/diy/ - Do It Yourself

What have I done here?

I just took my OG Elegoo Saturn out of hibernation, replaced my busted LCD, fitted a new FEP, mounted a new magnetic build plate, printed a few cones of calibration. And decided to print my first print in ages.

Came back to a succesfull print, loaded another file that failed and realized my printer was leaking everywhere.

Turns out if ripped the FEP somehow.

I think I tensioned the FEP to around 400Hz maybe a little two tight but how on earth have I ripped the FEP if my LCD is still working it means I have punched thru the screen with a printed part.

Also now I need new tape for around the LCD, regular electrical tape doesn't stick. Any ideas?

A while ago I've seen a youtube video where a guy tested multi-material supports with "incompatible" materials like PLA and PETG, but not just those two. I remember him noting that using PLA for TPU supports is a "game changer", and in the end he had a compatibility chart for materials. I've found a couple different videos on the topic, but I can't find the chart, if anyone has it or the video I'd appreciate you sharing it.

>>2765730
Any way to save 3 year old pla to use it again safely? Also any tips for using hardened steel nozzles, I plan on printing some glow in the dark.

>>2765775
>save 3 year old pla to use it again safely
try printing with it, if it strings then dry it for 24 hours at 50-60C
>tips for using hardened steel nozzles
no, they're just like regular nozzles but have slightly worse heat conductivity so if you're printing on the absolute bleeding edge it will be a problem otherwise you will not notice a difference
>I plan on printing some glow in the dark
i have no advice for this

>>2765775
>Also any tips for using hardened steel nozzles
Bump nozzle temps up a few degrees, lower max volumetric flow a little. But solid carbide nozzles are readily available these days, so why bother with hardened steel? Carbide runs like brass and lasts way longer. If it clogs, you can torch it until it glows to burn out what's in there, without damaging the nozzle.

>>2765775
It doesnt matter unless you let moisture get into it.

i spent 4 FUCKING HOURS SHIMMING THIS BED TO GO FROM 1mm DOWN TO 0.23mm
HELP ME LORD
SAVE ME FROM THIS HELL
IF I SEE ANOTHER KAPTON TAPE I WILL HAVE SIEZURE

>>2765866
Rolling for seziure.

>>2765730
>1,296 days ago
Way to out yourself as a Eurocuck. It's December 8th, not August 12th, so 1,178 days ago. You also didn't post it in the previous thread, faggot.
Good job doing the thread number though.

>>2765896
you sound deranged
the day is more important than the month so it goes first. We don't have to wait months for mail anymore it's not 1800
The pastebin date is correct you loser

>>2765898
It's been treated as December 8th for years nigger, if you paid any attention you'd know it and keep with tradition. The fuck is wrong with you, this your first /3dpg/? I'll take the "Last Updated: Years Ago" faggots over this Eurocuck date shit.
0/10 3DPG, try harder next time.

>>2765900
I don't care what you believe it to be. The website literally says it's 12th August 2020. Can you not read? Say what you like, you are factually wrong and debased from reality.

>>2765901
Again, I can see this is your first /3dpg/, and you've done a very poor job of it. No collage, wrong date, didn't post it in the previous thread, real shameful display here.
Refer to the last 30 threads to get some idea of how it's done if you're gonna shit out threads like this you pathetic faggot.

>>2765901
>The website literally says it's 12th August 2020
It actually says Aug 12th 2020 Nigel, but nice try

>>2765740
does the lidar make that much of a difference on the x1c?
a lot of the reviews ive seen dont really talk it up that much.

Does anybody have tips for printing parts that have really small holes in them? Pic related, units are inches.

My printer is a Qidi x-pro for reference. It seems to consistently have issues with first layer bed adhesion when it prints the wall for the tiny hole. It's like it just doesn't even start to adhere to the build plate at all.

I've identified 3 main types of failure modes for bed adhesion that I see a lot, and tiny holes involve 2 of them.
The first one I see is often seen in long, straight or mostly straight lines. At first it looks like it sticks to the plate just fine but very quickly the beginning gets peeled up as the nozzle moves away, I think this is because of a little string stuck to the side of the nozzle that is connected to the first line and peels it up. (This isn't the issue I have here but would love to get advice on this because Its super frustrating)
The second failure mode is with very tiny features printed onto the build plate, regardless of if they are straight or curved. I think what is happening is that the adhesion of the molten plastic still in the nozzle is stronger than the adhesion to the build plate since it has so little surface area.

The third failure mode is seen specifically with curves on the first layer. I notice that curves with a small radius tend to not adhere much more often than a curve with a large radius. So I could have a long straight line with great adhesion and then have a sharp 90 degree angle or a really tight curve and it peels up at that spot, but if I make the curve larger and more gradual it generally works much better. When possible I try to design parts with that in mind, like external corners. But in the case of pic related part (which will have a screw threaded into it that MUST be that size and can't be made larger) I can't really do anything on the design side of things.

>TLDR: I cant get small circles to adhere to the bed, advice please?

>>2765950

In a past model I tried increasing the wall count by one in the slicer, which seemed to help a little bit, but still didn't solve the problem completely. I expect increasing it further would help more. What ends up happening in general is the hole still exists because it isnt printing inside it, but its irregular and the wrong size because the walls cant properly adhere when the first layer doesnt stick right in the first place. Again, increasing wall count helps, but it also increases the wall count for the whole part, which I dont need and results in longer print times.

I also have tried slowing down the print speed a lot on the first layer, starting at like 10mm/s (default is 20 on this machine) and even going all the way down to like 5 or 2 or even 1 some of the time, and often times the same issues happen, just in painfully slow motion. I've also played with having the print cooling fan turned on to varying levels on the first layer (default is off on the first layer) with inconclusive results.

SInce this is a duel head printer I suppose I could make a second model just for the hole part and insert that in and have it use a really high wall count, or even just print a solid block there with 0 infill and manually drill the hole out, but I feel like there has to be a simpler way to do this.

I've never used a glue stick on the print bed because I don't like the idea of gunking it up, but I might try blue painters tape is this goes on much longer. The print bed is flexible, magnetic, and removable so you can pop parts of easily, and is sort of textured so I kinda figured additional adhesion aids may not do much, but I should probably try it just in case.

>>2765950
>>2765954
Buy a PEI sheet
I print small holes all the time and they're fine. Prices for powder coated PEI sheets have come down a long way - everyone has moved to them because adhesion is so good.
Your problem isn't normal. I've printed 1.2x1.2mm columns as supports for a model and they adhere perfectly. There is really no solution in your position other than to buy a better build surface. You will waste more money in failed prints than you will spend on a powder coated PEI bed.
https://www.3djake.uk/qidi-tech/pei-build-surface

>>2765950
I had a lot of issues similar to what you were describing with first layer adhesion on sharp or tightly curved corners. What ultimately fixed it for me was

>Fixing my bed leveling
I had an autoleveling probe but turns out my initial bed level was all whacked to fuck and the mesh looked insane, the bed had some printed solid standoffs from the previous owner that had warped, so I replaced those with silicone and leveling wheels and that helped immensely

>Slowing down the first layer speed
Bear in mind I'm using an original ender 3 with some upgrades I've done to it, but I dropped my initial layer speed to like 20mm/s vs like 50mm/s for the regular speed. This I think had the biggest impact on the corners adhering from what I can remember.

>Set initial fan speed to 0
It seemed like the initial layer was probably cooling too fast and releasing from the bed where there was extra tension at the corners so turning off cooling until that first layer goes down really seemed to help.

Since I did all that, I haven't really had any issues with first layer adhesion for anything I've printed and I'm just using a regular old PEI coated spring steel bed, I don't fuck around with glue or tape or hairspray or whatever other shit

This question has been asked a thousand times already but is 3d printing profitable in any way? Is there ANY possible passive income from it? Q
I'm a cnc machinist by trade so a lot of my skills will carryover to printing so i just thought, why the fuck not?

>>2765962
Thanks, I'll have to look into that, had never heard of those before.

>I've printed 1.2x1.2mm columns as supports for a model and they adhere perfectly.
I have done similar things without issue I think. Like it will print solid cylinders just fine, its the negative space that seems to kill it. I feel like if I could have it print the outer walls first, then print the bottom layer, and THEN print the walls for the hole, it would be perfectly fine because the plastic would stick to the edges of the solid bottom layer, but the slicer insists for some reason on printing the walls for the first layer at the very beginning, where it is literally the most likely to fail... I'm almost tempted to open up the gcode file and find the first thing that looks like a circle and move it to the end of the first layer at this point, although thats not a long term solution of course.

Is there anything I can do in the short term to help with this until I get one of those?

>>2765964
>Fixing my bed leveling
Yeah I've had intermittent adhesion issues with this thing for a while. Part of the issue is that the left nozzle is ever so slightly lower than the right, and that tended to cause stuff to get peeled up or knocked over, but I've mostly fixed that by just using the left nozzle for everything. I'm starting to suspect that the build plate itself isn't actually totally flat though, as it seems that no matter how many times I try to manually level it, it always has some spots that adhere fine and others where there is too much or too little gap, no matter how much I fiddle with it. And since I constantly fiddle with it to try to fix it, I end up gradually throwing the whole thing out of whack over time and have to start over and re-level it every now and then.

>>2765968
>>2765964
>>2765962
>Set initial fan speed to 0
I thought that the opposite was true. My thinking was that if the fan speed was higher it would cool faster, and cooling faster means the window where its still soft enough to get peeled up by the nozzle and/or the plastic printed after it would be shorter, so faster cooling=better adhesion in my mind. Similarly I was thinking lower print and bed temps would be better for adhesion as well. Now that you mention it though, I suppose its possible that by being warmer and cooling slower, the liquid plastic has more time to settle into the little nooks and crannies in a textured build plate, which would let it adhere better. I wonder if I should try bumping up my temps?

Also, another quick update on exactly *how* the first layer hole fails. It seems like it actually prints the first circle/wall layer just fine, ie the inner wall is good, but when it prints the next circle around it, it picks up the whole first circle in the process. The qidi slicer has a setting for minimum time between layers, so if you set it to 7 seconds and a layer only takes 5 seconds to print, it will just sit idle for 2 seconds to let it finish cooling (although so far as I can tell it ignores it in all circumstances) and I'm wondering if there is a setting somewhere that lets you tell it to put a delay between different line types, ie inner vs outer wall layers? I think it uses the prusa slicer or if not some other open source one thats common under the hood, and qidi basically just made their own GUI and pre-made profiles for all their printers into it.

>>2765968
>Is there anything I can do in the short term to help with this until I get one of those?
It's sketchy but you can buy some sand paper and lightly sand your current bed - then drench it in isopropyl alcohol and scrub it clean.
The idea is you roughen the surface and the plastic will stick better. It will stick better but you'll make the bed 'not flat' so your leveling will be out. I have done it before, you will destroy the bed but if you're replacing it that's fine,
Other short term solutions are glue stick - it is not very good but sometimes works or you can try drying the filament you're using. Put it in the oven for 8 hours as 50C.

>>2765974
when the part cools it contracts, when it contracts, it will release from the bed if it's not already solidly stuck to it. Higher bed temp (to a point, depending on the material) and slower cooling helps prevent this

On a totally unrelated note, these captchas are completely out of control. My first post I clicked on the captcha button, and it waited for maybe 10 seconds and gave me a "click this box to make sure you're human" box which I clicked, thinking that was it. But noooooo. Next it gives me a little 30 second count down timer and I was thinking "Ok its like post timers, but for some reason before the first post as well" but again, nope! Then it lets me request the ACTUAL captcha, and its the kind that you have to move the slider bar back and forth to even find anything meaningful, and half the time when you do it still is unreadable. One of the posts took me like 5 tries to get, and if you miss more than 2 in a row it gives you a 5 or 10 second delay as punishment.

