/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2812572
I got couple spools of fiberlogy PCTG, it prints very nicely. It has less stringing compared to PETG and from what I've seen better layer adhesion but that might be related to the way you print it. It sticks to the bed very well and doesnt really shrink, company says that some release agent is required to print it. For smaller prints i didnt use glue but if you are printing stuff with big surface area on the bed it will stick like crazy. The print temps are higher than PETG, my settings are 90C bed and 270C nozzle and low cooling. If you want to try it out and get it from fiberlogy I would probably advise against getting inox and i guess onyx and vertigo too. I got inox because it looked nice on the pictures but turns out it has sparkly additive in it. So its actually sparkling transparent greyish color as opposed to almost light blue steel. Due to high temp the additive gets burned when it exits the nozzle and some of it compounds on it. Maybe it could be fixed with some ruby nozzle but i dont have those so i couldnt check. Overall I like it a lot but its quite a bit more expensive compared to PETG.

> the shame of my TPU debacle made the pic twice
I shall avenge myself ITT

always remember to put hymens in your parts.

What are these little sperm PLA coming off? It's printing fine, just spunking along the way? Extruding too much?

>>2812829
Watch it while it prints. See if its pausing for prolong time.

Are you printing from an micro SD card or through octoprint?

>>2812829
>>2812842
I agree, could be gcode lag
even printing with a usb cord connected to a computer can cause lag, best solution is sd card

Anybody know how to tweak the ip settings for a qidi printer?
i have an xmax3, and wifi works, but i don't want it on wifi. it has an ethernet port, and i've run a cable to it. it's sitting on a 5-port switch behind a usb-c adaptor hooked into a windows 10 laptop, and i've configured a private net.
the problem is twofold:
1. the printer doesn't have any way of changing ip settings that i can see beyond choosing wifi or wired. as far as i can tell, dhcp isn't working, as it always comes up with a default address in some weird range (137.169.254.somethingsomething).
2. if i have the ethernet plugged in when i power the printer on, after an amount of time that far exceeds normal boot time, i get a broken-english message saying that the printer has started abnormally, please reboot.
is there some trick to this? or am i doomed to using wIfI and tEh cLoUd like some npc?

>>2812756
Here’s a story from my coworker:
>he gets invited to our former coworker’s house
>they’re making pizzas for lunch
>the pizzas come out of the oven and are served up
>he notes that it tastes strange
>home owner dismisses it, takes a bite of his own
>also tastes strange
>tastes like resin
>turns out they made pizzas on the silicone mat that that’s normally used for cleaning resin prints
Glad I wasn’t invited.

>>2812643
It'd probably still curl anyway.
If I did that I'd either need two more bolts, which I dont really have the space to put AND anchor into something substantial. Or I'd need to replace my existing two M3x20-25 with two M3x90ish, and thats sucks too.

I'm just going to try full perimeter brims and maybe hotter bed next iteration.... but i need to re-design the material runout first.

>>2812844
>usb cord connected to a computer can cause lag, best solution is sd card
poor little windows captives, we feel bad for you

>>2812846
you need to configure your router to give an IP to it in the correct range, and not just arbitrarily assign some unconnected default wasteland IP
It's possible that theres a file on the printer that specifies the IP/subnet range, but chances are its your router or the device drivng it thats going to be easier to fix.
Assign it a reserved IP by MAC, if possible.

>>2812846
>(137.169.254.somethingsomething).
probably 169.254.*.*
basically just what routers assign when they have no other instruction

>>2812846
you might also want to confirm that the eth cable actually works and doesnt have any "someone rolled a chair over it"-isms in it.

>>2812850
>>2812844
>>2812842
SD card print

>>2812846
maybe try booting printer already in wifi mode, then tell it to switch to eth
if thsat works see if it persists across reboot

>>2812850
>configure your router
No router. An unmanaged switch on a private network behind a windows laptop. Laptop is configured to do DHCP on that interface in 192.168.xx.xx
>>2812853
>probably 169.254.*.*
Probably, yeah. I'm just going off memory here.
>>2812858
>confirm that the eth cable actually works
Hand made by yours truly and verified with a Klein tester (kleintools.com/catalog/cable-testers/network-cable-tester-lan-explorer-data-cable-tester-remote). And it's run through one of those ladder things hanging from the ceiling (picrel). Also, a different printer on the same switch works fine. I just don't know Qidi's quirks yet.
>>2812862
>try booting printer already in wifi mode, then tell it to switch to eth
It comes up with wifi active as a defaullt, and I have to manually switch to eth every time. It's won't boot with a cable connected, as I mentioned. When I go to the eth screen without a cable, it just shows the mac address. Once I connect the cable, it switches over to the 169.254.xx.xx address.

>>2812864
Check your DHCP configuration.
Is it configured to only permit by whitelist?
Add it by MAC if thats an option. Just to see what forcing does.
It's been a long time since ive had a device make my switch toss it into the zeroconf IP void, but there are some quirks sometimes...

>>2812864
also: try a different switch port... one that you know works right now.

>>2812860
Is it a fast read/write micro sd card?

https://learn.adafruit.com/understanding-microsd-and-sd-cards-speeds-markings-and-more/markings-speed-size-and-class

I will forever be amused by carbon meme filament's ability to turn a compressive load into a tensile one delaminating the part in question.
At this point rather convinced that percentages above 5% don't do shit but hurt the part's performance.

>>2812909
Seems to be
SD-C02G Taiwan (2GB)

Have it from years back, it's never been a problem before. I think this is a result of switching from Bowden to DD and then changin the extruder step estep speed

>>2812798
thank you. I was thinking of just getting the white one and maybe a translucent one too, my only worry is that my bed doesn't go beyond 80°C, so maybe I should get only one spool and see how it goes before throwing money away

I want a prusa XL 5head so bad fellas. Please talk me out of it

>t. sitting on a 300 sized Voron, a Prusa MK4 and several older ones

>>2812942
I didn't do much testing when it comes to bed temp. 90C is just the lowest recommended temp from the filament manufacturer and since that worked great I didn't touch it. You might get away with lower but you never know. If I get around to fixing up my printer and recalibrating it after recent mods I could test if 80 is fine.

>>2812972
Do you really need the 5 heads? I have 2 head at work and all it has going for it is maybe the hands off experience. I wouldn't recommend getting it for the price they ask. Especially when the fucking enclosure itself is the price of another decent printer. If you just want quick swap between 2 materials look into newest ratrig.

>>2812972
Why would you want one?

>>2813021
>Do you really need the 5 heads? I have 2 head at work and all it has going for it is maybe the hands off experience. I wouldn't recommend getting it for the price they ask. Especially when the fucking enclosure itself is the price of another decent printer. If you just want quick swap between 2 materials look into newest ratrig.

The price is retartedly high, true. maybe bambu is coming out with something similar later this year but who fucking knows.
Knowing that I could print with multiple materials at the same time tho I could design a few parts differently for example i dabble a bit in animatronics and there are places which are very room constrained. Could integrate some TPU parts directly into the design and print the whole mechanical assembly in one go would be awesome to see.


>>2813038
Being able to print three materials (PLA, PETG and TPU) at the same time without either wasting much time or material compared to an AMS or similar seems like a total game changer

>>2813058
If you want fast and efficient multimaterial printing with more than 2 materials then prusa is sadly the way to go then. There is nothing else on the market that offers that really.

Damn the guy with the nasty printer room got popular.
https://youtu.be/GrKFDTEOQ1A

>>2813060
>Yes, listen to my shi- uh, trust my adoring fans!

>>2813073
Ok anon then recommend some other multihead printer that isnt even more stupidly expensive than prusa xl is. Trust me I would never get this shit for work if there were other decent options.

>>2813075
I'd much rather do a Voron + DAKSH/StealthChanger/TapChanger than a PrusaXL. More capability for less money, hard to argue with. I have hated trying to work with the XL, and it's been relegated to being a problematic PLA machine in the corner because it can't do any of the things we bought it to do. It was a lot of money to spend on an inconvenient 5-head printer that can't print in any useful materials and takes constant babysitting.

This stupid thing's really growing on me.

>>2813086
I thought they were neat when I first them but you've made me want to print one.

Does Orcaslicer keep crashing for anyone else? I can run it for ~5 minutes before I feel slowdown when doing stuff and after a while it just freezes and crashes

>>2813058
>Being able to print three materials (PLA, PETG and TPU) at the same time without either wasting much time or material compared to an AMS or similar seems like a total game changer
How so? They're barely compatible with each other. Unless you're looking specifically into PLA as support for PETG and vice versa, there's hardly a practical use case.

So I got my a1 mini yesterday and so far I'm having a good time printing stuff. That said, I'm interested in making my own models and whatnot. I looked at a few tutorials but I still feel lost. Anyone have a good tutorial to get started? I eventually want to do miniatures but simple stuff is fine.

>>2812829
how else are 3d printers meant to reproduce?

>>2813150
What program..?

>>2813153
Blender seems like a decent start

>>2813154
You want to make figurines? Then check >>/tg/3dpg

>>2813146
>How so? They're barely compatible with each other. Unless you're looking specifically into PLA as support for PETG and vice versa, there's hardly a practical use case.

What I plan to do is to use PLA/water soluble s a support material, PETG as the rigid structure and some flexible interfaces between the parts in TPU as they seem to bond really well as long as the PETG is still warm and can help with motion and dampening. Admittedly its just an idea at this point that i sketched out in CAD but if it works it could help a lot. So a toolchanger would be awesome for that

I wanna print these and have the atoms be PLA and the bond TPU, what "hardness" of TPU would be good to get a decent connection while still retaining a bit of "sponge"? I've never printed with TPU before so I've got no frame of reference

>>2813167
95A is common Shore hardness on TPU you can find ones even with more flex. I find 95A to be enough for my use case, as for yours it *may* be fine you can have to be less stiff with less infill but I would say playing with infill density to get your ideal sponginess.

>>2813156
Eventually.

>>2813150
fusion 360 for technical
blender for organic
simple as

>>2813156
>>>/tg/
>>>make
lol, nope

>>2813190
>blender

Just cause it will get the job done, doesn't mean it was designed for it.

