/diy/ - Do It Yourself

what sort of price are materials and equipment?

Do your prefer Blue Buddha, The Ring Lord or some other supplier? Where do you get your jump rings? Aluminum or Niobium? Favorite weave?

>>33534
Really depends on the metals.
I am making the bikini above, and the solid rings will be $15-20.

>>33573
I really like TRL because they have so many different kinds of rings and I can just make one big order.
They are also really customer friendly, the owners respond to you on the forums.

I really like working with anodized aluminum and copper, they are both malleable and don't mar up to bad.

My favorite weave is byzantine, has been since the first time I made it.
I also really like 4in on the bias... see picture.

>>33609

Ok, cool. I actually dated someone who made rings for BBB, and bought a lot from TRL. I like Dragonscale, but it's so costly and time consuming. Have you seen any of the unique weaves from Spider Chain? I've been drooling over some of them.

meow

Does anyone form their own rings?
What gauge wire would I need? What metal? What size rings?

ok, you guys are assholes!

I watched the whole last thread, and i've been looking at websites for days now deciding what to do. i even went to joann/micheals, but all they have are small(6mm at the biggest, which is to small to do anything fun i found out).

i'm wanting to make bracelets/necklace type weaves, captive inverted rounds or full persians, etc...

it seems like i want 18g 1/4'. im also looking at using contrasting colors, black and silver, pink and purple, etc, so i'm thinking anodized alum is the way to go, right?

i'm curious, how many rings would i need to get a bracelet for a normal sized woman, and is that a good gauge/size to try. also, are the pliers with the soft tips neccesary, or just helpful in not scratching things up?

>>34993
There is no right answer for any of those questions and everyone does it differently.

Most of what i make is 18ga aluminum and stainless steel in 1/4" and 3/16" coiled on metal dowel rods with a drill. Then i cut the rings freehand with a jewelers rotary blade on my drill. Actually i dont know why i'm explaining this, these are horrible ideas for beginners.

Get a wooden dowel rod in the ring size you want, wrap it by hand, cut with snips, get rings.

Wire gauge and ring size are better determined by what you want to make, thicker for armor, thinner for jewelry.

>>35045
Total noob too, but I THINK anodized alum is the only metal they really colour.
The pliers, as far as I can figure, don't need soft tips for it to work, but your rings will be scratched to hell if you use regular pliers.

>>35045
For bracelet & necklace weaves smaller rings always look better, 1/4 rings are fine to try some weaves out, but look too large for many finished projects. Try the Ringlord for Anodised Aluminium rings of different colours.

Some weaves will simply not work if you have the incorrect ratio of ring diameter and wire thickness, especially weaves that need two different ring sizes.

For a bracelet, 200+ rings for a fairly loose weave and many more for weaves like Dragonscale. Soft tip pliers are not necessary, but they have to have no teeth at all, completely flat.

>>35056
what ring size would be good for a shirt?
Would stainless steel still function as useful armour?

>>35059
Unless you powdercoat. Aluminum is the only one that will be colored and retain the metallic appearance though.

>>35173
Ringlord sell Enameled Copper and Anodized Niobium. The copper is too soft in my opinion and rings would not hold together. The niobium is nice but a lot more expensive that Anodized Aluminium, so I would start with the Aluminium and see how you go.

>>35197
Copper only comes in copper color. Ni rings look interesting. Aren't there heat colored Ti rings too?

>>35203
They have coloured Copper, but now that I think about it, it is some sort of coating. Yes they also sell Titanium coloured rings. All a lot more expensive than Aluminium.

yay, it's back.

it was weird i bumped the thread in the morning and a few minutes later it was 404. (it wasn't when i bumped)

Sorry guys, I was out last night.

Copper is strong.
Enameled copper... I weaved it with my fingers...

Pic related 14g something copper that I just tried to pull it apart with all my strength... didn't budge...

Anodized aluminum has a pretty good color pay off for being so cheap. It also doesn't mar too bad, even when I use pliers with teeth, hahaha.

About the ratios, I've even made byze with 14g 1/4 which you have to shove the rings through, but it looks so awesome.

Links I posted in the other thread...

Weave Tutorials:
http://cgmaille.com/tutorials.shtml
http://www.mailleartisans.org/weaves/
http://www.theringlord.org/forum/index.php?/topic/10298-basic-beginners-help/page__pid__77910#entry7
7910


Garment Tutorials/Patterns/etc:
http://www.bladeturner.com/pattern/hauberk/hauberk.html
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnx0aGVoYXBweWJhcmJhcmlhb
mhvcmRlbGFuZHN8Z3g6MjA5MTE5NzA0OGI0OWNkMA&pli=1
http://www.arador.com/construction/hauberk6.gif
http://www.chainmail.com/chainmall/patterns/coif/coif.html
http://www.chainmail.com/chainmall/cteach2.htm#KNITTING_The_Basics

This goes through the making of rings to in-depth pictures of weaving 4in1:
http://www.noiregarde.org/chainmaille.pdf

Metal types, Wire sizes:
http://www.chainmailbasket.com/making_maille.php

Making and weaving rings to making a garment:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/farisles/guilds/armour/mail.htm

Some inspiration:
http://www.thomasriley.info/chainmail/

>>35573
>>35573
>Enameled copper... I weaved it with my fingers...

>Pic related 14g something copper that I just tried to pull it apart with all my strength... didn't budge...

Thats because copped strain hardens... Try heating it up with a blowtorch and try again after it cooled down.

so i'm gonna order some stuff from ring lord. if i'm looking to make either box chain, or full persians into necklaces or bracelets, i think i would need something a little smaller than 1/4" right? other wise it would be too large/look funny on a girl/lady. any tips would be helpful so i dont buy the wrong shit.

Putting a blowtorch anywhere near me is a bad idea...

>>35600
http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/fullpersian.shtml
Full Persian tutorial and AR sizes

Box chain... I've made it in 18/19g 7/32"

I have some problems with this:
First I live in south america, so I have to translate everything. Second and last I bought some small rings instead of making them, but I don't know how to cut them, the pliers that the people offer me are too big.

>>35655
If you can find a local craft store, jewelry pliers are what you are looking for.
They are much smaller than normal pliers.

Small rings are hard to work with for first projects, good luck!

puedes comprar estas o similares en cualquier ferreteria, se llaman "pinzas de corte" no valen mas de 5 dólares. hay de la marca truper.

http://www.deportesmatch.com/graficos/img_articulos/u14g.jpg

any european located suppliers?

>>35696
>>35676
Thanks!

>>34993
14 gauge steel electric fence wire spun on 3/8 in rod, not so much for jewelry as for armor

>>35714
http://cgmaille.com/links.shtml
Here is a link of suppliers.
Watch out for the prices, compare them, and compare shipping prices.

So, for making the bikini in the first pic, I ordered:

SXAB1614 x2 bright aluminum - silver color
SXAA1614Ice x1 shiny black
SXAA1614royal x1 bright blue

All saw cut aluminum in 16g 1/4"
Saw cut so no pinching of the nips.

