/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2769757
>#341
>#339
brb gonna kms

I said I had a very cool post planned for this thread but it took so long to be made that I forgot what it was...

>>2769761
It's only been one day, anon, and this thread's a day early at that.

>>2769757
I am about to cry. I shouldn't have spent all of that money on voron derivatives, I could have had like 3 or 4 chinese botnets instead.

I want to use TMC2209 instead of my TMC2208, because I want to measure extruder torque to detect and prevent overextrusion. If my Marlinfw is told to debug (M111 S1), will the extruder be too late if it's based on that usb serial debug? It's possible the STM32F401RET6 could do it more directly but it doesn't look like anybody has released drawings of the E5S1 motherboard.

>>2769875
M122 S1
You can adjust the reporting rate, but there's definitely limitation there. I highly doubt it'd be fast enough for what you're considering.
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M122.html

You can't upgrade the drivers on that board anyway, you'd be switching to something else entirely. If you're serious about trying this, which I don't think will work for what you're doing but whatever, you should probably just use an Arduino and a single TMC2209 driver to do your testing.

i bought a set of titanium backers to use with my voron 2.4
i said i don't have enough screws roll-in nuts for the installation to the chinese seller and they surprisingly offered me with a free set of installation screws and the formbot kit i purchased, formbot emailed me and they told me i will get a new kit with can bus and manta m8p
what a nice day

>>2769875
Does your board actually have UART lines going to the stepper driver? It requires more GPIOs than a lot of boards have spare.

How do people print woodfill?
This shit is very brittle, but worse than that is that instead of flowing only out the nozzle this piece of crap flows back up into the heatbreak, jamming everything.
I already clogged 2 heatbreaks trying to print with this and I can't get anything more than the first layer to print.

>>2769955
by simply not printing it

seriously it is just a pure shit and no other way around it

never clogged mine throughout th whole roll years ago tho, i used cheap clone v6 with masking tape

make sure your heatbreak/block/nozzle assembly is tight throughout. even after doing that i got fair amount of tar oozing out from upper side of the heatblock

>>2769959
Everything is tight, so that's not the problem. It's also not oozing out at the threads.
The problem is that when it extrudes the molten filament flows up into the heatbreak where it cools and clogs up.
I never had this issue with any other filament, even if the nozzle was clogged the molten plastic still didn't flow up the heatbreak.

>>2769879
The Arduino/esp32 doesn't need to synchronize with XYZ at first.
I'm serious about working on the overextrusion-warpage problem. My other ideas still involve communicating with marlinfw. Instead of just doing I think and talk because I don't want to a setback. I'm avoiding the Sisyphus role.
>>2769893
It looks like they saved those pins for extra extruders https://github.com/CrealityOfficial/Ender-5S1/blob/main/Marlin/src/pins/stm32f4/pins_CREALITY_F401.h

>>2769990
The TMC2209s cannot give you the feedback needed. They can only loosely estimate torque within certain speed ranges, above or below that it's useless, the only real purpose is watching missed steps for sensorless homing. A small amount of experimenting with one would demonstrate this clearly, you're better off estimating load based off temperature and flow. Detecting and preventing overextrusion sounds silly, overextrusion doesn't "just happen", it's not a fault that needs to be ironed out, and not a problem that most deal with.

Flsun v400 or bambu p1s?

>>2770004
I want to print bigger unfilled nylon parts. If I figure that out I'll move on to PP. Other people don't have the same warping-overextrusion problem because they use an easier filament and a hotter chamber.
Is "temperature and flow" is something like https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/model_predictive_control.html . They tabulated filament heat capacities, but I don't see it used in their picrel energy balance. Hopefully part of the model error can update h_a, and from there I can conclude something about the gap.

With LDO Motors and Ratrig getting into the desktop milling machine business, do you guys think it will start to take off in the same way 3d printing has, or at least push chinese desktop router companies to improve their products? Will better open source software be developed further, like klipperCNC?

>>2770045
You should read that page more thoroughly, they explain quite well how it's accounted for.

>>2770045
How does the warping relate to overextrusion?

>>2770004
You can tell the drivers via UART to set the output current (and hence torque) really low. Then you drive into the bed and let the stall flag tell you when you're levelled.

>>2770156
You missed the conversation I see. TMC2209s have StallGuard with sensorless homing as a native feature, you don't need to do it "manually" like that, it's already been done and is implemented into Marlin for both sensorless homing and bed probing. That's not to do with what other anon was talking about that, he was talking about using StallGuard to gauge extruder torque in order to combat flowrate issues. StallGuard works by measuring torque, sort of, and you can with a little math determine the load on the stepper at any given time using StallGuard. It's not as simple as it sounds, but yes it does work. However, it doesn't work well with rapidly changing loads and speeds, it really can only deliver useful estimates at "medium" speeds and fairly continuous loads. With rapidly changing loads and speeds, like ALL of the steppers on a 3D printer, about the best you can do is detect missed steps, and even then you can't count them accurately. So using StallGuard for its built-in sensorless homing feature works well, but trying to "measure" extruder load actively, I don't see that going well.

>>2769961
i often have petg doa 180 as soon as it exits the nozzle, and worm its way up onto the heatblock. It only does it when extruding into empty space, and I suspect if i was using a higher heat it might be less apparent.

>>2770061
Each layer cools and shrinks after it's laid down. The bottom is done shrinking first, so the corners bend upwards. The bending closes the gap between the nozzle and the print. When there's too much filament for the space, the surface becomes bumpy. My cad model is straight with uniform height, but the print is curved and higher in the middle. The screws are pulling it flat.
>>2770059
The src/module/temperature.cpp uses e_position as expected. I prefer "h_a = a + bF + cE where F is the fan % and E is the extruder speed (mm/s) ..." to "h_a encapsulates a,b and c". It's a hard topic and I don't think they can do better while keeping the long variable names.

>>2770165
oh i thought you were responding to
>It looks like they saved those pins for extra extruders
not the other half

>>2770181
>Each layer cools and shrinks after it's laid down.
So you're talking about "overextrusion" as a result of warp, and trying to compensate for artifacts caused by warp without correcting the warp. I think that's a neat idea, you could monitor extruder pressure actively and care it to a predicted value for that condition to detect warp.

As an aside, have you played around with stress-relieving patterns? Try some nylon prints with only 1 or 2 walls and Hilbert curves for for all top/bottom/solid infill, Gyroid or Hilbert for sparse infill if any. The Hilbert curve pattern is slow, but it prevents uniform internal stresses warping the part, instead drawing many short lines in varying directions so stresses are distributed and varied. I've done this to pull off large open-air ABS and Nylon prints, at the expense of slow print speed and diminished print quality.

Have you ever printed anything you thought might be worth selling?

>>2770307
I made a part for my motorcycle the other day that i'm thinking about selling and just printing them as/if they sell. Other than the cost of some bolts i could always use anyway i wouldn't be out anything if i didn't sell any.

>>2770307
Not directly, but I use prints to create bespoke tools for other jobs - e.g. external moulds and internal bucks for wet-forming leather around objects that could not tolerate getting wet or I don't have long-term access to (e.g. expensive cameras) or custom press tooling for stamping. I've used printed parts directly in other projects, like end-caps for handles, but since a lot of the things I make are structural or functional by the time I get into engineering filaments that would meet the needs directly the investment in high-temp printers and filaments would be too high for it to be worth it. For someone who makes decorative objects that may be different.

>try printing a drone using LW-PLA
>this shit ends up happening

What can I do to avoid this amount of stringing? I'm using a Sovol SV06 with stock direct extruder (metal hotend) and changing the temperature between 195 and 215, as well as retraction distance between .2 and .5mm didn't make a difference.

>>2770356
Print in ABS.
LW-PLA is literally designed to bubble (and therefore string) like crazy. No way around it.

>>2770356
it is the ultimate fate of foaming filaments
>>2770364
true

>>2770364
While I knew that from the very start, I see a lot of people on rcgroups forums that print with much less stringing than I do. Plus, I print at like the lowest temperature (probably a mistake because it doesn't even foam much at that setting), which should theoretically result in fewer strings.

>>2770356
retract more?
like 1.5?

>>2770356
Fan speed. I dont print LW-PLA, so YMMV. When I print PLA, all my printers default at 35% on the part cooling fans. I dont print crazy fast so this is perfect for me, give it a shot if you want.

>>2770356
>What can I do to avoid this amount of stringing?
Design your parts of foaming PLA.

No retractions, consistent flow rate, consistent hotend temperature (as foaming is temperature dependant). Vase mode is effectively mandatory, internal ribs need to be formed with outer wall deformations at wall thickness.

>>2770368
Isn't that dangerous?

>>2770378
the danger is nothing more than a clogged hotend tho

Are phosphorescent filaments scam? I got one from aliexpress but there is no glow at all. Am I doing it wrong or did I got chinked?

>>2770389
they exists but seems you got chink'd lol

>>2770379
How high would you go for a direct drive extruder? I'm currently at .5mm.

>>2770391
probably around 2?
but i thought again and i don't think retraction would alleviate anything in that case
i'd try tho

>>2770393

>>2770389
Shine a bright torch on it and see if it glows. It could just have very little phosphor in it

>>2770368
Don't retract LW-PLA, it's foaming.
All you'll end up doing is moving the foaming region to the inside of the nozzle and clogging. The more you retract, the higher the foaming region will reach, eventually it'll be up above the heatbreak and you'll be fucked.

>>2770398
It's actually the pre-foamed variant, should have specified.

>printing a whistle
>Extruder fan blows into it

>>2770406
lol
it's the little things

>>2770389
You got chink'd. The quality of glow filament is a WIDE spectrum, and large quantities of quality glow material is surprisingly expensive. If your glow in the dark filament costs no more than regular filament, expect it to be shitty. If you're looking for a good glow filament, the recommended brands for Glow-In-The-Dark filament are usually Overture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CB48BVNW and colorFabb https://colorfabb.com/glowfill

>>2770389
No they're not. Got one from polymaker? and it glows. You're realizing that glow is just shit which is why I laugh whenever someone wants to put it on their gun sights.

>>2769760
you made a huge deal last thread about doing things properly and you reward us with this.
Normally I would say something mean but in recent weeks I've begun a spiritual journey to find Christ. I'd like you to know you've been forgiven and I wish you the very best in your coming life.
God bless you all
Amen.

>>2770457
There is no god; only the weak latch onto the concept of a magic sky man to relieve themselves of blame for the suffering they invite with their poor choices and indolent efforts. A pabulum for those unwilling to live without assigning blame for their ills onto others, so they do not have to accept fault for themselves. The devout are a pox, a pestilent plague that serves only to spread hate, selfishness, and willful ignorance.

>>2770457
based

>>2770460
>t.

>>2770356
tried going over the stringing with a flame?

>>2770457
Glad some people are striving for self improvement and bettering not only themselves but those around them. Bless you too.

>>2770356
only happens with that filament? try running your tinkered-with LW-PLA profile with regular PLA just as sanity check.
your top layer looks overextruded af. maybe you're just overextruding and have too much pressure in the nozzle after

>>2770460
Please tell me this is a pasta...

Is there a comprehensive "compatibility" list for multi-material printing? Like, things that stick or do not stick together. Both can be beneficial. I am asking because I recently got a cool gunpla with double-shot ABS+PP joints, very delicate and precise parts that glide over each other with zero tolerance, so now I wonder what is possible.
From what I know:
PLA and PETG make a bond just strong enough to print and then be easily removed, perfect for supports. Might be able to replicate the gunpla joints too, though they'll need to be bulked up.
TPU and ABS do stick together, and if the part is designed right they won't separate even without an interlaced interface layer.
PP is a bitch and doesn't stick to anything but itself (and, apparently, TPU), good for injection molding but probably no good for printing as it'll probably show bed adhesion issues except with the second material.