Its almost like they dont *want* you to post here...

>>2765976
does drying PLA ever help? My understanding was it was very hydrophobic and didnt absorb water at all really

>>2765866
bedslinger?
Sometimes loosening their end-constraints, rotating the rod a bit, retightening and retesting can reveal that the rods apply force to the bed, and you can mitigate this by finding the right rotation. Or flip a rod axiallyif your bed is really out of whack. The problem with this method in general is that you need to try all sorts of combinations to actually be helpful. 4 rotations x 2 rods x 2 flips
So it's better to start by loosening the constraints and rotating *a single * rod 90 deg, re-tightening, and testing the new bed mesh appearance.
Take a screenshot, and rotate the same rod again, by 90deg...screenshot... when you have rotated it a 4rd time (back to its original orientation, start the same process on the second rod.
If they are even slightly effecting the bed tension it should be apparent relatively quickly. but you wont really know how much till you test-rotate both rods, and maybe flip them end-to-end and repeat the rotations.
Sometimes it makes a big difference to beds that otherwise resist being planar, sometimes it's just an exercise in futility, and a new bed with springsteel or glass sheet is flatter.
~0.2 isnt bad though. And your image seems *relatively* regular.

>>2765982
I mean if that was true, why would they bother shipping PLA spools with desiccant packets?

I will say I leave my PLA out in the open air 24/7 and it takes me a pretty long time to go through a spool and I've never had any issues that would indicate it needs to be dried, but everything is relative.

>>2765983
it's a vcore 3.1
The bed sits on 3 ball bearings so I can't do that.
It's got a 6mm thick aluminium sheet 550x550mm which is warped by 1mm so I have no choice put to put a shit load of tape on there. Problem is that it really changes shape when put up to 60C so I have to apply the kapton tape while the bed is hot or wait 15 minutes between attempts.
I hate this thing but I take solace in the fact I only have to do it once.
https://youtu.be/bgkK7Fez8VU

>>2765985
>why would they bother shipping PLA spools with desiccant packets?

I always figured it was a matter of efficiency/scale. Like since some filaments require it like TPU or ABS or PETG and probably others, maybe its cheaper to just package all filaments the same than it is to deal with re-configuring the packaging systems every time you switch a facility to run a different filament. I could be wrong though.

>>2765982
>does drying PLA ever help?
um.... yeah....
it's like my first 3d printer level knowledge you're lacking. If your filament isn't adhering to the bed and other filaments do then you've probably got a filament problem and plastic filament doesn't adhere when wet.
So yes, dry your filament or buy a new roll and try it out.

>>2765982
PLA and PETG absorb moisture.
Often they are manufactured and packaged in relatively high humidity too, so it doesnt take much to start them popping and spitting weather or not you print them a little hot. Or small sections of otherwise flexible filament will suddenly snap. My last few rolls of PLA would snap in a dozen places inside the bowden tube overnight. It was fine while it was moving along the tube during prints, but a few hours bent against its rolled curve and it snapped every 2" or so.

>>2765982
>>2765994
I dont know where he got those numbers, presumably commercial unit's presets

>>2766007
i made them up

>>2765932
If all you use is the golded meme plate, probably not, the flow calibration will just silently fail even if enabled. If you use smooth plates (I fucking LOVE the 'cool plate', doesn't heat up the room, no fan noise because only the hotend is actually getting hot) and just throw in random filaments it's nice.
Price up a P1S plus hardened extruder and nozzles, compare it to what you can get an X1C for, and decide that way. Honestly the metal side panels were more of a draw for me than the lidar, along with an absurd local discount further closing the gap, otherwise I would have gone for the P1S instead. The motion gantry, frame, and other print components are all the same, and you can get the Panda Touch if the shitty LCD sufficiently annoys. Only thing you can't do anything about on the P1S is the turboshite webcam, because the P1 series runs on an ESP32 rather than the full Linux rig of the X1 series.

>>2766011
Yeah well they ARE in Fahrenheit, same diff.
Still, the one conversion I bothered to do for PLA: 65C seems about right for that duration. Although i was wondering if maybe being that far (5C) beyond its glass point might cause a poorly spooled roll to stretch unevenly or develop a non-uniform curve.
Fortunately I tossed those a while ago, so idc any more.

Hey FR4 enjoyer: what sheet thickness do you recommend?

>>2766028
those rolls are an abomination
at least here in europe we do things properly

>>2765903
do it better then, whiny fag
nut up or shut up

>>2766033
I think the point is that when you post a new thread slightly early, and don't abide by the unspoken agreement to just let the same person be responsible for making it each time, you better do it right or gracefully accept any and all criticism.

feast your eyes on pure art
https://github.com/lhndo/LH-Stinger/wiki/Build-Log

>>2766034
What is this undergarment and what is its purpose?

>>2766037
its what happens when you browse the thumbs of random shizz that aliexpress posts on its first page. Sooner or click some wtf is that thing and its a sex toy or other degenerate apparel, then, henceforth, and until eternity it will 'recommend' stuff like that in it's fill pages.
"cool latex rubber handsome bodysuit catsuit ganzanzug sports pants inflatable shorts halloween"

>>2765980
It punishes IP hoppers and cookie clearers.
>verification not required

I'm going to be buying my first printer. It's going to be an A1 Mini. Is this a good printer?

>>2765985
almost everything comes with desiccant packets

>>2766051
usually for a reason

>>2766048
nah, it only prints mustard gas

>>2765900
OP here. You are monumental coprophiliac faggot who absoloutley devours turds. Aside from being a deviant in that respect, how many letter combinations have you been diagnosed with in addition to your already exposed OCD and Aspergers? The pastebin was updated as of 2020-08-12 so shut the fuck up about it and keep eating your shit. There won't be a collage this time. And I'll definitley remember you if I happen to make the next thread and omit the collage out of pure spite since you've shown how much it bothers you. Tally-ho chap.

>>2766048
it's chinese so no. In a few years when we're at war with them over tiawan your printer will automatically turn on, print a chinese flag then set itself on fire and burn down your neighbourhood. It'll be like the great fire of london only caused by a 3d printer instead of a bakery.
buy a ratrig

>>2766059
>spite
The leading cause of regular-thread death.

Consider the collage as mandatory when people post interesting OC in prior thread.
Failure to collage said OC out of spite demonstrates an unsuitability to the responsibility of initiating threads.

Be responsible and impartial, or wear the pants.
>>2766034

>>2765730
>>2766059
Trash-tier OP

>>2766063
>Consider the collage as mandatory

>>2765897
>Nigga baked a thread and didn't say anything.
I fucking hate it when that happens.

>>2765950
Get a tiny drill bit

>>2765950
make the hole *almost* all the way through, so there is one layer thickness of material under it. You can drill/poke/punch it out after printing.

>>2766048
I wouldn't go with anything "mini" to start with that costs anything more than like $100. Especially not $300.
If you want a cheap little printer to mess with

>>2766106
>Get a tiny drill bit
Cant do that unless I have 100% infill which I would rather avoid

>>2766114
This is brilliant. This is absolutely fucking brilliant. Its simple and elegant. Thank you!

Trying to print this, 2 parallel surfaces and one connecting piece at about a 7-8 degree angle between them. They are offset about 20mm right now but I might need to increase that to 25 or 30mm if this doesn't fit. When I tried to print it flat with one end flat on the build plate and the other elevated 20mm, my printer shit out spaghetti everywhere so it failed and I printed it sideways instead, but it took an hour when printing it flat, it was halfway done in about 7-8 minutes.

I've only been designing parts for 3 days, is there some better way to orient this where it doesn't either take an hour for a prototype piece or poop itself trying to print like I did before? I'm using tinkercad to design and Cura to slice. Printing on a Sovol SV06.

>>2766126
Keep it in mind for any penetration, weather they interface the bottom layer or not. You'll find they are useful all over the place.

>>2766129
True, thanks!

>>2766127
When you tried printing it flat did you have support structures turned on? Or did the printer try to make supports and just failed?

>>2766131
Supports on, they looked like this. For some reason Cura fails to slice it with tree supports too

>>2766132
I had to raise the top end to 30mm off the build plate. When I put it flat with the side with bolt holes in it on top, Cura was able to make tree supports, but I'm going to do regular supports instead as it prints faster. Autism

>>2766132
Adjust the bed to the angle you want and in the slicer adust for the angle. You can get away with using way less supports that way

>>2766126
>Cant do that unless I have 100% infill which I would rather avoid
You just make the hole slightly undersize (it probably will be anyway) and use the drill bit to get it to final size. That way you're just drilling through a fraction of a perimeter. If it's to fit on a certain shaft diameter, get a spare bit of shaft and cut an edge into one side of it with a triangular file, turning it into a reamer.

You can also embed a cylinder of 100% infill into your model in some slicers, assuming a drilled hole in that method would be better positioned than if you printed it. Probably not, but it might be so on occasion.

>>2766132
probably less fill if the long section is the bit thats parallel to the bed

>>2766136
Adjust the bed like physically? I don't think mine moves. I adjusted the whole thing in the slicer like this, it does use a lot less support, thank you my brother

>>2766142
>>2766132
Have you considered printing it completely flat and heating and bending it into shape on a jig? You could even print the jig

>>2766145
That's a good idea for this piece, but this is just a base piece for a tail fender luggage rack for my motorcycle, and I won't be able to bend that and have confidence that it won't break off and dump my bag or worse, get the whole thing tangled in my rear wheel and dump me and the bike into the highway

>>2766149
I would have more faith in it being heat-bent than with layer lines going across the shaft. Also, is there room for a reinforcement vein in the angles?

>>2765866
I thought my bed was pretty fucked but yours is a nightmare, I wish you luck my brother

>>2766150
Tons of room, this is what I'm working with

>>2766154
Oh then don't skimp on the plastic at all, don't use just a skimpy thin little strip. Try and get some big anchor points for all of the bolts. You could even have a large upper surface useful both for attachment and for printing upside down!

>>2766157
Will beef up everything once I figure out what is actually going to fit into the existing hardware for sure. The skimpy strip is just for test fitting

She fits close enough! Maybe 1-2mm off of perfect, I can bend the bolted part just a tad and it'll work great. Time to make it sturdier and then design the actual rack part. Ordered some polylite PLA pro that I'll print the final product out of.

Thank you fellas for your help

>>2766161
>>2766142
This is what I've got for now, slicer says it will take just over an hour to print. Pic related is how it will install on the bike, printing it upside down. Done for the night. If this fits well, I'll make the top plate bigger and get it printed with PLA pro when I get that instead of the regular PLA I've been using

>>2766159
>just for test fitting
same
vase mode test fit is life

>>2766173
you really need to learn how to orient your prints
flip that 180 and then make sure the part thats touching the bed in the pic has support under it

>>2766030
For a while I used two 100x70x1.6mm sheets. The part pops off and the print fails/badly warps before the FR4 noticeably bends, but I only taped the FR4 to the textured PEI. Lately I use 2" wide painters tape. Soon I'll receive a 200x200x0.2mm FR4. I expect it to bend instead of detaching. The prints will still be warped but hopefully it'll be more predictable.