I will use 16g 1/4" EPDM in white (purchasing when I get more money)

It will go black - blue- silver from the outside to the inside of the cups.

Sound alright?

>>35779
I also have no idea what to use for the big connector ring that is at the end of the cups...
:/

Sweet! The thread is back!
Showcasing the first thing I ever made - mainly made a couple of squares of stainless steel and wanted to make them into something bigger - so I turned them into a collar for my gf. It's cheap, looks pretty damn good on her and it protects her from knife attacks to the neck! Bonus!

>>35784
Go to a hardware store or a fabric store, and they're plain rings, next to the D-rings.

>>36042
heavy :P

>>36042
DO WANT.

HOW DO.

>>36245
The tie? The inlay? Or both?

>>35696
que rayos haces escribiendo español compadre?

Mexican reporting in.

Also, what is the best begginers guide guys? i really want to start doing this, but i have so many doubts and i dont know where to start.

>>35637

far right is a byzantine, right? What did you use for it?

bumping for great justice

>>36311

aw yea it's Mexican /diy/er party. Sup hombre.

hmmm metal

hey all. I was just wondering, I've been doing this on and off for a few months, and all I have for wire is 18ga electrical. the three strand type. What kind of pliers would you recommend? Mine always scratch the shit out of the rings, so I wrapped them in hockey tape, but now they don't pinch the rings shut nice.

>>36574
nada, aqui intentando ser util, coahuilense reportandose.

haz visto aqui en mexico algun lugar donde vendan los accesorios para hacer malla o algo por el estilo?

>>36290
>>36042

That complete piece

>>36326
anodized aluminum 14g 1/4

>>37523
Sand/dremmel down the teeth then sand to a polish?
I have this problem too :<

If I were to make this <http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/rondo.shtml> replacing the grey with black and the copper with gold-colored, what rings would I want for a bracelet? I don't understand the way they size the rings. I don't want it to be massive, but I don't want it to be so small it's impossible to work with either.

>>38032
Sorry, I've spent this whole time looking up ring sizes.

There's not going to be one type of metal in one wire gauge that has all those aspect ratio unless you hand wrap them.
If you hand wrap rings, you can not have colors.

Will you be okay with different metals/wire gauges in the same bracelet?

I will do more research to figure it out.

i'm confused, this site says http://www.mailleartisans.org/weaves/weavedisplay.php?key=13 AR of 3.3 and up and this one http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/fullpersian.shtml says 5.5 and up.

quite a difference, i want it to be quite delicate, not thick and heavy. what can you guys recommend?

>>38120
NVM, i messed up while tabbing. 2 different weaves. ignore that post

>>38104
>>38032

SXAA2018gold 1 bag
SXAA20332black 1 bag
SXAA20532black 1 bag
These products seem pretty good, and more than enough for a bracelet.
Just picked anodized aluminum because it holds its color well and isn't pricy.

>>38123
>>38120
Oh, awesome, I was a bit worried there c:

what would you recommend, sterling silver rings. 20ga. 2.9 mm id or 3.2mm id with AR of 3.6 and 4 respectivly.

the plan is a, delicate might fit best, bracelet. the girl i'm planning to give it to is quite slim, big heavy jewelry doesn't look good on her. and i expect 200 rings will probably enough?

still gotta ninja her wrist size, but small. i think one of those locks with a small chain is nice so it will always fit.

>>38141
lol just checked some other metals. 12.5 pounds for 100 sterling silver rings, 0.8 pounds for stainless steel. why does silver have to be that expensive.

(beadsisters prices)

>>38150
just emailed a local bead store if they can supply me with that kind of stuff. and with 1500 different beads i can always check for some nice stuff to make her a pair of matching earrings

>>38150
>>38210
Oh! That sounds like a great idea.

Bay I suggest byze or box weave with sections of beads on wire in between the sections of the weave?
http://www.davidchain.com/tutorial.htm
Here are some examples.


Persian weaves look really pretty in silver too!

>>38218
Actually, pretty much everything looks great in silver...
Just need correct ARs.

>>38226
thats why i asked here for some advice about the AR in this post>>38141

>>38283
Here is a search on MAIL for an AR of exactly 3.6
http://www.mailleartisans.org/weaves/weavelist.php?ar_type=mid&operation=eq&first_digit=3&am
p;second_digit=6&single=on&mode=AR

Here is for AR of 4:
http://www.mailleartisans.org/weaves/weavelist.php?ar_type=mid&operation=eq&first_digit=4&am
p;second_digit=0&single=on&mode=AR

An AR of 4 has many more options.


http://www.mailleartisans.org/weaves/weavedisplay.php?key=184
http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=29610
These looks gorgeous.

Was just looking for some dainty one to two row weaves.
Hope this helped!

>>38141
>>38295
oops i'm stupid, i was talking about byzantine, i realy like that one

>>38296
Oh!
Okay, you can to byze with that.
You can also put three rings instead of two between the units.
or beads between the units.
or alternate three and beads.

All of the above would look very nice.

do want.

I want to make a byzantine bracelet for my girlfriend, but i've never done anything like this before. Do you think a byzantine would be a good thing to try first? What size should I use? What other tools will I need? I've seen flat pliers mentioned, does their size matter in relation to the size of the rings? is that all I will need?

>>36026
>Buy fucktons of rings
>Make 100 or so of them.
>Sell at ren-faires for 30 bucks
>Keep making more at the faire.
>???????
>Make out like a bandit.

>>35601
Where's this from, if you don't mind me asking

>>39223
Google image search for chainmail.
Try an image backtracker?

>>39223
>>39223

merlin

>>38933
Pretty much what i'm gonna be doing soon, although theres no renaissance fairs near where I live. And that piece took me about 3 hours to make. SS is *tricky* to work with.

>>39584
>>39598

>yfw you realize no one with that body type will ever wear that

>>39618
Um... I'm OP and making the bikini in the first pic... and probably something like those too.

>>39618
>>39618
>yfw you realize that money can make people do things

anyone got a guide for making a shipping container out of chainmail?

You should answer >>38931
i'm in a similar situation. What's a good starting weave?

Femailler in KY.

http://theringlord.com/ has the best selection of rings (metals and AR) that I've seen so far. The forums also cover any questions of any project you can think of. Shipping is pricey, but they're all I've ever needed.

As a slim female, I know that the bikinis exist and even look better on from the flow and sturdiness) but they pinch terribly where it's usually unappreciated.

I started with the Euro 4-1, and once you make it and really study it, you seen it in EVERY geek movie with old school armor or fantasy, like LotR. It also seems to be the most recognizable as far as the craft goes.

>>40008
Opps, missed that post there.
Byze is really good.
So is box weave.

http://www.davidchain.com/tutorial.htm
These are pretty good.