Even thought I can use a butter knife as a flat head screw driver, doesn't mean I should.

>>2813199
And what are you proposing for organic modelling?

>>2813162
So you want to sink several thousand bucks into a not even completely fleshed out idea with no follow up projects yet either? I think that's more than enough arguments to convince any sensible person to drop it. If it's just for tinkering anyway do >>2813083. Although drop the Tapchanger, it's pretty meh.

>>2813199
better than using a flat head screwdriver for spreading butter.

>>2813162
not reading the whole chain but PETG and PLA are about perfect for non-soluable supports. I have a literal full roll of soluable support that I haven't touched because simply using similar temp non-compatable filament is so easy.

Soluble or not you can use the material on just the support interface.

I'm curious about the PETG to TPU bond, that's fucking awesome if true but you need a direct drive for the TPU so I'm thinking it either has to be a multi-head printer which I think was mentioned (no bambu AMS) or you're doing a filament swap, thus it's restricted by layer.

Alternatives would be to sinter it post print or just use appropriate attachment design (e.g. clips embedded in the print) for post print assembly. In other words print all the hard parts and TPU separately but design them to snap together.

Marlin printer;
>Run ABL
>probe probes the bed
>creates mesh
>saves it
>adjust Z offset
>save it
>run a print
>printer uses bed mesh & saved Z offset
>prints perfectly

Klipper printer;
>Run ABL
>probe probes the bed
>creates mesh
>saves it
>adjust Z offset
>save it
>run a print
>completely ignores bed mesh and Z offset and prints in thin air
Klipper is the absolute suck.

>>2813216
>So you want to sink several thousand bucks into a not even completely fleshed out idea with no follow up projects yet either? I think that's more than enough arguments to convince any sensible person to drop it. If it's just for tinkering anyway do >>2813083. Although drop the Tapchanger, it's pretty meh.

The money wouldn't be that much of an issue if the trade-off is that things "just werk". The MK4 i have is a very solid printer and to get to the same build size as an XL i would have to build a 350 voron anyways and tinker with the stealthchanger. But yeah the project is PoC at this stage and I suppose I have to decide if I want to spend the xx hours in getting the voron up or not. Good talk tho, thanks.

>>2813226
I had the chance to test this with a two head IDEX printer and the petg/tpu interface was really solid. But again it was pretty warm in the print area and it seemed that TPU sticks best to the petg layer if it still has quite a bit of residual heat

>>2813120
all 3 of the appimage ones i have crash when i mirror a particular object in X, and then slice it.
But not if i mirror it in Y.
Ive never seen that happen before and I have X-mirrored stuff previously in at least one of the versions, 2.0.0 iirc, so maybe its the particular object

How do I fix this

>>2813370
Buy a new heating block

t. just bought a new heating block.

>>2813377
damn.. i'll try to clean this gunk first tho
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCFOI5kUWQg

>>2813378
The block is made of alumn(i)um. What has repeatedly happend to mine is that duing the change of nozzles, the internal thread of the block either gets worn or blocked and the nozzle doesn't fully insert into the heating block. This causes the filament to leak all over the place around the block. Cleaning the filament won't ultimately solve the issue if the threadis fucked.

>>2813383
ok

>>2813370
make it hot
leave it a while to permeate the heat, then start pulling at it and try to remove as much as you can
If possible do so with it unmounted.... if the cables arent long enough consider making a small 50-100cm section of wires with the right plugs so you can take the hotend out of the printer and still control it with the printer.

Clean, inspect, reassemble, reinstall.

>>2813378
>cloth
sure, wasteful, but ok.
Brass brush is best, or a roll of disposable napkins also works.
>flushcutters
Yeah except you need to be careful you dont clip anything else, so just getting it hot and pulling at it gently is generally better.

>>2813390
>Brass brush
I'll order one of those, thanks

>>2813393
You will probably be tempted to buy the stainless/nylon/brass brush set.
The steel one will damage aluminium and brass.
The nylon one is kind of useless and tends to get melted in 3dprinting scenarios.
The brass toothbrush form-factor also comes in packs of 5, which is what I'd suggest if you start looking at the single brush:freight cost ratio.

Still new to Fusion and trying to make a vacuum adapter. I want to use the sweep tool to take the top face and sweep it around 90°. What's the easiest way to align my sketch with my part? So far I've just been doing janky so I have a flat spot to reference.

>>2813415

So where the hell came Annex Engineering from?
>Design a cheaper MMU
>Design a faster extruder
>Design their own boards
>Rewrite Klipper while they're at it
Their github is quite an impressive read, but other than K3 and Sherpa i've never really heard of them, less that they pushed so many projects in more than one man shows. Or are they just a Voron drama enclave similar to usual dev fork drama?

>>2812756
>8 of OP pictures are mine
>2 of them aren't even 3d print related
Grim

>>2813427
You people make such a big deal out of the automated collage maker. I don't look at your photos and I don't care what does or doesn't make it in. It's just a python script.

>>2813266
there is a known issue with rotation/mirror in orca, no idea when they will fix it though
https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/issues/3856

>>2813453
put me in the next general

my first actual design made in shitty normal CAD because I have a work license

>>2813470
You got paid for that?

>>2813088
If you do, print a mounting clamp for it and use a usb-c 9v trigger board.
I'm pretty sure the mounting + power bank is 90% of the utility I find in it.

>>2813479
I have hundreds of lipo cells I've recovered from shit, I always make custom laser pointers and other such trash for gifts. I'll definitely make this battery powered.

>>2813370
With great difficulty and pain. Heat it up, let it saturate for a bit and pull it off. Pray it doesn't break the thermistor wires.

Are 3d printers in general usable in apartment?
Mostly thinking about the noise levels. Hard to judge that from videos online

>>2813535
There's probably a big, subjective "it depends" to it, but 2209s and an enclosure should make every machine quiet enough to put it in the other room/kitchen and not care anymore.

>>2813535
a lot of people have printers in apartments so it's fine, and there's a bunch of noise-reducing solutions out there, with foam enclosure being the most common

Not knowing exactly how many grams of filament are left is a pain. Ended up throwing away my last print because of it.

>>2813550
I'm an autist about this and I always weigh my spools before I start, then write the approximate spool weight on the side every time I take it off the printer.
I still find it to be off by about 5-15% due to moisture, shitty equipment, and wonky density calculations in the slicer though. So this is not a solution for anyone.
not even me.

>Get AMS unit
>First big print
>First layer shift in many many months
Fuck

>>2813162
>switching
or maybe Dondolo
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:673816

>>2813535
>>2813546
Agreed, TMC2209 are essentially totally silent, the most noise you should hear is, fans, bearings moving, and filament clicking off the spool from time to time.
Enclosures make that even quieter. Plus they make printing PETG and anything above PLA (in 'difficulty') just that little bit easier. Plus it constrains any airborne particles/threads.
I have thought about that often since finally putting my printer into a printer tent. Enclosure really is a desirable, if not highly recommended component.
It even solved my problem of how to mount a light that didnt just throw shadows.

...of course: if your enclosure isnt part of the printers design; you still need to keep its drivers/CPU/MCU coolish, but thats pretty easy if you dont mind a bit of cyberpunk.

>>2813612
I like the setup I thought about doing something like this for my cr10s pro a few years ago, but I ended up just building the enclosure to have the base outside and just cardboard starting from on top of the base.

I am sure you could find printable enclosure for your controller board etc.. to have separately like some cr* setups have theirs.

There was a dude at the local street fair hustling flexi prints. He said he had 20 printers but most must have been ender 3s, there was some bad color banding that looked like "I don't want to throw away these spools" tier. Maybe he'd just gotten down to the dregs but everything was bad colors, and I didn't look real close but seems like bro could benefit from a calibration cube from time to time. Hard to tell if he was making fat stacks with his 4 days in the sun or scraping by - he had a LOT of merch left over.

>>2813621
What was he trying to sell?
I've been toying with the idea of setting up in the local art fair now that I know that my scanner can scan flesh. But it would have to a mail-in service after the scanning since there's no way someone will wait 5-6 hours for a print to finish.
This would be to provide people with busts of themselves, not highly customized dildoes, despite the idea being inspired by digits >>2809222.

How come they still haven't come up with a wonder plastic that's actually good. Like idk a shampoo bottle, a window cleaner bottle. Can we honestly say 3d printers could fool people by making those?

>>2813619
>cardboard
Yeah, but not even slightly flame resistant, I prefer that quality in things I intend to wrap electrically powered heat generating moving objects inside. At least this enclosure I'm using has a small but probably useful amount of fire resistance. I am also a jank-enjoyer though: my printer had its guts spread out on the table next to it for years... in retrospect it sucked. I will not ever do that again other than in the short term. I guess it was a necessary experiential phase.
Umbilical control boards also suck in a similar way when you have no hard frame to attach everyhting to.

Theres also two other blowers inside the box blasting the relevant bits directly, which isnt ideal, but its extremely stable thermally. I havent had it running in 33C summers, but in 20C winter its a very steady 38-40C inside the enclosure.
What I've done with the blowers and diesel hose works nicely, and its still easy to just lift the entire printer out of the tent after unplugging power and eth. Refining the blower hose and screen connector is on the todo list.

>could find
lol, no, i'd design something myself. In the same way that "everybody in the world is an idiot except me": everyones 3d designs suck, except mine...after i redesign and reprint them 15 times before it works adequately enough that it stays installed and I'm over it.
Also I enjoy the process far too much.
Besides; theres probably a lot more people designing stuff for creality printers, people whos designs arent as crap as the stuff that got designed almost a decade ago for this old anycubic. Not that any of my control boards are even original anyway.
Have you seen any decent MKS SKIPR umbilical cases? (Thats a genuine question)

I'm pretty happy with this janky printer resurrection, and cheapo enclosure. It's been quite a long time getting to this point after abandoning it for years, and now it works nicely.
Time to start looking at the pile of coreXY stuff on the 3rd workbench again.

>>2813642
?

>>2813644

Not defending cardboard or anything, it can take a bit before it starts to catch fire. Of course thicker cardboard would be ideal.

