/diy/ - Do It Yourself

I am tiring to cut through a truck tire with a band saw. What if any blade can i use that will actually be able to do this with the lowest chance to catch on the steel threading and/ or catch fire with the rubber particulate?

Does any europoor know where I can get a pvc waste pipe cross connectors for reasonable money? These things seem to be rarer than hens teeth this side of the pond and any place that has them are asking crazy prices. I can get them on aliexpress cheap but shipping is again ridiculously expensive and are of dubious quality

>>2756566
I would run the blade in reverse or something
Those wires don't break
Or if you can get a legit steel blade

An anon offered a suggestion for the bracket last thread, thank you. It was close but the slots have to be lifted. pic rel is what I'm looking for. The brown is a hypothetical leather strap.

>>2756566
What kind of truck tire are you talking about.
A bandsaw with a high TPI bimetal blade is already the best tool for the job.

>>2756591
are you the same anon who was trying to make a medieval shield a while back?
is this for that shield?

>>2756591
If it were me, I would just make the bracket myself.
Its not hard to make the loops and weld them to a plate

Any gas valves for furnaces that can be controlled remotely? Like the fucking thing is under the house. In order to light It, I drilled a hole in the furnace and used a piece of rod that is connected to the valve control knob but I kinda want a more elegant solution than that because I have no. Idea what it's doing down there and I think either it broke or the thermocouple broke

>>2756593
I took it off the side of the road I don’t know what kind of truck it came off but it was about 3 foot diameter

>>2756567
T+Ʇ

>>2756610
yes. but why would you want to have it controlled by a computer. they made a video game about remote controlled gas furnaces and it almost burned the house down.

>>2756591
you know if you just explain what you're trying to do instead of being cryptic you might find better help

>>2756610
don't fuck with gas, it's one of the few things that can kill you in several ways if you don't get shit fixed and fixed right.

>>2756567
Any irrigation web shop. The ones in my country called pvc4u and irriTech have them for around €3

i got this old clock after my grandfather died and i thought i might restore it and get it working. i think this is late 40s or something. i don't know anything about clocks though. how does this even work and how do i go about troubleshooting it?

Does this look like mold to you? It's grey in colour. Apparently it has been there a while, not sure if it's spread. Inside the cavity is foam ball insulation. Not sure how I'd test if it is damp in there, any ideas?

>>2756685
Another angle
Had to crop these as file size limits too small
From memory the insulation balls were also grey in colour.

>>2756623
I got an old watch recently that didn't have the original rubber/plastic band and my intention is to mount a bracket like your pic rel on the back to feed a strap through.

>>2756600
No, but thats funny because I have made shields.

>>2756683
here is the movement removed from the case

>>2756699
backside view

>>2756699
frontside view.

both springs are stuck, neither moves when i use the winding key. no idea which is for the clock itself and which is for the chime. i could maybe clean the entire movement with a soak but not sure how to properly lubricate these springs

I FUCKING HATE THIS THING!

Im trying to put up some OBS board in the garage, how the hell do I drill into this type of concrete?

I have a regular drill with a mason bit set to Hammer mode, and it barely makes a dent. Managed to get one done by repeatedly wacking it against the wall.

>>2756686
That's mold. You have a water/humidity problem in that corner. Fix that. Clean out all the mold.

>>2756779
>how the hell do I drill into this type of concrete?
You don't. You put up a row of studs right next to the wall and add your OBS to that.

>>2756783
How I'd attach the studs to the concrete?

>>2756779
>>2756783
>>2756788
just use some construction adhesive and glue it to the concrete

test

>>2756800
passed

>>2756779
>framing how does it work

>>2756698
watch bands are like $4 at the mall last time I checked (*prob $12 in 202Biden but hey)

>>2756700
overwound maybe? can you move the weights up and down? look for cogs with a tab in them (can't find what it's called, it back stops the gear or allows only one direction, or slows it) and try to gently release them letting the gear(s) spin out and unwind. once you've got whatever is locked up too hard or stuck that's supposed to rotate post progress.

I need to tie down a windmill. The outer support ring that holds the blades in place has a break in it, from where it was previously tied down. This attached image shows a chain being tied from one side of the inner support ring to the other. Would that be strong enough to keep the windmill in place, even in high winds? Or would the inner support break as well?

Let me know if I should approach this differently. There is a brake on the windmill but that is broken too.

>>2756817
i'd probably tie a rope to something really heavy placed on the ground directly below the blades, other half just tie it where you can, and make it taut so it can't rotate without lifting the heavy thing.

>>2756817
I'm a little confused, you're looking to disable the windmill and keep it from moving, but don't want to remove the windmill entirely, is that right? Permanently (keeping it for aesthetics or cost reasons) or are you just trying to increase the lifespan by only running it when when needed?

>>2756821
I need to disable the windmill for now. I'd like to keep it for aesthetics reasons. I might repair it in the future, when I need it to pump water.

>>2756818
I could anchor it, but I'm concerned that the frail structural support would break in intense wind.

>>2756842
The big concern is if it's "fixed", the wind will still put a lot of force on it. They can seize up, vanes can break off, all sorts of dumb shit. If you can fix it 90° from the direction of the wind, that'll help prolong the lifespan. I'd trust the chain like in that pic for servicing the thing, but not as a semi-permanent brake, it'll get beaten to shit and eventually fuck that support ring exactly like you stated. I'd be tempted to weld it, it'd be secure and stable, and if you ever want to bring it back into service it's just a few seconds with a grinder.

>>2756817
Pull the tail parallel to the blades.
Tie the tail to the blades so they can't spin.
This will cause it to turn so the wind won't attempt to spin the blades.

can anyone recommend a good head mounted camera so I can more easily catalogue my work? all I'm seeing on amazon is extremely chinese

I bought one of those small portable washing machines and it's making a horrible burning smell after 1 use. is it normal or did I get a defective unit? I've never had a brand new washing machine before.

>>2756961
just get a gopro.

>>2756963
they should Not be making a horrible burning smell. Many times with a new appliance or machine, it might have a slight smell from assembly oil residues etc heating up, but a "horrible burning smell" is not okay.

Please don't catch your nest on fire, anon

>>2756969
Any ideas what could be causing it? It works fine. The drum smells though and stinks up the whole room

>>2757006
motor could be burning. transformer could be burning, inductors on the control PCB could be burning. It could be a lot of things, and none of them are good. Exchange it.

>>2756964
sure, and one of those headband holders for it I guess, thanks

>>2756961
I looked and looked to find a decently priced head/body camera to go hunting with last december.
Pretty much everything sucks dick except for DJI, Insta360, and GoPros. When doing body or head mount NOTHING matters except for the stabilization, and no chinkshit random camera stabilizes well at all. Your footage will be dogshit and a waste of time.

I ended up buying a GoPro 11 at Costco with their bundle deal, its slightly cheaper than Amazon and it comes with a second battery and mini tripod.

I need a template I can print out and have the sizes be exactly what the sizes are on the template. How do I do that? I have paint.net and I was hoping to use that but if I can't, what program can I use?

>>2757040
Inkscape, set it to your preferred real-world unit of measurement, and set your canvas to your paper size.

>>2757045
Doesn't feel intuitive. Trying to make a hollow circle with a dot in its centre. I don't see a measuring tape tool like in sketchup. Why isn't there a normal image save file?

>>2756561
Can anyone recommend any good engineers in central florida?

>>2756567
Cross fittings are not made by all manufacturers as they find very little use in most plumbing situations, where two tees would serve mostly the same function. Cross fittings are often called "decorative" or "furniture grade" as they are mostly used for such purposes, hence the premium.

>>2756779
Ramset a bunch of slats horizontally and hang your OSB off of that.

>>2757040
>>2757047
QCAD is a more quantitative 2D cad software. Export file formats are a bit restricted in the free version, but it should be fine. There's also LibreCAD, which is apparently a fork of QCAD, so it might be even better.
OpenSCAD and SolveSpace both can act in 2D mode, though I'd probably stick to a dedicated 2D CAD program, unless you already have experience in OpenSCAD or whatever.

I have a bathroom dated 1971. The previous owners did fuck all except paint over the wall-to-wall faux wood paneling and change the toilet.
I recently got in, replaced the whole vanity, tore off the wallpaper header, bathed the line of green mold on vinegar and hit it with sealant, then covered everything in multiple layers of paint.
My problem is that SOMETHING is creating a smell. I don't know how to describe it except maybe vaguely sweet or flowery, such that my parents thought it might be my soap (it's definitely not).
I've tried baking soda and vinegar on the drains and I'm not sure it did anything. I thought it might have been better for a while but it could have just been the vinegar smell covering it.
I haven't taken the access panel off to look at the tub plumbing yet. The sink plumbing I just changed out so that's not it.