I've wanted to try making split-ring chain mail for a while, but I always get stopped because:

Where the fuck do I get thousands of split rings for cheap?

Welp, this thread made me go look through thousands craft supplies to find my wires, polishing an old one right now.

I wonder if I can still make this, I got a horrible tendinitis by making a box maille bracelet with way too hard wire ten years ago.

Half-persian 4/1 is what I use for bracelets most often. The rectangle sits well, and you can make seamless loops that are much more inter-connected than byzantine.

Box chain is just too boring and loose to look at.

>>38141
i'm still wondering what you guys think will be the best AR for a bracelet. the finer the better, but is has to be craftable/wearable

>>39584
>>39598
i want that for my gf NOW

could you guys please archive this thread ? I would like to learn this but I dont have time now

>>40433
most of the time the thread survives the night

>>40506
yea, but I would like to look at it after a week or more

>>40398
byzantine btw. just curious what AR would look best if you want it to be slender (dont know the right word)

So. I make jewellery and I am bored. I have a fuckload of rings. So trying this :D

>>40433
last thread survived several days far as I know

>>39831
This
http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=4182
You'll need upwards of 50,000 3*3 cubes....join them like's been done in pic.

>>40558
I like 3/16" ID 18 gauge, as well as 1/8" ID 20 gauge. 18g is about the biggest you want for jewelry, anything else is a punk rock costume. 20g is good for jewelry, smaller than that and you're putting a LOT of work into even simple things.

>>40558
This was for th AR of 4 I think?
Are you the silver person?

wish me luck guys, just started my first ever, i have 100ft of 14 gauge galvanized steel wire, two pairs of pliers and a cutoff wheel for my rings, using a ratchet extension for my forming rod

>>40900
yes
>>40653
so the 3.2 mm ones ?

>>40433
How about bookmark the links in the thread? They contain much more than we can cram in a thread. M.A.I.L is particuarly good, they have lots of stuff for beginners.
Also ordered more wires tonight - hopefully some new creations soon!

Sorry, I've been so busy and only have a moment to bump.

what would you recommend for functional armor?

bamp

>>43341
Depends on what you want.
I really like chain mail, but I've heard plate is awesome and want to get the tools to make some.
scales look pretty snazy too.

where are all the chainmail pics, we need moar!!!

Dragonscale, my favourite weave.

>>44825
I was planning on chain, with the option of plate attachments at a later date.

What's the legality of maille in public?
I'm UK based but I'm sure some Americans would like to know this as well.

>>45382
you should make that with black and another color for the smaller rings

bump

>>45825
completely legal in the uk, just gets you strange looks.

>>43341
>what would you recommend for functional armor?

for functional armour, you cannot get away with butted maille (rings where the ends just line up to each other). you need riveted maille where each end is fixed to each other to make a wholly solid link.

that, or use plate.

So what do you guys recommend for sealing rings? I just got back into doing small chainmail pieces (after seeing this thread) and I'm curious if most people weld the rings shut or not? If you do, what's the best method? Soldering iron? Welder?

Americunt here.
Yeah, it's legal. I barely get weird looks, living in Austin, but yeah, I walk around in arming doublet and maille on top of that.
Might not anymore, now that the temperature is dropping...

>>48262
honestly, I don't even bother. just close them up well and it's not really an issue.

i have some bare heated iron wire laying around, about 15kg, and managed to make about 4kg into coils and started weaving the easy pattern.

question: anyone got a neat technique to turn the coils?

>>48262
Well, if you're trying to make functional armor, you want to pound the ends together and rivet them, but otherwise you really shouldn't bother.

>>48418
make a wood and metal mandrel from two blocks of wood on a 2 foot long board with holes drilled through it like this rough pic, and the mandrel rod from M6 threaded rod. just bend the end into a Z shape as a handle with a bit of leverage.

then either drill a hole through the rod to thread the wire through, or clamp it in place, and wind the handle around and you can feed wire into it to make a long spring-like rod. then just use snips to cut it up into links.

wear safety glasses, and DO NOT try to save effort by using a power drill - that's asking for it to pull your finger in, and either break your finger(s), rip the fingers off, or deglove the fingers.

>>48418

Now with MSPaint diagram!
pull the wire towards yourself and slightly towards the drill to keep it in a tight coil.
PS. This is probably not safe, but it is quick and effective!

>>48418
Yup, I just made these today. Go to a Home Depot or Ace Hardware and they should have a little metal kiosk thing somewhere in the store. In there, find a metal dowel rod that is roughly the diameter that you want the INSIDE diameter of your rings to be. The good news is, most maille places measure the rings as a standard size for the inside diameter (ie: ID is 3/8, or 1/2, etc). Anyways, buy a few (I got 3 today for about $5 total, 3/16, 1/4, and 5/16, a pretty decent mix).

Now find a small drill bit, just slightly larger than the wire you want to use and drill a hole near one end of the metal dowel. Clean the dowel off and load it into a drill. Feed a little bit of wire into the hole you drilled, then use the drill to turn the wire. Wear a glove and go slowly and the wire will wrap around the dowel really well.

Pic related, the 5/16" dowell I just got along with some coils I made out of it. Took me a total of about 5 minutes to make the 4 coils, which I imagine will give me quite a few rings. On one end of the dowell you might be able to see the hole I drilled.


>>48466
I did this originally too, with the wood block and bent mandrel. It works, but is slower and produces coils of the (in my opinion) same quality.

>>48466
>>48469
HAHAHA

>>48473
Forgot the pictures.

>>48473
>>48469
>>48466

ok... hm... thought about this bc i have a lathe at my shop... problem is the wire was send to me already in coil form as you may have guessed. but if i use the lathe i end up twisting the wire in itself.
these rings are then in turn of very poor quality.
at the moment im making the coils by hand and then cut every ring with a boltcutter.
this is a very time consuming process. 1 coil 1m in lenght take about 1h. another 1h for ring cutting.
any suggestions to speed up the process.?

oh for all you out there using bare iron for rings and worring about rust. my father told me they used to cook bare iron in oil(about 150°C or higher don't remember) in the oldern days.
we had nothing in eastern germany at the time ;)

i will report back if i have results... pics and stuff...

>>48505
>>48473 here

>twisting the wire in itself

The wire I used came in small coils as well, I found the best way to avoid it coiling over on itself was to stretch the wire out along the floor a little bit. It doesn't have to be perfect, but I'd unwind about 10 feet of the wire along the floor, cut it off the main coil, and then wind it up. Cut it off the mandrel, then do another one.

You'll notice in the picture I posted there's one short coil as compared to the other 3, the short one is actually the first one I did where I wasn't sure how much wire would fill up the mandrel.

>>48469
you, mate, are going to have a distinct lack of fingers someday soon if you use that method.

this is a SFW board, and therefore I am somewhat unwilling to post this pic, but I'm going to risk a ban solely because I think it is importnat to show you how FUCKING DANGEROUS using a power drill is.

becasue this is what using a power drill to wind coils is likely to result in happening to you:

>>48505
Oh, another thing, I personally wouldn't use a lathe. I know I used a cordless drill, and there's a bit of risk there, but at the very least I could take my finger off the button and it would stop. Lathes don't typically have such a feature, and if your hand gets caught in it you will have a very VERY bad day.