However I dont use cardboard, it was a solution to get printed parts for my voron v0.1 at that time.

>lol, no, i'd design something myself. In the same way that "everybody in the world is an idiot except me": everyones 3d designs suck, except mine

completely understandable, thats been huge issue I've had with "functional" 3d prints. So many people make these designs where adding bearing, heat set insert, etc... would make them less shit.

there is probably one person on thingiverse goes by "perinski" that makes actual function printed stuff. I build a few things that he has posted that I have been happy with.

>I'm pretty happy with this janky printer resurrection, and cheapo enclosure. It's been quite a long time getting to this point after abandoning it for years, and now it works nicely.

Excluding enclosure I have said the same thing about my ender 3. When I did a complete thorough check on bolts along with squaring the frame, I did the z belt mod that even made it imo a lot more reliable.

>>2813644
>>2813688
There's not much of a reason to stick your shit in cardboard when a perfectly good enclosure is $25 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C243PNSG/

>>2813691
yep
mine https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005572731048.html

>>2813691

This was years ago, those enclosures were not that cheap back then. I survived no fire happened idk what the big deal is.

>>2813585
Into the jar it goes

>>2813697
Nobodys attacking you.
But the older you get the more you start to recognise potentially catastrophic shit, that can and should always be prevented by a modicum of caution. It's difficult not to sound smug/aggressive when expressing this.
Also: foil-fireproofing an enclosure also makes for excellent diffuse lighting.

>>2813585
Turns out the poop chute got clogged because my little trash catcher wasn't made for that many color changes

>>2813710
Every single time I think about multimaterial setups I go and look at AMS style filament switchers....and 10 seconds later remember the sheer heresy of the purge tower.

Dondolo setups get more appealing every year.

>>2813717
The dondolo setup looks far more convoluted than I can comprehend by looking at mere photos of it.

>>2813471
I did some of it at work but not billable time lol. I have an install on my home PC but if I get bored at work I can work on something fun.

>>2813752
Yeah, its a bit like that.
Basically:
- direct drive
- a servo tilts a carriage holding two hotends
- as it tilts from one hotend to the other it also presses its extruder gear against the relevant filament
- extruders "dont leak" becasue they are parked with a flat plate against their nozzle...theres also zero purge tower
- extruder forward/backwards is relative to each hotend... what is extrude for one hotend is retract for the other, and vice versa...depending on which is engaged at the time.

Video makes it easier to comprehend.
They arent as big as they look either.

>>2813756
I'm nmot sure why this one makes a purge tower, maybe hes getting some kind of white nozzle fowling just by printing next to the red
https://youtu.be/oy8cMhGkHWs

you can see the filament toggle here
https://youtu.be/erD9FEEfzTU?t=84

lol, they even put them into a toolchanger setup
https://youtu.be/E3vc4A_5x28

head layout
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/b2/59/c7/d4/c6/584d3380aa753bce1b646d3ff0cbc013_display_large.jpg

decent images and vidya
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4629795

>>2813415
>>2813420
Got it figured out, vacuum nozzle worked! Needed something smallish and without a sharp edge to clean the upholstery on my chair (hence it looking gross).

>>2813772
>vacuum
You reminded me that i need a better nozzle for the two almost identical vacuums I recently 'recovered' from worksites tossing them onto the street.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5196304
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1763542
this looks a bit like that you wanted.

I've been out of the loop for about 2 years now, is Bambu still the cheapest option for for multi color printing? I was thinking about buying a Prusa MK4 kit but at $800 it's really expensive considering the alternatives I could get, and I heard the MMU from Prusa sucks ass. I don't want to own a Bambu (or any other always online printer) so I guess my alternative is that enraged rabbit carrot feeder or whatever it's called

>>2813793
I poked around a few pages of Yeggi to see if there was something already made, but none were the right size/shape, and this was a good excuse to learn the loft and sweep tools. That second one is about what I'd need, but mines a 32mm hose, and the important bit was the rounded edge, I didn't want to risk scuffing up the fabric.

Next print: Gridfinity holder for my Lisle tap sockets. Drives me nuts how many people will make socket holders that are based on the OD of their specific sockets instead of just using the standard sized holes they all have for the drive.

Explain. I always thought this was a joke.

>>2813535
I had a Neptune 3 Max and it was moderately loud, like you couldn't sleep in the same room and ignore it
But now I switched to an A1 Mini and jesus christ this thing is quiet at lower speeds. There's times where I'm in the same room as it and I genuinely forget it's on

>>2813799
If you want two materials go idex, if you're happy with a bit of waste bambu does 2+ the best for a good price, specially the linked multi ams shit with 16 color

>>2813642
It's called PETG you nigger, literally same plastic as you mentioned.

>>2813857
It's PET, you retard. It gets glycol modified for 3d printing at lower temperatures, though you can buy PET filament. It's a pain in the ass unless it's CF filled.
That being said I still have no idea what >>2813642 is trying to say.

MOTHER FUCKER FAILED RIGHT AS I CHECKED IT OUT FUCK
screw 0.6 I'm going back to 0.4 for a bit and trying again

>>2813863
Literally same, yes. Printed fillament from PET bottles as well, almost no difference, albeit PET has tendency to clog and you need to be more stingy on temperature settings. Also pain in the ass to hand feed pieces of fillament made from bottles. As for everything else, same chemical resistance, same properties, from user standpoint literally no difference. PETG parts has same characteristics as made from PET, maybe lower glass temperature, yet everything else are the same.

>>2813857
Some bottles are polypropylene. Others yet polycarbonate. You can make a bottle out of a lot of polymers.

Has anyone tried selling prints to friends and family? I feel like selling those articulating dragons online is a saturated market but it might be different if you're selling to "normal" people

>>2813933
>selling to family and friends
i give them that shit for free, design your own product to sell

>>2813942
But I'm a neet and I just want a bit of extra dosh on the side

>>2813950
>neet
If you're selling to family, you're not a need, you're a leach.

>>2813799
Isn't it ironic that another anon >>2813425
already posted the obvious cheaper solution?
https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/TradRack

And please bring better coffee next time or just leave it.

>>2813844
>Putting CF in TPU
It is a joke.

>>2813933
>Selling garbage to friends and family
Come on, anon.
You can still sell your ability to create custom designs - "solutions" fairly easy, with a printing service as bonus. That's been the status quo for quite a while anyway.

After nearly four months, it's finally here.

>>2814011
Do NOT scan your peni- aw too late.

>>2814013
My workrbenches are far too cluttered to even open this thing up and test it.
Dick scanning will have to wait another week or two.

>>2813886
>0.4 - takes longer to fail at the same place in the same way
you said it was layer shifting thats the failure, right?
why would a nozzle size switch make any difference to what is obviously not a nozzle size problem?

>>2814055
no the layer shift was because the chute clogged because my container was full. That wasn't the nozzle issue. What *IS* a nozzle issue is now nothing is fucking sticking to my build plate since I changed to the 0.4mm nozzle.

>>2814077
Neat. Share some results. Reviewers are always shit and I'm still desperate for a scanner to get good scans of small things, think "paperclip to smarphone" range of size, so if you make any attempts at small objects I'll be very interested to see.

>>2814083
AGHHHHH I WASHED MY BED WITH SOAP AND WATER THIS MORNING AND NOTHING AND NOW I WASH IT AGAIN AND IT'S GOOD AS NEW WTF

>>2814011
In the four months it took to ship, gaussian splats and the latest iPhone have surpassed its technology. But then software is still kinda shitty. GG.

>S24 Ultra doesn't support the Samsung 3D scanner app
What the fuck

>>2814093
>>2814095
Does the pixel 8 pro have a similar feature? Because I can certainly compare the two.

>>2814090
AND THEN IT'S NOT AGH THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY

DAY 12(?) OF FALLOUT

> try printing PLA after the TPU / DD estep switchover disaster
> change nozzle, but thread in heating block is stripped, nozzle won't fully insert
> fuck it, print
> PLA absolutely everywhere, in the heating block, in the hot end, everywhere
> order new heat block
> absolute nightmare melting off the PLA off the old heat block
> finally managed to get out the thermistor and heating element as the PLA had leaked down into the threads
> tear the thermistor cable in two, it's now trash
> have spare thermistor, have to remove old one and route new all the way to the motherboard
> level the printer
> offset the nozzle from the bed
> PLA gets jammed
> maybe it's the direct drive as the lever isn't working
> disassemble and re-assemble all the gears
> not the gears
> tube is jammed, put a new one in
> finally printing
I could cry bros, I really could. 4 hours.

>>2814112
Shit like this happened to me on my ender 3 all those years ago man. I feel your pain. I got their spider extruder and it fucking snapped because it's made of chinesium pig steel and I vowed from then to never, EVER get a creality machine ever again.

>>2814112
Nevermind, it's jammed again.

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

>>2814113
>EVER get a creality machine ever again
I have all the spare parts now though lmao (cries)

>>2814116
They are a great learning tool, but I know for damn sure I had more headaches from them than any other chink brand I've gotten (Biqu and Bambulab)

>>2812823
is there actually any benefit to doing this

>>2814132
Something about maintaining the actual roundness of the hole or something like that.

>>2814134
its so you dont need to have supports trying to hold up tiny little overhangs that are way up inside a tiny hole.... this wasy it just gets bridged automatically and you knock it out with a drillbit like any sane person who runs a bit through all holes when assessing the finished print prior to assembly.

>>2814134
orca will do it automatically if enabled, but most of us are already habitually putting them into all of our vertical boltholes anyway

>>2814139
It's probably easier to understand this way up.
When printing a big hole (head of the bolt at bottom) and then need to print a smaller hole in the middle of the bigger hole... you cant, becasue its in mid air.
So either :
1) the print fails until something snags somehting else and you end up with a big section of fucked print that might end up as a useable hole once you clean out all this fuzz.
*cough* gridfinity combination magnet/bolt hole in the solid bases *cough*
or
2) you hope your support can reach up into the hole and support the tiny circular overhang, and still be able to remove the support afterwards.
or
3) you hymen it in your design with a single layer across the bolt between head and thread
or
4) you hope your slicer has that feature and can do it right

A combination of 3 and 4 usually works almost all of the time.

picrel is the bolt and its boolean that I import when adding bolts, i make any hymens as needed, I only added them to it here to illustrate.