>>2770457
>>2770460
I kneel...

>>2770558
everything is possible probably except the preassembled part
make sure to put some sort of dovetail structure on the mating surface or something similar
those multi injection things do the same thing to increase bond.
but that preassebled state just cannot be recreated with FDM technology
they might coat the joint surface with some stuff, cool it down before etc

>>2770456
>gun sights
wow do people really
tritium rods are dirt cheap and works like a charm

>>2770678
>except the preassembled part
That's the part I'm most interested in, actually, not bonding, so I'll test it. Yes, on my single nozzle Artillery. I learned that you can get away with around .6 mm of part height over your Z position because even if travel path crashes into the part nozzle will spring up on hotend carrier's slop and glide over it. Will report back.

>>2770727
it's out of the oven

>>2770728
.6 of PLA is not enough thickness, I feel it's about to break. I shouldn't have removed the support, 'twas something to grab onto, or/and also print it the other way round with the thin part in PETG.

>>2770727
well i'm very interested too, i'm in a service sadly so i can't test it myself. what are you printing? a test joint? please report back when done also a good job anon

>>2770729
oh you've done it nice
i think mating surface is too large to snap off
i would print something like 2d version of those gunpla joints

>>2770729
Surprisingly, the first part that failed first was the top part, not the thin PLA arm. I tried sticking a razor on the bottom to split the bond and the top crumbled. It's definitely a symptom of not enough purge. But it did make my job of splitting them easier.
...Someone should probably formulate a PETG+PLA blend to make an unholy mother of crumbly filaments for cheap multimaterial supports. Who needs dissolvable PVA when you can just look at this one wrong for it to disintegrate?
>>2770730
A test joint that is actually printable on the machine I have access to right now. It's a bit of a hackjob, prints in 3 gcodes- the bottom PETG part with the base, the male part of the joint and the support; the PLA arm on top of the support; and the top PETG part. Evidentally it's too thin to work as intended, as you said the ratio of the mating surface to part sturdiness is too large. If you scale it to like 2-3mm at least it might work proper.

>>2770734
now see, for something like this i would print the petg part separately, and just slide it onto the pla part just before the top layer of the gap prints, like we used to do with magnets and nuts back before heat set inserts were a common thing.
would also solve the thinness since you could print the middle bit any width without having to purge constantly.

>>2770734
It's actually a super smooth joint, even without the toothpaste trick. I like it. I like the prospects of this. Now, to upgrade to something that can print multiple materials properly, and finding other material combos.

>>2770735
You don't get it. I don't want to print separately, because that runs into the issue of tolerances. Fuck tolerances. Printing two incompatible materials together forms them perfectly around each other, which makes a perfect zero tolerance joint. As long as 3D printers are good at perfect circles, it will be a smooth joint.

>>2770181
Fella what is that? It looks terrible.

>>2770747
Str8 outta devil's anus

>>2770719
Yes, I don't think anyone knows how to source tritium rods, I certainly don't. And if you want to actually swap out your sights it's too much for some people. So they end up painting some glow paint on their sights.

>>2770776
you can get it from ali or similar place
sometimes you get fake glow in dark, sometimes you get the real deal
kinda hit or miss in this way ngl

>copied from bambu email they just sent out

In the past, filament discounts were exclusive to members. We hope that more people can enjoy them. Therefore, we have now decided to remove the membership restrictions starting from March 13th and open up the filament discount benefits to everyone, adopting a straightforward approach by “calling a spade a spade”.
What This Means for You

Buy More, Save More: Enjoy discounts on PLA Basic, PLA Matte, PETG Basic, PETG Translucent (new), and ABS. Get as low as US$19.99/roll for filament with spool and US$16.99/roll for refill, and there are no quantity limits on the purchase of filaments. Check the prices in your local currencies.

Trials of new filaments: By subscribing to Bambu Lab's newsletter, you'll become eligible to participate in trials of new filaments, getting the chance to try them before their official launch.

Being Truly Eco-Friendly
Environmental protection is something we care deeply about. We encourage you to continue using your finished master spool by reloading it with a new refill. In real terms, people now pay less for daily filaments than ever before and receive much more.

Expanded Refill Color Variants: We are in the process of completing refill options for all colors of PLA Basic and PLA Matte. Additionally, you can expect to see more options for cosmetic PLA and carbon fiber reinforced materials in the near future.

Happy 3D printing! If you have any questions about the filament, do not hesitate to contact us.
Warm regards,

Bambu Lab Team

>>2770785
>environmental protection
>t. company selling plastic toy making toy for maybe more tham a half of the users
wow those retards went apple full throttle

>>2770785
They're probably doing this because they are always out of stock and their discounts aren't worth shit as it is.

>>2770788
but we are potentially saving 200 grams of plastic (the spool) per 2000 grams we ship out over land sea and air, therefore we are eco-friendly!

>>2770790
probably. their filament while not necessarily bad is definitely overpriced, especially for the basics. The max discount pricing is what they should be normally and the discounting should be for the exotic filaments.

>>2770747
I considered https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2218916 instead. My ugly print uses less material, offers better cooling, puts the shaft is a bit farther in, and I can adjust the motor position.

>>2769844
why not the voron itself?
>>2770046
hmm i doubt
3d printing is a very hassle free and has extremely larger wiggle room for operation parameters, safe and lastly very clean thing compared to CNC mills
the hurdle and hassle is just too much for it to take off
you can run a 3d printer in a cheapo studio home but you can't do it with any kind of subtractive manufacturing equipment
tho i can imagine those decades unchanged cheap chinesium routers finally moving out from their shitty comfort zone
>>2770389
my experience with those filaments was very bad.
very very dim lights
>>2770806
but.. is there any 'must' reason for that bracket

>>2770046
>klippercnc
There already is well supported open source CNC firmware called linuxcnc. It lets you just string together some motors, frame, mainboard and a spindle and turn it into a functioning CNC mill/plasma/router.
https://linuxcnc.org/

>>2770806
>>2770816
i mean it is a stepper motor equivalent of idk,
ferrari compatible rubberband

>>2770823
It's for a DIY AMS. The red aluminum part is for a mk8 extruder. I will stall a SG90 instead of the spring. If it burns out I'll look into a bistable mechanism. I'm leaving the printer extruder as-is, and I'll cut filament with either the XY steppers or servo, so the 28byj-48 only has to push/pull clean filament off the reel through < 1m of tube.

When is bambu going to make a large format printer?

>>2769757
I want to 3d print a design a case for a laptop.

TL;DR How to design for a laptop case? Autocad is ASS

I took out the motherboard made a photo from above, trying to draw over the screwholes with autocad, and also on the perimeter, with a 1mm allowance.

I think what I'm doing is super retarded, but I don't know how to approach it better, also autocad is ASS and I hate it.

Help me, a better way to design, and a better program?

>>2770875
>tracing photos
retard
get a set of calipers and measure shit proper
also laptop cases are not a good idea for printing, between size, high strength requirements and plastic generally being bad with heat a printed case is one of the worst ideas possible

>>2770873
When they feel they've sold enough of their smaller ones to then piss off whoever wanted larger.

>>2770880
why it's a so bad idea? I think a 2mm 100% infill pla+ should suffice

it just has to host the mobo and the fit for the monitor, as I'll keep the lid with the screen mount

>>2770875
If you hate AutoCAD, consider TinkerCAD or Blender, they're perfect for people who actually don't want to do CAD work.
Your photo from above may not work as well as you'd like, camera's don't capture flat planes, your shit won't fit. Use calipers for measurements, use photos as loose references. If you want accurate scans, consider dropping the motherboard on an actual scanner, like a normal photo/document scanner, they're very good for grabbing correctly scaled pictures of flat surfaces. The one I use now is a printer/scanner/copier I bought at a shitty thrift store for $4.
>>2770880
This nigga's right though. If you want to make a laptop case, go for it, however,
>2mm 100% infill pla+
That shit ain't rigid, it's downright soft. Great for taking an impact, can be very tough (depends on what your PLA+ actually is, because PLA+ is marketing wank that means nothing), but not rigid. Laptops are generally made out PC/ABS, HIPS, and PPO, with stamped steel or aluminum frames or other reinforcements. You do not want a laptop that can flex, even if it's not enough to be an issue with holding and moving the thing, you don't want it flexing and moving as it heats and cools. Laptops get hawt, too hot for PLA+ given that it's perfectly normal for the hot bits of a laptop to be pushing past 90C. As it heats and cools, shit moves, expands, contracts, and if the shit that needs to be rigid isn't, that's going to let other parts flex and move more than intended. It's a great way to kill a densely packed SMD-rich 8+ layer mobo with soldered BGA RAM, CPU, and GPU.

>>2770887
okay okay, I tried blende already, I'm installing tinker cad rn and will buy calipers.

thank you anon, btw about
>be pushing past 90C
I only use it to watch uni videos and browse so it literally never gets past 65°, I think it could be fine.

Regardin PLA+ it's sunlu PLA+

>>2770889
>65°
>pla
shit is gonna turn into cookie dough

>>2770883
i've tried printing a case for a laptop mobo-based prototype thingy before. it was a pain to keep such a huge part dimensionally accurate enough to line up (though it was printed in abs like 10 years ago, we got better printers and plastic since then), and half a spool later on third successful print (and a bunch of fails) and with manually fixing the model to account for uneven shrinkage the thing worked for 20 minutes until it got hot. then it got soggy and caved in. that was abs. pla doesn't have either temperature resistance or strength to keep a large motherboard from flexing.
>monitor
most screen mounts in laptops are designed to be screwed into metal. if you try to contain them in plastic, they'll tear it up, even if you massively overbuild the mounts they'll just creep and crack over time.
the first rule of printing is that not everything is solved with printing. that prototype i was talking about was eventually contained in a correctly sized tupperware box, using printed mounts for alignment and small parts like antennas, and regular pc motherboard standoffs for structure. wasn't pretty, but it functioned, and it took a man-hour to make. the abs case multiple people spent a whole day fucking around with did not.

>>2770889
The Blender/TinkerCAD comment was sarcastic, anon. Use AutoCAD, learn it. If you want a REAL alternative, Fusion360, Solidworks, OnShape, any of which wouldn't be any easier in my opinion.

>Sunlu
Trash-tier China filament that doesn't disclose what the hell it even is. Great for knick-knacks and stupid shit, terrible choice for this. Their datasheet and MSDS aren't exactly revealing, it's some kind of PLA with a some calcium carbonate in it which slightly improves tensile strength. Pretty basic and not comparable to 3D printing optimized PLA blends like 3D850, 3D870, and 3D700 that print better, have better impact resistance, tensile strength, greater rigidity, and far better temperature resistance.
>>2770892
>shit is gonna turn into cookie dough

>>2770896
>>2770894
>>2770892
thanks guys, I guess I just have to give up on this piece of shit case :(

>>2770887
"Flat" photo with reference measurements versus a cheap scanner, which requires no reference because the scale of the flat-plane is based on the scanner DPI, so you can take measurements directly from pixels. 600DPI == 23.6 pixels per millimeter.

>>2770904
I have a scanner and never did this. thanks anon

Whats causing these weird lines when the nozzle is moving from the left of the retraction tower to the right of the tower? Is it the part cooling fan not able to cool the last bits of extracted filament off before going to the other side? Or is it something else that I should check?

Settings:
Left model:
Retraction length from 1mm to 10mm, 1mm increments

Right model:
Retraction speed from 45mm/s to 85mm/s, 5mm/s increments

>>2770967
>Left model:
>Retraction length from 1mm to 10mm, 1mm increments
with 45mm/s retraction speed

>Right model:
>Retraction speed from 45mm/s to 85mm/s, 5mm/s increments
with 6mm retraction length

>>2770967
Try fan speed instead. Just try it at 35% the whole time.

What's the implications of government agents raiding yet another company for making parts that can be made on a 3d printer?