Either use a manual wooden block and mandrel setup, or no more than a drill on low speed.

>>48508

ok obvious... i feel stupid now... anyway i'm looking for some kind of crank for my coil forming rod...

>>48511

thats why i'm not using my lathe... i need them... mostly for fapping but that's another story...

Oh shit, what is this. I want to start doing this chain mail stuff right away. fuck I want.

>>48544
Get to it, it's cheap to do. Buy some cheap (and easily bendable) wire from Home Depot or Lowes, two pairs of (comfortable) pliers, and the few items detailed above to make your own rings.

They won't be pretty, but it will get you some practice doing various weaves. Then you can look into doing jewelry work with precious metals or just fancier looking stuff; or actual armor and the like out of stronger materials.

>>48544

easy... buy rings, get a good audiobook, 2 plyers.

start weaving mofo... damn bro dat shit is dank

>>48511
Just use a drill at slow speed? :\

>>48544
I know I'm going to start making the ladies stuff

>>48553
still has way too much torque, and the potential to get lazy and try to power it through fast.

its not worth the risk. you're saving yourself 30 seconds, on making 2-300 rings that will take you a good hour or more to assemble. Its not worth the risk, for such a tiny amount of saved time, and winding them by hand tends to give a cleaner, tidier result too.

>>48553
Better yet, an impact driver, max speed. That way you'll get a clean cut when it inevitably wraps around your silly little digit.

>>48586

exactly...

as mentioned before i use a boltcutter to cut the coil into rings... i tried using a dremel before but that send the rings fly through my shop. not desireable. but the cuts with the boltcuttervs. the dremel cuts are not very clean and the rings look a bit ... like a half ass kludged...

ideas?!

>>48602
get a pair of aviation snips, and if you're doing really small rings slowly (dont overheat them) grind the jaws till they're narrower, so you can slip them into the rings and snip them off 2-3 at a time.

>>48511
>this is what using a power drill to wind coils is likely to result in
Not that guy, but why would you hold it? I was picturing using a simple eyelet or other guide so you don't have to hold the anything other than the drill.

Of course, the fancier way would be to use an eyelet attached to a nut on a threaded rod (you'd also need a guide rod). The only issue with that is you might have to match the pitch or at least get close, which could mean different rods for different wire sizes.

A small metal lathe would actually be better for this, since you could set the pitch and use the carriage. I'd even go as far as to build a spool holder for the tool post or bolt it directly to the carriage so the exposed, unwrapped wire is very short (1 inch or so). You could have hands off wire wrapping.

1. Start wire on rod
2. Place spool on holder
3. Start lathe
4. Stand clear and watch
5. ???
6. Turn off lathe and have nicely wrapped wire on a rod

oh a full lathe with carriage drive and the likes would likely be better, but I'm assuming for the guy whos not got such tools, and the time to make a huge dedicated setup for making thier links.

and its more a case if you're feeding the wire in one hand, and rotating the mandrel with the other, sooner or later your focus will shift to turning for a moment - be it by hand, or checking that you're not twisting the drill, as the hand feeding the wire will move with the wire very slightly. hand-turning, you'll get a pinch and you stop the turning in 1/4 of a revolution. with a power drill, its got torque and momentum, and it'll make at least one or two rotations before stopping - enough to really fuck up the feeding hand.

simply put, its not worth the risk. its like saying "oh, I wont get things in my eyes, I dont need to spend $5 on a pair of glasses.

sure you can ignore it, but its fucking stupid.

>>48611
in theory this sounds nice ...
but think about it... you will need some kind of alignement for the wire to get a nicely wound coil. even when you wind them by hand you end up having a streched coil, which ring will in turn not be identical and have a random diameter. and more important you end up hurting yourself when things go bad... DON'T USE A LATHE OR POWERDRILL

>>48608
Aviation snips are meant to cut through aluminum, not steel. I sure hope no one is making mail out of aluminum.

Some of you guys are complete pussies. Power drills and lathes aren't going to take your fingers off if you're intelligent enough to keep your damn hands out of the work area.

Which is, you know, only a basic safety precaution.

>>48632
I've used that exact model of aviation snips for cutting 1.6mm thick steel wire, for the last 7 or 8 years, and also use the same snips for 1.2mm carbon steel plate.

they will work perfectly fine for maille-making wire unless you're making ghastly 1/2inch internal diameter, 1/16th inch thick rings or something horrible like that.

>>48650
because all the many such accidents are simply "pussies" and stupid people, not intelligent people who make a mistake?

I wear safety glasses, tie hair back with at least two ties, a bandana/headscarf, and despite that, have had a power drill get caught on a lock of hair tangle, and get pulled into my face at speed, because I happened to see movement in the corner of my eye, looked around for a fraction of a second as I was drilling, and the movement by sheer fluke made a single lock of hair move, and slip out from under the headwear I had on, into the drill.
I'm lucky, I only tore a inch diameter chuck out my hair, not a lump of flesh out of my scalp.

Safety measures do not prevent accidents, they simply minimise risk.
Bad luck, mistakes, distractions from other people, or other people not following safety precautions are all a risk, and not observing common sense precautions like "do not use a power drill to save 30 seconds of time when a hand winder prevents any risk of accident" is plain stupidity.

you may think you're immortal, but I'm older, and know well enough that I am mortal, and that idiot mistakes can and will happen. That's not being a "pussy", that's called having the brains to know that swinging your dick around will only result in it getting caught in the machinery.

>>48674
Mistake #1: having long hair around machinery
Mistake #2: not wearing a hairnet
Mistake #3: getting distracted
Mistake #4: Having body parts so close to high-speed machinery

>>48674
Jesus fuck, its people like you that have accidents in the first place because you can't follow simple and easy safety standards.

My hair is down to the middle of my back and all day today I used 2 different drills in all angles even upside down a time or two. I had my hair up in a bun and netted down very well with a large handkerchief tying up over that. No loose ends and no way for there to be loose ends through normal use and movements (abnormal being something hitting your head and dislodging everything.)

The only excuse a person can really have is when someone else comes up to them and does something fucking stupid.

>>48693
#1 - tied back, with a reduandant extra backup.
#2 - wearing headwear for further coverage.
#3 - a flash of movement, yes, the mistake. despite multiple precautions. However, I'd not want to be drilling if, somehow, the cat had managed to get in the workshop and was walking by. hence the moment's distraction.

#4 - my hair reaches almost to my waist, and has done for the last 20 years of my life. turning my head around was enough for the one lock to fall loose, and despite being well out of the way of the drill, somehow get snagged.

such accidents can happen, despite multiple levels of precaution and prevention. and the same applies to having your hand a few centimetres away from a rotating mandrel, feeding wire into spirals. and that's the point I am making. mistakes happen, and sooner or later, using a powered winder, an accident WILL happen, that can be prevented.

