/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2781049
Has anyone printed anything cool lately?

>>2781115

>>2781118
This happened to me after I changed the filament when the first one ran out in my Bambu. Discarded the past print's progress and started over. Anyone know how to solve it?

>>2781122
That is just caused by the nozzle not printing on the part. Skipped steps and huge vibrations were the reason why my print failed since it was a tall and unstable print that had too little time to cool and the printer was too fast.

>>2781126
Also if the nozzle is temporarily blocked it will skip some layers and will again print in the air and not the print.

>>2781126
>>2781127
It would be nice if the Bambu could somehow automatically switch filaments when one runs out like it's supposed to. Also think the 'sparse infill density can be set to below 10, because the models printed are already really strong.

>>2781134
Anon i am retarded. Your issue is different from mine. If i understand it correctly the lapse in your print was because of missing filament. If that is the case you can measure how tall your print is or and tell your printer to start again but from that height. I dont know how do to that on a Bambu but here is a guide that covers that topic: https://www.instructables.com/continue-failed-3d-print/

>>2781137
Much appreciated I'll save the guide for when the filament runs out again.

>>2781049
I need a filament that is extremely stiff and not so much tough. PACF seems to have creep. PLA cant moderate temps.
Anyone have experience with PC CF?

>>2781145
CF+PLA is about as rigid as it gets for filaments. CF+PC is a little less rigid, but very strong, with great temperature resistance. While PC doesn't necessarily "creep" less than PLA, CF reinforcement makes all the difference in that regard. It's also expensive and can be a massive bitch to print. The cheap Chinese shit is especially bad, don't waste $50 on a Chinese roll of CF+PC, instead empty your entire wallet for some CarbonX PC or CarbonX EZPC. Shit's expensive, but you get what you pay for.

It's been two years since X1C released. How do we still have no competitor to catch up?
>X1C
Proprietary to the core.
>5m pro
Dumb hotend.
>MK4
Unable to print ABS/ASA ootb.
>K1
Dumb roof. In general a P1S, but more flimsy.
>Magneto X
Nowhere to be seen.
>J1s
Dumb roof. Luban.
>QiDi anything
Stone age firmware.
>KLP1
Dumb roof. Dumbest interface location yet.
>Flying Bear R2
No roof?! Stone age features.
>Voron
Good luck to any beginner.

I'd be half as mad if it would be just me being unhappy with them all, but dear god it's the same shit all over anytime someone asks "Hey anon, can you recommend me a good 3d printer?". It's all so tiresome.

>>2781164
The mindset of a large portion of the 3D printing community that encourages eating shit under the guise of """tinkering""" has ensured that nobody is capable of producing products that are both innovative and good quality.

>>2781167
And yet half of these machines don't even allow tinkering. But yeah, Joseph is probably the worst offender in that regard.
>Oh you just bought a 900€ machine you had to assemble yourself? Well buying and adding a camera is part of the fun!

>>2781171
They also do
>Not being able to run any software that isn't from us is also part of the fun.
Like holy fuck, currently nothing really supports xl that isnt made by Prusa. And on top of that they are slow as fuck when it comes to firmware improvements.

>>2781049
i think this collage is worse than the old collages, what's the technical change?

None of my prints are very nice but they are good enough for who they're for.

I found around 1.5 liters of long expired cheap resin I have no idea what to do with. It prints, kinda, 15 seconds exposure time on a non-mono printer (should be better on a monochrome), the two printers I have aren't particularly occupied anyway so they can take their time.

>>2781265
I rewrite the script from scratch on a regular basis to try different ways of doing it. It's never good, it's never fast, but it's a fun exercise. The last one was used treemaps and squarify. This one is tile based and dynamically crops and resizes images. It's shitty, but it's fun and easy to screw around with.

does this look like it would hold a gallon of milk while screwed inside the door of an american refrigerator? could making walls and floors thicker and using less infill be stronger?

>>2781118
at least the spaghetti stayed on the plate instead of entombing hotend. what was it supposed to be?

>>2781164
so then, is the consensus is to buy more ender 3's instead of new printer xyz?

>>2781361
Add fillets to all interior corners, biggest you can fit. Makes a world of difference. Many walls, many top and bottom layers, lots of infill.

>>2781364
if fillet = corner triangle, then weve got that. changed walls, top and bottom to 1.2mm w/ 5 layers. not sure exactly how that will impact the final product but it added 60g of material , so it must be strong. infill is currently 15% to try and keep this around 24 hrs to print. would it be better to increase infill and make more holes?

>>2781391
>corner triangle
Divides the stress, you want to distribute the stress across a curve. Don't add more holes, the holes aren't helping anything. If that print is gonna take you 24hrs, you should instead dedicate a few hours to learning how to print faster and tuning your printer accordingly. Even an Ender 3 can print a 1-gallon cube (156mm cube) with 2 walls 10% infill in 24hrs with ease. That screenshot you showed is not a 24hr print, not even close.

Can I use (spray) shellac on painted 3D prints or is it only for wood?

>>2781398
Keep in mind it's in an alcohol carrier but should be okay. Won't be as strong as polly so I'm not sure why you'd use it unless you're looking for something nontoxic.

>>2781399
I don't plan on handling the print much
It dries fast
It doesn't smell as bad when sprayed
I don't care about this print that much
And I have it on hand

>>2781395
thanks for the breakdown, looks like i've got chamfered corners on the inside. idk about any gallon cube benchmark but cura has been accurate so far, even concentric and lightning infill are over 24hr.

>>2781419
>0.28mm layer height
Yeah you need to tune nigga, your printer can go MUCH faster. Your settings are slow AF.

Just did my first print on a Jupiter SE. It didn't stick to the plate so the print was on the film. I don't even know where to begin with what went wrong.

>>2781441
Try the resin printing general >>>/tg/3dpg

>>2781361
>screwed inside the door of a refrigerator
I'm more concerned about that part desu.
Also this is not a piece of metal. You don't need to save weight. Functional 3D prints need to be chunky. What >>2781364 said

Hello everyone, I am new to the DIY board and relatively new to 3D printing. I have this weird problem and I don'tknow how to fix it.

I am using the Mars 4 DLP for my very first 3D printer. I was leveling the plate and setting the Z 0 like it said in the waiver that was sent with it.
Now at every print when the build plaze lowers into the resin vat it makes a really bad sound followed by that beeping it does when it's all the way down. The sound is like a creaking/crushing sound and I think it is because it works against too much strain.
Now I wanted to see how my Z 0 is looking and inserted the paper and hit the home button, the plate wedged the paper tightly as suspected. I then moved it up 0,2 mm and set the z=0. It gave me the "This reset the z-zero position, continue?" Message and I hit "confirm"
Now the problem is, when I hit the home button again it just wedges the paper in again. Why doesn't it take the input?

The prints come out good, everything sticks to the build plate and all but this initial sound when printing sounds like ass

>>2781361
imo this will break. There's too much tension and your layer lines are perpendicular to the tensile force. You can keep the part as is and design another part that will hold it up from underneath in compression. Or, you can do what I usually do which is to split the part into 5 pieces, give them holes, and print them all flat. Then I fasten them together with machine screws. That way your layer lines are always oriented in the direction of the force. You could do both too since people will probably dunk the fucking gallon in there when they're in a hurry.

>>2781361
>so then, is the consensus is to buy more ender 3's instead of new printer xyz?
More Ender 3s is always the answer. Jokes aside, my current answer basically depends
>you're fine with Apple-esque ecosystem
Bambu X1C or P1S
>you're not
Buy a used machine and spend the savings on tinkering.

Albeit i gotta admit, after seeing it in action, the KP3S pro v2 is a near perfect machine for it's price if you're just doing smaller PLA/PETG parts. Also Flashforge seems to have opened up their Klipper firmware which seems like a good direction when looking for a direct X1C alternative.

>>2781419
Some of the orange could be wire. Spilling a gallon of milk is pretty unpleasant, so maybe you shouldn't be a minimalist.

Bros.. I took the cnc milled bed pill.

>>2781620
That's nice. Shows us how flat it is across a wide temperature range.

>>2781622
I will in a month or two once Im done building the ZeroG beta Enclosure, and then migrating all parts to the new frame and doing the mercury 1.1 and hydra mod. There is no way im mounting this expensive bed in a way that doesn't let it expand and contract. Also going to get picrel for building the new frame. Autism2.

>>2781624
Awesome, good luck anon, sounds like fun!

>>2781620
>>2781624
Good stuff, Hans. Please do post results.

This 3D printing stuff is amazing you can print life sized butts in 1-2 spools. Probably can do a full body with just 5-6, which will only cost ~100$. Definitely cheaper than a date.

>>2781361
PSU BRACKET?
thats how i got into 3d printing ;)

>>2781544
Sounds like it's pushing the build plate too far down and the stepper motor is skipping steps. Though that would produce too much force and ruin the LCD if the stepper drive current is high enough. I imagine those printers use a limit switch, my cheap anycubic mono has a photointerrupter and a piece of metal that breaks the beam when the build plate moves down. Ensure it's still plugged in and working, using a multimeter to troubleshoot it if required.

https://youtu.be/hcMxEkVvIdE?t=190

How can I make my ender3 v1 print this fast?

random interesting materials
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5QxoaJoOoD

>>2781850
is that poop?

>>2781948
Bonbon té bowls. A Haitian delicacy.

>>2781831
forcing a bedslinger to print this fast would cause tectonic shifts and thousands injured due to earthquakes that ensue
but worse than that
you'll have to use pla

>>2781361
make the walls a lot higher and fill in the holes or else the milk is just going to spill all over the place

Anycubic is having a sale and I'm thing of getting my first resin printer. I have a Ender 3 but for miniatures it's not great.

Is there anything I should think of? I work at an Airport, so gloves are not an issue for me.
Do I need a respirator for the basic resin if I have a Window next to the printer and a fan pushing air while using it?

>>2782033
Checked

>>2782033
Checked. Can’t believe I didn’t think of that.

>>2781767
I’ve got the psu bracket on my sd card and psu sitting on table. Needed a milk bracket first.

>>2781620
>muh tolerances

>>2781605
Have not heard of K3PS, will look into it. Hard to beat the open box prices for Enders on eBay tho.

>>2781603
Good idea. It’s definitely not strong enough as is. The holes were to save filament which obviously does more harm than good for this design. Might just make it out of wood.

>>2781530
Short screws and some adhesive probably wouldn’t hurt, there’s no plumbing in the doors.

>>2781428
Tune how? Like increase sprint speed?


Printed a busty anime figure on dynamic settings. How much better is .12 layer height? Or is this pretty much as good as it gets on an ender 3?

