/diy/ - Do It Yourself

I'm doing eet.

>>2807951
I was really underestimating what can a 0.2 nozzle do, damn.
Too bad at 20% scale it already became near-impossible to assemble. I was going to go half of that. Maybe if i merge it as one model it will work?

I wish I had the impetus to make my core xy prtinter into an idex machine for support interfaces.
Though to be perfectly honest I've never had any success with support interfaces even on idex commercial machines. There's always a whisp of pva/petg that ruins the rest of the print.

I bought some basic bitch elegoo marble PLA and this shit will not stick to my PEI bed at all. I've tried every temperature from 0-80C with and without dried salt on the bed. This setup works amazing with my old brand of filament but as far as I can tell 3d Solutech is kill.

Anyway, am I missing something or should I just jump brands until I find one that works?

>>2807969
>without dried salt on the bed.
wat

>>2807972
>Take a little bit of hot water, like not even 1/4 cup.
>Add salt until it stops dissolving in the water, you'll see a little of it collecting on the bottom of the container. You now have very salty water.
>Use a paper towel to apply salt water to bed, real thin like
>As the bed heats up the water evaporates leaving a thin layer of salt.
>The combination of salt + heat + plastic makes it a powerful adhesive until the bed cools down.
>As always this is /3dpg/ and I guarantee nothing.

After thinking about it I'm just going to eat the $15 loss and try more brands. I don't go through a lot of filament and fuck Elegoo for making me fight with their lousy PLA for a week.

How cringe is using wood screws instead of metric in 3D prints?

>>2808007
>it works?
That's your measuring tool.

>>2807959
Well i'll be fucking damned.
The camera fucks it up but it actually looks very good IRL. Shame one of the horns snapped off though.

>>2808038
God dammit

>>2807959
Post the biggest one, looks good.

>Another delta aimed at small businesses
>As seen by Trilab™ or Wasp™
>Doron Velta chugging along
Can someone explain to a retard like me what the appeal of delta printers for "small businesses" exactly is? I thought we abandoned them years ago due to their space inefficiency.

>>2808041
It's one of my older prints and not the best one out of the bunch, i'd say.
But it's definitely one of my favorite ones.

>>2808010
self taps
harder to pull out, metric just strips the plastic off
hole size doesnt have to be too accurate

downside is weak prints can rip apart due to the sharp threads

>>2808056
>Self taps
So does normal metric if you undersize the hole a bit. Plastic is soft.
>Harder to pull off
Fair point
>Hole size
You already said that parts can crack, and to mitigate that you actually need to model proper holes for the screw to not overload the part. With metrics it might be a bit harder to screw into a hole that's too small, but you need to go out of you way to crack the part with it.
If i were you i'd use one of those self tapping inserts instead just for convenience of using metric screws, which i have a shitton, but since wood ones work - you do you

>>2808060
>>2808038
What the fuck is it today with my photos being sideways...

>>2808061
the exif data embedded in the image that records orientation is showing it to you according to the metadata, but that gets stripped to post here, so its showing us the image unmodified.

>>2808051
lol
You better have some kind of emergency blast shutters that come slamming down when you push the big red button to conceal all of that figurine faggotry.
That shit is the male equivalent of the huge red flags presented by women with bedrooms full of childish plush toys and possessed looking dollies. - The more of it you have, the faster potential mates should flee.

>>2808048
speed, height

>>2807974
Seems like so much faf considering cheap gluestick works perfectly fine.

>trying out my first print on my new Bambu P1S combo
>put a single spool into the AMS
>halfway through the print, the filament unspools and says "AMS filament ran out"
>switch the spool to another AMS slot
>prints for 10 seconds and then does the same thing
>switch back to the first slot
>spool rollers bind up and bash the spool into the AMS cover multiple times
>suddenly starts printing again
>start wondering what the FUCK did I get myself into
Jesus christ, at least on my old shitty prusa i3 mk2 clone I was able to understand why it was doing what it was doing.

>>2808072
I am printing Midnas that get smaller in 20% increments for the whole day for no reason other than to print more Midnas and and see how small i can get them, putting them on the same shelf full of my 40k figures and other nerd shit with no care whatsoever.
If you weren't a retarded spergatasoid which can't read people and believes in "Red flags" (because you parrot it from someone else and probably also lack social skills to make up for having a hobby, i bet), you would have known by now that concealing my power level from women is the least of my concerns when i have bigger and more serious issues, like "Can i make the print even smaller and not fuck it up?".
Now excuse me while i go and make myself a wearable DBZ scouter to add to my "red flag" shelf. I'll even make the lens red, just for you.

>>2808116
Holy based, your power level is actually over 9000, king

Does anyone have recommendations or tips for finding interesting stuff regarding 3d printing on youtube, like projects and things where the thing being 3d printed is the main focus of the project? The only thing I get is the useless categories button on top of youtube that just shows me every video that is tangentially related to 3d printing and it's ass

>>2808119
unironically go to r/3dprinting and r/functionalprint

>>2808119
For potential inspo I like to browse the random section on Printables, occasionally something interesting pops up but a lot of the time it's incredibly boring lol

>>2808123
Getting into 3D printing and making my printers work with consistent quality makes me realize every time what people in those "Pornhub page #42839480" memes actually feel whenever i go to printables or thingi.

Electroplating anon here. I've been struggling for days to get this shit to work. Getting the resistor amount right was difficult because I guess the liquid it sits in has some resistance as well so getting the amps to what it needed to be was just a guessing game. The only progress I saw was copper would form at the end of the wire, just the very tip. Well bros, I accidentally bought insulated wire. It's for jewelry. Fortunately I have a lot of insulted wire I can strip and use so I'll just need to swap to that

>>2808128
memes? or do you mean comments?

>>2808137

>>2808119
A lot of the time, you'll find yourself needing something and then searching for it online/making it yourself. Printing stuff hoping to find a use for it is a quick way to end up with loads of useless trinkets.
I 3d printed this thing a few minutes ago. The model is up on thingiverse, so it's even less of a hassle than properly unpacking my bags to find the cable though I think I left this watch's charger somewhere in either the office or a hotel room, and fuck if I'm going to pay $10+shipping for a glorified clip from suunto.

Has anyone tested the bamboo labs AMS as a standalone?
I kind of want a fully functioning filament loader that can handle multimaterial rather than just multicolor. I'd like to keep at least two spools of ABS, one of PLA, and maybe CFnylon/CFPET/straight polycarb or even a spool of cleanout filament if necessary to handle the ABS->PLA transition.
Does the unit stay relatively dry inside with sufficient desiccant?

>>2808142
>Standalone
Lmao no. AMS even has its own firmware you need to install through X1.
Your best bet would be to wait for Creality's CFS around july, since they promised to opensource it and the K series run on klipper.

>>2808143
>AMS even has its own firmware you need to install through X1.
Bummer
>Creality
I thought about it, and I fully expect them to fuck it up in some incredibly disappointing way.
Just a brainfart I had while drinking, though upon further thought I really might just be better off with a second printer/fixing up my old ones and keeping pla loaded on them.

>>2808136
>guessing game
get a multimeter

>>2808139
yeah that makes sense now. I have done that as well, when you have multiple printers and you can print in parallel and have more stuff finished in less time.

I remember when I wanted to make HSW on my bench, needed 21 panels, used 3 of my printers and printed majority of them in one day, and finished them the next morning. It's nice when you have the ability to do that.

>>2808148
I have one I don't know how to use. I'm slowly figuring all this out

>>2808182
Set it to resistance, the omega symbol, and probe a few things... with no power attached to them...
like the electrolyte solution 1cm between probe tips, then 10cm.. you should see a relationship between distance and increasing resistance.
Wire will be pretty much the same value until you start pobing multiple meters apart, but various metals, and other things you may not consider conductive will also be conductive, and show very small resistances. Your forearm for example.

>>2808186
>and show very small resistances
very small conductivity (large resistances)

>>2808186
Thanks anon. I went super cheap on this rig and it's kinda screwing me. I have people waiting for some electroplated parts for weeks now and it seems like every set back I run into requires me to buy new equipment

>>2808075
>quality goes to shit
Men.

I have been wanting to try this sander designed by Perinksi here
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3037735

when I found out it uses a rc550 motor, I am not sure my exact motor, it was a salvaged one from a skil power drill, and the skil motor seems to be a little bit of Johnson rs540/545/550 and any thing I find online revolving around a DC motor is the 775 usually.. I am happy wit hthe results so far, I need to dry my tpu and reprint the belt though, but otherwise so far so good. Here is sample video of it spinning.

https://i.imgur.com/bFPWcvf.mp4

>>2808201
>I have people waiting for some electroplated parts
either your selling the parts, and didn't have a working setup yet,
or you told friends and family about you PLANS for a DIY setup.
you fucked up either way, keep your hobbies secret until you can reliably produce something.

Does anyone know where I can find a TC57 Zebra trigger handle?
Found some on Cults and results from yeggi but they all cost $28-35
Buying them outright costs $40-80

>>2808214
Mix of both. I don't sell these parts but I told a guy I'd make him some and I guess it's being used as part of a larger thing he's selling. So it's put him in a bad spot I imagine, but he's also getting it for free so I don't care. It's /k/ related

>>2808239
Sit down and design your own. It can't be worse than this crap.

>>2808269
>selling electroplated parts before you have any idea how to do it.
Anon... at the very least electroplate something for yourself and keep it for 1-2 months and you'll see why people are telling you it's such a stupid idea. For the things that we can make, unless it's vapor smoothed abs/pla/polysmooth it's going to be incredibly fiddly and end up like complete ass.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOXaC-Jh70g

>>2808269
Ah I have been in this situation myself, learned from it, and I don't say anything to anyone.

Coworker did mention that another coworker heard about my 3d printing stuff and was interested to talk to me. I work in a separate building so I don't see the guy often its also firearms related I believe.

>>2808303
Electro plating on firearms stuff?

I've been watching the reviews for the flsun s1.
What's the point of printers like this? At the price point I'd expect something more than a tool head with an accelerometer and an enclosed unheated chamber.
Does anyone make a sub $1,500 printer that can manage large abs/nylon parts with straight walls and an actively heated chamber.
>>2808328
probably a cosmetic thing. In which case, the seeping solutions are going to make it look like shit in a few days anyways.

I'm looking to build a motorcycle phone mount but having trouble thinking of an easy way to lock the phone in the enclosure.
The idea is it has a lid with a hinge that you open up to drop the phone in and it locks in place when you close it, any ideas?
I've got magnets but that's not enough and my other idea is a bolt with a spring that you pull back and it unlatches but thought i'd see if there's a better, more elegant way. Maybe one that doesn't require a spring.
Here's my very technical draft.

>>2808355
the fuck is a liol

>>2808355
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3103262

>>2808352
>Does anyone make a sub $1,500 printer that can manage large abs/nylon parts with straight walls and an actively heated chamber.
About every large printer you put a box on.
>What's the point of printers like this? At the price point I'd expect something more than a tool head with an accelerometer and an enclosed unheated chamber.
What do you expect exactly? Compared to what?