>>2766178
Not trying to be rude but that's what I said in the post "printing it upside down"

Anyways it finished the rectangular surface piece, crashed, and wouldn't restart so I'm going to sleep now

>>2766154
hmmm, i'm with the other anon, i really don't like the idea of your layer lines how they are, it will make it really weak. i think you would be better off actually printing this as multiple parts with some kind of joints (tongue/groove with perpendicular hardware?) instead of a single part that's got some weird layer lines that'll delaminate from the weight and road bumps at 50mph and throw your comprehensive dragon dildo collection into an oncoming minivan

>>2766173
sorry i (>>2766216) should have kept reading the thread instead of replying as i go baka i'm dumb
that looks pretty good, i think the kids in the minivan aren't gonna be killed by furry cocks anymore

>>2765982
>does drying PLA ever help?
Yes. Wet PLA isn't as dramatic as things known for needing to be dry like TPU or PETG, but it does degrade print quality and strength/toughness (the water hydrolyzes the PLA molecules). It's good practice to print everything dry, though wet PLA is generally printable.

>>2766129
>You'll find they are useful all over the place.
One example is where a through hole would disrupt bridging. A single solid layer can make those a lot more printable.

>>2766270
it's worse with pla+, compared to straight pla
apparently

>>2765775
If it has been sealed, it is fine.
If you put it in a trash bag and it wasn't in 100% humidity and hot summer temperatures it is probably still fine.
If you left it outside in the sun and rain for years it is probably fucked.

Attempt to use as is or put into a dryer/oven and bake gently for a few hours.

>>2765866
Or use a raft or elevate the object on supports and never worry about the first layer.

>>2765967
>is 3d printing profitable in any way? Is there ANY possible passive income from it?
It has the same business model as CNC. You make low volume custom parts. You either make parts on demand for the customer or you carve out an "etsy" niche.

The unique feature of FDM parts is the complex internal geometry that is not easily achievable by traditional manufacturing

>>2765982
A spool of PLA can be used over a year in an indoor environment before it absorbs too much moisture.

>>2766173
Why is the gigantic flat plate not on the print bed?

>>2766278
The + can refer to all sorts of things, and moisture tolerance can be one of the things affected by the specific blend of herbs and spices.

>>2765967
Depends a lot on what you're actually doing with it, but it can be yes. I've got a friend that runs a pretty successful etsy business selling various 3D printed trinkets that she designs herself as well as making things like custom resin dice and the like that she casts in 3D printed moulds.

You could also probably find a niche printing things that require larger print volumes than most hobbyists have at home like cosplay helmets and shit, but only if you're willing to get really autistic about dialing in your print quality and doing post-processing for them to make it worth buying.

Basically you're not gonna make money just trying to mass print shit you found on thingiverse and sell it to retards, despite all the faggots trying to do exactly that at conventions and shit.

>>2765967
>passive income
You can't have passive income with something that requires you to actively use it.

>>2765967
This >>2766357
3D printing itself is inherently not passive so you can't really make passive income from it directly. You could make passive income potentially if you're designing your own models by prototyping prints yourself to dial them in then selling the models themselves online, but you'd need to actually be good at modeling things specifically for printability and find a niche of customers willing to pay for your models.

>>2766173
Eyy that's what I'm talking about anon. Looks good, keep us posted!

I last printed about a year ago. I remember seeing something last week about cura slicer being dogshit nowadays compared to something else. What are you all now using instead of it?

>>2766386
also interested in this, I have been using Cura as I learned recently since that's what all the people I know recommended, but I hear it's shit and I should probably look at other options.

I feel like I hear people recommending Prusa as the new default these days

>>2765967
because 3d printing is not useful in any way for manufacturing in consumer facing products
The largest problem by a mile is surface finish which looks shit on all 3d prints aside from resin printing. People want nice shiny uniform plastic sheets and the only way to do that is with injection moulding OR a lengthy sanding operation on your part.
Second, 3d printed parts have to be designed a certain way to be printable. Their strength is not isotropic like with injection moulded parts so printing upwards is always worse than printing sideways. Overhangs are a problem so nearly every injection moulded part is simply unprintable without using supports. Supports are also a problem because the interface leaves a horrendous finish although multi material printing can solve this - you will need extra hardware.
You will essentially be limited to 3d printing trinkets for losers and yuppies on etsy. The only reasonable business is to make custom signage for people but that is starting to become crowded.
Either that or make the 3D printed look become 'cool' so yuppies move away from nice shiny plastic and towards ugly rough plastic.
Anyone who wants a 3d printed engineering part will likely have their own 3d printer. Maybe you could buy a very large or niche printer and carve out a space there.

>>2766387
Im seeing a lot of videos about people switching to Orca slicer on youtube. Ofcourse dont know how much of that is shill but I'm currently checking that out until someone can confirm if cura still is the go to slicer in 2024
Disregard what I said before about printing a year ago, it was more like 2 years ago since I booted it up

>>2766386
>>2766387
>>2766392
Cura is not shit, it's just one autist salty because the GUI isn't precisely the way he wants it to.
Cura has all the modern features you would want. Variable line width, adaptive layer height, tree supports, etc. All of it is there. You're not missing out on anything major.
Second thing is Cura has a ton of advanced settings, but by default they are out of sight and have sensible values. Super and Orca just dump the kitchen sink on your head day 1, no explanation, no good defaults.
Seriously, you can't go wrong with Cura.

Beware of anyone shilling Superslicer or Orcaslicer. These are the same people who tell you to install arch or gentoo when you go to /g/. They don't want to help you out, they only want to drag you down into the same pit of misery they jumped in.

>>2766396
Cura has a parallel language. Extrusion multiplier is "flow". Vase mode is "spiralize outer contour". At least they agreed on "fuzzy skin" which looks like overextrusion with the benefit of extra XY wear. There's no arc overhangs.

>>2766401
I have noticed this as I'm trying to learn about new settings, every guide I can find mentions specific settings that I can't find in Cura because come to find out they just call it something different for fucking everything, which can get a little frustrating.

How shit is this?

>>2766173
I would have printed it sideways. Part of the blue face can go below the build plate (or cut it in CAD if you care about symmetry) and you end up with a tiny support on the inside corner of the tongue if the tongue can't also be trapezoidal.
You could do no supports if you stand it up (hole axes are in the XY plane), but it might fall over in a bed slinger and layer lines are suboptimal.

>>2766406
Not great, not terrible

>>2766408
unfixable unfortunately for me

>>2766173
Why in the everloving fuck are you printing it in that direction

Hmmmmmm

I really don't like whatever the hell is going on here

>>2766416
He's not.

>>2766449
That is very fucked in an interesting way. Is it laying down the first layer lines too thick/too close together maybe, and that's forcing it to buckle and lift up like that every so often? Very curious how that could happen.

>>2766449
Original Prusa™ quality!

>>2766456
I think the bed is flat but tilted up at the bottom left corner. A smaller z gap needs less filament to fill. On the other hand it's simultaneously too little filament.

>>2766461
it's weird that the defect is so regularly spaced and in continuous lines like that. Do those raised lines seem to correlate in any way with the direction that the first layer lines are printed? I can't tell if the inflill for all of those parts was oriented in the same line direction originally or not.

>>2766449
assuming your mini is stock from here I would check
skewed X axis affecting your bed level
under extrusion due to dirty extruder/shortened hotend ptfe tube
dirty bed
and maybe z offset but skirts look fine so idk really, hope any of the above helps

>>2766456
It don't think it's buckling; the underside of the print shows that it's not lifting off the bed. It appears the printer is actually depositing more material in those bands.

>>2766462
>Do those raised lines seem to correlate in any way with the direction that the first layer lines are printed?
Yes, the bottom left part in the original image is layer 1. The others are showing layer 2.


I'm reprinting it with archimedean chords and so far it looks like it's going a bit better. pic coming soon.

>>2766464
There's the same phenomenon here, to a much lesser degree. Particularly in the corners of each part.

It looks like layer 2 is printing better, but still not great, on top of it.

>>2765730
So I have SketchUp Pro and designed picrel.
However, this is a sheet metal project and so I'd like to have an option to flatten it; I think the formal term for that is a "flatpart".

I don't believe SketchUp has an option like this. Could I just export the model as a DXF/DWF file, import to Fusion360, and set up a Sheet Metal view on there? Does Fusion support such features?

does this seem warped only to me?

>>2766479
that looks extremely warped if it's not just the camera angle fucking with me

>>2766480
Yeah then its not just me, I guess I really just need to probe 25 times to get semi accurate prints

>>2766482
jesus fucking christ, do you have a vice you can put the thing in and try to bend it back into shape a bit?

>>2766483
unfortunately no but I found this, I have never done this before. Do you think it might help?
https://www.tinymachines3d.com/pages/cr-10-max-bed-straightening-guide

>>2766389
>because 3d printing is not useful in any way for manufacturing in consumer facing products
https://outofdarts.com/
I've also seen people selling 3D printed aftermarket mods for hobby CNC equipment, e.g. better-than-stock dust collection and webcam mounts.

>>2766396
>Seriously, you can't go wrong with Cura.
There are some situations where its quirks may matter. for example, it handles spiral vase mode by continuously moving along the Z axis as it goes. This means that the first layer has inconsistent squish, and can effectively be seriously underextruded at the end of the first layer. But this does eliminate the slight irregularity from doing a shorter layer transition.

>>2766484
Maybe? I'm unfamiliar with that model but based on the guide and your picture it looks like that one corner was just torqued down to fuck, so if it's permanently deformed it might not help, but worth a try at least.

>>2766503
>There are some situations where its quirks may matter
Until these newfags print enough to hit these quirks, it will serve them well. By the time they find out that X feature is not working as they want to, they have enough technical knowledge to choose a slicer that does it for them.
>it handles spiral vase mode by continuously moving along the Z axis as it goes
That's like the whole point of vase mode.
>This means that the first layer has inconsistent squish
From my experience, this is not noticeable even at something like 0.36 layer height. Maybe it's because the vases I print have narrow bases and it would be much worse for something with a larger base, I don't know.

>>2766477
So indeed Fusion360 can import this perfectly.
However, I cannot create a flat pattern as I cannot select a stationary face ... wtf is this program

>>2766477
So indeed Fusion360 can import this perfectly.
However, I cannot create a flat pattern as I cannot select a stationary face ... wtf is this program

>>2766396
>Second thing is Cura has a ton of advanced settings, but by default they are out of sight and have sensible values
Which means if you ever actually want to use them, you hack to fuck about in submenus just to surface them, after having to google what the FUCK random term Cura decided to call them.
Slic3r derivates: the setting is where you expect it to be already, and likely named something sensible.

It's like freecad, you /can/ do the same things with it as in a proper CAD package, eventually. But it will fight you every fucking step of the way. Cure makes it a shitfight to get anything done.

>>2766515
>That's like the whole point of vase mode.
No, the point is to have one continuous extrusion. This can be accomplished in different ways. The way e.g. PrusaSlicer does it is to have mostly-parallel layers with a relatively short sloped transition between them. This eliminates uneven squish but leaves a section where the layer lines look slightly different.

>From my experience, this is not noticeable
If the vase is close-bottomed, the spiral effect doesn't kick in there. There would be a spot of underextrusion where the spiral section begins. It's most conspicuous on open-bottom complex prints like a spiral vase fractal.

>>2766526
>"dude just pull values out your ass for 100 different settings that you have no idea what the fuck they do or why you'd want them"
Ah, yes, the perfect slicer for someone just starting out.

