots of 2 1/2" wood screws
8 3/8" x 6" carriage bolts with washers and nuts
4 1/2" x 4" carriage bolts with washers and nuts
Wood Glue

If you don't have a dato blade on a table saw, then you'll need a jigsaw to assemble the ends. This bed is rock solid, never made any creaking noises, and had myself and five of my friends on it while building it without making a peep. Combined weight was over 1000 lbs.

One thought i have is to lower the bed as much as you can (shorten legs to stubs), then build something like a simple box with hinges to lift the "lid" to vertical along a wall.

>lets see, over ninethousandhours in paint later..

tada, a rough image.
I guess it is like a reversed murphy bed?
instead of the bed folding from the wall, you fold down some more "floor" to cover the bed. The stage-like space could serve as actual stage(depending on room height), or just a place to stick a few chairs and people in the crowd.

Sit down with some measurements of your space, some graph paper and pencils, and just crunch on these plans a bit.

Assembling the bed rails:

Take one of the 2x6s and one of the 2x2s and glue/screw them together with spacing on the screws every couple of inches. This is what most of the weight is going to be settled on. You're basically making an L shape with these two pieces of wood. Do the same with the other two pieces to finish the bed rails

Making the end "ladders":

This is were you need to use the jigsaw or the dato blade. The two end pieces of the bed are basically giant ladders you build using 4 of the 66" long 2x4s and 2 of the bedposts. I measured along the 2x6s in equal spaces for four cutouts. Pic related. I don't have the exact measurements as to where these slots go, but on mine they started a foot from the bottom and a foot from the top, spaced out roughly equally. The bed rail will rest on the uppermost "rung" and the third one down from the top is however high you want your workbench/desk to be. The measurements were what I used for mine, and the workbench ended up being exactly three feet off the ground (perfect for me with the right chair)

If you use the DATO blade, make the cuts in the end rails 3/4" deep and cut the same amount out of the ends of the 2x4s (I shouldn't need to tell you how these fit together) or if using a jigsaw, cut them the full 1 1/2" deep to slide the 66" "rungs" into.

When you do this two times you're essentially going to have two 66" wide ladders with four rungs each.

Assembling the bed rails:

Take one of the 2x6s and one of the 2x2s and glue/screw them together with spacing on the screws every couple of inches. This is what most of the weight is going to be settled on. You're basically making an L shape with these two pieces of wood. Do the same with the other two pieces to finish the bed rails

Making the end "ladders":

This is were you need to use the jigsaw or the dato blade. The two end pieces of the bed are basically giant ladders you build using 4 of the 66" long 2x4s and 2 of the bedposts. I measured along the 2x6s in equal spaces for four cutouts. Pic related. I don't have the exact measurements as to where these slots go because it will change with how high you want your bed. The bed rail will rest on the uppermost "rung" and the third one down from the top is however high you want your workbench/desk to be. The measurements were what I used for mine, and the workbench ended up being exactly three feet off the ground (perfect for me with the right chair)

If you use the DATO blade, make the cuts in the end rails 3/4" deep and cut the same amount out of the ends of the 2x4s (I shouldn't need to tell you how these fit together) or if using a jigsaw, cut them the full 1 1/2" deep to slide the 66" "rungs" into.

When you do this two times you're essentially going to have two 66" wide ladders with four rungs each.

Disregard random postings, I suck cocks

Assembling the bed rails:

Take one of the 2x6s and one of the 2x2s and glue/screw them together with spacing on the screws every couple of inches. This is what most of the weight is going to be settled on. You're basically making an L shape with these two pieces of wood. Do the same with the other two pieces to finish the bed rails

Making the end "ladders":

This is were you need to use the jigsaw or the dato blade. The two end pieces of the bed are basically giant ladders you build using 4 of the 66" long 2x4s and 2 of the bedposts. I measured along the 2x6s in roungly equal spaces for four cutouts. Pic related. I don't have the exact measurements as to where these slots go except for the one from the top, so see the notes in the pic.

After you make your measurements and cutouts, drill the holes as shown.

The bed rail will rest on the uppermost "rung" and the third one down from the top is however high you want your workbench/desk to be. You could add more rungs if you want to balance it out but I would have no less than 4 on either side for safety.

If you use the DATO blade, make the cuts in the end rails 3/4" deep and cut the same amount out of the ends of the 2x4s (I shouldn't need to tell you how these fit together) or if using a jigsaw, cut them the full 1 1/2" deep to slide the 66" "rungs" into.

When you do this two times you're essentially going to have two 66" wide ladders with four rungs each.

This part goes a LOT faster if you have a friend or two.

Stand up the two end sections rougly seven feet apart. Sit one of the frame rails down where it goes on the inside resting on the top rungs and move everything around until it's all flush on the ends. Then using the holes you drilled in the end pieces as guides, drill through the bed rails and secure them with the carriage bolts. Once one rail is secured to both ends, the second rail goes in the same way. Here's another drawing from the sides and ends

The rest is pretty straightforward. You put the slats in place evenly along between the bedrails and then the two pieces of plywood/MDF on top to make the platform for the mattress.

The desk is made by taking the three remaining long pieces of 2x4 and screwing them or gluing them into the back of the 36"x74" remaining MDF and resting it on the third set of rungs down, securing it with wood screws.