>>2782072
>Do I need a respirator for the basic resin if I have a Window next to the printer and a fan pushing air while using it?

You need a fume hood, don't fuck around with resin

>>2782125
I'm not a giant fan of figurine in the first place, would you say it's not worth the buy in and just to buy figurines on Etsy or whatever? I play to print maybe a couple a year.

>>2782125
HEPA air filtration, P100 respirator, shoulder-length gloves, face shield, etc. Keep that shit off your skin and out of your lungs.

>>2782129
If you aren't a fan of figures/models and painting them I don't see the point in buying a resin printer

>>2782072
Spending $180 for a wash station and a gallon of IPA is a massive waste of money when you're starting out. That's shit you buy because you get into it, not from day 1.
$1 worth of tupperware, $15 for a UV spotlight and shitty little solar powered turntable, $5 for a gallon of 91% Isopropyl or $10 for a gallon of Simple Green.

>>2782133
Mostly board game stuff. Same reason why I want a simple woodcutting/engraving laser.
For example, this is sold at 30-40$. So what I'm doing instead is printing meeple versions of that since meeples turn out really good in Filament 3D printing.

>>2782145
Whatever you decide put a lot of research into keeping yourself safe

>>2782148
Yeah, I have a spare room that I can close of, open a window with a fan in it to purge the air out. But spending 500$ for a printer and equipement to make 30-40$ worth of miniatures a year is not really worth it I think.

what printer should i get around $1000

>>2782168
le gazooper prusa 4

great printer actually

>>2782179
nah save a couple hundred more and just get a bambu x1c

>>2782168
Don't listen to >>2782179 he is a fucking moron. Get a P1S with the AMS instead for $1000 and enjoy enclosed multimaterial printing. Fuck Josef Prusa. Fuck Prusa fanbois.

>>2782192
what's wrong with prusa?

>>2782194
Quality wise prusa are good, for PLA and PETG printing. You can't print ASA and ABS with it. And it costs twice as much as it should. Why the fuck would someone spend that much on a printer that can't even print ABS or ASA? It's retarded.

>>2782196
you can't print abs and asa because they don't come with an enclosure? or is there some other reason

>>2782203
Because printing in an ambient temperature above 35c voids the warranty

>>2782168
if you only need a small one, ratrig vcore3.1
if you need a large one, do some overtime and get a ratrig vcore3.1 500mm3

>>2781049
Am i retarded or is it normal for aluminum profiles to cost less than the brackets required to mount them? On small scale printers ~300mm per extrusion. I am paying 14,16€ for the extrusions and 4,90€ + 5,69€ + 3,37€ + 5,48€ (19.44€) for all the brackets, screws and nuts.

>>2782223
dont be a retard. just do blind joints.

>>2782203
>>2782205
They recommend you reprint all the printed components of the printer in better material. If you don't, the stock components will warp/deform/melt. For ABS or ASA, a chamber temp of 40C is the bare minimum, >60C is considerably better. Printing ABS/ASA will void your warranty because of these chamber temps.

>>2782224
Don't i still need some sort of bracket so i can make the frame perfectly square? What if one blind joint is off by 0.2 degrees and makes the quality worse? In that case could i not screw one bracket in harder to offset that misalignment? Also note my only tools are screwdrivers and a cordless drill.

>>2782231
You'll need to thread or order pre cut and threaded profiles. Ideally you have bought a granite flat reference (almost nobody has this) surface and a machinist square (only autists spend cash on this). But lets say you don't have these, you use a good carpenter square and just measure and tighten and loosen and fix & shim it 'till it's gucci good. A 0.2 degree error on a small printer isn't the end of the world and well within the bounds of what the firmware skew correction can handle. Just fork up the $5 and get the calibration cauliflower from vez3d. And after that you can again, just shim it. Even normal paper works to shim with, but perhaps it's better with bbq aluminium boxes cut to pieces.

>>2782235
I will definitely make my own threads and do blind joints next time i am working with aluminum. Sadly i dont have a vice or any other way to hold the profiles in place and i dont want to half-ass it because i have seen enough chinks be decapitated because their vice failed. Plus the cost of a vice and of an tap is more than i am paying for the brackets.
>fix & shim it 'till it's gucci good
Shims look like a good idea but how do they hold up against a lot of vibration? I got overpowered motors for the printer and its basically a Voron0 on public benefits.
>well within the bounds of what the firmware skew correction
Yes i know that but wont a slightly offset joint be damaged because of vibration or am i underestimating how strong metal is?

I really have to get a workshop going. Paying for all these workarounds is kinda embarrassing.

>>2782241
Also why do the ratrigs use brackets but no blind joints? Kinda seems like a no-brainier to use them now.

>>2782241
>Sadly i dont have a vice
Just start viewing tools an an investment. Even the weak vices will do when threading aluminium by hand, it's turn 2 turns cw, back off half a turn to break any chips and keep going.
>but how do they hold up against a lot of vibration?
Should not make a diffrence if you tourqued your screws correctly.
>Yes i know that but wont a slightly offset joint be damaged because of vibration or am i underestimating how strong metal is?
I wouldn't worry about it, again, you complained that the brackets cost more than the extrusions, if the joint is the extrusion and it somehow got damaged, just replace it? If you're running a fucking speed competition and racing be prepared to pay some.
>I really have to get a workshop going. Paying for all these workarounds is kinda embarrassing.
Tools are an investment, yes.

Anyone have a good idea for a lil intro project to 3d printers? preferably something that needs to be assembled or has multiple parts.

>>2782242
If you're gonna custom, just B.E.E. yourself.

>>2782255
Make a bracket of the correct dimensions. Custom brackets are some of the most useful things you can print.

Thank you to whoever recommended the PEI bed 2 threads ago. Holy shit it's like a cheat code. I can't believe I fucked around with glass for so long.

>>2782311
might have been me, its new to me too

>>2782194
Beyond the fact that prusa is incredibly full of himself these days, his shit does the exact same report home shit that people don't like about Bambu. At least with prusa you kind of know where the information is going, but I don't want it going anywhere. Especially not for the cost of prusa shit.

>>2782371
You know Prusa won't judge you because he also prints dragon dildos

>>2782113
>nice nipple
Treat that lady to some sandpaper, anon.

>>2782231
>>2782235
Do you have a milled plate? If yes, use that. Unless your shop screwed you over, it'll be better than anything in a usual household.

>>2782328
I still chukle over that big dick extruder.

>>2782149
>open a window with a fan in it to purge the air out.
This is nearly enough. Ideally you have a shroud over the printer and an inline fan that vents out the window. Bonus is that inline fan can also be used in a spray booth.

>>2781164
>Magneto X
>Nowhere to be seen.
At least, i am not the only one waiting for this thing. Dunno when their preorders actually opened for anyone, but i am staying positive. Linear motors are obviously the show runner, but damn, i can't wait to get my hands onto this monstrosity of a printhead, which seems to be closest of any printhead to rule them all, i've seen yet.

>>2782442
>big dick extruder.
the heater being so close to the extruder frame/motor was a major issue. After the first time it skipped during a print I started adding fans and heatsinks, problem is that a radial fan sucks ass at driving air through those radial heatsink vanes.. so everyting is heavy, puts center of gravity too far out, and generaly sucks at air.
So I put a bambu nozzle on it and waited for a 24V PSu to arrive... as soon as it did i installed it , and a newly soldered voltage reducer for the inductive sensors....and then put 24V across all three 5V sensor inputs by getting input and output sides of the bodged-board wrong. Like a dickhead.
No smoke was released, but the tiny click sound was close enough to a pop sound for me to immediately know i fucked up.
So now I'm waiting for a new board.
Also; found a ?better? heatsink. But with the less retarded bambu heatblock not being wedged up the extruders ass hopefully i can just omit the heatsink entirely.

>>2782491
That's a bedslinger? I'd look into somehow having the guide rods on either side of the hot end, instead of one atop the other. Or just put that effort into building a coreXY or crossed-gantry printer instead.

Also maybe you could have mounted the extruder stepper hard against the guide rod bearing block, can't imagine it gets that hot if it has a normal amount of current through it for an extruder. But maybe it's bad in an enclosure.

>>2782506
>guide rods on either side of the hot end, instead of one atop the other.
nah mayne
Its an i3, a prebuilt rolled-steel frame type of i3, changing the x train would be a colossal effort, not happening
>corexy
My other machine is a corexy...build in progress...
Once i get the pesky i3 set up so it survives in an enclosure i'll start on the corexy again
But i need to get the i3 off my bench first, and i keep getting distracted

>>2782328
Anon your bed adhesion and warping? You should up the bed temp a bit.

Any recommendations for using ASA? I have a bed slinger that can hotend up to 300C (~250C for ASA) and have the spool in the mail. Bought it because my friend wants custom cell mounts for his cars and I didn't want pla+ to soften like the soft skull of a baby locked in the car of a walmart parking lot in the middle of summer.

>>2782557
Use enclosure, fumes can give you cancer.

>>2782506
>I'd look into somehow having the guide rods on either side of the hot end, instead of one atop the other
You don't have a fucking clue what you're talking about I see.

>>2782562
>fumes can give you cancer.

[Citation Needed]

>inb4 GoOoOoOgLe It

>>2782635
>Particle emissions from fused deposition modeling 3D printers: Evaluation and meta-analysis
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0048969718343626?via%3Dihub
>The particles and VOCs released during 3D printing have the potential to be inhaled by 3D printer users.
>Inhaled ultrafine particles have been linked to a variety of health effects including increased oxidative stress, inflammation, cardiovascular effects and cytotoxicity (Madl and Pinkerton, 2009; Stefaniak et al., 2017).
>Because of their small size, ultrafine particles penetrate deeper into the respiratory system than larger particles and may be harder to clear from the body (Bierkandt et al., 2018).
>In addition, VOCs may contribute to the development of asthma, allergies, obstructive pulmonary disease and lung cancer with 1,3-butadiene classified as carcinogenic to humans (Gałęzowska et al., 2016; IRIS, 2002; Lee et al., 2006).
>These VOCs may adsorb to the surface of particles and travel with them through the respiratory tract (Roberts et al., 2018).

>>2782635
The S in ABS and ASA is "styrene"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Styrene#Health_effects

>>2782145
It depends on your collection and how much you want to enhance. FDM are perfectly good for 25mm miniatures for board games. The quality is great for monsters or scenery as well. They are merely passable as PCs, better than nothing nowhere near resin tier. FDM isn't up to a warhammer tabletop.

However the myriad of board games that could benefit that don't even require the 25mm figure quality means a lot more ROI on your investment. 51st state ammo and bulldozers, actual role meeples for Lords of Waterdeep, any number of 1st player markers, coin upgrades for everything and the list goes on. Outside of sheer component upgrade there are card boxes, organization trays, player management systems - hell for Village a single two piece sleeve for management and storage of the market tiles stack is invaluable even if there is little else that needs upgrade.