>>2770985
There is no way this is a good advice for anyone. At 35% the bridging has to be utter shit because the extruded filament isn't able to cool down while it is mid air. Show me your bridges with 35% fan cooling.
And the issue on those pictures can't in no realm be related to setting the fan cooling speed even lower. How could that ever even make sense lol

>>2770993
About
>fuck off back to /pol/

>>2771000

Is that not a retraction tower they are doing?

>Show me your bridges with 35% fan cooling.
you can adjust fan speed for bridging in your slicer, you know.

>How could that ever even make sense lol
You never tried it of course it wont make sense.

>>2771024
>You never tried it of course it wont make sense.
Yeah because it literally can not make sense. Do you see the fucking picture that he posted? Think for a minute with your fucking pea sized brain for a minute now, if it isn't too much to ask from you, and TRY to explain how in the fuck would LESS cooling fix the NOT COOLING issue that he is having you fucking imbecile. And you still haven't shown the bridging while STILL trying to give that shit suggestion which makes 0 sense.

>>2770967
Improve part cooling (blower part cooling fan, better cooling system, dual part cooling fans etcetera) or reduce your printing temperature. With better part cooling you will be able to print at higher temps, thus print faster, because you are able to melt down and push the filament out faster, due to it melting faster, due to it being hotter. Or lower temps, because that way your current shit cooling system is able to cool down the extrusion faster. One or the other should fix the problem. Reducing the fan speed to 35% like the retard who is suggesting it, who can't even think of a reason how or why that ever would work, wont work. Because it can't work. Because there isn't a single logical explanation as to why it would work. "Just try it" doesn't make any fucking sense, because that in general doesn't make sense.

Has anyone ever swapped the extruder of an ender 3 for a fleshlight with a built in warmer? Seems like a great 3rd party mod. I make take this idea to market

>>2771027
>Yeah because it literally can not make sense. Do you see the fucking picture that he posted? Think for a minute with your fucking pea sized brain for a minute now, if it isn't too much to ask from you, and TRY to explain how in the fuck would LESS cooling fix the NOT COOLING issue that he is having you fucking imbecile. And you still haven't shown the bridging while STILL trying to give that shit suggestion which makes 0 sense.

I tried to but you're acting out in frustration because you can't understand due to your underdeveloped brain.

>>2770832
oh, makes sense
>>2770875
trace it on paper and scan the paper
naive photo won't work in such scale

>>2771028
Could you post a drawing of your idea? I am unable to imagine a proper image.

>>2771028
it's great until you got your dick stuck in belts

>>2771080
Something like this >>2771085

>>2770967
Faggots are just spitting out suggestions without answering your question.

>Whats causing these weird lines when the nozzle is moving from the left of the retraction tower to the right of the tower?
I assume you're talking about the scraggly stalagmites.

>>2771091
you would want coreXZ in that case

>>2770904
We dont all happen to have a scanner lying around.
Wider focal lengths cause the distortions you are assuming all photos of things include.
If you use a long enough focal length that effect is minimised, depending on the size of the object and how far away you can get. So if the user isnt ignorant of the basics; photos are a useful dimensional source.

>>2771000
not them, but this is a bridging test i did last night; almost all of the 6 setting variants i tried looked like this. They literally WERE just hardening in mid-air. I really wanted them to join the strands a bit, but this is still a pretty good bed for the next layer.
'fans always on' in prusaslicer is 35-45% ish, which is the shorter lenghts of the picrel, the 60% of spans to the right were me just cranking it to 100%
Also keep in mind that blowing air can be done in many ways, and just "blast it with piss" is usually a pretty shit way. Picrel is from 3 directions and not particularly high velocity. PETG @200C

What happens if i *DO* connect INT1 and INT2 to my board? Are they just going to be inactive and have no effect when the ADXL345 is in SPI mode?
Or will the smoke ascend?

My OCD prevents me from just nipping those two strands in the ribbon, if i can avoid it.

>>2771115
Or does it work in I2C mode?.... board is MKS SKIPR...
In any case, does wiring all 8 terminals to the motherboard present a hazard? Surely not...right?

>>2770875
>>2770887
BTW, if this were me, assuming the object was relatively flat, I would lay a big sheet of paper over the back of it and shade in the outline and the holes, then use a ruler to dimension it. Assuming you have a big enough ruler.

>>2771114
Also the fact that prusaslicer was giving such consistent output was suspicious in itself; I suspect it ignores some user selections without telling you. At one point I was 'bridge flow ratio' to 2, and it was exactly the same as 1.
The only thing I did that made any diff, despite playing with numerous related settings, was using or not using the fan. Of was pretty much the same as 'always on' (35-45%), and 100% was good, but a little width-inconsistent, maybe it has issues with pressure-advance. The nozzle temperature wasnt wavering at all, so it's not that my nozzle temp was dropping due to fan activity.
In fact my 100% fan when bridging setting was also being ignored, so either the app is bugged, or my test model isnt recognising a 10 to 100mm unsupported span, with 3mm of air underneath it, as a bridge.

>>2771115
If INT 1 or 2 sees a logical high then interrupt will trigger. Look at the ADXL345 datasheet for a more detailed explenation of what they do. But if you really do want to conmect hem because you have OCD then do it i guess. You don't need to connect them to the board in the other end. Be wary of 3.3V logic and 5V logic and nothing should smoke. I'd just tear off 4 of the 10 wires of the ribbon cable and crimp on sockets for a dupont connector. For your INT1 and INT2 put sockets without crimping wire in the 8 duppont connector as they help grab onto the pins and make for a much more secure connector compared to using two three pin duponts. This part is moving and chink shit dupont connectors can be dodgy and janky af. picrel is how not to do it, because i tested it and they disconnected very easily. Use a single 8 socket.

>>2771050
>I tried to but you're acting out in frustration because you can't understand due to your underdeveloped brain.
Tried to what? Only explanation you gave was "you never tried it". That isn't a physical explanation as to why something might affect something else you fucking monkey. Like you are so unbelievably fucking retarded that it is just unreal

>>2771165
>You don't need to
Yeah but if I do will something burn?
>interrupt will trigger.
But is that interrupt even going to do anything? Given that this pinout seems to be "common" to both I2C and SPI, (as in: their respective pinouts are kinda analogous), wouldn't it be logical that any unnecessary pin connections would do nothing, or at least be harmless?
Or is that a 'dun goofed' assumption?
> Be wary of 3.3V logic and 5V logic
Looks like it self-handles that.

>>2771093
>>2771027
Lowering the temps did it, thanks. I was printing at 250C because the last filament was fine at that temp, but this one required ~215 for normal looking prints, both are from the same manufacturer.

But what might be this issue, that the small details look bad/smudged? Am I overextruding? What should I do about that, calibrate the esteps?

>>2771184
I find its worth finding out what is the absolute lowest temperature you can use on a given filament.
The last PLA i had was labeled as minimum temp 20 degrees above where i usually printed with it. And if i printed it within the labeled range it was pretty shit.

>>2771172
I can't remmeber at the top of my head what the interrupts did exactly but it is in the ADXL345 datasheet and they're interrupt output pins so this IC can trigger interrupts for annother uC. Yes shit could potentially burn if you do something stupid like connecting12V to the interrupts, or 5V logic when the rest of the board is on 3.3V. As i said, you can connect wires to INT1,2 and not connect them to your printers mainboard or anything else just to calm your OCD down. I don't think the adxl345 handles 5V logic, unless the module it sits on has someething to handle it for the IC. Read the fucking datasheet. https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/ADXL345.pdf

>>2771192
Who the fuck are you even replying to retard? My house is going to burn down for printing at 100% fan speed?

Since the big problem with making your own filament is getting the proper diameter, couldn't you just make it oversized and then cut it down? Like extrude it at 2mm and then have it go through something that cuts it down to 1.75mm and then maybe through a drilled 1.75mm nozzle that's slightly heated to round it off?

>>2771195
it is harder than it sounds
>slightly heated
it'll ruin everything so it should be done in cold
also you would want PCD trimming die, not a drilled random metal scrap
even if you do so you have to deal with cooling, plastic chips clogging, wear, pull strength, surface quality etc
i dont think it will work

>>2771195
why the fuck would you EVER bother with making your own filament, or reusing your trashed parts and recycling them into filament. a spool costs 16 dollars. are you poor?

>>2771201
>>2771195
the more i think about this the more pissed off i get at people as fucking retarded as you. do you with your under developed brain think you could ever produce a spool of filament from scraps in under an hour, in your own home? just fucking work at minimum wage for an hour and buy a fucking spool. jesus fucking christ the retardation is completely unreal.

>>2771202
So what do intellectually superior individuals such as yourself do with all the accumulating scraps?

>>2771201
Spools are like $25/kg here in euroland

>>2771204
i throw them in the fucking garbage and dont think about them ever again

>>2771205
thats literally the biggest cap i have ever heard and sounds more like an IQ issue

>>2771195
>>2771199
theoretically it is the best method to keep the diameter constant
if it was viable, all the proper companies would do that. i would happily buy a kilo of 40$ PLA spool with +-0.01mm error. but they don't. even for companies it's just not a viable solution and imagine you pulling it off yourself
i would be very surprised if you managed to make more than a meter of filament with that method

>>2771192
>Read the fucking datasheet
Yeah yeah, keep your pants on.
I'm asking for the known facts answer, not the caution doomsayer answer.
I dont know shit about how I2C/SPI deal with voltages, or how interchangeable they are as far as smoke goes, thats why I'm curious.

>>2771206
$239.90 for 10 spools of that from esun3dstore

>>2771209
i dont care. i just posted you a fucking picture from esun official website with shipping set to an european address. so it is IQ issue, as i said.

>>2771210
Yeah you're probably right

>>2771192
I'm really just trying to figure out the *actual* risks, becasue i'd prefer not to nip/detatch the two wires at the connector if i dont need to.
Also becasue then I know one more thing about I2C/SPI

>>2771209
>$239.90 for 10 spools of that from esun3dstore
...Are you blind?

>>2771213
just retarded as i said before

>>2771213
Huh, didn't show up on Brave browser for some reason. Although I'm seeing a different deal where it's Buy 9 Get 3 for free
Still, waiting for deals is an annoying way of handling filament needs

How do these look? Currently printing a temp tower which is why the temps are periodically dropping

>>2771215
>brave
top kek

Making some progress...

Looking good brothers!

>>2771222
god i hope this would not turn up in my dream
whatcha cookin tho, looks interesting
>>2771223
>mfw i see a paused print due to a stupid fucking gyroid pattern recognised as spaghetti

>>2771212
Well I think it will be fine. If you do notice any unexpected behaviour just desolder the wires and put heatshrink over. The connector on the board doesn't hav any smoke inducing voltages on those pins as far as i can see. Same type of pinout on the mkrpi but mirrored yes?

>>2771224
I intend to make a robot waifu even if it takes a 50 years.
I'm going to have to scrap the face tube though I don't think that'll work...

>>2771204
I collect them by material and send them to recycling nerds.
https://recyclingfabrik.com/
I tried making sheets once and it worked for that specific project, but was an absolute pia getting thickness remote close to what i wanted. Never bothered again after.

>>2771205
>>2771206
>>2771209
>>2771210
This isn't another episode of euros include taxes directly while americans after, right? Right?

Pic rel from my current favourite filament shitter. Sure, not the cheapest, but far from Joseph's extra virgin blends and still actual support if something's wrong.

>>2771222
>>2771233
>man made horrors.jpg
But that hair looks like Miku....

>>2771250
Yes

man made mikus

>>2771252

>>2771252
i fuckin lost my shit for minutes wtf anon lol
that composition is just perfect

>>2771258
Lol ty

>>2771245
>This isn't another episode of euros include taxes directly while americans after, right? Right?
what the fuck are you even talking about? just go to the fucking website and check the price for yourself.

