/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2746396
whats trending now as far as models to print for sale?

>>2746405
Garbage, the answer has always been garbage. Stupid useless trash, knick-knacks, junk, anything you'd see for $1 at a souvenir or gag-gift shop. Look at what sells well on Etsy. Rocktopus, articulated slug, articulated dragon, articulated axolotl, personalized nametag keychains, unpainted Pokemon minifigs... Be one of the 60 people selling Rocktpus prints.

>>2746396
Posted this in the last thread but what happened here? It finished fine except for this part. Is it a filament issue?

>>2746408
listen to this anon, sometimes we get lost in designing useful stuff that nobody is really going to buy, when what most people want is pretty much
>Stupid useless trash
in my case I've seen people making bank out of customized photo lamps, multicolor prints, phone cases with somebody's name on them

>>2746415
I make custom car parts for people, commission, every piece of one-of-a-kind and my work has graced a good handful of SEMA builds.
I make more money from printing Pokemon figurines and cutting vinyl Pokemon stickers.

>>2746414
Looks like either improper support, or bad layer adhesion (either two low of heat or again improperly supported).
Could also be some other issue, but those are the two easiest to fix.

>>2746405
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1549431

>>2746405
Whatever you are contracted to design and print.
If you're making bespoke objects, 3D printing has a purpose as a manufacturing method. If you want to pump out copies of a generic object, then you're a fucking idiot who should have brought a desktop injection moulder but were too incompetent to conduct basic research.

>>2746423
Also, if your commissions "arem't making as much as shitty figurines" then your commission rates were too low.

>>2746423
>desktop injection moulder
Good luck with your 1 cubic inch, lel. 3dp is still pretty good for small batches (<20 or so) imo.

Jesus, these 5160s are massive. I thought the heatsinks were the same size as the 2209s or a bit bigger, but damn.

>>2746396
>FullControl
Does anybody besides the authors use this? I have an overhang supported by a nut, but Cura's path over the overhang starts very close to the edge, and it goes straight across instead of an arc.

How do I get $1000 in month without getting a job so I can buy a 3d printer that isn't trash?

>>2746396
>in the OP 8 times
whew

>>2746492
>not using tmc4671s
almost as if you don't want to upgrade to brushless servos in the future

>>2746659
learn blender and make 3d models for v-tubers and sexual deviants

>>2746683
Wish I had the money and smarts to make a 1000w brushless servo printer, but I'll stick with my wannabe-voron Ender trashfire

>accidentally ordered 7-pin JSTs instead of 6-pin
fug

>>2746415
>>2746417
>>2746423
>>2746683
how do I into money with zero effort pls give me the secret sauzule

>order bambu labs p1s
>it gets delivered to the front door
>immediately gets stolen
I dont suppose they'll send me a replacement?

>>2746701
maybe they'll learn to use it
>kek

>>2746699
Effort is the one thing that doesn't take any capital, and hence the one thing that can put you ahead of people with more money than you. If you don't want to put any in then maybe welfare is more your speed.

Well, talent also doesn't take any capital, but chances are you got the short straw on that one if you're asking on 4chins for get rich quick schemes.

>>2746701
>F
Damn, that sucks.

>>2746701
but I thought xi jinping could personally track and view every bambu printer around the world in real time, making tracking a stolen one childs play?

>>2746708
na

>>2746704
For some reason i dont think they will learn to use it
>>2746711
Yeah, i think bambu labs support will send a reply tomorrow so lets see how that goes.
>>2746719
Xi, is only intrested in the 3d printed butt plugs

>been using Cura since 2017 when I got my a8
>try Prusaslicer for the first time today
>printer motors are less noisy and roughly 10% faster
Thanks beardman, but quit slapping your fugly mug on everything.

>>2746683
>>2746692
Considering the diminishing returns we're seeing on the HS3, i don't really see the point of servos in desktop printers anyway.

>>2746722
Hope it works out, anon.

>>2746725
What advantages are there with servos instead of regular steppers?

>>2746727
https://youtu.be/ksZEaQ7y_Tg

>>2746729
Wow, that's nuts. You'd need a crazy hotend to keep up.

>>2746724
Shoulda skipped it and gone straight to orca.

>>2746725
My thinking was mainly in making a lighter-weight motor for the extruder. Steppers don't have good power to weight compared to BLDCs, though they're decent in terms of torque so you may need a more extreme gear reduction for a brushless servo extruder.

Also enclosure temps might kill your N52s.

>>2746735
What's better in Orca? I'll definitely give it a try.

>>2746423
How can you make a desktop injection molder using a 3D printer? How do you make easy switch in molds & configurable injectors?

>>2746699
Collect cans.
Shovel snow.
Suck dick.

>>2746741
unironically when I was a kid I knocked on every door in the biggest neighborhood in my town and asked to shovel snow and NOBODY said ok

>>2746747
Shovel my car out and I will give you $5 and make you a strong drink.

>>2746747
Apply for some diversity fund and pretend to educate yourself. Being black is easy mode nowadays.

>>2746735
So basically a stratasys extruder. We're going full circle here.

>>2746747
tsk tsk, handshake wasn't firm enough

>>2746740
Print them: https://hackaday.com/2021/07/20/injection-molds-from-your-3d-printer/

>>2746740
>How can you make a desktop injection molder using a 3D printer?
Get an injection unit and build a clamp around it. Unless you're having a lucky find on craigs or ebay, it's basically impossible to get into it without fairly high upfront costs.
Dunno if it was hackady or reddit, but there was some guy using 3d printer parts with a super volcano and he couldn't even get it to reliably make keycaps without filament early cooling issues.

>>2746405
Lithophane nightlights tend to always get people excited, in my experience.

What lubricants work well for PLA prints with moving parts? Can I just use WD-40?

>>2746396
Creality Ender-3 V3 SE or Bambu Lab A1 mini for first 3d printer? what would be better?

>>2746805
A1 by a far mile. Bambu isn't the best if you're into open source and tinkering on the machine itself, but there's no way a sane person can recommend an Ender in current year anymore.

>>2746815
What's wrong with them?
I still use an Ender 3.

>>2746823
Try harder.

>>2746828
I don't know what you mean.

>>2746815
if you care most about tinkering and learning and open sores and don't mind doing troubleshooting and upgrades, get the ender. if you want easy multi material, the extent you care about upgrades is build plates that make pretty patterns on the bottom side, and want it to generally just werk™, get the a1.

>try to modify klipper install to make use of RPi GPIO
>there's a guide in their documentation for doing this
>literally the second command in the guide throws an error
>after hours of digging in their discord it turns out you need to download a script and place it in a specific folder
It turns out the documentation does mention this, but in the most passing, hands off way possible.
>After installing Klipper, install the script. run:
So from those 3 words "install the script" I was supposed to figure out there was something to install before running the commands, know what I had to install and where to get it. This documentation is written by actual downies.
Fuck Klipper.

>>2746838
will ender have comparable print quality to a1 mini without much upgrading?

>>2746855
lol no

>>2746852
Klipper is great. Sorry about your reading comprehension bud.

>>2746855
>without much upgrading?
Yes. It will require a shitload of tuning but yes.

what's the deal with deltas anyway

What about spokes instead of solid brims? So far it's holding.

>>2746701
america lol

why didn't you pay the six gorillion extra to have amazon's corporate army goons protect it with slingshots for 30 seconds after delivery

>>2746891
those are way too thin.
You want the spokes as short and wide as possible. See infographic

Is the first layer supposed to come out like a thick white line or a spreadout transparent line?

>>2746905
If I had been a brim it would have been slightly easier to trim.

>>2746876
tuning as in leveling etc? printing speeds, temps?
I'm absolutely new to this stuff

>>2746965
Look, the reason 3d printing only took off in the last 10 years is because of the sheer number of variables that need to be exact in order to print a part successfully.
You need to tune the following on any printer immediately after purchase:
- Nozzle temperature
- Bed temperature
- Nozzle Z offset
- Bed level/bed mesh
- extrusion multiplier
- part scale ( use a calibration cube for this )
- part cooling ( defaults are acceptable )

Further maintenance required:
- Clean the build surface
- Replace filament ( obvious )
- Oil the linear rails occasionally
- replace nozzle ( rare unless using wrong nozzle )

When printing, depending on what you're doing with the part you will need to change the following:
- Wall/perimeter count ( 3 is standard, 6 for heat inserts )
- Infill percentage ( rare to change this )
- Supports ( use of supports is rare for properly designed parts )
- Brim ( make your own brims )
- Seam ( causes fitment issues in most prints )

All settings listed above are the bare minimum settings you need to correctly set for a print of any decent quality. There are in excess of 400 settings in superslicer and while you don't need to ever change most of them, they do need to be the correct value or your print will fail.

>>2746891
y tho. looks like a brim with extra steps and far less holding power to show for it.

>>2746990
easier to remove
The one this guy made is shit. I hope he will learn and improve.

>>2746990
>>2746993
Idk whenever I use brim I set 0.1mm distance from the print and it comes off with no effort.

>>2746792
I'd use lithium or silicone grease. Maybe something like sewing machine oil, but nothing as thin as WD40.

>>2746927
Depends, how much zinc is in your diet?

>>2746990
When the big ring shrinks there's a bending moment that lifted a standard external brim off. Internal spokes didn't have that problem.
I also gave the bed an extra minute to heat up after reaching the setpoint. Maybe that's what actually fixed the adhesion.

My curtain holder broke off...

>>2747027
...so I just ran a few through the printer and let it print while I worked from my home office. Fuck me, the chineses are scum but cr*ality printers are useful now and then.