>>48741
>#2 - wearing headwear for further coverage.

Still not a hairnet. That is a KEY element.

>>48756
apologies, I misread your original comment not as "hairnet" but "helmet". (duh)

actually, I find hairnets are worse for me and dont actually work with my hair. hence tied back and covered


That is however, irrelevant to the fact that feeding wire into a rotating mandrel with a hand an inch or two away is asking for trouble, when combined with a power drill.

As has been said already, you're trying to cut a corner in time and effort that will save 30 seconds, on production of something that's going to take hours to complete. unless you're born with the gimpiest arms on planet Gimp, there is absolutely no reason to add in risk when a simple bend in the mandrel to make a crank will do the job just as effectively, and eliminating all risk.
trying to cut the shortcut for such a pointlessly insignificant fraction of the time taken - particularly if you're making proper riveted maille - is just plain stupid.

it's like painting the Sistine Chapel roof, and not bothering to rope yourself onto the gantry each day, as it'll save you 60 seconds that'll allow you one more brushstroke...

on the other hand, if you think you're immune to shit luck, unexpected distraction or simple errors, go ahead, be a fucking idiot.
I sincerely hope you are lucky and dont have an accident. but if you do, you've only got yourself to blame.

>>48796
>with a hand an inch or two away

Mistake #5

>>45382
What size rings did you use for this? I'm thinking of making a choker out of that weave.

>>48823
if you dont have your hand that distance away from the wire as it spools in, you will get loops that arent even, particularly on a thinner wire if you're making roman or saxon 4mm ID riveted wire.

which, again, is something you'd have known if you'd ever actually done this, instead of being a n armchair expert, as I rather get the feeling you are.....

>>48835
With all the wire gauges I've ever used (14 and 16g, in both aluminum and stainless), you can easily feed from a foot away and still get perfectly tight coils if you're using a drill. Which gives you plenty enough time to let go if something happens, or to let go of the bench-mounted deadman switch you've hooked the drill up to, if you know what you're doing.

So anyone gonna post some work instead of whining about safety precautions?

>>48828
20ga 3/16 & 20ga 1/8 Anodized Aluminium. But please realise that this weave has to be exact. For example if you chose the same ring size and use a metal with more springback the rings would be larger and the weave would be too loose. Can be very frustrating.

Do not do something that other people have been injured doing, Especially around machinery.

I'm back to the thread for a few hours.
Surprised it has lasted this long.

>>49158
Okay I'll try those exact sizes. I just hope they're not so big that they pinch when worn. Thanks for the help.

>>34993
I do.
Bought a spool of maybe 1km of stainless steel wire from the welding shop. Don't remember the exact measurements but it was about 16ga thick wire.
Wound it into spring form using a drill and a mandrel. Wear heavy leather gloves for this, like welding gloves.
Used bolt cutters to cut each link because nothing else was hard enough to cut SS.
Used mini vice grips to open and close each link.

>>49542
Sorry, not a mandrel, donno where that thought came from. I wound it on a rod of steel.

fukkin lol

i'm just imagining the thought of winding 1/4" coils at 100rpm or whatever on my lathe. if the wire gets kinked and your hand gets caught you'd have like 5 full seconds to do something about it before your hand got sucked in. you'd have to be incredibly stoned to not react in time

I would like to know what kind of drills you guys are using. I've been using power drills since I was 12 and never once had or heard of any mishaps with one.

>>49542
how exactly are you getting these rings to close, seems a bit odd that you can just squeeze them with pliers to close it off, wouldn't that be when the rest is round?

Eurofag here. Can anyone point a good place to buy rings inside Europe? I also need rings used for jewelry. For now I've only made weaves from basic galvanized wire by making my own coil :(

>>33469
Just 3d print the damn thing.

>>48632


whats wrong with maile out of aluminium?

it was about to buy some/make some rings

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTTSTKesjGQ

guy uses drill to loop wire for rings...

but how does a spring turn into a ring? i dont get it

>>49797
Nothing as far the chain itself goes, its light and looks great anodized. He might have been referring to the dust when you cut it. But that guy seems like a worrywart. The dust from just about anything is bad for you.

>>49808
Cut the coil in a straight line, you now have open rings.

>>49808
you're kiddin right?
unstraighten a ring, what do you get, a semicoiled wire, straighten it again, voila you have a ring!

>>49820

thanks man i appreciate it
>>49821
you sir, are a dick


what do you think about this machine to save time snipping the coil? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gl54XoTSfIQ&feature=related

it makes rings quickly and easily. maybe i'll hire some workers to knit my mail after i take all these shortcuts

>>49828
Yeah that looks awesome, but i've always wondered how much adjusting it takes for different ID's and metals. Would kick ass for large runs of one thing though.

>>49836
All it is, is a tiny saw blade mounted in a trough with a plexiglass roof on top. All you do if your coil is wider than the ones shown here, is turn those wingnuts to raise the plexiglass a little bit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EBni8kQty4 This video shows a little better how it works.

I've understood that the saw blade has to be really small or the ring loses to much material in the process and it won't keep it's shape so well anymore. That is where cutting with cutters comes handy since they squeeze the wire without taking material off.

I don't know what that bullshit about drilling being dangerous was.It's perfectly safe (unless you use so thin wire that itself is dangerous to handle carelessly) and pretty easy to execute. I don't need rings so much so I just coil it with my hands and get a 40cm coil of 2mm galvanized in about 30 mins.

>>49881
What you say is true about the deformed rings which is why i cut my own freehand with the saw blade. Now that is dangerous as hell but coiling is relatively safe at low speeds.

Bringing this back from the depths of hell for more pictures and info.

Cutting took me more time than winding, even when winding by hand. Of couse, actually weaving takes the most time.

For those looking for photos, here's a right pretty one for you, sterling silver from TRL. 20g 5/32" ID.

Here's another one that looks best because of the matching dress. She sent me a teeeny picture a few weeks in advance of the event, and I made the choker to match. Black anodized aluminum, 18g 3/16" and 1/4" ID. The larger rings were between the Byz 'cells', allowing for the drapes to hang down. Scales also anozied al from TRL.

>>51354
this is pretty cool

how about a prom type necklace? think I could swing it with my date?

>>51358
Well, actually that was for prom... and the next year she went with me. That was three years ago, we're still together.

Aluminum is great for learning with because it's soft and cheap, but if you open/close a ring more than about three times just throw it away because you've made it pretty brittle by working it.

Don't bother with any straight metals if it's meant to be pretty. If you're into re-enactment or something, then sure, go for mild steel. If not, get stainless, or anodized, and avoid brass or copper or galvanized. They're dirty.