>>2814139

>>2814138
Why not just have little tapered sections between different diameters?

>>2814143
Ah yeah it makes more sense when it’s a large head you need to make a pocket for. Well I use countersunk or pan-head screws anyhow, don’t have any socket-head cap screws.

>>2814146
probably also valid
theres a few methods that dont involve completely covering the hole
>pan-head
It's more for the nuts. threaded inserts dont work everywhere, and suck in comparison to a square nut. Granted, inserts are cleaner and less obtrusive, but square nuts are cheaper, removable, and extremely strong.
Hex nuts are for noobs or special cases where torque applied to them is minimal. Most people using them simply havent realised this yet, which is why so many use inserts, but square nuts ftw.

>>2814146
This bolt being so far inside the model is probably a good example of the hymen/sacrificial layer thing too.
Note that the second square nut slot is only there becasue the model is symmetrical and gets mirrored to print both sides.
...but if you wanted to utterly crush the two sides together you could put nuts in both slots.

Anyone combined the Dragonfly BMS with a microswiss DD for the ender 5 plus?
I heard there are fitment issues, and others say its fine.
Any other DD recommendations would be great too

>>2814132
It's so you can print without supports in an area were supports might be a bit difficult to remove.

>>2814191
I always just go for sherpa mini on my corexy printers. Cheap and easy to build and maintain

>>2814139
>orca will do it automatically
huh. I wonder is prusa slicer can do this.
Slicers have gotten far more useful, but to be honest the breadth of updates over the last five years has completely passed me by.
At most I might use tree supports and gcode analysis for fan speeds/volumetrics.

>>2814191
>Dragonfly BMS with a microswiss DD
But why? Don't think it'll be bad, but it's hardly a cost efficient idea.

>>2814274
I already have the BMS that I bought when my original hotend killed itself and needed to replace it.

>>2814095
What's the alternative? I have a 24U as well. I heard Kiri Engine is good but only with the premium option.

>>2814095
What app is that?

>>2814318
>Kiri Engine is good
>microtransaction software with ads.

>>2814345
That's all I know. Again, do you know an alternative?

>>2814355
Not really. To be honest I didn't even bother looking at photogrammetry apps until now. and i'm not really finding much beyond the basic functionality already embedded in solidworks/fusion.

It's coming out like shit. It's for a client. But she isn't paying me enough for me to print it multiple times. Which I'm kind of doing anyways.Really printing over and over has shown me how flawed this tech is...

>>2814374
>it's the printers fault
jesus just stop your print if it comes out like shit and fix whatever is going wrong with your printer Pedro. That would save you time and material.
Ideally you would not take orders until you know you are capable of printing in the way you'd like to

>>2814374
That's not how Cunningham's law works. Ask your question, machine, software, etc., or let it be.

>>2814284
So you need to replace your printhead/extruder? I'd rather put the money towards linear rail on X and use the rest for a Sherpa/Hummingbird/Clockwork extruder like >>2814221 suggested.

>>2814374
Argie bro?

For all the chads (or fools perhaps) trying to tough out FreeCAD, a helpful tip
Use the parts workbench if you want to do any sort of assembly work. Anything that requires making two or more different kinds of parts which are interconnected or built around each other
Part design workbench claims to be the "better" or more standard way to do it with part binders etc but more often than not it just gets in your way

>>2814318
I downloaded one by Epic Games off the galaxy store. Not tried it out yet though

>>2814330
https://galaxystore.samsung.com/prepost/000005201279?langCd=en
This one, wont let you install it on a S24 Ultra

>>2814405
>o you need to replace your printhead/extruder?
I dont need to replace anything, Im just looking to change from bowden to direct drive
im not fucking with the rails because its the one part of my printer that im sure is dialed in proper.
A local shop is just having a sale and I notice that the E5+ microswiss DD is also cheaper.

DAY 13 OF DIRECT DRIVE

WE HAAAAAAAAAAAVE PRINT. Bed adheision is good, flow is good. After disasembling the drive yesterday, I found a bearing on my desk today. Put it back into where I think it goes.

estep; 429
retraction speed; 35mm/s
retraction distance; 0.6mm

Back to TPU tomorrow

>>2814403
The main problem is the flat bed it used to stick so hard I'd break the models trying to take them out. Now it's adhesion is weak so I need to use stick glue all the time.
Also the screen broke but luckily I connected to the WiFi before it broke.

>>2814410
I'm bored, so here's my two cents:
Current workflow is fucked and they know it, as we're seen in 22 and further in what Ondsel is doing.
>Get Freecad 22.0/dev version, don't bother with current stable
>Install OpenTheme and Glass addons, use OpenDark
>Change the Workbench Selector Type to TabBar, if it isn't set. As apparently that's still a default open to discussion to them.
>Part design is ok, but move your tools over your two rows to avoid "scrolling" through your bars. This really hits home when using less than 1920p width.
For the actual usage: Just forget about anything else and ram down your head that Freecad is only about parametric design. If your current piece isn't specced down properly in a sketch it *will* fuck you over later.
Last is in my experience the biggest hurdle for fellow freefags coming from Openscad. Knowing a bit boolean logic is nice, but the Lego logic is just fundamentally unusable in Freecad.

All that said, i'm really enjoying what Ondsel is doing, even if it's not for me. It really was the wake up call needed after Realthunder missed his ever so slightly.

>>2814415
Thanks

>>2814243
No, i dont think it does.
Yeah, it feels like they are coming to the end of what they can usefully add at this point.
The few things that orca has that prusa doesnt are either of limited usefulness, or currently broken.
ie: detect overhanging wall interferes with bridges, so you end up with it going full retard and printing concentric areas with nothing under it, when it should have just bridged it. To make it worse it might happen on 1/4 identical areas in a print.
https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/issues/5706

Scarfing. At first i liked it, and it does have its place, but almost everything is better without it. A semi-related, and compounding problem I'm seeing is that orcas seams are more like a crevice if you leave the default setting on the 'seam gap' setting they added, and even if set to 0 the seams still have more of a gap then they probably should. So choose scarf or seam, you are slightly fucked either way
I'm sure theres plenty of things i havent noticed too.
That said I'm still using orca, so it cant be that bad. A couple of times ive had prusa running to compare somehting and it just felt weird.

>>2814425
> no scintillatingly amusing images of your TPU shenannigans.
*sigh*

>>2814425
>Put it back
put it back, jamal.

>>2812913
carbon filament being stronger was always a meme. it's stiffer and more dimensionally accurate, but overall weaker. it's baisically turning whatever filament you have into fucking pla.

>>2813863
>you can buy PET filament
why, you can get it for free.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpKCfZ4k4uA

>>2814433
Does Onsdel or the new FreeCAD dev versions include the geometry fixes done by Realthunder?

>>2812756
bed welded on my PEI sheet, got impatient and the brim fucked me.

other side is fine, should I try to sand down the metal sheet to smooth it out? I have another sheet that's PEI coated on one side and smooth (soft PEI?) so I'm not worried about fucking it up but it would be nice to have a uniform bare metal plate with some sanding abrasion marks to test

>>2813803
First attempt at the socket tray was too loose, but the 2nd attempt turned out well! Made a little holder for my chalk rollers too, and managed to make both compartments juuuust the right size to get 9 refills absolutely stuck in place. Gonna fix that before I upload it.

>>2814491
no, but apparently the coding is basically done and Ondsel will push out the fix later this year and Freecad will implement it before 1.0
https://ondsel.com/blog/toponaming-problem-is-history/

Is CAD Sketcher for Blender good enough to make simple stuff? I'd still need it to be able to make threads and shit, but moving between precise sketching and freeform building seems comfy

>>2814569
>same mousepad as me
nice

>>2814579
depends what you plan on doing. If measurements arent that big of a deal, like cosplay stuff then blender is alright. For accurate engineering type of things I'd avoid it

>>2814582
thanks, guess I'm still better off sticking to actual CAD then

>>2814572
holy based
finally i'll be able to make the jump from sketchup some time this year

should probably upgrade from my 8.5 year old laptop too

>>2814581
Hell yeah, cheapest on Ali. Buy a spare so you can wash/dry one while you use the other.

>>2814284
>>2814422
Microswiss ain't worth it if it isn't ng or flowtech. Get an orbiter and join the cool kids, or get any of other options mentioned really. Most of it has been tried and tested by now.

>>2814579
See topology optimisation workflows. First you create your hard dependencies(screw holes, anchors, feet), then you model around them.

>>2814589
>First you create your hard dependencies(screw holes, anchors, feet), then you model around them.
sounds obvious in hindsight but I hadn't thought about it at all, thanks for the tip

>>2814579
>CAD Sketcher for Blender
Long time blender user
First i've heard of this
Looks extremely promising, it'll be nice to finally stfu the parametric fags
....
But the way they obfuscate the source/download with some free-but-paywall bullshit that just obfuscates where the download is made me close the tabs in disgust.
Fuck that shit, if you want money dont do it like that, its only marginally better then a fake download links on torrent/porn sites: very fucking gay and smells of windowsanuscode.
They could have had another early user learning its quirks, helping with issue reporting, and mentioning it to others. But not with begging through obfuscation they wont.

>>2814595
can't you get it directly from github?

>>2814598
yeah i did, its set up now, i just had to rant and be a little bitch first. Bullshit like that pisses me off.

>>2814599
I get you, there's good ways and bad ways to ask for donations for an open source project and making you "buy it for $0" is definitely in the second category

>>2814602
if it was that simple id have downloaded it like that, but i found the link didnt appear to work, 3 clicks, then i see on single tab to the gumroad site...ok.... but then its telling me i have some gears thing in my cart and do i want to pay 0$ now....
nope

>>2814595
It's litferally just Solvespace and has been around for the better part of two years.
>finally stfu the parametric fags
You're in the wrong thread.
>obfuscates where the download is
Holy zoomer. Even if you go the gumroad page there's a direct link to the current zip. Don't blame your dyslexia on people trying to get by.