I made a ladder for the side the same way I made the end pieces and just screwed it at the corner by the head to both the bedpost there and the bedrail.

You don't need the workbench under there, it was just something I had. Made a great sewing table and craft table, along with a workbench to do some soldering and stuff. The bed is sturdy enough as it is.

Would I do this for a king sized bed, I would scale everything up to the next size of wood while having a 4x4 post or a doubled up 2x4 as the center rail.

Thanks, fucking saved. Might actually be something I could do for my mother so the guest room could double as a sewing room.

>>45363

I loved that bed...the few FWBs I had hated it though. Was fun to see them scared shitless curled up against the wall because they were afraid of falling

Built this 100% from scratch, only had to order the hinge mechanism from some murphy bed supplier on the internet. Still needs to be painted, and I'm either going to have to find a thinner mattress or devise some sort of catch or latch to hold it shut at the top.

>>45216
OP back reviving thread. I like your idea, but I would wanna reverse your idea. The goal would be to eliminate the bed from taking up physical floor space. Plus I already have a couch to sit on and whatnot

Build a metal frame for your mattress to sit on. Mount 4 electric hoists to your ceiling (or IN your ceiling so they are hidden, if you have access) and attach the bed frame to them using rope or cable. When not in use, you can hit a switch and the bed will be hoisted up against the ceiling out of the way.

>>48173

>>48173
How to ensure stability of the ceiling?

>>44974
>hitting head all the time when getting up

I can imagine this being a pain for 1st 3 times you do that.

>>48197
>>48212
>Will you pay for hydraulics

>>48212

There are joists in the ceiling, and they should have no problem supporting a couple hundred pounds, provided the house was built to code. You could either attach the hoists directly to the joists, or put blocking between 2 joists to hold them and spread the weight between 2 joists.

>>48277

A few electric hoists are going to be WAY cheaper than using hydraulics.

>>48229

I built a loft bed in the alcove (mounted to walls, just ladder touching the ground) of my tiny apartment so I could keep my battle station beneath it. Hitting the head has never been a problem, I just had to get over the feeling that I was sleeping in a coffin, you know?

In retrospect, I probably could've made it about 18cm lower.

>>48297

How much are we looking at, here? I'd feel like Bill Gates if my bed could be raised to the ceiling with the push of a button.

A friend of mine is an artist who needed space for his work station, so he just lofted his bed.

OP, make a japanese style room. bed everywhere. it's best for when you get company. just make sure everyone takes off their shoes

>>48316

In which cultures is taking off your shoes not the norm? I talk to an American who wished for guests to leave their shoes at the door what with his fancy floors, but they always got so flabbergasted that he eventually had to give up.
Walking in with shoes is pretty much on the level of lighting up a cigarette without asking the host for permission in Sweden.

>>48327

This baffles me as well.
I know in Italy only guests don't take off their shoes...and everyone and their moms seem to wear shoes all the time in the states.

And they carpet every square meter of their floors. What's up with that? Why not use parquetry?

HEY OP

if youre still here, i got exactly what you need.

http://www.ikeahackers.net/2010/10/turn-your-studio-apartment-into-1.html

hope this helps

I've slept on cheap air mattresses for years and I find that they're perfectly comfortable compared to any other type of mattress. They take up little space, and can be moved or disinflated easily. Hell, on Penn & Teller's Bullshit! they did a whole episode about mattress bullshit; they interviewed an editor of a consumer report magazine who chooses to sleep on an 80 dollar air mattress.

But this is /diy/, so I guess I'll suggest buying one and filling it with helium, sticking it to the floor with velcro, and sleeping on that. When you're not using it it floats up to the ceiling to reveal some kind of artsy bullshit you've put on the bottom of it.

>>48327
>>48348
America at some point became a culture of shame and artifice. Taking off shoes can release odor, which dissipates quickly and isn't that awful to begin with, but an offensive odor is like the worst thing you can do in the US these days.

it's stupid and shitty, but that's the way it is.

Also we tie our shoes, which is a hassle to re-do if you're in and out a lot.

>>48354
Not Op but I like this.

>>48354
>Rent an apartment
>Pimp it out
Wow, really? You got so much money, rent a fucking house or something.

>>45841
>>45842
This is badass.

>>48327
>In which cultures is taking off your shoes not the norm?

American culture. (Fuck you, it does exist.)

As my mother's side of the family are a bunch of Noggie immigrants, I've inherited the custom of not wearing shoes in the house. A majority of guests are confused about it the first time they visit, but I've never had anyone give me any trouble.

>>48327
i only ever take my shoes off if i'm planning on staying the night. i'm just not comfortable any other way. a lot of my friends are like that.

Reppin' England.

bumping

>I'll suggest buying one and filling it with helium, sticking it to the floor with velcro, and sleeping on that. When you're not using it it floats up to the ceiling to reveal some kind of artsy bullshit you've put on the bottom of it.
i just might do this for the sheer novelty of it.

>Since the original wall bed in 1900, the Murphy Bed Company has taken innovative steps to improve the beds with models which include the patented counter-balancing design. This patented design gave the bed mechanisms dependability and ease of operation. The beds, which have mattress supports built into them, will accommodate a standard mattress in twin, double, queen and king sizes.
i don't see why comfort would be an issue -but i second the recommendation for a decent foam bedding. those things are fucking amazing.