And all that is not even considering everything you can do or fix or dress up outside of the actual games, game room props, fixtures or even whole games can be printed. And that's still only in the very small segment of "boardgames".

In short you are only limited by your collection and your own imagination.

>>2782113
this would benefit immensely from printing in abs and smoothing

>>2782449
>Ideally you have a shroud
much like sticking a fan in the corner of a cardboard box for a "paint booth" a small amount of pressure away from the machine is plenty to avoid exposure when you're spending 9 hours with your face in the printer while printing dangerous cancerous fumes because honestly if you're you're not literally huffing at the nozzle you aren't going to have any ill effects.

>>2782543
yeah, i did
iirc in this case i just forgot to clean it after leaning my hand on it

also:
looks like clay printing is becoming mainstream
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4nqRARoVfk

>>2782637
>>2782640

Thanks for the info.

>>2782693
Next time google it retard

>>2782694

There's a reason people cite their sources on papers they write. I can google and read on a different site than what anon got their claims.

So, no, I won't google it.

>>2782695
>No I want other people to google things for me because I don't have critical thinking skills

>>2782697
You're narrow minded.

>>2782698
You're feeble-minded.

>>2782717
>>2782698
both of you are fucking dumb

>>2782719
Takes one to know one.

Who's the best petg?

>>2782739
bambu lab or atomic depending on if you have a chinese spyware installation at home.

Is it possible for the z-stepper to decalibrate?
I feel like there's something wrong, the first layer seems like it could be even a bit lower but, as more layers are added, the nozzle eventually starts hitting the print. I haven't looked into it too closely but I think it's going up less than a layer height per layer, causing the eventual hits.
It doesn't take long for it to start btw, maybe some 50 layers (0.12mm height) or so.

>>2782771
check your config
in klipper that would be:
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 8
full_steps_per_rotation: 200
(obviously those are my settings)

assuming your Z is leadscrew driven: check that your Zaxis motor is connected to the leadscrew properly - by releasing it and reseating the grub screws

Its also possible your nema motors wires run past a big enough EM source to cause interference, twisting the wire pairs usually overcomes this.
https://youtu.be/Ta5rP8YcYaI?t=134

Is there a decent 3d scanner for under $500 yet? Per my research there does not seem to be. I want to scan small automotive interior parts for 3d printing. Have heard good things about the Einstar but thats around $1000.

>>2782783
Damn, EM interference is wild.
Thanks for the reply anon, I'll double-check my klipper configs and tighten then Z leadscrew. I hope to god it isn't EM shenanigans.

>>2782822
np
it still sounds mostly like your leadscrews arent secured to the nemas properly, but theres also the possibility that your vref may be low, and/or you have some sticky sectipons on youtr leadscrews, and that allowing an intermittent subtle step skip
I had all sorts of weird stuff going on with my Y axis, turned out to be a failing driver... so you never know till you prod things.

>>2782822
in case its not obvious, make sure one grub screw on the leadscrew connector is tightened directly perpendicualr to the flat section on the nema axle.
Like align it, and then tighten it slowly as you wiggle the connector to make sure when you give it the final torque that its as close to perfectly perpendicular to the axle's flat section as you can get it. The tighten the grub thats on the rounded side of the axle.
Ideally the grubs should be tight enough to actually leave marks on the axle, but that often results in stripping the head out of the grub, or your allen key, so as tight as possible without stripping anyhting.

>>2782822
the grubs holding the leadscrew need to be tight too, but they tend to gouge onto the leadscrew thread, which is fine, and makes them easier to get a good non-slip attachment.

>>2782840
Went there, cleaned the z-steppers from debris, retigthened the grubs, lubed up the screw, and even retightened other screws around the printer.
If this ain't it, then it's EM magic and I'm fucked.

FUCK TPU IT'S SLOW AS SHIT!!!

>>2782946
are your Z axies belted together? or have 2 independent Z motors? Or share the same driver for 2 motors?
In any case; check your driver vref for them

>>2782131
Holy shit what

>>2782967
Resin is bad. It gets worse with repeated exposure, so each time you come in contact with it the effects may be worse than the last time. Here, have the MSDS copypasta:

>Let's check out some MSDS sheets and manufacturers recommendations:
>H315 Causes skin irritation
>H317 May cause an allergic skin reaction.
>H320 Causes eye irritation.
>P333+P313 If skin irritation or rash occurs: Seek medical attention
>P337+P313 If eye irritation persists: Seek medical attention
>Inhalation: Remove to fresh air, seek medical attention
>Skin contact: Wash with plenty of soap and water, seek medical attention
>Avoid contact
>Use with adequate ventilation
>Store in a cool (29-90°F/-1.7-32.2°C), well ventilated location
>Short-term exposure to fumes can result in dizziness, headaches, and throat irritation.
>Uncured liquid resin can irritate bare skin and can cause a rash called contact dermatitis.
>Long term exposure can increase sensitivity and increase the severity of reaction.
>Long-term risks may include menstrual problems, altered sexual behavior or fertility, and damage to unborn children during pregnancy.
>contact with resin [...] the effects aren’t immediate
>liquid UV resin easily penetrates through the skin
>headaches and some respiratory problems, including swelling airways, trouble breathing, as well as pain and irritation in your airways.
>Your eyes could also be affected by vapors resulting in them being watery, puffy, and you could also experience a burning sensation.
>pimples, wheals, redness, pain, burning or itching sensations, and overall extensive inflammatory reactions.
>The damage from repeated exposure to UV resin is irreversible, and your skin and body will forever be sensitive to the substance

>Use your resin printer responsibly, wear gloves, wear goggles, wear a respirator, work in a well-ventilated environment.
>Allergic responses to resin develop slowly over time, each successive exposure is a little worse than the last.

>>2781361
>>2781419

>does this look like it would hold a gallon of milk

No. Because you are using design principles for homogenous solid materials when you should be treating 3d prints like they are anisotropic composites.

What I mean by that is all of the strength in a print is parallel to the layers, very little of the strength is in the vertical direction. Split the part up into three pieces, the two sides and the middle. Print the two angled sides flat so they are parallel to the layers. Print the middle on it's side. Design some kind of slotting system to fit the parts together like laser cut wood and then glue everything together. I would also use circular reinforcement grommets on the screw holes to prevent splitting along the layer lines.

does anyone have one of these bought and feeling like uploading them? not feeling like paying 5 bucks for this jew
https://vector3d.shop/products/calilantern-calibration
https://vector3d.shop/products/califlower-calibration

>>2783007
I can't believe we don't have private trackers for STLs yet.

>>2783009
well there is materialize.is but it requires an invite

>>2781049
Based voronoids

>>2783007
>I'm entitled to stuff
How do you see your screen with a nose that large?

>>2783022
>Literally troon in the name
Bloody Hell

>>2783028
do you ever torrent? no? never have? never in your life? every single bit of otherwise paid digital content obtained through purchasing?
who said im entitled you turbonigger? i asked if someone has it and is willing to share, because i dont care about buying it.

>>2783050
You're not asking for niche OC figurines, but files available by a Google search. Not even Yandex needed. Why are you getting mad for being rightfully mocked?

>>2783053
these arent hosted anywhere you stupid nigger

>>2781361
I would think about orientations here. Your diagonal supports have a lot of tension. I would print it endplate side down, which is annoying because you have the far endplate way up there and needs to be rethought.

You could print diagonal down and have good tensile on the diagonal but a little worse strength on the floor that supports the milk container. That would not need supports, and might still have good integrity.

Even in structural prints you can get away with 3 walls and 0-10% infil. Lines or cubic infill is what I would recommend. But I've made structural parts that are hollow other than a little bit of lightning infil to support the top layer as it prints.

>>2783053
come on then you stupid fucking cunt. big mouth talking shit behind your computer screen, just to stir up some shit because your retard low life existence has nothing else going on for it. show me the exact files which are a google result away you fucking spastic. mr google expert. kill yourself you waste of oxygen and a waste of taxpayers $. fucking pathetic loser making me sick to my stomach thinking that a retard like you walks the earth as freely as me and goes to vote with same rights as the rest of us. you need to be chained up working a line in a sweatshop you cock breath faggot fucking degenerate

>>2783073
Wow, what a little faggot you are. I have both the Califlower and Calilantern, and was going to upload them for you before reading your post.

>>2783073
Holy shit lmao

>>2783108
no-no, what do you mean by uploading them? i thought they were a google search away you ugly dirty nigger

>>2783119
I didn't say that, someone else did you retarded little faggot. He's probably right though.

Is gridfinity actually good or nah?

>>2783136
It's great for what it is, but what it is is a mostly-useless gimmick. Unless you already have something specifically that makes you say, "oh shit, gridfinity would be PERFECT for this!" don't waste your time. If you think you'll keep your desk organized by turning 30% of it into a pile of plastic with special holes for your special tools, think again. Want to organize a drawer? Why not sacrifice half the storage space to shitloads of plastic that'll cradle each item delicately? For some cases, some tools/parts, certain places, there's nothing wrong with gridfinity. Just don't fall down the meme-hole and print 10kg worth of organizing bullshit that takes up too much space and won't actually motivate you to put tools and parts away where they belong.

Should i use flexible or stiff couplings? I have two motors on opposing sides driving the bed up and down and have i heard that flexible couplings help with synchronization but i am kinda skeptical. The lead screws are attached on top via bearings to the frame so they don't bounce around regardless of what kind of coupling i use.

>>2783154
This opinion is wrong and false, the writer of this opinion is not very well educated in work related and worldly matters. If you have lots of small things, and you know and remember each one, then the many little boxes become a great necessity. Only if you have a small life, a simple life, with no complexity one may scoff as these gridfinity things. Otherwise its best to remain silent and listen to the big men.

>>2783164
Lol no

>>2783022
If I can get a troodon (sad its not actually troondon) voron 2.4 for $600 on aliexpress why spend $1200 and 30 god damn hours on an LDO kit?

>>2783167
Yes, be silent, listen, study, watch, and learn. Do not comment with your non smart ways of thinking. If you do, the jews win.

>>2781134
>if the Bambu could somehow automatically switch filaments
so in theory, I've heard, that if your filaments are set to the same thing (both red bambu brand matte PLA) in two AMS slots you can check a box to have it carry over. I have not been able to get it to work.