>>2814606
>better part of two years.
hermit lyfe
>zoomer
not even close
>just gumroad
I foolishly expected the big red "i want this button" to do what i wanted.

Dumb question, but if Nylon changes dimensions so quickly due to moisture or humidity, why is it so sought after as "industrial" material? Do these PA12 printed Orbiters even make practical sense?

>>2814626
nylon's waterlogged state is its "default" state. dry nylon is brittle and largely unusable for practical uses, so freshly printed/injected/woven nylon has to be left to sit to take in moisture, and its changes have to be taken into account in the engineering stage.

>>2814629
That seems kinda logical in hindsight. Can i expect services to factor that in for me, or am i better off ordering two test pieces and see how they do after two weeks?

>>2814626
They're sintered iirc, so nylon's fuckery hardly affects it.
It's also the cheapest material that won't have issues with prolonged exposure to high heat.

>>2814636
a couple days in post will 100% do the trick, nylon is comically hygroscopic.

>>2814641
Yeah, SLS or MJF seem to be the standard, but i also found 1.75 filament. Wich i also didn't know about yet. The oil resistance is what brought me to it in the first place.

>>2814643
Guess test pieces it is then. It's pretty amazing how prices of this stuff drop after the first, initial order piece.

How would you describe this issue? Is it the z axis wobbling or the y axis not lining up because the piece was so long and maybe flex under tension from the horned? Would slowing down help in that case?

Also experienced my first power outage during half way through a 48hr print. Thought the ender 3 has some kind of resume function? Guess not lol..

>>2814646
also nylon's humidity is much more of an issue when it comes to our method than it is when injection molding as the vapour affects small features at lower pressures, i.e. an extrusion line. I suspect you can probably get away with wet nylon with alrger nozzle sizes. I did this ages ago printing trimmer line(high moisture mystery meat nylon) and I only ever had marginal success using a 0.8mm nozzle.
When it comes to injection molding the higher pressures will simply make to where at most, higher moisture content affects small details and surface finish. Pic related is two parts, admittedly from different tooling, but with dry pellets vs pellets that literally got rained on. Water in nylon acts as a plasticizer, I feel though have no concrete proof, that moisture absorption after the printed parts has been out for a while contributes to the notion of nylon creep.

>>2814656
>how would you describe issue
bedslinger shenanigans. Either add enforced supports, use a strong adhesive on the bed, or print it at an angle/flat.
Why are you printing this part in this orientation?

>>2814569
The socket tray I made a comment but forgot to send it. I was basically going to suggest that instead of the plastic pegs to hold the sockets to use short SHCS

>https://www.mcmaster.com/products/socket-head-cap-screws/fastener-head-type~socket/

where the circled socket head would be instead of the plastic peg in case one breaks off and may get stuck inside the drive-end.

of course the size you may need (assuming its a 3/8 drive end) may not even make them that short.

Or grub screws.

>>2814662
Seems like a pain to walk over to the fastener bin when you can just print the feature you need.

Any idea why I'm getting the same surface blemishes on the same spots on these models? I'm trying to print the top part of a pokeball and it does not look good, are spherical prints like this even possible to get good looking without post-processing?
Sliced in Orcaslicer and printed on an A1 Mini, other prints involving spherical surfaces have been fine and I haven't changed any settings between them (apart from printing one of the halves with a scarf joint seam but the blemishes are identical).
The filament used is 3djake magicPLA Deep Space iirc

>>2814670
Just a suggestion, you find it to be a pain, then that's that.

>>2814674
post gcode.
probably a retract/wipe or pressure advance fuckery.

>>2814657
From the looks of it, i could only assume dry is for some industrial applications, while wet being for end user parts.
>when it comes to our method
Any thoughts on MJF/SLS? As I would be just ordering it instead of dialing in my printer to the means of 80€/kg filament.

>>2814690
>>when it comes to our method
What I mean by this is our method is comprised of loads of small features clumped together. Moisture fucks with that.
For the other two methods I don't know much beyond dryness also affects resolution as nylon powder clumps.
Just how accurate do you need this to be and if you're going with a service, why not make it out of aluminum?

>>2814662
Interesting idea, but for the price of buying/shipping the hardware, I'd rather just reprint it if anything ever happens, it was only 15g of PLA. I did give it a 3rd perimeter layer at least, but it shouldn't ever see too much force on the pegs. It isn't press-fit to retain the socket, just large enough pegs that there isn't any room for the socket to tip over, similar to picrel.

>>2814656
>Thought the ender 3 has some kind of resume function? Guess not lol..
You have to enable it, and you shouldn't because it's problematic garbage.

Does anyone know the purpose of installing a knomi on a Creality K1 or K1 max? All of the data that is displayed on it seems to be available on the screen that's already on the printer.

>>2814709
>the purpose
Internet points. Nothing more to it.

>>2814777
Thank you for confirming my suspicions.

>>2814695
>Just how accurate do you need this to be
Accurate enough for bolts.
>why not make it out of aluminum?
Too expensive. It's a cubicle piece, so 5axis mill whinery is ensured.

Doesn't matter now anyway. I ordered three test pieces at 98,100,102%. Will see how it works out.

Anons I need some help deciding on a first printer. I think it would be cool to print minis and some practical projects.
Budget is $200. No resin printer as my first one because of the fumes and clean up. At the moment I am trying to decide how big of a build volume that I need.
Can't decide between the Bambu Lab A1 Mini or the Creality Ender-3 V3 SE. Let me know if there is a better option than these two.

>>2814891
The A1 Mini is faster, easier to use, and much more reliable. The E3V3SE is bigger and is a much better candidate for modification. If you like to tinker, if you're happy to troubleshoot, if you like fiddling with fiddly things, the Ender 3 is not a bad option. Otherwise, I'd recommend the A1 Mini, it's a great printer and will be much less of a headache than any Creality machine.

>run bambu studio calibration process
>pick the best line (0.02) and smoothest surface (+5)
>benchy comes out significantly worse
What did I do wrong?

My old ender 5 keeps crashing, doesn't restart print properly, what would you recommend replacing it with that isn't gonna break the bank.
I was thinking of something like the Elegoo Neptune 3 max, but I've never bought an Elegoo FDM. Anybody have hands on experience with one?

>>2814896
I decided to go with the Bambu A1 Mini. I want to change the nozzle to a 0.2 mm one for minis and it looks like that process is a lot easier on the Bambu. Thanks for the help anon.

>>2814911
>what would you recommend replacing it with that isn't gonna break the bank.
A $30 BTT board and updated firmware.
If you want a meaningful upgrade over your current hardware it'll cost quite a bit over the cost of the neptune, especially if you want to keep the large bed size.

>>2814697
Oh no I was just using mcmaster as a example. I buy all my hardware from aliexpress, the hardware seems to hold up.

1st successful TPU print (iPhone case). And we are off to merry adventures together.

Next up, child size 8 US right shoe. 1 day 23 hour print.

>>2814926
do people use tpu as support for tpu?

>>2814932
also: what were the core wisdoms you have acquired in your ascent to tpu mastery, so far?

>>2814932
>do people use tpu as support for tpu?
I guess we'll find out

>>2814937
Keep an extreme amount of spare parts on hand at all times.
Whiskey helps with dealing with frustration.
Patience is not a virtue, stubborness is.

>>2814932
tpu is too good at sticking to everything including itself, the supports would be impossible to remove without extensive cutting. the better way to do it is to make supports out of something super stiff like pla and then massage the tpu part until the supports separate.

Prusa Mk3 or Bambulabs X1C or something cheaper? I'm trying to make some trays to hold ascorbic acid powder at a precise volume. My only experience is resin printing but it's a fucking hassle with all the mess it makes plus IPA washing and UV curing.

>>2814965
x1c its not even close lmao
prusa is shit

How bad is using ABS with a pen?

>>2814965
Don't be a moron and buy a glass.

Is a k1 with a hardened steel nozzle as good as a k1c?

lets say i am willing to spend 10,000 dollars on a 3d printer for making large, accurate parts for dash components on cars. what printer would I buy? so, low end commercial, in other words.

>this is not hypothetical

>>2815021
https://www.piocreat3d.com/g5ultra-pellet-3d-printer/

this?

>>2815021
>large
Let's say you give us numbers..

>>2815017
Camera, air filter, slightly more quiet. Just get the K1C.

>>2814988
Smells good.

So now that the K2 is dropping, think we're gonna see P2S, 5M pro 2, etc. as well?

>>2815033

500x500x500mm, needs to be pellet-fed and able to handle carbon fiber nylon and ABS

>>2815021
>>2815036
In short, that's not going to happen for that budget, unless you diy.

>>2815041
the picoreat3d is 5400 and is 500mm cubed buildspace. it has a hopper for 2kg pellets and an empty hopper sensor. it has the melting apparatus inside the print head, so basically any chunks of thermoplastic that melts under 420C and is smaller than a marble can be used. so that's an attractive looking option.

https://www.piocreat3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/G5Ultra-introduction.pdf?_gl=1*1f2a36g*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTY3MDk3NjAxNC4xNzE4ODgxMzM3*_ga_W2LZXPP53G*MTcxODg4MTMzNy4xLjAuMTcxODg4MTMzNy4wLjAuMA..*_ga_BWJWZD4QCJ*MTcxODg4MTMzNy4xLjAuMTcxODg4MTMzNy4wLjAuMA....

>>2815044
>$5400
>a fucking bedslinger
At that point just send the money to me and i take an extra big dump on it before flushing it down the toilet.

>>2815045

i've seen people print dimensionally accurate, or at least plenty close enough, square rings/borders such as for a fan shroud on it, almost the full width and depth of the bed.

So what's the reason that resin printing is shit? I'm thinking of getting back into 3d printing, but between hardware vendors bricking usb drivers on unofficial chipsets, which should be a factory issue not a customer issue, an Ender 3 pro destroying itself during calibration, because they sent the wrong manual that didn't compensate for buildplate height differences on the pro, and just generic shit like parts lifting off the bed at 90% or warping if the temperature changes too suddenly. I've never really had a not shit experience with printing in general.