Any ideas what might be causing the smell and how to kill it for good?

>>2756783
The framing studs are attached to the floor and ceiling with masonry screws.

>>2757060
probably something rotting in one of the drains. hit it with some drain cleaner. Another possibility, if your bathroom has one of those ceiling fan dealios, is that there's something up in there. maybe the previous owners put a sachet of potpourri or something.

I require a soldering iron, but know absolutely nothing about them.
Is there anything I should be looking for or avoiding?

>>2757229
If it's just a simple job any cheapo should work.

>>2757229
do not buy an iron that plugs directly into the wall, so-called "temperature regulated" irons, they're basically woodburners and you will never do anything good with them.
A good inexpensive option would be a Pinecil, if you already have a >=65W phone charger.

>>2757232
This false, and a shill post

>>2757236
You are a dumbass and can't solder your way out of a wet paper bag. The pinecil is a good option because it's a cheaper TS100. If he wants to spend more, a chinky T12 station is a good option. If you've never used one you don't get to talk. Cartridge irons are the only ones that should be considered in the current year.

>>2757229
Temp control. Good temp control with a sensor in the tip, not a shitty high/low dial.

There’s a bunch of Chinese Amazon ones that are straight for like $40 or less, and they use common Hakko or Weller style tips, so you can easily find new tips as you burn through them.

This Yihua brand is real popular

I’m not a soldering autist though. I got the $5 wall plug-in one, it lasted 2 uses pretty much. Then got a weller one with the single cord to the wall and more power, it’s fine for destroying stuff. And then got a Hakko for Xmas from the bro and that’s what I use if I want to go near a circuit board, that’s the thing, real temp control and the right tip if you’re going near circuit boards.

As somebody who sort of learned how to solder, the 60/40 leaded solder is nice and easy, and don’t forget to get flux, it’s essential.

I want to laminate a picture and tape it to a urinal so people piss on it.
This is all in good fun don’t worry, but I’m struggling to figure out how to stick the picture onto the urinal?
Wouldn’t tape fall off quickly from the piss?

What would you guys do?

>>2757270
clear packing tape would work, you just have to really make sure it's pressed slick against the urinal surface, no gaps.

>>2757272
Gotcha, good idea. I supposed I would have to really wipe and dry the section I’m taping.

Any other prep I might be forgetting?

>>2757279
>Any other prep I might be forgetting?

post the pic so we can all piss on your mom.

>>2757270
Use string. Most urinals have a pipe above them, a loop will hold a lot better than tape and a moving target will serve double duty, flipping around in the stream spraying piss everywhere.

Crossposting from /hbg/:
>>2757368
>>2757373

So I bought pic rel thinking to mount it under a shelf. But it turns out it will need a box. Planning on using a 1/2" octagonal box.

I tested it on my bench, with the back open to air, box, and the back got up to 40C. Does something like this expect to have the space in a ceiling to dissipate heat? Or is 40C acceptable to have near a piece of plywood or softwood?

>>2757378
40C is fine, but I would mount it not flush, leave idk, 2 mm gap from ceiling, so it has some airflow.

>>2757413
If I go with my original plan it'll be 1/2" (12.7mm) from the ceiling.

>>2757419

>>2757375
the extra number is threads per inch
there are two standards for 3/8, 16 and 24.
usually it's 16, or "coarse" threaded
take out a ruler and count how many threads are in an inch on the stud for the wheel you want to replace

>>2757422
I don't actually have one of the casters, but thanks for the info. I'll either contact SS Brewtech and ask or just order and return until it fits.

>>2757424
Better yet would be to buy a 3/8-16 and 3/8-24 bolt and see which one fits.

>>2757425
smart, thanks. I assume now that nearly all bolts are UNC? Hadn't considered that prior.

>>2757435
From the 2nd pic you posted they look like coarse.

There's no point in specifying non-standard bolts and crap. They just cost more and are more of a hassle. Unless you want to lock people into buying only your parts for repairs.

>>2757442
>coarse
??

>>2757445
3/8-16 = coarse pitch
3/8-24 = fine pitch

I'm trying to minimize the water level in a system that uses a float valve to regulate such. How can I determine the optimal height to install the float such that my submersible heating element will still be covered?

>>2757450
thanks m8

>>2757445
>coarse
It puts the C in UNC.

>>2757425
>>2757435
Wow where is anon to tell us that there’s no way anybody could possibly ever need a thread checker when anon could just bring his whole homebrew setup to Ace Hardware and find the right bolt?

>>2757482
There are people who don't own a thread checker?

>>2757378
>up to 40C

consider something like the pic.
it has movement detection so it's only on when you're around.
this means it has lots of time to cool. meaning life is greatly extended.
1200 lumens, 50,000 hours (if you believe such numbers).

>>2757482
I’m trying to check a female though. I have the table with female threads, and want wheels for it. I don’t want to pay $20/wheel though. I guess I could deconstruct it and just take the female piece down to the hardware store and poke bolts into it

>>2757464
>fill to desired height
>install floatvalve

>>2757378
>But it turns out it will need a box.
>need
are you getting an inspection?

>>2757229
a cheapo wall plug in is fine for anything but doing boards. you don't need temp control, you want it to be hot af, most problems come from a cheapo that doesn't get very hot or taking so long to get hot the heat starts to travel and melt other shit.

ofc, many assumptions, what are you soldering? how often do you need it?

so the trick is to heat THE WIRE and not the solder. once the wire is hot the solder will melt into it. once the solder is melted into the strands it is a lot easier to work with because it melts faster. So you pre-solder the wire ends before trying to put shit together.

I believe you also should coat the soldering tip in solder before using the tool and occasionally wipe the tip because it will get flux built up.

>>2757488
The other “life changing tool” thread, yeah, one guy bitching about how nobody really needs one because you can bring the part with the female or male threads (depending what you need) into a store and match it, which isn’t always possible or practical on large items.

>>2757494
Lol I’m making a joke. There are thread checkers that make this shit easy. You could also measure it and buy a handful of bolts that look close and see which one fits. But that’s why it’s nice to have picrel around.

>>2757237
>>2757239
Replace the USB PD trigger IC/board with a microcontroller, which would also control a P-channel MOSFET that gates the power flow. Should be doable with a cheap 8-pin MCU (e.g. ATtiny, CH32V003, PIC, STM8) by bit-banging the protocol, not sure if native-USB MCUs would make the job easier. I'd advise making a custom PCB for it so you can choose a more solidly mounted USB-C connector, and also make it smaller.

You could also investigate the PMIC(s) on the laptop board to see if they're tolerant of undervoltage, since they probably are. Then you could use a normal PD trigger module. Or even replace the PMIC with one that handles USB C, though you'd probably need to rework a lot of stuff.

>>2757238
Firstly it's a cheaper TS101 not TS100, and secondly it's only cheaper if you're within the USA. Both are less ergonomic than T12 station handles in both their shape and in their tip-to-grip distance, and it's not quite as easy to hot-swap them. That said, T12 station QC is kinda bad. Somehow we still don't have a TS101-like iron that uses the superior conventional T12 tips, nor one that's powered from an XT60. Tough times we live in.

>>2757513
You could also just stock one bolt of every size. It's not a huge expense and it could save you a trip to the hardware store one day. I'm not saying to get all sizes like 1" and bigger, but at least 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2 and M5-M12, in both UNC and UNF threads. Long bolts can always be hacksawed shorter if clearance is an issue.

>>2757413
40°C is way more than acceptable. Body temperature is 38.5°C and I've never heard of a wood chair catching on fire from sitting on it.

>>2757570
>>2757378
I meant to reply to this. Also in case it was not clear, I meant that 40°C is perfectly fine.

>>2756686
Cut open the plaster/drywall, set a fan up for a few days
Figure out if the moisture is running down the whole cavity or is just at the bottom or what
I would remove the insulation and spray foam anywhere that is water stained in the wall cavity

If there's a sewer line/vent in that wall, the problem might be at the roof
If it's a basement, water might be coming up between the floor and wall

>>2757513
>one guy bitching about how nobody really needs one
The only people who need them are retards quite frankly.

>>2757482
Im right here
This is the funniest shit ive seen all night.
Bepis needs a thread checker to figure out what the TPI of a quote "3/8" UNC x 2" bolt is.
What a Gotcha post!

>>2757570
>Body temperature is 38.5°C
Fuck I hadn't thought of this :D

>>2757570
>Body temperature is 38.5°C
i think you have a fever, anon

>>2757615
well the temperature it gets up to with its upper side occluded may well be higher than when it's powered up on your bench, but probably not more than 15° higher

>>2756794
I do this but I'll put oneor2 tapcons in so I don't have to hold it

>>2757060
Mold around the toilet
Lift it, dry it, reset the toilet with a rubber gasket instead of wax

Could just be perfume stuck on some surface also

>>2757060
Check in the toilet's water tank.

>>2757605
If you say so. Other anon sure could use one right about now.

>>2757567
Yes but then you need one with a hex head, one with the pan head in phillips and slotted, and an internal hex set. Hell, maybe you should get a dozen of each because often times something breaks and shears multiple screws or bolts.

>>2757238
Damn those T12 stations, I’m always so tempted to grab one of those and a Chinesium adapter for Ridgid and Ryobi batteries. I know they sell battery caps with two wires for nu-boomers to wire into Power Wheels when they want to brick their Craftsman batteries.

If the lights turn on in my car and it turns over but won't start is the battery salvageable?

>>2757843
Maybe you can jump start it, but there's a reasonable chance the battery is just toast if it hasn't been sitting for months.

>>2757843
>if the thing doesn't manage to do the job it's designed for, is it still salvageable?

>>2757843
That’s likely a no… if you’re anon from the other thread. That’s why you need to “load test” batteries, they might read good voltage when not being used or a light load like interior lights, so you put a large load on the thing (like a starter motor cranking) and see how low the voltage drops. A healthy battery will go from mid 12V with no load and drop down to like mid 10V maybe when cranking, but a weak battery will go much lower.

>>2757425
I’d assume it was a metric size desu

>>2757567
>You don’t need a thread checker, just buy all the components of a thread checker, but without the convenience of them being hooked together.

>>2757605
Your reading comprehension is bad.

Please help me build a diy chastity belt for my gf. What material should i use? Could i even cast/mold something from maybe medical plastic or something? How would a simple locking mechanism look like?
I was thinking about connecting two leather straps, in a T shape and then having a lock in the front under the belly button where the hip and crotch strap lock together.
She (although she doesn't know about my plans for her) and I thank you a lot.

>>2757843
>it turns over but won't start is the battery salvageable
depends of how fast it's turning over.
If it spins normally, the battery isn't the problem
If it goes wrunk... wrunk... wrunk... click, click, - no, the battery is not salvageable

>>2757958
>If it goes wrunk... wrunk... wrunk... click, click, - no, the battery is not salvageable

Unless it just needs charging?

>>2757958
this is the patently wrong thing the guy selling you a battery will tell you. this is exactly what happens when the battery is low. the question is whether it's low and needs a charge or low because it's bad. driving around for 20min should be enough to start the car again without assistance, so jump start it, drive around for 20+ minutes and turn it off in the auto parts store parking lot.

>>2757833
>If you say so. Other anon sure could use one right about now.
What for?
He went to his brewpub manufacturers website, and it told him exactly what caster he needed.
Instead of saying TPI 16 it simply stated its UNC.
I get how thats unfathomably hard for you to figure out what "UNC" might mean in terms of pitch for a bolt.

>>2757948
You didnt actually read the original post

>>2757999
So which size is the correct one?

>>2757837
They make a bunch of these sorts of things on aliexpress. Personally I'd rather have one that's low-profile with a belt clip. The screen would point straight up when it's on your belt, and sideways when it's on a flat surface, so maybe it would benefit from a little fold-out stand. Also put an iron holder right next to it.

>>2758046
>I'd rather have one ... with a belt clip.

soldering iron hanging from your belt?
you are gonna be so fuckin' ridiculed.
better to attach it to a construction helmet with velcro, so you look like a pro.
or get a gas-powered one hanging from an earring, like a boss.

>>2758088
The whole reason to want a cordless iron is because you're in the field, somewhere away from electrical outlets and flat surfaces. Where the hell else do I put the battery, if not on a belt clip? Get one of those DeWalt meme backpacks? My brother works in the automotive industry, he has a shitty battery-powered iron that runs off an 18650 or whatever inside the handpiece, it's bulky and you have to constantly hold down the button to get any heat into the tip. He can probably just use a normal iron on an extension cord when he's in the workshop, but that's not always the case.

>gas
Gas makes more sense in a lot of cases, but electrical does have superior temperature control in the event you're soldering something that can actually get overheated. Like a non-PTFE/silicone insulated wire or connector, or literally anything on a UAV.

>inb4 pinecil
A TS101 or pinecil running from a 65W+ 20000mAh power bank is a fat brick in your pocket, is more easily damaged, has no place to rest your hot iron between soldering, won't last as long, and means another battery you have to buy. A lot of people already have 18V tool batteries in their toolbox.

>>2758043
There was never 2 sizes in the first place, just some other anon who didnt read the original post and started clamoring on about 2 sizes

This is the correct one, the only one that was posted.
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/products/hd-casters-unitanks-chronicals-brites

Is it true that the low boiling point version of kerosene(in a very small dose) cures all sorts of cancers? I heard about some interesting testimonials from some German newspaper in the 60's.

>>2758211
>I heard about some interesting testimonials from some German newspaper in the 60's.
Wow. Such a totally reliable source.

>>2758211
no

>>2757957
molded plastic, leather straps, all stitched leather, fashion belts with oversized holes, nylon straps, zip ties even. fiberglass, resin, 3d printed, plaster cast right from her penis, the sky is the limit and the only thing stopping you is your lack of ability, knowledge, gf, and tools of any kind.

>>2757938
the literal definition of fixing literally anything?

>>2758211
Dude, think about it. A cure for "all sorts of cancers" would earn a company billions of dollars. Do you really think it's going to be ignored for 50 years?

>>2757957
>she doesn't know about my plans for her
So my suggestion is some rope. Make a loop that will fit your head. Attach the other end to a stout beam. Swing from your neck.

Any utility bros want to explain what this means? I know pink means temp markings and I'm pretty sure it was done by a fiber company. They also drew a pink box in the yard.

my car recently has a lot of humidity on the interior of the windshield.
i'm thinking i should get some kind of dehumidifer that i can leave in the car overnight.
of course when i look on amazon, there's a lot of chink garbage.
so my question is, what is the general solution to a humidity problem, what kind of product should i buy? any recommendations?

>>2758250
Pack it in rice.

>>2758254
the car?

pic is a outdoor water pipe which connects a underwater pump and some other pipes dumping water in the garden. There is a leak where the blue circle is I can't really figure out where because of the white stuff (already tried removing it no idea what it is) so it leaks a bit when the pump runs. How would I go about fixing this or even removing the pipe? Do I just cut it off at the yellow part?
Never did any water stuff before this water isn't for drinking is there some sort of tape that would do the job?

>>2758229
Pr9bably gonna pothole the road there to turn the duct to make it pop up in the yard for a 2x3 terminal/drop box

>>2758225
>Do you really think it's going to be ignored for 50 years?
If it's $5.00 per gallon it's use as a treatment for anything will be (((debunked)))
>horse paste

>>2758258
>already tried removing it no idea what it is

It's white silicone rubber. You'll have to cut it off and wire brush the remaining bits.

>>2758258
>How would I go about fixing this or even removing the pipe? Do I just cut it off at the yellow part?

It's 3/4" or 20mm copper pipe. The proper way to change it out is with a torch and solder.
Once you get the silicone rubber off you should be able to make a better judgement on where and what to "fix".

>>2758258
This >>2758296

Time to learn to solder! Or you could cut off the old crap and then you may be able to do sharkbite fittings, especially since it’s outdoors. They don’t seem to be as unreliable as the boomer plumbers say, but if you did somehow have an issue, a leak on an outdoor pipe 10 years down the road isn’t a big deal.

While you’re in there, if any of those valves are getting old and crappy, you might want to replace the whole mess. It’s never a bad idea to replace old valves when you’re working in an area even if they’re not currently leaking or broken.

>>2758258
The red arrow is where you should use the torch to remove the offending bit.
You'll then be able to replace it with a non-leaking fitting of a similar design.

>>2756561
I am struggling to get my head around this. I was told to power a large number of LEDs with an arduino, I shouldn't use the power supply of the nano, but how would I power an RGB LED with a battery and then use the arduino to edit the R,G, and B values?

>>2758314
You got four leads it’s either common anode so RGB+ or RGB-. There are cheap $3 drivers that use serial or I2C or analog inputs, or you can make your own with a transistor. Usually the brightness is PWM controlled

see aliexpress item 1005004802556820 for example.

>>2758293
Ah. So you are an idiot.

>>2758304
Wtf, how did you remove the yellow and blue circles

>>2758380

I want to make my chicken coop door open automatically. Right now it opens from the top with hinges at the bottom creating a ramp for the chickens to walk up. In my mind I would like to fashion something like a drawbridge with cables attached to the door leading to a small dc motor powered reel, all controlled by a raspberry pi. I can pretty much figure everything out but I have NO IDEA where to get an appropriate reel. it doesn't have to be very big since it'll only be holding a few feet of cable when the door is closed and I want it to fit nicely inside the somewhat small space of the coop. I've never bought parts like this for a DIY project, so if anyone could point me in the right direction I would be very appreciative. Suggestions on an appropriate dc motor would also be appreciated!

>>2758416
>Suggestions on an appropriate dc motor

if you're a typical DIY'er you have about 10 useless drills (and electric screwdrivers) with dead batteries.
add a 12V supply, a clamp to hold the trigger at the right speed, and a DPDT relay to turn it on and reverse.
a reel is easy to make with a 3-inch long bolt and 2 circular pieces of wood.
drawbridge chain can be made from bicycle brake cable or clothesline.

>>2758229
Those are hobo markings. They are gonna do a “hot pot” in whoever leaves their car door unlocked

>>2758416

>>2758456
I was going to say that's overkill, but then I saw it was for RC cars. The problem is then Load Limits: 2.5-3KG

Combi boiler was noticeably colder yesterday, and likely had been for a couple of days. Radiators were hot, but not too hot to touch while the temp in the boiler was up at max. Woke up this morning, radiators were now too hot to touch again.

Any ideas why? Sludge in the heat exchanger that then got moved out?

>>2758503
Alright, radiators seem to be cycling hot and cold every 15 minutes. 5 minutes ago the radiator was hot but not too hot to touch, and the boiler was reading 72C. Now the boiler is reading 80C, and the radiators are too hot to touch.

Does a daisy chaining a four 3v LED onto a 12v battery split the voltage around or burn them all? If not, is there another way to do it without a resistor?

Does daisy chaining four 3v LED onto a 12v battery split the voltage around or burn them all? If it burns them all, is there a way to do it without a resistor?

>>2758543
>split ... voltage or burn them

both options equally likely.
depends on specific characteristics of the parts.

>a way to do it without a resistor?

sure, instead of 1 resistor, you use 2.
and two transistors. to make a constant current source.

>>2758456
>>2758491
Is that door over 6kg? For a hinging door you need to pull only half the weight. With a pulley even half that. Also you don’t want to squeeze a chicken between the gate so a small motor like that with some stall protection circuit would be safer I guess

>>2756561
Can someone explain pic related to me? Why is the negative terminal of the battery connected to the positive terminal of the multi-meter with a resistor between? Why does the multi-meter read a small voltage if the aforementioned path is removed, even when the push-button isn't being pressed?

>>2758594
The resistor provides a 'load' for the battery so it can be tested while being used.
This gives a better indication of the state of the battery.

i think its unlikely ill get an answer for this before i do it, but i was heating a flask of potassium dichromate and it shattered. about 50g of total. i wiped up what i could and put it in bucket, and sprayed down the surfaces with an acidic metabisulfite solution.
problem is, the hotplate is covered with it.
i was reading up on wastewater treatment, and it looks like a solution of metabisulfite at a pH of 3 or so should reduce the hexavalent chromium in about 30 seconds.
i was thinking about making a solution of that, submerging the hotplate in it for about 30 seconds, and then submerging it in water.
this seems like a good idea but i don't want to be too hasty. however i figure the longer i wait, the chromium is going to just oxidize the fuck out of it.

/tg/ here. I'm making board game inserts out of 1.5mm thick cardboard. I have a generic xacto knife, and that cardboard just chews through blades. A retractable box knife where you can snap the blade tip would be ideal, but all the ones I was able to find don't hold the blade firmly and it's hard to be precise with it. What's a good alternative for precise cuts, but with better durability?

>>2758551
>R=I/0.5
Why not write it as R=2*I?

>>2758624
>wastewater
Dump it down the sink. Not my problem.

>>2758637
Just buy a big pack of blades? I get mine from China, I think my last stack of 100 cost me like 8 bucks? If you're doing commercial work consider laser cutting instead.

>>2758637
>all the ones I was able to find don't hold the blade firmly and it's hard to be precise with it.

get a better knife

https://www.olfaproducts.com/olfa-sac-1-model-9150-graphic-cutter.html

>>2758672
Excellent, thanks.

>>2756561
Where can I find black body emission frequncy info for low temps metals (300k)? I have been searching for while and all I find is marketing crap from various vendors but no useful info.

>>2758637
It's not that hard to sharpen x-acto blades. The old bottom of the coffee cup meme would work fine, as well as 400-600 sandpaper on a piece of glass, or just a cheap little stone of course.

>>2758304
>>2758301
> torch
like in here https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=SR_6B1Cul0o&t=62 ?

>>2758675
+1 on snap blade knoife guy. Olfa and NT Cutter are both nice Jappo brands and they’re cheap. 8mm is more of the Exacto knife size, and I think the 30 degree blade models are the ones shaped like Exactos with a more pointed blade. Pic related is more the standard angle.

I'm painting my house, is an old house and the top floor still has stippled ceilings

Should I fuck with this or just paint over it?
What am I in for?

>>2758681
Assume metals have an emissivity of 0.05%
https://www.flukeprocessinstruments.com/en-us/service-and-support/knowledge-center/infrared-technology/emissivity-metals

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emissivity

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/emissivity-coefficients-d_447.html

It's pretty easy to find tables of this stuff if you know the right places.

>>2758681
That being said, your question makes little sense to me. What exactly do you want to know?
Metals do not emit any radiation other than IR or, when heated, visible light. The frequency of all emissions related to temperature (red hot, white hot, etc) is the same for all materials.

>>2758757
Wew lad you need to repair/fill that crack somehow before you paint or it will look like absolute shit. I would say just mud it, but you gotta figure out why it cracked first. Sucks because you could do a new piece of drywall but then would have to recreate the texture to make it match.

>>2758707
Yes, but you don't want to touch the copper with bare hands when heating it. Copper conducts heat as well as electricity.
Take the hose off, heat it at the red arrow and twist as you pull the fitting away from the ell.
(wearing gloves, of course)

>>2758543
Four LEDs in series across 12V will split the voltage into 3V for each LED, but LEDs are not exactly 3V and not all the time, their voltage changes with current and with temperature. You would not be immune to "thermal runaway" frying your LEDs. That's why all common 12V LED strips use three 3V LEDs and one resistor in each segment. There's not really a good way around this, you can't just buy a current limiting component that takes up less than 1V of drop and prevents your LEDs from frying themselves. Yet.

>>2758594
The resistor pulls down the voltage at the button's pin, it is called a pulldown resistor. Without it, if the button was not pressed, the voltage being measured would be undefined. In practice, the impedance of the meter will pull it down towards 0V, but it could easily be influenced by local electric fields. Set your meter to the smallest volts range and wave the probes about, they're not just going to read 0V all the time.

>>2758624
When it happens, take apart the hotplate so you can submerge contaminated areas without getting any electronics wet. Even a dumb hotplate will probably suffer from water getting into any thermostatic switch, though such parts are typically easy to replace. If you're worried, ensure your glassware is actual borosilicate, unlike that guy who had his arms blown off for using "pyrox" glassware or some shit. Apparently not all "pyrex" branded glassware is borosilicate anyhow. A pre-emptive move might be to put a layer of aluminium foil or sheet metal between the hotplate and the glassware, preferably quite a wide layer. Though maybe your dichromate will just eat through it.

Definitely a stupid question since I've never been on this board, but I'm trying to figure out of it's possible to make some sort of harness or something so I can be strengthening my neck more passively, but I can't figure out what that would look like. Even a pitiful suggestion would be appreciated.

>>2758866
you remind me of this

>>2758866
>>2758890
wait no i meant this

>>2758866
>strengthening my neck

neck stretcher uses bag of water and a pulley to stretch that fucker, giving you ballerina-like poise and pain relief.
hang it from the ceiling while you watch porn.
$35 new, $5 at the thrift store, free if you DIY it.

Going to try this here since i don't want to open a thread.

I have built a small fence 50' x 50 ' out on desert property I have. Problem is that the lot is very sandy and I have a small 2wd vehicle. I would like to make this area accessible so i can drive the vehicle into the fenced area. I took a picture of the area of interest on a drone and traced out the watercourse. Essentially I would like to build a dirt road traced in yellow but I want to know if anyone knows of the best way to divert/manage the water and preserve the dirt road for as long as I can with minimal maintenance. I will be renting a skid steer to do the initial grading/leveling and move as much sand as possible, but I'm not sure whats the best way to 1. hold back the sand from taking over the driveway and 2. divert water from cutting into the driveway.

Will appreciate any guidance.

>>2758857
>When it happens, take apart the hotplate so you can submerge contaminated areas without getting any electronics wet
I submerged the whole thing anyway. I didn't want to fuck with it. acidic metabisulfite should reduce the bulk of the chromium practically instantly.
I then rinsed it with water and tilted it around to let the water run out. probably won't be fucking with it for a month or so, I predict it will be fine and all the water will evaporate but time will tell.
I think the breaker was one that already had a chip in it and it was just a perfect storm. definitely going to put hotplates in a "containment basin" like a steel trough or something because it wasn't very fun neutralizing splattered hexavalent chromium off the walls and floor. fingers crossed I haven't increased my cancer odds too much.

If I want to get into small hobby electronics like lights, fans, motors and stuff like that with batteries and circuitry, where should I start reading / watching?

>>2756779
Rent a hilti concrete nailer.

>>2756561
How can i clean or filter water in a water tank, without emptying it?

>>2758944
>where should I start reading

arduino.cc

>>2758949
Pog ty. Is that good for voltage / amp / watt teaching too?

>>2758946
Keep pumping it through a filter and back in until it's clean.

>>2758950

click ''Documentation'' at the top.

if you're a theory geek, try the first few chapters of Horowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics.
available at a fine torrent site near you.

Friend sent me this picture of his guitar. It is a handmade cigar box guitar. The back of the neck has these spots on it that he believes is either mold/rotting wood, or damaged/peeling clearcoat.

When he rubs it, nothing happens, but if he scrapes it, it flakes off. It feels slightly soft in those two spots.
Is this mold, or clearcoat flaking? And what ways can this be fixed? Just wet sand it down until theyre gone, and then seal with epoxy? Any better options?

>>2758952
Bless you, my child.

>>2758937
it's fine if you don't breathe it in, erin brockovich was a lying hack

>>2758953
looks like clearcoat flaking to me, though it's quite likely that some dirt has gotten into those spots as a result of the lack of clearcoat. it's almost certainly not mould. i'd definitely want to re clearcoat it, not sure if i'd sand back the whole thing, just the spots, or do no sanding at all. ask the woodworking general. they may tell you that polyurethane is a sin against god and that you should coat the guitar in beeswax, which you probably shouldn't listen to.

i'm looking for an off the shelf product to fix a broken trace on a flexible membrane. it needs to be conductive, flexible, and somewhat easy to apply, maybe some kind of conductive silicone paste? i can't solder a new trace because the flexible membrane is made of plastic and it would melt.
any ideas? it's a broken trace on a pair of otherwise functional planar magnetic headphones before you ask. i'm considering just bridging the broken trace with a piece of aluminum foil and then using a silicone glue to make sure it sticks, but i'm thinking i might need some kind of solution to wet the surfaces so the contact is much more secure since they'll be shaking a lot.

how do I cut a perfect circle from perforated stainless steel like this? I need to do it about 4 times. Making false bottoms for stainless drums.

>>2758250
dessicant powder on the floor matts, vaccuum up when done.

>>2759021
Also, I need to cut stainless square tubing. My friend has an angle grinder, and I might be able to borrow shears. should be easy enough with those tools, right?

>>2759021
>>2759024
Lastly, what welder do I want to weld stainless tubing, triclamp bulkheads and stuff like that? A Miller TIG?

>>2759025
SOrry to double post so much but it'd be great if the welder could run on 120v, standard US household.

I want to get this because I could use an organized socket set and it's very compact, but my oil drop pan plug bolt is 14mm. Should I just get it and swap my drop pan bolt to one with a 13mm head?

How can I get a square cut on 4" PVC using a circ saw? I'm tempted to buy a compact folding hacksaw handtool or something. I don't need to do this often.

>>2759066
a speed square will work as a 'guide'
use the lipped edge against the side of the pipe
rotate the pipe after the first cut and use the cut to locate the blade for the second cut

>>2759092
kinda like this

>>2759060
Those are 1/4" square drive.
Which is fine if you're using a small impact driver and that hex drive adapter in the kit.
But generally only good for small sockets.

For your oil pan, no, you should use a 14mm socket, not try to buy a different drain plug... that's silly.
But don't use it with an impact driver ... if you do need a socket, it'd be a good idea to get a ratchet with a 1/2" square drive.

Or just get a 14mm box end wrench and use that when you change your oil. That's what I use. For a drain plug you only need leverage for the initial loosen or the final tighten ... otherwise you can just unscrew it with your fingers anyway, so using sockets and ratchets and impact drivers is just overkill and unnecessary complexity..

is the lead-based solder you can buy off amazon actually lead-based or do they just lie about it and sell you lead free solder anyway?

>>2759060
They sell a 3/8 drive set that would include a 14 I’m sure. And 3/8” drive is more practical if you’re going to keep a ratchet and half a dozen sockets for a car repair kit.

Or get a socket rail and cut it down to whatever 5-6 sockets cover most of your car.

Also the impact sockets… #1, an impact driver isn’t going to wreck small chrome sockets so 1/4” impact sockets are sort of unnecessary. #2, impact sockets are fatter, if you have a deeply recessed 6mm or 8mm bolt or tight clearances around the head of the bolt in an engine bay, sometimes a chrome socket fits where an impact doesn’t.

>>2759121
It probably is. Lead and tin are cheap, there’s not much of a reason for them to lie about that one.

i'm gonna be using silicon carbide belts to grind glass bottles, what mask/face protection should i be wearing?

i need an air jizzel for an important and dificult repair. Is it worth it to pay double or even trippel for an IR instead of buying a chink one? Do i cuck myself buying a shorter for better access? unfortunately I can find a proper test on the 123max

>>2759158
first of all, a little exposure wont kill you.
glass is crystalline silica and wont give you the coof, pure silicon carbide from a good belt probably too
A respirator with the lowest rated particle filter would do, i cant stand paper masks

>>2759169
>an important and difficult repair.

Specify the repair because that's often relevant as is exactly how you intend to do it because there may be an optimal way you don't know about that could save time and suffering.

TTC dyno test and the table should answer any question you have:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J98ZbUmPxqU

>>2759175
>should answer any question you have:
unfortunately no, as they only tested long ones, im kinda asking for a short stroke,
>Specify the repair
drive a pin out of a bloomed, coroded aluminum alloy part. i did my homework, the air hammer is the best method

>>2759169
Most air tools are fairly damn simple, it’s not hard to get cheap air tools that work ok for a handful of jobs. Whether you would want to live with them 40hrs a week is another story, as is finding parts a couple years down the road when you want to rebuild them.

I’m sure a long barrel IR will have more balls, but maybe your interwebs will have a chinesium long barrel or bigger shank for cheap if you need lots of power. There’s some reputable air tools brands under IR pricing as well, but not sure about Aussie availability

I need guide how develop ASIC from 0.

Any good books/courses? Maybe some path how learn it

>>2759181
Questions like these sound like they come from Rajesh who got hired based on a fictitious resume and now have to do their homework.
Here's how to make microchips at home:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFzsyQOTXbM

>>2759172
I don't mind paper masks, I'm guessing a P3 mask would be good enough then?

>>2756561
First, why the fuck can't I post a thread? I keep getting stuck with a 5 minute waiting period, and on trying to get a captcha, it restarts.
Secondly, where should I start looking for scrap to use in casting after I burn through my broken household electronics.

>>2759212
>p3 good enough then?
thats the finest grade lol

>>2759021
>cut circle
a handheld power nibbler would cut that very well. maybe rig up a trammel to revolve it around the center vs freehanding along a line
>weld
ss under 1/4" only takes 50-60A to tig weld, so any little crackerjack chink dc inverter will work. primeweld is the best bang/reliability for the buck going these days. lift arc tig is pretty easy to figure out, but ending the bead takes skill. easiest way is to kick the ground clamp of with your foot when you want to stop instead of snapping the torch away and losing shielding. all the supplemental shit for tig will cost more than the welder itself, especially a cylinder of argon

I have a guy who's quoting me an insanely low price to replace a roof. Picture not related. Other quotes are $18,000-22,000, this guy is saying $14,000 for a complete tear-off, disposal, materials and labor for a team of three on replacement. Says he'll use whatever shingles, skylights, flashing I want, so I can at least avoid shit products but I'm still suspicious. Part of his pitch is that I can pick out and pay for materials myself, or through him at cost.

I know there's no free lunch, but what can I do as a homeowner to make sure this guy does things right? I can control all the materials so I know that's quality but what else? Extra nails per shingle, properly done flashing etc. What should I look for, how do I reign in shitty work without being up on the roof to watch over (without knowing what I'm doing)?

cross-posting from /ohm/ because this might be a very stupid question
>>2759325

>>2759216
Find out when your neighborhood's heavy trash pick up day is and drive around the night before. Repeat for other nearby neighborhoods. Any metal or electronics that I need gone can simply be placed on my curb and some brown person will come by and take it within 24 hours.

>>2758951
That won't clean gunk stuck to the walls/floor

>>2758953
>mold/rotting wood, or damaged/peeling clearcoat.
It's the clearcoat reacting to sweat. This is normal for guitars.

>>2759012
>bridging the broken trace with a piece of aluminum foil

haha, that'll never work right.
i would try two things
1 - conductive paint (aka conductive ink) -- very expensive. you can DIY some according to the internet, but i never tried that.
2 - find the endpoints of the flex cable and solder a wire across those fixed points. i've done this many times.

>>2759327
resolved (for now)

>>2759012
How much flexing does the membrane do? I’ve done emergency fixes on busted flex/ribbon/ffc(whatever you call them) cables for prototypes that needed to work now by scraping away top layer with scalpel, bridging with magnet wire or solder depending on the pitch and size of the break in the trace, then covering with that uv cure solder mask you can get on aliexpress and ebay. It looks ugly as shit and it’s fairly fragile but it works. You have to be quick and control temp to avoid delaminating the traces from the substrate

>>2759189
I know my english retarder, but im not rajesh fuck them
poo in the loo

>>2759385
i found some "silver conductive wire glue" that i ordered off fleabay, going to take ages to ship here from chyna though.
>>2759389
the membrane is acting like a speaker diaphragm so it's going to shake and flex every time it transmits sound. the ol magnet wire bridge trick won't work because the thing will melt as soon as the iron touches it.
i'm going to try using a thin foil to bridge the traces and then hope this glue i'm buying can keep it attached. going to use a light layer of it just to wet the surfaces for good contact because it'll probably become too rigid if i use too much and affect the flexing of the diaphragm or just break apart.

>>2759231
>nibbler
never heard of such a cute little thing, thanks. angle grinder wouldn't work? my friend has one of those

>stainless
I can use a 240v 50a outlet, and I'll check out the primeweld. everything i want to weld should be under 1/4", but it's mostly stainless

>>2759101
Ok, I think I'll just leave a 14mm wrench in my car then, good thinking.

>>2759152
I don't have an immediate use for the 3/8" set so I was going to wait until I do. When I do I'll probably get a socket rail, but I like the rubber housing on this a lot more, that's really why I'm getting it.

>>2759097
thanks but that looks really sketch, a handsaw seems a lot safer and ultimately more accurate? i was thinking I could rig up a chop saw rig for my saw if i really needed to.

>>2759097
what would you recommend for a blade? this is probably what I'll do in all likelyhood

What’s is everyone’s “do it all” bag?

I work in maintenance, so work on a wide variety of stuff and don’t usually know what I’m walking into/what tools I might need. I keep a small tool bag of stuff that will get me through most minor repairs or allow me to diagnose the problem so I can go get a specific set of speciality tools or whatever.
>6 in 1 screwdriver
>adjustable wrench
>needle nose pliers
>flashlight
>voltage detector
>wire strippers and a handful of elec connectors
>elec tape
>channel locks
>tape measure
>pencil
>small set of Allen keys
>multimeter in case clipped on the side
Any other cool/useful/light tools I could add? Or just talk about what’s in your “main” bag or tool case

I want to make a steam-powered generator that can charge small-medium batteries with a boiler sitting on a woodstove and a DC motor as the generator.
Would I be able to use one of these as the turbine to drive the generator?
Can I feed it with steam?
Will I be able to (safely) create enough steam pressure to even turn one of these?

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-tools/air-grinders-sanders-polishers/air-die-grinder-with-3-inch-extension-99698.html

>>2759513
>Would I be able to use one of these as the turbine to drive the generator?
no
>Can I feed it with steam?
once
>Will I be able to (safely) create enough steam pressure to even turn one of these?
no

>>2759515
Teardowns of these look like they're all metal on the inside. Might have to find a heat-tolerant lubricant and find a way to purge it so it won't rust up at shutdown.
Also looking at dental drills/pneumatic engravers.
Steam boiler and rotary DC generator are all reasonably overcomable problems.
I'm just looking for a cheap solution using something off-the-shelf vs. dumping a bunch of time and money to CNC pieces for a piston setup

Glue question.
Can I do anything practical with styrofoam and acetone glue? I get a ton of useless styro.

I use a lot of construction adhesive, wood and white glue, epoxy, and CA glue.

>>2759470
>what would you recommend for a blade?

The finest blade you have. (cross-cut plywood blade)
If you only have coarse blades, put one on reversed.

>>2759468
>thanks but that looks really sketch,

I use it regularly. The rib on the edge of the square makes a V with the plane of the square for the pipe to fit against.

>>2759555
Styrofoam + gasoline makes what we called napalm as a kid. Good firestarter and sticky as balls.

>>2759486
Tried to fine tune mine to a small bag after seeing a handyman my old landlord would use bring in only the small bag to diagnose stuff and then get the real tools when you know what the issue is.

>compact 1/4” impact driver + bits
>smaller AC/DC clamp meter + NCV
>folding hex and torx keys
>11-in-1, precision 14-in-1, stubby 6-in-1
>16ft tape measure + 9” level
>cobra-type pliers 10”/7”
>linesman pliers
>multi-function sparky pliers
>needle nose pliers
>7” vise grips
>telescoping magnet pickup tool
>teflon tape + electrical tape
>magnetic work light + small inspection penlight w/ UV
>drywall saw and tin shears
>pliers wrench and small crescent wrench
>big flathead screwdriver for prying
>utility knoife
There’s a couple more pliers in there I could probably drop. I strongly reccomend keeping the magnetic pickup tool in the bag because it’s small and a lifesaver.

>>2759486
>>2759667
Oh and a couple small things I forgot that have been essentials
>couple small picks, one straight and one hooked or right angle
>sharpie and pencil

From time to time I find myself wanting a hammer in there, but I don’t want to add another 1lb+ and the long handle. Maybe the cheap stubby HF hammers would work. But for the time being, the little pry bar has a small square head that can do some tappin when needed.

Probably going to pull the small pruning/drywall saw out, haven’t run into much where a utility blade, sheet metal shears, and brute strength won’t get the job done.

Multimeter also has the NCV built in, but the small NCV is much easier to stick in outlets or appliances when working quickly whereas the the full meters with an NCV function, I have no idea where they’re really detecting voltage, it’s not a sensitive tip like the dedicated NCV which can pick out a live wire in a loaded box.

>>2756686
> Cut open the plaster/drywall, set a fan up for a few days

Oh yeah blow the spores everywhere

>>2759669
Very nice bag. I may grab a magnet tool, and I like the look of that prybar, it is kind of hammer-like for when you need to do some tapping instead of driving a nail. I could see that being handy. Weight is key so hybrid tools are great, generally I’d say get 2 specific purpose quality tools instead of 1 hybrid that sucks at both.. but for the diagnosis bag if I can get 59% utility out of each aspect of the tool I’m happy.
Forgot to mention these
>handful of tech screws, couple anchors, some wire terminal connectors
>linesman pliers
These are right on the cutoff for me. I keep them in my “2nd bag” but have also used them in my main one as well. Very useful tool, just kind of heavy to bring to everything. I also keep a rolled up flap of duct tape, not a whole roll but maybe like 10ft around a piece of cardboard. Works great when you just need to take something off till tomorrow, or hold something in place till a part comes in, etc.
what brand screwdriver you rocking? Typically I’m a Klein man but someone gave me a Lennox and I really like it. Great selection of nut driver options

What fucking screw do I need to match the silver one? The black one (M3 0.5pitch 10mm long) is almost an exact match but the thread pitch is wrong.

>>2759743
#4-40?

>>2759743
You dont have anything else to measure other than a ruler?

>>2759761
That's roughly 2.1mm....i need something around 3mm. Calipers measure 2.8mm

>>2759780
#4 is .112" od. that's 2.84 commie units

>>2759788
Ok I'll double check that thanks. I'm a fucking idiot and screws are difficult to me

>>2757040
look up Freehand MX there is a crack floating around. I still use it to this day because it actually does useful shit exactly like this.

>>2758456
fucking RC guys are nutters

>>2758866
attach ankle weights to a bike helmet.

>>2758936
can you not already? I mean there are a lot of different desert but until you're into like a foot+ of soft sand you don't even need 4x4. that looks like hard packed and shouldn't be a problem. even so your #1 defense against getting stuck is to air down your tires, and I mean to like 10psi. You can literally walk over deep sand or snow with super low pressure. Carry a real air compressor so you can drive safely after (low pressure doesn't damage tires, heat does and low pressure + speed = heat). Those sand ladders you see all the mall overlanders with are absolute garbage too, don't bother.

Ideally, don't fuck with the ground. You won't be able to put it back more solid than it is. I'd need to know the desert and or see pics from ground level.

>>2758944
Elenco EP-130

>>2759169
harbor freight. I used it for 15 years on offroad vehicle maintenance and repair. There is no reason to get le expensive air chisel when all it does is bang.

>>2759216
make fren with the local meth heads, they'll have lots of scrap for cheap.

also stay away from brass, it's toxic when smelted

>>2759297
my high end insurance only guys who have done two of my roofs fucked up the second one. out of state roofers are a big problem here, they come for the hail money and are gone before inspection/never around for issues. he's definitely skimping on labor, but even if you pick the materials he could easily short you by not doubling shingles in places or skipping most of the nails. you're going to get the bare minimum to make it look covered and that's it. not pulling a permit could save the guy a few grand, and that's on you when it wasn't permitted. you definitely won't be able to talk to the roofers, even mexicans don't do that shit anymore, the last guys on my roof didn't even speak spanish. pick a local company and pay the extra $6k for a 20k roof.

>>2759467
angle grinder is going to melt the metal away, more or less. if it's thin it will catch and maybe bend. nibbler is just tin snips powered by air or electricity. it's way nicer and easier to get a curved edge with some practice. you might be able to rent one at a hardware store.

for sockets just buy them in a plastic vacuum briefcase style like this, just try to keep the extras to a minimum (you dont' need allen keys and plyers and shit in there but a set of box wrenches is a plus) and it will meet your needs for many years. sleeves and rails are for after you have a $10,000 rolling tool chest. again harbor freight rachets and sockets are fine, I generally used them as car kits, and had craftsman at home but you're not rebuilding engines all day after all, you're changing your oil every 5 months. you don't need a $150 14mm specialty tool.

>>2759516
all those air tools have something in common that steam just won't and that's volume. even if you get it to turn the amount of input just isn't going to help you with the immense quantity you need to output to run one of those for more than a few seconds. there are plenty of steam engine designs you can use, there is even a youtube of a dude riding a steam powered bike. using an air tool for output is beyond retarded.

>>2759555
halloween decorations or tabletop gaming landscape and accessories (buildings, walls, very small stones). there are markets for both.

Recently a piece of a glue stick ended up in the tumble dryer put of pure stupidity and it's covered the inner part of the see through window.

Acetone does remove the EVA plastic the glue stick is made of, HOWEVER, the window is also a type of plastic and I have no idea how to find out what type of plastic it is.

The tumble dryer model is a Samsung DV90t5240AN/FA. I have done several searches online but I'm unable to figure out what type of plastic it is.

If anyone has any idea how to proceed I will be extremely grateful

>>2759862
>glue stick

If it's hot-melt glue, isopropyl alcohol will remove it and is probably not aggressive enough to attack the window.

>>2759871

Thanks, just a thought, would homemade methanol and ethanol be a safe bet. Considering it's the ethanol from sub 82 degrees in the distillation process? And the methanol from 65-78 degrees. We do have a lot of the stuff and it would save time to just grab what we have in the garage instead of going to the store. Or would should I just play it safe and go get packaged Isopropyl alcohol that's got a gaurunteed proof level

>>2759516
Might work if your power requirement is low enough. Do some math looking at the mechanical power output of that on regular ~100psi air, compared to the power you'd like to be pumping into the batteries. You'll also need to match the pneumatic tool with a motor that outputs a sensible voltage when at the speed at which the turbine would spin.
I'd consider a truck turbo if you need something significantly more powerful, they're cheapish and seem to last in more extreme environments.

I think in general, a turbine will be more reliable and easier to bodge together compared to a piston engine, if less efficient.

>>2759878
Alcohol isn't going to dissolve any common clear plastic, it should be fine. Even acetone only dissolves a few types.

>>2759844
What if I line the team up before hand, make sure that they understand explicit instructions like 6 nails per shingle, don't fuck up aim on nailing strips, read and explain installation instructions from the manufacturer, then tell them I'll be watching with a drone? Then just hover my drone up there. Whether I'm actually watching or not they'll think I will be, no?

>>2759862
try a vegetable oil. oil is a mild solvent and works wonders on glue residue

>>2759848
It’s more than I’m trying to minimize the space my tools take up. So getting two of those little makita rubber socket rails sounded really nice, they could fit right in a tool duffle bag no problem, while that ratchet case is big and heavy. Next year I might be living in a studio apt so I want to keep things compact and minimal.

>>2759878
>Or would should I just play it safe and go get packaged Isopropyl alcohol that's got a gaurunteed proof level

>>2759905
>try a vegetable oil.

https://youtu.be/z4vPAlHqnQU

started having breathing issues after moving into a new apartment. I was able to run 5 miles easily and now struggle to do even 1. My symptoms also go away when I'm gone for an extended period of time. Is there a way to test for mold? The owner is a slumlord and I wouldn't put it past her to hide it.

>>2760027
anon specified the window is plastic
if its made from pmma there is a greater than 50% chance it will violently crack the second you touch it with rubbing alcohol
that "advice" of yours is malicious

>>2760035
Google mold test kits. You set a sterile thing on a little stand for a set amount of time and then send it to a lab.

You can't really diy it unless you're a microbiologist and then you'd still want the lab report so you can an wave it around at court

>>2758095
You ever look into the milwaukee m12 soldering iron? I have one and use it for small projects and cramped places doing automotive/equipment wiring where I don't want to burn surrounding things with my butane torch when soldering.

>>2760058
If it is there's no way to remove the glue stick anyway because it would have welded itself to the window because of their similar chemistry.

Is it EVA (hot glue stick) or PVA (children's glue stick)? Both you're probably fucked if it's pmma. Alcoh9l is a good solvent for either. If it's a good solvent for them, then it's a good solvent for your pmma window.

If the window and glue are so similar, you're fucked. Get a couple scratch pads on a drill and get ready for elbow grease>>2760079

Not really a question aside from maybe "do you see anything wrong here". Never built a shed before, only watched youtube in preparation.

I mostly just wanted to share some >progress that i thought was cool.
Basic shed design in fusion 360 with focus on making things adjustable with parameters: total w/d/h, door w/d/h, door bias towards left or right (or square in the middle), board dimensions (2x4 in picture), spacing of studs...

Only need to add a sloped roof now.

Electrical service/telecom entry point. Apparently some retard cut a massive hole next to the conduit and mice have infiltrated the entire basement.

What product do I use to fill this up permanently? I've never done through-holes so I don't know anything about sealants.

>>2760098
example of changing a few parameters

>>2760094
thats why i said veg oil, oil is a mild solvent but makes it possible to rub off the schmear instead of spreading
pva is warm water soluble

>>2760116
Oil is not a solvent for alcohol based shit.

Different chemicals are solvents for different chemicals. Neither oil nor alcohol isn't a solvent for everything

>>2760121
i meant it wont dissolve the plastic much but what it does is act as release agent, preventing the shit from spreading when you wipe it off (the action of transfering it to a towel/tissue) . Also awesome for sticker residue
Just try it instead of playing the smartass,

>>2760099
Use snips to cut a U on a thin sheet of aluminum flashing that's large enough to cover the opening and have enough overlap to allow screws to secure it to the wood.

The U goes down and around the conduit.

Use zip screws to attach the sheet metal to the wood.

If you don't have flashing just use a baking pan or sheet or old license plate or whatever...

>>2760167
>poorly worded

Get a piece of thin metal large enough to overlap the cutout by a couple of inches.
Cut a U on the bottom to go around the conduit with a close fit.
Attach with short screws.

>>2760099
steel wool and spray foam
I usually toss some hot pepper powder in spots too, but the chipmunks have gotten smart to that

>>2760099
Other answer isn't bad.

You might also do some steel wool filler and then spray fireproof foam on it

I'm building a barrier surrounding my outdoor stove. What material is cheap, fire resistant, and water proof? I just need it to block the wind.

>>2760456
Metal.

>>2760098
How do you figure lapping of plates with shed dimensions greater than e.g. 16' ? Or specifying maximum lumber length available. Also, add a toggle for blocking (purely a visual enhancement).

How do you handle gable walls? Lean-to? Saltbox?

>>2760456
OSB is fire resistant

>>2760456
rock

>>2760456
just pile up mounds of dirt around your stove, dirt is free and extremely fire proof.

>>2760462
I'm making this just for myself, I plan on building 2 sheds and that's about it, and they'll both use the same design, one will just have the roof sloping the other way. This one has 4m (~13') sides, doubt I'll go over 5m (~16') for either of them.
There are about 25 parameters to adjust which make it easy to change my mind on anything from how large I want it to be, the lumber I'm working with, the slope of the roof, the door...

>>2760172
This is a good idea. But it's in a really stupid inaccessible place. I took the original photo by sticking my phone up into the joist bay. It's actually behind a door frame and there's a toilet drain pipe in front of it.

Going from the outside, the hole is behind a piece of vinyl siding that has the electrical service, a dryer vent, a fiber optic cable, and a water spigot going through it. So I'd have to remove that bit of siding and then somehow replace it while preserving all the shit that's drilled through it. It's kind of a shit show.