>>2771222
these spheres are awfully polygonal

>>2771268
Eh I'll sand it later maybe

>>2771195
The hot end needs more power to maintain the temperature when fed faster thicker filament. Instead of specifying mm, the extruder could aim for a certain energy (J) beyond the amount lost with the filament retracted.

It has probably been tried and rejected for PLA,pa,abs because those filaments are cheap. It might make sense for PP which has a tiny filament market.

1kg PP filament is $60, while pellets are $15 down to $1/kg wholesale. By comparison PLA filament has much less markup: $3/kg wholesale pellets becomes $20/kg retail filament. If PP filament catches on it might get down to $18/kg retail, assuming both filament take the same effort to make. In the meantime you can sell your PP filament for $40 and pay off the equipment quickly.

>>2771252
You should print with fiber layer heights for your demonic waifu puppet.

>>2771195
The problem is getting consistent diameter throughout the entire spool.
It doesn't really matter if the filament is 1.6mm or even 1.5mm as long as it's that size everywhere.
If you know it's undersized and by how much, you can do a bit of math to calculate a flow% and compensate for that undersizing.
Most extruders will work just fine (rip in piss BMGkeks) with undersized filament, even something like 1.35mm works well.

OrcaSlicer 2.0.0 beta is out with cool features like scarf seams, direct support for adaptive bed mesh and new benchmark model
https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases/tag/v2.0.0-beta

>digging through shit working on a move
>find some matterhackers pla from 2016
I'm tempted to try and dry this shit out and print something, but I also kind of want to keep it as a time capsule of sorts.

>>2771298
>scarf seams
I might have to try it out.

>>2771314
Print something era-appropriate with it. Here are the most popular 3D prints from Thingiverse circa 2016:
Venus Box: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1559232
Wireframe Skull Pencil Holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1388237
Marble Machine #3: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1385312
Origami Carabiner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1819242
Soldering Fingers: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1725308
Customizable Hook: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1367661
T-Rex Skeleton: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275091
G-Clamp: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1673030
Jet Engine: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1327093
Spray Can Holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1436529
Micro-Catapult: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1763518

>>2771320
I don't have a ton of filament left on the roll, but printing something of the time to have as a "sample" of sorts to go with the rest of the filament would be neat.
Will probably do that.

>>2771330
just print a calicat, it's what I do when I'm about to finish a spool, plus it's not ugly as a fucking benchy

Complete stupid noob here, do you need a powerful computer to print good stuff or is that completely irrelevant and its all dependent on the printer.

>>2771332
>calicat
Solid choice, the Cali Cat is also from 2016: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1545913

>>2771333
>completely irrelevant
A shit computer will make slicing slower and clunkier, but that's it, won't affect your ability to print. The printer runs on its own, it's independent of the computer. You can print straight from a computer via USB, but it is generally not recommended.

>>2771337
I see thanks.

>>2771337
>but it is generally not recommended.
How come?

>>2771342
When printing directly over USB, the computer is doing the heavy lifting. Your computer is not particularly good at doing things in real-time. It does LOTS of shit, it's always doing lots of shit, even when you're not doing anything your computer is sitting there churning away. If you run Windows, forget about it, so many background processes and little things going on that you're unaware of. When controlling a 3D printer directly like that, it all needs to happen with perfect timing and without interruption. A program updating in the background could ruin a print. A Windows update could restart your computer in the middle of a print. Open web-browser, oh the printer stuttered and everything's fucked. Try to watch Youtube while printing? Lol forget about it. There are lots of a things a computer can do that will interrupt or otherwise fuck your print. It's much better to let the printer do the real work, it doesn't need to be connected to a computer at all.

There are specific cases where a printer is driven from a host computer, but it's usually something completely dedicated to the printer. This is how Klipper is done, a dedicated computer like a Raspberry Pi drives the printer, and is specifically set up for that purpose.

>>2771348
That doesn't sound right. The gcode gets uploaded to the 3d printers motherboard. Whether is done via the computer or USB is irrelevant.

>>2771367
Try plugging out the sd card/usb and see what happens. Definitely stops my printer for good. On the other hand it just picks back up where it left after a power outage if you confirm resume.

>>2771348
Thank you for the detailed response, though I cannot help but wonder how that would go with a decently strong computer and linux - if a SBC is supposed to pull it off I'd expect my desktop to, based on experiences with SBCs and the bloated DEs people shove on them for unfathomable reasons.
Point granted on hard interruption

>>2771348
don't forget the part about it frying your usb port

>>2771367
When you print from your computer over USB, the controller is only able to cache a few lines of gcode at a time. They're streamed from the computer over a serial connection, a few at a time. That serial connection is slow, and unreliable. An SD card or other storage attached directly to the printer gives it very fast and reliable access to the gcode with no chance of interruption by a Windows Update.

>>2771376
>with a decently strong computer and linux
If you set it up right, absolutely, plenty of people have run regular desktops and laptops as Klipper hosts. It's a matter of how you set things up. The real problems come from people trying to use their own personal computers as hosts, which is definitely not recommended.

I had to tweak the settings to make getting rid of the support less painful but it came out good

>>2771411
I think it gets uploaded on the k1 seriously anons get a decent printer. Even $400 is not going to break the bank.

>>2771445
>I think it gets uploaded
Nigga you weighing in on something you don't understand. You don't know how your K1 works.

>>2771458
The USB is just a memory stick it has to be uploaded somewhere

>>2771411
Did you try using the sd card as a buffer:

M28 filename
<Slicer output>
M29
M23 filename
M24

Question- why does fuzzy skin have to do physical motions when it can just randomly vary the filament flow? That way you keep speed and fuzziness.
Also, the first slicer that lets me fuzz/unfuzz specific polygons/surfaces and not just within a volume will become my daily driver.

I’m a new robotics teacher in a small town with no budget so I’ve been buying printers and shaping my own program.

I’ve just gotten into 3D printing and wanted some insight into adding robotic components to create things like remote control cars. Is there a go-to kit for the electronic side of things?

Im trying not to involve breadboards and soldering as I’m on a limited budget and the students are retards.

>>2771444
Checked. What did you do to the supports? Trying Trees in Cura tomorrow as the standard ZigZag at 20% infill is too strong to easily remove.

>>2771493
Just regular lines but 80 degrees touching the buildplate

>>2771479
To maintain planarity and layer adhesion.

>>2771490
Ask >>>/diy/rcg/. They definitely buy kits like that (flight controllers, electronic speed controllers, etc.) for drones, I'd imagine there are similar things for RC cars. Not sure what kind of price range they can be found in compared to just scrapping the guts from a cheap RC car though.

wiring questions:
1) when a cable is rated in Amps, what voltage are they talking about? AC/DC? What is assumed here?
2) What is 'chassis wiring'? I see 22AWG is often quoted as 7A (chassis wiring), and less commonly 0.91A, or in one spec sheet that considered the core strand count (picrel) I saw 2A...all for 22AWG. Whats the safe digit for 3dprinter type scenarios with multistranded 22AWG?
3) is there a useful reference document that is useful for 3dprinter scenarios?

>>2771543
>when a cable is rated in Amps, what voltage are they talking about?
Doesn't matter, only the amperage matters. There's a maximum voltage, that has to do with the insulation on the wire.

>>2771543
>What is 'chassis wiring'?
Rule of thumb for short lengths of wire, as opposed to 'power transmission' or similar which is for longer runs. Most amp ratings and whatnot for wires are rule-of-thumb, and always assume the Chinese are lying. If you buy bottom-dollar 16ga, it may actually be more like 18ga. For most low-power shit on modern 24v 3D printers, your endstops, fans, thermistors, probes, and even stepper motors, 24AWG is usually perfect. For 24v hotends 18-20awg, for 100-150W 24v beds 12-14awg.

https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/

>>2771554
>always assume the Chinese are lying.
I am aware. Its more likely as the core gets smaller though, not so much with the larger silicone stuff.
>endstops, fans, thermistors, probes, and even stepper motors
22awg is whats in a premade 1m length of cable with 10pin GX20 at one end that i want to repurpose. I have lengths of the same cable in 20 and 22 awg, and loose connectors to match.
So im doing some thinking about if i should use the premade or make a new one. I'm intending to put a connector on the outside of the case at short distance to the hotend. I'll have to double/triple up on some wires for the heater etc, and am trying to remember all of what I learned in 2018 and have since forgotten about load related wire selection (the OT) and therefore the possibility of using shared wires for stuff that can accept a common + or -.
But I'm realising that I really should be looking at 15pin GX20s, and even then i'd have to share some wires with multiple endpoint devices.
...So I'm just thinking about how to use what I already have and still get an improved printer with less bunching or cables to the hotend.
...But First have to get my head around all the brainfart documentation i made in 2018 that may or may not be possible/safe, and then decide if i can use it.

>https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/
you sure thats the link you meant to post? It didnt tell me anyhting i didnt already know, and isnt really related to my question.

>>2771195
an accurate diameter sensor on the printer so it knows exactly what to expect coming up and how to compensate would eliminate most of the fuckery of home spoiling. as long as the filament doesn't look like a spool of anal beads for hamsters it would work perfect... in theory

>>2771580
It's been done plenty, there's native support in Marlin for filament width sensors.

>>2771543
When you put 7A through your table's 22awg copper, you lose 0.3V/m or 2.5W/m. Your wires are probably short so the voltage drop doesn't matter. If some strands break the loss will be more.
With short wires, heat transfer matters more. The insulation will have an outer surface temperature around 50C if air is free to circulate over a horizontal cylinder. The inside of the insulation will be even hotter. 50C won't burn PVC or your hand, but it's uncomfortably close. The heat transfer correlation isn't perfect/doesn't necessarily describe your actual geometry. More importantly, it might be a hot day or your put it in a 50C heated chamber.

>>2771599
I wouldn't be worried about power dissipation below 25W/m (0.25W/cm), even 50W/m is probably fine. Unless you're really trying to thin down your wires for some reason (e.g. snapmaker using just two conductors of RJ12 phone cable for its heated bed) you'll probably never run into it as a problem.

I bought a PEI sheet with magnetic undersheet. The aluminium bed of my printer is warped a bit. Previously I used the IKEA mirror with tape directly on the magnetic bed to make everything level. Do I leave the tape there and just stick the tape underside of the magnetic undersheet onto the tape? Or is it not a great idea to have shit underneath it?

>>2771617
Well first I'd have a go at bending the aluminium back to level. If you have a flat surface like a non-stainless kitchen benchtop it should be doable. After that's done, if the magnetic bed sticks well to the tape I'd consider it fine. But since the magnetic bed isn't nearly as rigid as the mirror, you'll want to ensure you have smooth contours of tape to prevent edges causing bumps.

>>2771631
How would you go about bending the aluminium bed? It has insulation underneath it which I dont want to remove, so I couldn't push/bend from underneath. So if I were to lay it with the top side of the bed on the counter how would I apply pressure to it to bend it? Sorry if this question might seem retarded but I have never tried to bend a bed back to place.

>>2771638
>How would you go about bending the aluminium bed?
You don't. Anon above is a certified retard.
The chances that you will fuck it up more are infinitely higher than that of actually straightening it out. The forces needed are big and the correction needed is very small. You need specialist equipment to pull it off.
Your hands and a "flat" kitchen benchtop (yes dude PAL boards are totally flat and have zero flex lmao) are unlikely to straighten out shit.

Your time and effort is much better spent nigger rigging a 1$ micro switch into an ABL system.