>>2808362
I expect being able large parts out of warp prone materials like nylon.
You overestimate the whole enclosure thing, not only does it create a gradient, they rarely exceed 40C.
And the Z height just almost never seems useful as it's the axis I typically avoid when designing parts.

>>2808364
It was a subtle hint that your machine doesn't exist. Build a Voron or do the reasonable thing of just ordering MJF PA11/12 parts when you actually need them.

Why does 3d printing feel like work even though is just printing

>>2808393
Because you're probably unfamiliar with all that's involved with casting/injection molding/whiting/machining a part.

>>2808048
>>2808352
>the only worthwhile review hasn't even been posted yet.
Why bother?

I gave the elegoo marble pla one last chance using a $1.50 glue stick according to instructions from the internet.

Holy shit. It works but what a mess. I did not read the fine print about "wait for it to cool down before removing" bit and now I'm cleaning the aftermath. But it stuck to the bed. I now also have two other brands to try. I'm not terribly excited about the idea of using glue but it's better than a roll of PLA I can't do anything with.

>>2808362
Hello. The newer q1 from widi might be worth a look, unless you often find yourself running out of space on a standard size printer.
>>2808473
I just watched lost in tech's review.
He basically calls out FLsun on their bullshit(standard V6 nozzle pushing out 110mm^3/s?) , though he does it while printing PLA.
Do people really buy $1k+ machines to print PLA?

>>2808478
meant for
>>2808352

>>2808478
>Do people really buy $1k+ machines to print PLA?
yes people buy prusas.

>>2808328
No just got itno a hobby full of confidence then a friend asks for something you think no big deal find out you don't know shit, start to panic and try to quickly fix it and run into more problems.

>>2808478
>Do people really buy $1k+ machines to print PLA?
Yeah? Especially if it's multicolor.
But PLA also works as a good entry benchmark of "How shit it is?" because it's pretty much the easiest to print plastic. So if the machine struggles with that - it's a very bad sign.

>>2808364
Just get an enclosed $1000 coreXY with a open firmware and install a heater or two. K1, SV08, etc.
Though personally I’d be on the lookout for a design that could easily be modified to print PEEK, with its high internal temperatures that fry normal steppers.

>>2808405
>being pro skub

>>2808478
This thing, with a properly tuned extrusion multiplier, has a way of making me forget that I'm printing ABS with a 0.6mm nozzle.
>inb4 shill
I'm just in love with it. Feel free to buy anything else.

How to get on T*legr*am? I want to find anime figure files to resin print, but I ain't paying.

>>2808629
You must be over the age of 18 to post here.

>>2808531
Please do name the "etc.".

>>2808478
>>2808546
I don't doubt the quality, given that we've seen plenty of good results already, but i can't get myself over buying that exterior looking like an oversized children's toys box. One can only hope for a Flsun + Qidi love child..

>>2808634
>but i can't get myself over buying that exterior looking like an oversized children's toys box.
Man....
I've stuck mine under the desk in the basement. I've had to print spacers to lift up the desk 25mm or so. Mostly so that it doesn't shake the shit out of the table but also don't have to look at it.

>>2808072
not him but I would like to know more about why that is. Why are they considered a red flag and why are certain women and men attracted by the plush toys and figurines?

>>2808660
Men aren't allowed to have non-technical hobbies. It gives women and faggot the ick.

>>2808670
>>2808660
Fuck off. No one cares about your obvious bait.

>>2808682
>noooo stop enjoying things.

>>2808670
but anon printed the figures himself so it's a technical hobby?

>bambulab sale today
>200€ a1 mini
I'm a strong foss-chad and I don't need it
I'm a strong foss-chad and I don't need it
I'm a strong foss-chad and I don't need it

>>2808695
does the mini work with multiplexed AMS units?
Because 4-8 color printing for under $600USD is rather enticing

>>2808696
iirc it does have two slots for expansions but only support for one ams

weirdly tempting.

>>2808051
I have been wanting to get into model painting, specifically the blaster from arcane that's on thingiverse.
But I'm retarded when it comes to painting shit.
Got any pointers/ online guides as to how to start with painting pla/abs?

>>2808695
>about as much as an ender 3 back in the day.
jesus hold my wallet.

>>2808780
For that price/goal, i'd rather a J1S.

>>2808795
>>2808695
>current year and people still get excited over bed slingers
I don't get it.

Anyone have any luck with a 3d printing business? I had a small business for a little bit where I sold a quest 3 adapter. It paid off one of my machines, but sales have completely stopped.

Trying to get some extra income and it seems like the money is in product development rather than services. I have the equipment to print, laser cut, weld, and maybe eventually plasma cut. Have very little experience in the service industry though. Anyone have any experience in either of these areas? The services don't seem like they scale but probably are easier to sell. The product development is a toss up, but when you find that product its just a matter of refining your process.

>>2808917
Wouldn't bother with a service any more. Dominant services like Craftcloud will eat your lunch before breakfast. You either sell your modelling skills, consulting, or, as you said, a complete product. Depending on how connected or rural you are i'd consider driving around and ask if some oldtimers are missing a tool or bracket and get some mouth propaganda that way.

>>2808942
I live in a extremely densely populated area so I wonder if I could just pick up some service work here and there. When I had a 3d printed product for sale I had someone reach out to me to have a part printed. I agree though, I should probably have the services as basically an afterthought minus some small weld repair jobs. Main focus should be on a product, but thats easier said than done. I just sunk some money into a product that I designed to sell and haven't sold a single one yet. Everyone has praised how good of a design it is too.

>>2808955
nta, but it would have to be incredibly specific things that you sell on ebay/etsy whatever to the general population as it pertains to a common nuisance/issue with the specified product.
My general rule of thumb, is if I have a current and semi popular product and I fix a nuisance/make an improvement for my personal use, printing the part in a fancy material and putting it up on ebay can net a sale or two.
For example, I used to sell mounting brackets out of asa/polycarb/pctg that would attach to the passenger grab bars of my motorcycles to where the end user could easily attach a cheap top case from harbor freight. It enabled the use of existing geometry on the motorcycle(passenger grab bars) to mount an apache top case. Total cost of around $50 for a really good top case that sits in the passenger seat and is properly water proof.
$15 each set, would cost me a total of like $5+20 minutes of actual time, and I discontinued it after I went nearly a month without any sales. Sold almost 300 of them over three different motorcycle models.
Did it overall pay for the tools I ended up using? not really. Even at that quantity I think just designing the mounts took a ridiculous amount of time that didn't quite pay off.
I still think I might go about doing it again when I get the 3d scanning technique down and can just scan multiple bikes quickly for reference geometry.

>>2809002
pic related of the first few prototypes on my 390. Eventually I figured out that I could just clamshell the grab bars and mount to that directly.

>>2809002
pic related of the first few prototypes on my 390. Eventually I figured out that I could just clamshell the grab bars and mount to that directly.

>>2809002
Yeah thats kind of my thinking. Either a nuisance or a really big want. My quest 3 adapter had one major competitor. She came in, undercut me with a 1:1 model she found online, and took all my sales. She already had a popular product which was a plastic aldi quarter keychain which is a major nuisance. After she had stolen my business the one stars came flooding in. Not enough to effect her but enough to discontinue the product. Would have doubled the money I made. Business came back, but she capitalized on my peak, and I had a much better model.

Im testing a product idea right now, and seeing if I can improve it. I have a feeling that peoples lack of modeling/engineering opens up quite a bit of opportunity. People are focused on selling articulated snakes when theres money to be made on adapters and niche markets. Have seen a guy on youtube that sells a miter saw dust system and hes cashing in on that. The lady who undercut me has probably pulled $40k just off plastic quarters. Obviously these are edge cases, but if you can fill a gap big or small theres money to be made.

>>2808916
I mean, with bambu's bells and whistles - i can somewhat understand being hyped, especially if you add the AMS into the equation. It's pretty much the main selling point.
The only direct competitor i know right now is that unreleased anycubic one and MAYBE new Ender 3, since the K2 CFS is allegedly going to be compatible with it.

>>2807974
I got a textured PEI plate for $15 and I won't go back

>>2807956
looking forward to update

Now that the dust has settled, will my old bedslinger rather enjoy an upgrade to
>diy LGX Lite with big extrusion gears
>orbiter with small extrusion gears

Ordered a P1S today. Should I use fusion or solidworks? Learned solidworks in a class 10+ years ago but haven't touched it since

>>2809052
i like the runout sensor on the orbiter but it's outrageously expensive and i have no idea if it actually has any great benefit compared to others, so i'd say that LGX is pretty good.
I have a DIY bondtech and it manages to push flexibles no problem, so i bet the bigger grip area of LGX gears would be good.

Someone help me out before I chuck this entire Ender 3 v2 into the trash

TPU flexi fillament printing (attempting too). Massive under extrusion
> bought a new direct drive extruder. Bowden drive is out
> play around with all range of temperatures, nozzle and bed
> print speed from 5mm/s to 15mm/s
> increased the flow rate from 100% in increments up to 125%
> adjusting the tension in the direct drive
and still, still the underextrusion. I've been fucking with this for nearly 5 hours now.

>>2809024
>Have seen a guy on youtube that sells a miter saw dust system and hes cashing in on that
That one has merit. He'll buy one of every major saw out there and creates a custom solution for it. People might argue that it's just a fancy hose end, but in reality it's meant to interface with the specific saw that the buyer has and make it so that it's attachable to dust collection systems. Only one that can undercut him are manufacturers if it suddenly becomes a standard saw feature.
Meanwhile just today I saw a chick that's printing, wait for it... fucking dumbbells. 3d printed weights. She 3d prints them. And people are buying them. Don't know who the target market is for it, but she seems to be moving them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIKG6jttt2M

>>2809078
did you properly clean out your nozzle and heat break of the previous material? What hardness is the tpu? did you readjust your extruder drive tension?
Going from hard filaments to tpu is the only time I'll ever use the meme "cleaning" filament.

>>2809078
Do it and post proof.

>>2809002
On the topic of scanners, good news.
I seriously hope they don't gimp the preorder scanners, I see now they're selling them on their site for like 2X what I paid for it on preorder.

>>2809082
>did you properly clean out your nozzle and heat break of the previous material?
Yes, even changed them out.

> What hardness is the tpu?
Sunlu 1.75mm
95A I think
Just noticed the sticker on teh filament says 190-210C, but the product parameter says 205-230C. Been printing at 205-210C range. Next attempt will up it to 225C.

> did you readjust your extruder drive tension?
Yes, multiple times. It's gripping the filament. I can retract it fine.

>>2809085
It would make the OP image next thread pretty epic

>>2809088
post gcode to cockfile/catbox.

>>2809088
you didnt accidentally switch in a different size nozzle... did you?