How the hell do I hold a tig torch that has a thumb switch when welding a pipe in 5g position? Any youtube video I watch they brace with their fingers and hold the torch by it's neck but the ones we're using aren't flex heads and you're supposed to hold the handle like a hammer. The angle makes it impossible to freehand under a pipe or pretty much anything unless your elbow is on the table. Can't rest fingers on the workpiece because of the ergonomics

>>2760620
Outside view.

Tell me, if I wanted to reinstall the siding here without disconnecting all this shit, is there any reason I can't:
>get a new piece of siding and cut it up into a smaller width(s)
>notch out holes for the pipes/wires to go through (like the pic)
>slide the notched piece into place around the fixtures
>fill remaining gaps or seams with sealant

Have to wait until it's warmer obviously, but would it work?

>>2760630
I fucking hate how many techs are too dumb to use the fucking existing cable entrances

>>2760630
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GREAT-STUFF-12-oz-Gaps-and-Cracks-Insulating-Spray-Foam-Sealant-227112/202893728

>>2760641
Sometimes there's codes against doing that.

>>2760620
>But it's in a really stupid inaccessible place.

Then this v
>>2760176

>>2760630
>is there any reason I can't:

It would be extremely painful.
For you...

>>2760648
There isn't
It's a pissing contest with the other utility companies in the area

So addressable LED strips are pretty cool, but in order to actually 'address' them you need to have them all in some sort of series.

Are there any small ICs or chips that allow you to address them in parallel to get a sort of Y-split further down without running a second set of wires to your main MCU?

>>2756610
New furnaces shut the gas off when off so you can leave the in line valve on
If you're talking about the valve in the furnace, it's called a wifi thermostat

>>2760630
I would add flashing tape/liquid around the holes (I assume this was never done anyway) below the siding and then I would also flash the whole area so that your technically insufficient siding overlaps won't leak

>>2760576
You should never ever have a break in a support wall
Make the tall wall solid stud all the way up and down or it'll buckle outwards over time

You'll also save yourself time by doing it properly

>>2760656
>t in order to actually 'address' them you need to have them all in some sort of series.

You are correct sir. In order to actually "address" them you have to connect them so that they are actually "addressable". Imagine that.

>>2759297
The materials to redo your roof cost $3-4k
Roofing is the biggest fucking racket on earth

Some retard got $12k out my insurance company installing <$2k worth of shingles

I'm saying he might be legit and he knows you're paying out of pocket so no he gave you a real quote and not a trumped up insurance quote

>>2759097
Just use a powered miter saw lmao

>>2759066
If you love near a Menards, you can literally just cut it on the saw in the yard

Or ask your neighbors or ask a friend or buy it at Lowe's or home Depot and have them cut it

>>2760670
Okay. So do you know of a solution or do you just want attention acting like an ass?

>>2760653
I want to do better than that, which I probably can't do a good job of from the inside because of where it is. Frankly, I suspect that the water spigot and anything else that goes through the wall is also installed just as poorly with no sealing whatsoever, so I want to fix all of them at once properly.

What is extremely painful about my proposed method? What's a better approach?

>>2760664
What insufficient overlaps are you referring to? I'm new to this.

>>2760689
>What is extremely painful about my proposed method?

It is doable but...
It will be A PAIN IN THE ASS.

>>2760641
It's not too bad right here. The electrical on the left and the flexible conduit going into the ground next to it is for an outbuilding. I do not know why there is a cable tied to the spigot (could be pots grounding). The telecom and electrical in the middle enter the wall in that one place.

>>2760691
So be it, I guess. I don't really have a choice if I have to fix the framing from the outside.

>>2758772
>What exactly do you want to know?
I want to differentiate betwee two or metals based on their emissions. I was hoping to two metals (or three or more) emit different frequencies so that I can pick a specific frequency to "see" only the one metal I am interested in. Yes, I understand the emssions will be IR or far IR, but I would like to know what frequency, or range, so that I can select the right sensor. I am late responding because I am an idiot and I forgot if posted this question in diy, or sci and have been looking to find it.

I had already found the table in your previous response "emissivity-coefficients" and the material and I am interested in is listed, but I was not sure/clear abou the relationship between e and frequency.

>>2758769
I want to know the frequency of the IR being emitted by the meta at 300k, not what the emissivity of the metal is, so I can select the right sensor or sensors to ID the metal. That info I am having trouble finding

>>2760721
https://phys.libretexts.org/Bookshelves/University_Physics/University_Physics_(OpenStax)/University_Physics_III_-_Optics_and_Modern_Physics_(OpenStax)/06%3A_Photons_and_Matter_Waves/6.02%3A_Blackbody_Radiation
It does not sound like the blackbody radiation wavelength varies with material.
What you may be interested in is spectrometry.

Replaced my buddy's pool pump and motor, it started the first time fine, now it'll sometimes spark at the connectors and pop the breakers. Any ideas why and how to prevent it?

It's a Hayward Super 2 and the arcing seems to be between B and L2. Sometimes it will turn on fine but the next day I come home to popped breakers

>>2760735
And yeah, I wrapped the wire around the screw cuz I initially suspected poor crimping on the blade terminals. Lmk if you think going back to blade terminals and soldering them would fix the issue

>>2760741
You really need to redo those things properly.

Turn off the breaker, remove the wires, clean everything carefully, and then re-crimp the wires with the proper connectors.

>>2760777
Yeah you're probably right. There's such a large rush of current at the start that contact area is important. Plus, sometimes it'll run for 2 seconds then pop, which I'm now assuming may be due to vibrations fucking with the wiring connections like potentially loosening them enough to pop

>>2760461
not enough when it's windy

>>2760463
>>2760497
termite people

>>2760467
I thought about concret blocks, but then I'll have to spend almost $100

>>2760741
>And yeah, I wrapped the wire around the screw
the wrong direction

PLUS: the wire should be behind the head of the screw all-the-way-around, not just half of it.

I am making a room in my basement that is heavily inspired by the House on the Rock

One feature found in the House is fireplaces that are essentially large slabs of limestone and holes in the ceiling for the smoke to go out. Logs were simply thrown on the slab and lit on fire. Is there any way to do something like this in a residential setting that won't burn my house down?

Another feature is walls made of stacked limestone blocks. Are there any special considerations to take if I want to copy that - can I just throw limestone retaining wall blocks down on the basement floor and start stacking them? If I made an entire wall of them, how do I keep from from falling over?

/SQTDDTOT/ Stupid Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread.

This thread has passed the bump limit.

A new thread has been posted here: >>2761047

It's time to transition to the new thread.

>>2760735
Doesn't look like that spade terminal is doing anything in this installation, so why not just insulate it?

>>2760856
This, your wiring is a mess, maybe not causing any problems now, but you should aim for
- no insulation under the screw
- no uninsulated wire not under the screw
- wire around all the screw
- wire going clockwise so tightening the screw grabs the wire instead of ejecting it

>>2760178
>>2760176
Steel wool and filler is also fantastic, particularly a heavier gauge of steel wool. If you think you'll be servicing the gap at any time, use spray foam, if you anticipate never needing to remove it and just want a completely rodent-proof barrier, use filler.

>>2761132
What is filler? I thought steel wool was filler.

>>2761139
>What is filler?
canned foam, plaster, wood putty, whatever you want to embed the steel wool in.
>>2761132
>particularly a heavier gauge of steel wool
best is stainless steel (or copper) pot and pan scrubber

>>2761132
>>2761139
>>2761146

>>2761146
>best is stainless steel (or copper) pot and pan scrubber
Absolutely agree. Never seen a rodent get through that.
>>2761139
>What is filler
In this case plasticised plaster. It sets harder than plain plaster, and it adheres to the gap and the steel wires. You end up with an impenetrable mass that makes sharp edges that hurt the mice if they do try to chew through it.

>>2761149
Not those bois though. You want the rough wirey ones. Unroll it a little bit and you'll find a wire holding it together, cut/snap that and it'll unroll all the way into a metal tube you can bundle up into the gap.

>https://www.upload.sorotec.de/doku/manuals/Infoblatt_Spannmuttern.pdf
What does this mean? I have an clamping nut with a 3018 cnc and it is clearly not symmetrical on the inside. Is this a production error, or is it supposed to be like this?

>>2756561
Anyone have experience using a rotary tool for polishing and carving agates? Any tips would be really appreciated

>>2762097
>/SQTDDTOT/ Stupid Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread.
>This thread has passed the bump limit.
>A new thread has been posted here: >>2761047
>It's time to transition to the new thread.

dropped some blue loctite on my pants; how do I clean it, bros?

>>2763488
acetone

>>2763622
won't it bleach the fabric?