>>2766534
>Simple mode

>>2766526
>you hack to fuck about in submenus just to surface them
It's literally one click to get to the setting visibility menu. There you have a search bar so you don't even have to look for the settings you want manually.
>after having to google what the FUCK random term Cura decided to call them
There's no googling involved, everyone making tutorials is using either prusa or cura, and most self respecting sources provide detailed info for both.
You know when there would be googling involved? When using niche slicers like the ones you shill.
But of course, elitist /g/oobers like you have no consideration for people new to the hobby and just expect everyone to know everything from the start.

>>2766534
>>2766549
Not saying I got it all figured out but I started last week, went for superslicer as it was in my distros repo and it went fine (fucked up one first layer before leveling properly, increased bed temp because it seemed like a smart thing to do after adhesion wasn't all that great on bed tests). Came in with 0 knowledge and will go back to lurking my due

>>2766534
>>2766549
Slic3r and Cura defaults are both fine. Not great, not terrible, will probably work in most cases. No practical difference.

>>2766373
Thank you sir

>>2766407
I printed one of the test fitting pieces sideways and it took 4x as long to print and didn't feel as stable, printing right now as pic related

>>2766216
>>2766218
You are good my brother, thank you for your considerations towards my bad dragons.

>>2766294
>>2766416
You two could benefit from downloading duolingo and learning to read.

Does anyone use tree supports in Cura regularly? I've used a couple with no issues, but about 50% of the time I don't save much PLA and it adds more time to the prints than it's worth in saved plastic.

Also sometimes it won't slice with tree supports, just throws an error. I managed to get it to slice with supports but then my printer crashed right as it was supposed to move to the first layer of the first tree

>>2766386
>>2766387
back in 2018 when i was last using cura it was a case of some slicers working where others didnt, and it was useful to have several installed and be familiar with their profiles.
I'm pretty sure it has always been this way, and always will be.
Right now I'm using prusaslicer because when i resurrected my long-dormant printer this year i discovered that Slic3r was essentially dead, and had been for some years. But the moment prusaslicer cant satisfy something i need done I will - as always - go and try another couple to see if they handle it better.
The real issue is setting up profiles, and figuring out the gui. The latter is usually pretty simple, but the former may be a pain in the ass unless the default profiles are good enough, and they usually are good enough that you can easily recognise and make your preferred tweaks.

TL;DR: the one that is currently under active development, and being discussed by users.
Right now thats probably prusaslicer, as well as maybe some of the more spergy ones.

>>2766392
>Orca
Never heard of it. Probably new. New ones leverage SEO to make it look like they are popular and good, but often that just means search engines are featuring something new.
Or maybe its good.
Difficult to imagine that any of them can really be significantly superior at this point in general slicer evolution though. They all have the same basic variables and standardized gui methods.

>>2766406
when the color gradient on the board is pretty much the same... its the GUIs way of saying its fine.
That said, and scale where the limits are 4mm apart is always going to look ok for any mediocre leveling job.
Those are rookie numbers, tighten them up.

>>2766449
that is an interesting one....
its almost like you got the decimal wrong bt several places on a pressure advance setting or something (thats not really a serious suggestion)

>>2766474
are you sure your hotend its wobbling around?

>>2766477
Blender has a paper folding addon, maybe that kind of thing would be useful/available in your editor of choice.
(maybe search for tools outside of 'sheet metal' terms)

>>2766484
Thats interesting that they even can do this to their beds/that machines bed.
I've never seen a bed that you can adjust like this before. It's a good idea.
What do the screws attach to on the other side?

>>2766521
You should definitely figure it out for your own use, but if you just want to have the flatfile you could always put the stl online and link it to us.
Maybe the hivemind can be of assistance.
Something we can upload to also would simplify the process...google drive i guess?

>>2766611
I also just noticed, that similar to the blender 3dprint addon: the paperfolding one will also select and highlight any zero area faces or other anomalous geometry.
Given that STL relies on an enclosed mesh both of these plugins evidently do similar sanity checking and cleanup. So (note to self) both are similar tools for finding out why my mirror/boolean is making the slicer generate retarded output.

im doing my first cad ever right now. its just a small shelf for my headphones to sit under on my desk. im trying to add hexagons to the shelf to save on filament. the only way ive figured out how to do it is copying and pasting 1x1cm hexagons and dragging them individually. how do i get them closer on tinker cad and is there an easier way for me to be doing this?

>>2766618
worst case I'll do that ... will keep fiddling around for now

>>2766611
Blender is free too, look at that. Not sure if this paper model is what we want it to be, given it creates a python file

other than a lack of money or an excess of autism, are there any good reasons to build your own printer in 2024? or are the commercial ones good enough these days to just buy one & modify it later if I really feel the need to?
I'm pretty autistic, but I also just have the cash to buy

god damnit im an idiot
the past hour i have been making something that i thought was 23cm long. turns out its 2.3cm long.
REEEEEEEEEEEE

>>2766624
>given it creates a python file
lol,
the addon IS a python file
it creates a pdf or svg

>>2766628
you pretty much NEED a 3dprinter SO you can build a 3dprinter

>>2766633
do you mean that either way I'll probably get to do autism? nice

>>2766632
so, just scale it up 10x, whats the problem.

>>2766638
i couldnt figure out how on tinkercad so i scrapped it and started over

>>2766640
Damn brother you can just ctrl+A and drag the corners or alternatively just export it and scale 1000% in the slicer. Did you find a way to do those hex hole patterns or are you manually doing them?

>>2766634
I mean if you think you can just build one by buying parts its going to hurt, quite a lot.
Buy one thats as close to an out of the box product as you can within your pricerange. Second hand may not be a bad option.
Even the cheapest one you can find on aliexpress will be an excellent learning tool and get you the basis for printing any components you need to fix/modify the shitty one you have, or the 'it's full of stars!" one you decide to make and probably never finish.

I bought an anycubic i3 mega, becasue its frame looked more rigid than all of the extrusion based types available at the time. This turned out to be true, but ALSO its not somehting I can easily modify, so this limitation is a good thing that prevents me from the temptation to design infinite modifications that never get done.
Instead I am limited to minor additions/modifications to the existing components, and aside from adding stuff like cable chains, leds, maybe curtting holes in it to make cable ports etc.... the frame, and therefore the bed size etc is not something i can modify. Again, this is a good thing. It ensures I keep this printer operational. I do have a second coreXY that was a flyingbear p902, in parts and somewhat assembled heaps, when i am satisfied that my recently resurrected i3 is operational again I'll switch to the coreXY project again.
For many of us this is the curse and the glory of 3dprinters.

TL;DR: you need a functioning printer. Any significant experimentation should be done on a second machine. Use the first one you buy to learn what you really want from the thing. Then do that to another printer.

Or be a consoomer and buy an expensive 'just hit print' printer.

>>2766634
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikjOEaPY6Rk

>>2766645
thanks for the tip man. i made a row of the hexagons and then selected the row and then copied and pasted it. way quicker than doing them 1 x 1

>Ask for recommendations on a 3D resin printer in /tg/
>Get told to go to /diy/
>Find the /diy/ 3D printer general
>It links to /tg/
?

REEEEEEEEEE
im done. idk why i thought my ender 3 was 230mm build plate.
my first cad i ever made and i cant even print it.
maybe its time to get that k1 max

>>2766657
Haven't got one yet but I have been told anycubic are fine. I suggest looking up some reviews. I came across these Russians(?) making 3d prints and they're using an anycubic in this video so presumably it would be just fine.
https://youtu.be/Q8x-mjjT8j4?si=aw3tPZ_peW9to8hD&t=640

>>2766660
lol
this is also an additional reason to use skirts: as soon as the skirt hits a print limit, even if its still physically on the bed, the print will cancle itself... BEFORE it spends an hour printing the first layer up to that very positive X or Y point

>>2766662
thanks for the tips anon. though i kinda wasted my time tonight on this thing, i got drunk and i learned something. however i dont even know how something like >>2766647 is even made in cad. i guess just hours of autism.
back to staring at the p1s and k1 max, both of which are capable of printing this fucking thing.

>>2766661
I'll check it out, thanks

>>2766666
I got a P1S last year its a pretty decent machine
Had no issues with it that weren't user error and after the firmware was hacked for the X1C all the shizobabble about them still collecting data in LAN mode was proven false

This is pretty darn close to the final design now. Printing a 20% scale model now for fun, waiting for the PLA pro to arrive next week to print the real deal

>>2766632
Why put hexagons in a square grid? A really easy to make something like that with a lattice bottom is to model it as a solid, then set the slicer to have zero top and bottom layers, hex (or whatever pattern you want) infill, and enough perimeters to make the solid parts solid.

>>2766687
idk i just wanted it to not be solid and i saw the hexagons in tinkercad. like i said this was the first time ive ever fucked with cad. thank you for the slicer info. thats a good idea. ill use that for future builds i make.

Anyone here have a K1 or Ender 3 V3? I'm constantly getting clogs and extruder motor skipping with any filament that has glitter in it. Should I use a .6 nozzle, never had this issue with the S1 line up

>>2766657
The /diy/ printing general is mostly about FDM printing (since it's much more common and suited to general utilitarian tasks). The /tg/ printing general is mostly about resin because that's more suited to printing miniatures.

As for which to get, the impression I have is that most resin printers in the range of a few hundred dollars are pretty similar. They print great quality and detail, with the main functional differences being size and print speed. You'll need a washing/curing setup (manual or another machine or two). If you want to spend thousands, there are nice printers with bells and whistles you might find nice, but those vary by printer.

>>2766688
>ill use that for future builds i make.
It's not just faster to model, it prints faster and is stronger due to having continuous extrusions.

>>2766691
neat

>>2765730
Looking for a budget or mid-range, largeish build volume printer. Any recommendations, preferably something that prints at a decent speed out of the box, although I do have spare RPI's I could run klipper in for it.

>>2766662
Professional AutoCAD user in civil/structural/traffic/geotechnical/environmental engineering office back in that era. 3DSMax tinkerer and quasi-gamedeveloper.
Yeah, lots of what passes for autism these days.

Also; blender is a multitool, it's not only for modeling. Very handy for all sorts of stuff.

>>2766661
>anycubic are fine
theyv'e been around for a while, and their lineup isnt 16 dozen versions of the same thing.
So yes, they do ok.

>>2766689
>getting clogs and extruder motor skipping with any filament that has glitter in it.
"Miscellaneous metallic polymers designed not to melt while being extruded seem to clog smaller nozzles."
Yes. Mhmm.

>>2766703
the catch with hex like this is it helps if you can define the size of the hex gap relative to its printed perimeter. You probably don't need to, but if you do you may need an autist-tier slicer to control that. Or figure out how to actually model it.
When I print fan protectors I often notice some combinations of gap/perimeter just doesnt work with hex arrays. So typically i design a small sample that does print and hold together under use, and then array it... then boolean that array into the desired shape, then boolean that into the thing you are cutting them into.

>>2766711
>could run klipper
you SHOULD.. i cant believe people still recompile marlin every time they need to change a variable. Fuck that grief, never again.

Some boards come with integrated psuedo-PIs these days. They tend to have custom jiggled OSes so they can run, which may be problematic in the future because makers like MKS dont release the source to their OS changes.. lol... but it is an excellent way to go, for now.
SKIPR is one such board. I like mine, and yes I also have half a dozen various raspberrys.
It was extremely pleasant to NOT need to tether one to the printer this time around.

>>2765730
i go the new 101 hero printer, seems alright.

>>2766716
it looks like it printed an extremely authentic and accurate pile of burned shit.
Is that what the model is?