>>2781122
I have run out of filament several times in the AMS in a slot. The print continuation is flawless in my experience. It happens one of two ways, in a spool where the filament isn't attached to the roll it just uses it until it's not sensed somewhere at or past the AMS switcher, not sure but there is just an empty spool and empty tower. The error is out of filament. The other way with the filament attached to the roll and you get a spool error can't advance see if it's checked. In which case you just pull out the filament and start another one. I've even switched rolls when a bad roll kept fucking up a print (breaking on retraction or being too heavy/warped to start feeding are PERPETUAL problems). As long as the AMS tower isn't engaged for that filament you can just yank it out from the tower, shove something new in and it should feed, retract and go into waiting mode. In addition to filament out I've had successful resumption of prints from power outage.

You can also cut a filament between the spool and tower during printing and watch it go through the ran out of filament sequence. Just, ah don't feed any short segments of filament, the just wind up in the tubes.

Anyway, in any case and tl;dr what your actual problem probably is is something different. To wit, the ERROR messages, OKAY boxes, CONTINUE screens, RESUME options and (pause) (play) buttons are redundant and confusing as FUCK, especially if you ALSO have a mobile device monitoring the print. It is much more likely you chose to restart the print thinking you were just resuming than that the bambu shat itself.

>>2783136
no

>>2783159
flexible, it will isolate from the frame and no reason not to if you can

>>2783136
No. Just have trays with lids like any other screw drawer.

Is this just because the heat break or the nozzle may not be completely flush?

>>2783136
jesus do people really do this lol. is this what the never ending horizon of 3d printing has led us?
i just wash out the plastic food containers they used to give me my chinese meal i got on friday nights for oranising things in the top drawer of my little roller.
imagine printing this shit out lmfao. what does it take like an hour fora little box? its just for internet points right?

>>2783200
>so in theory, I've heard, that if your filaments are set to the same thing (both red bambu brand matte PLA) in two AMS slots you can check a box to have it carry over. I have not been able to get it to work.

I did get it to work, they just have to be the same type, I personally just use the generic filament profiles. But it has to be PLA to PLA and ABS to ABS. There is also a second option of populating the slot that is empty with a new roll. If you dont have the RFID reader thing for it ,the printer just assumes you changed it with a similar type.

>>2783232
no, you want a small gap between the nozzle and the heat *block*
>pic related

did you happen to tighten it after heating up?

>>2783232
Yup, looks like a leak. Your heatbreak and nozzle need to be tightened together within the block. Neither should be flush with or tightened to the block itself.

>>2783246
>>2783246

Its from a guy who is selling his whole tool head assembly. I am still waiting for a reply but it looks like he cleaned it again and it looks usable. He also mentioned that his new assembly also leaked so i assume its user error.
I am extremely tempted to buy it since the stepper motor alone costs more then what the is telling the tool head for.

The last 3D printer I purchased and operated was a Prusa mini near the release date.
What has changed since then? Anything significant or has the hobby stagnated?

I don't understand stringing.

To give context
>Spend all day on calibration towers, temp flow, retraction etc
>Still little spider webs

>>2783286
Correct. Nobody did anything since you last paid attention with Linden B. Johnson was President.

>>2783309
Well sounds like the same retardo problems going on like
>>2783308

>>2783073

>>2783311
Yes, but the print is single layer, no infil, no support and gravity defying at 80mm/s.

>>2783154
Based hardworking aristocrat.

>>2783169
Kek, the whole thing you're shilling for made by a turbo heeb.

>>2783169
Gridfinity was literally invented by a jew. Your argument is beyond dumb.

>>2782974
or he could just make a shelf instead of a bucket

>>2783306
have you never eaten a grilled cheese or pizza?

>>2783306
Too hot or not retracting enough in time.

>>2781829
Thanks, anon. I found out what's the problem, Elegoo's leveling doesn't work how it seems like it does. The z=0 button is for something else it seems, the leveling process is just loosening the screws of the build plate, letting the thing go down on the paper and fastening them again.
I installed a new FEP that seems to be thicker than the previous, a regular piece of paper doesn't do it to adjust it aand it always wanted to go deeper than it could.
Now I am using this paper kids use for arts and crafts, you know, that thick one that you get in different colors.
Worked really well, the sound is now gone.

Should I switch from Cura to Orca? I want scarf joints.

>>2783573
Orca has a much better interface than Cura. Both are good slicers under the hood, but orca seems to have more active development. Try it.

i get constant issues on freecad where it says stupid shit like "03:19:10 <Exception> Geometry2d.cpp(933): Two points are coincident" whenever i try to turn the sketch into a revolution
theres no consistent reason why it does this and its making me lose hours of work because i have to redo my sketches each time it happens trying to figure out what fucking stupid point is causing the erro r

>>2783588
Is there a dedicated method for closing a sketch, as opposed to just drawing the line back to the start?

Hey new to printing.
I ordered the Bambu mini a week ago without AMS, because it seems a bit too tacky for the price they demand.
But what's the point of the AMS? Isn't it just a roll holder?
Couldn't I just print my own AMS or just use 4 paper towel holders?
Or have they put in some software lock that you can't use multi-material printing if you don't have the official AMS™ system?

>>2783589
i dont think thats the issue, it would give me an error saying the line isnt closed

>>2783590
>Couldn't I just print my own AMS or just use 4 paper towel holders?
The hardware behind the AMS is bowden extruder for each spool of wire, and if I recall there's a filament cutting actuator after the filament paths combine that allows the printer to avoid trying to pull the lump of formerly molten filament back up the direct extruder and through the PTFE tubes. Not sure if anyone has made a decent clone of that yet. I'm also not sure how easy it is to make 3rd party hardware compatible with a Bambu printer like this, with any luck it's just the ports for 4 stepper motors and the actuator, but maybe it's just a I2S line or some shit for multiplexing multiple steppers that aren't ever needed at the same time. IIRC Creality will be releasing an AMS equivalent soon, maybe wait to see what they've done with that.

>>2783590
I have one and don't make good use of it, probably really nice for anyone that does multi-colour/material with a bunch of filament changes.
You could do it manually by babysitting the printer and changing the filament as required but that would get pretty tedious.

>>2783595
Can you set the printer to stop when it's supposed to switch to a new material, so you could do it manually?
I wouldn't mind doing it manually a couple of times, I just need to optimize the design for it, like for example just writing something on the print in another material.

>>2783588
has anyone thought of a solution, please i've wasted a fucking hour so far nothing is working and i just want help

>>2783588
I know it sounds silly but have you tried recomputing/recalculating (don't remember the exact term now) your sketch

>>2783600
yea

>>2783596
>Can you set the printer to stop when it's supposed to switch to a new material
I'm sure you can, I've done different colour/text emblems on top of something and it would be no real hassle to do it without an ams but it's not hard to rack up dozens of filament changes depending on the design, still possible to do it manually but it'll be no fun.

>>2783600
i think i figured it out, but i really hate whatever retard thought it was a good idea to implement this into freecad
basically it just doesnt allow you to have the sketch touching the Y axis for no fucking reason, so i had to put a gap inbetween the edge of the sketch and the axis, leaving a stupid fucking hole, which i had to fix by creating a pad that fills it
if you have a better solution i'm still open to it
also, whatever fucking retard updates this program keeps changing the layout of shit for no real reason making following tutorials impossible
i'm guessing this "feature" where it cant touch the y axis is also recent because nobody has talked about it in forums beyond briefly mentioning it

>>2783610
Anon why not just use fusion?

>>2783613
because i'm retarded, thats why
sunk cost fallacy in all honesty, i spent time working on it, got it to work, and dont want to switch even if the alternative is better

>>2783610
>cant touch the y axis
its probably just a stupid oversight bug where someone accidentally wrote code that attempts a Y*=0

>>2783610
blender often has stupid issues with near-duplicate vertex positions, that are easily fixed by merging everything to a 0.001mm radius tolerance.
Maybe putting your Y axis line 0.001units away from Y would suffice, that probably will still be tolerable to any slicers standard rounding parameters.

welp it looks like that despite my issues with freecad my model shrapnell shell is coming along nicely

>>2783622
Are you putting this stuff on YouTube?

>>2783624
no its just a diagram for fun
stuff like pic rel

>>2783622
FOSS black powder mortar when?

>>2783626
you could probably build one out of steel for less than the cost of a 3d printer if you knew how

Has anyone here tried finishing PETG with nail polish?
Since, it seems, nail polish has a strong solvent, it would both "smooth" and color the print. I wonder how that looks like.

>>2783629
You're probably thinking of nail polish remover which is mostly acetone.

>>2783636
No, it seems (at least some) nail polishes use ethyl acetate as its base solvent, which is even more powerful than acetone.

>>2783629
Try on a small print first. If you've ever tried to spray paint Styrofoam it literally melts away as the paint dissolves it.

It could be anywhere between working very well and just being a melting disaster.

>>2783637
At what concentration? It'll just be painting it and not much else is my guess but try it and post results.

Does generative design help in creating a good supporting structure?
If yes, how to?

>>2783648
Explain what you mean. 3 walls and 10% infill will be quite strong. Good layer adhesion, good layer orientation in single wall and no infil can also be a strong featherweight print, but that's you tuning your print settings carefully.

If you don't want supports, then overhang at 45-50 degrees. If you don't want infill then do the same or just use lightning minimal infil.

Any infil percentage over 15% is wasted plastic, add more walls if you really need additional strength.

What is this shitty PLA? Is that a special material?

I bought it as a "mat white". It feels kinda different when touched. It doesn't stick to my bed, never had such issues before. Will jot going to buy this again

Should I try glue? Does it work on glass beds? Will cleaning be a problem. I never used it before

>>2783657
I forgot the image

>>2783657
What did you buy? Maybe you got scammed. PLA is by far the easiest material to print.

>>2783661
This thing, I didn't have issues with other PLA before but this one failed thrice now. It feels different that the regular PLA I used before, kinda more crispy and rubbery at the same time if thar makes sense

>>2783657
have you tried making a raft for your prints?
i bought a similarly cheap ass pla spool recently that didnt work with any of the settings that worked on the spool my printer came with
i tried a skirt and raising up the heat and neither worked, but for some reason the raft does

>>2783663
>【Upgraded Matte PLA】Upgraded Matte PLA is a premium version of ordinary Matte PLA, where adhesion on the bed and extrusion result has been significantly improved. It is compatible with most FDM 3D printers, e.g. It is compatible with many different types of 3D printers, such as Raise3D, Prusa, Voron, Creality 3D, Bamboo Lab, etc

lol, fuck off esun.

I bumped the temps, flow rate etc and this shit just peels off during the print. What a joke

>>2783663
It fails on very first layer

>>2783676
Last bit was for >>2783669

>>2783657
Glue stick yeah. Or a PEI bed.