>>2809097
No, of course not.

>>2809091
Maybe tomorrow I'll post the dragon dildo 9000 g-code, bit late for that now.

>>2809025
This may be an ignorant question but why is AMS so important to people? It introduces considerably more waste to the process due the need to purge filament from the extruder every time it switch colors, which can happen constantly, right?
And in exchange, you have the option (provided you bought all the different colors of filament) to have multicolor prints that are only of the colors of the spools supplied.

>>2809079
Yeah I have been watching this chick for a while. The babby dumbbells are a licensed product she makes for someone else.

Theres another guy that makes adapters for inline fans for grow systems. I would really like to find some type of niche to manufacture in or make a cool product. Working on a product right now, but I dont know if it will get to the point of running 8 printers non stop.

You still need skills, but you need the right product first.
Figurines are maximum gay because they are without practical function.

>>2809101
do we still not have slicers that use the unseen infill as color-change purge volume?

>>2809151
that's not a video of a 3d printed mould for casting a silicone adult toy

>>2809052
Both are tried and tested designs. I'd choose what's cheaper.

>>2809079
I assumed it may be instagram posers, but apparently it's just for kids to tag along.

>>2809151
The whole of resin printing is gay to begin with.

>>2809086
Can this thing scan flesh? Because if so there is indeed a market here if you decide to forego all sense of dignity.

>>2809078
Bought to chuck in trash my E3 as well, shorted thermostor wire and now mysteriously stopped extruding half way thought print. But no clog, replaced nozzle anyway. Do you have clipper or marlin, maybe you need to update the extruders or drivers on the firmware.

Post practical prints. Pic related is an unsung hero

>>2809222
Checked, scan my dick

>>2809079
Jesus christ.
All I can think of at the moment is all those times I thought of potentially selling a print and thinking "nah, people can't possibly be that stupid as tobuy 'x' thing"

I have an old 3D printer (DIY colido, the yellow one), and I would like to use it to create another one that is slightly more modern, which one do you recommend, considering the fact that I will take most of the motors and other things from the current printer?

>>2809055
Runout sensor on extruder would be nice if it was also an encoder sensor. Runout doesn't tell you much, while my encoder sensor has saved me countless hours by detecting jams that a simple switch sensor wouldn't.
>>2809289
How much are you willing to spend to build a completely new printer? What features will the new printer have that your current one does not? Motors are nearly the cheapest parts of a 3d printer. Depending on how nice you want your new printer to be, I think most of your cash will be in the frame, maybe linear rails if you want that, then your mainboard, then extruder/hotend, etc. This also assumes you already own all of the JST, Dupont, crimp, etc connector kits because those stack up deceptively fast as well.

>>2809269
The future economy will be based entirely off rentable instagram props.

>>2809335
>rentable instagram props.
You're going to have to explain what this is.

>Buy a hygrometer
>Put it into my room with the printers
>47%
Jesus fucking christ no wonder my TPU and PETG prints stopped being perfect for no reason

>>2809347
You overestimate the cost and value of motors. If you're not looking to tinker endlessly, just buy an off the shelf printer. Bambu lab's mini is a really good deal at the moment if all you're looking for is a printer that's ready to go at all times.

>>2809357
...anon i am talking about humidity, what the fuck do motors have to do with it?

>>2809358
He replied to the wrong post, pretty sure that was meant for >>2809324
Sorry to hear you live in a swamp, sounds like hell. My humidity might hit 25% on a rainy day.

>>2809289
You overestimate the cost and value of motors. If you're not looking to tinker endlessly, just buy an off the shelf printer. Bambu lab's mini is a really good deal at the moment if all you're looking for is a printer that's ready to go at all times.
>>2809347
Electronic hygrometers are almost all shit, have a look at your product parameters and add 5% to error. SHT3x based units have been the only ones that don't spazz out reading humidity.

>>2809338
Babby weights, and 1:1 mockups of private jet interiors. Get ready to book a timeslot to eat at the wax food restaurant. Its a race for soft power. In the global theater you will have a perfect life just to go back to your 7x7 pod and bugmaxx.

do you ever use ironing on 3d prints? I never do but I think it's an intriguing concept.
no imagine a printer like the XL that can swap to an ironing toolhead. just a metal ball type thing that heats up and can smooth your surfaces in 3D space. it would move like a lollipop endmill. smooth and glossy finish on your 3d print.
or maybe use with 100% infill and anele between every layer? ultra durable prints?

Anyone ever do snap fit hinges? I could possibly try doing a print in place hinge also. Just trying to find some options for a mechanical part.

>>2809391
I'm a bit tired so I write like a thirdie sry.
now imagine a suction table type deal. you lay down a few layers and then the holes underneath your print vaccuum it to the table securely. now you can switch to a milling head, or a drilling head and you can makes precise faces and holes in your print.
I really think multi toolhead printers will be the future for high end fdm
engineers at prusa being visionaries like usual

>>2809398
this sounds needlessly complicated compared to just machining the part.
I like the ironing idea, but classic 3D ironing also involves very tiny flow still going to fill out the space between the lines, not just wiping the surface with a hot nozzle. I have a feeling it won't work as good as you want it to with your setup

>>2807951
Refurbished K1 Max for $540. Good deal? I'm new to this

>>2809409
>K1 Max
Sounds like a lottery. Could be a great machine, but seeing as it's refurbished and sold for almost half price is concerning.

>>2809414
It's refurbished officially by creality afaik, and is marked as "eBay refurbished" which means free returns and two year Allstate warranty included
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355400862122

>>2809409
>i'm new
>buys refurbished.
Just get a regular k1, p1 or p1p if you want to do multicolor stuff, or the q1 if you want to print technical materials.

>>2809416
A warrantied turd is still just a turd. It's all up to you whether the $50 discount or so is worth tinkering with on an unplanned schedule.

>>2809417
>technical materials
Can you give an example? I'm planning to mess around with printing gun parts and from what I know PLA+ is best
>>2809418
I'm not too worried, I figure if it works for 30 days it'll keep working for a while right?

>>2809422
>from what I know PLA+ is best
you don't know much then. PLA is the easiest to work with but has the least positive properties. The plus means "additive" it doesn't mean any one specific additive, it doesn't mean and specific propertry nor improvement. If you jizzed in your recycled PLA it would be PLA+.

>>2809428
What material do you use to print guns?

>>2809422
Fair enough.
Technical materials are things that are rather difficult to print, tend to be expensive, are rapidly damaged by moisture, can have printing complications, require you to know what you're doing, and for almost all of the shit that's on thingiverse plain old PLA is enough. I'm talking about fileaments like pic related, nylon, carbon fiber nylon, glass fiber plastics, tribo filaments, polycarbonate, and such. I print "engineering" filaments out of pure autism, and ABS out of inertia.
PLA and PETG will do 80% of what you'll realistically ever need out of a print, at a fraction of the cost,and the best place to start. PLA+, matte pla, silky pla, and high flow pla are blends of pla that are a detriment to the original material's mechanical and printable properties. PLA is actually quite strong, decently stiff, prints fantastically well, lasts a long time, has shitloads of colors, doesn't really warp, as is an overall great material provided you don't leave it in your car on a sunny day.

>>2809429
Me? I don't print guns at all Mr.Chipman. But most people get by on materials like PLA, PETG, and the reinforced variants provided the design takes into account the material. i.e., thicker walls in certain places, reinforcements, layer line orientation, and support structures.
You can't just take a cad file meant for injection molding, 3d print it, and expect it to work the same.

>>2809429
4043D, 3D850, or 3D870 PLA+
All are excellent. Never buy a material for printing guns if the company can't provide a good datasheet that tells you about the mechanical characteristics and composition of the material. Plenty of brands with a good reputation for printing gun parts even among the Chinese, like eSun, Polymaker, and Overture. Most PLA filaments won't deal with high temperatures well, and though they'll work well for most gun parts, they won't survive being left in a hot car. There are PLA varieties out there that can handle high temps if they're annealed correctly. Beyond PLA, CF Nylon is very popular for firearms, it handles a wider range of temps with ease and is, of course, very robust.

>>2809431
Thanks anon, I should probably research it some more but it sounds like the q1 will offer much more flexibility for a lower price, at the cost of some print volume and speed(I assume, not seeing a print speed on the site). Any other downsides I'm missing?
Am I being paranoid by planning on building a ventilated cuckshed to house the printer outside of my house?
>>2809436
Thanks. Can you recommend some sources that test different materials? Or just any general information on 3d printing guns that isn't reddit.

>>2809436
>Polymaker, and Overture

This is probably because Polymaker and Overture are the same people. They aren't just sourcing raw materials from the same supplier. Overture 3D Technologies, LLC is registered to individuals from Polymaker. See this document that shows Polymaker emails at the bottom: https://uspto.report/TM/88426161/NOP20190821090905/

Also, more links from Overture to Polymaker here: https://uspto.report/TM/88426161/FTK20190515070516/

In the above document, the "signatory's name" is " Xiaofan Luo". Look him up on google and you find he is the co-founder of Polymaker: https://www.crunchbase.com/person/mr-luo-xiaofan

Source is from reddit how I found out 9 months ago
>https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/12rrefj/comment/jgw1vzg/

Been interested in 3d printing for a while and I'm this fucking close to pulling the trigger and getting the a1 mini. Thoughts?

>>2809490
Honestly for $200 it's basically a no-brainer, yeah you have to deal with being in the bambu ecosystem but it's borderline a worthwhile tradeoff for that price/quality ratio

>>2809490
Yeah, it's what, $250. Just do it.

Worse case, sell it on FB marketplace in 6 months for a $60 loss.

>>2808789
Prime and sand and paint

>haven't really printed much of anything over the past year
>decide on a whim to spend four and a half hours printing a dumb meme fan shroud from noctua
>probably the tallest print I've tried bothering with
>circuit breaker flipped an hour and a half into the first attempt for vaguely unrelated reasons
>fuck it whatever, decided I probably should've used a different filament anyway and figured I'd enable supports "just in case" since I didn't have them for the first one
>supports were a fucking mistake, one of them popped off the bed an hour and a half in(hue) and I had to do a shitton of work trying to mitigate for like 40 minutes until the support no longer existed
>and to the surprise to no one, the supports weren't actually needed to begin with
shit was fucking cursed.
should've just swapped filament and not bothered trying to care about supports since it didn't look like it was going to need them but already losing a ton of time sunk into it. But whatever. On the plus side, it seems to actually be a bit beneficial. It does do better directional air output and it also actually makes the more quiet so that's neat. Also minus the dumb support issue and some fine stringing(that's easily remedied via a butane torch) the print itself looks fairly decent so that's nice, I guess.
and now my dumb ass is probably going to waste another 2 hours printing a 92mm version to strap onto a terrifying ex-server fan I have kicking around and it seems like a cute idea.