>>2746965
Oh, there's a ton. Here's a qrd.
Printer config stuff - hardware and software stuff you might want to do when you get the machine. mostly one time stuff
>squaring
>belt tension
>driver current
>extruder E steps
>linear advance (easy: one and done for the most used nozzle and material, hard: do it for each nozzle size, god tier: do it for each filament x nozzle combo)
>input shaper

Slicer settings - unlike the printer stuff these WILL vary from one material to another and one nozzle to another
>temperature
>speed
>flow%
>part cooling
>minimum layer time
>bridging settings
>skirts/brims

Part specific settings - stuff that you might change depending on what's being printed
>wall thickness
>top/bottom thickness
>infill%
>supports
>rafts

And there's a lot more but I can't be bothered to list them all.

>>2747032
>one time
>belt tension
Hope you bought a Prusa
t. BAnon, cr*lity ender 3v1 owned

And no, that wasn't a typo

>>2746701
>>order bambu labs p1s
>>it gets delivered to the front door
>>immediately gets stolen
The porch inspector did you a favour. Get an Ender if you want to save money, get a Prusa if you want anything better. Anything in the middle will be both expensive and crap.
>I dont suppose they'll send me a replacement?
Why on God's sweet sweet Earth would you want that?

>>2747034
Unless you fuck with it, yes, one time. That being said mine gets belt retensioning at least once a year because I always find something to modify that requires removing the belts.
t. owner of THE OVEN, where I bake my E3Pro in 65C+ temperatures for hours on end

sonic pad edge mount i put together in tinkercad, there where no mounts online that was at a tables edge i could find

>>2747038

>>2747037
Allow me to doubt. You may have been lucky, if you didn't change the belts.
>THE OVEN, where I bake my E3Pro in 65C+ temperatures for hours on end
Do tell! Is it enclosed? If so, did you build an enclosure or buy a kit? I'm considering enclosing my E3v1 with a Lack and acrylic, for sound, ventilation, and finally being able to print ABS. Yes, I already changed the hotend.

>>2747002
you have a very poorly calibrated first layer. That's like elephants foot galore.
pathetic

>>2747040
>if you didn't change the belts
I changed the Y axis belt because I went for a 65mm stepper that required a longer bracket. Pretty sure it's equally chinkshit if not worse. X axis is still the original belt.
>Is it enclosed?
Well, yes, obviously, otherwise I couldn't keep such high temperatures inside.
>did you build an enclosure
2 lack tables on top of each other, fill the sides with extruded styrofoam panels and you have a perfect place for printing ABS. All naturally heated by the bed, no need for additional heaters.
>acrylic
Might as well save that money and use cardboard instead. Those thin acrylic panels don't do well at holding the heat in. This is why even people with vorons and other enclosed printers say ABS warps, it just doesn't get hot enough inside.

>>2747052
I see. Is that modeling board? Do you have a camera or anything to monitor the printing? Any dedicated way to monitor and control the temperature or do you just let it bake by itself to whatever temperature Xi Jinpooh dictates through Creality's firmware?

>>2747052
>>2747053 follow-up
Would 5mm PVC foamboard hold up? I would rather not have a fire hazard

>>2746855
if you printed at the slowest speed i guess

>>2747053
>Is that modeling board
No, it's extruded polystyrene. The stuff used to insulate houses.
>Do you have a camera or anything to monitor the printing?
No, I don't really need to monitor. It's reliable enough that I can start a print remotely and trust to come back to a finished part.
>Any dedicated way to monitor temperature
I could hook up some temp sensor to the Pi, but I don't really see the point.
>control the temperature or do you just let it bake by itself
Thermal equilibrium basically. Even through the insulation some heat is lost and the heat given off by the bed decreases as the inside temperature rises. From my testing 65C seems to be said equilibrium at my ABS printing temps.
>Creality's firmware
Was used for approximately 0 days. I flashed a proper marlin build ASAP. Currently it's running klipper.

>>2747058
Dunno dude, I only tested these 2cm panels vs my old solution of a cardboard box on top. This is clearly better.
Only thing I can tell you is that the side panels will dictate the maximum temperature you can get inside.

>>2747052
is that a lack table? my ikea never has stock of anything I want from them

>>2747063
I see, thanks for the info. I will look into making a case. Ikea has yet to return to Argentina so I'll have to make do.
>firmware
I am behind in my homework. I should flash it soon, I have the cables and everything. Maybe I am waiting for when I upgrade the mainboard, who knows. Definitively not me.
>>2747068
>is that a lack table?
The very same comment you are responding says it is, indeed, two tables on top of each other, the lower one presumably feet up.

>>2747030
nice. good job on making it chunky.

>>2747035
I would be open to getting a prusa, after having the printer stolen. However, i doubt bambu labs will just let me cancel the printer order. That would look extremely suspicious imo. If they did offer a a complete refund i would probably take it because i can already tell bambu labs support team takes way too long to reply.

>>2747084
Thanks. The same had happened before so I already had the model at hand. On designing them, I evaluated making them with a circular base but in order to print the layers parallel normal to the shear plane it had to print on supports and it looked like a conical turd. In comparison with the chink metal predecessors, it is indeed sturdier.
https://youtu.be/zDnPFxnALBg
There's one last curtain that I should fix too before it fails now that I think about it. There's a middle holder that I could (should?) make open. In the meantime, find listed (in the following post) the OpenSCAD file for the holders (a bit further tweaked for more bestagonality) and some endcaps that I ended up not using. You can configure the nagonality with BASE_NAGON. It may be a bit wonky with lower oddagons but any evenagon SHOULD work. If you prefer a circular look, use a hekatoogdoekontagon (BASE_NAGON=180) or so and let ARC welding do its work.

>>2747109

$fn=60;
m=.1;

BASE_DIAMETER = 34;
BASE_CORNER_R = 15;
BASE_THICKNESS = 3;
ROD_CENTER_Z = 50;
ROD_DIAMETER = 21;
HOLDER_DIAMETER = ROD_DIAMETER + 6;
HOLDER_WIDTH = 10;
SCREW_SEPARATION = 20;
GRUBSCREW_D = 3;
WALLSCREW_SHAFT_D = 5;
WALLSCREW_HEAD_D = 12;
BASE_NAGON=6;
module nagon(n,d) {
circle(d=d/cos((360/n)/2),$fn=n);
}
module nagonal_prism(n,d,h) {
linear_extrude(h) nagon(n,d);
}
module base() {
rotate((360/BASE_NAGON)/2) nagonal_prism(d=BASE_DIAMETER, h=m,n=BASE_NAGON);
}

module holder() {
difference() {
intersection() {
// XZ silhouette
hull() {
translate([0,0,ROD_CENTER_Z]) cube([HOLDER_WIDTH,BASE_DIAMETER,HOLDER_DIAMETER], center=true);
base();
}
// YZ silhouette
hull() {
translate([0,0,ROD_CENTER_Z]) rotate([0,90]) cylinder(h=BASE_DIAMETER, d=HOLDER_DIAMETER, center=true);
base();
}
}
//screw holes
for(i=[-1,1]) translate([i*SCREW_SEPARATION/2,0]) {
//shaft
translate([0,0,-m]) linear_extrude(BASE_THICKNESS+2*m) circle(d=WALLSCREW_SHAFT_D);
// head
rotate(180/BASE_NAGON) translate([0,0,BASE_THICKNESS]) nagonal_prism(BASE_NAGON,h=ROD_CENTER_Z, d=WALLSCREW_HEAD_D);
// side
hull() {
for(z=[WALLSCREW_HEAD_D/2+BASE_THICKNESS,ROD_CENTER_Z]) {
// Fix for oddagons
translate([0,0,z])rotate([0,90*i]) rotate(180*(1+1/BASE_NAGON)) nagonal_prism(n=BASE_NAGON,h=1.5*(BASE_DIAMETER-SCREW_SEPARATION)/2, d=WALLSCREW_HEAD_D);
}
}
}
translate([0,0,ROD_CENTER_Z]) rotate([0,90]) {
// holder
cylinder(d=ROD_DIAMETER, h=BASE_DIAMETER, center=true);
// grubscrew hole
rotate([0,-90,45]) cylinder(d=GRUBSCREW_D, h=HOLDER_DIAMETER+m);
}
}
}


>>2746701
What the fuck kind of 3rd world shithole are you living in that your delivery gets stolen immediately?
And what kind of retard are you to just leave your shit outside unattended?

>>2747110
Fuck me, fuck the formatter, and fuck Hiroshimoot.
Anyway, the cap and an ensemble. Rotate in the slicer so it's long diagonal side down.

module cap() {
rotate(90) difference() {
hull() {
nagonal_prism(BASE_NAGON,ROD_DIAMETER + 2, m);
translate([0,0,20])
nagonal_prism(BASE_NAGON,ROD_DIAMETER + 4, m);
translate([0,0,32])
nagonal_prism(BASE_NAGON,ROD_DIAMETER - 2, m);
}
translate([0,0,-m])
cylinder(d=ROD_DIAMETER, h=20+m);
translate([0,0,20-m])
cylinder(d1=ROD_DIAMETER, d2=0, h=10+m);
}
}

translate([-60,0]) cap();
translate([-20,0]) holder();
translate([20,0]) holder();
translate([60,0]) cap();

>>2747111
>What the fuck kind of 3rd world shithole are you living in that your delivery gets stolen immediately?
America, in an apartment complex. I do want to get away from this place soon. Hopefully my job lets me work fully remote next year and i can get wway from the city.
>And what kind of retard are you to just leave your shit outside unattended?
It was left outside for a total of 15 mins. As soon as i saw the email that it was delivered i checked and it was gone. The delivery company had a photo of it next to my door.

Lads, sanding PLA is pure hell, now onto building an enclosure for my ender 5+

>>2746396
Also I just realized my trusdx case made it to the OP :3

>>2747158
>sanding PLA
you're supposed to use one of those mini hand-planes, or body filler + paint

>>2747052
>This is why even people with vorons and other enclosed printers say ABS warps, it just doesn't get hot enough inside

My voron trident stays at 65C during prints, I had 2-3 warps out of 1k hours. Properly cleaning the pei sheet with dish soap and warm water fixed that.