I wanna make a very robust and massive laptop for going /out/ like a military laptop
i already have how i'm gonna build the internals worked out and the sensitive parts will have a metal case around it
my question is about the plastic shell which i plan on 3d printing
PLA seems to be a suprisingly sturdy enough filament for most of the build, but i also want to use TPU as shock protection. should i just use TPU around the corners, or cover the whole PLA shell in a layer of TPU
also, any advice for printing with TPU?
>>2783676
it always failed on the first layer for me aswell unless i used a raft. I honestly have no idea why but the raft just works, its some houdini shit. you shouldnt lose much filament or time from trying it atleast

>>2783663
Some additives (such as coloring) can make the filament behave weirdly. I have this amazing golden filament which is also a pain to print with.
With that being said, I don't know what the fuck "ePLA" is. But I've never had troubles using standard esun PLA.

>>2783693
also as a side note, the laptop internals are gonna be made from a 2u rackmount chassis, is there any way i could minimize the jiggling of any parts

>>2783693
>I honestly have no idea why but the raft just works
the raft creates a shallow heat bubble that affects only the first layer, basically. Think of it as a very very very small heat shield.
That's why it can help with adhesion (even though it kinda feels like it shouldn't).

>>2783676
Try setting your z offset a little bit higher and see if that helps, like 0.02 higher.

>>2783699
Sorry, that was for the skirt.
The raft works because it has more surface area.

>>2783693
PLA is not suitable for any kind of functional print really. If you want something very robust use either PETG/PCTG or ABS/ASA, or you can go for something exotic like filament with CF but that shit is expensive.

>>2783693
Bullshit. You have no idea whatsoever.

>>2782974
>>2783062
>>2783397
Thanks for saving me 100g of filament. To make sure I’m grasping this, basically the layers are more likely to separate than to shear. So depending on the predominant vector of force I need to make sure that the layers are deposited parallel to anticipated vector and there’s no way I could print a functional milk bracket as designed, in one piece?


Next question. I want to print pic. Looks like heat is an isssue tho. If I print area around chamber with abs is it less likely to melt or should I just accept I’ll never own an fn?

>>2783711
Pretty sure I meant perpendicular instead of parallel

>>2783708
what part, about the computer or the raft?

>>2783711
>If I print area around chamber with abs is it less likely to melt
You want to shoot real bullets? Use blender and make a shell for the FGC-9 or something. Engineering a real printable gun is a big deal that requires a lot of testing and iteration.

>>2783663
That should be a reputable brand. The heat recommend is a little higher than the usual for pure PLA. But I print my PLA+ at 210C onto a 60C PEI textured bed.

>>2783717
There's already printable functioning ps90 files out there.

>>2782113
>mirko with 3 limbs too many

>>2783663
>>2783696
>>2783720
PLA+ and ePLA are just marketing. All it means is "we put something extra in" there is NO CONSISTENCY as to what it means apart from "it's not 100% PLA".

>>2783702
retard. PLA is fine. I've had a PLA mailbox pull for five years and the door it pull sticks and the mailma'am is a fucking gorilla who hates the world. Five years in the sun and no problem. Meanwhile I've had ABS melt in the sun like it's butter, while the same vehicle 16" away PETG has held up fine for literal years. PLA in the same application as the ABS was fine for just as long, longer actually, both fail utterly with sun and local radiant heat (e.g. black parts). Stop talking out your ass, PLA is perfectly okay to use depending on the circumstance.

>>2783711
less likely to melt is a purely academic less. if you're going to try you should go straight to ASA and it will be a matter of 10 more rounds or something. ASA has lasted the longest in my dash area but it may just be a question of never quite hitting the right circumstance as I've had PLA last longer than ABS due to external circumstances (e.g. direct sunlight on a hot day). But yeah start with ASA or a +CF and expect it will be a proof of concept that will probably melt quickly.

>>2783629
you smooth ABS with acetone, and yes I've tried it with nail polish remover. PETG is a different plastic which is why it's called PETG and not ABS. solvents are only strong for things that they are solvents for. PETG and acetone are not one of them.

tl;dr it won't work

>>2783726
Maybe you should stop talking out your ass. PLA has glass temp literally 40C lower than ABS. If after reading this you want to bring up UV resistance don't bother.

>>2783588
try making it 90º instead of 360º. I always get caught trying to revolve a symmetric shape. Less so at times part of the shape is just a little over the chosen axis and interfers with itself. Second try an axis that is offset by a few mm (as if to make a hole). See if the error occurs in the first and or second case.

>>2783590
I have a x1c. The AMS is for multifilament which to normies means hurr durr a different color. There are 4 extruders (towers) one for each filament slot and a 5th at a switch underneath that controls which of the 4 bowden tubes leads to the extruder.

The mini AMS seemes to lack the 5th switching station extruder as all 4 are handled at the head. Regardless the AMS still needs a retraction mechanism and extender feed for each filament. In addition the software "expects" the AMS, e.g. it reads if it's not there or several error states including communication cable being disconnected.

So it appears you could diy the mini AMS with four extruders and software that communicated in place of the AMS. If it's at all cost effective to do so I'd assume some open source autist will have a solution before long.

>>2783734
and that 40C is a very narrow band in almost every application. In other words in the majority of cases it will be under the PLA glass temp in which case ABS doesn't matter. In the majority of the remaining cases it will be above the glass point of ABS so using ABS *still* won't matter.

e.g. Pay fucking attention there are very few actual cases where the use case is in that 40C in which case you should just go ahead and use ASA anyway (if we're ignoring UV which you insist).

Go ahead, name a real world use case that is in that 40C band for which ABS is the superior choice because of temp, I'll wait.

>>2783693
ASA has UV resistance and basically every useful property of ABS.

PLA+ or PLA will function, but don't be too upset if you need to reprint later. Overall I don't get attached to my 3d prints as I can just make more and improve the next one with lessons learned.

You can use TPU as a liner or just cut foam.

>>2783742
thanks, asa sounds like the best choice then
also when i said shock protection i meant physical shock absorption since its flexible, not electrical protection
initially when i first got into 3d printing i didnt think i'd ever use it for more than fragile gimicks but after trying it i realize this shit is as hard as a rock, even at fairly low support densities, and i realized how straightforward it is to go from designing something to printing it within the span of an hour

>>2783693
this sounds like natdpp
search your local marketplace for outdated toughbooks, then use printing to assist you in cramming all your shit into it

the cable that came with the steppers had the wrong connector. To i wired it to the correct one but i dont know exactly if i did it properly. You gotta switch the middle ones yes?

>>2783693
PLA is really stiff and strong enough where weight is low, but my suspicion is that your laptop will be heavy enough that it won't hold up to being dropped on PLA even if it's like 1cm thick. Especially for where the stress is concentrated, like in and around the hinge. PETG has better impact resistance than PLA, I'd compare its impact resistance with ABS/ASA and PC, and PA too I guess. As for the TPU, it's definitely not a bad idea to have shock redistributing pads around the corners, but I think you'll get a better result casting polyurethane resin into a mould than using printing TPU, but it might be fine.

>>2783856
i plan on being pretty careful with it, i wouldnt handle it less carelessly than a normal laptop, the difference is that it'll be subjected to being outdoors constantly (being set down on dirt or rocks, carried around on a utility vehicle, used inside a foxhole or trench, etc.)

>>2781295
ok thanks for letting us all know for some reason

>>2783858
Even then, you'll need to put some effort to get the strength of a 3D printed laptop to get up to the realm of conventional laptops.

>>2783861
yea, i'll take your advice and avoid PLA, and using a mold also seems like a good option
also, would it be a good idea to reinforce the shell with metal somehow? the only feasible idea i can come up with is doing something like reinforced concrete where you put metal bars through it. also other than TPU on the corners/outside i was thinking of using it as a shock absorber between the internals and the harder shell

>>2783864
>reinforce the shell with metal somehow
Not going to be easy, because you'd need triangular structures to actually hold up against any force. Unless you have the ability to weld up a strong steel truss structure to surround core components of the computer, I'd probably just go for a rigid and impact resistant plastic, with shock isolating mounts for critical components.

>>2783868
for reference, the core components will be basically inside a fairly compact PC case (2u server chassis), pic rel
i dont know if you were imagining something different or not

>>2783693
I would go with ASA or PETG for the body and TPU for the corner guards and anywhere you want shock protection (you have the right idea).

People talk about UV resistance and stuff but I think you're going to sand this thing and paint it no matter what, and as long as that paint is there to water and UV-proof this thing, it should work out ok.

Just be careful about heat managements when you're dealing with thermals. Not saying you're going to melt the plastic necessarily but you will definitely want ventilation somewhere if you have a high-power GPU in the laptop.

>>2783868
>>2783870
Look into electroplating. You could coat everything in metal (maybe not a conductive one) and it should make the shell even stronger.

>>2783874
thats a good idea, electroplating 3d prints is something i'm already looking to try at some point since its used for making shapes to electro-chemical machine objects

>>2783874
>>2783877
do you even follow the threads?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1d36wbx_yg

>>2783901
Aaaand here's when it was first shared 18 weeks ago: https://archived.moe/diy/thread/2719891/#q2720115

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLqSaEiXzIU

has this been posted yet? $3000 sls machine

>>2783920
fuck didnt realize SLS powder is like $100kg. almost 6x the cost of filament

>>2783920
>>2783923
SLS was my OG erection for 3d printing. what's the detail level compared to resin?

>>2783840
plug it in and tell it to move, if its erratic, backwards or doesnt move then you have the wrong wires paired.
The motor should have a coil schematic online somewhere, and your motherboard probably labels which coil (A or B) is which pin.

>>2783924
Considerably better than FDM, still not as good as even a cheap MSLA resin printer. Some materials/printers push better quality, but most SLS nylon prints I've handled have been somewhere in the middle of the road. Noticeably better than FDM, noticeably worse than resin.

>>2783923
>buy filament
>put it in a blender
it's that easy.

>>2783929
You dont have to deal with toxic chemicals, washing, curing, or support materials also. Print time is probably pretty close and you dont have to worry about trapped liquids in the part. Has its pros and cons like everything. Pretty sure you can do some composites on it better too. I think the parts are more isotropic if thats the word im thinking it is. Basically the plastic fuses together better.

>>2783941
>You dont have to deal with toxic chemicals
You must wear a respirator and goggles at a minimum to handle the printing materials. The common nylon powders, especially those with carbon fiber added, irritate the skin, eyes, and airways. Many SLS materials produce hydrogen cyanide while they're being sintered; virtually all SLS machines require considerable ventilation and air filtration. That said, doesn't come close to the health risks associated with UV resins. I'd sooner snort a line of nylon powder than drink a shot of Chinese resin.