>>2771651
I do have ABL but I find that I have more consistent prints when I have taped underneath the IKEA glass onto the aluminum plate, I figure it's because the ABL can't measure every single point which might be faulty but I can fix most of the low points with tape and a straight ruler.
Since I also googled for a bit and found no guides on people bending their aluminum plates straight I figured that it isn't doable. But what I did think about doing once I install the PEI undersheet was buying aluminum tape and fixing the low points with that, and then putting the PEI plate onto the aluminum tape. I think this currently is the way to go

>>2771638
Buy a granite flat reference surface, a carbide or tool steel scraper, blue ink and a rubber ink roller. Or lap three uneven surfaces against each other to make three flats. Takes forever. But you can acheive really good flatness.

>>2771669
I am definitely not doing that. I am sure no one will ever be doing that

>>2771653
Your piece of shit ikea glass is thin and will bend to the bed's curvature when you clamp it down.
Get a real glass bed, the ones that are thick ass borosilicate glass. They are far more rigid so when you clamp them down the bed will bend more than the glass. It still won't be perfectly flat, since the glass will still bend a little, but it will be MUCH flatter than whatever you have going right now.

>>2771669
>dude hand scraping lmao
Sir, this is the 3D printing general. We work with plastics, not metal. If anon knew metalworking he'd have fixed the bed already.

>>2771669
>>2771631
are you two competing for the most retarded reply of 3dpg? while you are doing that can you set your replies to have a tripcode so everyone not interested in the actual dogshit of replies you are making could filter you

>>2771609
I think you're right. The 1mm diameter in my pic was too small. Heat can conduct along the wire into the motherboard which probably has a fan.

>>2771638
>It has insulation underneath it which I dont want to remove
too bad, remove it
then block of wood and hammer
if you move it about a bunch as you beat on it, it should cancel out any minute variations in the benchtop
you hold a straightedge up against the bed and push shims of paper under it to find where the low spots are

You receive absolutely nothing if you correctly guess what causes the following spiral-like defect on this print!

>>2771874
My best guess would be meshing issue in a dual gear extruder

>>2771874
Power Loss Recovery on a vase-mode print.

>>2771252
>>2771233

You on /robowaifu/?

>>2771874
It's where the layers start/end?

>>2771222
Do something about those toenails you sick fuck

>>2771333
sliced files are text. the slicing is just processing time so that's not a problem. you'll struggle to design anything, blender, fusion, etc will be unusably slow. I have an old i5 and it struggles with them.

That leaves actually pulling up the stl in the slicer, it's a 3d render but not as intensive. Still it could cause problems if you pan, tilt etc. Luckily you can pull up your slicer of choice (Orca) and play with some stl and even slice them without having a printer.

>>2771348
what the fuck

>>2771411
prusafag detected

>>2770816
>why not the voron itself?
Because my functional printer died while trying to print ABS parts for the voron(s), and they aren't operational.
So I ordered parts for them from well reputed Voron part suppliers(Not print it forward, as they won't do voron derivative parts)
I then kept running into multiple issues over the course of assembly( multiple left handed parts, out of date parts, missing key parts)
I hand to go back to the guy 3 times, and pay for shipping, and still had issues.
All while juggling a very packed schedule, so little free time to even try and build, on top of constant issues with supplied parts.
I fucked up a mainboard(bootloader) on one of them following a guide linked by someone in the discord, and had to order a replacement.
For less than half the fucking cost, I have a printer that works as well as a mid tier voron, with none of the run around the voron community has offered me.

>>2771444
Nice work. I printed this at 3x size for my ex-gf, was a super fragile print. You have anything snap on it?

>>2771967
So, he didn't fix his mistake the first time, so you order from him twice again? He should have sent you the correct parts the first time you said they didn't work. Do a chargeback for all orders and send all the parts back. Find a diffrent supplier. Stop enabling jewish businesses.

>>2771745
No I will not.

>>2772004
i dont think this pic you posted does you any justice. it's not like you are giving any based replies here. it's not even shitpost because you truly believed what you gave was good advice.

modify it to say "a total fucking retard is talking. listen and be amazed that i can vote and have same rights as you" if you want to attach this in future with your replies.

>>2772017
Stop kvetching just because you hear the word chargeback Schlomo.

>>2772021

>>2772022
topkek

>>2772004
Not additional order(s), but I had to cover shipping costs for the "free" parts. Or pay someone else 60$+ shipping for the shit he messed up.

>>2770904
those aren't even to scale. interesting idea tho

>>2771967
it's ok, the voron is shit anyway

>>2772198
Don't even have to think about scale with the scanner as opposed to the camera, that's the best part about it.

>>2771875
>>2771889
No
>>2771876
Close but no

SD card was full.
After formatting the lines are gone.

Having enabled
[homing_heaters]
steppers: stepper_z
heaters: extruder,heater_bed
I expect klipper to heat the bed up to the set bed temp before probing the next point. But no! It just keeps probing as the bed heat is turned off during the entire mesh building process. Great.

>>2772263
....nnigga so move the heating before probing ??

>>2772264
I want to probe a hot bed, but have the bed heater momentairly turn off while the bl touch is probing. It gives me one more decimal of accuarcy if the bed heater is off. But klipper has no good logic to handle this. The move time is significantly less than the probing time. So the bed just cools off, because klipper doesn't check the temp and paus for it to heat back up again in between probing. The alternative is to simply probe the bed cold. Honestly that doesn't seem so great. Marlin handled this perfectly.

>>2772269
I fucking love Marlin.

>>2772269
Wouldn't keeping the pid loop on the heated bed give you more accuracy compared to ensuring the heated bed is off when probing? Feels like the latter will vary in temperature worse. I'm assuming the bed isn't getting bang-bang controlled and is PWM'd with at least 50Hz frequency.

>>2772271
Marlin is pretty nice. What am I missing by not using Klipper?

>>2772273
>Marlin is pretty nice. What am I missing by not using Klipper?

imo was the reason for the switch was having to reflash marlin whenever you make changes, adding bltouch, for example, while in klipper I just modify a file through the webui on the SBC, and thats it.

>>2772263
So write a gcode macro.
Obviously.

>>2772278
Sounds like a non-issue for a guy who writes microcontroller code on occasion. Also I know that some marlin firmwares make more variables and features accessible via the menu screen (PID autotune, etc.) wouldn't it be possible to make the things you might want to tune more often be doable from the menu screen? Things like linear advance. Maybe you could replace the retraction distance in the slicer with a macro, and have that macro be interpreted on the printer itself, so you could tune retraction while printing. Just seems like there's a lot of potential for customisability in Marlin.

>>2772269
>Marlin handled this perfectly.
Welcome to klipper, enjoy your suffering.
Just wait until you find out that the compensation is completely fucking random. It's a dice roll if the compensation actually fits your bed mesh or it just ignores that and pulls random values out its ass.
2 weeks ago I was trying to flash the klipper host on an MMU mainboard and the option to flash for an RP2040 was fucking missing entirely. Had to dig up all the relevant files from github and place them on the Pi myself.
Another thing is from back in December when I tried to set up the Pi as an MCU and the documentation instructions were wrong, picrel.
I don't know how they can fuck up so badly and still have every 3D print youtuber sucking their cock like candy.

Pic of the documentation commands vs the commands I got by strongarming the GPT bot in the klipper discord

>>2772284
Seems to me like the RP2040 hasn't been adapted for 3D printers, at least when I looked into it last year.

You do post issue reports on the github, right?

>>2772283

the closest thing to coding is doing gcode macros. There is a thing called "klipperscreen" which supports a number of monitors/touch screens. I only have klipper screen on one of my printers. the rest I just go through web ui and modify the config files. Which btw I meant to say its config files not like modifying source code.

what you are asking might be possible, if interested you can browse through their docs https://www.klipper3d.org/Overview.html

>>2772288
>Seems to me like the RP2040 hasn't been adapted for 3D printers,

My bigtreetech skr pico uses rp2040, my nitehawk-sb uses rp2040, maybe you a re meaning something differently than what I am thinking

>>2772288
>Seems to me like the RP2040 hasn't been adapted for 3D printers
It's not very popular because it runs micropython instead of the usual C++ that Atmegas and STMs do.
In any case the board had flashing instructions for klipper and in their pic of the menuconfig they had the RP2040 as an option. I did not.
>You do post issue reports on the github, right?
No, my time is better spend doing things that actually help instead of bitching at others to fix it for me.
I'm never getting back that one hour I spent covertly prompting some shitty LLM to actually spit out information that is more accurate than klipper's official documentation.

>>2772291
>It's not very popular because it runs micropython instead of the usual C++ that Atmegas and STMs do.
I mean, optionally. The RP2040 is supported by PlatformIO, and Marlin, the usual Arduino libs, etc. You can program it in pretty much whatever language you want so long as there's a functional toolchain, it's just a microcontroller.

>>2772291
>It's not very popular because it runs micropython instead of the usual C++ that Atmegas and STMs do.
I mean, optionally. The RP2040 is supported by PlatformIO, and Marlin, the usual Arduino libs, etc. You can program it in pretty much whatever language you want so long as there's a functional toolchain, it's just a microcontroller.

>>2772288
Marlin's supported the RP2040 and the SKR Pico since 2022.

>>2772284
>Welcome to klipper, enjoy your suffering.
Thanks! I think i will suffer. 27C.

>>2772302
105C.

>>2772303
Disgusting.

>went to a trade show
>a 3d printer company has their top model on display
>it has a built in laser micrometer for making adjustments on the fly
>massive parts with crazy small layers in record time
>$65,000
I wish I could remember the name of it. I think I'll need to convince my boss to get one like it

>>2772315
Was it a powder printer? I went to this complete fucking waste of time conference where me and all the other corporate drone teachers spent the entire day getting hustled by sponsors and this dick head gave us this whole speech about how easy his company's printers were before quietly revealing that the cheaper options start at twelve thousand fucking dollars.

>got my first V400 on Monday
>bought another two minutes ago

luv dem kids

>>2772318
I got to use a powder printer back in like 2005. No idea why my high school even had it, desu. Nobody else in my class showed any interest in it, but a kid from the class before me used it to make a gunpla torso. I modeled and printed a Tron light cycle. It's still sitting on my dad's shelf I think.

>>2772318
No I think it was fdm

>>2772336
watching some show about powder printers and a guy made a forearm flashlight prototype for firefighters by painting the thing that came out of the machine was what got me hooked on printing.

Any recommendations for large format professional printers in the $3,000-$4,000 range?
looking at a Bambu and Prusa XL.
I make semi large flat parts to sell.
speed and reliability is King.

>>2772394
annex k3

>>2772290
>>2772295
Oh ok. A look around and all the boards I could see used STM32s or maybe SAMDs, as opposed to RP2040s. I only found it notable because STM32s are rife with clones, the RP2040s are cheap enough that they seem to be left alone, for now. Not too fond of the requirement for external progmem though.

>>2772291
Misinformed, it uses an ARM core just like any other ARM MCU, obviously you can compile C code for it. And that's what lots of people do, including the marlin builder in platformio.

>>2772303
0.4mm shims around the outside and you should be fine. Maybe someone has written code to cut out the right shapes for shimming a bed from multiple layers of aluminium foil. Or take the billet bed pill.

>>2770366
they plan nozzle trajectories like autists. use ABS

>>2772394
Bambu X1C yes, Prosa XL no, at least for a production environment (and get multiple rather than a single XL). May even want to look into the X1E, simply because of the local support contract it comes with to minimise downtime. Prod means shitting out parts reliably: the X1C/X1E are reliable, the Prusa XL is... well, if you like hacking things you can get decent results. Get a bunch of build plates to hot-swap part changes between runs. Also, don't overlook the AMS: even for monomaterial printing, the filament-failover-on-exhaustion support means you can just fill it with the same material and swap spools on occasion rather than needing to manually re-feed whenever a spool runs out.
In general, and unbox-and-print printer will be preferable to a self-build for production work, as it means your support staff becomes "whoever is nearby and can swap a ready spare part that is just sent to you in the mail" rather than a dedicated department.
I'd recommend a loop bed printer for prod work, but those are a poor fit for flat parts due to the angled build interface.

>>2772408
I ordered a cast aluminium CNC milled bed. In think for $120 it's a pretty good price. I was thinking about possibly just buying a fucking floor tile, but unsure of how flat they really are.. And also, would they crack if probing failed and the nozzle would dive into the middle of the bed? Surley there must be a reason why nobody has started using them after a decade of hobbyist 3d printing fucking arounding and finding outing? I also happen to have a 6mm hardned float glass from before but drilling into it would be impossible... Plus i never liked printing on glas. It was a bitch to get PETG to stick to it. And I loathed the bed clips. Regardless of my ramblings, im going to do the Hydra mod so this bed has all the mounting holes for it.

>>2772408
>Oh ok. A look around and all the boards I could see used STM32s or maybe SAMDs, as opposed to RP2040s. I only found it notable because STM32s are rife with clones, the RP2040s are cheap enough that they seem to be left alone, for now. Not too fond of the requirement for external progmem though.

to be fair though, skr pico is barely enough of a board to be used for 3d printing, and most likely maxed rp2040 capabilities, imo it would be better suited as toolhead canbus like nitehawk-sb and other variants.

>>2772269
>unironically using a buggy pile of shit OS to power your 3dprinter
seems like the fault of no one else but your own nigga

Should I buy this

>>2772451
Or This. I already own an ender 3 v2. With upgraded metal extruder, yellow springs and spider 2.0.

My current printer is out of commission because I printed the wrong fan shroud and it would he nice to have a back up printer next time.

I could just wait till the library opens or my college but I'm impatient and I don't want to always wait on their schedule

>>2772451
i think the build volume is great for the price. i'd grab it instantly just for the build volume.
small buildplate is one of the things that will grief you time to time. i think that would be a nice second plan when you need it

>>2772452
What store is this?

>found 3D printer at goodwill
>wants $100 for a Voxellabs aquila with a broken heated bed

>>2772451
>>2772452
>buying creality shit
>Buying broken creality shit
Stop

>>2772451
No. Too expensive for an old model that isn't even functional out the box.
If you can get it at like 100$ or less, maybe.
Also stop getting zucc'd retard.

>>2772394
Bambu isn't large format, the more expensive one is just taller with a heated chamber. Bambu doesn't have large format yet.

Heard nylon is a good material for durability, but the OP has no results for the recommendations section. Are all the nylon capable printers controversial?

>>2772451
Literally double the price it should be, don't waste your money, I've bought new Cr10 clones for less. $75 would be generous, $50 would be fair.

>>2772482
Nylon is ass to print, if you want functional prints use ASA or PETG, petg being the main go to. If you are feeling adventurous PCTG.

>>2772497
>nylon
Just dry it.

>>2772511
and heat it to temperature where teflon turns into formaldehyde
and heat the build plate to temp you can fry an egg on
and build a box around it to shield it from gusts of wind
and keep that heated too
and keep the filament heated too, lest it gobbles up moisture
and then print slower than one-legged grandma crossing the road

>>2772559
I've had way better luck with printing nylon with a cold bed. I currently print at 25°c and it seems to help.

>>2772559
Works on my computer.

>>2772576
Just cold bed? No adhesive? What bed material?

>>2772474
Microcenter

>>2772582
I've got the creality coated glass bed, and a tent enclosure on an ender three (v2 neo).
I tired running the bed hot, and if anything it seemed to warp more.
I didn't come up with the idea of printing nylon on a cold bet though, I got the idea from Hoffman tactical from an older video of his on how to print his ar lowers.
But it seems to work for me regardless, and would be worth at least testing if a part warping so hard it peels is a problem.

>>2772488
>don't waste your money, I've bought new Cr10 clones for less
Where

>>2772476
I'm not buying Bambu, I'm not buying Prussia. Might as well build a voron.

What are the go-to prints to improve an Ender 3? So far mine is stock save for a new floppier bed.

>>2772701
you could print a z-screw stabilizer and some cable chains, but honestly most of the actually function upgrades for it are going to be replacing the shitty stock parts like the extruder, the mainboard if you've got an older model, adding an auto-leveler, etc.

Anyone making money off their prints? how goes the business?

>>2772703
aight fuck it then. Got another v400 coming in soon and I'm never getting another Ender 3. Are Bamboo X1C's the next step up from the v400?

>>2772704
I tried making a website for custom prints but no customers

>>2772693
Watching for sales, coupons, etc. I got my Creasee CS30 brand new for $125, best deal I've ever gotten on a printer by far. It's just a generic shitbox no-name "we slapped some printer parts together and maybe it's a functional machine" Chinese printer that I definitely don't recommend but was exactly what I wanted. It's a work-horse, but I don't print with it often. I put a simple tool-changer (or whatever you want to call it) on there so I can easily swap between the printhead and using a drag-knife, pens/pencils/markers, laser, or $10 Harbor Freight rotary tool. I use it as a drag-knife most often, that thing has cut a shitload of vinyl.
3dprintingdeals.com is decent, fueled by affiliate links, occasionally they catch some good stuff. "Unrepaired" printers are also a fun option, you can grab an Ender 3 for $65 or a V2 Neo for $100. It's a gamble, but one I've had very good luck with.

>>2772743
This advice was how I got my geeetech a10t way back in the day. It’s a shit box printer but it does 3:1 color mixing and I got it as a “defective return” from their ebay store when my voron broke. It literally had nothing wrong with it, was like $80 shipped, runs the current build of marlin no problem, I added a bltouch I had leftover from another thing and it just worked without any headaches. Now I have a backup for when my voron gets fucked but tbf 99.999999% of the time I use that or the resin printer
But if you want a cheap first printer this is definitely a viable option. Though keep in mind there’s a chance you do actually get one that is totally fucked I guess

I've got some cool STLs I've made. Where can I sell them for profit? Is there any way to avoid someone buying them and then spreading them for free or selling the printed parts?

>>2772818
lol

>>2772818
Stop trying to profit off of shit literally anyone can do. If you want to make money off your skill, post that shit for free then be open to commissions and requests

>>2772820
No fuck off I'm better than you. You pay me for my model.

>>2772818
>>2772822
*pays you then charges back*

>>2772822
Describe your model or post screenshots of its so cool and worth money and can’t just be easily recreated by anyone with half a brain who’s spent 2 months playing with any kind of cad

>>2772820
There are a million clueless retards with a 3d printer who soley print useless crap they downloaded off printables/thingiworse.

>>2772850
literally me

>>2772818
Add a watermark to know who did it. If you don't do it right I can spoof the watermark and you'll intimidate an innocent customer.

Well it would have been nice if I actually calibrated my printer for single wall lightweight prints before I printed half a kilogram. Overall the result is acceptable.

>>2772918
The good news is I'm actually learning about settings and how to calibrate.

>>2772918
Calibrating printers is not a real thing.

How could you improve my phone stand?

>>2772931
Circles added to each corner of the case that you fit pins into.

>>2772934
I'm unexpectedly impressed, bravo!

>>2772818
If you've already made the .stl, it's worthless. There is value in creating custom models on commission, your existing generic models have no value.

>>2772818
screenshots, so we can laugh at you

>>2772931
Velcro. Not better, different.

Is the v400 the best delta on the market currently aside from enterprise shit?

>>2773012
Bought one and bought another within a week of the first. It takes 30 minutes to put together and the auto-leveling is a god send after fucking with the Ender 3 for so long. 10/10

Only question I have is if a Bamboo X1C is a significant improvement for being almost three times the price?

>>2773020
>auto-leveling
what kind of sensor does that use? i see the nozzle is used as the probe tip

>>2769757
Does anyone make money with 3d printing? I just have one Ender 3 v 2 and I don't want to start a print farm. I'd like to sell models online but that seems like a limited market (since your buyers need to have a 3d printer as well)

>>2773012
Looking into it Flsun seems to be releasing a new delta that has some pretty bold claims.
They say it can hit 1200mm/s Max Speed and 40000mm/s 2 Acceleration.
Sounds like typical Chinese marketing bullshit but if true that's pretty huge.

>>2773042
iirc tof laser

>>2773047
Either get paid to commission a 3d model or print stuff to sell. Ideally print on commission or after the item is ordered.

You will need to improve your quality settings.

I have a buzzer wired up to BR/PB2 and GND on EXP1
..but its woefully low in volume. Presumably because BR/PB2 is 3.3V/5V
1) given that this is the same EXP1 spec as per the old reprap LCD screens, and the buzzer on the one of those I had was always quite loud (iirc), why should this be any different?
2) Whats the easiest way to find out if a pin has PWM or not? Obviously anyhting that can heat a heater will, but is there some trivial way to identify all of them?
3) does anyone have a pwm buzzer attached to TH2 or similar high current output's pins?

I'm looking to get into 3D printing, mainly for computer components. That includes motherboard trays, which are about 305 by 330 rectangles at the biggest I'd want to print them. As far as I understand it, doing that in one piece would need a bigass printer.
Is it worth getting something like the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max or is there a better method or system for what I want?

>>2773114
Printing it in pieces and super gluing it together works well for some of the large parts I make

>>2773112
>why should this be any different
PB2 will almost certainly be 3.3V, while the buzzer on the reprap may well have been 5V. That could definitely make such a difference. It may also be that the MCU can't source much current to the buzzer directly. If it's a self-oscillating buzzer that just wants DC, you can use a transistor like a 2N7000 or BSS138 to switch the buzzer, probably off a nearby 5V header (e.g. jumper off EXP2). If you buy a buzzer module (buzzer soldered to a tiny PCB) it may already have such a transistor on it. If it's a piezo or dynamic driver that wants AC, you'll want some sort of half-bridge to drive it. Piezos are kinda bad on low voltages but shouldn't draw much current, while dynamic drivers may draw a lot of current but can work fine at low voltages.

>Whats the easiest way to find out if a pin has PWM or not
Read the datasheet. For example, if you had an STM32F103C8T6, in the "pin definitions" table on the abbreviated datasheet (117 pages), pin PA2 says TIM2_CH3 under the column "Default", and PB10 says TIM2_CH3 under the column "Remap". This means that timer 2's third channel is normally wired up to PA2, but you can change a register to make flip it to PB10 instead. All timer channels should be PWM capable, and I'd imagine your firmware knows the default and remapped pins for all its timers and so can adapt if you define a remap pin as a timer. That said, if PA2 is being used to PWM your heater block, obviously you won't be able to get PWM out of PB10 because that channel is currently being used. So double check whichever pin you want to use.
It may also be the case that the firmware can use interrupts and/or bit-banging to get PWM (probably at a low frequency) out of pins that don't natively support PWM. That's something to read the docs of your firmware for.

>TH2
Isn't that for a thermistor sensor? Why would it be a high-current pin?

>>2773123
Yup. Thats what I thought.
I've tried a DC buzzer (presumably just a piezo), a tiny speaker, and an actual piezo disk, all seem equally weak.

>half-bridge
oh yeah...good idea.
The beeper code found in various klipper gists does look like it would benefit from the other half of the power sin wave. Double the volume minus the 0.7V silicon drop, presumably.

>transistors
I'm hesitant to add any mixing of voltages for something this trivial if I can avoid it.

>datasheet
i meant to say 'inb4 rtfm' in my OP

>remap firmware
afaik all of this can be done in printer.cfg....right?

>TH2
I should have said HE1 or 2.
I never plan to have more than one hotend on this machine, and those pins do have the required voltage/current to drive pretty much anything.
Unless i'm mistaken they would be the obvious choice. Except that maybe the raw amperage there might be an issue.

I'm making a little Gridfinity holder for my threading dies. I printed a few without the highlighted area to see how well everything would stay in place when it was lined up in the drawer with others, but it sucks, so I'm printing the missing bit and adding it to the ones I already made. Does CA glue hold to PLA well, or should I weld the piece on? I've got one of those 3d printing pens I can use the tip of to weld with.

What's happening here? I use regular PLA settings for LW-PLA and for the life of me, can't get this thing to finish printing. It's always deforming after a certain height, even when I print at like 35mm/s.

>>2773381
>I use regular PLA settings for LW-PLA
Well, don't do that then? And get your brain damage checked out.

>>2773381
Stop using LW-PLA
Use ABS if you need lightweight, leave the foaming meme to the kiketubers

>>2773405
It's pre-foamed, so what else would I use?
>>2773427
too heavy

>>2773465
Learn how to mold styrofoam at home and try not to kill yourself in the process.

>>2773506
>try not to kill yourself in the process
Is it the nerve gas?

>>2773047
Just buy a tube of EP2 grease for like $10. Then repack it in plastic syringes costing $1. Everybsyringe gets 20ml per, and sell to dumbasses for $10 per syringe. You just need to be completley shameless to ask this price but morons will probably buy it.

>>2773531
What the funniest thing about this is that readding lubrication for the most part is completely and utterly unnecessary.

Can anyone show or tell me how bambu cool their hotend heatsinks?
I've never seen one in detail and all the images i see seem to fixate on the outer shell.

>>2773557
wdym they use a fan
the fan blows air on the heatsink

>>2773559
i want to see it
search seems to have no idea what they look like
https://yandex.com/images/search?from=tabbar&text=bambu%20hotend

>>2773564
Anon it's literally in the picture you posted

>>2773567
no asshat
thats me making assumptions and stuffing my own mockups together

BUT I WANT TO SEE SOME ACTUAL REFERENCES

>>2773570
Well I don't know what to tell you man, that's literally what it is, it's a fan strapped to the heatsink

>>2773570
3 seconds on google

>>2773508
Styrene's nasty.

>>2773157
HE1 or HE2 should work well for turning on a DC buzzer, but possibly not for sending a square wave to a piezo.

I need a CAD file for the bumper of an obscure car. Want to get it made in steel. Is there a leak of the SEMA files somewhere or am I going to have to hire someone to design this for me?

i think my bed level just shit the bed. Im using ender 3 neo, and i did a bed leveling, but this weird shit still keep habbening - one side is practically melted and other is a fucking dune desert.

i feel like my glass bed is warped, but im not sure. Im using a new unknown filament and tried out 0.3 nozzle right now, i hope it isnt the case. Any ideas?

>>2773654
Is your bed parallel to the X and Y axes? Auto-levelling can only do so much. Do a manual level with paper like the old days for once, might help you out.

>>2773654
Assuming your machine has independent motors for both sides of the Z axis, they are working, and you didnt start a print without homing X, Y Z0 and Z1.....
Check that all of your hotend components aren't wiggling around or otherwise coming loose.

>>2773574
That ones kinda what i wanted to see.
I was only getting non-bambu results and videos where I only got glimpses of what i was trying to understand.
But I did, of course, find pics to clarify how it works about 5 seconds after our little joust.

>>2773673
Well on the plus side it seems like you had guessed shit pretty accurately, so good on you

>>2773047
I've made money selling random stuff to colleagues. They'd seen stuff I'd made and asked me to do stuff such as:
-Discontinued parts for stuff
-Keyrings
-Custom guitar picks
-Rocktopuss

I also sell stuff of my own design on Etsy, not made a lot from it as I'm only selling stuff thats around £5~. After fees and postage I end up with about £4 per item. The stuff on there is kinda niche and has a small market, but the advantage of that is if you search for the stuff I sell I'm on the first page. If you have a hobby and can 3D print parts for that hobby it might be worth looking into also selling it on Etsy

>>2773654
I used to have that printer and getting a good first layer across the whole bed was a nightmare. I spent countless hours fucking with it and never got a perfect first layer for large prints

>>2773330
CA glue worked, but the fit wasn't great, so I just used a dot to hold it in place and welded it. Pretty happy with how it turned out, it was a good learning experience for a first model.

>>2773726
Those are big nuts.

>>2773726
Nice. I didn't understand what you were going for at first, but I like this.

>>2773797
Thanks! I'm really happy with how it turned out, especially the label slot. They go in easy, but with that hole barely cutting into the rounded corner, there's enough of a lip to keep them from coming out on accident. Gonna tweak it a bit and also make a matching one in regular Gridfinity size before I upload.

I'm running an original Ender 3 that's had the mainboard swapped out to the silent version and just recently got the sprite pro installed and working on it. Thinking about trying to fuck around with print speed to see if I can get this thing to go faster reliably since I think realistically it should be able to hand more than what I'm pushing it to currently. Anyone done any testing on a similar setup before to see what it could handle? Right now I've just got it running at 60mm/s and haven't noticed any issues that could be attributed to speed so I'm sure I can go higher, but not sure where I should start or what the best methodology for starting to dial that in would be. Should I just start bumping it up 10mm/s each time I print something until I start seeing issues, or is there a much higher starting point I should just be able to jump to? Any good models to use for calibrating this kind of thing specifically?

what spaghetti detector is everyone using? shill free please/no trial versions

i know of detector2 but that shit hasnt detected a single mess for me

>>2773832
Print a volumetric flow tower test. After you estsblished how much goo your german goo girl can reliably throw up after a party, you should then print a speed and acceleration tower, make sure you don't print at a layer height×width that goes past your max volumetric flow.

Now I can record video on my phone...

Ive been doing some work to my printer and seem to have run into a wall. My printer is cartesiasn design with dual y steppers, LDO super power driven by btt 5160t plus. One is working perfectly, but the other is giving me this error:
TMC 'stepper_y1' reports error: DRV_STATUS: 001f5000 s2vsa=1(ShortToSupply_A!) stealth=1 csactual=31
which seems to be about incorrect current estimation by the driver. One fix is to disable stealthchop, but I'd like a better one. Anyone experienced this before? I also had the same issue with my extruder stepper before disabling chop.

>>2774012
If that’s the error code, “ShortToSupply” could mean one of the MOSFETs is dead short-circuit. Measure with a DMM if you can. Unplug the stepper motor and see if you get the same issue. If it doesn’t seem to be a hardware issue, see about reflashing it’s firmware.

>>2773918
>what spaghetti detector is everyone using
The classic 'wtfisthatsound' type.

>>2774076
>>what spaghetti detector is everyone using
Mk.1 eyeball and self-generated audible alarm.

>>2774012
Can I ask why you would go all out with HV 5160t plus drivers and expensive as fuck motors just to then cut your own dick off by enabling stealth chop? You should run that set up in SpreadCycle to take full advantage of the driver and motors.

Who was commenting on CAN Bus recently?

I keep wanting to put the boards I have to use (skipr, THR42, UTC) in cleaning up all the wire I have running to my hotend. But every time i do a few searches and spend a few hours reading all the same shit about it being an undocumented clusterfuck, i get demotivated, and my shiny new boards stay in their boxes.

Is there a useful instructional document that actually gets it working on the skipr boards?

What are the caveats? I noticed it said that UART isnt an option... but isnt that the 2x2pin molex connector? If so doesnt that mean I need to use usb or something?

If the THR42 sits at the hotend, and the skipr has onboard CAN, do I even need the UTC? (I actually only bought it as a backup, or use on a different board, or for use on the skipr if that offered a better solutuion to something broken/missing there.)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004984153336.html

>>2773918
My Prusa never makes spaghetti :)

>>2774166
I was using chop with 2208s and stock creality motors and haven't tested the new stuff without yet. I'll give it a try but have just been trying to get the machine running like normal again. The motors aren't even that expensive either, i guess compared to aliexpress chinesium they might be but they sure aren't clearpath servos.

I invented a printer that combines extrusion with sewing technology to give you printed parts with interwoven layers so there would be uniform strength and no more weak seams. But the glowies took it from me and zapped my brain with their satellite rays making me unable to build another one. One of you need to continue my research

>>2774244
Have the machine pause every layer and stretch the fabric across it then resume? Make sure it's not meltable and is sparse enough to get good contact for the layers to stick together. Or are you talking about something like markforged's continuous carbon fiber printer?

I am so sick of these cheap ass creality printers. What the fuck is wrong with this? Why arent my prints printing correctly? Why are the upper parts like this? I'm probing 225 spots on with bl touch and yet somehow the z offset still doesnt match the print bed. How is this even possible? How can my printer have the blue spot which the bed visualizer marks, like physically it isnt even possible. Why are the z offsets fucked up on the upper parts of my prints, like I cant even understand how that could be possible when the probe tramming reports that corners are okay and rest of the bed gets completely probed, how can the prints STILL be fucked up.
I'm really hoping someone can point me in the right direction or tell me what I could check because I feel like I will be losing my nogging any fucking minute now. All rollers are properly tight, nothing slipping yet nothing so overtightened that it's stuck. Belts are tightened. X gantry is at same level at both 0 and 300 positions. Bed doesnt wobble. Everything should be great but nothing prints great.

>>2774280
Not reading all of this lil bro. Looking at your image I went through this with my neptune. Trying to troubleshoot it and get the bed right for a whole week before I returned that piece of shit and bought a shitbu p1p.

>>2774280
Probing such a tiny bed is a waste of time. Your typical $15 Chinese 235x235 heated bed only has ~0.2-0.3mm variation when cold, and about half that at 100C. Turn off bed leveling, tram your bed, print. When you have it working perfectly that way, then consider turning on bed leveling and fucking with it so you can pull off a corner-to-corner print.

>>2774302
Nigga. I cant even get a middle of the print bed print going.
The corners are done, I start corners by manually getting the nozzle close to the bed and then using the marlin corner tramming feature. The point is that it seems like I have done everything I can with this printer to get it printing correctly yet my results are dogshit

>>2774305
Then give us some info. What printer, what mods, stock mainboard?, stock firmware?, what firmware, share your config, startup g-code.

>>2774305
>>2774307
Also, restart the printer (power cycle it) and grab an M503. If you've not done this before: https://youtu.be/13XDMQ6UWy4?t=55
Connect to printer, send M503, share the output, screenshot or pastebin.

>>2774307
Ofcourse. CR10, stock mainboard. Newest marlin 2.1.2.2. I also added a pic of my cura startup config. But I'm not sure how all this could help with the problem that I am having.
I'm printing at 60C bed, 200c nozzle/245c first layer. Adhesion is not the problem, from the pictures you can see that it's the z-offset which matches in most parts but again doesn't match at other parts.
Here's a pastebin with my settings from M503
https://pastebin.com/1niF179W

>>2774316
>M851 X-41.60 Y-9.90 Z-1.17
Unusual location for probe, what kinda hotend/probe setup you have here?
If you could share your Marlin configs, both configuration and configuration_adv, that would be helpful, I don't see anything obvious yet.

>>2774232
>>2774035
I swapped the y1 driver with the x driver and now both work with no errors. Government sending machine spirits through the 5G to waste 30 minutes of my time again as usual.

>>2774170
IDK what exactly you know, I am most likely repeating stuff you know.

I recently did the nitehawk-sb with umbilical mod to my trident, idk if I ever brought that up, but anyways, I looked these up because the aliexpresss link is broken for me, these look similar to the BigTreeTech 36/42 they have.

>I noticed it said that UART isnt an option... but isnt that the 2x2pin molex connector? If so doesnt that mean I need to use usb or something?

According to the pinout here
>https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-SKIPR/blob/main/hardware/MKS%20SKIPR%20V1.0_002/MKS%20SKIPR%20V1.0_002%20PIN.pdf

the pins on that 2x2 is ground, vin, canl, canh, which could also be canrx, cantx, or pb12, pb13.

>If the THR42 sits at the hotend, and the skipr has onboard CAN, do I even need the UTC?

from schematics I linked earlier, it appears the serial from the 2x2 pin goes through MCU (STM32 chip) then uses serial from stm32 to raspberry pi which would be doing the same thing if you used UTC and then connect the UTC to the rpi.

but the VIN pin in the schematic is called "pwr-in" at some point I would power the skipr with a power supply and see if VIN pin has 24v with a multimeter. If it doesn't you would just send 24v from skipr to thr42
>https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-THR36-THR42-UTC/blob/main/hardware/MKS%20THR42%20V1.0_001/PCB%20%20MKS%20THR42%20V1.0_001%20PIN.pdf

github seems to have useful information
https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-SKIPR
https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-THR36-THR42-UTC/tree/main

install seems straight forward if you are using klipper, I have no idea if you are using different firmware.

You guys think it will be ok to put my 3D printer on a steel rack shelf? Not sure about the vibrations and if it will rattle. The P1P gets shaky. Right now I have it on the floor but if I get a steel rack I can use the wasted space above the printer.

>>2774473
If it's not stable enough, you get to design and print supports to make it more stable. It's all part of the hobby anon, get into it, all of your problems can be solved with more printing, making no regard for practicality, price, or efficacy.

>>2774447
All useful info. It's difficult to define what I know becasue i am essentially a fast learning noob with respect to this CAN stuff, and I have read a lot of mixed information on this board specifically, so my headpsace on it isnt so clear.

>UART
Ok, so then what are people talking about with wanting UART on a board that cant do it (SKIPR)? I dont understand if its just a control mechanism like with drivers, or if its a transmission line like the usb or can cable. I had initially assumed it was the transmission cable, becasue everything I read related to getting it talking to a remote MCU.

It looks like you are where most people seem to be as far as knowledge of SKIPR/CAN goes. We all assume it should be stright forward until we either try, or research how, *specifically* to do it.
Then we see that some people have it working, but what that means is never elucidated, or if they are using it to drive a hotend, or have simply blinked an LED and obtained superiority over the masses who cant do the thing. How they did seems never to be explained fully in logical steps.

>klipper
of course. I spent the first few years flashing marlin and reading its if if if if if bullshit. Never again.

>but the VIN pin in the schematic is called "pwr-in"
I'm not sure why thats contentious for you. And I havent tested it, but I'm pretty sure it will be whatever supply voltage is.

>>2774473
flimsy as fuck, enjoy your ringing artifacts

I have two 2000x1800x600 like this.
One has two 55" TVs and a bunch of computers on it, the other is a 3dprinting/soldering workbench. The top surface of the shelf panels is only thin metal, but the shelf supports and main frames are very solid.
I put 3mm MDF sheet down on the shelves (basically just to get it out of my way, but its turned out to be an excellent buffer between the sehlf and...) a bunch of 300x600x10mm floor tiles for the workbench shelf, the rest of the shelves are just stock standard. Its a really solid setup.

>>2774473
like these, note the different frame:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/311887631116
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/122549337365

also: I have a smaller unit similar, if not the same as your pic, and its ok for tinned food, but only because i assembled it as two half sized shelves, not one tall one. Theres no way I'd trust that shit to anyhting even remotely heavy stacked that high, the first time someone kicked a leg hard enough the whole thing would collapse if it was loaded, and it will wiggle AND vibrate like crazy even with with a printer on it.
Nope.
Not unless you can bolt it to the wall.

>>2774539
>>2774473

>>2774495
I like your post because it highlights just how fucking stupid certain 3dp nerds are.

>>2774537
>Ok, so then what are people talking about with wanting UART on a board that cant do it (SKIPR)? I dont understand if its just a control mechanism like with drivers, or if its a transmission line like the usb or can cable. I had initially assumed it was the transmission cable, becasue everything I read related to getting it talking to a remote MCU.

Your guess is as good as mine, sorry. If you happen to have links referencing this I could read to better understand, if you don't no worries.

>It looks like you are where most people seem to be as far as knowledge of SKIPR/CAN goes. We all assume it should be stright forward until we either try, or research how, *specifically* to do it.
Then we see that some people have it working, but what that means is never elucidated, or if they are using it to drive a hotend, or have simply blinked an LED and obtained superiority over the masses who cant do the thing. How they did seems never to be explained fully in logical steps.

This is why I give up easily on stuff, which kind of sucks since I feel like im needing my hand to be held. At github for THR42, you scroll down they have instructions on settingup with klipper, and how to find the canbus id
>https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-THR36-THR42-UTC

My guess is that you would connect the wires into the 4 pin molex, and run that straight to thr42 find the canbus id and put that in your config. When in doubt find different hardware using the same chip and see if their installation carries over to what you are doing.

>>2774473
Put printer on slab, put slab on sorbothane, problem solved. X1C happily wiggles away on a flimsy Ikea shelf that remains rock solid.

>>2774546
Anon proving that "/s" is still required, as morons are still allowed to roam free on the internet unsupervised.

>>2774547
>My guess is that you would connect the wire

Yeah; do all the obvious things, and then after several days of wondering why it wont work you become yet another one of the people missing that key element that someone else did to make it work.
I guess I'll try to tackle it when I have nothing else to do or print. I was just hoping someone knew what the catch was.

>>2774473
If you are going to buy a rack, buy a decent one.

>>2774556
Already doing something similar. Just deciding if I should get a wider rack or just have the printer sat on the floor next to it.
>>2774537
>One has two 55" TVs and a bunch of computers on it
How's that work? I'm gonna build half of the height with 3 shelves and put a CRT on top with a bunch of other shit on the bottom.
>>2774539
I usually don't care about aesthetics, but for this type I can only get the orange ones and fuck that really. I could anchor it to the wall but I'd rather not.
>>2774559
Best alternative I can find is an IKEA Bror, and I only assume it's better, because it has crossbar supports at the back.

>>2774473
eh, i'd add diagonal braces for stiffness. maybe wire with a turnbuckle for high tension, or maybe just metal strips like >>2774582. but i'd put them on all three sides

>>2774583
Where would I get them from though...

>>2774582
>How's that work?
Not sure what you mean, but it works good. I use a secretlabs gaymer chair at its lowest height to sit on, an ikea filing cabinet on wheels for a mousepad/keyboard armrest, and basically use them as dual screen PC monitors. Top one is 120Hz, bottom 60.
Havent been a gaymer for a while, but when i was I could have a teammates discord gamescreen on the bottom, and play on top.
Pretty sweet. It may not be immediately apparent just how sweet it is to play an immersive FPS on a big screen from leg-length away. I can never go back to slouching up close to a regular sized monitor.
Also nice for 3d modelling etc.
>>2774582
>I can only get the orange
where you live?
I had to look around a bit, but the solid grey, and solid blue ones were available.
Besides, emergency orange is making a statement :)
>>2774583
Theyre still garbage. The uprights are razor sharp on the ends and anywhere the edge isnt bent in on itself, the endcaps are pissweak and snap very easily as they age.
The MDF sheet those use as a shelf... will disintegrate and delaminate over time.
The whole thing is only held up by its frames inherent stiffness; the instant you make something bend or twist a little too far, or a little too sharply and its all in a heap.

Which brings me back to why i like the ones im using as a 3dprinter rack: after loading ~30kg of tiles onto it the thing its extremely solid. It was before too, but the shelf sheetmetal had a tiny bit of bounce, and noise, but now its not even going to vibrate no matter what a 3dprinter sitting on it does.
>>2774587
Some stainless cable, like for railings or laundry lines, fed and crimped at each hole, in a 2 way criss cross top to bottom... should help. Tensioners for refinement. Or rivet some sheetmetal straps to it maybe.

>>2774596
>Not sure what you mean, but it works good
Strength wise I mean. If the rack is stable with TVs and computers on it, which obviously wont vibrate and shake like a printer. I can't tell if it will be solid with a CRT on top if I don't bolt it to the wall, and these also don't have cross bars for support.
>the instant you make something bend or twist a little too far, or a little too sharply and its all in a heap
This scares me.

>>2774606
Put it this way: i can slide one side of my racks out from the wall to get in behind it. I need to be careful and slow, but iv'e done it hundreds of times to the TV rack, which has furniture felt under its feet to assist in sliding it. I guess it has 40 or 50KG of PC/TV/5-bay drive enclosures/speakers and misc stuff on it.
The other rack has probably ~100Kg of stuff on it, but once or twice I have moved it to rearrange shelves.
But I can. And the racks retain rigidity.
vs
The little rack i have canned food on, thats like the one you are considering: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/403316696000?var=673368516823
I assembled it in 2 parts, one with 3 shelves, and the other with 2. I tried to slide the smaller one over a bit shortly after assembling and half loading them, so maybe 15Kg of cans. It felt extremely perilous. Either a leg would have bent and collapsed, or a cap on a foot would have shattered. So it didnt happen.
Would not purchase again.
Zero diagonal bracing ...should tell you all you need to know.

>>2774582
just get whatever and stabilize it yourself with tension cables on the back

>>2774606
What about making an ikea lack enclosure, those are garbage too, but at least you arent buying the shittest rack solution ever made.
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=ikea+lack&page=1

>>2774619
>I assembled it in 2 parts, one with 3 shelves, and the other with 2

Fuck me cunt, that's what I want to do. Assuming if you assemble it in 2 parts the height gets cut in half. Might be sturdier if I put 4 shelves instead of 3 I guess. Why are these rated at 100kg per shelf then if you're struggling with 15. Bitchass shelves I swear.

>>2774627
becasue if you build it perfectly, sit it flat on a floor with a wall so close behind it that its touching, load it extremely evenly and NEVER BUMP IT SOMEWHAT HARD... it'll be fine.
But push it a few degrees one way or another with that much weight and it will collapse.
It's basically disposable furniture, for the lowest price.
If you are going to stack things that cost money and can break on it; dont buy the cheapest shit available.
Shit, with $100 of powertools another $100 of timber and you could make something much better. Plus have tools afterwards.

Oh, and did i mention the ?5mm? MDF as shelves is such a cheap way to do that. I thought the sheet metal on my big racks was a little cheap until i assembled the small rack.

>>2774627
>>I assembled it in 2 parts, one with 3 shelves, and the other with 2
They arent terrible like that, but mine is too narrow to fit a printer on, and I just know it would vibrate a lot.
Putting printers on top of anti vibration materials is just lame. Better to not have that shit in the first place, and if you do have some vibration of the structure, either add more diagonal bracing, or add mass. Like floor tiles, plywood etc.
Or put it on the floor.

>>2774627
>100kg per shelf
they might hold something near that with some wildly unrealistic perfectly distributed load, most likely the support structure is rated to break after that value, but the MDF shelving panels arent going to last long at 100Kg unless its 100KG of plywood thats exactly the same size as the shelf panel.
Also, it's SHORT. Almost as big as a 2xlack enclosure :)
And the tops of those uncovered risers are razor sharp.

>>2774633
I have tools I just don't have a space I can build anything. Unless I just do it on the sidewalk...
>>2774634
I've given up on putting the printer on the rack. I do however want to put a CRT, consoles, and some boxes of board games on that cheap hoe.
>>2774636
Do you mind making a webm video of you grabbing that 3 shelf bitch and yanking it yeft and right, to give me an impression of how unstable it is? Is yours anchored to the wall?

>>2774559
>Yeah; do all the obvious things, and then after several days of wondering why it wont work you become yet another one of the people missing that key element that someone else did to make it work.

IMO the problem is a lot of people treat these products like they aren't similar to what the other companies produce.

I think I found klipper discourse that you might have been talking about before.
https://klipper.discourse.group/t/mks-skipr-can-bus/5377/202?page=8

I skimmed through it, and I may have a better idea on what you are talking about, it seems people are having trouble with serial between raspberry pi, and stm32 chip, while some people got it working according to the most recent comment as of 14 days ago, but even then it seems finicky.

If the skipr and the thr42 were cheaper I would buy them and have this stuff physically in front of me and see what Icould do.