Also: you need to figure out how to focus that camera.
ie: turn its focus thingy, or use vl42 to do it, or put a/several lenses from a pair of reading glassed in front of it

heres another print, it's a plant ladder for sapplings
>>2766717
>pile of shit
it holds the little box thing on the pillar to the right.
>Is that what the model is?
yeah, the 101 hero
>Also: you need to figure out how to focus that camera.
the camera is an old webcam

>>2766713
But I've never had any clogging issues with any other print using these filaments till now. Literally 3 prints into using my Ender 3 V3 and it's not liking the filament. Do you think a .6 nozzle is enough though?

>>2766719
>the camera is an old webcam
Assuming it cant be focused by turning the ring around the lens: If you want to put cams really close to stuff like that then go buy a pair of $3 plastic 1 or 2 diopter (+1, or +2) reading glasses off aliexpress, pop the lenses out and mount as many of them as needed in front of the camera. Yes really.

>>2766721
All nozzles eventually get a buildup of the right size/amount of shizz and clog. Eventually.
0.6 is just harder to clog, plus you need to disassemble the nozzle/hotend anyway, so if you cant see why, a nozzle change is one way to start the process of elimination.
Could just as easily be the ptfe tube inside the heatbreak, if it has one. I hate those things.

>>2766725
I bought some hardened nozzles so guess I'll see how that goes.

>>2766660
It's 235*235. It should just barely fit.

>>2766728
hardened just makes them more resistant to abrasive wear, not clogs.
Abrasive wear makes your nozzle opening bigger and wears down the bed facing surface of the tip (also causing nozzle opening enlargement)
In any case, nozzles are a consumable, if you dont have a ziplock graveyard for gross crusty nozzles that became blocked and may one day be exposed to sufficient cleansing flames to clear them... then you arent doing it right.
Or you just threw them out, like a sane person, because they are a consumable.

>>2766738
>if you dont have a ziplock graveyard for gross crusty nozzles that became blocked and may one day be exposed to sufficient cleansing flames to clear them... then you arent doing it right
Not that dude but I mainly print ABS so a 3 day trip to an acetone spa works perfectly.

>>2766740
*cries in PLA and PETG tears*
...*but still has normal lung health*

>>2766738
Well I don't have this style nozzle laying around so had to order something. I'm sure it'll still be fucked though because nothing nice

>>2766738
>In any case, nozzles are a consumable
>unless you're solid carbide master race

Anybody here ever used metal tape as a heat deflection measure in 3D printed parts? Does it help with warping?

>>2766036
Niiiice

>>2766756
It can protect against radiation but not conduction or convection. What's your application?

>>2766764
No use case yet, just wondering.

>>2766036
Pretty sick for a bedslinger

>>2766387
Nothing wrong with cura except that they threw all the settings in a single column that you can spend a liftetime to scroll through. It slices stuff fine and the markwtplace has a bunch of good plugins.

>>2766036
I like it. A simple design that's easily portable just by removing the Y axis, and the high gear reduction on the Z axis is nice to see too. I like the carbon fibre bed, is it rigid enough to not need hand-levelling to get it flat with the printer's XY plane? Because that's what I'm looking for in a new printer.

>>2766738
>>2766742
Just burn your nozzles out bro.

>>2766754
What's the thermal conductivity of those like compared to hardened steel? What are known good manufacturers? I wonder if there's a similar substance (a metal carbide or nitride probably) with higher thermal conductivity? Or maybe we could get bimaterial nozzles, with a carbide sheath embedded in copper. Not sure if they'd stay bonded with expansion though.

>>2766036
dong

also cheating a bit by moving all the electronics out of shot

>>2766759
>>2766774
it does look nice..... But thats almost entirely becasue theres a bunch of components hidden at the end of a cable that may or may not even be attached/visible in most of the 'product' photos.
Show us the same images but with the power/board brick in the shot.

Saw somebody going on about how the “paper method” was solved years ago. Not sure if this was in reference to checking Z-offset, but what is the best way to make sure it is accurate?

Same question with steppers/axis i suppose, since i hear some people use paper to make sure it’s “lined up” but that sounds kind of inaccurate since you’re eyeballing it or feeling resistance from the paper

>>2766661
>anycubic are fine
They fucked up harder the Bambu when it comes to network security: https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/security/anycubic-3d-printers-hacked-worldwide-to-expose-security-flaw/

>>2766784
>Just burn your nozzles out bro.
Yeah, probably. They are in limbo becasue I dont really care, but this way I have spares if i *really* need one. But flaming nozzles/heatblocks always damages their surface. No doubt this applies to the interior surfaces to some degree too. Maybe I'll think of a better method at some point, there seems to be several fairly obvious ones.
I recently ordered nearly 40 0.4 and 0.6mm standard cheapies, and a couple of midrange coated ones. That should prevent me from caring about them for a while longer.

>>2766784
>What's the thermal conductivity of those like compared to hardened steel?
Much better. Solid tungsten carbide is similar to brass in thermal conductivity. No need to change settings when using them.

>What are known good manufacturers?
Doesn't seem to matter much for this, so long as it's solid carbide rather than an insert (which has a risk of loosening with thermal cycling). The One Nozzle to Rule Them All is the so-called Bozzle nozzle, which is a CHT-like high-flow solid carbide nozzle, but that was only made in a small run years ago (.5mm only), and I'm not aware of other high-flow solid carbide nozzles.

>I wonder if there's a similar substance (a metal carbide or nitride probably) with higher thermal conductivity?
Cubic boron nitride is harder than tungsten carbide, conducts heat about 15x better, and is even more impervious to heat. Diamond is harder and more conductive still, but it burns in air, so torch cleaning would slowly degrade it. But unless you're printing with a carbide-filled filament, the improvement over solid tungsten carbide would be marginal. Cubic boron nitride is currently used for machine tooling, so the infrastructure to mass produce nozzles is mostly there, but it's doubtful that there's enough of a market to make the effort worthwhile.

>>2766789
Its a valid method, but it always makes me feel like the person doing it is a fucking savage. It's not like they still need to watch that first print afterwards to adjust the height on the printer as it starts.
I get my highest magnification eyewear - the 160% magnification geriatric glasses aliexpress sell are incredibly useful - and eyeball the nozzle actually touching the bed, when i can see it move off the bed 0.05mm i put it that last notch back down again and call that zero. Usually I have a light source behind the nozzle so i can see the light under it if its there.
But I do also have a borecam, that I can use to get a really good view of it too. Depends how much i feel like doing it properly.
Then I observe the first print and adjust, often by dropping my verniers onto it to see if what looks like 0.3mm high really is, and 0.2 etc will generally be fine after that. Save the tuned offset to firmware when appropriate.

>fucking savage.
And then the only image I have of me doing this is out of focus and the nozzle is jizzing all over the view. Filthy causal.

>It's not like they still need to watch
It's not like they *dont* still need to watch..

It seems the magnification glasses I have...have evolved into having lights on them. That seems really useful but I wonder if they are as good a frame as the ones I have?
Also if anyone is interested make sure you get the ones with the black crossbar across the top, because the ones where the arms just plug into the sides of the lenses are garbage, they always pop off unless you have a tiny skull.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004694561795.html

>>2766754
one day i might be able to justify $50-100 for a single nozzle.

nah, thats bullshit. These assholes are just price gouging now, it's like audiophiles all over again.

>>2766738
I've only managed to clog a single 0.2 nozzle so bad a cold pull couldn't fix it in 4 years of 3d printing.

>>2766807
Yeah, I hear you.
Theres probably 40+kg of PLA and PETG been put through those.
Sometimes their flaw was simply that their threads were gummed up and I couldnt be bothered.
Some were involved in PTFE liners softening and clusterfucking everything together.
Sometimes I'd manage to scratch a sliver of teflon off the inside of a bowden tube and it wouldnt make it past the nozzle.
Some of them clipped the edge of something hard one too many times. (bed, inserts etc)
I had some really shitty filament for a long time too, which didnt help at all.
I'm pretty sure I could get most of those working with minimal effort, but that damages the surfaces.
Plan is to set up a small board to temperature control a rig to hold and heat the breaks, blocks and nozzles, so i can easily ram the nozzle or otherwise just heat them in a controlled manner into ranges that will dislodge gummy amalgams of ptfe, petg and whatever.
But its easier to just buy new ones right now.

That said, cold pulling a direct extruder is definitely less hassle than the bowden ive used since forever, and have now removed, hopefully for good.

>>2766127
Can you print it totally flat and introduce the bend you want afterward with heat from a hair dryer or hot water?

>>2766812
Nylon cold pull my dude. Do not underestimate the power of nylon cold pulls. That is how I pulled out metal shavings out of the nozzles that I drilled out for 3mm filament.
If you don't have nylon go to the hardware store and get some trimmer wire, you only need a little bit and any diameter and shape below 1.75mm will work.

>>2766719
>plant ladder for sapplings

thank god for 3D printers.
without one you'd have to spend 2 minutes gluing dollar-store popsicle sticks together.

ive been printing for almost a decade but stopped for like years, sold all of my machines but i'm going to print again
i'm going to build a voron 2.4r2 with a formbot kit
found a friendly local to print parts put of fusrock ABS for me at a dirt cheap cost with all the recommended PIF settings (~50 usd converted)
my plan is:
btt pi+ooctopus
tap+sb+can+cw2+dragon hf
nevermore v6, titanium bimetal expansion stablising backers
but i can't decide whether i should go ebb36 or sb breakout style (2209 or 2240, from mellow cos i heard btt version's rather shite)
also is there any way tp get HGX chinkshit LGX clone to work with sb?
and what are the things i could have missed?
and how would you plan if you were me?, like wouldn't do something, would do someting.. etc
what do you think?
also sorry for retarded broken english

>>2766790
Possibly good for future customers as this means that future machines will have vulnerabilities more patched?

>>2766851
better yet create a ladder jig for dowels and square craft wood.

>>2766901
join the voron discord
it's a cesspool of half trannies and half engineers but people do know what they're doing.
The ratrig discord is more sane if you're willing to cancel your voron order

recently failed a print because the filament wasn't extruding. found the root cause to be the diameter of the filament was 2mm for a 450mm (18") section. its ABS from mg chemicals, it is older filament as well. previously had some good prints off the same spool, so i'm hesitant to throw the rest of the spool out.

does filament swell like this as it ages? or would it be a filament manufacturing problem?

>>2766938
>manufacturing problem
MG Chemicals has had a bad reputation for years, almost a decade ago people were already giving them shit for inconsistent quality, they haven't improved. Their filament catalogue is almost completely gone now.

>>2766619
Jesus Christ, that's some really fucked up geometry. Protip: select two vertices on the base of the inset cylinder (the edge of the hole), two corresponding ones on the outer rim, press F to make one face, then hooold F to skin the next ones in a loop. Or extrude the outer rim, scale to inner, extrude inward. Select all and turn normals outward. Don't boolean simple holes, you's finna end up with a shitload of null faces or some other wacky shit.

>>2766622
>to save on filament.
bruh. for each floor, ceiling and 15% infill you're creating 6 multiple-walls. in other words you can save more filament with settings than faggot design.

in f360 it's the rectangular fill tool which you can use in sketch or object mode. hexes ofc need two per fill to get a nice pattern.

Hi /3dpg/. Got a question, wonder if you could please lend a hand.
I just bought a CR10S. Printed 3DBenchy yesterday, and it smelled a bit like burnt plastic, but nothing too drastic. I was about to print some 40k today, but while heating the bed, I smelled the plastic again, so I cooled it down, and after inspection, there's some packaging-looking black plastic under the heated bed. But it's different from the rest of the black packaging. This one has a textured film stuck under. So I'm not sure if it's packaging that was burnt and got stuck under the metal plate while printing 3DBenchy, of if it's something like insulator. Looks like this (ip range banned from images, catbox link):
https://files.catbox.moe/v1tvme.jpg
What do you say? Should I remove it as it's burnt packaging, or should I leave it be because it's insulator?