Once your relatively efficient, I really feel like silver is the prettiest you can go with. Jewelry means small rings, and lots of them, because it looks good that way. Here's a great professional who shows just how good it can look.

http://www.silverweaver.com/categories/all.dhtml

Remember, Euro 4/1 is an armor weave, not a display weave. Byzantine, Persian, Half Persian, and some Japanese weaves can all look good if you're clean with the execution. (example of a half-decent japanese here, taken from my phone lololol)

>>51380
thanks bro

>>51346
>>51380

4-1 is an armor weave but can be used as a connector in necklases and such. I think Byzantine, Persian and Half-Persian are more of chain weaves (which does ofc suite many needs in jewellery). Basic japanese look too simple to me. Japanese 6 in 1 makes it look a bit more special but then it starts to be more of an armor weave again. Half-persian 3-1 is most favourite of mine atm.

Anyhow here good instructions to some of them:

Half-persian 3-1: http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=6207
Byzantine: http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=11463

If you want to make a small chestpiece to a jewellery than Dragonscale seems to look very nice as a sheet. Now that I got excited about the subject again I really have to find rings to make celtic star (http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/gallerydisplay.php?key=6881celtic_star.jpg))

If I were so inclined, what weave/ring type would you guys recommend for a belt?

Also, would just pinching them together hold on a belt, or would I have to weld or rivet the joints?

You dont need to do anything as hardcore as welded or riveted rings for a belt. Any weave that naturally forms a chain will do; full persian, half persian, byzantine, box or even turkish round. I suggest galvanized steel if your worried that stainless might be too hard to work with. I use 16 ga stainless for mine and it will never break.

>>52455
I made some with stainless steel rings and scales.
It was the large scales and 16g 5/16" rings.

It holds up well.

>>52598
Being a guy, I kinda want something that looks fairly similar to a normal belt shape, not a chain since those look very feminine.
The other thing (about materials) is I want it to be light but sturdy. I'd rather not do scales because they're expensive and a lot more work.

>>54022
Take the buckle and end from an existing belt, and punch holes in it to connect into your euro 4/1 main body. Use stainless, 1/4 16g is a good size. Galvanized is dirty, and will mess up your pants.

This will take you one afternoon if you're diligent.

>>51346
i love it, what kind of weave is that and how many rings for such a bracelet?

>>45825
Why would it be illegal?

>>48730
>>48693

People make mistakes even after decades of experience the only thing you can do is minimize the risks as much as possible and not cut corners so you can do the job a few minutes faster even if you do both of these things it still doesn't stop you making one silly error one day when you get distracted.

I still remember the time I was operating a lathe, a colleague came over and started chatting, went away and without thinking I just started up the lathe and BANG the chuck key flew 60 feet across the workshop. Thankfully nothing was hurt but my pride but I still regret it and I shudder to think how badly it could have ended.

>>54275
do you think http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=14175 would work? looks nicer, imo

>>54526
sometimes something like that is good to remind you to be carefull. be happy nobody got hurt and make sure it wont happen again.

i remember my first time with a chainsaw, chopping up a tree in nice 30 cm logs, i had the tree on a big block for easy cutting, started at the bottom and went on to the top. when i reached the last cut, my dad was looking away because someone said something to him (i did fine for half an hour without doing stupid things). but for some reason i put the tip of the blade on the block which was 60 cm now instead of having it close to the saw. well you can immagine what happened: the chain gripped into the wood and hurled the log towards me (quite a powerfull chainsaw) well i was lucky it stuck to those teeth in front of the handles, no idea what they are called in english.

well i can tell you, i never ever do that again, it's one of those learning by error moments. i'm happy my kneecaps are still where they belong.

but lets return to CHAINMAIL, i think everyone who has a bit of common sense will get the point by now. and else i call for darwin. just dont have your hands close to wires that are being coiled up by powertools, just don't, it goed fine for a 100 times but that 101th time rips of your finger.

>>51346 very nice, how many rings and what weave is that?

>>54450
That's Half Persian 4 in 1. I think it's about 20 links/inch, and it's about 7 inches long overall. One of the reasons I love that pattern is that, with a fair bit of practice, you can close the ends on itself and make it continuous. It still takes me like 5 minutes for those last few links, but it looks great.
>>55219
I've never used that weave, so I can't really say one way or another.

>>54478 Why would it be illegal?
He said he's UK based, so I think he has cause for concern.

>>55859
/k/'s "banned in britian" is a meme, not reality.

nor is Marks and Spencer's chain of stores the government of the UK. Their sales policy is just that; a sales policy.

Please, dont start pushing that fucking shit in here as well as /k/

lets get some homemade jewelery up in this bitch

do want.

So, I have dropped the chain mail bra project until I open like an etsy or something because a few nights ago it dawned on me that the whole reason to wear one is to show off the girls...
I don't think it will do much for me.
dfc.

Also, the person that ordered my rings missed half my order, so I couldn't make it anyway...

>>55839
thank you very much

i think i'm going to make this for my girlfriend. i've been talking about byzantine first but this looks a bit thinner (the more delicate stuff looks far better on her than heavy stuff)

>>56038
oh btw i think about 150 rings will be enough? (20 ga 5/32)

will it be doable with a thinner gauge?, and if yes do you know what ID would look best. i like the look of that 20ga 5/32 but maybe it could be thinner, just wondering

Why does no one in this thread use aspect ratio when describing rings/weaves?

My hackey sack.

Perfect for every trick.

you welded the rings?

>>56152

For my hackey sack? No.

>>56160
ok a few looked like it (bottom right corner) but i see most don't look like that

Speaking of welded, my mentor is going to start a combat hauberk from punched and welded rings.
That thing is going to be so bitchen.

Starting to collect supplies for a leather breastplate with mail holding it up.

i love the mail clothing/armor but i see no point in making it as i will never wear it. the jewelry on the other side..... i have to make some for my gf

>>56147
Brother, are you using a piece of leather as your mousemat? That is wicked!
Anything special you've done in order to not get all the fuzzy things on the skin-side of the leather all up in your mouse?

so much want.

>>36042
So I want to attempt to make that tie for my father for Christmas.

Anyone know how to do the knot?

I always wanted to make this dress Rose Mcgowen wore back in 1998.
sorry for the awful file name

>>56714

Disclaimer: I have never made a tie.

The first option is wings added, and the second is a piece that wraps around.

Sorry about the quick paint work, have lots of homework.

>>56747
I think those would both work, if perhaps you could do a more detailed description when you aren't so busy I would be very very grateful.

>>56747
>>56772
Red - Tie
Gray - tie after being squished
Green - pieces added

The first one has flaps that are shorter combines than the width of the top of the tie.
These flaps are made with the ends on the bias/45 degrees.
When they are attached in the back, they should pull in the front of the tie to an upsidedown triangle-ish thing.

The second one has a rectangle added on top of the front and tied in the back.
This also pulls in to the shape.
This will also have to be secured to rings on the side or in the back to it doesn't slide off the tie.

http://www.thomasriley.info/chainmail/
Half way down the page (takes a while to load, go pee) he made a tie, might help for weave/ring size inspiration.