>>2815055
Just buy a bambu.

>>2814865
Anon... dril and tap.

>>2814681
Apologies for the late reply, how would I post the gcode?

>>2815078
>Ctrl+C
>Ctrl+V
Use a pastebin, a website specifically for sharing text.
>https://pastebin.com/
>https://pastebin.mozilla.org/
>https://paste.fo/
>https://pastecode.io/

>>2815080
I tried pastebin but it was too long, the gcode file itself is 2.3MB

where is the most likely place to make a few bucks on my .stls? I'm not trying to make a living or anything stupid but a dollar here and there to say I'm selling them is important.

>>2815081
mega

>>2815086
https://mega.nz/file/QyEj3R7a#bgLIbQgV4nb1s21nPiCdBK5Hbc68fIKGZzcrwc-vH3g

>>2815021
You can probably buy an industrial 3d printer on Alibaba for $10,000

>>2815021
>dash components on cars
what material are you planning on printing these out of genius?

>>2815101
Why the harsh question? I print car parts in ASA, PETG, PC+ABS, and Nylon. Even PETG holds up fine in an engine bay, any of them will hold up fine in a 160°F car interior.

>>2814674
it's leaving off at each of those points. randomize z-seam, increase retraction, maybe wipe nozzle (printer dependant) - you can insert stuff at layer X once sliced or possible change settings.

personally I'm basic and would trim with a hobby knife.

>>2815106
Awesome, I'll try out a few things, thanks a lot man appreciate the help

>>2815103
>dash
>160º
yeah no. and color matters A LOT. even just the radiant heat off the back of a black GPS will melt light colored ASA anywhere it's sunny. a dash is very different from a knob, phone holder or switch - all of which I agree are fine in PETG or better.

even though you won't ever do this someone who would would start with a CR-30 or design similar in a slightly larger format pic related.

>>2815109
Would SLS Nylon be ok for a dash? (nothim)

>>2815101
uh, carbon fibre ABS or nylon?

>>2815109
>dash
>160º
>yeah no
What are you, retarded? It's totally normal for the interior of a car to push 160°F in the summer.

>>2815078
Just upload it to cockfile or catbox/litterbox.

okay boys I've been printing for years first with a delta and now with a bambu. if I wanted a commercially available bedslinger with the codicil that it's easy to build and print with out of the box, but not actually pre-assembled. basically I want to sit down with my nephew and build a bed slinger and do the first print together s.t. he learns about it from building but it doesn't take a week to build. and so he has a nice printer at the end. which printer(s) should I shortlist?

>>2815109
so this is the latest horseco.... oooh

Im just going to give up printing for that person I don't want to redo all this and it keeps coming out bad

>>2815222
did you dry the filament
is it a stock hotend

>>2815112
It doesn't really matter too much if it's SLS or FFF printed, the glass transition temperature stays the same, or 60C for PA6, 50C for PA12. Decide for yourself if that's good enough for you.

>>2815163
How old is he? How much tinkering do you wish for?
For a younger range i'd consider a MK4 or MK3 clone (dunno if the first has clones yet), lots to learn and you could prepare the printed parts in his favourite colours.

>>2815223
Don't bother, he's just trolling.

>>2812756
Is there any apreciable difference between thingiverse and printables or is it basically all the same stuff on both sites?

>>2815163
>codicil
a printer with a last will and testament....

>>2815163
afaik all of the i3 (bedslingers) currently sold come in 2 parts, the gantry and the base, and you just bolt them together... so it's AsSeMbLy, not Assembly.

>>2815270
fuck
i'm going to have to go full Stallman and start refering to bedslingers as mendel/i3 instead of i3, given that reprap mendel is the root of its evolution, and i3 is just prusa stealing the limelight

*sigh*, so much for concise and definitive

>>2815163
You should just get him a Bambu and instead of spending time working on a printer you can spend time teaching him how to model useful things.

>>2814926
First shoe is scrap. Supports are too thick while simultaneously not enough. Reprinting with less dense but more supports touching the baseplate.

>>2815301
i haven't printed them but i usually see shoes printed at an angle, maybe that could help

>>2814658
The guy that made it said print it that way for no supports. I had used glue stick but the shitty build plate could be where it’s flexing. Idk either way it’s useless as is and will only fit in the garbage.

>>2815320
Good idea, I'll see what happens if this one misprints or for the left shoe

>>2815320
>>2815327
>angle
person suggesting it clearly wasnt familiar with bed movement making that almost always ludicrously impractical.

>>2814926
i dont understand why you have a raft under it though. Surely some part of it is flat and can be printed directly on the bed to minimise support?
Rafts with hard filament is usually just wasteful, but with tpu it seems like somehting to avoid if at all possible.

>>2815375
The sole itself isn't flat. You can't print it flat without support.

>>2815373
fair, the prints i've seen have been on corexy but can't you just go stupid slow?

What's the best Resin Printer around right now? Considering Saturn 4 Ultra.

>>2815389
i get that it has a rounded sole to help juvenile bipeds walk more easily, but isnt there one section thats more flat than any other? if so i'd be rotating it so that was flat on the bed and trying to minimise supports. Sometimes you can just chop off a slim section of a rounded part on the base of something and it'll still be essentially the same for all intents and purposes.
Actually I probably wouldnt even try to print tpu with tpu support, so theres that too.
>>2815395
>slow
eeeehhhhhh, maybe, but its still flopping the print around in one axis, especially with a flexible filament

>>2815418
also; the reason people tilt shoes up onto the heel is because many shoes have a flat, angled section at the heel strike thats perfect for angling to shoe to. I doubt anyone would do it otherwise.

>>2815301
>printing tall TPU structures
>with some supports that are twenty times taller than they are wide
>on a bedslinger
there is literally no way to get that print without either wasting a shit-ton of TPU on extra thick tree supports, or by using another filament like PLA for supports absolutely everywhere

>>2815417
there are a few 12k mono lcd printers, maybe even higher resolutions
there are also a few dlp printers that should give you better contrast than single lcds and better lifespan too, but they're more expensive for their pixel count
there might be double lcd printers that offer good contrast, but i haven't seen any

ask /tg/'s thread

Bros I recently brought home a Kossel delta from Goodwill. I think it's an older model, definitely one of the originals designed by Johann from RepRap. Before I got it I knew nothing about 3d printers, but this was the catalyst that I needed to get into 3d printing world. Do any of you anons own or owned a delta before? Any pointers on worthwhile electronics upgrades?

>>2815455
How much?

>>2815457
$50

>>2815459
Acceptable, i guess, it's really only worth raw hardware.
>new printing sheet
>new bed if it is old enough to not be heated
>new board
>new wiring
>cooling fan(s)
>closed loop upgrade on motors
>new sturdy gantry rods
>direct drive extruder

Any guide how design pistol?a plastic gun that shoots round plastic bullets

>>2815455
You bought a project. not the best place to start for most, but keep us posted.

I want to print on objects like packing tape or copper fr4 board
close to the edges. How do people get it aligned? Cura starts
with a line probably x=0,z=0, so I just have to make it an L shape
and add an M0 pause?

>>2815266
To be fair, you have to have a very high IQ to understand Gallows Humor.

>>2814911
I have a Neptune 4 Plus, it is a decent machine held back by shitty software. There is openneptune project that lets you install pure klipper stack on it. Can't say anything for series 3 though since I don't have one bit I do know that someone also made custom klipper firmware for them too. Elegoo support is good when it comes to parts though so if you break something they should send you replacements easily, because of custom nozzle design you have to either buy from Ali chinks of straight from elegoo. If you have questions about series 4 I can probably answer more.

>>2815270
>>2815278
>i3(bedslinger)
>mendel/i3
What the hell are you talking about?

>>2815506
People have a problem with the term bedslinger and constantly want another name to use for bedslingers because bedslinger is too confusing for them even though they already know and use the word bedslinger. Some retards like to say i3, because they're retards and think every bedslinger is a Prusa clone/derivative even though that isn't remotely true. Try to disregard the retards. It's a bedslinger, we know bedslingers, and we know most but not all bedslingers are Mendel derived. It's pathetic how badly the Prusa fags want to say shit like "i3 kinematics" and "i3 format" when the kinematics and format predate the Prusa i3 considerably.

Similar to the delta guy above: Is there any good place to get a primer on the nuts and bolts of 3dp electronics? Im reasonably familiar with the concepts behind electromechanical motion, just need the details of typical implementations.
Is the reprap wiki somewhat up to date? so much old stuff in there.

>>2815108
>>2815106
I "fixed" it by using variable layer height and the top surface looks completely smooth now, kinda peeved that I didn't figure out the actual reason for the issue but I guess you gotta take a win when you can get it

Damn bro I almost fell with my 6'3 hunk of a body on my printer. That would have been a disaster I can't even imagine. My heart dropped when I was barely able to hold myself.

>>2815589
you're not supposed to put your dick the print until it finishes printing.

I got a Creality K1 a couple of months ago and I noticed that it will extrude filament randomly during longer periods of no use. Is this normal behavior? I’ve never had a printer that I’ve kept on 24/7. Other than that, it seems fine.

>>2815455
I ran a delta for 4 years. get it working before you start fucking with it.

also I use double sided poster tape to secure the glass then either blue painter tape on the glass to make the surface or gluestick on the glass to make the surface. the glass makes the "bed" take extra to heat so I would usually manually warm up the bed.

>>2814926
>1 day 23 hour print.
why tf aren't you printing a pair at once?

>>2815627
the filament in the head and ptfe next to it are the most suceptable to fuckarage based on sitting. I made a habit of taking the filament out when done so that if I left it a few weeks it I wouldn't have a clog/issue. it was never an issue if I ran the printer every few days, just long periods. so maybe it's a baked in counter to keep filament "fresh". not sure if creepy or genius.

>>2815627
Moisture man, Moisture

>>2815455
>>2815628
I got it to dry print the one of the files that was on its SD card. Seems to work as it should. Already did some upgrades to it with a $20 parts lot from an eBay seller that used to have a delta.>>2815461
>>2815477

>>2815629
Because I want to see how fucked up the first one is before I commit to wasting half a reel of filament

I did it!

