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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 67 KB, 400x267, circular-saw-1[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
342798 No.342798 [Reply] [Original]

Hey guys, I'm looking at possibly getting my first power saw tomorrow, but I'd like your advice as to the kind of saw. I think a circular saw might be best for my needs, but someone reccomended a jigsaw, and I want to be 100% sure, since I'm too broke to afford more than one saw.

Basically, right now I have the shitty dremel circular saw attachment and a manual crosscut saw. The dremel saw is gay, plain and simple. It cant cut through more than 1/4" inch. It binds very easily. It has problems making a straight cut if you dont use the extension tube. The $15 crosscut is little better. I need to clamp squares tightly on both sides in order to get a straight cut, and it takes its sweet time.

So, basically I'm looking for something that will do mostly crosscuts, but may also be able to handle 45 degree and rip cuts. The important thing is that it does it straight, mostly. Also, I do most of my woodwork in my apartment living room, and I don't want to bug the neighbours, so it needs to be quiet, and it needs to be portable since I move a lot. Like the size of an orbital sander or something.

Finally, I'm probably just being a little bitch or something, but I'm a bit scared of fucking up and ripping my hand/foot off with those large circular saws.

Halp? Thanks.

>> No.342807

You can do lots of that with a jigsaw and a guide. It isn't the best tool for everything job, but if you're going to wimp out on circular saws, and want this to be a small tool, then jigsaw it is.

And it will bug the neighbours no matter what.

>> No.342810

Circular saws are pretty loud. Your neighbors may get pissed. I guess start with a jigsaw since it's cheaper and not as loud. Use the difference to buy a decent hand saw.

>> No.342811

>circular saw or jig saw

Circular saw for strait cuts, jigsaw for curves.

>takes its sweet time

That means your blade isn't sharp. Invest in a better hand saw next time. Just cause its a hand tool doesn't mean it should be hard to use or slow.

>mostly crosscuts

Circular saw

>handle 45 degree and rip cuts

Rip cuts are a whole nothing beast. They are hard as hell with either a jig or circuler saw. That table saw and radial arm saw territory.

>needs to be quiet

Not gonna happen.

>portable

Theres portable and hand held, you want the latter. They make portable table saws, power mider saws, all kinds of portable things. You want small hand held tools.

>fucking up and ripping my hand/foot off with those large circular saws

Make safety your watchword. Read the docs, take it slow, think about what you're doing and pay attention.

>> No.342824

>>342798
Honestly, dude, I was in your same position but my mind has been made: Circular.

I used both a Circular and a Jig on a recent project (cutting and hanging panelling, making a 32" door fit in a 31" frame) and I fell in love with the Circular saw I got to use on that project. I don't remember the brand, but it had a fucking red laser light for a guide and it cut so fucking straight. I want one.

While the job involved both saws pretty heavily, the majority of the work could have been done with just the circular saw. A lot of the time, the jig saw was used purely because it was the closest tool to hand at the time that could still accomplish the cut.

>> No.342834

>>342798
go to your local pawn shop and buy both for less than the price of one tool new. thank you tweakers

>> No.342835

If you can only have one saw the the jigsaw is a compelling choice. You can cut straight and curved in almost any material including sheet metal.

Note that jigsaws are my least favourite tool in existence. The cheap ones fucking jump around and are annoying as shit. The orbital/expensive ones aren't much better.

You just have to use one to fully understand how shitty they are. Just feels so awful to use. Fuck I hate jigsaws, and scroll saws are only marginally better.

Power tools should not have retract strokes. The bandsaw guys had it right.

>> No.342884

Alright, thanks for the advice guys; I think I'll go with a circular.

>> No.343016

If you don't want to buy your neighbor, and power tools are completely out. Get a good hand saw and a MITER BOX, and pretend you are a fine wood worker.

The first saw I ever bought was a Sawzall, actually, followed by a circ, and then a jig.

And yes, you want a table saw for rip cuts. Depending on the size stock you are working with, a small band saw or better yet, a scroll saw, might be a good idea.

Circular saws are loud.

>> No.343019
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343019

my grandfather gave me a version of this before he passed. sometimes ya gotta respect the old ways. Why drag out the chop saw for one cut?

>> No.343020

Oh, and just because I'm on a roll here, cheap saws are made better with GOOD blades. Nothing I hate more (nor is it more unsafe) to have to use a shop's tools with super dull blades. That's usually why I pack my own.

>> No.343056

>>342835

i agree here. i have a decent Bosch jigsaw, its aas good as they get more or less (affordable, occasional use, etc). You really need to clamp the work, use tape or somethign to keep from scratching, and they do like to jump around (PITA!). But all in all its a handy tool. i cant afford and dont have the room for a decent bandsaw. But the jigsaw lets me cut stock (metal, plastic, wood) for various complex fabrication jobs.

i set up guides with 1" square steel tube and C clamps and get decent cuts.

yo ucannot hurry these things. take your time, go slow, do it once, right. hurry and you fuck everything up

>> No.343127

Go for the circular saw, get decent tungsten tipped blades. Watch a few YouTube videos on how the pros use them, notice how the work is secured and they never put a body part in front of the blade. Every time you go to make a cut, no matter how small, pause and think about where your fingers and legs are in relation to the blade and where the off cut will fall.
And above all get some decent eye and ear protection

>> No.343130

>>343019
>comparing a chop saw to a miter saw

A miter and a chop saw are for completely different types of work. Miter is for fine precision and chop is for rough work.

>> No.343133
File: 89 KB, 600x399, www.abrasiflex.com.au-3573-1309670362.1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
343133

I'm looking forward to building one of these with the electric motor from a dismantled blender and abrasive cutting disks (pictured), which are really fucking cheap.
Basically, the difficult part is to have an appropriate metal fitter machined to attach the disk to the motor's shaft.
Besides that, I'm pondering on whether I should just mount this respectable cutting apparatus underneath a table (with a slit so that the disk appears on the upper side, like a regular table saw) or design a levering mechanism so that it may approach the workpiece from above.
Any thoughts?

>> No.343176

>>343133
>Basically, the difficult part is to have an appropriate metal fitter machined to attach the disk to the motor's shaft.

Nuts and washers. Keep in mind that one shaft on the side of the motor might have threads that turn in the opposite direction than normal. You can just use washers and nuts to fix the discs in place on the shaft. If the shaft isn't threaded then use a tap and die set to make threads on it. If the original attachment is still on the shaft then take it off, just remember you make need to turn it the opposite direction to remove it. Most blender motors have a fan on one side and the blender attachment on the other. One unscrews left and the other right.

Those things can be 20,000RPM easy so make sure the discs you use can handle that. Double check the motor's datasheet to make sure of the RPMs.

>> No.343179

>>343127
>tfw accidentally cut the power cord, shocked myself and dropped the saw on my foot while it's still spinning

good thing I wore flip flops

>> No.343190

>>343179
Didn't the guard flip back in place?

>> No.343191

>>343190
Nope, I taped the guard back because I thought you were supposed to hold it back with one hand haha

>> No.343265
File: 1.18 MB, 300x188, 1352515383168.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
343265

>>343191

>> No.343269

A band saw would be a good choice. It's a hell of a lot quieter than either the circular or jig saws, and you can fit different bands to do different jobs if need be. If you mount it on shock mounts, then to your table, your neighbors might not even know you're up to anything over there.

>> No.343336

>>343176
Sure, the shaft comes with a left-handed threaded tip. Finding a regular nut for it wouldn't be a problem (my front neighbor could machine it for me), but the hole in the cutting disk is still much wider (3-4x) than the shaft. So an adapter piece will be needed anyway.

By the way, do these motors really attain that much speed? The motor probably doesn't even have a part no. printed on, so I don't have a datasheet. My disk says it can take up to about 8,000 RPM (presumably before shattering), so this has now become a concern for me.

Thanks for your reply.

>> No.343727

>>343179
WHY WERE YOU WEARING FLIP FLOPS FUCK

>> No.343731

>>343336
Here's one I have,

http://cnchenshi.en.alibaba.com/product/307594820-200161986/AC_Food_mixer_motor_HC_7025.html

It came out of a $12 blender. I saw the 20,000RPM and was like "Naw". Then I hooked it up and it simple SCREAMS is it so fast. So, my idea of using it as a drum sander was replaced with using it as a Dremel/Foredum-type rotary tool.

So, I would check all over that motor to make sure you find the datasheet. You may even try googling the blender make and model and do some detective work from there to find out the RPMs.

>> No.343733

>>343731
>>343336
I found a little more info about the motor I have. 20,000RPM is no load. With load it is 8,500. According to the bottom of this page,

http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/ningbochenshi/product-detailBbcEwpmClNWq/China-Blender-Motor-H
C-7025-.html

Take that as you will. Oh, and as for filling the space for your discs. Just drill a hole in a piece of a rod then use a tap and die set to make the threads in it. You can make a thing that will screw onto the motor shaft and be perfect for the discs. The problem will be getting it PERFECTLY centered.

>> No.343866

>>343731
My motor looks almost exactly like this one, except for a narrower laminated core. Think I'll give it a try. Thanks

>> No.343874

>>343866
Wear a face shield.