>>56793
Friends knot.
It is made with
http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/hpsheet6.shtml
and
attached with
http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/joinhpsheet6.shtml

Just guessing, I don't want to bother him by asking.

Heres some short-length chaps I wanna make in 4in1.

>>56714
Maker of the tie here. >>56747 is right. The second diagram is the right one.

>>56906
COOL!
I was just guessing.

I'm curious how you go about welding or soldering rings together. Do you literally just use a soldering iron on every ring? Or do people actually bust out 120v MIG welders or something?

Currently working on a belt. Mostly a 4;1, though I want to do a persian inspired design on it in another color once I'm done.

So what is a cheap way to close the rings? I can't afford to buy a resistance welder right now. I still need to get a flux wire rig and a few other pieces of equipment.

>>57002
Two pairs of jewelers pliers.

Seriously, if you're using decent quality rings and a good weave, AND if you can close the rings well, you shouldn't need to close them at all.

But I'd do a European 6-in-1 for a belt. For 1, it will look better. It won't catch as much on clothing. And it should be a bit stronger, since you have more rings to distribute the force.

>>57011
If I don't close them all the way it's gonna bug me.

>But I'd do a European 6-in-1 for a belt.
Yes it would, but I already have most of it done.


Also I found out today that my boss used to make chainmail.

>>57014
Ok, if you're insistent on it, what kind of material are you working with?

>>57015
I believe they are stainless steel. I bought them years ago, made a couple bracelets and put the rest of the rings away. I can't remember for certain what I bought.

what would be the price of a super-cheapo chainmail shirt with no hood that only needs to survive for halloween and possibly conventions

like, $100?

>>57028
Also I'm willing to work in other metals in the future if there's anything easier to work with.

>>39348
Be prepared for the booth fee, travel fee, business license fee, and just about every other fee you can think of. Also, having 100 of a single item will guarantee you no sales.

>>48632
Aviation snips work wonderfully on steel wire. They were meant to cut through aluminum sheet, in long lengths. Steel wire is cake, and I used the same pair of snips on galvanized steel for years.

>>51380
Ballsacks. Euro 4-1 is an awesome display weave. People like the simplicity of it, and being able to figure it out. Get yourself some of the rubber rings, and the anodized aluminum from TRL, and people will eat the shit out of 4-1.

Weaves that look awesome, and are good to learn with:
Full Persian 6-1, 20 gauge stainless, 3/16 ID.
European 4-1, 18 gauge, 3/16 ID
Elfweave and Elfsheet, 18 gauge 3/16 ID (the sheet will test your patience for the last side, but it's doable. In aluminum atleast.)

Aluminum is a great metal to use. It's bright, colorful, and cheap. Honestly, it's the only brightly colored, cheap metal you can get. Niobium is bright, but expensive. Titanium is a matte color, and expensive.

Is there a guide for getting into this whole ring mail/weaving thing as a hobby?

From what I've seen it looks to be an interesting thing to take up and would quite like to have a go but don't really know where to start.

What good beginners place/tutorials are there?

What should someone new to this be ready for/ how should they prepare?

>>57060
Ridiculously easy to get into, and see if you like it. I started with rusty mild steel wire I got from my grandpa, two pairs of lock-jaw pliers I borrowed from my dad, and some way to cut the wire I'd wound around a wooden dowel.

www.mailleartisans.org is probably the best place to start. Super newbie friendly, and a shit ton and a half of weaves.

www.theringlord.com is a place you can use to get premade rings, wires, mandrels, and "specialized" equipment (mandrels, extra pliers, special snips, welders, tumblers, shit like that). They've got a forum, but I haven't really hung out on it much, so I don't know how newbie friendly they are.

>>57060
I should say, if you like it, prepare to wear cargo pants / shorts, or carry a bookbag. When I was really into it, I didn't go anywhere without an old plastic card-case full of rings, and 4 different pairs of pliers (2 for larger pieces, 2 for smaller pieces).

Start larger. 14 gauge aluminum, 3/8 ID. Super cheap, recyclable, and best of all, your hands will tire out fairly slowly. Don't start on a byrnie / hauberk (shirt) right off. Bracelets, chains, bags, maybe a coif.

Expect to have to work on your closures. Closures are what make or break maille the most, in the long run. If rings are able to slip past each other and come undone, your piece can easily fall apart. Keep a few of your early pieces around, and compare them to a piece of work from a few months after you start. Enjoy your self-embarrassment.

I loved it. I found the 4 inch square of euro 4-1 I'd made a while back. It was actually a pencil I'd wrapped it around, so it was slightly hexagonal. The ends of none of the rings touched. I promptly hid it away again. But, it got me to go spend 15$ (for a 14 year old with no reliable income, it was an investment) on a 1/2 mile roll of 14 gauge galvanized steel, and a 3/8 rod to wind stuff around. Picked up some aviation snips, and went to town making chainmaille.

>>57060
Weave Tutorials:
http://cgmaille.com/tutorials.shtml
http://www.mailleartisans.org/weaves/
http://www.theringlord.org/forum/index.php?/topic/10298-basic-beginners-help/page__pid__77910#entry7
7910


Garment Tutorials/Patterns/etc:
http://www.bladeturner.com/pattern/hauberk/hauberk.html
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnx0aGVoYXBweWJhcmJhcmlhb
mhvcmRlbGFuZHN8Z3g6MjA5MTE5NzA0OGI0OWNkMA&pli=1
http://www.arador.com/construction/hauberk6.gif
http://www.chainmail.com/chainmall/patterns/coif/coif.html
http://www.chainmail.com/chainmall/cteach2.htm#KNITTING_The_Basics

This goes through the making of rings to in-depth pictures of weaving 4in1:
http://www.noiregarde.org/chainmaille.pdf

Metal types, Wire sizes:
http://www.chainmailbasket.com/making_maille.php

Making and weaving rings to making a garment:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/farisles/guilds/armour/mail.htm

Some inspiration:
http://www.thomasriley.info/chainmail/

gotta save our sweet thread from page 16

anyone tried out scalemail?

moar jewelry pics?

>>55894
Huh, scale in those colorsl ooks pretty good. Reminds me of fall leaves.

Japanese 12 in 1 14g stainless steel hand spun rings. over 900ft of steel used so far.

>>59238
Shit dude, that looks like a ton of work. But it looks really nice. How many more hours til it's done do you think?

>>59238
Good stuff man, what ring size 3/8th?

>>59238
Hey!
You were in the old thread c:
Welcome back!

>>58485
Yeah.
Thats a wrist guard with leather backing.

>>58485
>>59506

>>61326
My text got lost.
I want to make this... in large scales... for the man.

how much would a chainmail upper section cost?
short sleeves, not a very deep neck

>>61333
It really depends on if you want to make or buy the rings, just make this or make more mail, and what metals you want it to be in.