>You dont have to deal with washing, curing
Cleaning SLS prints is a huge part of the process. It's messy, and it sucks dick. Your normal Formlabs Fuse 1 setup is the printer itself, a Fuse Sift powder recovery station, and a Fuse Blast automated media blaster. Two-thirds of the entire setup is for "washing" and post-processing the prints.

>you dont have to worry about trapped liquids in the part
You have to worry about trapped powders in the part. Not significantly different.

> I think the parts are more isotropic
M/SLA resin prints are isotropic, their strength is not affected by the orientation of the print. FDM prints are extremely anisotropic, they're usually MUCH weaker along their vertical axis. Some brands (Markforged) proudly advertise that SLS prints are isotropic, but it's long-since been disproven. You get "close" with SLS powdered nylon printing, but still not quite isotropic, and it can be much worse with many other materials (laughably bad with metals).

Pros and Cons, like everything.

Haven't been here in awhile but need some advice hombres. I have a Polaroid Playsmart I got on clearance years ago. The current firmware is corrupted and it won't do leveling or bed calibration anymore. I can't find a firmware to load and replace this garbage.

I want to klipperize it and connect it to the Pi 3B I have running my CR-10 Frankenhorror. What's the best control board to replace it with, and will I be able to get that stupid android proprietary subboard running for the LED touch display? I was thinking like a BIGTREETECH SKR PICO or something. I have a SKR 2 running my bedslinger, but it was super fiddly to get the LED running a couple years ago.

>>2784004
>*LCD

I need to post with a little less tequila and a little more lime.

>>2783874
Electroplating is not an easy method for making a strong chassis. It's typically used for applying less than 100µm of metal, he'd need at least ten times that. When electroplating large amounts of metal, you need to avoid dendritic growths and to apply the metal as evenly as possible. The problem is, areas that have more metal often have a higher surface area AND a higher conductivity. So there's a positive feedback loop where more metal gets plated onto areas that have more metal. To prevent the higher surface area you need to introduce additives to the solution that encourage flat growth, these additives are used in industrial electroplating and are proprietary, I've heard that surfactants and "leaveners" and complexing agents are used but you'll have to experiment. To prevent conductivity being an issue you need to ensure the base substance (e.g. conductive filament) and the plating solution itself have enough conductivity at your chosen current that the voltage drop across them is insignificant. This may mean dropping the current really low.
When I plate the copper out of my ferric chloride, it just forms snaky dendrites on a path towards the cathode, and these dendrites are extremely delicate and fall off the cathode easily. If I dropped the current density and added some agitation it would probably work better, but it still goes to show that it's not trivial.

Additionally, the alloy you actually plate with such a method is going to be pure iron, which isn't particularly solid. Pure copper or nickel would be even worse. Technically it's possible to plate an alloy, but keeping a good ratio isn't trivial.

He'd be better off soldering brass angle sections together, or even riveting.

>>2783901
>>2783906
That guy just applies a thin layer of copper to printed parts, he's hardly making large things out of solid copper. Calling it "printing metal" is a misnomer. You can tell the layers are thin because his anode doesn't get shorter throughout his plating.

>>2784027
>Calling it "printing metal" is a misnomer.
Some sperg in the last thread really went off insisting that the jewtuber was actually making solid copper prints. He's not, obviously. Electroplating conductive filament is neat and all, but it's a far cry from printing metal.

>>2783926
My stepper have the following pins: A+,A-,B-,B-. So do i just connect them to the motherboard like the following,A+ -> 1A, A- -> 2A, B+ -> 1B, B- -> 2B? I already know how they move when they are connected wrong but the different labeling confuses me more than it should.

>>2784031
sounds right

Where do you amerifriends order your stuff, usually?
Going to the US soon and thinking of bringing some stuff in my baggage to, you know, avoid the taxes and shipping fees and whatnot.

>>2784064
amazon is usually the cheapest, as much as i hate supporting big companies

>>2784064
If you're near one, Microcenter is worth checking out.

>>2784027
Thanks anon, that makes a lot of sense

>>2783717
That’s a stock for a legally squired ruger 1022. I didn’t think I’d have a chance printing anything functional from scratch. I was thinking if heat resistant filament isn’t going to hold up there maybe I can remove the section replace it with aluminum depending on my ability to hammer a piece of aluminum into the correct shape

>>2783722
Out where?

>>2784140
I don't remember exactly, but probably odyssey or whichever site isn't the fed honeypot.
It's been a while since I looked into it because the ps90 with the barrel length restriction is an exercise in getting cucked. And also I'm not really looking at doing any big gun related projects atm as I'm trying to pair down for a move.

Wow, glue works like a charm for bed sticking issues

>>2784140
PLA+ or ASA is probably sufficient for most firearm parts as long as you don't fire several magazines in quick succession. And if you do burn down some cheap pla+, just print it again in the same or better filament.

CF-Nylon is likely overkill for almost any part that exists commercially as a thermoset polymer. And there are lots of commercial firearm parts that are thermoplastic.

In the example of a glock, the inside of the barrel or bolt face will get hot enough to seriously deform a PLA frame, however the frame only has indirect contact through the rails and bottom of the slide. That heat transfer is limited to those areas and means only the top of the frame might get above glass and a few millimeters down where the pins are holding the rails is still below 55C.

Thermoset = burns, doesn't melt (epoxy, bakelite)
Thermoplastic = melts (~all 3d printer filaments)

>>2784207
Get a textured PEI bed. Don't use glass or bare metal unless you absolutely must.

I just started my printer after not having used it since last August. Same roll of PLA that's been sitting there. I don't remember any settings I used to use. There's a plasticy smell coming out of it. Hope it works.

>>2784217
I love 3D printing bros.

>>2784217
I put a trash bag over my printer as a dust cover when not in use. I leave the current spool on the printer. Opened spools are kept in a plastic bag with silica gel packs from my preworkout. Filament dryer is unnecessary.

Where can i get a nice and cheap heated bed that is 180x180mm in size? All i see are either beds that are too big or mats that cost the same as the big beds but additionally need a aluminum plate. European sellers strongly preferred.

>>2784296
Kingroon KP3S or similar. $15USD shipped on Aliexpress, don't know about Eurostania.
https://kingroon.com/collections/3d-printer-hotbed-platform/products/kingroon-kp3s-heatbed?variant=43254969958618
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801728010540.html

>>2784140
>maybe I can remove the section replace it with aluminum depending on my ability to hammer a piece of aluminum into the correct shape
There is a way you could cast lower receivers using lost wax or lost pla. The lost wax method is preferable but wax filament is expensive I think. Everything you want to do has been done before you just need to research it.

>tfw some printer loli is more reliable on unit testing than about every popular grown up on youtube
Just opened Youtube to see for the Sovol S08 reviews and maybe news on Magneto X, but dear god it's bad. I know dick sucking, blabbering morons are always preferred to send review units to, however there's gotta be a limit on clickbait, basedface thumbnail and hyped up methodology. What a state rather waiting for two children to catch up to get anything useful..

>>2784231
Looks like it came out pretty good. What is this fan meant to cool?

Best filament for making a shower drain cover? I have white ABS so was going to use that.

>>2784333
Good enough.

>>2784309
>The lost wax method is preferable but wax filament is expensive I think.
You could just print a wax mold. There is also filament like polyhex if he wants to mold it out of plastic.

>>2784333
Any will work.

>>2783711
>Looks like heat is an isssue tho. If I print area around chamber with abs is it less likely to melt or should I just accept I’ll never own an fn?
From my understanding, the best plastic for guns is either PLA+ or some PC filaments.
I know it sounds weird, but it has been thoroughly tested by people who don't love their fingers as much as me and you do. Look up "Hoffman Tactical" on youtube, he's a real nigga when it comes to 3d firearm designs. Or "Print Shoot Repeat" if you just wanna see 3d printed guns in action. Here's a video for you:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kucefQ6sYbo&list=RDEMqVyJDVuJlBwbgORTDCHLlg

>>2784316
The Nintendo Godcube, although I feel like it's cooling it less now.

I currently have an Ender 3 for a year and half at this point, and I was wondering what would be the next step up without going too high in expenses? Like a faster, better machine?

>>2784667
The Ender 4

>>2782113
>tolerances.
FEINGEFRÄST.

>>2784667
unironically the ender 3 v3 is a solid machine tho a bit pricey, worth it if you ask me given that it doesn't use fucking v wheels anymore, has auto z offset and is corexz ie no more fucking around with leadscrews and z banding

>>2783711
Your prints are weakest where tension pulls the layers apart. If you have good layer adhesion this can still be very strong. If you can align the tension along the strands of filament you will maintain the most strength. Compression isn't a big deal and a 3-wall PLA with 10% infil can support 200lbs in compression. But if you jump on it that can be +600lbs of dynamic force that will crush.

Your milk bracket could work. And with some design adjustments definitely will work.

Hoffman and PSA and other gun printers use mostly specific PLA+ "Pro" or rarely CF and other things like Nylon. They will tell you specifically which exact brand and model filament they used. Heat is a result of how fast you shoot.

>>2784667
You should know what printer specs you need next. If you don't know, you aren't printing enough.

Filament swap or enclosure for ABS are the usual. Not all of these are new printers, can upgrade what you have.

I've never printed anything but they just put me in charge of the 3dprinter, whatshould i print while bossman is away?

>>2784773
I have the basic SV06. Has only two small drawbacks, no filament runout sensor and not a klipper machine. Both upgrades in the plus model. I would review it well and has been very easy to use and I print much cleaner than most youtube goofs who somehow have z-banding, very visible layers and bad retraction settings.

>>2784806
A test piece to see if you can print anything. Benchy, the ugly center console boat is the most common first print. But print literally anything small to prove it works. Then measure esteps and correct esteps on the machine, then temperature, flow and retraction towers and dial in settings. Finally print a dimensional print and adjust horizontal expansion and horizontal hole expansion and now you can print literally perfect parts.

It is much easier than it sounds.

>>2784806
sweet. what printer?

>>2784801
There was a ~25% off the Anycubic kobra 2 pro going on right now at Walmart, so I went with this one after seeing a bunch of good reviews with it. I wanted a faster one since it's my main complaint with the Ender 3 and I can double if not triple the print speed with better looking prints.

Plus, it has an included filament detector, which I didnt have on my Ender 3 yet.

>>2784806
Print a prototype for a product, quit your job and become an entrepreneur.

I just got reminded that I wanted to print a pair of human sized tits to stick on my wall as decoration.

>>2781164
>>Voron
>Good luck to any beginner.
Well you got your wish. Sv08 is a $600 350mm 2.4.

>>2784846
Watched a livestream of one being upboxed yesterday, its also cheap and has a woefully unfinished slicer profile/configuration setup and also mechanical

>>2784846
It looks like shit and utter garbage. Enjoy the ender 5+ stock experience. Faggot.