>>2766960
That looks like something to help protect the bed. Does it come with instructions on how to assemble/unpackage? Or maybe a gaytube video to help you more?

>>2766961
The instructions are terrible, and say nothing about the packaging. I followed two youtube tutorials while setting it up (it would have been impossible just following the instructions - for example, the instructions mention nothing about the packaging on the Z axis, which would block the ridges), and both videos said you should remove the packaging. However, neither said you should look under the bed, nor showed this sheet of plastic being taken under it. So I'm assuming it's some sort of insulator, but as it does give out this faint burnt plastic smell, I'm not sure if it's packaging I burned down yesterday.
Does yours have an insulator under the metal plate?

seems impossible to get it any better than this

>>2766955
>bruh. for each floor, ceiling and 15% infill you're creating 6 multiple-walls

Only true if the walls of the honeycomb are significantly thicker than your extrusion width.

My suggestion for very simple shapes? Model them as a solid, then use modifiers in the slicer to remove the top/bottom layers in those areas. It doesn't really work with complex shapes, but it's the best way I've found to turn basic rectangular/circular areas into some sort of mesh or other.

>>2766966
>https://files.catbox.moe/v1tvme.jpg
I'd fall on the side of the fence on how easy it is to remove. in other words if it just slid in and was crushed because the bed was packed down I'd remove. otoh if it's glued in or something I'd leave it. if it was insulation I'd also think it should be foil finished, like reflectix. oh and when you put the bed on to pull on it to see if it's attached look underneath, is there anything to protect from the bed heat?

>>2766983
>Only true if
yeah the real answer is of course IT DEPENDS on a lot of shit, my point was you can't just add holes and assume it's less.

>>2766998
The base came pre-assembled. It basically came in two parts: bed and gantry. Like this:
https://files.catbox.moe/zg7fre.jpg
That said, the foam under the metal plate is definitely not easy to remove. It's pasted quite tightly, but it might just be the burnt surface at the bottom of the bed, I don't know.
There's nothing else that would protect the bottom from the metal base's heat though, no. There's a couple pieces of strange paper between the metal base and the pyrex bed though, but according to one of the youtube videos I saw, it's to level it.
https://youtu.be/M8zxolmd9AM?si=1c3g288z6B6qs5-3&t=252

>>2766942
I shift-n and alt-j so often it would have become something i do while I sleep except for the fact that all the finger reaching requires consciousness.
>Don't boolean
HERESY!

Most of the time those little junk faces are due to me forgetting to turn a mirrors clipping/merge checkbox off, or adding hole tolerant/self intersection to a boolean.
Also that stl was ~2018 blender/Slic3r... or maybe even Cura

>>2766960
Its an insulator.
I have identical one, and it didnt smell more than a little whiff for a moment.
Chances are something else smells. That may be a normal or a bad thing. But on a new printer it's likely to do some offgassing the first time you crank it up.

>>2766970
seems impossible anyone would start using html v0.1 clashing flourescent color schemes for text again too... but there it is.

>>2766851

>been going to dolalr tree alot more lately wanting to buy bingo markers to make cheap graffiti mops to try out
>go on website shows only one store in 30 mile radius that has them, a few minutes from me
>go there, and cant find them. Ask an employee and they mention they do get them once in a while
>go home start doin http scrape
>find url that responds back a json of itme and stores nearby with quantity if they have them
>shows 38 at the store I was at
>check http url daily and go to store once a week
>After a few trips I start looking at boxes
>at this point I have the sku memorized, and found box of bingo markers on a random shelf
>grab one of each color
>check url and see quantity went down to 32
>somewhat accurate
>finally have bingo markers to make graffiti mops.

im a fag theres no point to this story other than it being dollar tree.

>>2766983
>if the walls of the honeycomb are significantly thicker than your extrusion width
If they aren't at least a consistent 2 perimeters, they might outright fall apart due to a lack of tie-in with open extrusion ends.

>>2766942
>>2766619

here's an even better tip - use booleans
don't have to fuck around with the mesh that way - the bool tool addon is preinstalled with blender and allows you to select multiple objects and hold ctrl & numpad + or numpad - to union or difference.
It makes rectifications easier and as long as you don't have 2 vertices in the exact same coordinates and don't apply the same boolean to a child then parent object you will have zero issues.
It does tend to lag when you get into the 15+ region.
You should also be subdividing cylinders and using the crease slider to make the edges hard.

>>2767034
Phew.
Thanks anon. Time to preheat for my space communist females then.

>>2767050
>ctrl & numpad + or numpad - to union or difference.
What keymap are you using? What blender version?
None of the keymaps i see include any bool binds whatsoever.
Also I assume this is no a keybind to adding the usual boolean modifier, but more like a subobject knife type boolean operation that is essentially a permanent change?
Why crease? To make lateral lines hard and create holes that are less curve and more angles? Whats the use-case you assume here?

oh, its an addon

looks to be just a keybind to the standard boolean modifier.... which is exactly what im using above... where you say i should be using it :}

But why hard-crease cylinders?

>>2766640
You can scale it in your slicer.

I got the first real prototype on the bike and bolted down. It seems pretty secure (besides the fact that it's 3 walls of pla and 10% infill). Took 7 hours to print. My build plate is 235x235 and this is 150mm wide in pic rel so I'll make the final product about that big

>>2767120
How thick are the walls? If you have a 0.4 nozzle try and do 0.6 walls it should make it stronger

>>2767133
No point in fine tuning with the filament I have right now, too brittle to trust. Waiting for the PLA pro to arrive and then printing it mostly solid

>>2767140
Wider extrusions still improve strength when printing solid. Theoretically, it's based on the width to thickness ratio, but real-world factors can interfere with that. Going slow and hot helps with layer fusion and bulk strength/toughness.

>>2767142
Ah, I haven't played around with wall thickness before. I'll try that on some test pieces and if it works well with my printer I'll do that when I print the real deal. Thanks

>>2767120
Eyy congrats! Looking damn fine
>>2767133
>0.6 lines in 0.4 nozzle
Was going to suggest the same. I tried it and it shaved around half of the print time for a project. It also enables you to do taller lines more easily, as a rule of thumb half the line width, so 0.3mm tall layers in this case.

>>2767159
You can generally use a smaller nozzle to simulate a larger nozzle up the flow limits of the smaller nozzle.

tube

>>2767222
3d printer tech has come so far!!!

Is FauxHammer a reliable reviewer?

>>2767035
its the default colors of the plugin, and the plugin doesnt change colors depending on dark/light mode. nothing more to explain, fuck you

Is my chinkshit filament dryer going to burn my house down? The package was marked "flammable".

>>2767246
its marked flammable because of the heating element you tard, just like your printer is flammable

>>2767246
cardboard is flammable

>>2766960
its insulation
theres nothing written about it because it doesnt concern you. isnt that obvious? DONT remove it

>>2767277
I didn't remove it. Thanks anon.

Can I get some advice on my first project as a beginner?

I'm designing a shell for a complex electronic device that must hold various switches and probes with a grip and battery pack and various internals. I'm constantly tweaking the bracket sizes and such to ensure everything fits together. Using OpenSCAD

I love that the position and size of any component is a function of the size of all the others like pic related. If two switches intersect, moving them apart moves all the others to compensate, moves the grip lower, lengthens the case, etc. Rebuilding with a minor variation takes seconds.

I also hate the above. I want to relocate or delete one bracket I realise was a bad design, but its position is used to calculate the position of too many other components to do so without heavy rewrites. Splitting one face into four to accommodate a new join is so tedious. I also struggle to tell if two objects are identical when translated and rotated. I can't drag them into eachother to see if they'll fit and have to visualize it in my head.

Should I not use variables for absolutely everything? Switch to something with a visual editor like TinkerCAD so I can redraw everything MS PowerPoint style? Would having to move every component individually with a mouse for a minor change manually not be even worse? Is my programming just shit?

Been working all weekend on this design and getting burnt out on roadblocks.

>>2766960
>just bought a CR10S. Printed 3DBenchy yesterday, and it smelled a bit like burnt plastic, but nothing too drastic
Anon, if you printed PLA then the bed was at 60C tops. No plastic in existence smells burnt at that temp.
I highly recommend you open the control box and look at all the connections there. If a screw terminal is loose then it will heat up a shit ton and might even catch fire.

>>2767301
>obviously making a gun with a million parts
>asks the anons working on plastic spacers and artistic hexagons for workflow advice

>>2767305
It was PLA. The nozzle prints at 200C though, but yeah, it feels like the smell, which is faint, doesn't come from the filament, but from the insulation.

>>2767301
Take the programming socks off, get solidworks, do CAD like an actual engineer.
You can even do motion studies so you know if your fucking machine works properly or not.

>>2767309
Would the issue not still be present with big corporate CAD?
If designing an engine and ordered to make the pistons larger, would you not need to tweak the design of thousands of components individually to accommodate them, delving into menus for each of them individually, etc.
My solution was essentially a custom build your own engine program that locks you out of moving anything manually.
I only know specialised architect CAD from work and it can't do shit.

>>2767312
Proper CAD packages also allow the use of variables for dimensioning and formulaic driving of dimensions from variables. That's just a basic CAD feature, not some special SCAD thing: it's called Parametric Design.

>>2767312
>would you not need to tweak the design of thousands of components individually to accommodate them, delving into menus for each of them individually, etc.
Well, yes, you would need to do that. This is one part of why people doing CAD get paid. It's a job.
You can reference these things to one another and/or calculate from just like you did before but in a real CAD it's easier to remove these references if needed, because you don't have to shuffle around a bunch of code.

>>2767313
>>2767314
Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.

anyone here using this?
https://github.com/mikulash/Octoprint-detector2
i used to have this and it worked perfectly. now it just doesnt work. wanted to ask if anyone can confirm if they also get an error with this?

its the only non shill shekel free detector that i know of. but if theres anything else i could check out that is also free im one big ear

Does anyone have an ender 3 v3 ke?
Or how do you print petg in general? I have a lot of strings and fiddling with retraction/temperatures/speeds/fans/z hops/wiping etc, doesn't help really much. There's dry here at my place, so humidity is not a core of an issue as well. I did try different color spool - the same thing.

how is this even possible
and no, this isnt a fluke. i have ran the bed levelling 3 times now

>>2767408
PETG is naturally stringy unless super dry
Also jack the retract speed up, I found that helps a bunch.

>>2767432
Fucked X gantry?

>>2767432
looks like a ~0.1mm wire under the bed would fix that
but yeah, either your bed is bent or your gantry is in a funky position

>>2767451
>>2767461
at this point i dont even know whats wrong with it.
im taking the entire thing apart tomorrow to see what i can see that i cant atm while it's assembled, because just looking at it i cant tell that anything's wrong with it

>>2767432
I don't understand the problem

>>2767301
your design is bad, your design process is bad, your design tool is bad. I can't comment on your programming. you are however autistic.

>>2767490
>i dont even know whats wrong with it.
is there something wrong with it?