Here are some situations in which each would work.

If you want to make any more after this piece"
-it will be cheaper to make the rings yourself(in the long run)
-but you are restricted in what metals you can use

If you DON'T want to make any more after this piece:
-it will be cheaper to order the rings(compared to buying all the tools)
-you are NOT restricted in what metals you can use

>>57235
This is a post about weaving and materials.
These links will help you in either situation.

Sorry guys, I've been distracted so much.

My saw cut anodized aluminum came in the mail.
I'm in love.
The rings are so soft.
I can't wait to play with them!

Greetings!
I'm just another lurker, have been one since this thread came about and I got curious by what seemed like a fun activity.

So here I present to you all, my first armband/keychainthing!(I haven't quite decided which one it is yet)

My apologies for the image quality, I was forced to take it with my cellphone seeing as my dsl is broken for the moment.

I read somewhere here that a byzantine weave would be a good beginners one, and I had a lot of fun working on it even if I'm quite sure a lot of you are going to shake your heads when presented with my sloppy work.

The wire.. well, I haven't got a clue to be honest, I went out and bought the first best wire I could find, which was a tying wire with 1.5 mm thickness (I haven't got a clue which size that is in Gauge, sorry)
And obviously enough thanks to the picture, I got the coil by wrapping it around a screwdriver which worked well enough for now at least.

I was surprised how enjoyable the simple activity was, and so I'm making some less sloppy coils before making a boxweave chain.

Cheers for introducing chainmail to me lads!

>>62216
No, man, this actually looks really good.
I wish someone made threads like these two when I started!
Byzantine and box chain are the same basic units, but byze is much better to start because it is easier to see the individual units.
I've used Byze for bracelets/anklets/zipper pulls/lanyards/etc. It is very versatile and can also be made in a sheet for garments.
I'm glad that my threads have inspired people to start making chain mail!

I think I will use a method like these rather than the one in first picture.

>>62253
lost picture.
fail.

>>62254
Fuck.
Last time I try to post from school internet.

>>62236

Cheers for your kind words Star

And yeah, I did in fact notice that both byzantine and box chain did share the same units, only that byzantine has (well mine does at least) two rings connecting all those small cube units to each other, I was surprised when I read that box weave/chain/something is started as a 4-1 european weave though.

If you don't mind me asking how did you get interested in making chain mail yourself seeing as you lacked these two threads when you begun ;P
Oh, and also do you have a weave in particular that you like more than others?

>>62265
It's easier to just make box chain the same way byze is made. The first time I made it, I made it from 4in1 and my mentor laughed at me.
http://www.davidchain.com/puno_tut1.htm
This tutorial shows that it is made just like byze.

I first got into chain mail from seeing LOTR, gotta be honest.
I tried with jewelry size jump rings(bad idea, by the by) to make 4in1, which was really hard.
I managed to make some byze, and from then I loved it.

Right now I am really liking dragonback...
http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/dragonback.shtml
I also use dragonback to make half persian 3in1. To this day it is the only way I can make hp3in1.
(Just don't connect the middle in the last few steps and disconnect the rest of the 4in1 base).

>>62274
That.. certainly looks a whole lot easier than the guide I was going to use, thank you kindly for the link.

I think the size my rings have are more along the jewelry size, then again I have no clue on what to compare them to nor any other option for now really.

Do you use Dragonback mainly for chain/belt sort of items or is it possible to use it for sheets as well? I'm still trying to figure out the use/adaptability of all the weaves sorry.

and oh my, >>62293 You just did all that since you opened your new package of rings? I'm just starting on my fifth coil of rings!

>>62311
That whole site rocks.
Thats not my mail, I found it for a reference.

I've make some bracelets from dragonback.

Sorry, in class. someone just laughed at me for being on 4chan...

>>62325
Aah.. that makes sense, then again it would have been kinda awesome if you've managed to weave that during class under the watchfull eye of the teacher. and bah, inform the kind person that there's more to 4chan than simply /b
Also sorry for my rather slow responses, I always take way to long to type out a sentence in my opinion

>>62351
Me too. I'm actually paying attention for once.
I've made chain mail in this class before, I think the teacher might have enjoyed it. Mythology class.

>>62358
Well, if you wasn't told to stop then I don't see why you could do it again haha.

On my side I'm stopping at six coils now which gets me about 340 rings. Time to get cutting
I'll look into building some sort of handcrank later on because I can clearly see that my left hand isn't appreciating holding the sharp wire end against the screwdriver handle, or I could just be smart and wear a glove of some sort....naaaaah

Heyyyyy. I didn't notice your name until now.
My boyfriend is from Sweden c:

>>62371
Haha awesome!
Do you know which part he's from? Stockholm, Göteborg and so on?
He's living over there in the states/canada?(Sorry don't know which one is correct, but I'm pretty sure at least one of them are ;P)

>>62376
His family is from Stenungsund and he lived there for a year and a half until a year ago when he came back to the states.
This is pretty cool c:

Sorry if it seems kinda personal, It's just that I always find it interesting how two foreign partners meet, probably because I'm from a mixed background myself, swedish father and polish mother.
And as for where he lives/lived in sweden, well, it's always amusing to see if we're from the same area :P

>>62386
Alright, that isn't close to me at all!
He was on the far west side of sweden, while I'm on the far east but yes I agree that it's pretty neat :D

Nah, it's all good.

I'm thinking of polishing my pliers when I get home so I can get to using my new rings.
I think I 4in1 bracelet is on order, but I might make dragonback, GSG, or hp3in1.
Really depends on what works best for 16g 1/4"...

Turns out that GSG
http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/gsg.shtml
is good in 16g 1/4".
So I am making it tonight.

>>62422
Sounds good, just remember to snap a picture when you're done so you can show us later alright?


Anyhow, it's getting late over here and so I think it's time for bed for me.
It's been a pleasure talking with you Star, and thanks again for all your advice :)

Someone from old thread.

>>62453

So I bought some knipex cutters (http://www.amazon.com/71-12-200-Comfort-Leverage/dp/B005EXO81K/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=
1320973983&sr=1-2) and I was unimpressed. Here are some pics I took so you don't make the same mistake as me.

I like the aviation snips on the left, they produce a nice clean cut but it can get loose. The rings from the knipex cutter are on the right. I will post a closeup in a sec

Here's the closeup. The orientations are the same. Aviation snips on the left, knipex on the right. Side Cutters on the top, cheap ass bolt cutters on the bottom

Aviation snips seem to be the way to go.
When I start hand wrapping, I'm going to score snap.


So, arrived home, and dremeled the pliers.

Time to make some HP3in1.

here is what I have going...

>>62541
knipex = god tier
fukken love mine

>>62701
That looks awesome, also, get adblock

>>59503
Been about two months of solid work, so probably about another two
>>59310
yes and I have no idea what the inner diameter is for the smaller rings (they are about the size of a pencil inside diameter)
>>59264
:3

>>62748
Thanks c: