/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2742242
are there any good woodfill filaments that arent PLA?

Okay so the answer might be obvious... I bought an air fryer that has a dehydrator mode for a good price. I used it at first to dry TPU, my curiousity had gotten the better of me, and I have been using it for food, and its kind of addicting.

Question is, if I use it for drying pa6 nylon filament, it would be advised not to use it for food afterwards I assume?

>>2742260
people put their filament in the oven. You are not heating it to the point where it disintegrates. shouldn't be an issue I guess. I wouldn't do it though personally

>>2742258
Few and far between. Every woodfill I've tried that wasn't PLA was PETG and sucked balls.

How do I stop the infil from showing through on the outer walls of a silk pla print?
3 wall instead of 2? Slower infil?

>>2742260
With the amount of microplastics everywhere I wouldn't be worried about it desu

>>2742291
Try 3 walls, it can help. Infill/Perimeter overlap might be too high, a lot of default profiles have it very high when it rarely needs to be more than ~10%
Infill before Walls can help too, but it's the last resort in my opinion as it's a shitty way to print.

>>2742293
Thanks fella

>>2742293
Just to make sure I'm chaging the right thing, that is "sparse infil anchor length" right?

Also does any one know if its possible to make the top surface of a silk print shiny? Ironing just makes it matte sadly

>>2742301
No, that's an unrelated setting that has to do with how it begins infill lines within the model. Check picrel

Slowing down significantly for top surfaces will give a shinier finish, you want the temp as high as it can be while still printing acceptably, and experimenting with a little over or under extrusion can enhance the effect. A wider extrusion width can help, you can increase the Top Solid Infill extrusion width (0.5-0.6 with a 0.4mm nozzle works well), but it'll have a harder time filling tight corners and small details on the top surface.

>>2742311
Thanks, it was already set to 15%
I might slow the top down from 80 to 60 and hope it makes it look better. 80 was fine for the side. Already printing it at 240 which is the max recommended temp. Thanks for the help

Are modifiers broken in Orcaslider? I'm trying to use one to slow down only the top most surface of a print but the speed isn't changing no matter what value I enter

>>2742316

Reposting my question because I posted in the wrong thread

Opinions on Flashforge 5M? I want to upgrade from my Ender 3 V2 Neo and I heard 5M is like Bambu P1P but cheaper and not worse. Sounds too good to be true, 5M is half the price of P1 where I live.

>>2742339
Flashforge has such a mixed track record I don't really hold them in high regard. The Adventurer 5M is a smaller P1P clone with skinny little steel rods, and I personally hate the proprietary hotend they've got on there, but beyond that there are no big red flags. It's cheap AF for what it is, I'd think of it like an unenclosed K1. It's got a locked-down Klipper environment and forces you to use the Flashforge shit-tier slicer if you want to print over the network. 0/10 - avoid

Has anyone figured out a good bioplastic that would work as a filament that could be harvested from crops or animals? I know the answer is no, but I want to hear of any advances in r&d for this.

>>2742346
Fuck, anything comparable that's not Bambu-expensive? I want to step up into coreXY and high speed printing along with either enclosure or easy enclosure adaptation (I was planning to just fit plexi sheets to 5M's corners)
I was eyeing K1 at first, but I heard it also has issues.

>>2742276
>>2742292
I thought about buying a second air fryer and actually use it just for filament. People buy dehydrators but their temp range is nothing compared to air fryer and if you look around its 20-30 dollars more. Maybe I'll do a thorough cleaning after use if there's still an odor after letting it air out.

Thanks.

>>2742354
This is anecdotal, so, take it with a grain of salt.

My k1 has been doing fine so far, it appears I have the old hotend, but it has the new extruder, which is odd, but okay. If you are familiar with klipper I recommend rooting it, but that's personal opinion. With the holidays over, I am sure old inventory if already bought and there's new inventory that has most or all of the problems fixed.
>https://www.reddit.com/r/Creality/comments/15gt446/creality_k1_printing_102_read_this_might_helps/

Take a look at kingroon's corexy, if you haven't already, and still unsure.

is there some sort of setting or way of modelling to "anchor" ridges and bumps that sit ontop of what the slicer considers a top surface?
pic related is a cross section of what I mean. the red surface will be printed as top surface pattern. and I found that small features being printed on top will have poorer layer adhesion if the layer lines happen to cross

>>2742400
If I understand you correctly, the only way I got around that problem is to rotate the whole print. You'd have to change the orientation 30 degrees or so in order to anchor these small features

>>2742415
ah that's a shame. I'll fiddle around with different designs and see how the slicer behaves

>>2742260
I'd be more worried about the food contaminating my filament with oils. Those elements on the top of most air fryers won't get cleaned like the basket

>>2740860
just wanted to report I successfully dropped my first two hex nuts in a pause-print. watched the hotend like a hawk on the subsequent layer and everything worked out fine. gonna add some more tenths of top clearance next time but other than that very nice and snug fit

>>2742453
Oh no anon,
>pic related

Is the kind I have

>>2742476
ah I hit enter too soon. I meant also mention that I'll keep in mind to clean above as well.

Maybe if I completely wrap the spool in foil I reduce chances of the filament getting contaminated along with possibly filament not spreading any whatever bs it has, if it does.

Sup, Im trying to use this camera for timelapses and Obico and im wondering if there is any way to improve FPS?

>>2742476
I have an oven type like that too (for food) and it gets gross up top. It doesn't help that I don't clean it but still.

>>2742352
Ofc the reprap used bio plastics after all

>>2742352
PLA is made from starch, Cellulose Acetate is self explanatory, both have been made into filament already.

>>2742505
I checked mine and doesnt seem like its dirty, or barely? IDK I just use mine for tater tots mostly.

Has anyone here tried printing with carbon fiber filled nylon (PA-CF)? What am I in for?

>>2742528
your nozzles will, um, ever been to prison?

>>2742543
Even with coated hardened steel?

is there even any point to upgrading your hot end fan?

>>2742354
get a ratrig, you wont look back

>>2742400
You can get 99% isotropic strength if you adjust your filament settings properly (and get the right filament). Extrusion multiplier is the most important to tune, you should also print the filament close to its upper temperature limit. Your overhangs will be ass but sacrifices must be made in pursuit of perfection.

Either that or just redesign the part

>>2742544
no only brass

>>2742546
depends
there are too fans on the hot end, the part cooling fan and the head break fan.
The better your part cooling fan the faster you can solidify the plastic so you can print faster, have longer overhangs and use larger nozzles.
The heatbreak fan is important if you have an all-metal hotend otherwise you'll get melted filament stuck in the heatbreak and you'll never get it unblocked again.
If you've got a shitty chinese default hot end you'll never hit speeds or temps high enough to require a fan upgrade. Grow up and buy a mosquito hotend or phaetus rapido

>>2742354
>>2742550
>anything comparable that's not Bambu-expensive?
>get a ratrig

>want to build an enclosed printer to print ABS
>parts need to be printed in ABS
any way I can make this work without putting an enclosure on my bedslinger (I have PLA mods on it that won't last in the heat).
Are there any stiff and durable filaments that don't need an enclosure to print properly? They release fancy new filaments all the time right...

>>2742557
Your enclosure will reach max 60c unless you're making it out of 8 inch thick rockwool and soaking it for 50 hours.
PLA will be fine for temporary fixings.

>>2742557
you can try ASA, not as difficult to print as ABS while maintaining most of the properties
if you are looking to print voron parts you can also check their print it forward service, also plenty of people selling parts in ebay etsy and the like, saves you from the hassle for a few dozen bucks

Is there any way to check what's my average speed of a print in cura? I know there's this view with a gradient but this doesn't help if there are only 2 values plus I'm fucking color blind

Cardboard has to be the worst material for a filament spool. It absorbs water and then the filament that touches it goes as brittle as raw spaghetti. I wish Overture just sold refills so I can print my own bloody spools to use

>>2742603
The slicer will print at whatever speed you set it. If you set 10mm/s then it will print at 10mm/s constantly only slowing based on your acceleration, jerk and layer time restrictions.
If you've the speed based on flow it will limit based on flow.
Because of this, average speed is not a useful tool. Before you accuse me of not answering your question please understand your question is stupid and shows a lack of understanding about how the slicers work.
If I had a good resource available for you I would link it here but alas I cannot find one. Go on the "Machine Limits" tab in prusaslicer/superslicer and read the settings there.

>>2742613
Are you storing your filaments in a swamp?
The rest of us do not have these problems with cardboard spools.

>>2742638
I live in Britain so yes. Even when the spool has only gone from the packet to the AMS, then to a air tight box full of desiccant it goes spaghetti like. Test filament I removed and stuff in plastic spools doesn't have this issue

>>2742640
>AMS
Bambufag I should have guessed.
I also live in England and do not have this problem. Cardboard spools are fine. You are probably buying cheapo filament because you don't know any better. Unsurprising given your choice of machine.

>>2742613
Print replacement spools or print rings to snap onto the cardboard spools. I did the latter, no problems - though I had none in the first place.
>faggots at this one company still haven't sold me the parts I need for the feeding ports

>>2742613
Also you can easily get the filament onto a replacement spool.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNZgn_G2EuM

>>2742671
>Bambu-seether is an Englishman
Why is it always my countrymen who are the schizoposters? I had this problem when I had an Ender 3. I thought it would go away when it was kept in dryboxes in and out of use

>>2742673
Rings are already on to stop them from filling the AMS with dust. This is just cardboard being shitty

>>2742674
I've seen stuff like this and I'm tempted to go down this route. The cost is keeping me from going for it as I currently lack a working drill

>>2742682
>Working drill
Then just do it by hand. Throw the two spools onto the cardboard by toilet paper rolls or something, then just spin the filament on manually. t. rocket scientist.

>>2742686
>Hand rolling multiple 300m+ rolls of plastic
Fuck that

>>2742690
Yes? It will what, take 5 minutes at most. Stick them onto tree branches. This is /diy/.

>>2742690
Aren't there designs for drill driven respooling setups?

cardboard spools produce dust and are literally a cost cutting measure. this is why we have water bottles with caps that are half as tall as they used to be as well. being given less and being okay with it is being part of the problem.
>for the environment

>>2742700
Used to be able to keep a few water bottles in the back of my car, but these new bottles leak the moment it dips below 32°F.

I've never had a single issue stemming from a cardboard spool because I am not a retard.

>>2742712
You clearly are as you can't read

>>2742714
I wasn't replying to you or anyone else, I was just stating that I've never had an issue with cardboard spools. You seem agitated, maybe you should huff some styrene to calm down.

>>2742717
>works on my machine

>>2742729
>100% of 3D printing problems are skill issues

>>2742362
KLP1 has fare more hardware flaws than the M5.

>>2742546
If you're printing regularly and maybe even in unideal environments, like a kitchen, you may wanna do upgrade for reliability. In terms of actual performance there's little reason, although on the other end people like to quiet down their noctuas so much till clogging issues appear.

>>2742613
>>2742700
Where did the cardboard touch you? All jokes aside, be happy for an easy indicator on what brand to avoid.

>>2742352
Literally PLA

>>2742686
He's a bambu user
Dude will probably break a fingernail or crack his nail polish using a drill.
I doubt he even owns a socket set.

>>2742682
>i currently lack a working drill
You're on the wrong board.

>>2742796
Don't lend your tools to family members

>>2742789
schizo retard

>>2742789
I am a bambu user as well, I'm the one telling him this stuff.

do you guys build your own 3d printers

>>2742800
>>2742803
samefag

>>2742789
But I'm printing an organize for my wrenches with my Bambu before I move on to my socket sets.

>>2742813
inb4 random cope about me taking the time to try to trick you

>>2742789
But I'm printing an organize for my wrenches with my Bambu before I move on to my socket sets.

What are my options for 3d printing a large server case?

>>2742814
>>2742818
lol

>>2742822
Print it in pieces like a large puzzle. And hope it doesn't warp. Or cut all large flat pieces out of MDF (a 1200x800 board with 16mm thickness is $20 here) and print the rest.
Or build this: https://youtu.be/qnOci3cJapQ

>>2742818
Just google translated this, it says:
" I am a stupid westerner funding CCP "

>>2742814
>>2742818
this nigga livestreams his goon sesh directly to xi's computer lmao

>>2742822
Those big long plate overhangs will be more trouble than they're worth to print. Laser cut wood/acrylic/aluminium would be better and cheaper (once you factor in labour and pain in the arse).
I have a 500mm3 ratrig which is 7 times larger than the pathetic bambu shit that >>2742818 has and even I would consider getting it somewhere else although I could fit the plate onto my bed assuming its for a 19" rack.
In your case, make the frame at least an inch thick, cut it into pieces with the best interlocking joints space will afford then superglue the whole thing together. Consider threaded inserts for the fan holes.
All in you're probably looking at a 2 day print and 1kg of filament.
I would just like to reiterate that bambu printers suck.
Thank you.

I want to print a rack mount server case, what would be the best filament to print with?
I tried PLA+ from Sunlu but the case bents a bit. So I'm searching for a good alternative.

>>2742844
You're looking for something more rigid, something stiffer. Normal PLA, not + or Pro could be more rigid than some PLA+ varieties, but may be too brittle/weak for some things. The real problem is that PLA is one of the stiffest, most rigid materials you can print on a normal printer. It's really only beaten out by certain Nylon filaments, and most if not all fiber-reinforced filament. If you need something significantly more rigid than PLA, you'll probably be looking at something fiber-reinforced. Consider improving the design to be more rigid, rather than finding a different material.

Any recommendation for a cheap rod (like curtain rod) for a VR gunstock? Needs some stiffness in compression but otherwise fairly irrelevant. Weight isn't a big deal either so broomstick/dowel isn't disqualified.

The buttstock end and cups/blade are the 3d printed parts.

>>2742854
Consider just using pipe or conduit, it's cheap and easy to get. The cheapest 1" PVC pipe is <50c per foot at most hardware stores, stronger stuff is still <$1/ft, 1" ABS is a little more but may hold up better to handling/abuse while being less rigid. With plastic pipes: Cell-Core is weaksauce, Schedule 40 is normal, Schedule 80 is extra thicc.
If you want to add heft, EMT (Electrical Metallic Tube) is inexpensive. Aluminum or Steel pipe is just as easy find and just as easy to use, but much pricier.

>>2742500
Put printer on ethernet or if using rpi you can change the video format from "lots of screenshots" to real video. idk how since I use knockoff pi that doesn't support it.

>>2742242
Does ABL modify only the first layer or all layers. Ive had this question for a long time and never understood.

>>2742918
In Marlin, there's a fade out of variable height set in the firmware.

wow i love 2.5d printing

Got the bloatpad, now to calibrate it for the next 2 days, really regret not taking a picture of my settings before connecting it so I can note my min max configurations, it's all wiped after re installing marlin

>>2742981
oh my fucking god, i have to download ubuntu in a virtual machine and edit the firmware that way, my body fat% is too low to do all this, all this effort so i dont have to use a micro sd card....

>>2742242
What are some signs you received a fucked mainboard from China? Firmware flashes, but I can't get anything at all to work. I'm starting to suspect that I got a binned/reworked board that was already fucked.

>>2742998
Get your refund.

>>2743031
That won't happen. Part was ordered months ago. Only just now had the chance to use it.

>>2742242
Bros what else the best value reliable 3D printer out there?

I already have a Creality Ender 3, but the shit requires too much levelling and adjusting. I just want to design and print in peace.

What do I buy? Is it Bambu A1?

>>2743143
>just want to design and print in peace.
Any of the latest box 3d printers, new Bambu labs bed slingers, or a prusia.

Sometimes when I swap filament (I only use PLA) to another color there will be this blob of previous filament that's big enough to ruin the print (the nozzle catches the piled up filament and it causes it to lose adhesion to bed). What's the issue here? Is this common? It happens very randomly, no matter the temperature etc.

I cant 3d print because this little piece is missing

>>2743325
Failure to purge filament perhaps?

should i print at the lowest temp that my filament will print at? im having issues with adhesion and print curling upwards

>>2743332
>should i print at the lowest temp that my filament will print at?
Hell no.

>>2743325
before printing with a new color I run filament through until the entire previous color has disappeared and switched to the new one

>>2743332
>print at lowest temp
>Have problems
>Should I continue??
Dude.

>>2743338
its printing at the median temp of 205

>>2743332
Higher temps provide more strength but it will be prone to stringing, from what I've read lower temps give better dimensional accuracy, but I've managed to maintain dimensional accuracy in highers temps by tweaking flow rate. What material do you use and at what temp?
Also
>im having issues with adhesion and print curling upwards
Maybe bed is too hot? Or maybe you have an issue with the bed itself (wrong type of material, people recommend PEI) or leveling
>>2743330
>>2743337
I only switch the spool and hit print, the color changes quickly during printing the test strip or the brim. Sometimes I found blobs of previous filament even hours into a new spool. Nozzle shouldn't be worn out already since I've got the printed like 2 months ago

>>2743340
my bed is a piece of shit, i have a new glass bed coming in from amazon soon

>>2743344
>glass bed
ngmi

>>2743344
I mean as a quick fix you could try printing things with a brim if you haven't tried it before. Also, if you experimented with shit like hair spray or glue (like I did), throw it out and scrub your bed clean with dish soap.

>>2743325
Probably globs of filament getting stuck to the side of the nozzle. Install a brush for wipe moves maybe? Pic related.

>>2743328
It's a 3d printer hydraulic fitting, they're a dollar each on alibay. There's two common sizes. You should have a couple of them on standby, same for T nuts and screws and other stuff.

>>2743357
after seeing bambu printers auto clean their heads, i really want to add a brush to my ender

>>2743340
what temp do you think is good for PLA? its at 60 right now

>>2743376
With PLA my bed is at 60 as well, must be something else in your case if there is too much warping

>>2743357
Can i get it at the hardware store desu?
I already ordered that shit but i dont want to wait another 2-3 days
Ive tried getting creative and solving it with hot glue etc. But nothing works. If i had more money id just buy a new 3d printer desu.

I love throwing shit together from parts on hand. Felt like making pistol shaped laser. Have some cheap red lasers on hand, 16350 pulled from disposable ecig, generic tp4056 module, finglai switch, moved the microusb port to the bottom of the grip. Designed it last night before bed, printed everything overnight, put it together this morning.

>>2743412

>>2743412
>>2743414
3D printed Gun!
ban mods fast!

>>2743412
>>2743414
finally some common sense gun control

>>2743418
It's too late, I already shot this cat with it, several times.

>>2743379
no
lmao

>>2743412
>not modifying the tp4056 so it charges from a better usb port instead
by that i mean usb b

>try to slice some mini stls a friend sent me in cura
>they're full of shit like this
I've tried every combination of adaptive layers, thin walls, and inclusive slicing tolerance, but it's always the same. Anybody got any tips?

>>2743483
Post a close up of a horn on the STL file. Either cura is being shitty or your STL file is a bit broken. I hear Prusa/Orca/etc. is better at using strangely made STLs.

>>2743508
Prusa does it also, so I'm guessing orca will too. This is just one example. It does it with fingers and strands of hair and such as well.

>>2743548
rightclick the model in prusa/orca and click "fix model" to see if that does anything

>>2741165
>>2741165
>>2741165
>>2741165

>>2743598
Mental disability.

>>2743598
Is he trying to print hot glue? What the fuck.

So i found out about pic rel IR sensor, which seems to be much more friendly to just tuck onto my printhead case than designing around a bltouch. Yet no one's using it. Why?

>>2743612
No idea, what's the effective precision and accuracy? I doubt it's less than 100µm, or even 500µm.

BAnon back here, hope you didn't miss me
>>2743143
>I already have a Creality Ender 3, but the shit requires too much levelling and adjusting. I just want to design and print in peace.
Get the harder yellow springs and forget about leveling. Also some detents on the knobs so they don't creep out of setting.

>>2743548
>>2743483
Enable the "print thin walls" setting or use 0.2mm horizontal expansion

>>2743173
Which is the best cheapest latest one?

>>2743657
What the fuck is detents on the knob means?

>>2742986
You have four options, combinable:
* get it DIY It Yourself
* get a Prusa
* get your whining piehole shut
* get out of /diy/
git

>>2743662
>What the fuck is detents on the knob means?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203563

>>2743661
>best
Prusa
>cheapest
Ender 3v2 and some elbow grease
>both
Depends on your budget and your definition of best and peace

>>2743657
5µm on metal, 22µm on glass. Doesn't seem to be the problem. Aus3D's version even seems to bring it down to 3µm on metal, 6µm on glass.

>>2743668
Ate you sure you answered to the right comment? Just a heads up so you remember loop the intended anon in

>>2743617
>>2743668

>>2743669
Dunno how i messed that up, but thanks nonetheless.

>>2743666
I got Ender 3v2 and its shit

how superior is prusa? I rem seeing it work flawlessly but the shit is expensive. Do they do sales?

>>2743672
>Josef Prusa
>Sales
Lmao. Wait till you hear about the waiting list.

>>2743665
What is the purpose of the locks? you tell me that the leveller knobs are always loose?

>>2743661
Ender 3 V3 SE is kinda decent, though it hasn't really been out long enough to say if there's any long-term reliability issues.

There's also that Bambu bedslinger, it's not that expensive but it is a bit of a botnet.

>>2743672
You could consider a Prusa clone like a Sovol, but it's two steps forwards one step backwards, their build quality is back to the common chinese standard.

>>2743674
>waiting list
what

>>2743676
I really enjoy the creality 3v2 due to its open source and universal compatibility.

Is there any other printer like this but more reliable?

I even have the BLT touch and the shit still runs into problems

>extruder breaks on making complicated geometry on a 1 day print (has to start again)
>nozzle sometime produces blobs on the bed then accumulates and fucks the whole print (yes it was extruder calibrated perfectly)
>Need to use glue on bed all the time

Other than that its okay

I'm going to print an enclosure for a PCB and I want to include vibration-resistant mounts for the board. I know just adding rubber washers or whatever is the way to go, but I want to try incorporating some TPU inside a PLA print. I don't have a dual-filament printer but I could still do the pause-insert-continue trick on some captive TPU pieces. Don't suppose there will be any issues with the PLA printing atop TPU, will there? I'd probably make the TPU part slightly shorter than the hole (0.5mm or so) so the nozzle isn't dragging through any of the TPU part, but maybe I should glue it down too. Anyone done this before?

>>2743678
>waiting list
>what
They still got lead times of 5weeks and more. Not really a secret either..

>>2743679
I hate to be this guy, but your idea is terrible, especially if your idea is to replace a readily available molded part.
That said, if you're quick about it and rake up PLA temps to 240 you may fuse it together.

Bros is upgrading or using the hotend fix a meme?

I want to fix the fucking clogging on my nozzle

>>2742981
>>2742986
to configure and compile marlin? You can do that in windows CS with plugins. Australian youtube guy has some videos on it I think. And for the love of god just download a preconfig for your printer from github and re-compile it if you want to adjust something to your liking (and check for thermal runaway)

>>2743687
I tried upgrading just the heatbreak (from stock to bimetallic) on an ender 3 a few threads back. it resulted in nothing but clogging (using ABS). I've not looked into it any further. so, don't just buy any hotend

>>2743719
Sounds familiar, also experienced constant clogging after switching from lined to bitmetal. I noticed quite some slipping without screws, so i took some arctic paste i had laying around and gave the heatbreak a good coating to make sure contact is there. Basically solved all my issues, your experience may differ.

So I'm gonna print pic rel, the guide tells me to change wall count from 2 to 8, but the infill is already set to 100%. What's the point of changing the wall count?

>>2743799
Strength. You should read more on the subject instead of asking questions that have already been answered. There are tons of resources out there in the category you're exploring.

>>2743676
>Ender 3 V3 SE is kinda decent, though it hasn't really been out long enough to say if there's any long-term reliability issues.
I've been using it as my first ever printer and so far there is only one problem I wasn't able to solve permanently (random blobs of filament that cause the loss of bed adhesion after changing to a new spool-it's rare but I'm not sure what's the cause).
Other than that I had some minor issues, but they were rather connected to me not knowing shit about 3d printing

>>2743801
What's the point of asking about anything if there are sources out there? There are multiple people in each thread asking what machine they should get, should they also read more on the subject because there are tons of resources outside this thread?
I asked here because it's easier

>>2743807
>should they also read more on the subject because there are tons of resources outside this thread?
Yes.

>>2743807
Yes, they should, those people rarely apply any effort to the process at all, then they bitch and moan when they get exactly what they were told they'd be getting.

>>2743799
how dimensionally accurate are your prints with 100% infill? I suppose a part like that would need to be quite accurate

>>2743807
>should they also read more on the subject because there are tons of resources outside this thread?
Fuck yes they should, how is this a question?

>>2743799
are you nuts?
Infill provides ZERO strength bonus outside of maybe compressive strength and helps disperse force over a wall.
Wall count is where you get strength from. It should be at least 6 (2mm) where possible. Never rely on infill for anything other than force dispersion and roof printing support.

>>2743799
>>2743824
If you want to better understand this, I highly recommend pouring over CNCKitchen and Hoffman Tactical, their content on Youtube is absolutely loaded with valuable information that can help you understand this at a deeper level.

>>2743830
fuck you nigger I don't need education from some shitty youtubers

>>2743831
Enjoy your magazine asplode retard.

>>2743831
You obviously do.

>>2743816
>>2743818
>>2743822
>>2743824
How the fuck was I supposed to know this was a thing if I hadn't asked? I didn't even need the exact information, just a direction where to look instead of "go read up on that".
>>2743830
Thanks, I've just found cnc kitchen a second ago, will check this out

>>2743830

>>2743838
you're supposed to spend 300 hours reading tutorials on the internet before printing anything.
Too many bambu yuppies on this planet right now. This industry was better before it was mainstream.

>>2743838
Lurk Moar
It's not just fun to say and insulting to newfags, it's genuine advice. Sitting and reading instead of asking questions in hopes of being spoon-fed. You could've googled your question, but you didn't. If you had, you'd have seen several results from (gasp) reddit.com/r/fosscad, where people have asked the same question in one form or another over, and over, and over again. You could have had your answer all on your own, but instead you lazily blurted out the question without trying to find the answer yourself. You're like a baby.

>>2743830 this
>>2743831
just do what this guy says if you want to print these kinds of things
https://hoffmantactical.com/learn/

>>2743843
Then next time don't answer/help if it bothers you so much, this will save both you and me so much time. I quickly googled and couldn't find much, asked here and then went back to searching
>>2743846
Thanks, it seems to be specific about what I'm doing currently, will check it out

>>2743838
>How the fuck was I supposed to know this was a thing if I hadn't asked?
well you have the information now so it worked as intended didn't it?

>>2743841
his faggy intro catchphrase combined with that punchable face makes me want to commit warcrimes
t. kraut

>>2743842
Nothing wrong with having a printer that just works™, retards will be caught in the net of anything that is more convenient.

>>2743851
Yes, but I wouldn't get the info just by lurking. It took fucking 6 posts before I got what I needed, these niggers wasted their time just to tell me to fuck off and then got angry about it

>>2743852
>his faggy intro catchphrase
there is worse
>>2743854
will you stop whining already? you can always make a reddit account

>>2743856
>will you stop whining already?
No

>>2743856
that soiboi is a close second for me

>>2743850
Don't let the people here break your heart. They're kind but they have a certain way of communicating which can seem a little brash to those not used to it.
Good luck on your 3d printing adventures my friend :-)

>>2743853

Why won't Cura slice my model? It keeps getting hung up at 50%.

>>2743886
Does it work if you leave it overnight?
If you have windows 10 you can right click on the stl and click 3d print then Import. It will flag up any mesh errors and auto repair them.
Also you could have made an effort to bevel the edges on your model.

>>2743890
I suppose I could try leaving it overnight. It slices just fine in an old version of Cura, but my current printer's settings are in 5.1.1, which spikes my CPU usage to max and makes zero progress. I've let it try for an hour.
And I didn't bother beveling this piece because it's a simple spacer.

Ok so I've looked at sources anons provided me with and I seem to understand it a little better, but after checking cura I'm quite puzzled. The fgc9's pdf mentioned wall count only in the section about magazines. In cura I switched wall count from 2 to 8 for a given part and the print time went down significantly and supposedly it will be stronger.
Is there any downside going with 100% walls vs 100% infill if the part is solid?

>>2743906
Any time plastic is layered on top of or next to each other that bond will be weak. When you print a continuous line of filament, that line will be strong because it's a continuous extrusion.
The wall lines all flow in one direction around the walls of the object so you're getting a nice strong shape of continuous plastic. Infill is layered all in one direction so it's strong in that 1 direction but that direction does not flow around the walls. so you end up with an overall weaker part.
Infill exists only to give support to the roofs. Keep it at 15% unless you want to waste plastic for no reason.

>>2743908
Ok I kinda fucked up a little and only now did I realize it, so let me rephrase.
Is there any reason not to go with only walls if I want to maximize the strength of a solid part?

>>2743911
You can get bulging from 100% infill unless your printer is calibrated very well. That is a cosmetic and fitment issue only.
infill will add little extra strength but apart from what's mentioned above there are no real drawbacks other than increased weight for little gain.
You are better off setting the wall count to 9999. That will fill your part 100% solid and will do so using walls which will give you better overall strength.
If you really want strength and you're willing to go all out then watch some videos on baking your part in salt to increase layer adhesion.

>>2743915
Oh ok, this makes sense now, it just seems weird they haven't mentioned it in the guide if it was made for retards like me.
Will go with only walls and see how dimensionally accurate it will be, big thanks

>>2743670
You're welcome anon, I ilyvm you very much
>>2743672
>I got Ender 3v2 and its shit
No shit sherlock. You're missing the elbow grease.
>how superior is prusa? I rem seeing it work flawlessly
Yes
>but the shit is expensive
Depends on how much your elbow grease is worth
>>2743675
They can crawl out of position with the vibrations of the printer. You can make your own knobs with nylon locknuts or just print those locks that don't let them crawl out of position while being flexible enough to adjust it if you need it.
>>2743676
>Ender 3 V3 SE
There's a 3v3 already? My fuck I've been in the dark for a while
>>2743678
>Is there any other printer like this but more reliable?
Prusa. Anything in between is a compromise where you will have to spend BOTH elbow grease and money. With Creality and Prusa, it's either only elbow grease or only money.
>>2743687
>upgrading hotend
Sure, knock yourself out, just be sure to put some connectors in the hotend end of the cables so you can switch back if you need it. XT30 or just some plain old spade connectors should do the trick. Remember to solder everything, don't just crimp them.
>>2743719
>>2743690
>clogging bimetal heatbreak
Just be careful when pulling the filament out and either do it cold or at 120°C in one quick pull. Drawing it out hot and slow results in blobs that get quickly solid inside the disipator section of the heatbreak.
>>2743799
Walls are printed parallel to the outside surface of the print and provide compressive strength in all directions and tensile strength parallel to the layers. They are laid one next to the other so intra-layer adhesion between each wall line is stronger.
Infill, unless overextruded and squished, will not adhere strongly to the walls, resulting in compressive strength with its bare bulk but not contributing to tensile strength.

>>2743906
>>2743807
>I asked here because it's easier
Be ready to get pointed in the right direction and don't expect to get everything spoonfed. In this particular case, look into: "material anisotropy in 3D printing".

>>2743663
>>2743690
i dont know why creality is telling me to do all this, i can configure my printer through the klipper web page

>>2743926
>>2743928
Now that that's out of the way
>>2743657
>BAnon back here
Found out that I had wrongly fucked up the step calibration for EVERY axis after doing a beautiful 9h30m print that's completely out of spec. Spent the entire morning recalibrating it and, of course, sent the whole buildplate again instead of trying with individual pieces. We'll find out in a few hours.

>>2743931
Indeed. That's part of the elbow grease.

>>2743932
that print literally does not need a brim

>>2743940
Yeah, I forgot to uncheck it. Wanna know the best part? After recalibrating everything I just reprinted the very same gcode file, so the brim stays. Yes, I am indeed that stupid.

>>2743682
Doesn't matter if it's fused together. The part just has to be held captive with a through-shaft.

>>2743906
>>2743908
Isn't the downside of all walls that you don't get good tensile strength if something tries to pull the walls apart? Like it's still probably better than the layer-by-layer tensile strength, but 100% infill will do alternating directions that grip better. I'd always want a small amount of infill between outer and inner walls.

>>2742242
What kind of micro controller do I need to build a macro 3×3 macro pad with a rotary knob.

I own;
>a 3d printer
>brown switches
>tons of keykaps
>wires
>solder
>solder iron
>Flux
>random hardware such as little screws and bolts
>a 10 dollar coupon to microcenter

>>2743979
If you have to ask, an Arduino Nano and some help from the frens at >>>/diy/ohm/ will get you started

Okay I need some opinions: I live in a small room, essentially 15 ft x 15 ft. I have an FDM 3d printer in the same room, but it's fine. I do need a water diffuser for medical reasons. Do you think a tiny one that holds no more than 100 mls is going to fuck shit up? The thing is going to be maybe 3-4 ft away from the 3d printer. Pic related.

What's a good solvent for PLA+? I'm afraid I ruined my hotend.

>>2744004
50/50 bleach and ammonia should do the trick

>>2743979
rp2040 like baldy does in that video

>>2744009
Just tried it. It tasted like strawberries.
Fukkin' delicious.

>>2744004
Acetone or ethyl acetate. Nail polish remover if you're in a pinch. May depend on the "+" of the PLA+. YMMV.
>>2744009
I said polish remover, not Polish remover

>>2743993
>small room, essentially 15 ft x 15 ft. I have an FDM 3d printer in the same room, but it's fine. I do need a water diffuser for medical reasons
It won't fuck up the prints, but make dead sure to keep your filament spools vacuum sealed in their bags and dry them regularly. Get some silica gel in bulk and put half a cup in each bag. Dry the silica gel periodically in the oven in low (by itself in a dedicated pyrex or ceramic bowl, not in the bags, dummy). Your definition of "periodically" WILL vary.

>>2744034
I think that just might be a good idea because I live like 3 blocks from the beach and NYC is humid as shit. Thanks for the advice kind anon.

Does anyone here have any of the Ender 5 variants? I have an Ender 5 pro, and am considering adding another Z axis screw for bed stability. There's a ton of recommended mods but for right now I need some kind of enclosure for heat, it's -10 where I'm at. What's a good cheap enclosure I can snag form ali or amazon?

>>2744052
>2 guide-rods and a screw, bed is fully cantilevered
That's funky.
If you have an auto bed levelling probe (recommended), you might want to go for belts instead of screws. Less backlash, you don't have to worry about chinky screws coming wonky, nor do you have to worry about the constant axial load on the stepper motor. It will lose its Z reference each time it powers off, but having a probe makes it easy to get back in line.

In the style of modern coreXY printers, I'd want to put an additional belt/screw at each of the front two corners, keeping one at the back-middle. If you use 3 independant steppers, this will allow you to actually skew the board to flatness, though this would require upgrading the main board. There is zero point in having multiple steppers running off the same stepper driver, you're better off just putting a synchronisation belt between the screws/belts.
For two screws/belts, would you have the screws at opposing two corners, and guide rods at the other two corners? This feels like the most stable way, without going for additional guide rods.

>a good cheap enclosure
Just buy some aluminium-coated insulation board, cut it to size, and screw it together with some 3D printed corner brackets.

>>2744046
>beach
>nyc
A room humidifier will be the least of your air humidity problems kek. You'll definitively need those tips, glad they help.

>inb4 mobilefag

i do most of my modeling on PC with freecad. what's the best/most well supported android CAD program that *isn't* fusion or solidworks? if that means tinkercad so be it, i have all the time in the world to fuck with my designs.

i work nights running an OD grinder. it's basically a slow motion action replay of watching paint dry. i have a tablet in the mail for telegram and youtube/amazon so i have something to watch at work, just like the other guys on shift, but i want to do something semi-productive and make some 3d models. I'm cooped up for 10h a night, so i have time, and will learn whatever you recommend.

the tablet i ordered has a keyboard and stylus, so if those are required for some reason i have them

i feel like i'm going insane i could've sworn cura had some tool that let you divide objects with planes and shit but now i can't see it. i used to use it to test fitting
am i making this up?

>>2744136
and i thought you could hide models that you split am i having a god damns troke?

>>2744139
nevermind i forgot i used prusaslicer

>>2744140
Is Prusaslicer the one that can generate pegs to attach parts?

>>2744157
yes it'll peg you
i have one thing i printed with pegs but they don't fit. i'm just going to buy a 300 x 300 printer

Bros wtf is wrong with my reality ender 3v2?

When I print the nozzle always prints extra filament or has massive stringing that accumulates and fucked up my print. Is there any fix? Yes. I extruded calibrated it already

>>2744170
how do you know it's extruding extra filament and it's not a bed leveling issue

>>2744170
You brought an ender. That's the problem.

>>2744177
>bambu fag whose printer turned itself on and burned his house down in the middle of the night

>>2744181
Does it actually burn the house?

>>2744171
I got BLT Touch

do you guys leave your klipper device on at all times? seems pretty annoying to hit two power switches everytime i want to print something

>>2744183
The power switch capable powerstrip is staring back at you with it's empty sockets. Faces of utter disbelief of your stupidity.

>>2744183
my klipper device is fed off my printer PSUs, vorons are great fun

Can anyone guess how well this cantilevered roof printed? The angle is about 6 degrees.

>>2744204
very well, for like 10 layers, then spaghetti

>>2744204
>>2744206
It spaghettied immediately after starting the roof. But the top printed fine, so I may just cut away at it and use it as-is. Doesn't need to be structural.

>>2744204
Hmm, the fact that I can see cyan infill between the blue perimeters means it was trying to print those blue perimeters in mid-air. I should ensure that angled cantilevers are made such that the blue perimeters overlap from layer to layer. It spaghettied a bit on a different 14 degree overhang, but not so much it dipped more than a millimetre below.

>>2744204
>>2744207
Why didn't you print it the other way round/on top?

To lift up the mood a bit; i printed some washers for my heatsink fan. Subjectively reduced noise by 10dB, especially in the higher frequencies. Pretty happy with it.

the people at the home improvement store wouldnt sell me a concrete slab ):
they arent sold during the winter even though its in stock, they are kept outside and they are all frozen together

how unoptimal is it that my probe inset is 34mm on a 230 bed, i could probably get it smaller with some printer tweaks, or is it not worth the effort

>>2743422
>>2743414
>>2743412
very interesting, now do it with a nubm08 XD, got the plans for us and how the internals are. Its easy to transform for something like nubm08. Also how big is it?

First time I have to deal with spaghetti, could this have happened because of low ambient temperature? I'm printing at 205c

>>2744183
Klipper on raspberry pi that's always on, printer turned on with tasmota flashed wifi plug.

>>2744276
I'm so hungry bros.

Am I retarded or didn't there used to be a decent selection of (non expensive as fuck industrial grade) acetone vapor polishers for sale out there? if there was, why is there fuck all now?

>>2744089
https://www.autodesk.com/products/autocad-web

Either that or hand write the gcode yourself in the android text editor.

>>2744276
There are any number of reasons for spaghetti
Often your extruder will jam for a few layers and after it unjams itself you will get that.
Sometimes you will get layer shifts, especially on a bed slinger.
Sometimes your model will move while printing. Especially on a bed slinger.
Sometimes even the print bed can shift during printing. Especially on a bed slinger.
I've seen the nozzle crash into the model and skip steps before causing layer shifting and then spaghetti. This happened on a bed slinger.
I have had the bed hit a wall once that caused it to skip steps and then spaghetti. That was on a bed slinger.
I've had a model fall over while printing. That was on a bed slinger.

>>2744340
>I've had a model fall over while printing. That was on a bed slinger.
I had a model fall over once as well. That sucked. Was many hours of tinkering with that thing.

>>2744357
was it on a bed slinger?

>>2743951
>>2743932
Now it's in-spec. There's some squishing resulting in horizontal expansion but that's nothing that elbow grease and sanding paper won't fix.

>>2743932
>>2744361
what filament type is that? why all the brims?

>>2744363
>why all the brims?
Because I'm a retard
>what filament type is that?
Nicieza y Taverna Hermanos Grilon 3 Ingeo PLA, in black, made in Argentina
>inb4 why in the name of fuck are you using Argentine plastics? Is it some niche specialist stuff?
It's just some run-of-the-mill PLA. I'm from Buenos Aires (and I say, kill'em all!)

>>2744276
when it moves from support to model or back and catches/ knocks something over

>>2744207
literally just turn it around?
the slopes even look designed to be printed that way?

>>2744365
https://i.4cdn.org/wsg/1705083047956085.webm

>>2744378
Hopefully the issue can be settled diplomatically in the future without the PM getting so mad about getting her ass kicked by colimbas misioneros from the literal jungle that she has to threaten nuclear war and bring in the Royal Navy for two clumps of Antarctic clay. It would be very, very nice for the Kelpers to have access to supplies and services from the Patagonian mainland instead of having to wait and pay for transatlantic shipping and the occasional flight from Britbongistan.
But that's an issue to talk civilly in >>>/pol/ or >>>/int/ .

>>2744379
we did it for the penguins retard
can't let you argies anywhere near them

>1 hour into a 4 hour minimum print
>Forgot to enable supports
At least I caught it at 1 hour instead of 3 hours. Also now I have a very strong piece of plastic to hit things with.

>>2744381
I can't remember a specific "penguins retard" involved in the Malvinas war. There are plenty of penguins in mainland Argentina and Tierra del Fuego, so there may be some or several particularly ardent penguin enthusiasts, and I wouldn't be surprised if there were one or two amongst the Kelpers.

>>2744392
nobody uses the slicer supports.
You always make your own or redesign the item to not use supports.
If you're printing figurines please kys; no offense

why the fuck did it print like this? I turned off the cooling for this to increase strength, but if the issue is not enough cooling then why is it fucked up only in Y direction?

>>2744443
Ok, I just realized it's because of slope which isn't present for the direction that printed well

>>2744443
It is fucked in the overhangs, which just happen to be in the Y direction. Try, in Cura:
* ensuring "wall printing order" is "inside to outside"
* slowing "outer wall speed"
* slowing "overhanging wall speed"

>>2744443
>I turned off the cooling for this to increase strength
lol
don't do that, maybe you'll get better results. It seems like cooling is your only real problem here.

>>2744444
waste of quints

>>2744445
>>2744447
Yeah, I've turned fans to 50% and it prints just fine now. Previous parts I did print with fans off didn't have this issue, but they probably had no overhangs
>>2744456
good

>>2744462
never print with the fans off, there's no reason to do so other than the 1st layer. If you want more layer adhesion up the nozzle temp and get a heated enclosure.
Rookie move, rookie.

>>2744030
>Acetone
It was worth a shot but that and wire brushes couldn't get it clean.
Time to upgrade the hotend and try out carbon fiber.

>>2744483
Try ethyl acetate before giving up. In a well-ventilated area.

>>2744370
Not going to work.I'm just going to increase the angle.

>>2744517
If there's nothing under that, increase the angle to 45°

>>2744517
aside from those rail stlots on the far right bottom I don't see any reason not to put this down on its face. then the large cutout doesn't need supports either. just make the rail slots come in at a 45-50° angle and tweak the clearence until they act the same as straight ones

>>2744527
Set them to 20°, I think it will be mostly fine.

>>2744533
Oh that makes more sense than what I was thinking. I just did pic related. Making the slot at the front with 45° angles would be pretty doable, and I could make the front of the screw holes conical.

Well it's already printing now, we'll see.

>>2744541
Would you mind showing the backside?

>>2744483
Acetone and Isopropyl are not solvents to PLA, so will do nothing to dissolve a blob.
Ethyl Acetate, MEK, THF and Dichloromethane are all PLA solvents, but most are pretty nasty to handle, controlled substances that are tricky to acquire, or both. Plus, if the cost of acquiring the solvent, chem gauntlets, and disposal of the contaminated solvent, are more than a replacement, just replace the fucking thing.

Much easier just to heat the hotend up to melt the PLA off if you really want to try and recover it.

>>2744430
Does the average Argie actually care about the Falklands?

>>2744557
Unironically yes.

>>2744556
>disposal of the contaminated solvent
nigga just pour it down the drain

>>2744557
Not really in day to day life. There's way, way more pressing issues than a few clumps of clay in the middle of the antarctic ocean.

>>2744560
Why though? There's literally nothing there but some sheep and Brits. Its not going to fix any problems

I think its even weirder a lot of Euro countries push for the UK to """"give them back"""" when all but 3 people who live there don't want to be Argentinian

>>2744563
They were being exploited be an old and shitty arrangement with the Brits from when they were actually a valid superpower back in the 19th century. They refuse vehemently to let that go, and when the people sought to assert themselves the Brits responded violently. They just couldn't let go of these little islands 8,000 miles away, because of course they're a big grand and respected empire, couldn't possibly stand to allow some people their independence when the majority of the people want it. It was tyrannical, fascist, oppressive bullshit.

>>2744565
Its not about the islands though is it. Its about the people on them. The right to self determination is an integral human right and no amount of crying from Argentina or its supporters is going to change that
The Faroe Islands are far closer to the UK than Denmark but Brits don't cry about them

If I have to print a piece like this in this orientation instead of doing it flat or using the left/right side as the bottom (which is unavoidable for me here) is there anything I can do when slicing to get the highlighted flat bottom surface to be the same tolerance as its counterpart on the top? I don't need it to be as pretty as the top of course, I just need it to not sag down enough to affect tolerances after the supports are shaved off.

>>2744570
Literally using a support, and make sure you have enabled a support roof. Increase the support roof density if you have issues.

went to canada computers and saw an e3 s1 for like 350 CAD, i feel like a dumbass now because i bought my e3 v2 for like 330 cad when it came out and spent probably 150 dollars more on upgrades that the s1 already has, but i guess thats consumer electronics for you

>>2744585
when i bought the e3v2, it was the lowest price around and this store didnt really carry printers yet so these kind of insane deals werent around

>>2744487
>>2744556
Cool. I can ventilate the room pretty easily.
>controlled substances that are tricky to acquire
Klean Strip sells pure ethyl acetate as "MEK substitute," according to their MSDS pages.
But yeah, you're right. My state is retarded and I'd have to drive out of state to buy some.

>>2744554
what, you mean this perfectly flat face?

>>2744567
>The right to self determination is an integral human right
lmao tell that to the breakaway republics of ukraine

why did you guys recommend the bgm extruder? I had to set the extruder backwards so the tube wouldn't come out of that pos.

i've been using an ender 3 pro that i got for $100 for a couple of years and it works pretty well but needs a lot of tinkering and i don't have the time anymore so i'm looking to upgrade. the most important features i know i want are automatic bed leveling, bigger print space, and firmwire that works with octopi. an enclosure would be nice but then it would be $700 for a k1 max and i'm only look to spend $300-$400
can anyone say if they like their ender-3 s1 or the ender 5 plus?

>>2744600
That perfectly flat surface seems perfect for laying it on the bed. Angle the "lower" (left in your picture) side of the side brackets so they have a 45% slope like the upper side so you don't need supports if you can.

>>2744603
Put elbow grease into your ender 3 or upgrade to a Prusa.
t. Ender 3 owner.

>>2744605
how bout you learn to read nigga

>>2744608
Did I fucking stutter.

>>2744609
probably when you were trying to sound out the words with your finger under them ya fucking retard

>>2744610
You can't even spell "firmware", be careful when throwing around words like "retard" and "negro".

>>2744611
ya okay retard negro

>>2744613
Anyways.
>>2744603
You will always need a lot of tinkering with Creality. If you do not have time to tinker anymore, upgrade to a Prusa. Anything else from Creality, or anything else lower than a Prusa, will only cost you more time. If you don't have money for a Prusa, just improve your existing Ender 3 pro and add BLTouch, reflash or replace the board, build an enclosure, and try and move stuff around to get a larger print space. If you don't have the money to do that, well, you should have bought a Prusa from the start.
Sincerely, an Ender 3 owner.

>>2744614
are the extender kits and bltouch reliable?

>>2744619
Yes. Even with BLTouch, you're using stuff that Creality would have used anyways.

>>2744619
CR Touch (Creality's version) is better than BL Touch
You could always get the Bambu bedslinger or wait for a sale on the K1. They got pretty big discounts over black friday

Would it be a good idea to use a 1mm nozzle if I only want to print big parts
T.ender 3 masochist

i have ascended to klipper

>>2744541
Ok 20° still has some spaghetti, but it's good enough that I'm keeping it. 36° or more for future prints though, ideally 45.

>>2744604
Yes I am retarded for not seeing that.

>>2744183
Pic related is my torrent box hosting klipper and I added all my printers and their tasmota wifi plugs.

Because in mainsail if you have power option you can see other printers, however in fluidd you can. My kp3s pro I put a mango pi (h616 version) inside, with fluidd and it's able to see the other printers. So I may change all my printers to fluidd so I can remove mainsail/klipper off of my torrent box.

>>2744665
I am fucking retarded and forgot the pic.

>>2744619
Like this anon said here >>2744635

CRTouch is better. BLtouch has this optical sensor that doesn't trigger half of the time anyways, there's a reason why they sell pack of bltouch probes on amazon, those probes break too often.

While CR-Touch uses a beefier probe (metal) and bigger optical sensor. Uses a push-pull solenoid to extend/retract the probe.

>>2744600
Aaand here's the finished result. It's a limit-switch holder for my Snapmaker. It adds another Z limit switch in parallel with the one inside the axis for the purpose of touching off drill and router bits. The axis plugs directly into the 6P6C socket, and a CAT3 cable comes out the side to plug into the main board. I made such a limit switch for my ender 3, and it worked great even with very delicate carbide PCB drills, though that printer's bed ultimately wasn't rigid enough for PCB drilling.

>>2744650
this shit is stupid fast, i get the feeling that im not supposed to leave these values at the max default, i sent the print to 120mm/s in cura but it is go much faster than that and it did NOT follow the initial layer speed of 25mm/s, it was full speed instantly so i had to restart it 3 times and set the speed to 70% on the printer so that it would actually stick. its clear it doesnt follow all cura settings, not sure what i did wrong

>>2744601
russians aren't human

>>2744650
so how fast is your benchy with the sonicpad?

>>2742242
is the $39.00 a kg 3D-Fuel filament worth it or snake oil hog wash? are any of these boutique filaments worth it?

>>2744644
Yes but upgrade the hotend. And most probably you'll need a mounting adapter.
Running high flow rates (in milligrams per second or filament millimeters per second, not line length per second) though a hotend will result in the plastic not reaching temperature. I the best case you get stuttering or a stop and a failed print, maybe extruder skips and underextrusion. In the worst case, you fuck up the extruder motor and you get a clogged heatbreak and nozzle.
The Ender 3 vanilla hotend won't manage to feed a 1mm nozzle fast enough to compete with a 0.4mm nozzle, you'll have to slow down to the same feedrate. Get a V6 hotend and an adapter.

>>2744764
Try again..

>>2744764
You can find plenty of other sources of 3D850 and 3D870 PLA for significantly less than 3DFuel. It's good filament, great really, but it's overpriced as fuck just like Prusament and Protopasta. Protopasta is expensive but at least they do interesting stuff, if you like glitter clogging your nozzle for only $50/kg the Joel's Highfive Blue and Amie's "Blood of My Enemies" Red are both quite nice.

Printed Solid's Jessie PLA is $20/kg in the US, comes in many colors, very consistent and lovely to print, I highly recommend it.

>>2744650
now your ender 3 can make shit prints with a touchscreen

>>2744905
The only problem I've had with print quality with my ender three is stringing that I just can't seem to get rid of. Is print quality an issue people typically have with enders? Are people just pushing their printers too fast typically?

>>2744578
Yeah that's where I started and it wasn't good enough, which is why I came here to ask if there's anything less obvious that might solve this.

>>2744912
that guy is just a shitposter sponsored by prusa

should i just get a basic logitech webcam, or is it worth spending a lil more money on it

>>2744916
I'm not pro prusa but right now I am anti ender 3 that's for sure

>>2744939
Well you know what they say:
>100% of 3D printing problems are skill issues

I just made some TPU bungs to hold nuts in place. I think I'll just leave my TPU roll loaded in my old snapmaker's extruder, I don't use it for any other 3D printing. Though the enclosed direct-extruder makes it a pain to load filament, sometimes I find myself pushing filament out the side of the extruder and into the fan.

>>2744985
It's a deadly powerful PCB spin-coater.

I've just made a video about 3d printing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8BTHNKVAFc

>>2744939
The problem with ender 3s is that it’s most people’s first printer.

And you see all this shit online about how awesome it is and how perfect the prints are

But it’s the same thing as a 15 year old kid who just bought a dodge neon and posts about how fast it is.

Prusa and Bambu or voron guys are kinda like dudes who have a Tesla s Plaid.

Better prints and faster.

Hey my prusa made a single defect what’s wrong with it?

And some kid with the oil leaking , bald tire, check engine light neon comes up and tells “skill issue my neon does burnouts!” While not realizing that he’s spitting oil out of his sump onto his bald tires to spin the wheels thjnk

And that knocking noise isn’t the anti-lag

How the fuck do you splice filament together? Over an hour and the only thing I've got is a headache from burning filament

>>2745130
Fuck, is it really that hard? I was going to try color changing, but if it's that bad, maybe not.

>>2745141
Its harder than people think that's for sure. You have to coordinate three movements.
>And they have to be perfect

>>2745130
>>2745141
>>2745143
Why not put two extruders in series with like 5cm and a runout sensor between them, with the gears coupled by belt. That way you could just cut the filament between the two extruders, push the new colour right up to the old one, and keep printing without having to do any splices. Sounds easier than a dual hot end. Also a lot easier for when it pauses after detecting runout.

>>2745145
My main problem is the tube. That filament needs to melt by the time it gets there. I even set the temperature higher(230 degrees). However that stubborn filament won't melt in time so pressure builds up and it breaks the tube. Im at my wits end. I have to assume the problem is the nozzle... Which will be arriving soon...
>Why not lower the extruder speed
Because then it won't come out right I've tried.

Heres my uglass E5pro, about 1.5-2yrs old. Got for ~200$
I had it printing relatively well, just not tuned. Have since moved and it sat a while. I didn't do anything other than what the instructions said.
>Do I need to reassemble it with loctite, and square off the frame, etc?
From what I can tell it's a fairly flawed design. What mods/upgrades are borderline necessary?
Mods/upgrades I plan to do:
>BLtouch (which Ali model is fine? what price is too low? some are like .99$)
>cheap creality-style enclosure
>New bed? thoughts on glass?
>Silicone replacement bed springs
>New main board
Mods I intend to print:
>Struts
>Bed strain relief
>Extruder arm ext. (shorted bowden tube)
I'm basically a noob so I know I'm missing important stuff. I also will probably do the CoreXY mod and Klipper, Octo, but don't want to do too much at first.
I'll be printing PLA, ABS mostly (airsofts) probably definitely maybe

>>2745156
honestly anon, with all those mods you've described, i would just turn it into a voron trident.