>>2784027
>You can tell the layers are thin because his anode doesn't get shorter throughout his plating.
but you could, yes? you could continue to grow the copper in one place to get metal? I realizes the shit isn't refined at all but the concept of copper on copper on copper etc is possible, yes?

>>2784773
The Ender 3 V3 KE uses v-rollers for its Z movement, guide rods for Y movement, and a linear rail for its X movement. The Ender 3 V3 SE is similar, but uses v-rollers for its X movement and Z movement.

>>2784982
Yes, but read the rest of my post. It's not trivial because the copper doesn't always just print in flat layers. PCB fab houses regularly apply smooth contiguous layers of copper up to ~0.5mm thick via what I believe is electroplating, but it may just all be electroless plating. Applied Science did a video on electroless plating.

why don't they make steel frames for printers

>>2785001
they do though

Are we anywhere close to getting Bambulabs quality out of the box without Bambulabs?

>>2785011
>quality
Sure, just buy a Prusa. Good luck printing ABS or ASA though.
Else pick your poison >>2781164

>>2785021
Just reprint the Prusa parts in ABS or ASA :^)

>>2784846
>Well you got your wish. Sv08 is a $600 350mm 2.4.
Any review that isn't paidman yet?

>>2785001
https://yandex.com/images/search?from=tabbar&text=anycubic%20i3

Has anyone got UART/sensorless homing working on a MKS, preferably SKIPR, board with TMC 2209 drivers?
This shit is pissing me off.
Yes I have the diag pin jumpered.
Yes I have the UART pin under the driver jumpered.

>>2785039
So what's not working? What's happening? What's wrong? Give us something here.

>>2784659
It's a noctua so yeah.
They blow/pull less air than normal fans.

>>2785001
That was my makergear.
It's an absolute unit that let me print faster than prusa's or ender's.

>>2785048
So far I have:
-ia few weeks ago I tested 6 different 2209s to see if its a driver fault, but i only did the most basic testing with them, ie: I only tested
uart_pin:PE6
vs setting TX and RX manually:
tx_pin:PE13
uart_pin:PE14
...including the fiull retard test of leaving uart_pin at PE6 and setting tx to PE13

It almost works:
$ GET_TMC
// ========== Write-only registers ==========
// SLAVECONF: 00000200 senddelay=2
// IHOLD_IRUN: 00081919 ihold=25 irun=25 iholddelay=8
// TPWMTHRS: 000fffff tpwmthrs=1048575
// TPOWERDOWN: 00000014 tpowerdown=20
// SGTHRS: 000000c8 sgthrs=200
// ========== Queried registers ==========
!! Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_x' register GCONF
!! Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_x' register GCONF

But if i tell that axis to home:
$ G28 X
!! Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_x' register IFCNT

>>2785048
So currently I only have one (X) driver jumpered to use UART, have jumpered its diag pin and removed the normal physical endstop....and I think i have tried every possible combination of tx_pin/uart_pin, but only ever get the same errors as above.
I've read dozens of search results re those errors, and none have helped.

I cant figure out what pin the DIAG exiting the driver is supposed to be connected to, but have come to the conclusion that when I jumper the XDIAG (previous schematic) it just ties it to whatever i config-define as diag_pin, and that the pin for the normal X- endstop is correct.

>>2785075
>>2785066
>>2785039
PS: a while ago i was asking about making buzzers louder than what EXP1 seems to be capable of. I suggested HE2. After the coil in a tiny 20mm 0.5Ohm speaker melted and fell out I tried a piezo disk hacked out of a dead fire alarm. It works perfectly; good volume, no melting.
FYI....

>>2785062
Thought only Dremel was dumb enough to pull this off.

>>2784659
>why would a smaller and weaker fan cool less?
Average consumer.

>>2785066
>>2785075
>jumpered
You didn't do the thing without selecting your voltage, didn't you?

>>2785099
>Average consumer.
>b-but its more expensive so it must work better regardless of the physics of moving air across blades
yup

>do the thing without selecting your voltage
What?
Nothing I mentioned should have anything whatsoever to do with voltages. Except maybe vref, which is already set by potentiometer AND significantly reduced by the uart config.
Or do you mean something else?

>>2784860
>woefully unfinished slicer profile/configuration setup
If you cant make a slicer profile you shouldn't have a printer. Same people probably don't know CAD.

>72 hours into a 80h and 96h print
>power is flickering
I'm on the fucking edge bros

>>2785099
>do the thing
oooh, you mean connecting wires from driver pins to board pins for UART, stoneage style.
Nah, this is modern UART, where you just connect a jumper under the driver.

>>2785132
>he doesn't run his printers on a UPS
ngmi

>>2785140
Go larp somewhere else.

Coming here for advice.
I have an Anycubic Chiron with a dead mb and you can't get replacements. I can handle swapping the mb I just can't quite figure out what the best combo is. Including the bl touch and filament sensor. Which MB, firmware, raspberry pi whatever would be the most compatible and possibly easiest to install?

>>2785229
>easiest
Frankensteined Anycubic i3 Mega guy reporting in:
MKS SKIPR is pretty good. Integrated pi. Basically just plug all your printer shizz in, configure klipper and thats it.
https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-SKIPR

>>2785229
>Anycubic Chiron
skipr caveats include:
1) you cant update the armbian OS becasue MKS always cobble together abandonware and then ... abandon it. But there is a 3rd party maintaining an altrernative armbian for the board. No idea how useful it is, but for now idgaf as the older armbian is fine, and it may be possible to disable the pi and just plug your own into the MCU part of the board...not sure.

2) CAN bus requires that you plug USB from the MCU side of the board to the SBC side of it, but afaik it works when you do that.

3) it MAY have problems with TMC2209 drivers and UART... idk, i cant make mine work, so im in the process of finding out now. Works fine with them in regualr standalone mode though (manual vref and steps etc.)

>>2785229
also you SHOULD get the 8GB EMMC, becasue fuck TF cards. Only catch is you need to empty your timelapses fairly often so you dont run out of drive space.
I dont wifi, but its wifi solution is a USB dongle, no onboard, so that leaves 2 USB sockets for your cameras. There is no CSI cam port.

>>2784819
it's a big industrial one, there's very little documentation and it's not on cura settings
>>2784810
i made this. Is ironing good for you?

>>2784829
well, why haven't you done it

why is blender so retarded

>place a cube mesh
>select one face to try and subdivide it into two faces
>" fraid you can't do that, faggot, bad geometry"

>>2785301
I did. But it failed. Then I made a website and I actually earn a living with it.

>>2785266
>>2785229
Kingroon is selling fairly cheap 32gb emmc that ship faster than Ali.
https://kingroon.com/products/upgrade-32gb-emmc-module-for-kingroon-kp3s-pro-v2-and-klp1

>come home to print
>99% finished
>42/42 layers
>print head fell off resume/cancel?
>see this
god fucking dammit I did not allow the chinese into my data for this kind of fuck

>>2785328
How long have you had your printer? Asking cause just got one as well.

>>2785328
Serves you right for sending your dollars and data to china. At least keep your worthless data.

>>2785328
You just posted your disgusting unmaintained disgrace of a printer just to piss me off, right Anon?

The CREALITY K1C printer is on sale at
MICRO CENTER for $519 (thru Sunday USA stores). Easy setup, auto cal and level, awesome 17-min benchy. Recommended.

>>2785029
Its not out yet. Theres one review in german that was in depth, but other than that youll have to wait. Otherwise theres the sovol shill and the voron guy you was crying because people were saying its a voron killer.

Got a K1C on sale since i'm a sucker, bed level looks skewed as fuck, aam i correct in assuming 1.1mm is way too much?

>>2785440
Waaay too much. Prusa says 0.2mm is acceptable. You can typically get below that even on cheapshit like an Ender 3. Adjust that bitch. It's not as easy as a printer with bed leveling knobs, but it's not a huge challenge by any means. Check Youtube, watch some other people do it first, save yourself some grief.

>>2785440
lmao imagine making a printer with three z screws and a bed level sensor, only to put all three z screws on the same stepper motor

>>2785328
>gluey looking shit all over bed
>head design with all sorts of shit protruding to within a mm or two of the nozzle tip/print surface... so will always snag on curled corners etc
yeah... but CHINA BAD... enjoy your herd programming

>>2785404
Now measure it on the flat section of the calipers where it will be forced to sit more square to the measuring axis than out on the thin sections where it can allow the object to rotate slightly which effects the measurement any way the user wants it to.
Also: digital calipers. Disgusting.

>>2785317
oh sweet. I dont actually need it, but nice to know.
pity its not aliexpress, 2 clicks and I usually get 12 day delivery

>>2785440
You probably assembled the bed so its not really square to the X gantry...somehow.

>>2785404
Man I really need to by one of these electronic bitches. I'm still cucking around with a regular one.

>>2785564
The dial verniers are best; dont run out of batteries every 2 weeks, arent flimsy plastic shit, and yoou can eyeball additional decimal place accuracy if you really feel the need. Same for scale verniers, but those tend to be easier to misread.
The only advantage digitals have is ease of reading, but given that they round numbers and the contact they make with the measured item is almost always less positive and more prone to caliper flexing... they still suck for all but the least accurate measurement situations.
If I'm taking dimensions off my printer construction I use the digitals, but if im measuring individual components or anything 20mm or smaller - ie: i need it to be accurate to at least one decimal place - i either only use my dial calipers, or both dial and digital.

>>2785566
>so I got uhhh muhfuggin uhhh twenty point and uhhhh

I'm tired of this.

3 hours to install this onions "blockhead" fan duct to my ender because some anon said stock blower sux - and its not even offset properly. There's no way to adjust it. Is it supposed to look this far off or is this an ender3 v1 vs v2 problem? I have a v2.

>>2785430
>sovol shill
Who? TNL seems more like a everything shill to me. I blocked him quite a while already.

>>2785570
Just use metric like any civilized person.

>>2785575
What do their docs say? Maybe you can get away with taping off the two rightmost chambers to not take everything apart again before printing the actual fitting part.

>>2785575
you sure you installed it on the correct side of the gantry?

>>2785575
oh lol
fan design is one of the easiest ways to know if the designer is a dumbshit or not.
These blowers ALWAYS blow toward one side, the fact that this design clearly doesnt understand this is so common among all the thingiverse dEsIgNeR retards.
They obviously dont even bother to test how strong the airflow from each side of the outlets is, or it would be immediately apparent to them that they fail at design.

>>2785583
even this isnt ideal, but its infinitely better than 99% of blower shroud designs

ender 3?