>>2766461
your z gap is too small and the nozzle is pushing the plastic
try raising it a bit and see if there's a difference
I keep a single layer 2inx10in rectangle stl on my drive just for testing this every time i boot up or change filament
the one on the right was when I booted up
raised z axis by .03
got the one on the left
proceeded to print
if the axis is too far the lines won't adhere and it'll pull apart like an accordian

>>2767517
>I keep a single layer 2inx10in rectangle stl on my drive just for testing this
Seconding the utility of this. I use a small cube which I stop when I've seen enough. Usually 1.5 layers for checking Z offset, but I also let it build up more if I want to dial in the flow multiplier.

>>2767433
It starts getting underextruded.
The major improvement was switching to "inside then outside walls" ordering, maybe I'm missing something else.

>>2767508
>>2767512
the bed looks like a vert
im not building a skatepark

>>2765053
>Has anyone found that the adhesive on a magnetic hotbed base isnt sticking to the aluminium bed?
I'm assuming you bought a cast aluminium bed. If that's the case then it's likely still covered with lubricant/coolant and dust from the milling process. I spent a good 10 minutes wiping mine down with acetone and the kitchen towels were still coming back dirty. You gotta clean it anon.

>>2766784
>Just burn your nozzles out bro.
Not him, but when I bought my CR-10S years ago and before I put a filament cleaning sponge before my extruder, I used to get blocked nozzles on occasion. The thing is mk8 replacement nozzles were so cheap that it was often easier to just throw away the blocked nozzle and just put a new one on.

This is a power adapter for my RV. The depth of the plug d is greater than the socket, such that the threaded collar just barely doesn't reach, leaving the plug floppy and easily knocked loose.

The first idea is to make an adapter collar and use the threaded black piece with the profile in red/cyan (lower) in a circular sweep. The concern is the layer lines don't provide much strength in this direction and some difficulty getting it to both slide over the existing geometry but still provide support. The yellow is ever so slightly flexible s.t. you can barely remove the black.

The second option would be reprinting the entire black collar, but extending it. The force/layer problem is the same however thicker profile is possible as it only needs to interference clear the one yellow piece. The concern is both layer strength and more being able to reproduce the fine threads. Most of the 3d printed screw threads I've had success with are oversized.

Thoughts? I'm not sure which to pursue or if there are some alternatives I haven't considered (e.g. chopping the yellow end off)

>>2767545
Option one and print it out of TPU. No other directly printed material gets even close to the layer adhesion TPU has.

>>2767535
Oh it was cleaned. I'm not that naive.

>>2767542
In my experience the clip-on dust catchers shed bits of foam, and that foam gums everything up.

>>2767545
Theres a bunch of considerations for printing threads, but probably the most obvious is
1) thin layers ie: 0.1mm, 0.04mm
2) space between the male and the female threads. 0.4mm is usually good (0.2 on both sides), if you specify 0.4mm line widths in your slicer rather than allowing the defaults which in some cases are 0.45 or similar

Adding just this one 24V 5015 blower fan under the bed set to 100°C and running it on 12V took my chamber temps from 37-40°C to +50°C.

>>2767560
and for 3dprinting i probably should also be doing this:

>>2767617
Why?

>>2767629
one less surface to apply friction to the bolt, one less angular wall change for the printer to potentially make imperfect
Plus its a strip of empty space running the full length of the thread that can accommodate any bits of filament abraded by the bolt being threaded into it, or hold lubricant if thats used.

>>2767631
y'know.... the same as the little curved void in the ISO thread specification

>>2767617
whoops

>>2767634
or, more difficult to misread

has anyone ever seen an aliexpress kit for the Enraged Rabbit...
but only 2 channel, not 6 or whatever.
Yes yes, I know i can just make one smaller, but I want the rods etc to be sized for 2 channel without trying to find sources for everything myself.

I don't get it. What are you supposed to connect to this interface? How common can this be if I have never seen one before? I have seen plenty of extruders that seem to have similar 2bolt/1filament hole arrangements, but wtf connects to it?
Link me an example please.

FYI: the source of the image https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006292941436.html

>>2767560
Use fibreglass cloth or fibreglass wool instead

Hey I've just bought 2 filament 3d printers and 1 resin 3d printer

how do I get into 3D printing?

I want to print hot goblin bitches

Why did they make that joke of an extruder for the k1. It's like they do it on purpose

>>2767673
>fibreglass
Is this something you know works because you do it? Because I can imagine a number of reasons this would be worse than shit foam.

Is this over or under extrusion? Only with 90 degree corners on the pressure advance calibration test with Overture easy nylon. Tried 250c-290c with no difference. I've dialed in flow already before this.

Every apartment I lived in had a sizable balcony and at the very least easy access to outside ventilation.

Why dont people just set up their 3D printers outside when printing? Am I missing something, it seems to be the safest and most logical setup.
Hell, why do people living in houses set aside a room to print? Print it in your back yard.

Or is it because I'm Australian blessed by eternal sunshine and warm weathers?

>>2767684
Never done it. But those long strands are gonna be a lot easier to keep in a little enclosure, pieces won't just break off. Assuming you get the stuff with long strands in the first place, nothing shorter than 2cm. The finer they are, the better they'll scrub the filament.

Any other reasons it might go bad?

>>2767705
it's bad pressure advance or retraction

>>2767746
That's from the pressure advance calibration test so it can't be PA. Retraction then?

>>2767746
The stuff I have is fibreglass cotton sheet, ~5mm thick. The fibres are extremely fine and not particularly long as they are so fine they break. Its really nice to cut with a blade, feels sexy.
Anything crystalline and as fine as that would be evil inside a nozzle; like most blockages it'd probably be a progressive loss of output till it choked. And it couldn't be melted out.
I have doubts that any form of fiberglass would be a good idea. Kinda like sand.

That said, I'm tempted to try the stuff i have in a clip-on ferroid case anyway. But I'm also not really concerned with blockages, especially not with the new petg I have now - the 2018 pla that blocked most of the nozzles in the image most likely had sand, carbon soot, metallic fragments or similar industrial area debris in it. Or maybe just a few pellets per thousand of a type of filament i wasnt equipped to melt, but the manufacturer also produced.
The supplier was obviously new at the filament spooling game, so that is likely what made me kill nozzles a lot. Also the lack of double z-axis leveling, which i have now added.
Now I think I'll just go with keeping my filament clean. I have no brass deficiency any more either.

>>2767705
Well it seems like it's printing better in the first ten or so layers.

>>2767737
I urge you to set yours up on the balcony. The magpies and cockatoos will likley enjoy your printer very much. Post the webm of the cockatoo tearing it apart for it's own amusement here later please. For me and the rest of the world some of the issues would be rain, snow, drafts of wind, bird poop, humidity, dirt in general and immigrants trying to steal it. Dumbass.

>>2767746
>>2767761
Also the thing is the 45 degree angles on the test are as expected. I can clearly see where the points with ideal PA, which is 0.025 for those corners.

>>2767761
Magpies and cockatoos are cool, I feed them stale bread and if they want my attention they know to bang the rail

>immigrants
You have shitskins climbing up and/or climbing fences to steal 3D printers? Where the fuck do you live?

>>2767762
Slightly too fast and uneven cooling further away from the bed is my guess.

>>2767763
Sweden. I wouldn't want to put my €1000 printer out and risk it on the first floor, possibly second in this wonderful suburbsn stockholm ghetto. And then there's the other issues I mentioned, like snow. I just hang a fat hose out the window for now that sucks air out of my room. And it seems to work well.

>>2767770
I thought SWEDEN YES was a joke ;-;

>>2767652
annex sherpa style mount

Is it too much to ask for a 3d printer that doesn't break? I paid off over $400 for this pos

>>2767777
this is definitely user error. maybe you are just too low IQ to do stuff yourself? maybe you should just work at mcdonalds and after your shift ends you send the models you would want to print yourself to a company or individual who has some brain activity unlike yourself? i havent seen one printer that "just breaks" in current year

>>2767778
No fuck that I would have gotten a shitty ender ender 3 v3 if I knew it was going to break

>>2767777
give us the gory details you big girlyman
SHOW US THE WRECKAGE THAT IS YOUR LIFE

>>2767777
Dont name it so people can learn to avoid or anything

>>2767795
The ender k1 although the extruder doesn't look like the one on the YouTube videos. Maybe it's a clone.

>>2767777
>$400
>want it to not break

even chinkshit bambu breaks idiot

>>2767031
why dont just parametric cad like a sane man
i can never understand people using blender to "design" mechanical parts in blender

i just can't guess the thought process of choosing the tool for it

>>2767796
anon, that's a filament sensor, not an extruder.
if it was an extruder it would have a stepper motor to, you know, extrude the filament.

Lol my dual linear rail bedslinger works great.

>>2767800
Not him, but I've been using blender for over a decade at this point, it's what I'm used to, and I just like it.

>>2767776
>annex sherpa style mount
lol at the SEO on that keyword combo

also thanks

>>2767800
>blender
I had already spent years using blender, and I'm not a windows user; so either i find the 'other' software too sluggish and snoopy, the EULAs too rapey, or the repeat payment pricing plans too costly.
Blender can be a little painful; but even complex designs aren't too hard to deal with.
Having never used a real parametric modeller in the 21st century, and that wasnt even really a thing back when i was a pro CAD guy in the 20th century, so I just have no frame of memory-reference for parametric; and I am spared the curse of constantly longing for more.

It does bother me that doing sweet looking bevels on every serpentine edge, without collapsing the modifiers, isn't as trivial as it is in parametric-land.

>>2767805
yup, liek dat

>>2767805
But it's objectivley shit for (parametric) design of parts. Great for sculptures and such tho. Why not sink 20 hours into learning the basics of a CAD program?

>>2767824
because you dont always need a parametric cad program

>been waiting for the p1p enclosure kit to stock up for months
>of course get notification email that's in stock right after I go to bed
>6-7 hours later it's fully sold out

But of course. Fuck off.

>>2767830
CEO of p1p enclosure kits here! Please do tell me what time you go to sleep so that I can in future time these announcements so you'd miss every one of them

- CEO,
P1P enclosure kit

>>2767801
Where is the extruder then?

what temps do you all print pla+ at? i used to do it at 210-220 for years but now bumped it up to 260 first layer, 250 everything else. i have to say, the prints are much more stronger now while still looking just as nice.

>>2767833
I went to sleep at like 5:30 AM and I got the email half an hour later. That's so gay man.

>>2767830
You can glue some acrylic together and DIY one.

>>2767837
Never mount found it next to the hot end. Man that piece of filament got stuck in there good I had to drill it out.

>>2767897
>drill it
i dont't really recommend that.
i would rather disassemble the extruder then clean the bits off and then do some cold pulls

>>2767811
>wasnt even really a thing back when i was a pro CAD guy in the 20th century
So you were a CAD guy prior to Procedural/Parametric modeling becoming the norm? Seems unlikely. I've exclusively used parametric modeling since 1988, and the software then was almost a decade old already.

>>2767840
Well, what filament are you using? PLA+ is just marketing wank. I find 3D850 and 3D870 PLA both print nicely at higher temperatures and in an enclosure, which makes for much stronger and more heat-resistant prints. 4043D on the other hand does not like it, temps over 240 start to degrade it.