>>2809530
>trying to reread this post
christ it's been a long day.
decided against judgement to add supports since I already lost time and figured "couldn't possibly be worse and it's better than getting two hours in only to find the angles I assume don't need supports actually did."
>and it also actually makes the more quiet
It makes the fan more quiet. Or at least it changes the pitch of the fan whirring to a more bearable frequency.
>to strap onto a terrifying ex-server fan I have kicking around and it seems like a cute idea.
*like it'd be a cute idea. I mean it's still understandable to read but it also reads like an ESL typed those words.
Also for further elaboration, the server fan is 12v .5amps. Most case fans are 12v .1~amp and the noctua fan, specifically, is a 12v .05amp. It's a 92mm fan that ramps up to 3100rpm. When I say it's terrifying, I mean it's legitimately terrifying spinning at full tilt and I have no doubt it would have little to no issue taking a sizeable chunk out of a finger. It's the sort of fan that does not sit still if it's not bolted into place.

>>2809269
Some people made good money selling baby groots, baby yodas and black panther masks. Land fill fodder is surprisingly profitable and many people are depressingly stupid.

Designing an all lead screw printer. X and Y will have 2x steppers each, turning high helix lead screws. Steppers will be stationary.

Is is better for the lead screws on each axis to be counter rotating (1LH, 1RH, per axis) but only the RH threaded lead screw can have an anti-backlash nut, or for them to all be RH thread, but every lead screw to have an anti-backlash nut?

>>2809409
Refurbs are fine. I buy open box returns and have no issues. for that price I hope the chinks give a warranty lol.

>>2809494
>>2809526
Thanks for the input. I think I'll order it later today. Follow up question: I want to make custom models/minis. Any idea which program to start with? Does bambu provide a good program for that?

>>2809436
>4043D, 3D850, or 3D870 PLA+
>$30 for the basic bitch PLA we all used to buy.
I would like to rip on protopasta for their pricing, but the reality is PLA has become so trash over the last five-eight years with all these different blends and modifiers that even if print has improved the material has lost that ridiculous layer adhesion and stiffness.

>>2809530
Supports aren't separating as it appears that you're overextruding slightly/running hot.
but it looks like it worked overall.

>>2809582
I think people usually use Zbrush if you're fancy, Blender if you're poor. Could also check out Hero Forge if it's kinda what you're looking for. Although if you're going to be making minis, be aware that FDM-printers (melts a roll of plastic) is not as detail-accurate as a resin printer (blasts goo with UV-beams)

>>2809652
Yea I'm aware about resin quality. I hope the 0.2mm nozzle will compensate for that. I'm not ready for the extra work a resin printer entails, ya know? I mostly want to dip my toes into the hobby and don't want to overwhelm myself.
Anything else you recommend I look into before I bite the bullet and get the a1 mini?

>>2809666
I feel you on the resin, it's a ton of work and I hope it gets improved on in the coming years for consumers.
The only thing to be mindful of is that 180mm3 might be smaller than you think, but unless you plan of printing helmets in one piece and you don't mind potentially gluing things together if you want something bigger, and considering you seem aimed at minis and stuff like that, I'd say go for it, worst case scenario you don't like it and you'll almost guaranteed get your money back on marketplace.

>>2808477
you can wash the dried crusty glue from the piece with hot water and a sponge or paper towel. expect your bottom layer to eventually represent the glue craters on your bed.

t. former glueanon now PEI masterrace

>>2809079
thanks, brb going to kms

>>2809101
>why is AMS so important to people?
1. colors
2. colors
3. support materials
4. colors

>>2809736
>support materials
>single nozzle
no. just fucking no. I've been down that path and there's only suffering there.

>>2809088
>>2809078
Bowden TPU chads rise up. I didn't change shit except cleaning the nozzle slightly and using a slow print speed.

>>2809736
Changing filaments(both colors and materials) without having to get up from my desk would be the main attractor for me, where I could keep ABS, PLA, PET-CF, and maybe a nylon or different color of ABS.
But I found out last thread that it really doesn't work as a drybox/dryer let alone as a standalone unit.

>>2809079
>>2809269
and I didn't even need a printer. I could I sell this on etsy for like $180+ shipping?

>>2809759
are you retarded?

>>2809769
but it is a sealed drybox as designed. the only thing keeping it from being a stand alone is the communication inputs. and it's just controls so bypassing the bambu boards and just directly controlling the extruders (5) and switch might be your best bet. taking stand alone to mean changing the input filament to a non-bambu labs printer without getting up from your desk.

fucking negativity everywhere, jesus.

>>2809101
I like the AMS
Its convenient to have 4 rolls ready to go at any time, and the multicoloured printing while it can make shit long and is a bit wasteful is handy to have for certain things

>>2809078
>meone help me out before I chuck this entire Ender 3 v2 into the trash
>TPU flexi fillament printing (attempting too). Massive under extrusion
Day 3 of trying to print flex TPU

> bought a new direct drive extruder. Bowden drive is out
> play around with all range of temperatures, nozzle and bed
> tested print speed from 5mm/s to 15mm/s
> increased the flow rate from 100% to 125% in increments
> changed out the tube
> played around with the tension on the gears
> turned off all retraction
> changed out the nozzle

Current status:
> left the filament in the dry box at 55C for 24 hours
Wish me luck bros

>>2809598
no I mean, the support lifted off the bed. The support wasn't actually needed to begin with, the angle was deep enough that cura was showing red but it's gradual enough that it really doesn't *need* the supports(image related).
But if a support lifts midway through, it's not like the printer knows and can suddenly adjust to just not printing the support each layer, you know? So the options are to either pause the print, hope I can affix the support into the proper place and not have the pause create a catastrophic error, stop the print entirely and restart without supports to avoid the mess, or say fuck it, do it live and babysit the literal fuck out of it while making sure the filament it spits out for the missing support doesn't fuck anything up. The supports, that actually stuck to the plate, separated perfectly fine.
As for why the support lifted in the first place, probably because my bed is, unfortunately, not very flat and has some weird dips that make levelling a bitch. I should probably see if there's an updated/better firmware at some point since the levelling options aren't great(can't remember if it's only 9 point or 12 point or something like that) but that's an errand for a different day. Either way, I think it was just in a bad spot and you can only compensate so much with a gluestick.
>it appears that you're overextruding slightly/running hot
probably on both counts. I was at 208c since I'm usually using PLA+ and this is just PLA. And I'm also using a cheap .6mm chink nozzle on top of, I'm pretty sure, that I need to make adjustments to my extruder anyway(it occasionally just starts squeaking erratically in use), so those two things+running slightly hot, yeah it's probably overextruding a bit.
still can't really complain about the performance of a fairly unmaintained, two and a half? year old ender3 clone, tho.

>>2809079
>Don't know who the target market is for it, but she seems to be moving them.
You should see what custom prints go for in the corporate world...

>>2809574
>All lead screw printer
Like an old kodama trinus or a pantheon HS3?
I don't think it's a a particular good idea, but even if it's just for fun i'd rather incorporate a two nut solution than relying on springs.

>>2809889
You mean where tolerances are actually an issue and entry material is nylon? Damn, i wonder why that would be more expensive than Bob's custom back scratcher.

>>2809897
>entry material is nylon?
This, though nylon doesn't typically have the proper UL94 rating. Not to mention anything that might get ct scanned prior to use.

>>2809897
No you dumbass, go look up custom corporate logo 3d prints in PLA. Hell, I even did a small mockup and 3D print for a local hospital wing extension and got nearly 1k for it.

>>2809885
disable fan until layer 999999

Has anyone tried/heard of a DIY AMS? Would it be that hard really, like isn't it just telling a stepper to go forward and backward at different gcodes?

>>2809916
Not sure if that would work. Due to a previous... incident... I've soldering over of fuses on the motherboard so that the fans are now always on.

>>2809897
Like neither. Cross gantry, stationary steppers, hotend on a carriage that rides on 4x linear guide rods.

Inspired by a russian design I saw on YT, but that guy was using aliexpress tier leadscrews and linear guide rails that were obviously flexing, leading to crunchy noises. I think using quality components (igus) and linear guide rails, it will work a lot better.

Mainly I want to build a printer, but don't want to do yet another core xy.

>>2809946
What's the point? the forces on our toolheads are insignificant, and what's required is speed.

>>2809952
If you have to ask, you're not going to understand.

There is more to the 3d printing hobby that just speed benchies. Like for my SV05, I could have gone with klipper, and just copied the Zero G Mercury. Instead I kept it Marlin, used an old RADDS board with an Arduino Due, printed out and set up a herome hotend, used a le potato for octoprint, and even set up a SMuFF (which the ERCF is based off of; for some reason people think the SMuFF is a clone). It will lose in a speed benchy competition witha Mercury One, but it was fun to build and it produces quality prints.

>>2809946
I’d rather go to an all-belt crossed-gantry over an all-screw one, belts don’t stretch appreciably, are easy to tension to prevent backlash, can easily take the forced, and are light. Also anti-backlash nuts are basically placebo, for them to actually work they need to have more spring force than the gantry ever exerts, which makes them bind way too much. If you actually cared you’d be using ballscrews anyhow. Use regular POM nuts.

>>2809966
I was the anon that made a printer out of floppy drives.
I do understand the feeling, I just don't find that endeavor particularly interesting.

>>2809885
Day 3 of TPU shenanigans (95A shore hardness)

Progress in that it's actually extruding (somewhat) this time. Drying out the filament seemed to have helped massively. A lot of under extrusion though. Stopped the job.

230C (product parameter rating is 210C max)
Bed 55C (product parameter says 0C)
15 mm/s
No retraction
Flow 100%


Thoughts? I'll try the same but at 210 and bed at 0C in the meantime.

I bought into the meme.
No more janky food dehydrator for me.

>>2809997
I've got one now after last week I went to go print a battery holder for a project I'm working on to find the filament going into both my printers cracked and brittle

>>2809999
I'm not feeling $150 worth of quality here. The panels aren't gasketed either.
You're not really supposed to constantly/permanently dry most filaments as it can(will)drive out plasticizers and other vocs. Filament that has been moist for a long time can also be considered to be permanently damaged, I'll see if I can find the article about it tomorrow.

>>2809078
did you turn retraction off? It can fuck up your prints badly if you leave it on for TPU

consider me a pioneer or weirdo, but what if one were to print picrel at lifesize (in parts and put together) and gave it an onahole insert? I could be the first guy that fucks a 3D print. Do you guys know of anyone that has printed life sized dolls?

>>2807951
I have an old original photon motherboard i swapped out of mine for the mono upgrade lying around catching dust.
Any suggestions what kind of a project i could do with it? I'm drawing a blank trying to come up with anything.

>>2810073
Forgot pic

>>2810051
I remember seeing a project for a fully printable sexdoll on cults or something around last year, i think... or the lower half with torso? I don't really remember.
I was trying to find it recently but i can't remember the name at all. It actually looked quite nicely engineered.
It had an orifice for adding a fleshlight to it and the preview was dressed into a blouse and plaid skirt, if i remember it correctly.
Don't know about a full-size doll though, so in that regard you might as well be a pioneer.