>>2785426
Sorry, just checked price and is now back up to $539. Bound to be on sale again.

>>2785586
it would be better to just use 2 fans at this point

New to printing, I don't need any tools right? just a printer and PLA?

So, my print failed at the quarter point, and it went fine after. But now I have some stringing and empty ness. What is the best way to correct that? Hot glue gun to melt the strings? Cosmetic cover up with vines or whatever?

I'm thinking of sanding the part and then hot gluing it until I paint over it?

>>2785592
must be nice to have lots of free space around your hotend
I have to either fit mine within the sideways dimensions you see there, or reduce my reachable bed area.
Besides, that fan is plenty for that much ducting.

>>2785581
Yep. Sending it anyway. Mostly I print with fan off, ABS. But was hoping to get a good fan to tune bridging and overhangs.
>>2785583
What ducts are people here using successfully on your ender(s)?

>>2785598
Yes. I recommend pla+ if you are making something you want to be able to use
I regularly use alcohol for cleaning and glue sticks for keeping prints to the bed

3D printed headstone?

>>2785685
very futuristic

Finnaly got my thumb unstuck from my anus and got my old webcam plugged in and configured. And im not too pleased with this FOV. Are there any webcams or pi camera modules you guys would reccomend?

>>2785712
depends how far away you need to put it and how wide the field of view needs to be for what you want to see on the sides
You could always buy one of each of the different FOVs, either as USB cams or as pi CSI cams.
I used to be a strong proponent of pi CSI cameras, but since this mobo forced me to look into USB cams I find I like these because they are encased, metal, and otherwise pretty cheap.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005510880232.html
Mine is a 58deg model, but its not plugged in right now, and im not sure i have screenshots of it. But I had it mounted on top of my i3 gantry, facing down, and it was a good top view of the print and printer without too much more to the sides.

>>2785712
i think most cams are ~60deg FOV
this is the cam i linked, on a flexible gooseneck with a magnetic base at the other end... wobbled a lot while printing, so not ideal.
Cant find any shots of it secured (not wobbly) to the middle of the main gantry though.

The 175deg pi cameras are pretty good if you need to put the camera close and want wide FOV, plus they have switchable IR which presumably can be useful for looking at heated objects in low light. Also can be easily focused at whatever distance.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001290840774.html

I have quite a few (like a dozen or more) of the classic PCB pi cameras, of various versions. Same 60ish deg FOV iirc. They dont suck, but if the focusing lens has been glued on too well (most are) they can be impossible to focus close. You can put +diopter reading glasses lenses in front to negate this, but thats pretty lame.

>>2785712
Every so often you will find what looks like a good camera, but it will only do UVC (not MJPEG) on linux hosts. This makes them basically useless on an SBC printer host.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32987942398.html

>>2785724
>UVC
wait, no, iirc im thinking of YUYV
...maybe?
i forget, but basically theres two formats, MJPEG is one of them, the other one isnt recognised as a video stream by most things, and has much lower framerate. So its no use to us in this context.

>>2785712
I unironically run an old android phone as camera and works like a champ, app is called droidcam, lets you stream on your local network

>>2785730
Interesting. I've got more than a few good old phones lying around. Would it be reasonable to extract a camera module from them and hook up to the rp 4b? Or do i really have to use the whole phone?

>>2785720
>>2785722
>>2785724
Im looking at PI camera modules. I really want the camera to be within the printer frame footprint. Bit thanks for the tip. Something with 90-120 FOV is probably the best for this application.

>>2785712
buy a cheap plastic lens and 3d print a bracket so it goes in front of the webcam
if you're lucky, you might be able to take the webcam's existing lens and change its distance to the sensor or flip it around or whatever

>>2785738
>within the printer frame footprint
the usb one i posted is pretty small, thats why i posted it. Its like someone made a pi pcb camera usb and wrapped it in metal.
>90-120 FOV
yeah, pi cameras then

>>2785745
What i said about presbyopic lenses to allow close focus is something that actually works, but this spaghetti you are talking....you are just making this up as you go, aren't you

>>2785753
>you are just making this up as you go, aren't you
Hell yes!

>>2785602
The fans actually worked decently well, my overhangs are much improved with 50% fan for layers under 30 seconds. Was totally guessing with those settings but made a perfect fagboat other than some zits at layer changes. Based on settings in cura, it looks like the only adjustable fan control is based on layer time. Is there a way to simulate layer time in cura to tune this? And is there a way to turn the fan on just for bridging and overhangs? Anyone have suggestions for fan settings for ABS?

Will a smooth PEI buildplate from AliExpress give me a nice smooth surface on the bottom of the print similar to what you get with those textured glass beds on Ender 3 V2/Neos?

I need a smooth bottom for a client but I'll throw away more than I'll be paid on a wham bam PEX plate after VAT + delivery

>>2785408
I haven't greased my lead screws in years.

>>2785377
a few years. I ran a delta before it. bambu still has problems, especially the AMS, but the resume print is usually flawless.

>>2784806
Don't, or your ass won't be in charge of the 3d printer for long

is a new ender 3 KE a better newfag printer than a second hand CR10 smart / pro?
t. 3d printer retard

Wet filament indeed causing bed adhesion problems. Had some old filament that were refusing to stick. Got a fillament dryer and it works fine now

The shit is expensive though, I can't tell if it is really worth it

>>2785880
>expensive
get a fruit dryer
same shit without hi-tech markup

>>2785564
Complain about your calipers all you want, I'm using a roll up fabric measuring tape that my friend bought for 50 cents on aliexpress so he could measure his head for a motorcycle helmet. Shit is cash

>>2785872
If you’re a poorfag than I recommend open box ender 3. I just bought my second because it’s so cheap and prints so ok. plus more room for upgrades over time as you get familiar.

>>2785564
Cheap set works fine if you’re not prone to too much autism.

>>2785556
You found me out

>>2785998
There's no point in this measurement.
Also, you are including the elephant foot.

>>2786003
>Z facing camera
>caliper half way down X-Y side
obviously not

>>2786003
>>2786015
Cope harder

>>2786045
why do you have plastic digital calipers
literally kill yourself
>0,1 mm resolution
>0,2 mm accuracy

>>2786045
>I have 2 mitutoyo 6 inches calipers and a 12 inch aventor caliper and a quantum mike
>anon here is bragging about is plastic digital calipers with a 100 thou accuracy
I don't wanna shame you bro but a I'm more accurate with a steel ruler than you using that shit. I hope that only cost you $10. You should buy a good steel vernier if you really want to measure your prints and you don't wanna spend a stupid amount of money. Those plastic ones will bend on you if you put any pressure on them, even my $180 calipers can be forced to measure wrong if I just put too much pressure on it trying to pull some weird measurements. Calipers are called guessing sticks for a reason

>>2785998
how do you properly zero these niggers anyway? i can't apply consistent pressure with these stupid hands. for that matter how do know if I'm applying correct pressure to parts i'm measuring? i tried doing the flow rate test but my results are just all over the place.

>>2786056
If you want to actually use them correctly, it takes practice to get the pressure right. I recommend buying a gauge block set, a 123 block, or even just a single gauge block to measure with you calipers to verify you are putting proper pressure on them. The blocks should be accurate to their posted size within 0.0002" so that will prove if they are working correctly with certainty. That's how most quality management systems keep their calipers zeroed and calibrated anyway
I recommend getting a large block (3+ inches) and a small block (less than half an inch) to verify you are measuring correctly at all sizes

Has anyone used lightweight PLA before (0.8 g/cm^3)? If so, can you compare the strength vs. balsa?

>>2786046
>literally
Literally never bragged about anything nigger. Improve your lexicon.

>>2786045
>readings 0.1mm off
>Cope harder
Is this some /g/ tier bait? Get a proper caliper, anon.

>>2786046
plastic is nice when you work with electronics and other delicate stuff

>>2786074
>lightweight PLA
that stuff is just self-foaming isnt it?

my inner sperg liked this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzMFhd4SqP8

>>2785062
How fast have you been able to run this?
I got an old M3 that's been great to me. Had no issues or need to tinker for four years and everyone always complimented my prints. I never really tried to push the speed since most of my prints were shorter than overnight, but now I'm curious.
Things were going great until it started overextruding in the middle of a print. I think the idler might've gotten loose.

who... THE FUCK... made a calibration cube with the Y on the right side? How many thousands of these ABOMINATIONS have been printed and nobody even notices?
What MONSTERS view their printbed from the front right (Xmax, Ymin) instead of front left (Xmin, Ymin) like our lord and master Rene Descartes ordained?
WHAT SAVAGERY IS THIS?

bahhahahah
this is PETG from 2018, i pulled it out to use on this franken-bambu-stein i just put together. I had a feeling it would be moist, but this is MOIST.
Look how much filament spooged out when it was retracting the head, despite the 1mm retraction. Its like it was still printing actual lines. LOL
Also; dare me to measure it with my dial AND digital calipers? I'm not sure I'll be able to find two non-warty faces to measure.

lol
It puts the lotion on its skin or it gets the hose again.

>>2786132
Eh, it's probably functional enough. Do you get the impression the layer adhesion or otherwise overall strength is much worse than normal PETG?

>>2786142
No its just impressive how easy it is to make slightly old slightly moist filament go bad by simply printing it a bit hot (220C)
I've had it for a long time so i figured i should see how it looks, after this green i've been using the blue is almost a nice color.

>>2786142
nta, but in my experience wet petg gets more brittle and layer adhesion suffers. it baisically becomes pla lol.

>>2786149
Mind you, after having this machine printing perfectly despite all of the halfassed changes I was making to it, the moment I put this bambu nozzle onto the IR3 extruder it all went to shit.
The bed that was perfectly flat and effortless to position the nozzle over every time was suddenly not totaly flat any more.
My probe sensor died a while ago, and despite working (multimeter tested at probe and old board, and new board too, and completely different probe of same kind) it still doesnt work.
So I didnt need it back then, but now i want it to balance out the fact that the bed seems to have warped slightly for no reason at all.

But this fucking nozzle....
I need to redesign the mount I have it in. Granted.
I need to apply thermal paste to its heater. Granted.
I need to make a JST GH to JST HX adapter, and use the bambus actual thermistor instead of a generic one. Granted.
But for no reason it seems that it wont print for shit. I'm starting to wonder if the filament isnt moist at all. But I'm also reticent to open a new roll of the ghoul-green to find out.

So I'm procrastinating by repeatedly doing bed flatness prints, cubes and pressure advance shit.

I have new TMC2226s on X and Y using sensorless homing, at last; but surely thats not relevant. Plus I've taken a massive thermal load off the IR3 motor by switching to the bambu nozzle, so I doubt thats the issue.

So procrastinating it is.