>>2766711
I'm thinking I'll snag a Tronxy x5sa + linear rails for the gantry, and 3d print an EVA hotend mount for it. On one hand, I really just want a printer that works, on the other hand, I also want at least 1 larger format 3d printer.
Would linear rails + klipper (+ potential hotend upgrade later) be of a respectable quality?
Or should I say fuck it and get a tiny enclosed printer(klp, the $300 qidi, flashforge 5m, or a k1)

>>2767958
esun pla+. dont know what else to say about it

>>2767968
>I'll snag a Tronxy x5sa + linear rails for the gantry
Not worth the money or the effort. The TronXY's are perfectly examples of the cheapest possible printer for a given price. Every single component is sub-par, including the entire frame. Don't waste your money. By the time you've made it rigid and usable and replaced everything that needs it AND added linear rails you'll have spent way too much time and money on it. You can pick up a RatRig starter kit, which is just aluminum extrusions, corner cubes, brackets, and hardware, for <$100USD. There's your frame. Everything else you need, you'll have needed anyway with the TronXY, because there's not much salvageable there.

>>2767895
I could but I want a proper solution and not some hanky janky shit I'll be printing for 3 weeks.

>>2767956
>assuming everybody lies
So what was 'parametric' in 88?
AutoCAD presumably, Thats what I was using, but not to design. I guess I just didn't notice because of the nature of the work.

>>2767824
Works good enough for me.

>>2768000
>Printing for 3 weeks
??? You would buy the acrylic panels.

>>2767986
The issue is I purchased project printers, and my old ender is so fucked its scrap metal currently. So I have no running 3d printers to print parts to build one with.
But it sounds like the Tronxy is enough of a rotten egg that it wouldn't be worth it.
Fuck it, plug and play corexy it is.

>>2768023
CATIA, AutoCAD 3D, BRL-CAD (never touched it), MiniCAD. CATIA was probably the most prevalent. MiniCAD was fun; everything was more fun on a 9" B&W screen. I really miss using a Mac Plus every day.

>>2768023
>>2768023
AutoCAD is not parametric, the other anon mentioned some of them.
CATIA is probably one of the most known ones. Also god have mercy on your soul if you do decide to pick that one up.

I upgraded my 100$ 3018 cnc to make it less noisy and get better results when engraving circuits onto blank copper clads.

>>2768053
Well at least you werent a microstation snob. :)
>>2768056
>not parametric
Noted. It's been several lifetimes since then.
>>2768081
I kinda want to make a very small cnc for this same purpose. Trying to set up projects on breadboards or perfboard as a final product is slow and annoying. Seen any supertiny cnc designs?

>>2768092
>Seen any supertiny cnc designs?
the 3018 is probably the smalles out there but definetly not the best option as it has some serious problems with accuracy. All I kept was the bed, the controller and some basic hardware like the leadscrews. I would suggest you start from scratch. My tip, do not cheap out on linear bearings and the spindle.

>>2768117
I'm tilting toward the more expensive of the two, but I seriously doubt I need the size, considering the price diff.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006611567981.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002869869526.html

>>2767830
>just saw I got another email from an hour ago
>it's in stock but like 30 bucks more expensive

What the fuck? Used to be 160 something, now it's 200???

>>2768128
All junk. Only has value for machining wood, foam, plastics. I purchased the all aluminum frame version w/ 6mm thick gantry plates, and tossed linear rails on it, swapped to beefier Nema 17's, and its still dogshit.
After the nightmare that was setting it all up, and trying to figure out why my system didn't home properly for 2 days, I managed to get it to work, just for the backlash to be so great that the thing drifts ~.3mm to the right every step down it makes, in aluminum. I gave up after that, already too much money and time invested into a turd.

>>2768149
The more expensive one is almost entirely aluminium (i linked 2), and I have enough parts/experience with extrusion based printer builds to be able to adapt. I'ts a pretty simple system compared to a 3d printer, and all i want it for is circuit boards.... but I bet i find something else i simply MUST cnc about 10 seconds after I set it up, and it will be too big/hard.

>>2768092
>I kinda want to make a very small cnc for this same purpose
The cheap and space efficient method is to bolt a 1W engraving laser diode on your 3d printer. The software isn't really there yet though, I'm writing it myself at this moment. You can also use UVtools to expose PCBs with a resin printer. I had contrast issues though.

A router is also great as a PCB drilling machine, but a 3D printer like an ender 3 is not rigid enough to drill PCBs. Ask me how I know.

>>2767897
my dude, slow down a bit, until you actually know what part of your machine you're messing with maybe don't take power tools to it.
the filament will be stuck because it went in molten, and has since solidified, if you just heated it up to like, 80-100c it would have come out with a little pulling without you needing to drill out your soft brass nozzle.
google some of these issues, i promise you any issue you've had with an ender printer, at least 200 other people have had that issue and written it up on the internet.

>>2768226
I dont want to mess with lasers unless theres a really good reason. Prefer not being accidentally blind.
In any case - too late - I had a case of 'fuck it, thats not a bad price' and bought one. And so the journey begins.

>>2767830
Just DIY an enclosure. You can literally just use cardboard and it really isn't a fire hazard.

why don't we see guy wires on printers to stiffen the construction? especially on arch-like ones like ender, it feels like it just makes sense to preload the superstructure.

>>2768278
>I dont want to mess with lasers
take the laserpill anon. It can be really fun, especially when you are accustomed to the relative slowness of 3d printers. Don't cheap out on laser goggles and you will be fine.

>picrel is my 1:144 model of the Admiral Hipper class heavy german cruiser

>>2768278
Fumes are also a concern with lasers too, and a greater fire risk. I find it mad how little safety info is given by companies selling those open framed laser cutters

>>2768284
No I don't want trash. I took an L and bought it at 200. It went out of stock like 20 minutes later. Fucking farm autists probably desperate to upgrade.

Why don't (you) electroplate your prints

>>2768317
>electroplating plastic
Anon, I...

>>2768298
Why not just enclose the machine and wire the lasers power via a switch operated by the enclosure door? Or have the door trigger an endstop that is required to be closed in firmware before allowing the laser to turn on?

>time to flash the control board for my ercf
>manual doesn't contain instructions for my board
>find github for the board with instructions, says to flash for rp2040
>there's no option for rp2040
>need to figure out how to add that option myself
Another day of messing with klipper, another day of diving into pointless rabbit holes.

>>2768348
Imagine if Klipper devs could just add proper g-code support too. It's been how many years now? And my printer still can't play doom from a g-code file on the beeper.

>>2768320
What, do you not?

>>2768381
Honestly, at this point, real g-code support would be a piss in the ocean.
>documentation is organized by chimps
>on that topic, lots of information is completely missing or outright wrong
>some files are outright missing from the installation despite following official guides
#3 is what bit my ass today. Also what initially bit my ass in the past when I tried to set up the RPi as MCU but it turned out the documentation was wrong.

I feel like I'm back to 2016 when /g/ memed me into using Debian. Half the shit outright didn't work if I didn't fuck around on the command line.
>boot
>open console
>type pulseaudio
>you can now play sounds
Fuck that shit, I don't know how I put up with that for 2 entire years.
Klipper doesn't annoy me daily and that pressure advance is sweet, but holy fuck whenever I want to do something smart with it then it will fight me tooth and nail. It feels like I'm roleplaying Sisyphus.

>>2768401
Wonder how much the equipment to do this would set me back

>>2768414
Pennies. Look into it, it's not hard, but getting beautiful results like that picture takes more work than most people are willing to put in. If you already have the printer, you can try this for <$20.

>>2768401
Plastic is not conductive.

>>2768401
>boring benchy
metal swatistika hermit crab shells kek
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zti0yk0DCBY

>>2768432
Oh no, I guess there's no solution. Except, obviously, the conductive coatings that are usually used when people do this, or the conductive filaments that are sometimes used.

>>2768341
People bolting a laser onto their ender 3 don't usually have enclosures for them. Also not only do you need an enclosure, but a method of clean air ventilation to prevent smoke or dust getting up on the lens. Or just put it in your garage like I did.

>>2768436
or the silver mirror spray solutions

>>2768435
>no crabs were harmed in the making of this video
lmao

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcKTfaWmDh8

>>2766048
>P1S is $50 more expensive than A1
Why bother with A1 at all at this point?

>>2768505
You're comparing the A1-with-AMS price to the bare P1P.

>>2766030
>>2766188
>but I only taped the FR4 to the textured PEI
2mm directly bolted on my PCB heater. Very happy with PETG ever since, no warping or bending issues. I'd probably go down to 1.5mm with an aluminium heat bed, but nothing more.

>>2768507
Even better. The P1P is just on sale.

Anyone else going or went back from CHT nozzles?
To me it feels typically nice, until it doesn't. I had three clogs in the last half year with my CHT and every time it turned into a multi hour cleaning adventure where previously one cold pull was enough. Nevermind me only getting one clog in the first half of 2023 at all.

>>2768040
Fuck it, I pulled the trigger. Supposedly its loud enough to be annoying without the enclosure.

>>2768513
Yeah, i got 0.5, 1 and 3 mm FR4, and the 3mm is the one That doesnt immediately warp like crazy.
I have no decent means to hold it on right now, so I'm not using it yet. Probably an adhesive magnetic sheet would do, but those things seem to use Halbach arrays to make the sheet stronger/one directional, so finding one with the adhesive on the right side, AND attracted to my existing magnetic sheet would probably prove difficult.
So I guess a sheet of 3m adhesive would be the first thing to try.
..or as you say: mount it directly by cutting 4 M3 tapered holes into it somehow.

>>2766036
Aesthetic as fuck

>finally decide to buy linear rails upgrade for my elegoo printer
>x and y kits are out of stock
Who the fuck buys those thing? At least there is notice it will be back on the 10th.

I was retarded and shorted out the board on my a8, now it throws a max bed temp error even with a new thermistor. Anyone have an idea for a new board, or is the stock one still the way to go?

>>2768593
>mount it directly by cutting 4 M3 tapered holes into it somehow
Not at home, but pic rel is all i did. Took the ever so slightly bending side upwards and called it a day.

>>2768666
>a8
Pics or didn't happen.

>>2768666
Buy something capable like a BTT Octopus. Don't short it out and you will have a good mainboard ready to go once you get tired of your current chinkshit.

>>2768664
(You)

How would you add a filament sensor to this? It has to be after the extruder gear.

>>2768741
>It has to be after the extruder gear.
Why?

>>2768789
I'm trying to get this to work with an ERCF MMU and they recommend a sensor after the extruder to ensure proper loading.
It can also work with the sensor before it, which is the low hanging fruit and I'll just go for that if I can't find any other solution.
I for one couldn't come up with anything solid just yet. The best idea so far would be to have a hole in the guide tube going left to right and a laser going through that. Problem is, the tension arm is right in front of the guide tube, so I'd have to remove that and design something else to press down on the filament.

>>2768796
Just asking to make sure, you are making v2 of the ERCF right?

>>2768800
No, it's the v1.

>>2768741
Some stepper drivers measure torque. It's good enough for end stops. Maybe it's possible to retract the filament and notice that there's a big change in torque when the filament is about to lose contact with the gear, without actually losing contact.

>>2765730
My grandmother's recliner broke. The plastic actuator slide snapped in half. I found a 3d model of the same part online. I know jack shit about 3d printing. What kind of instructions should I give a company I ask to print this for me?

Here's the part:
https://www.printables.com/model/483476-schlitten-fur-den-antrieb-dl-dt1005-fur-den-jysk-f
He says "Printed with PLA+ 4 outer lines and 60% filling".
It's a pretty beefy part and definitely needs to be quite strong. The chair is rated for 110kg, but dunno if this part actually needs to resist such forces. The part threads onto the threaded rod connected to the actuator motor.

>>2768809
Tell them to print it with PETG at high infill. Ask the company to make it strong they should take care of the rest of print settings.
If you want it really strong say you want it done in something like ASA.
It still wont be as strong as the inject molded part though.
Don't print it in PLA.