Also don't be quick to assume those are competent voron owners. I bet they didn't add foam strips around the edges of the panels, and complain about warpage. My v0 warped all the time because I didn't add foam strips on my panels. Lesson learned.

changed from a brass nozzle to a steel nozzle and had to increase temperature 30C to get the damned thing to print. any idea why?

>>2747280
>brass: 150w/mk
>steel: 80w/mk
truly a mystery

Do you guys buy mods to fix specific issues you have, or do you just buy shit you hear about that sounds cool

>>2747298
Mostly to fix an issue, of it seems like it'll fix it.

>>2747298
Usually it's for fixing issues but every now and then I buy something to extend the functionality of the machine. I bought an ERCF kit on ali last week because I want to do repeating prints without much monitoring.

I ended up buying a k1 I feel terrible now but I'm sure I'll forget about it...

>>2747209
>My voron trident stays at 65C during prints
Do these printers have a thermistor that measures the enclosure temperature somewhere?

>>2747298
Fixing issues I have, issues I think I have, or issues I think I will have.

>>2747316
I hope it doesn't get stolen off your porch.

>>2747319
Oh no I got the $15 insurance now. I'm no dummy.

>>2747298
Stuff that looks cool but I justify it by telling myself it'll improve quality/performance

>>2747052
but you can't see inside

>>2746701
funniest shit I read all day
>>2747035
good bait
>>2747319
It's in the Firmware for Klipper and Marlin. But a voron only has what you put there yourself anon

>>2747209
>My voron trident stays at 65C during prints
If you opted for the mains powered bed then yes, it's quite easy to get things hot even with acrylic panes. With 24V bed? Not so easy.

>>2747336
Yes, and? It's a 3D printer, not a lazy mexican. I don't have to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't slack off.

>>2747339
Schroedingers 10h print

>>2747340
I did even 30h prints just fine.
I don't understand how you cunts live like this, scared to death by any print longer than 3 or 4 hours. Do half of your prints just fail or what?
I have an Ender 3, the cheap chinkshit that everyone here shits on. I should be the one to have prints fail on me and yet they don't.
How do you fuck up this badly?

>>2747339
>If you opted for the mains powered bed then yes, it's quite easy to get things hot even with acrylic panes. With 24V bed? Not so easy.

You caught me, I have my bed powered by mains.

>>2747347
>Works on my machine

>>2747436
Well, yes, but I genuinely want to understand why so many people here are afraid of leaving their printers unattended while I'm not. I thought a lot people here have newer and/or more capable machines like Prusas, Bambus, etc. Hell, even the new Creality printers are very good.
Is this thread full of people using ancient Tevos, Makerbots or even Mendels? Otherwise I can't explain this.

>>2747439
Anons I'm a neet and there's a k1 coming over the mail in a day or two. It's time to let go... Of your money

>>2747439
Longest print I've done on my ratrig vcore 3.1 500mm^3 was 3 days.
Would have taken 9 days on my ender 5+
When you get good equipment, you don't need to leave the printers running so long.

>>2747451
You don't understand. It's not that their printers are taking so little time to print stuff, they are genuinely scared of leaving their printer unattended for an hour or 2 while they go shopping. Some even turn the machine off mid print and resume once they're back home.
I'd dig up a couple of posts from the archive for you but I'm not at home right now.

>>2747439
When I first bought my Ender 3 I was mildly concerned with leaving it running while I was outside the house in case the power supply connector failed and caught fire and burned the house down.

>>2747439
>the ender knows when you're in a hurry
>the ender knows when you need it the most
>the ender feels your fear of failed prints
and when it does, it stops working
>>2743735
anon, thank you very much for the suggestion of applying thermal paste. the problem was indeed the cooling. I applied thermal paste to the entire cold side of the bimetal heatbreak and installed a new aliexpress cht nozzle. the ender extrudes again, at the speeds I like to see. I attached a pic of the setup and the test print

>>2747457
it's hard to know what they're so afraid of
I guess some people are just irrational

>>2747545
If you're worried that your printer might catch fire maybe you should not be shitposting on /diy/ about how you're too scared to leave the machine unattended. Maybe you should be doing something that reduces or eliminates this risk. Just maybe.

>>2747541
kek, that's a good one

>>2747541
>The ender knows
kek

>>2747545
How did this happen?

>>2746980
>Look, the reason 3d printing only took off in the last 10 years is because of blah blah blah
3D printing took off in the last ten years because the Stratasys FDM printer patent expired in 2009. All that shit you are listing were solved in the 1960's.
Just like how we're seeing all these enclosed printers all of a sudden... Stratasys' heated build chamber patent expired in 20201. Until then you couldn't sell an enclosed printer with the electronics outside the enclosure.
Our patent system allows for patenting the obvious and hording the exclusive rights for far too long. No wonder China is eating our lunch.

>>2747566
>>housefire
>How did this happen?
He tried to get something more expensive than an Ender 3 but not as reliable as a Prusa
>>2747541
>>2747565
The Ender knows where it is at all times.

I just realized filament changing is absolute dogshit. I don't remember how I did it previously, but Cura now (Cura 5.2.2 because 5.3 refuses to boot and 5.6 refuses to slice) pukes a blob of filament just before the change. Lurking around, it is because printers don't agree on the direction to which to extrude during filament change, so instead of providing options Ultimaker shits the bed and just E30. What I did was adding another postprocessing step:
Search and replace:
Search: ^M600 E
Replace: M600 E-
Use regular expressions: yes
Basically, it adds a minus sign - to the Extrusion parameter in lines starting with M600 (filament change) to convince the Ender to negatively-extrude (that is, retract) the filament.
If you have multiple filament changes, adding the search and replace only once after all the changes SHOULD work (as it SHOULD go through the entire file and fix all occurences of /^M600 E/ to /M600 E-/). It did work on a sample print with one change.

>>2747643
The print in question. It survived relatively blobless. I may have relied too much on the ARC welder and the stars ended up being circles. Maybe disabling that and using a smoler nozzle could have helped, but I don't live off this.
And, of course, BOKE.

>>2747643
>printers don't agree on the direction to which to extrude during filament change
I'm guessing some are intended to just cut the filament at the direct extruder, and squeeze out the remainder while the new filament is being loaded live? Be quicker if you had the auto hardware for it (or my meme series extruder idea), but you'd think this would be an option in the slicer.

Maybe you should just reflash marlin on your ancient printer, chances are there's a bunch of features you're missing too.

>ultimaker
What decade are you in?

Hey bros, complete and utter newfag to printing here. I got an Ender 3 Pro alongside a BLTouch automatic bed leveler fairly recently that I've been trying to get to work, but for some reason a) the SD card slot keeps refusing to work, saying "No TF Card" (and if it does it completely jumbles up the contents inside trying to inject the EEPROM crap in there) and b) the bed leveling straight up isn't working.
Normally I'd be okay with just continuing to troubleshoot the z-offset like the instructions tell me to so I can get a print out, but the SD card is just not reliable. Is there a proper tutorial to getting it to work with just my computer instead? Google gives me nothing but doodoo.

>>2747649
>cut the filament at the direct extruder, and squeeze out the remainder while the new filament is being loaded live?
Dinnae, the blob is on the model itself, one would think the program would park the hotend away from the print if that were the case. I think it's "if you are trying to E during a filament change it is obviously because you are trying to retract the filament" vs "positive E is extrusion always, negative E is retraction always".
>you'd think this would be an option in the slicer
Indeed. It baffles me too.
>Be quicker if you had the auto hardware for it
Changing filaments is just a little pain in the ass in my printer. I'm thinking about converting it to direct drive but with a reverse bowden so as to avoid the filament getting caught, so I still would need to manually retract a whole bunch of filament.
>Maybe you should just reflash marlin on your ancient printer, chances are there's a bunch of features you're missing too.
Indeed. I'm still running the vanilla 2020 firmware in my Ender 3v1. I'm thinking about just replacing the mainboard whole. 32bit, new firmware, everything.
>>ultimaker
>What decade are you in?
Cura 5.2 is from last year but indeed, my '20 Ender 3 is literally last decade.

>>2747692
>Is there a proper tutorial to getting it to work with just my computer instead?
Octoprint. Try and run it separate, at the very least in a virtual machine with an USB passthrough to the printer, or if you can on a dedicated computer. Even a Raspberry Pi 3B+ can work.

>>2747702
>one would think the program would park the hotend away from the print if that were the case
Well you see, that would require g-code that tells it to do so, and hence is the slicer's responsibility, not the printer's. At least I think it's more likely than it flipping the minus sign, but who knows. Considering the number of people using these printers, it's probably documented somewhere.

Also just figured out you meant that the slicer was made by Ultimaker, not the printer.

Using a Sovol with Sunlu PLA filament. Some of my prints are coming out stringy, but the strings are more like "fuzz." (I don't need things to be string-free, but the fuzz is worrying me because I don't want it to get everywhere and I think it's gotten caught in a fan on the extruder)
I was using Black filament and there was just stringing, now when using grey filament I'm getting the fuzzy stringing. Fairly new to this, can anyone help me reduce/remove the "fuzzing"?

My settings are 5mm retract distance, 190 nozzle temp, 60 bed temp, 50mm/s print speed, 40mm/s retract speed. I haven't messed with Nozzle Wipe or Engage Dwell.

>>2747860
maybe not enough retraction distance or speed, though i'd probably leave it as is and just use a small flame to remove the fuzz

maybe try it with lower power to the part cooling fan. i get a similar issue now that i upgraded to a v6 hot end with double cooling fans and i think it's too much cooling, i heard similar things about sovol part cooling.

>>2747860
Has it been sitting out? When my pla absorbed humidity, it got really stringy like that.

>>2747860
>PLA
>whispy
how did you do that anon?
Also which sovol has a bowden setup?

>>2747860
Try increasing nozzle temperature and fan speed. As a workaround, NOT a solution, consider adding a mosquito mesh around the fan.

>>2747541
>the ender extrudes again, at the speeds I like to see
Glad to hear, anon.
>attached a pic of the setup and the test print
Looks like an ABL probe should be the next on your list.

>>2747566
Early printers didn't came with thermal runaway protection and for a while they did, but weren't enabled by certain infamous manufacturers. It's where the distrust of stock boards and their software initially came from.

>>2747702
>I'm still running the vanilla 2020 firmware in my Ender 3v1
The absolute state of 3dpg.

>>2747943
>>I'm still running the vanilla 2020 firmware in my Ender 3v1
>The absolute state of 3dpg.
Cut me some slack desu, I've kept it shut down for a few months as I don't do 3D for a living. I'll get to it eventually, either flashing the board or replacing it.
On that issue, is the 32b BTT too much? Or would it be but is it mainstream nowadays?
Also, how much good would motor dampers do after the upgrade? Does the vibration absorption help with print quality or is it just for sound dampening?

>>2747692
>the SD card slot keeps refusing to work, saying "No TF Card"
You've selected the "Init. TF Card" option in the main menu directly below that, right?
I mean I have an Ender 3 Standard, not Pro, but mine says there's no card in it even after I've inserted one, until I select the initialize option.

>>2747948
Lurk more or fuck off. Your ignore hurts.

>>2747960
>Your ignore
Gnothi seauton, katamites

>>2747545
Would enclosures have made a difference?

>>2747948
>32b BTT
More on that
https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-1364537759
https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-896428200
(prices in ARS, with USDARS roughly 1200, so roughly 200 vs 60 USD)
Why tf are the prices so widely different for basically the same board? Are there subtly different models or is it just my fucked up shithole?
>inb4 for USD70 you can get both it and the screen straight from Chinkia
You don't say.
https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-1383293835
Here's the supposed drop-in replacement from Cr*ality, at around 100 dollars.
Maybe I could wait until imports stabilize again with the new president and flash (about fucking time) my current board meanwhile.
Any fellow negrentinos? ¿Espero a que el peluca estabilice las importaciones o me como el chotazo ahora?

>>2747948
either get the 32bit board or the dampers, also before blindly buying dampers check if your steppers have pressfit pulleys in which case I'd avoid unless you enjoy suffering

>>2747973
Noted. I was going to get the 32b board anyways so I'll forget about the dampers. And yes, the pulleys are pressfit, thanks for the heads up.

The k1 is so much better it's not even funny. This is a proper 21st century machine right there.

Done

>>2747978
+80 mao habe been deposited in your Zhima Credit account. Grory to de party!

Greetings, is Ender 3 pro still the best printer for a newbie? I'm new in 3d printing, but I worked at factory as eng- monkey and have autism.

>>2747984
Printing the boat thing now it should be done in a few minutes

>>2747990
Done

>>2747978
The K1 is a ripoff of the bambu labs which itself is a rip off of the voron.
Why do you think you're getting anything relevant in current year when you're so far from the source?
The K1 was out of date in 2018

Does anyone here print scaled-down models on FDM?
Things that are designed in 1:1 scale, But you want to print in let say 1:10 scale?
I have a cad-step file of complete stainless kitchen (life size), But because sheet metal is only 1.5mm thick at 1:10 scale it becomes 0.15mm thick.
Is there some quick and dirty way to get stuff like this printable?
I really don't want to do a complete re-design just for one 3d print.
I would accept some loss of detail,... I just need the outside shape.
pic for example

>>2747986
The ender 3 pro is very cheap so it is recommended for newbies
It is also very shit.
Everything is manual, everything is shit, everything breaks all the time. It's a great learning tool because you'll be constantly fixing it.
I would recommend you buy one used instead of giving more money to the chinese like other posters in this thread. I've had good experience buying used printers on ebay. Just avoid anything riced out.

>>2748017
>Is there some quick and dirty way to get stuff like this printable?
Short answer: No
Long answer:
Yes but you need to put the STL into blender and box out any thin areas so they will slice.
You should separate the mesh into individual parts where you can then glue them together afterwards.
That sink will be impossible to print unless you split off the legs and print them on their side.

anything fun and useful to print from TPU besides onahole?

>>2748027
Exotic onahole
tpu glock

>>2748027
Dildo mold positives (DO NOT stick printed TPU inside you)

Anyone who has used this filiment and know what I'm in for?
I have a bambu x1 carbon

>>2748016
>which itself is a rip off of the voron.
The only thing they share in common is they are corexy 3d printers
The two couldn't be any different in terms of philosophy and construction

>>2748032
Get steel nozzles, make sure your hotend can do sustained 300°C extrusions, and get or make a filtered enclosure
>bambu
You're in for a world of pain
>filiment
You're in for a WHOLE world of pain

>>2748022
Pic is just for example. In real version it's just mostly enclosed boxy stuff: drawers and cupboards, and appliances.
But they are made of thin sheet metal and it doesn't get recognised when scaled down.
I was thinking maybe some sort of tool like "vacuum forming" or something that would encapsulate the outside shape and maybe just hint at the gaps between the panels. Imagine putting 3d object in a big elastic bag and then vacuum the air out.

>>2748038
You could import into Blender and stick cubes and prisms inside, have you tried it?

>>2748036
>300°C extrusions
You don't HAVE to do 300 with nylon... But you get wonderful layer adhesion if you do.

>>2748042
I said it to have some leeway. If you can sustain 300°C extrusions, you will do fine with the ~270 °C needed for that filament.

>>2748036
perhaps ruby might be a better choice than steel, steel doesn't transfer heat very well, and with nylon that can be an issue.
>>2748044
If you're spending on CF in your nylon, why wouldn't you want the best layer adhesion you can get?

>>2748027
Rc tank tracks

>>2748027
Phone case.

>>2748027
Cock sock
>>2748029
Glock cock sock

>>2748017
>just for one 3d print.
Why not order it? It figuratively screams for SLA. If all services are too expensive for you, try a local guy for a 6 pack beer.

>>2748027
>fun
no.
>useful
Lots of formfitting bumpers and floor pads.

>>2748046
At that point, rather look into carbide. Cheaper, better heat performance and as long as you stay with CF, same life expectancy.

>>2747597
>>2747565
>>2747541
The 3D printer knows where its printhead is at all times. It knows this because it knows where it isn't printing. By subtracting where it is extruding from where it isn't, or where it isn't extruding from where it is (whichever is greater), it obtains a difference, or deviation. The mainboard uses these deviations to generate corrective commands to drive the printhead from a position where it is to a position where it isn't extruding, and arriving at a position where it wasn't extruding, it now is. Consequently, the position where it is extruding is now the position that it wasn't extruding, and it follows that the position that it was extruding is now the position that it isn't extruding. In the event that the position that it is in is not the position that it wasn't extruding, the system has acquired a variation. The variation being the difference between where the printhead is extruding and where it wasn't extruding. If variation is considered to be a significant factor, it too may be corrected by the mainboard. However, the 3D printer must also know where it was extruding. The 3D printer control scenario works as follows. Because a variation has modified some of the information the 3D printer has obtained, it is not sure just where it is printing. However, it is sure where it isn't extruding, within reason, and it knows where it was extruding. It now subtracts where it should be extruding from where it wasn't, or vice versa. By differentiating this from the algebraic sum of where it shouldn't be extruding and where it was extruding, it is able to obtain the deviation and its variation, which is called error.

>>2748027
Harmonic drive spline

>>2748039
I mainly use fusion360. Main problem is that there are radiuses, ridges, bends,... And you cant just fill them with boxes, because edges always poke trough, ... There would be so much cleanup.
I was looking at blender and the shrinkwrap tool. I will try that.
>>2748069
>Why not order it?
I didn't have much contact with sla printing, but i think 0.15mm thick plates, the size of 80x60mm would also cause some problems, like warping? Or would they not?
I really thought I would print this quick and easy (and cheap) over the night and had the model ready tomorrow.
I've printed some furniture designed from wood; 20mm thick boards scales down to 2mm. Just hit print, leave supports inside, clean the outside and it's done.

I really think I am missing something here. There must be some way to do stuff like this without re-designing everything. People (companies) do print scale down models, do they not? It's hard for me to believe they would redesign everything every time.

>>2748113
>People (companies) do print scale down models, do they not?
I don't think that's really a thing outside of posh interior designers. They usually just show you renders and go from there. I've seen it in architecture, but then it's like full buildings ..and also just SLA..

>>2748016
Literally who the fuck cares if its a ripoff?
Brand loyal retards make me sick.

>>2748038
Yeah speaking from experience that does not exist in the way you want it to, I wanted to do the same thing to a nonmanifold game model to make it printable but unfortunately the options available either severely distort the object or don't work unless it's basically already printable. At least from what I've been able to determine, would love to be wrong though.

>>2748069
Thermal conductivity of Tungsten Carbide is max 88 W/m.K. so unless you are getting a carbide tip in a brass body then you really really want to avoid it.

Is thetre anything that can compete with bambulab that isn't chinkshit garbage?

>>2747643
>>2747646
So I ran another print, this time with multiple filament changes. A batch of keychain fobs. So many filament changes I had to have a cheat sheet. At least I learned how to change filaments without clogging the hotend. Everything is going as fine as can be expected. Next time I'm adding a priming tower or some blocky color-agnostic utility print.

>>2748152
If you want something inexpensive get an Ender. If you want something useful get a Prusa. Everything in between is expensive chink shit.

>>2748158
why would you get a prusa when you can do voron for the same price?

>>2748097
Onahole dentata.

>>2748142
Go on..

>>2748163
Go on how? The hotter and/or faster you print, the more heat you need to move into the plastic in the melt chamber. As the nozzle is usually also the melt chamber, you want to use a material with a high thermal conductivity. In real-world terms this means brass, as pure copper is a bit soft and prone to oxidizing and for some reason nobody seems to make a pure silver nozzle.

>>2748152
ratrig Vcore 3.1
https://ratrig.com/catalog/product/view/id/1386/s/v-core3default/category/168/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPxlbfAeEq0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nhLlUgCpE4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqA59fg9dEM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgkK7Fez8VU

It is simply the best enthusiast printer you can buy. It is one step above a voron in terms of quality and product experience. It also comes from Portugal which is nearly a western country but the software and design is done by actual Europeans.
I highly recommend it, I've got a 500mm3 one myself.
It blows a bambu labs out of the water in terms of print speed, reliability, user experience and modability. You do have to build it yourself which you need to consider. Instructions are found here: https://docs.ratrig.com/v-core-3-1/v-core-mechanical

>>2748168
The thermal conductivity of the plastic itself will be a limiting factor. That's why high flow nozzles are around 2 inches long.
The tungsten will probably behave acceptably if it was the correct shape. But you don't need anything other than a chrome plated brass nozzle for all except specalist filaments.

Why is delta not the standard?

>>2748174
>500mm3
I assume you mean (500mm)^3, and not 500*mm^3), right? Because the latter one is really small.

>>2748168
You're missing the point. The real world difference of brass and tungsten carbide is negligible, in most cases no adjustment is needed at all. For better illustration look at hardened steel noozles with an average of 26W/mk. That should sound horrible against brass, but really it's "just" 20C adjustment..

>>2748174
>>2748152
Construct3D is also working on a nifty machine, although i'm not really sure about it's progress.

>>2748188
I think his point was that carbide is no better than hardened steel in thermal conductivity.

Wonder if we'd be better off embedding a temperature sensor in the nozzle itself (in addition to the normal thermistor), that way we don't have to worry about temperature drop through the nozzle. The issue is that different extrusion rates will need different temperature offsets. Different amounts of part cooling will also make a difference. Arguably you could do it in software, by using a crude model of thermal resistance. Either way, the temperature in the heater block will be hotter than at the nozzle, in some cases that might be long enough and hot enough to degrade the filament.

Maybe you could inductively heat the nozzle itself...

>>2748160
>you can do voron for the same price?
Only if your time is worthless

wow what a great deal!
https://store.flsun3d.com/products/pre-owned-flsun-v400?variant=45893319753896

>>2748185
just look at the size of this fucker >>2748203

>>2748201
You'd need a temperature sensor inside the filament melt zone itself, anything outside that is moving progressively back down the "estimating what is happening in the middle of the melt zone" prediction chain. If you have a good model of hotend conductivity (not so hard, it's a solid piece of material with defined and fixed composition and geometry) and a good model of filament conductivity and thermal dynamics (the hard bit) you can forward-predict melt zone temperature from heater temperature. If you do not have that model, then shifting the thermistor around in the hotend is just rearranging deckchairs on the Titanic - still blind to the actually important data, just pretending you know better.

>Maybe you could inductively heat the nozzle itself...
There's at least one hotend that does that (INO Trident) but I don't think they've ever actually shipped anything.
Personally, I'd skip right to using the technique Metcal uses for soldering irons: a tuned Curie-point material and high frequency high power RF to heat rapidly with effectively no overshoot (once the material hits its Curie point, it loses its magnetic susceptibility and the RF no longer heats it and just resonates within the feeder, so does not waste any power). Since the PSU is offboard, the hotend can be extremely light and you can shove 100W of heater power in without issue. Not cheap, though.

>>2748206
oh good to know that the reason is something that doesn't matter

>>2748185
the calibration and geometry wasnt as aproachable for the average hobbiest in the early days. it wasnt until the duet boards that deltas became fairly plug and play. also X/Y designs got to a "good enough" point, that made most say why bother with anything else.

my first printer was a rostock max V2 and i still use it today. long live the delta bros!

>>2747439
I have a very old CR-10s. I've modified the crap out of it and have no issue leaving it for a few hours or letting it run over night, but when I first got it, cheap chinese printers were still a new thing and there were stories of bad wiring causing fires. I still prefer to avoid starting prints that I know are going to be running while I'm at work for 9 hours.

>>2748153
>A batch of keychain fobs
Just under 9h of printing, but they're done

>>2748153
>some blocky color-agnostic utility print
Wait you can do that? Tell it to use a utility print as a purge tower?

>>2748209
>You'd need a temperature sensor inside the filament melt zone itself
That's why I'd want temperature sensing in both the heater block and the nozzle.
>If you have a good model of hotend conductivity
Not only is final nozzle temperature dependant on the the temperature of the heater block the nozzle is screwed into, but the amount and temperature of filament being pushed into the nozzle, and the amount and temperature of airflow around the nozzle. I'm not sure whether all of these are significant, but it's not trivial.

>metcal
Do they make curie point desoldering irons? As in the ones with hollow soldering tips? How feasible is it to coat a soldering tip in something hard I wonder?

>>2748217
Did you ferrule the wires going into screw terminals?

>>2747861
I've been using a heatgun. I'm just worried the fuzz will clog up the machine since it might settle in weird places, and it's plastic not some thing cloth.

>>2747862
That's probable. I'm in a cold/wet place and I don't have a fancy dehumidifier box for the PLA. I leave the unopened/not in use ones in a container but nothing for what's being used.

>>2747872
>how did you do that anon?
(Mis)fortune? Using SV06.

>>2747911
I'll try those things. I've been trying to add mesh but it's small and don't want the mesh to get clogged in the fan itself, heh

>>2748243
>That's why I'd want temperature sensing in both the heater block and the nozzle.
By 'filament melt zone' I meant literally inside the core of the filament. That's where you care about reaching a desired temperature (molten plus some extra delta depending on desired viscosity). Measurements outside of the filament itself (like the nozzle) do not tell you about what is actually occurring where you care about the temperature.

>Do they make curie point desoldering irons? As in the ones with hollow soldering tips? How feasible is it to coat a soldering tip in something hard I wonder?
Yes, but the closest to something useful stock would be the STDC-002, which is fixed 357°C with a 0.64mm bore. Might actually be useful for high-temp materials, but those generally dislike high speed which eliminates a lot of the benefits. Coating shouldn't be too difficult if you're willing to pay, the fancy diamondlike-carbon coating E3D uses for the 'diamondback' nozzles is a standard industrial coating process you can just send your parts off to have applied.

>>2748243
>>some blocky color-agnostic utility print
>Wait you can do that? Tell it to use a utility print as a purge tower?
You can place a print in a specific corner and tell the slicer to start each layer in that corner, by default 0,0/lower left/front left. It SHOULD start each layer there and eat any drippings from a filament change.
>>2748246
>I'm in a cold/wet place and I don't have a fancy dehumidifier box for the PLA. I leave the unopened/not in use ones in a container but nothing for what's being used.
Try keeping the selfsealing bags and keeping the spools there while not on the printer. Stuff a few grams of silica gel balls inside each bag. You can try and dry out the rolls in the oven after warming it up at the lowest setting and then turned off, or just dry the balls on a tray. Of course, do not stick the bags in the oven.

>>2748252
>Try keeping the selfsealing bags and keeping the spools there while not on the printer
Still have some of the bags and the silica so will do. Thanks for the advice.
Probably will work on making a drying box next.

Someone told me I should always use ABS if I can, but I'm just starting and don't have an enclosed printer to keep it warm (and probably many other recommended tools for ABS), does it need to be kept dehumidified like PLA?

got a used camera for 20 cad, its just sitting on the printer for now, maybe i should have got a better one, my printer is also in my basement junk room so the room is completely dark, will have to figure out a lighting solution i guess

>>2748260
Don't sweat it too much about the drying box if you already have an oven or a microwave with an oven (CONVECTION/NON-MICROWAVE) function. Also, if the electrosity juice is inexpensive where you live, you can keep the AC running constantly at low so it acts as a dehumidifier. Being proactive will go a long way. Let me tell you something, I'm from Buenos Aires (and I say, kill'em all!), there's quite a bit of ambient humidity, and those basic precautions saved me a bit of headache.
>ABS
Dinnae. I haven't tried it yet. For small pieces, you can try enabling skirting in the slicer, where it prints a tube around the part to keep the bed heat in.

Saw an open box ender 3 v3 ke for $210. I didn't need another printer but at that price I figured why not. This thing is solid. Pretty quick, decent quality. Tolerance test passes down to 0.1mm on a random torture test I had.

>>2748036
The X1 Carbon comes with a hardened steel nozzle and filtered enclosure by default.

>>2748252
>It SHOULD start each layer there and eat any drippings from a filament change
Ah, because the filament changes only ever happen between layers. It's not as sure as I'd like it to be, but it's likely more than good enough.

>>2748260
IIRC PLA+ is significantly worse for absorbing humidity than unsweetened PLA is, which may be worth considering if you don't need PLA+'s properties.

>>2748277
We've just got them as a product to sell where I work, I'll inspect one when I'm back at work tomorrow after my holiday. Hope they're more rigid than the V3 SE. Be nice if they had more slots for T-nuts, but they seem to be going away from the standard extrusions. I just want to put on tie rods for rigidity, man.

>>2746396
rebuilding my home office and want to add a 3d printer as a new hobby. some quick research suggests a bambu lab P1S would be a decent option to start with that won't immediately leave me wanting for more. any reason i should avoid it before i hit microcenter to pick one up?

>>2748314
a cheaper option would be the a1 series but bambu a pretty solid and just werk most of the time. it really depends on what sort of filaments you want to work with

>>2748307

I think the ke is pretty much the same as the se but with a linear rail? I don't really know, I don't generally buy cheap printers since my original ender 3 a few years ago, but something about this just seemed desirable.

You're right though, it's not the most rigid thing. The way the little bolts attach to the frame rails is not exactly stout.

>>2748319
i h0nestly know very little. i'm just starting to do my homework to learn what is what. i do know that i want to make some useful stuff for around the house and office like some custom attachments for the skadis pegboard i bought from ikea. some art i've seen files for on printables.com would be neat to make too.

>>2748246
>(Mis)fortune using SV06
If you are running 5mm retraction on a direct drive extruder that's got nothing to do with fortune

>>2748201
>I think his point was that carbide is no better than hardened steel in thermal conductivity.
???

>>2748261
Tfw three BLtouch versions and they still don't let you simply deactivate that LED.

>>2748314
Do you care about open source or upgradability? If not, you're pretty good.

>>2748314
The good part is that it just werks and it werks great and it werks with orca slicer. The bad part is that they're chinese. Allegedly your data isn't collected, and you're also not forced to use their cloud. You can use it in LAN mode and still control the printer wirelessly from orca slicer and use the camera (without logging in any account). You just need an account for the initial setup. Personally I hate china but for printers for me right now I don't think there's anything better. I bought the P1P before the S released and I'm waiting for the enclosure upgrade to be in stock. Wanted a Prusa, but they had tome wait several months for delivery at the time.

>>2748394
>You just need an account for the initial setup.
You don't even need that, there's a 'SKIP' button right on the screen.

Ender 3 is windows 98
Ender k1 is windows 11
That's how it feels to me
Now creality is a Chinese company, I don't very much care about that or is ideologies ff

>>2748409
American ideologies*

>>2748016
>The K1 was out of date in 2018
lolno, no at that price

Where’s a good place to sell used 3d printing shit? I used to be way into it but then I started working a ton and over the past few years I haven’t touched it. Now I’m so far out of it I don’t really care anymore. Literally tons of shit. Voron 2.4, anycubic resin printer I forget the model of, geeetech a10t, a bunch of steppers, drivers, belts, gears, couplers, extruders, e3dv6s, duet3d, etc. even some ancient shit like an old early 32 bit reprap firmware board and weird shit like a few development e3d extruders because I beta tested for them for awhile. Filament and resin too but I’m betting that’s all shitty after a few years sitting even if it was in a dry box. I might just keep the voron or get rid of it all but I feel like throwing it away would be stupid and very wasteful

i want to make silicone parts (imagine making dildos but i don't want to make dildos).
i want to make a silicone model of my hand. I have access to a 3d scanner, and now I have an STL of my hand.

my plan is to use the hand STL as a tool to make a negative of my hand in a cube. then split the cube in half, with a hole at the wrist to pour silicone in. then i just clamp the mold, pour in silicone, and i have a hand made of silicone.

would this work? it sounds really fucking easy.

>>2748427
I've thought about that too but you know what's even easier? Using tpu filament.

>>2748420
probably ebay honestly, bundle up similar items together, sell as used 3d printer parts, you can look to see what similar items are going for

>>2748427
actually it's better to print the hand itself so you can sand and polish it and fix errors, working on a convex surface is easier than working on a concave. Then use the hand to make a mold and use that to make your final piece. That way you always have the original in harder plastic. You can split the stl into sections for easier printing and even hollow it out making a wall of a certain thickness to save printing time and plastic. The free program meshmixer can help with the hollowing and you can use blender to the do the splitting or just position the hand below the surface of the slicer's virtual platform if you want to cut the object in half for instance. I'd print a miniature first to work out the process. You can glue the various parts together with super glue and blend out the seems with air hardening clay or even sulfur free chavant clay which doesn't harden since you are just making a mold, but it has to be sulfur free or the silicone won't cure around it.

>>2748434
this. When you print a scanned opject the print will be fucked in some way.
>>2748427
Also you can just buy these anon

>>2748427
anon, skip the print part and just cast your hand in plaster.
save a lot of hassle

>>2748243
>Did you ferrule the wires going into screw terminals?
No, and most of the wiring has been entirely replaced as I've upgraded it.

>>2746823
Second this. My ender 3 still works great. Made over 2k with it last year.

Just bought this, Elegoo open box special $400 with the uv curing station and 2L of resin. How bad did i fuck up?

It's my first personal "cheap" resin printer. Used many industrial sized printers at work (stratasys, formlabs, carbon), and have a decade of experience with SLA and FDM.

What should i watch out for?

>>2748525
So why haven't you used that money to buy a printer that's less shit?

>>2748528
Forgot Pic

>>2748530
Resin printers are a meme. You can just change the nozzle and print anything you want with an fdm printer whereas resin printers are limited to figurines. The resin is almost more expensive.

>>2748529
No need. ABS and PET would be nice but I have no use for the material properties. PLA with 6 or 7 shells is strong as frick.

>>2748529
>>2748534
Don't reply to bait.

>>2748427
Ugh, time to repost the guide:

Design your model in CAD of choice.
Extrude the outer surface, then subtract your model from it to get a thin shell mold.
Make a big cuboid/cylinder to enclose that shell, then subtract again to get a holder for your shell.
Make sure the top of the inner shell and shell holder is open, dumbass.
Split the holder into two halves, then print them - don't need to be all that sturdy, but you MUST use an infill that does not enclose the internal volume, and you MUST poke a hole to ensure the infill can vent.
Print the thin shell, ideally in vase move. Print as thin as you possibly can without it collapsing. NO supports inside the shell, inner surface must be as smooth as you can make it.
Place the thin shell into the two halves of your holder, then tape together.
Use your CAD software to determine the volume of your model.
Melt at least that volume of beeswax (NOT paraffin wax! That will inhibit Silicone curing).
Pour the molten beeswax into the mold shell, then IMMEDIATELY pour it out again. The goal is to allow the absolute thinnest layer of wax possible to solidify inside the mold.
You now have a mold ready to pour Silicone into.
Mix your Silicone as per the provided instructions.
Degas your mixed Silicone.
Pour into the mold cavity.
Back in the vacuum chamber, then degas again. Should be minimal bubbling this time, just trapped bubbles within the mold geometry making their way out.
If you ignored my instructions earlier to ensure the infill was vented, this is the part where your print violently explodes within the vacuum chamber.
Release the vacuum, and let your part cure.
Remove tape and open the mold holder.
Rip apart the thin plastic shell mold to release the Silicone part.

The wax acts both as a mold release, barrier in case the filament you are using has some additive that inhibits curing, and smooths over layer lines.

>>2748153
>>2748243

>multiple filament changes
>Next time I'm adding a priming tower or some blocky color-agnostic utility print.

It worked perfectly fine, at least for the filament switching. The little tower ate all the blobs and strings and bumps from each filament change like a champ.

>>2746396
Anyone here have a Klp1? How is it? I heard the first gen ones were plagued with issues.

>>2748027
Shoe soles. They charge $100-$120 for a set of sneakers made out of recycled trash w/3D printed soles.

I would like to print pic rel infamous bear wine holder for my mom. What's the simplest option to defeature the logo to get an even backside? It's a 38MiB stl and when trying to copy it into a refined shape in freecad, later eats up 30gigs of ram before crashing..

>>2748698
* Place a cube in the slicer superposed with the logo that and unify volumes
* "Remove all holes" setting, at least for the first layers if there's holes in other layers
* Just print it and remove it in postprocessing with filler and sanding

>>2748698
Have you tried opening it blender or some other 3d modeling software?

>>2748696
Got one to review, its shit

>>2748802
In what ways?

>>2748618
thanks friend

>>2748802
Seconding this >>2748803

I kinda wanted Kingroon to be the non-shit non-botnet chinky brand, but it looks like they just got lucky with the KP3S. Or maybe they copied the Prusa mini like Sovol did with the standard Prusas, idk.

>>2748828
What problems did you have with it?

>>2748698
Sounds like you need more ram then. That or do what I did and hire someone from fire to fix the 3d model.

>>2748700
Thanks, anon. 1-2 sliced as i wanted already. Filler and sanding will be done anyway, but so far got never satisfied with filling larger, even sections. So i had some doubts on a big print like this.

>>2748708
Sorry, maybe should've asked if blender suffers the same problem, as it seems obvious, but i've never used it. Openscad+Freecad worked fine for my own stuff everytime.

>>2748862
Probably do 64GiBs on the next one.

>>2748261
PLA and probably the other plastics can easily soften with a heat gun. If I soften the PLA hole, and stick the metal part in, I get a clearance fit. Too bad it isn't an interference fit unless I squish the hole after removing the shaft.

>>2748876
very interesting, which post did you mean to reply to?

>>2748878
None in particular. I considered telling you that an usb endoscope has lights and support figured out. They're usually more expensive than your camera, and the image quality isn't great either.

think i can slip the stepper motor cable in the cable behind it?

>>2748900
check full range of motion

>>2748900
You won't be able to, I thought about it, but don't take my word for it. Velcro them together just for the tests and try pushing the bed all the way back and the extruder all the way up.

>>2748980
?the bed has its own cable, its not connected to the two on screen

>>2748698
You need to import it as screenshot and redo the whole thing in fusion360. I'm sorry there is no other way anon

>>2748983
I thought you wanted to join the bed and x-axis harnesses, which are indeed in the picture, sorry. Could you clarify a bit more about which harnesses or cables you want to join? The recommendations to velcro them together and check the full motion range still stands.

>>2748876

>>2748997
Going to need you to elaborate.

>>2746659
>How do I get $1000 in month without getting a job so I can buy a 3d printer that isn't trash?
suck 50 guys off for 20$ each, 5 min each, is as free money as you can get, 4h sucking cock for 1000$

I made a thing. So I can push buttons.

I need to make some customer gears at a 1:3 ratio. Any easy way to generate them? blender is a pain in the ass with gears.

>>2749094
There's a couple of openSCAD gear generators on Thingie, like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022677
JScad comes with a gear generator as part of it's demo app package.

>>2749070
nice, but you should've used textured bed to achieve pic rel

>>2749094
Do these gears have to mesh with customer-supplied gears? If so, you're going to have to know the gear module, etc.

>>2748998
NTA, but it's a play on pic related that implies that most of those pegs are dumb/unnecessary/bad designs.

>>2749094
https://makertales.gumroad.com/l/PrecisionGears
This addon for blender is good... if you want to pay.
It only does involute gears which are the ones you want for 3d printing.
It's got rack, spur, internal, bevel & worm gears.
The list of settings is in the image.

>>2749099
I see your point, but that would look horrible right next to the real carbon fibre panel on the steering wheel. Also, I already tried printing a multi material face plates using transparant PETG as a light guide. However, I was being too ambitious while designing and didn't account for my printer being shit... So the text wouldn't come out good. Ideally I'd need to fix my x-axis and get a 0.2 nozzle.

I plan on fixing this issue by ordering a sticker printed on a transparent plastic sheet and printing a multi material piece with simplified light guides. Showing expectation vs reality..

>>2749107
Holy shit lol, or just install Fusion360 on a VM or find a relevant generator for OpenSCAD.

>>2749112
That looks salvageable with an orbital sander

>>2749106
I swear one of these is a pokemon.

>>2749106
TA, i was more drawn to the /diy/ version.

>>2749122
Oh right, I'd forgotten about that version.

>>2749119
None of them are, but you're probably thinking of Unown, which bears resemblance to all of them.

>>2748876
>>2748997
All jokes aside, if you do wanna print a peg for whatever reason, top right is the actual answer.

>>2749126
what's the reason for the center cutout? to allow some flex?

>>2749122
Phillips sucks dicks fuck phillips. I have never had something pre stripped from the fucking factory before.

>>2749130
Yep and it's the only one doing so in an elastic way.

>>2749131
Philips and slotted are BOTH complete trash. Torx uber alles, Hex acceptable. Pozi is just turd-polishing.

>>2748997
>Applying subtractive metal design rules to additive polymer processes

>>2749157
Hex rounds over too easily, it’s much less tolerant of cheese-grade driver bits. Robertson is better.

>>2749160
>Eh eh poutine eh Tabarkak aboot eh

>>2749157
Do you get a bigger printer when parts don't fit?

>>2749070
That's really cool anon, nice.

>>2749157
>Applying subtractive metal design rules to additive polymer processes
Please do suggest a better option.

You can decide to buy a 3d printer that's less than $500 but you're only playing yourself

>>2749336
skill issue

>>2748698
Materialize Magics 19 is available on the Internet Archive. Designed exactly for this use.

>>2749382
It's cad and slicer all in one? Looks interesting, but probably too much overkill for me when >>2748700 worked out just fine.

>>2749336
Barely scratching the 300€ mark of my machine + upgrades yet and it prints great.

I don't know if I'm too dumb for blender or if I need to abandon it for a normal CAD.

>>2746417
>>2746408
Is there a market for palworld shit? Seems like an opportunity to sell FOTM fakemons.

>>2749410
Anon I will tell you a shortcut to get decent a blender. Now pay attention.
S is to scale, g is to move, r is to rotate.
That's it that's what you get from me for now.

>>2749334
Designing pins for FDM manufacture, and to apply force specific to the part orientation required. No fucking point having a roll pin splitting layer lines when you can print a square (or other nonrotating) pin that applies pure in-layer-plane force.

Is the RK3528 Android tv box too slow to run klipper-octoprint? Floating point is half as fast.

>>2749448
It'll get the job done fine but don't expect a nice webcam stream.

>>2749157
>Philips and slotted are BOTH complete trash. Torx uber alles, Hex acceptable. Pozi is just turd-polishing.
Correct and based.
>>2749160
>Robertson is better.
A fucking leaf.

>>2749448
Klipper runs fine on a PI3 with 1.3k M/S..

>>2749441
>just do a perfect print, bro

>>2749412
There's people selling models ripped from the game on cults3d already. Ironically with licenses that don't allow commercial use despite they stealing some one elses models
Might as well make one put it on Etsy and see if people bike

>>2747948
>Cut me some slack desu, I've kept it shut down for a few months as I don't do 3D for a living
Just powered up the OctoPi so I can print from the slicer again instead of moving my arm one metre from the computer to the printer like a fucking savage. Looks like it HAS been a while.

>>2749497
And of course I forgot the attachment

Got my first official printing side-job lads. Major hospital in the area want to do a big extension and want to show their doners and gov what it would look like, so I sketched it up in Blender.
Never would have thought that people would pay for some of these things.

Appreciate all the tips and tricks all the way anons!

>>2749499
Sounds like something an architect would normally do. That's not easy.

>>2749500
Architects are faggots who aren't manly enough to be civil engineers nor girly enough to be interior designers.
>>2749499
Congrats!

>>2749499
Good for you, anon. Keep em coming

>>2749498
>>2749497
Some while indeed

>>2749480
Not canadian, I'm from down under where robertson is used for a surprising amount of drywall and furniture. Especially that blue plastic flexy office furniture for some reason.

Pozi is even worse than phillips for the sole reason that it exists alongside phillips and causes people to mix up the drivers between the two.

stop doing this

>>2749535
Measuring your parts?

>>2749410

>>2749538
NTA, but stop using printed parts for calibration and specially taking outside measurements from both ends (or inside measurements from both ends). Instead, measure carriage or bed displacement.

>>2749547
Eh, address in the video: take outside & inside measurements (of the same drawing dimension) and average. Unless you have funky non-linear direction/area-dependant extrusion rate problems - in which case go fucking fix that rather than trying to calibrate - that will average any over or underextrusion down to 0.
The main point of measuring a print rather than just gantry motion is print measurement
1) Also catches skew error
2) Gets you in the good practice of calibrating to actual output. If you could just rely on axis motion to be guaranteed to match part dimensions, then CNC machines would eliminate QC metrology. Which they have not.

>>2749546
Excellent, for cad work there's a free addon called CadSketcher. It's enough for basic 2d cad work, but can be a bit buggy.

>>2748448
whats up with that italian hand

>>2749538
BIG MISTAKE

>>2749578
Censored by a traditore della patria, probably even puts pineapple on the pizza

>>2749535
Mitutoyo says the accuracy of these calipers is ±0.02mm... So that cube could be perfect. It could also be off by 0.3mm

did this purely because i kept seeing people on reddit do it

>>2749623
It works. Could swap the foam slab for sorbothane, but probably not worth it if you already have the foam.

>>2749623
I think the rubber sheet under the paver is too stiff.

>>2749635
>>2749636
i see quite afew people not even have anything under the paver and i already had the foam mat from my covid home gym, il live with it

>>2749636
Yo dawg I heard you like harmonic oscillators

>>2749623
>>2749636
I solved most of my Ender 3 noise problems by getting dual part fans >>2749583 , now the motor noise is mostly drowned out

>>2749656
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSK3maq8Cyk
ahh yes......

>>2749638
You don't need new foam. Just support the paver with a few small squares or strips of the old foam. A couple layers will also make the overall spring softer.

>>2749623
what is this

>>2749728
An improvised mass and lossy bidimensional spring for decreasing the resonance frequency and amplitude of the harmonic oscillator conformed by anon's printer, implemented with a stone or mortar tile and a rubber foam sheet respectively

>>2749622
Mine are spot on.

>>2749732

>>2749500
>Sounds like something an architect would normally do. That's not easy.
Their finance team don't talk to their design or building management team. They're only told a number that they need to finance. Then finance goes to the gov and high-end doners looking for $.

Are carbon fiber filaments practical for things that could wear from friction?
I understand that carbon fiber filaments are considered an abrasive to metals but upon contact with itself, wouldn't there just be an initial wear period before eventually self lubricanting from loose carbon?
Or is that only possible with certain forms of carbon like graphite?

This is my bed visualizer in OctoPrint. Is this flat enough, or should I take the tape off and try shimming it better?

>>2749785
Looks good to me
if you're really worried about warping then just use the middle bit of the bed. 0.1mm is not very much. Ensure you're doing the bed mesh while the bed is hot because you'll get different results.

>>2749785
You have 0.18mm total variation (so about a layer height), you want to try and halve that at least. For reference my bed has a total variation of about 0.08mm

Tpu filament is fucking awesome holy shit, it comes out like goo and you can squeeze that fucking shit!

>>2749819
I should clarify, that's mostly out being out of level rather than warped.

>>2749820
come back to us in 3 hours when the filament is wet and wont even extrude properly
That's assuming you're using 70A TPU

>>2749823
Not sure but I did set it to 220 C.
So far so good

>>2749771
Nylon is the better plastic for something that gets friction.

I don't think CF will become self lubricating, but I don't know. You'll have to test it.

>>2749771
It's only certain forms of graphite. Diamonds are just carbon as well, but they're used as an abrasive.

>>2749622
Mitutoyo absolutes are overpriced, but they are more accurate than the +/-.001 they claim. With plastic you just need to make sure you're only applying enough pressure to get an accurate measurement and you're not squishing it.

Patabred, patabred, bakersman
Bake me a bred as fast as you can
Roll it and paste it and prick it with a P
And put it in the oven for Printer and me

>>2749623
I did this purely on my own accord. I don't go on reddit and I never saw anyone else do it. Mine's on the floor though.

>>2749877
Interestingly, Mitutoyo may claim an accuracy, but they advise you treat their calipers as being no more accurate than ASME B89. (which is probably a good idea for most any caliper.)

>>2746396
do you guys feel that your 3d printers as more of a hobby that you're willing to spend money on or do you think they have made economical sense because of all the things you've been able to make? i'm just trying to rationalize the purchase of one by telling myself i can make it pay itself back by making things i need around the house that i would otherwise to have to buy from a store.

>>2750070
No one... i repeat.... no one has ever printed anything useful with their 3D printer. The sci fi dreams of printing a pen or a dinnerware set or a lamp shade or some other commodity item still remain as sci fi dreams today.
3D printers are engineering tools today, have been for the last 30 years and will continue to be for the next 30 years.
Yuppies will buy an entire chinkbu-labs p1 just to print a monocolour baby yoda head with revolting surface finish. I guess if you want to fill your house with 600 of those then yes you will save money. Other than that, don't bother.
If you want to rationalise your purchase, decide to become a product designer and learn to design products. Rapid prototyping is what 3D printers are for. The only other use for them will be mid scale manufacturing and even that use case will be limited to things with poor surface finish.

>>2750077
> no one has ever printed anything useful with their 3D printer
says you

>>2750077
Even if you don't need it like the poster above. What are you going to spend it on?
Listen the best investment is yourself. You invest in yourself you can have 1000% apy starting you invest in stonks you have a 50% or so apy if you're lucky.

What crimping tool should I buy that could be used with JST SH, JST XH, JST SM and "dupont" connectors? (must be for all of these).?
I need to rewire my printers, there was too many cable breaks already, it is just getting worse.

@2750077
No Timmy, we will not stop liking a hobby just because you happen to not like it. Go find something else you like instead.

>>2750070
Nah. I wouldn’t think about it like that. The big difference is if you are willing to learn cad so you can make your own custom solutions or are just going to hope someone else does it for you.
If you can design, you can save money by repairing things and solving problems with custom solutions but it’s probably not paying for itself.

>>2750144
>The big difference is if you are willing to learn cad so you can make your own custom solutions
oh for sure. i feel like their are many projects i don't do simply because i cant buy what i need to solve one issue or another.

>>2750118
>What crimping tool should I buy that could be used with JST SH, JST XH, JST SM and "dupont" connectors? (must be for all of these).?

Got an ender v3 ke for free. Never 3d printed before. Is it just a novelty or is there anything useful I can do with it?

>>2750202
There is useful, or at least entertaining, stuff you can do with it, but whether or not it's the best solution for you is purely up to you, and for you to figure out.
First run the sample prints just to get familiarized with the machine itself and how it works, and go through the resources listed in the OP.
Then according to your background and your interests see what you can print. Maybe you are a D&D nerd and wanna try printing some figurines. Maybe you are missing a soap tray or curtain hook or something of the sort but could do without a trip to the hardware store. Maybe try printing fairings or cable chains or shit like that for the printer itself.
That should give you an idea about whether or not you want to pursue it further.

>>2750204
>soap tray
I'm actually planning on making one of those for my mother. That and cup stackers.

>>2750202
how?

>>2750207
Not that other anon that got the ender 3 I forgot to mention.

>>2750202
its only as useful as you make it, ultimately, maybe 90% of 3d printer users only make useless Knick knacks

>image of me seething that i spent hundreds of dollars modding an e3v2 to be as good as a v3 ke when someone got it for free

>>2750210
Nothing wrong with knick knacks, especially if you can sell them.

>>2750212
>mfw i have an e3v1 that i'm slowly trying to upgrade into ${CURRENT_YEAR}
>mfw i have no face

>>2750214
stfu, go print your baby yodas somewhere else

>>2750219
Where did the baby yoda touch you? Did he use the force?

>>2750208
I clicked on a pop up that said I won it free.

>>2750204
Thank you! I’ll play around first to get accustomed, and start reading through that. I’m fairly handy, weld more than woodworking, but I make shit from time to time. This may be a good arrow in my quiver.

>>2750219
I printed a chip bag clip that is highly functional. Also gave away some christmas presents of models I found on thingiverse.

my sister wants me to make her best friend who runs a small cake business cake toppers, is there any reason to NOT just make these in PLA?

>>2750247
you guys are like babies, my toilet button broke and its an obscure italian design thats impossible to find replacement parts for, after 5 hours in tinkercad, i got it all put together, this is what 3d printing was meant for ( ignore the possible hygiene concerns )
Also printed my car key as the housing for it broke, use it everyday

what the fuck, the ender 3 v3 ke also has linear rails? looks like il need to drop another $150 into my ender to make it up to date
whats a sunk cost fallacy?

>>2750260
It’s a strange printer. Linear rail X, guide rods on Y, V-rollers on Z. Honestly I’d put linear rails everywhere instead of on just one axis.

>>2750251
Yes I'm still not at the point where I'm designing my own shit I'm just borrowing other people's designs, modifying them.

>>2749499
>the moob grab

>>2750100
What is that?

>>2750260
Or.. just don't buy an Ender. I'm still in favor of a disclaimer.

>>2750248
Are you prepared to defend your prints as food safe if complaints get back to you?

>>2750248
I would make them to take bamboo skewers as the stake. Then nothing you printed touches food and it’s a non issue.

>>2750319
cant imagine they would want that, it would ruin the look, as long as the cake topper isnt re-used, i imagine there wouldnt be much issue making it in PLA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M36EQRcls3c
so glad I bought a prusa
hahahahahahaha roflmao it's over for bambu, how will they ever recover. I will NEVER buy one of their printers now! I even canceled my order!

>>2750310
>Or.. just don't buy an Ender.
just don't buy chinkshit brands. I have so little trust in anything with a chink name. they all cut corners of things, even when it doesn't make sense to.

>>2750335
my ender feels to be of high quality, I got it on sale and was very pleasantly surprised at the quality of materials and of packaging, the only thing lacking, as usual is the translation as the english text is fugged

>>2750332
maybe spray coat them in some kind of (idk foodsafe clearcoat?? epoxy??) and make sure to remove all burrs and potential fragments, I wouldn't be comfortable with it imho

>designed for quick swaps
>still requires different offsets for each nozzle
>still no tried and tested materials like hardened/stainless steel, carbide
>high flow unclogging is fun
>"hardened" noozle is a standard industrial coating with trademarked name
>patent pending
>high temp is a full u-turn back to heat cartridges
>4 to 20times more expensive than their V6 counterparts
I almost regret looking into this shitshow and there's a whole separate chapter on their new roto failing to orbiter in every field of comparison. Did they suffer some major brain drain over the last few years? I tried to give it a serious thought over the weekend to swap more easily between my fine pla and bigger cf profiles, but giving their exorbitant pricing to very little benefit, i am not even considering it anymore.

>>2750342
Yes, i am mad over a corpo being dipshits once again. I know i shouldn't be.

>>2750332
Epoxy dunk them. It's tried and tested, several articles to look up. There's a plethora of problems regarding layer riffles, but also color additives in the plastic and manufacturing leftovers like ABS. Arguably none of that matters if you're living in a third world country like China, but a fellow printing nerd may call you or the bakery out on it. I would.

>>2750353
yea, thats what im thinking, id just hate to mix up a 2 part batch every time, dont think a 1 part food safe epoxy is out there

pretty sure i did nothing and now the preview image in fluidd is gone even though the images appear in the file list

>>2750248
if they're single-use and you soak then in IPA before using, should be fine.

>>2750353
Yeah additives are the only thing I'd be worried about.

>>2750361
RTV silicone?

what do you guys think of the ZeroG coreXY conversion for E5's

>>2750342
>Did they suffer some major brain drain over the last few years?
E3D is going full retard for at least 2 years now. Worst part is that the new voron toolheads are designed to work only with these new abominations.
And in any case the entire 3d printing community dropped neurons. Remember how toolchangers were starting to catch on 2 years ago? E3D had their toolchanger, the Jubilee project was actually taken seriously and overall people liked the idea.
Now we're back to the dark days of prusa MMU purge blocks for multimaterial because the voron fags made their own MMU and it's the Current Thing™.

>>2750332
Or just print in PETG, which is certified food safe? It's most likely that nothing will go wrong, but I'd rather sleep safe at night knowing that my ass is covered.
You never know if that one problem customer turns out to be a 3D print hobbyist too, somehow finds out it's PLA and starts making a scene
>OH MY GOSH YOU ARE LITERALLY POISONING PEOPLE!!!!
>I REPORT U
and then the owners put all the blame on you

>>2750248
Give them a food safe resin coating and you're fine. 3d Printing surfaces are microbe catchers and nothing from the manufacturing of the filament to the printing process are anything close to clean

>>2750381
PLA is literally food safe rated

>>2750070
just the time saved not having to scroll through thousands of chink item listings on amazon to find that one particular solution/adapter I have in mind was well worth it. half an hour in cad followed by an hour or two of printing is all it takes

>>2750381
>Or just print in PETG, which is certified food safe
Lmao. The absolute state of /3dpg/

make a delta voron you fucking nerds

>>2750248
that sure looks like a job for a hilbert curve top surface

>>2750070
I save money because instead of buying people gifts for christmas I can just print some junk for 2 dollars and they are impressed

>>2750362
that's just open sores software for you

>>2750342
>Did they suffer some major brain drain over the last few years?
Yes, one of the founding guys died.
>still requires different offsets for each nozzle
I though this was one of the things it was supposed to solve with every nozzle being dimensionally the same.

>>2750390
For what? Everything we got right is better one way or the other. If you just need clout build a K200 or buy a V400.

>>2750369
I'm not surprised, about the later. Toolheads are complicated and can get expensive quickly. Meanwhile everyone is seeing MMU + clones and Bambu's systems just working fine. On the former;
>>2750403
>Yes, one of the founding guys died.
Guess i really suppressed Mortimer being gone into the bulk of what was 2021. Amazing to see the timeline matching up perfectly for E3D starting to tumble.

>>2750369
>And in any case the entire 3d printing community dropped neurons
Kinda of a big problem with alot of open-source projects in general, eventually your community is infested with people promoting half-baked ideas and solutions that are constantly a step forward and a step back all to create busy work for themselves.