>>2809985
Bowdens need to be abysmally slow.
Try turning it down to 10, and also ensure there is as less friction on your TPU as possible in its way to the nozzle. If you have a runout sensor - bybass it, it's usually one of the biggest problems when it comes to TPU.
I am talking from my experience with 75A though but many of the principles still apply

So, I installed a TZ 2.0 hotend (Bambu Lab clone) and an Orbiter 2.0 on my old Anet A8 printer.
Then I realized that Anet A8 is 12V and TZ 2.0 uses 24V, resulting in 4 times slower heating up. It was difficult to reach 200°C and printing was possible, but just barely. Hotend's temperature often dropped mid-print so much that the temp runaway was triggered.
To fix this, I added a voltage amplifier (12V to 24V, max 3A). Unfortunately, after plugging it in the hotend does not heat up at all. If I disconnect this voltage amplifier the hotend heats up slowly again, so it seems that nothing was shorted.
I am probably retarded, any idea what causes this? Is it possible that the stock mosfet is too weak? Maybe adding an external mosfet can fix this?
The recommended minimum current for this amplifier is 0.5A so it should not be a problem, as the original heater is 40W/12V, so 3.3A. TZ 2.0 heater should be 48W/24V.

>>2810076
keyword is sexercise hips,

>>2810133
Yeah thanks, i found it. I thought it was a free design though, weirdly enough.
>>2810051
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/naughties/stroker-holder-v2-lily-3d-printable-sexercise-doll

>>2809997
take the vacuum drier pill

>>2810184
>plastic
>vacuum
ishygddt
https://ntrs.nasa.gov/api/citations/19690026573/downloads/19690026573.pdf

>>2810193
lol I don't, I have a compressor/vacuum setup but don't bother, I use it for drying and curing prints with the valve open and then just close it after a dry cycle.

Thanks for the paper though, good info. I thought using the vacuum was a bad idea. this is made to purge butane from a cannabis extraction. Industry collapsed so I got it for free. works real well as a dry box, where I live is like 50-100% humidity

>>2810193
>>2810205
compared to ambient

>>2810205
>where I live is like 50-100% humidity
I feel you dawg, NE Texas here

>hold off on buying a 3d printer for a long time
>get a neptune 3 just when it seems like the right time
>few weeks later the 3 pro is released and a year later the 4 series
Just decided to upgrade to an A1 Mini, enjoy the upcoming $250 CoreXY with a built-in AMS in a few weeks.

>>2810208
it's bad for printing. thankfully I got a Qidi x-max3 and it has a dry box mounted on it, bought a shit ton of 100gr dessicant bags and it's been pretty damn smooth.

I see these mods where people leave their rolls hanging out in the open and it's a hard no for climates like this

>>2809985
Have you properly checked for clogging anon? Any clicking noises? It shouldn't be this hard. My sv06 prints TPU fine at 30mm/s mid temperatures no heated bed. If your extruder grabs it it should not be difficult at all.

>>2810119
damaged 12>24V module?
have you metered its output to check?

If your motherboard supports jumper selected voltages you could get a 24V PSU and set the the led/fan jumpers to 12V. Pretty much everything else will be designed for, or work fine with 24V.
I did this recently because bambu nozzle - despite having a 12>24V module already. No regrets. Warmup times are so fast now.

>>2807573
Well the dish soap spergs were right, I washed the bed with dishsoap and water then wiped it down with iso. Test print adhered perfectly and I actually had to wait for the bed to cool to pry it off. Lesson learned.
>>2809530
I was gonna make this too but put two together and make a sort of small room fan. I found a usb-a -> 2 4pin pwm fan controller on amazon to power it.
Does yours fit 120mm or 140mm fans? I forgot to check when I downloaded the file and I can't find the original upload anymore.

>>2810406
Like I said: some people dont know what 'clean hands' actually means.
Wash and dry your fucking hands and then touch nothing, use a new, clean, disposable napkin that you avoid touching any more then necessary while you fold it, apply iso, and wipe the bed. Discard it.
THEN you can scratch your nose and refill your fingernails with smegma. But not before the bed is clean.

...or just use dishsoap and water, becasue then you are forced to wash your fucking hands anyway.

You may also have a situation like me: my GT2 belt touches the inside of the printed X carriage. It's miniscule and barely even makes contact, but over time it generates a black dust that can fall onto the bed. Nothing sticks to this shit, and it can be impossible to see.
It's so miniscule that I can't even measure any degradation in the belt width, but I know its happening becasue every so often when i pop my hotend off the quick release carriage i see the blotches of black inside the carriage.... and usually end up with some on my bed.

>>2810406
>Does yours fit 120mm or 140mm fans?
this one is for 120's
https://www.printables.com/en/model/887071-nv-aa1-12-airflow-amplifier
but this one has 140, 100, 92 and 80mm sizing options
https://www.printables.com/en/model/889513-noctua-airflow-amplifier-for-different-fan-sizes

Not sure it'd function super well as a "room fan," but it functions pretty decently as a fixed directional fan depending on how powerful the fan you have strapped onto it is and how far away it's placed.
Best I can think to describe it is as similar to a low intensity (conical) hair dryer, minus the heat.

>>2810415
I mean more like a small space fan, room is the wrong word. Mostly for when I go camping it's nice having a little airflow when I sleep.
If you put it on the other side of the fan you think it could work as a sort of fume hood for soldering?

>>2810418
I imagine it'd probably be fine for something like that.
>If you put it on the other side of the fan you think it could work as a sort of fume hood for soldering?
After testing it quickly with an incense stick, within 4-6 inches probably? Though this isn't accounting for any additional backpressure it might have to fight through if you add a form of filter to it and while the incense certainly did localize to one of the outlets(well, inlet in this case), I'm not sure how much more effective it would be than just having the fan going without it at all if you're keeping the fan that close, anyway.

>>2807956
just bought one four months ago or so. and then got an email a week later that they were defective and not to use it. they gave me an option of sending it back for a refund plus $80 credit or keeping it and waiting for a new heatbed for a couple months and a $120 credit. come to think of it, i dont think ive received my credit yet.... fuckers. hope you have better luck than i did anon.

lol
gotta love the way organic support just lets you mong things together, even if theres ridiculous reacharound required.

I can't design a decent pocket cunny silicon mold. What the fuck should i do? I'm using FreeCAD and I'm not very good with it.
I made like two molds but the resulting part is always too tight for me. Is there any way i can introduce some kind of mechanical feature which can allow for the silicon part to "move" to give my penor more pleasure by allowing for it to be tight but also flexible enough to cover it completely

>>2810278

They Kickstarted a 350x350 creality k2 with Ams at $750 last week, I expect once it launches and they fix the horrendous shit in the launch edition there will be perfectly good ones around $700 after Christmas or new years

I'm with you though, any time I built some cutting edge machine the chinks put out a machine that might be a little rough around the edges but is overall as good within 6 months

>>2810493
this is what 3D printing was destined for

add a belted area to the shell near your dick head, tighter fit. no moving parts required (unless you want to lose your dick)

>>2807959
0.2mm nozzle gang.

>>2810493
What silicone are you using? It doesn't sound soft enough. You really want 00-30 at the hardest, I'd recommend a 00-10 or 00-20 like Smooth-On has in their Ecoflex line. If you're working in something more common like a 10A-15A, you're gonna have a bad time and potentially hurt yourself in ways you didn't know were possible.

>>2808789
I learned my painting from doing 40k minis that you can see in the background behind the midnas. Not saying you should go specifically into this to start (It's too fucking expensive unless you have a resin setup), but many principles easily carry over, just with a bigger brush. You can find plenty of mini painting tutorials online. Even the games workshop ones are great (Avoid the paints though, the paints are good but the pots WILL spill and are expensive as shit)
If i had to condense the basics it's pretty much just:
>Prime
>(Optionally) sand
>Don't slop the paint on thickly and thin it out a little bit and spread it across the model as much as possible
>Leave it at that or go ham with shading and details for extra fanciness
Oh and also don't be a retard like me and don't use PETG for figurines. It worked for big Midna through some effort but primers, paints, and ESPECIALLY glues really hate bonding to it. I had to learn it the hard way.

>>2810493
You can try to make some flares on the negative of the mold to work as relief points that allow the silicon to bend around instead of being one solid shell, but >>2810547 anon is right - Your silicone seems to be too hard for what you want.
Basically later parts of this tutorial but in reverse since you're making a mold: https://youtu.be/Bd7Yyn61XWQ?si=5ZK_j8MFCgyOWTRN

>>2810547
>>2810550
Damn 00-10 to 00-20?
I was using 10A, no wonder it felt like a brick dunny
I guess I'll add some 'bumps' to make it more like the real thing

>>2810553
>10A
Yeah i've tried that one before too and it was completely unusable, as is the entire A scale, pretty much.

>>2810553
Yeah 10A is much too hard for men. >>2810555 is right, if it's on the A scale it's too hard. I would seek out some 00-20, it's soft enough for what you want, but still more versatile and easier to work with than 00-10. 00-30 is the hardest I'd ever go for, it's right on the edge where it's barely soft enough for men, barely hard enough for women. Better as a secondary for more complex stuff that needs rigidity to support softer 00-10 innards.

>>2807974
> evaporate salt water on your 3d printer
sounds like a great way of making everything rusty

>Does yours fit 120mm or 140mm fans?
Mine's for a 140mm fan I had laying around. I printed three different shrouds and "tested" by feel which one worked best. Most importantly it seems to still have good airflow 3 feet away from the fan, which is what I needed for mounting on the treadmill.
I'm always amused that something like this is just 2 watts.

>>2810598
Menant for
>>2810406

>>2810598
>I'm always amused that something like this is just 2 watts.
That's why I wanted it, my battery pack will easily last all night with this plugged in.
Of course now my PLA+ is printing like shit so I have to spend today troubleshooting that. Was hoping to get my shroud done but I guess I'll print it next week.

>>2807969
Sugar water works even better than salt, apply it wet to the hot bed and you'll get a super sticky thin candy layer that'll pop off easy after it's cooled

>>2810676
It's already in deployment for me.
Ball cooler while running on the treadmill.

>>2810289
Yes, cleared the whole thing out. It's just under extrusion now.

>>2810092
Thanks, will try. No runout sensor.

>>2810699
>lacks ribbons; so it tickles your balls at the same time
filthy casual

I couldn't afford a bigger printer so I had to settle for the A1 Mini, how big of an obstacle is the small build plate really? If I'm jonesing for a larger print and I've got a dremel to weld and sand it into one piece, is that feasible?

>>2810728
Not a whole lot.
If you feel like wasting filament and doing a torture test, print a 150*150*15 box in vase mode and see all the shit can do with it.
The advantage of a larger plate is being able to lay things flat, not so much printing larger/more things in my experience.

Can someone explain desiccants to me?
A 50g packet of desiccant that came with a filament can bring an entire box down to 10%. An entire 1kg plus of indicating gel below in a container not much larger can't manage more than 25%. Did I get changed? Is there a method to recharging these that I'm simply not following correctly?
I know rh is difficult to measure accurately and will vary with multiple factors, but I'd still expect greater than 10% accuracy for these things.

>>2810743
>Did I get changed?

lol did it autocorrect from chink to change?

>>2810743
It has to be "A" type silica gel.

Need opinions, I printed my z belt parts with esun green. Well I am wanting to print housing that goes under 2040 on the front of my ender 3 to put my orange pi and controller board, I happen to have spool of overture grass green abs and polymaker lime, in your opinion yay or nay on this color combo?

>>2810754
>that shape

>>2809347
>mfw 70% on a normal day
Is it over?

Opinions on VariCAD? Better than FreeCAD?

>>2810802
>70%
nigger fuck the plastic - that's pretty much unlivable.

>>2810828
Who?

>>2810754
Were the buttplugs necessary?
I emailed a rep from one of these companies last night, asking the same question. Let's see if they respond, though their site does explain that clear non-indicating gel has a higher absorption percentage by weight. Makes no mention as to their effectiveness in 30-20% rh.
What I'm also thinking is that when I recharged it, I used a gas oven like a moron. Almost all the silica gel that I have came out of industrial desiccant breathers, so it wasn't in the best condition to begin with.
I'll try an electric oven later today during off peak hours.
>>2810749
close enough. it was Chang'd.

>>2810848
It's possible that the gas oven VOC are to blame.

>>2808270
Why? Why anyone need THAT?

>>2808658
Doe's this thing need Registeronlinestayonlinegiveusyourdata. Or just you bought it, you set it up, no internet connection bullshit required and start working?

>>2810865
Just bought it, set it up on the screen, and that's it.
The way you update firmware is by loading a new klipper image onto a usb stick, plugging it in, and waiting 20-30 minutes for it to update. I run the printer with no internet connection on my router, just so that I can send files to it and it's not complained once.
There is no "app" either.
It's just a corexy with an active heater running klipper to be honest.

I'm not a 3d printer. Coworker wants to get her husband a "decent" fdm printer and a "basic" resin printer, willing to spend up to $800 total for both machines.

She stated she wants to get a "decent" fdm printer that:
>"works well with" or comes with an enclosure
>"has auto bed leveling" which I told her most machines seem to have stock nowadays
>"easily uses a webcam or comes with one out of the box"
for general printing

and also a smaller "basic" resin printer exclusively for printing warhammer minis

the creality k1 was the first page 1 result on scamazon for what met her maymay arrow requirements, but I don't know shit about resin printers.

Any recommendations for a "basic" resin printer and a "better" fdm printer?

>>2810890
If somebody had gifted me a resin printer i'd be royally pissed.

>>2810899
>Honey, I got you a box of chemical burns and respiratory damage!
I have several FDM and resin printers, but >>2810899
>If somebody had gifted me a resin printer i'd be royally pissed.

Bambu P1S, A1, or A1 mini, no resin printer, job done. If you buy someone a Creality machine you're buying them a HUGE time investment fixing that chink piece of shit. They're perfectly good printers for enthusiasts who are happy to have to fix brand new things before they're usable, but terrible gifts. If it's a gift it has to not be infuriating bullshit, and that means it has to be a spyware-powered Bambu. It'd be a nice gift, a 3D printer that works and is extremely capable, and it's a good value. If someone bought me a FDM printer from Prusa, Creality, Anycubic, Flashforge, Longer, Elegoo, Voxelab, AnkerMake, TronXY, or Sovol I'd beg them to return the piece of shit and just give me the money.

>>2810890
>Basic resin printer
As far as i know Elegoo is the king of extreme budget sector, both printers and resin, but all budget ones are literally the same machine with different firmwares. Just recommend the one that has the least complaints from customers and you're golden.

>>2810899
>>2810900
I was hoping for opinions from anons above the age of 18 who own a 3d printer but thanks for the chuckle I guess

>>2810910
Take the advise you're given you fucking retard. Your coworker has a bad idea she shouldn't act on. Bambu P1S, no resin printer, problem solved, happy husband. Or go tell her to buy some random printers off Amazon because you don't give a shit about her and think it would be funny to make her husband suffer.

You don't know what you're doing, you don't know shit about printers, so you asked the question. We respond honestly, and you shrug it off with a laugh as though you know more. Again, you're a fucking retard.

>>2810910
Have you considered asking reddit?

>>2810914
underaged poster seems upset

>>2810917
>Didn't hear what I wanted to hear
>Must be the people answering my questions who are wrong.

>>2810890
Bambu A1 or P1S, but no resin printer, giving a resin printer as a gift is a terrible idea, tell your coworker it's a bad idea and to not make that mistake. A P1S to a new noob would be an amazing mind-blowing gift, the resin printer would be an inundation.

>>2810910
I hope she's preparing a massive binder full of information on the dangers of resin printing. As well as appropriate PPE

>>2810890
>Surprise, honey!

>>2810973
I keep thinking that pic on the right is a stump.

Why do my flow calibration cubes always have one mismatching side?
To calibrate the flow for new filaments, I print a cube (without the top) with two 0.4mm walls each, then measure the end result.
However, every time I do that my cube has a weird side. Like for example, I'm holding a cube that has 0.79, 0.79, 0.81 and 0.75. At 100% flow rate, it did 0.96, 0.95, 0.94 and 0.90.
What causes this? I get that the 0.01 mismatches could just be shitty filament width and whatnot (this is a shitty filament btw), but I feel like always having a mismatching side has to be something in the printer itself.

>>2810890
You have a moral duty to explain to her the dangers of resin printing.

>>2810676
Trying to print in pla+, I saw there's bubbles in my filament yesterday so I let it dry for 6 hours in my filament dryer. Ran a test print today and got picrel.
The extrusion looks bubbly and inconsistent when I manually extrude and you can see the lines here are pretty bad when I try a test print. Is this a clogged nozzle? Should I be using different nozzles for PLA and PLA+?

>>2810984
>Why do my flow calibration cubes always have one mismatching side?
post pics and gcode.
Is it just the cube, or are other parts under extruded?

>>2810679
I will try that later. I caved and bought a glue stick, which works very well with a PEI bed. It's messy but effective, and seems a requirement for only that one brand of PLA.

>>2810998
Clean the gears in your extruder. PLA+ is not that susceptible to moisture in my experience.
If it were moisture you'd probably hear the popping of vapour.

>>2810999
>or are other parts under extruded
I don't know, I think it's too small to be noticeable by just looking at it. Maybe there's some type of testprint I can do? I don't know.

>>2811005
Yes. a vasemode box.

>>2811001
Never taken apart my hotend before, guess it's about time since I've had the thing 8 months and never cleaned it.
I actually do hear what might be popping I just thought it was the plastic getting reeled in. What temp do you use to dry pla+? I ran mine at 50C.

>>2811013
Not the hotend, the extruder.
the part with the gears that sits atop the hot part.
Chances are your printer manufacturer has a guide on how to do this, or it can be done without any disassembly.

>>2810890
>I'm not a 3d printer.
Good to know m8

Recommend her a Bambulab P1S. And show her some quality gore videos of chemical burns, I would only touch that shit with a full body hazmat suit, equipped with a portable O2 tank.
Feel free to ask for the best cancer machine over >>>/tg/3dpg

>>2807969
reduce speed.

Is there a way to do custom infills? I have a semi-transparent filament that you can see the infill through, I thought about doing something cool with the insides but idk how.

Not to sound like a regulatory cuck but I feel like resin printing should require some sort of proof of competency for the average consumer so that people don't kill themselves trying to make miniatures because they saw a youtuber skip past 9/10 steps in the cleanup and maintenance process

>>2811107
Americans are paying the Chinese for bottles of toxic waste to rub in their eyes and pour down their drains, it's a problem.

>forgot to change back to a 0.4mm nozzle
>Part printed just fine with a 0.6mm hardened nozzle.
>Purge line and a portion of the first layer is a mixture of abs-gf and PLA.
Huh. I can only presume the infill is a hollow underextruded clusterfuck, but with six walls I'm not too concerned.

>>2811107
>Not to sound like a regulatory cuck
And yet, you somehow managed to.

>>2811107
>proof of competency
>for anything
if only that was possible
all of the worlds issues would be solved

Day 5 of trying to print 95A TPU.

Down to 10mm/s, still looks like shit. Didn't put any bed glue down this time so maybe that's it. Day 6 will be same settings with bed glue and bed temp of 50C.

>>2811135
It's not the glue. It's not extruding, nigga. You need to figure out why it's not extruding and fix that.

>>2811107
Darwinism finds a way.

>>2811135
your problem is clearly extruder-related.
Are you sure you're mechanically possible to print this plastic?

>>2811137
>>2811141
Not sure what else to do.

> nozzle is clear, put a ram rod through it and checked it
> the gear is gripping the filament
> it's attached to a direct drive now
> the filament was dried out for 24 hour at 55C
> the speed is down to 10mm/s
> the flow is up to 120%
> PLA and PETG print fine (I have to loosen the gear a little bit, but otherwise fine)

>>2811144
Fuck it, it's going in the drying box for 48 hours.

>>2811144
Okay, now stop trying to print. Load your filament, set the temperature toward the high end (230C sounds good), and manually attempt to extrude filament. You say it's gripping the filament, but it sure doesn't look like it. It's underextrusion, drying it more won't solve this. If it really is gripping the filament fine, then it's getting caught somewhere else, it's snagging somewhere in your filament path. TPU is good at that, it'll catch on corners and edges of shit, need a good clean and path from spool to nozzle.

>>2811144
At this point, cold pull with abs/petg and make sure your nozzle and heatbreak are clear.
Drying the filament more won't help. It's very much not extruding.

>>2811135
EXTRUSION
the way you keep coming back to say how you tried irrelevant shit thats not extrusion related is getting old.
fix your fucking extrusion broseph

How big is the nozzle aperture and what layer height are you trying to print there anyway?

tpu does NOT need
a hot bed - 40C is plenty, 30 should be fine
a partfan - disable it entirely

Does the filament po and fizzle while being extruded?

Using TPU; raise the nozzle 100mm and repeatedly extrude 25mm at 5mm/s... say 3 or 4 times... does it look like a smooth extrusion? or does it look bumpy all the way no matter how much you extrude?
Do the same thing at a cool temperature, like 190 or 200, whatever actually extrudes but is considered low ot below the suggested temps.
Then do it again at or above the max suggested temps.
... like 75-100mm of extrusion into the air so you can inspect the nature of it for smoothness or bumps.

>>2811190
ie:
At every PRINT_START i purge filament, and end up with lots of little twirls like picrel in a bucket next to the bed.
I also see similar offcast extrusion when changing filament.
NOTE: the little bumps at the start (bottom) of the extrusion. It's very subtle in this case, and i recently discarded my trash so I dont have the examples of TPU I recently had come off my initial loads of that, but that is what moisture looks like. It can be much more obvious, and almost certainly will be with TPU.

>>2811200
its also what bubbles look like, but you get the idea; extrude a few lenghts and if they display knobs or lumps you have a moisture issue. If its only at the first few mm of the extrusion then its probably just bubbles from the nozzle void, or moisture in that section of filament. ie: the glob of hardened filament inside the nozzle, not necessarily the spool of filament.
Initial globs are normal, its when you extrude 50+mm and still see them that you have filament problems.
AFAIK You can only try to dry filament so much too. At some point it starts becoming pointless.

>>2811200
post gcode then.
At this point chances are you fucked something up there.

>>2811202
I'm not the person with the problem, doofus.
I'm a person attempting to assist.

>>2811200
the top, upright section, is what you DO want to see: smooth, sexy, even and shiny. With NO LUMPS

>tfw checking up on a nine hour print.
>scrolling fluidd on phone, accidentally set pressure advance to 2.0 and the entire thing just crashes.
This interface can be absolute aids on mobile.
>>2811203
realized shortly thereafter.
I still think he should post gcode, he might be doing something wrong there too.

>>2811205
>doing something wrong there too
mhmm, yep, agreed
I'm waiting for the "oh shit i have a 0.8 nozzle installed and 0.2 set in firmware/slicer"
Or the less likely to get said, but most likely to be the issue: the filament is fucked.

>>2811206
I don't think TPU is a filament that gets damaged by humidity in the same way petg/pla/nylon do. Though I'm basing this off tpu's low VOC and lack of plasticizes in injection molding and no real research.
Even if his problem were humidity he'd be getting strings and warts, not the mess we're seeing.
Do we even know what printer/extruder he's using? Some older extruders did not have a sufficiently constrained filament path to print even hard tpu.
Gcode will tell everything from speeds, retractions, temps, etc.

>>2811144
>I have to loosen the gear a little bit, but otherwise fine
lol, are you sure you arent crushing the tpu so hard that its only pushing a ribonised sliver of it into the heater? You shouldnt need ludicrous amounts of extruder gear force on TPU; if it works for PETG/PLA it should fine for TPU

Round 2.
hopefully I don't fuck it up this time 7 hours into the print by checking in on it remotely.

>>2811207
>humidity
Just checklisting all the things i havent seen evidence against.
I'm new to TPU too, but ive seen enough of it being warty to know moisture is an issue.
It is a bitch to print sometimes though.

> what printer/extruder he's using?
also want to know
I'm not entirely convinced they aren't still using a bowden setup.
Person with the problem: is the extruder motor directly on top of, and connected directly to, your hotend/nozzle? ie: with no flexible tubes between the two things?

>>2811210
You should check if you can adjust the camera controls on that. It always strikes me as weird that bambus have such shit looking internal cam images.
Mines a cheap webcam, it looked nasty to begin with, but it looks decent after i tweaked a few v4l2-ctl settings.

>>2811214
oh, thats not a bambu... is it?

>>2811217
It's slippery with the fluidd interface.
On Mobile as I touch the screen to scroll down it also changes settings. It doesn't have the touch delay to allow for scrolling other pages do on mobile.

coming back from a 8~ year hiatus on printing. got ender 3 s1 pro in the mail

do people still post stls to thingiverse mostly? it feels less active than i remember

>>2811228
i recommend you return the ender 3 s1 or cancel it if able, these are consumer electronics and each new generation is a slight step above the prior, the extra 50 bucks for an ender 3 v3 se,ke, or the top model is totally worth it

>>2811230
How much better? I'm in leafland and the prices are
ender 3 s1 pro
>$300
ender 3 v3 se
>$330
ender 3 v3 ke
>$340
I honestly can't tell the difference looking at spec sheets. How much better is the v3 KE compared to s1pro? what's better?
Use case will mostly be making cosplay props and other trinkets, gonna be sanding/filling/painting 80% of what I make.

>>2811232
I too am in leafland, the top model is simply called the V3 and looks like this, the s1 pro simply doesnt have all the bells and whistles as this model. s1 pros regular print speed is 50mm/s while this one can reliably do 500mm/s.
you are listing the prices in usd right? where are you seeing those prices. I wish instead spending hundreds on upgrades on my V2 that id instead just get the v3 but its too late now

>>2811234
canada computers has those prices, they're regional though.

also is thingiverse still the home for stl sharing

>>2811237
yes thingiverse is still good

>>2811237
get the v3 ke, it will be 100% worth it

so.....

anyone have any good stl sharing discords or sites?

I say this because I want to get in on a group that shares paid stls. People do deserve to be paid for their work, but some of those people can go fuck themselves for what they charge for a 5mb stl file.

I go to yeggi, thingiverse, cults3d etc etc etc, all the good shit is either stupid expensive or paywalled behind a stupid expensive patreon.

>>2811259
nice try james

>>2811268
wait shit, this is /diy/ not /tg/
nice try glownigger

>>2811230
>>2811232
>>2811241
Can we please stop recommending creality's ewaste here?
Yes, i know it's probably some Indian shills anyway, but please have some decency and get some SV06, A1 instead, if it's already gotta be a bedslinger in current year.

>>2810743
So is moisture actually a real issue for print stock, or is it some snake oil hand rubbing bullshit? I just chuck my roll in a drawer and leave it there. So far so good

Did a creality owner fuck your wife or something
Give a real reason for not recommending a printer with a huge install base and lots of aftermarket/community support if you wanna earn that precious (You).

>>2811272
Mostly depends on your environment and can range from essential to indeed snake oil.

>>2811272
It isn't bullshit, but it depends on when you consider a filament/part unusable. Some filaments will be immediately unprintable(PVA), Some can take a day or two to show issues (nylon), most can take months/years(PLA, PET, PC, TPU), and some may not be affected at all beyond how they smell when printing(ABS).
Most of the time it's an issue with stringing and surface finish, very rarely will it affect part strength. It mostly affects thin walls when it comes to strength, as on thin walls quality=strength.
tldr, Put your spool back in the bag it came with with it's desiccant pack and you'll probably be fine for quite a while.
Main reason I've embarked on this project if because I had nearly ten kilos of desiccant and no real application for it. So naturally, in order to use my free desiccant I went out and spent shitloads of time and money on tupperware, hygrometers, and filament dryers.

>>2811297
>>2811272
I've linked an article below, though do not let it influence any purchase. It relies heavily on taking the moisture issue to the extreme, in reality this would take a very long time to happen, probably longer than you'd reasonably keep the spool for.
In case you want to read a bit:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2666682022000123
Some takeaways, though do keep in mind this is with the spools completely submerged in hot water for anywhere between a day to a month:

>At elevated temperatures and after prolonged exposure to
moisture, nylon degrades via hydrolysis of the amide linkages in its
backbone and subsequent dissociation of the amide bonds, as well as lower molecular weight and reduced durability

>PLA is primarily hydrophobic [...] PLA, however, can degrade under hydrolytic conditions whereby the diffusion of water molecules breaks the ester bonds. This chain scission leads to significant reductions in molecular weight and mechanical properties, although swelling is negligible.
This is why some PLA just never seems to recover after being moist. Though printing it from a dryer softens it up enough that it won't break coming off the spool. I reckon it is also the problem creality originally had with their sample spools of white PLA that people refereed to as "dried toothpaste" for how shit it was.

>The PLA specimens absorb ⁓ 0.9 wt% moisture at 21 ◦C after 24hours [submerged], which then remains relatively constant for the next 10 days.

>It has also been observed that PLA undergoes bulk degradation when immersed in water at elevated temperatures.
Boiling your PLA spools is a bad idea it would seem.

>While the Nylon and Nylon Composite specimens were still intact after 28 days of immersion, the PLA specimens showed signs of significant material degradation. They were very fragile physically after 7 days at 70 ◦C.
Do not store your PLA spools in the shower.

The screen of my k1 won't turn on.
How can I tell if the screen broke or if it's the cable.
>Creality quality at its finest

>>2811314
unplug cable, check continuity for each of the pins.
alternatively, did you plug the ribbon cable the correct way around and seat it properly?
Watch a video on how to install flat ribbon cables.

>>2811297
>>2811306
Thanks for the qrd. Seems to be a very YMMV situation.

>>2810890
Pretty much all resin printers are the same now except for the size. The real issue is whether they have the environment for it. They're going to need to pretty much have a room ore enclosure space dedicated entirely for it that they can't ventilate regularly to the outside. A resin printer isn't just something you stick in the corner of your living room or office.
For reference, here's my resin setup for a room I can't ventilate.
>>>/tg/92979716
A mostly sealed cabinet in a room I don't use that has an air purifier that i run for 2 hours every time I get home.

>>2811318
>Seems to be a very YMMV situation.
It depends mostly on how you approach it. Dryers? probably snake oil for most. Dryboxes? depends on your situation, chances are the bag the spool came in is resealable and has desiccant in it.
Dryboxes are a matter of convenience.
I find it to be mostly a very snake oily situation when it comes to filament dryers, having spent quite a bit on an eibos, a cheap sunlu(still worth about 4 spools of filament), and a $10 food dehydrator from a thrift store. The idea of "rescuing" a filament that has been damaged by moisture is rather pointless considering the cost of a new spool vs most 3d printing specific dehydrators, even worse when you consider the degradation that occurs with moisture+time. It's why I'm much more interested in keeping filament dry than I am in drying it. I can't get over the thought that they market dryers to people printing things like PLA, ABS, and ASA as if it will magically fix print issues.

>>2809999
If you leave pla in it constantly drying it will crystallize, hence the dry brittleness you saw.
Set it to an abs profile while printing and print from as close to the dehydrator as possible to somewhat soften the pla while printing.

>>2811316
How do I know the screen is not the problem though?

>>2811259
Sounds like you're looking for figurines and other toys. >>>/tg/3dpg

>>2811364
If the cable is visibly fine and not kinked, torn, cut, or otherwise fucked, and it's clearly plugged in correctly at both ends, then it's probably the screen. Is this is a brand new printer, screen doesn't work out of the box? Is this a printer with hundreds of hours on it and you just woke up today to find the screen not working? Give some details you little shit.

>>2811371
It was working then I turn it on and it stopped working out of nowhere

>>2811389
So it's been working and stopped suddenly. Assuming you've turned it off and back on again, can you confirm if anything else is working? Can the printer do anything, can you connect to it remotely, etc? You want to be sure if the screen has stopped working, or if the whole thing has stopped working. If the printer is still functional aside from the screen, then the screen has probably died.

>>2811370
yeah basically
I just want something to paint, but cults has so much other shit worth printing if you can get it for free.
Also car parts that are paywalled interest me.

Thank you btw.

>>2811270
i pirate everything i consooooom so this is just a logical step. I've never seen any "private" stl sharing places. I mean tpb has one but I doubt anyone has posted anything there in years.

>>2811389
shine a light on it. See if there is an image.
Also, it should still be under warranty, go talk to creality.

>>2811398
Eh it's okay the screen and cable are $30 on Ali express I guess

>>2811404
or it could be free if you were to just send an email.

>>2811337
Where can i get that lamp?

>>2811467
Amazon B0C16ZNH9Q, though I'm sure there's millions of clones for half the price on Ali.
It's quite wobbly at the base,meaning it wobbles even more at the top. I'll be printing a pla-cf reinforcement for it soon.
It's also not as bright as you'd expect.

>make thing with hexagon pattern to save filament
>It comes out as a Star of David pattern.
Fug.

>>2811107
>people shouldn't be allowed to do X unless the government says so.
Gay

>want to buy thing to attach to my scooter so it can hold the phone
>Remember I have a 3d printer
>Surprised Pikachu face

>>2811492
Thanks anon

>>2811496
a significant portion of all of the common infill patterns do that
gyroid ftw
need a grille: go full manual, and boolean your way to glory

Friendly reminder to always print functional prints in the strongest filament that you have.

A thought that keeps bugging me:
If you want to make soggy biscuits crunchy again you can just put them in a fridge for a while.
As a function of producing refrigeration the air inside is also dried out, this is why vegetable crisper drawers exist: to separate the juicies from the rest of the dry air in the cabinet.

So who has some filament they dont give a shit about and can test what kind of duration gives what kind of effectiveness of moisture reduction?

>>2811594
It doesn't work. Humidity is misleading, you need to consider Relative Humidity, Absolute Humidity, Temperature, Dewpoint, and the way these relate. To keep it simple, your fridge isn't actually that dry, it's just cold. Drying plastics in a manufacturing setting, you usually aim for a dewpoint in the -20C to -50C range. Filament dryers, even inexpensive Chinese ones, are usually pushing at least -25C, with high-end commercial ones advertising -40C. The inside of a fridge generally has a dewpoint in the -10C to 0C range. Dryer than the rest of your house almost certainly, but not capable of drying filament sufficiently. Most filaments will hold somewhere around 0.5-1% water by weight, it's a tiny amount of moisture and it's not easy to remove. A fresh muffin is more like 30% water by weight, putting it in a fridge can drop that very significantly, but it's not going to be able to rid it of that last teeny little 0.5-1% the way a heated dryer can.

I have never worked with printer resin before.

I have some filament prints with recessed lettering that I'd like to fill in with a contrasting color like pic related, and a 500g bottle of sla resin seems far cheaper than buying two part resin and dye separately.

How thin or viscous is sla resin? If I fill a small syringe with resin and squirt it in each letter is the resin going to flow into all the corners of the letters? or if I need to thin it out, what works to thin it without fucking up it curing?

>>2811696
I see.
I knew there would be a bunch of caveats like condensation, habitual door openers etc, but the important one is basic effectiveness.

>>2811703
Just buy epoxy dude.

>>2811720
>just spend $20+ instead of $8 for the exact same thing

kid if you also don't know anything about resin then you dont need to reply

>>2811703
Thick like cheap artificial maple-flavored syrup. It thins considerably with a little heat as plenty of resin printers can attest to. You can prewarm a bottle of resin in a bowl of hot water. Only needs to be ~85F to become quite thin. UV resins are super fucking nice to work with for this kind of stuff. Work indoors and keep the curtains drawn, and you have all the time in the world to spread it, clean it up, fix mistakes, and when you're actually ready you zap it with a UV flashlight and it sets in seconds. I don't know how big the text you're trying to fill is, if it's anything like your picture then most any off the shelf resin will work well. Do keep in mind that ALL UV resins remain UV sensitive forever, most do not hold up well where they are exposed to UV light, they'll yellow and embrittle. Most clearcoat has UV blockers, a coat of cheap clear spraypaint will drastically increase the lifespan of UV resin parts.

>>2811727
>I don't know how big the text you're trying to fill is
roughly 36 point, the prints are already done and it seems like a pointless job to print just the letters in a different filament and press them in. The wording is shallow enough that it's somewhat hard to see exactly what it says at first glance in bad lighting, but I feel like filling them with acrylic paint or something else is going to not hold up in the long haul as much as another plastic would.

>>2811739
You could absolutely get a nice fill on letters than size with normal 3D printing resin. There's a big caveat here, UV resins are brittle and become more brittle over time, while wood likes to expand and contract. I don't think I have to explain much more than that. If the whole thing is sealed up well it'll outlive us all, but if it's not sealed well then the normal degradation of the resin and thermal cycling of the wood will eventually turn it all to shit.

>visit STL warez group
>first thing I see is a Shrek with massive throbbing cock

>>2811770
You can't just say that without posting the stl.

>>2811533
Where's a david star pattern in honeycomb pattern?

>>2811547
Neat.

gel superglue or regular?

>>2811916
Both, they have slightly different jobs, and they're both the same price at the dollar store.

>>2811496
>Be stingy on filament
>Print comes out Jewish.

>>2811903
>honeycomb pattern
no
'significant portion' ie: 5/17
If you must insist on being a noob can you just do it in your own head so nobody else has to suffer you.

>>2811941
but also yes, there is obviously one in the hex pattern >>2811496 posted

>the pattern recognition is weak in this one
>not a noticer, they are

>>2810828
>proprietary
>last release over a year ago
no thanks

>>2811941
>>2811943
>is actually one in the honeycomb
>didnt nootice it while making douchelord tier diorama
I'm such a douchebag in the morning. My bad. Also 6/17

>>2811749
I'm not filling wood, I'm filling already made prints as I said twice. Thanks though.

>>2811948
seems like a needless complication when you could just pour into the cavity then hit it with UV.

>>2811960
That's exactly what he described.

>>2811948
>I'm not filling wood
Sorry, I'm a lazy cunt and like to copy and paste my old replies, I was half-assing it.

>>2811960
yes I will pour straight from the bottle into half inch tall shapes, very wise of you

>>2811960
>exactly what anon said
do you just not know how to read or

Popcorn enjoying bystander reporting in:
How far does UV penetrate UV resin?
Ones with color pigments in them?
Obviously hardening layers of stuff a few hundred microns thick is pretty quick, but what when its several orders of magnitude thicker?

>>2811976
>How far does UV penetrate UV resin?
It varies, but generally not very deep at all, 1.5-3mm by this 2019 study: https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/dmj/35/3/35_2015-402/_article
Other shit I've read suggests the range could be more like <1mm - 5mm, of course just depending on the resin material. Increasing light intensity beyond the threshold needed for curing won't increase penetration depth by an appreciable amount until you reach beyond intensities that are damaging to the print.

>>2811978
noice
It's reassuring to know that when I pull assumptions out of my ass about physical properties that they are pretty much correct without researching.
Also reassuring that people have done some research and know something about the things and can be consulted here.

>>2811979
I should add, that's for final curing, layer thickness when printing is another story. Short version, while it varies between materials, maximum layers heights are usually in the 0.2mm - 0.5mm range for "most" resins on "most" modern mono-LCD MSLA resin printers. Higher layer heights lose fidelity to diffusion, so while it's possible to print thicker layers on a resin printer, they tend to get disproportionately shittier as you increase the layer height. 0.1mm might be as "sharp" as 0.05mm, but 0.2mm might look like you turned the antialiasing up.

>>2811983
i'm also a photography enjoyer, so yep.
Ever seen any data (that you can summarize) on how liquid-state UVfluid refraction compares to other materials?

>>2811984
It's controllable! For specialized shit, there are actually resins available with very specific refractive indexes, and available in a wide range. It's not something I've dealt with before, but I know I've seen resins that actually advertise their RI from as low as 1.2 to as high as 1.75. I've read before that common transparent resins are usually around 1.5, but I don't know how valid that is.

>>2811962
>>2811968
>>2811971
Glad we can come to an agreement, then.

>>2811987
I assume the index changes when its hard as opposed to fluid?

>>2812000
I assume it must, I don't see how it couldn't. I'll bet higher end manufacturers have documented this, how the transparency and refractive index are affected from uncured to fully cured. I'd assume it would be important in optical applications, and resin printing has become huge in optics research now that it's good enough to pump out lens prototypes on the cheap.

>>2812002
Indeed. The aliexpress prescription reading glasses (simple one diopter, plus a bit and some some astig distortion in the other eye, with a custom interpupilary distance - so reading glasses, but to prescription) i have bought for the last few years are very scratch resistant, only the lowest hardness available iirc, extremely light, and are polymer. I'm pretty sure they would be UV cured too. Almost everything in modern photographic optics is. Joining lenses used to be canada balsam.... tree sap, now the same cements are UVpolymers, as are many of the lenses themselves.
So yeah, there must be significant technology available.

>>2811941
>>2811943
>>2811945
Congratulations. I don't even know what you were trying to say.

what's a very small (15*15*15cm or less) cheap 3D printer that's not worthless? I'm an apartmentcuck and even an A1 looks like it would take too much space right now I'm just looking to get into the hobby and print small objects

>>2812169
A1 Mini

>>2812242
yeah I can't seem to find anything smaller and as good as that in the price range. So you'd say that it's not worth it to cheap out even more with something like a Kingroon KP3S 3.0 instead?

>>2812248
Fuck no. Those Kingroons are nice little printers, but there's no comparison between them. The Bambu has far higher build quality, prints considerably faster, and will be significantly easier to use. They make the best printers available for every price-point at which they offer one up to the P1S.

>>2812250
given that the Bambu is 200€ right now I guess it's an easy choice then, thanks for the advice

>got my a1 mini today
>the free kit was the Boat Model Component
>literally just a small windup toy
Kinda disappointed tbqh

>>2812361
You're going to have to elaborate.

>>2812366
iirc every printer from bambu comes with a small kit, a fun bonus to print some parts for and get something cool
store.bambulab.com/collections/hardware-kits
You either get the clock, marble run, engine model, led lamp, wireless mouse or boat
I got the fucking windup toy

>>2812373
noice.
Aside from the bearings I think I have most of this shit just laying around.
Just found myself a print for downtime.

Should I be goncerned about exercising in the same room as a printer printing carbon fiber PLA?

>>2812380
Nope.

>>2812383
Even if it smells?
I want to put the cover back on and run the exhaust, but then the quality of pla degrades rapidly as the printer is too well insulated.

>>2811703
youtube just casually suggested this to me:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2f5lI1R6dg

DAY 7 (?) OF TPU CARNAGE

Much progress today. After switching out the bowden for the direct drive, turns out you need to recalibrate esteps. RTFM and all that

Previous estep: 93mm
Current estep: 375mm (increase of 404%)

Easy estep recalib for anyone interested
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AGysy5gLQs

>>2812487
HURRAH!
Now show us some images of this GREAT SUCCESS