>>2815767
Forgot photo

>>2815509
I have a problem with 'bedslinger' because its almost good enough, but too kitsch or somehting... using it feels cheap..or zoomerish.. or something that should get off my damn lawn. Originally (in 2017) I thought i3 was a descriptor of the motion system. Now that i see the history as been written such that i3 is and was only ever a reference to prusa; so I am similarly displeased with it as a generic term for that type of system. But apparently the best I can do is 'Mendel'.... which is also shit, but at least it attributes the origins to reprap more SEO-accurately.
So now I dont like any of them, least of all bedslinger, partly *becasue* its so descriptive - stop enjoying proper nouns that lack design attribution! - It rustles my jimmies that reprap didnt assign a better, more technically accurate name in the first place.

>>2815765
right? any time i stack multiple things onto a print i regret it

>>2815768
congratulations
also: thats gay. Print functional parts or sex toys like a real person.

>>2815649
i'm bummed this wasnt me. You seem to have resurrected a nice kossel for a good price.
the before and after images are enviable.

>>2815627
>>2815630
could also be some kind of prime-nozzle-after-pause that keeps looping on a timeout..which would be weird, but probably not far outside the realm of possibility for companies that slap firmware toghether and then forget about it forever.

>>2815768
now show the wasted filament

>>2815769
he could print an umbreon dildo

delta master race
corexy copers cannot compete

Is there a good Tiffany blue PLA? I'm doing toolbox organization and figured since Starrett boxes are basically Tiffany boxes for machinists I should use that color for my center punch holder.

>>2815823

>>2815823
>>2815824
that's a tough one, try looking here
https://filamentcolors.xyz/library/?f=&cf=&mfr=&ft=
and filtering by either green or blue.
I gave it a quick try and the closest I found was this
https://proto-pasta.com/products/still-colorful-recycled-pla-018

>>2815777
Trips demand it

>>2815823
Sunlu Meta Macaron
iSANMATE Tiffany Blue
Polymaker Teal
Hatchbox Robin's Egg
Paramount-3D Mid Century Teal

I'm coming around to charcoal grills. Something about this fan shroud really helps it start vs without the fan.

>>2815909
Now find a way to build it into the vent on the drawer with a little thermal break so you can force air in while it's shut and push that grill up past 1500F. Ever drizzled molten aluminum over a steak? Just sayin'

Has anyone here tried Hueforge? I wanna get some neat manga frames printed but I'm not sure how good the program actually is

>>2815915
Hueforge is exactly as good as your printer and selection of filament. With a good printer, good tune, getting high-quality prints reliably and consistently, and a good selection of filaments, you can get stunning results from it. I'm consistently impressed by the shit people make with hueforge.

>>2815776
Lol
Lmao even

>>2815919
Damn that's fucking sick, how doable is it without an AMS?

>>2815926
It's just more work. You can, but depending on the complexity of the image and the color choices the manual switching will add up like a motherfucker.
>Oh I can do 5 swaps, no big deal.
>Now I'll just check this one box aaaaand I have to do 136 swaps.
>Actually I will use the - 1,798 swaps over 18hrs - shit what did I do?

>>2815824
This is the closest that I can think of.

>>2815958
>>2815905
That's 2 for Paramount Mid Century Teal

>>2815915
No. And we're unlikely to try it out unless the code leaks or someone else implements a free alternative.

Just got a 0.6mm nozzle for my BMS
any tips? layer heights, speeds etc

>>2816020
0.3mm is your new .2mm. Depending on the plastic, extruder, and temperatures you can even push 0.4mm.
If you're using screws, your new holes for direct m3 threads are now 2.95mm.
Rethink the amount of walls that you need, now just three perimeters is near a 2mm wall thickness.
Have fun.

>>2815921
That's like 10x as much that was actually used in the print. I didn't think it would use that much.

>>2816020
I like 0.6, and 0.8, i'll be switching in a 1.0s next time i need to wrangle the nozzle.
The fine detail you get from acute angular changes/features in a model is softened, and the potentially taller layers can adversely effect height accuracy of dimensions, but otherwise they are faster, and it's really nice. If you arent printing something that has to be accurate to half a mm or less in key areas then you will probably love the bigger nozzles.
The only time I needed to use a 0.2 was to get sharp featureson a large gear.
0.4 always felt a bit slow, and even at the same layer heights a 0.6 is noticeably quicker to finish... it feels a lot more reasonable actually.
0.8 is similar and actually seems more like 3d prinitng isnt just about waiting.
I typically print dimensionally accurate components for printers and stuff like housings for pi cameras etc. So nothing *too* accurate, but with orcas 'accurate wall' and ability to adjust hole sizes I've not really noticed any serious drawbacks to the wider nozzles.
You may need to design wall thicknesses in your models to be multiples of the nozzle... if you were ever the kind of printer who felt you needed to do this before. But if you never have; you probably dont need to start now.

>>2816051
eg: i printed these at 0.6 or 0.8

Does 3DO actually manufacture in EU/Denmark or is it just another chinesium rapacking company?

Taking the advice of above anon (thank you), printing the left shoe from the heel. Put a support blocker in place in the main foot compartment, but one support needs to be there.

The misses is still busy about an hour later cutting the support off of >>2814926 this lol

Print time also reduced by 7 hours too.

>>2816071
Actually screw that, going to put the current print on the kid first to see if it's too hard or what. No point in completely wasting another print beforehand.

>>2816075
make sure to also put a regular shoe on the other foot, just to try to balance out the weirdness of the printed one a bit.

What the hell is up with PrusaSlicers temperature display? The GCODE is correct, but the legend isn't.

>>2816211
looks right
its interpolating between the legend colors to get the preview color, but at a glance it seems right

So, I've found this film for heated floors. Dirt cheap and works off mains voltage, but only comes in 50 cm widths. The tech seems perfect for bed heaters, but I've never seen stuff like it used. Why so?

>>2816071
why are you printing fuckin' shoes nigga
surely a pair of walmart shoes would be cheaper and better than a reel of tpu
maybe if you got a shoe with worn out sole you can print a replacement but full shoe is just about the most unprintable object out there

>>2816233
Probably can't reach the max temp needed. It's great for taking a regular heating-a-room amount of power and spreading it out over a whole room, it's not usually pushing hundreds of watts in a 300x300mm section.

>>2816241
Anything can reach max temp if you feed it enough amps.

>>2816247
Only once.

>>2816211
looks correct to me. the scale in slicer is a bit weird. do those numbers change or is that a fixed scale?
god I remembver importing a model like that in cura and then messing with weird gcode makros to achieve the same result lol

>>2816051
>>2816044
>>2816055
I manily print cosplay pieces to sell, im afraid of the loss of detail but reducing down the print time is seriously tempting.
would a single wall be enough or should I still do 2

>>2816299
I would still do two. Also depending on the pieces you can reduce the print time with more walls, but like I said depends on the model I have reduced prints from switching infill from gyroid to adaptive cubic.

How many printers do you have now? Since you printcosplay parts I imagine you have multiple printers for parallel printing stuff.

>>2816364
just have the one E5+.

>>2816234
>why are you printing fuckin' shoes nigga
>surely a pair of walmart shoes would be cheaper and better than a reel of tpu
Because I can. Where the fuck do you think you are? Most of the shit printed here of course is cheaper from chink walmart crap.

Has anyone else tried filament from Prima? Feels like absolute dogshit, I've been trying to get it to work but it's like someone made filament by following verbals instructions on how to make filament.
The company seems to be Swedish and they claim to make it themselves but it doesn't feel to dissimilar from chinesium pla.

>>2816385
Just a suggestion, you may want toconsider buying another printer if you are able to. I have 5 printers functional, and one I keep putting off on rebuilding.

Anyways you don't need 6 printers like I have but a couple to help print multiple parts at the same time would help, especially if you're selling these you might as well.

>>2816426
I've gone through several spools of PrimaSelect PLA just fine

>>2816299
single wall is very weak unless you're in vase mode. I normally use 3 or 4 walls because I want robust prints.

>>2816441
how much backstock do you keep? or like do you print one set and list it and print another?

>>2816551
oh no this is because I am impatient, and comes in handy if im printing decent quantity of the same thing, especially 21 HSW panels that I printed in 18 hours, started t hem at 8 am, finished all 21 by 11:30 ish pm

gridfinity is ap ossible organize solution, and I have 10 drawers to fill up.

>Decide to replace the piece of shit thermister that came with the BMS
>get a E3D Semitec 104NT thermistor
>figure out how to even do firmware editing
>spend hours fixing errors here and there
>finally it compiles
>boot up printer
>preheat nozzle
>wont heat up
>try the blowdryer to see if its just the heat sensor
>nope, it does sense temp changes
>the thing just wont heat up
im about to fucking dropkick this shit out of my house

>months ago I was considering getting a 3D printer, with a Bambu P1S being my choice at the time
>then shit happened and had other expenses, so the idea got shelved
>today my gf gifted me a Sovol SV07 with a nozzle kit for my bday
>I'm disappointed for the model she got me, also because I would have preferred the hassle free experience Bambu seems to give, but you don't look a gift horse in the mouth
Now that I was given lemons, I need to make lemonade: I'm a mech engineer, 3D modeling is my bread and butter, but I need to get up to speed for all things that go from that to holding a good print in hand. Is there any resource I can rely on, maybe a good video series from some reputable youtuber?

>>2816607
https://www.youtube.com/@TeachingTech/videos
He's an actual teacher, and it shows.

>>2816609
unfortunately he's also australian.

>>2816299
I always use 2, sometimes more just to make a thin part solid.
A single wall would be punctured or scarred by any section where its thinned or thickened near other features. Or where the extrusion could continue in a straight line, but instead suddenly changes direction to loop around a hole very close to the wall, and then comes back out onto the straight part....this leaves a gap in the print between the inner hole and the outer wall most of the time

>>2815769
Well there’s also aren’t good terms for other Cartesian printer designs other than core__, and even that fails to describe what moves in the third direction, e.g. bed-z vs tool-z. Also both the prusa mini and the prusa i3 are bedslingers, but differ substantially by construction. And printers with a 4th or 5th axis are even more nonstandard.

We need a new methodology for naming 3D printer geometries, like the IUPAC does for molecules. It’s a good idea I promise.

TPU bow tie for the kitty

>>2816681
Love it.

>>2816665
>We need a new methodology for naming 3D printer geometries

I concur.

>>2816607
Bambu isn't hassle-free, breh. If something doesn't work, it's significantly harder to fuck with.

>>2816724
you mean like customer service takes longer or what

>>2816726
To change actual parts. Their machines were designed for manufacturing not maintenance.

>>2816726
I had to fuck with Z-offset on my X1 to get it to work with aftermarket plates, but there isn't an onboard option to adjust it. The only place to change it is in the gcode, and you basically have to iterate over and over again, adjusting by 0.01mm each time until it works. AMS fails a lot for no discernable reason and doesn't play nice with some brands' filament rolls. You have to make exemptions for like a million ports if you want to link it to your computer on a controlled or corporate network.
They have a very "Apple" approach to everything, use our stuff only, and it just works. What if it doesn't just work? Too bad, I guess.

>>2816724
>>2816729
Repairability is great and all, but I really would have preferred a plug and play system, something that doesn't involve fiddling with. As I understand Sovol stuff needs a lot of tinkering before getting good prints, while Bambu just prints good out of the box without too much hassle.

>>2816769
Stop being whiney, say thankyou to the gf, and use the fucking printer.
After you do that for a few weeks you will realise that coming here flapping your preconceptions and regurgitated OInIoNs at us is very tiresome.
You dont know shit, so stop insisting on your PrEfErEnCeS to us.
Use what you have until you figure out what you want, get that and start the process again.
Its normal to have more then one printer.

Dont be that faggot who comes here to talk circles around what they should buy, and nothing else.

>>2816780
I needed that. Thanks anon.

>>2813230
>klipper
You should check your printer.cfg or start print macro. It's possible you've defined a z-offset there that loads after probing.

what are some common causes for the hotend not heating up after flashing a printer?
It worked fine until I changed out the thermistor, It was a different type than stock but I adjusted it in the marlin firmware. Turned on printer, it reads temperature fine but when I want to heat up the nozzle it doesnt do shit and gives me the heatcreep warning and turns off after 10 seconds

>>2816607
>but you don't look a gift horse in the mouth
gute Einstellung
but consider if retuning it is at all possible (I'll leave it to you how you figure that out with your gf). But the truth is if you don't like it on day one you won't like it at all 2 months from now
this is a good resource for everything from e-steps to belt tension https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
but it's not that hard. think desktop cnc that squirts plastic (you can still crash it)

Any ideas why I end up with the results on the left if I use a lower layer height than 0.2 in Orca? Both of the ones on the right are using adaptive layer height, so it's still going lower but for some reason they don't get the jaggies, and the layer height is the only settings difference. Different filaments have the same issues so it's either the machine or slicer. Kinda shit pics but you see the difference.
0.4 nozzle on an A1 Mini

Can someone explain to retard like me how we went from big aluminium heatsinks to "high performance" copper designs, sparking several lawsuits thrown across the pond back to "Yeah, that lil piece of alu will work just fine."?

>>2816915
>lower layer height than 0.2
What's your line width?

>>2815455
I bought a kossal in 2018 for $200 off Amazon. Had to assemble it myself and flash Marlin (had no experience doing either). It printed wonky for months, but it turned out I plugged the motors into the wrong spots on the board. After that it printed fine. It's the only printer I've ever owned and still works great. I haven't used it in 8months, turned it in the other day, started a print and it came out great.

I occasionally get errors while the hot end is heating up, but never while printing. Might be harder to find parts for since it's older, but not bad for the price.

I mostly print cosplay props and display pieces. I've modeled and printed small pieces to fix appliances and furniture, but usually need to sand the pieces after to get them to fit. So if you plan on doing more precise engineering type printing, it might not be the best. I also finish all of my prints with tons of filler and Bondo. So "good" quality to me may be different than "good" quality for someone who is going to keep the prints raw.

Overall it's a great printer for the price, once it's up and running it just works.

>>2816944
0.42

Does anybody have recommendations for free software to do photogrammetry? ( Creating 3d models from a large ish set of images)

I want it to do the computation on my own hardware (not uploading it to someone else's server) and preferably have it run on a computer as opposed to a phone (just for the purpose of having more computing power) I have a phone app called scann3d that I haven't tried yet.

Also being able to take advantage of a wide range of compute engines would be nice, especially in combination (is CPU, CUDA, OCL, possibly supporting multiple cards at once, etc) ultimately I'm fine with whatever it offers as long as it works reasonably well.

>>2816972
Check out OpenScan: https://openscan-org.github.io/OpenScan-Doc/photogrammetry/software/
The OpenScan scanners are just fancy photogrammetry rigs. Their documentation does a great job of illustrating the photogrammetry process, how to get good scans, and how to do it all with free and/or opensource software. It's very well worth reading through the whole Photogrammetry section there.

Assembled my Sovol SV07, easy but painful, good thing it's something you do only once. No cable management hurts my autism, but I can deal with it later, after all I have a 3D printer now. Calibration was kinda convoluted, but it worked I guess. Should have I heated the bed before doing it? The manual didn't specify. Speaking of, the manual sucks: tells you to tension the belts, but doesn't give you any method for proper belt tensioning. I'll replace the axial fan on the back with a cross flow one because it's fucking loud and the whole nozzle thing is badly designed.
Pic related is my first benchy ever, I used the 25' benchy file included. The table got shaken bad, I'll place it on the floor next time I print something, and I'm sure the belt slipped once. There's a bad defect on the A pillar, I watched it as it printed and it looked like it was either extruding too much or it didn't cool fast enough; it's hot and humid this time of year where I live, so maybe it's the latter.
I love the interface and the no account required to print over wifi.

>>2816953
Those jaggies look like flat, wide lines. Try a lower line width.

>>2817050
>Should have I heated the bed before doing it?
Yes.
>doesn't give you any method for proper belt tensioning.
Just tighten it till it feels right. If it doesn't wobble at all, it's too tight.
>I'll replace the axial fan on the back with a cross flow one because it's fucking loud and the whole nozzle thing is badly designed.
I assume you mean a radial fan? Check YouTube. Plenty of people turned their heatsink fan down without major issues.
>Pic related is my first benchy ever, I used the 25' benchy file included.
Do a fresh one with your prefered slicing settings. Example files are often that not either garbage or misleading.
>I love the interface and the no account required to print over wifi.
Now imagine if we'd just open source software on all printers.

>>2816880
Its not reading an increase in temperature at the rate marlin expects.
So either you installed it poorly and its not reading right, or you set its definition in marlin incorrectly and its expecting values to be different, or change at a different rate than its actually reading or being interpreted by marlin.
>>2816915
looks like you have some kind of radial/archimedian spiral/concentric line/fill mode happening.
Could also be 'detect overhang walls', which I always need to turn off so it doesnt fuck all of my bridging.
Could also be 'extra perimeters on overhangs' trying to support that steep curved wall.
>>2816932
Cheaper to make, higher profit. And as anon suggested to me when I asked the same question: smaller less excessive everything means you can more aggressively PID control the temperature.
I didnt like the idea to start with, but now that I have used one for a few weeks they are what I intend to use henceforth.
>>2816952
>if you plan on doing more precise engineering type printing, it might not be the best
You just need to do some printer calibration, probably understand what will and what wont print cleanly and adapt, and understand that holes need minor adjustment. Orcas option for that makes it trivial, or use boolens adjusted to the right size when you model your holes.
>>2816972
100% Meshroom

>>2812848
what happened to their kidneys

>>2812972
its slow, glitchy, and overpriced compared to bambu

>>2817100
>Its not reading an increase in temperature at the rate marlin expects.
its reading it fine, I tried a blowdryer and it shows the temperature change. The hotend doesnt heat up at all
>installed it poorly and its not reading right
its a direct plug in into the socket, the one I used before I had to solder wires together and it worked
>you set its definition in marlin incorrectly and its expecting values to be different
I set the thermistor value to 5 (Semitec 104NT thermistor). as per marlin instructions

I'll try to replace the heating cartridge to see if its just broken.

>>2817100
>Meshroom
the icon for that better be a wire mesh fungus

>>2817204
>Meshroom
NOpe, though i do vaguely recall seeing some pun/reference along those lines somewhere
https://yandex.com/images/search?from=tabbar&text=Meshroom

>>2817199
>The hotend doesnt heat up at all
so then you may have a heater cartridge issue

>>2817100
Not sure if i don't like it or not. I'm just surprised by the amount of people actively modding them into their printers. Although the E3D version seems to be pretty impressive on it's own.

>>2817209
Yeah thats my next move
I didnt even touch the heating element though, i just replaced the flimsy BMS thermistor with a cartridge one.
New heat tape and assembled it. It ran once, got up to 150ish degrees, I got a thermal runaway warning and then it stopped working.
Everytime I tried heating up again the temp on the sensor just kept dropping and the hotend didnt heat up again.

I checked the wires and the resistance is almost exactly the same as on a new heater cartridge so guessing the wires are fine

>want to 3d model something around a milwaukee battery
>go on mcmaster carr
>find battery
>no cad models
it was a slim hope, but i am still disappointed

>>2817224
Just make the 3D model of the battery yourself dumbo

>>2817224
checked grabcad?

>>2817224
>milwaukee battery
https://grabcad.com/library?page=1&time=all_time&sort=recent&query=milwaukee%20battery

>>2817243
>Click link
>Check out website
>Cool
>Go to homepage to bookmark it
>YOU NEED TO LOGIN
>Worked fine from the link directly to the search results
>Bookmark those

Ha.

>>2817296
you can also just disable javascript.

Another retarded question: Why haven't we seen more Ender5 kinematics with a motor just dumped onto X axis?
Besides the dumb rollers, the shorter belts should contribute to longer lifespan and considering everyone moves a whole alu extrusion over Y anyways, i don't see much problem with added weight either. At least not to a degree that made this seemingly never picked up ever again.