>>2745156
>Do I need to reassemble it with loctite
No.
>and square off the frame, etc?
That should've been done already. Check angles before taking everything apart.
>From what I can tell it's a fairly flawed design. What mods/upgrades are borderline necessary?
New board/software and ABL. Other than that it's more of a nice to haves depending on your use case. Direct drive extruder, enclosure, coreXY conversion, 3point leveling bed. Just get a new board and ABL first and see how it turns out. Don't try to rebuild everything at once. Unless you're more into benchies than quality, you don't want the highest speeds anyway.
>BLtouch (which Ali model is fine? what price is too low? some are like .99$)
3D TOUCH is all the same knockoff no matter where you buy it from. Yes, BLtouchs are meme priced now. If you don't wanna spend as much look into BTT microprobe.
>cheap creality-style enclosure
DUDE WEED!!
>New bed? thoughts on glass?
Do you need a new bed?
>Silicone replacement bed springs
Cheap enough to always be justified.
>New main board
Yes.
>Struts
Can't hurt, but won't make up for an actual >=2 position held bed.
>Extruder arm ext. (shorted bowden tube)
Just make it a direct drive.
>I'll be printing ABS mostly
Don't bother before your enclosure's there. Dunno if your hotend is lined, but if it is, get rid of ijt as well before trying ABS.
Last but not least, check out ASA. It's ABS, but better.

>>2744714
They may be a little high, since you have direct drive, and thus a heavier x axis. However, the values in the screenshot look fine to me. I would use these on my ender if I had klipper (for now, it's stock marlin with max acceleration set to 4000 for both x and y). layer shifts will tell you if the speeds are too high.

>>2745170
>Don't try to rebuild everything at once.
Yea thats the plan right now
>Do you need a new bed?
It's fine I guess I just don't really like the OE one. Its like the plastic gets totally fused to it.
>ABS
I only have PLA+ currently, but I know of some use cases for which I may need to use ABS. I should've said mostly PLA w/ some ABS. The enclosure is mostly to avoid microplastics getting into my balls

What brands make the strongest PLA Pro?

>>2744998
5/10, no dildo on printer

>>2745193
https://help.prusa3d.com/materials
It has both impact resistance and tensile strength for a bunch of different brands. Deflection temperature too, though it's basically the same for all PLA derivatives.

Just upgraded from a Klipperized ender 3 with revo extruder and Z belts to a bambú p1p.
Gotta say i never imagined my ender 3 had fallen so back.

Now I've printed my first benchie (Bambu green) looks pretty the same as the pink ender 3 benchie but took 20 min instead of 1:38h, what should I do to the printer.
Any configs I should change? Any way to reduce poop and prime?
Should I run standard speeds, will this affect print quality? The printer vibrated itself to calibration on power up, and I configured flow. Do i need to configure pressure advance now?

>>2745223
Forgot pic

>>2745145
and if you do that the retraction will not work properly until the new filament gets to the hot end.
You're a cowboy, please do not give advice.

>>2745224
Your camera is focussed on the wall behind the benchies so it's hard to see any faults.
1. There is a big Z band on your pink benchy. You probably have a bent lead screw. This will not effect strength but it does look bad. Buy a ratrig.
2. There's some drooping overhang on your green benchy. You likely do not have enough cooling for the overhang or your temps are too high. Buy a ratrig, the EVA 3 toolhead has excellent cooling.
3. More cooling errors on the door overhang on the green benchy. The EVA 3 toolhead has excellent cooling, check it out here: https://main.eva-3d.page/
It also comes standard on the ratrig.
4. There's some slight drooping on the pink benchy window. That drooping is also probably there on the green benchy but I cannot see because you took a bad camera angle. Substandard photographs are indicative of someone using a substandard chinese printer.
Ratrig owners do not have this problem. You could add some custom supports to the benchy window. Just add a 0.6 thick bar spanning the entire window but leave a 1mm gap at each end. That will help the drooping.
5. There's some very strange bulging on the exhaust stack of the green boat. It's probably a layer time/cooling issue. Again, this can be fixed by using the EVA3 toolhead - which again - comes standard on the ratrig vcore3.1.
6. There is some Z banding on the hull of the green benchy. Someone said this was inherent to the benchy model and cannot be rectified with any settings.
Other than that, your choice of plastic is poor. I would recommend Greentec pro and given that extrudr doesn't do plastic in the particular colours you've used I can conclude you are not using greentec pro. Poor decision.

>>2745254
>have a bent lead screw

>and Z belts

>>2745254
>>2745261
wait, this is an AI generated post

>>2745263
>>2745261
>>2745254

>>2745254
I think the response is an AI generated response too, but took a better pic.
I can't think a human would diagnose a bent lead screw if using Z belts and would suggest supports on a benchy.
It's good the chimney was spotted, i hadn't, probably as described a layer time issue.
Gonna configure in Bambu.
Does anyone else think the standard cooling ik the bsmbo p1S is insufficient?

>>2745223
>>2745265
these new prosumer printers are basically near perfected from factory and need minimal tweaking these days, we have come along way from the original ender 3 in 4 years

>>2745254
schizo retard

>>2745223
cant wait to add a z belt to mine, did you increase z speed and acceleration too? let us see it

>>2745224
>>2745254
>>2745265
>

I told my dad that I wanted to start offering repair services for fixing 3d printers.
>Since everything that could break has broken...
Anyways he said I'm not qualified. Now I'm a little offended that my father thinks so little of me. What do you guys think?

>>2745311
Take the hint. It's a terrible business proposition.

>>2745311
not worth it, find a real job anon, also leave whatever shithole you are living in asap

>>2745130
>put them on top of each other like picrel so they have the same angle
>pull heat shrink over one end (as narrow as possible)
>allign them, then shrink
>then heat until you think they are joined
>cut away heat shrink
you can protect the rest with capton tape like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJeU9lXiQPE
>trim excess

>>2745130
>>2745340
same thing with silicone tube looks even easier. you can just put a soldering iron on there, then rub it a bit and stuff. But I've never done that.

>>2745266
>4 years
6 years :)

>>2745351
I feel like shit. Thanks.

>>2745355
I've been printing continuously for 13 years now. My body is 40% microplastics by weight.

>>2745351
>>2745355
>tfw the complete opposite
Feel like these shitters have been around for a decade at this point.

>>2745251
You'd be able to retract as far as the gap between the gears, assuming you put the filament join just before the second set of gears. ~4cm retraction is fairly good, though you could make it longer by spacing the gears further.

>>2742242
Is there a way of printing this without ripping the bottom section off?

Every time I print this the bottom rips off and loses some of the print.

I don't want to print it 90 degrees because i don't want the print strength in that direction since it is an axle for a model I am making

>>2745448
is that a cylindrical object?

>>2745448
My go-to is always just adding a flat side. Makes for an easy print, rarely impacts whatever the hell I'm using it for.

>>2745448
>>2745451
nvm only read halve the comment. it won't print well like that at all. increase temperature/ decrease fan for added layer strenght and stand it up

>>2745451
Yes, the print does not become cylindrical after I pull the piece off the print.

The black in the screenshot is what piece is left.

>>2745452

Is it possible if I don't want a flat slide? The shaft I am printing is going to effect the performance of the model I am making

>>2745456
maybe add some break-away part on the side to lift the entire cylinder into the air. then add supports along the bottom so the interface layer runs the entire length

>>2745458
Then you might be stuck doing it upright. It's easier to make a nice cylinder, but you lose a lot of strength. Consider adding a hole through it, printing it upright, and running a screw through it. It's easy, makes it MUCH stronger, lets you print it the easy way.

>>2745448
raft

>>2745448
Decrease layer height then cut/sand off the support structure, dont rip it.

>>2745456
>>2745515
Also increase temps if your layers rip this easily.

>>2745458
Tilt it up a little and use support.

tell me whats going on here, i image there is a setting in cura thats doing this since the print gets slender at the top

>>2745584

i cant believe makers muse is still a brony in 2024, shits just sad

designed and printed a bridge from scratch, nobody prepared me for this immense feeling of accomplishment holy shit

>>2745585
>>2745584
Check speed/flow by layer, slicer probably sped up at the thin part.

>>2745594
Congrats Anon, nice bride.

>>2745594

>>2745448
1) Print in two halves, glue together. Add a pair of vertical pin bores for alignment if needed
2) Print vertically, use to make a mould and cast in resin for a more solid part
3) It's a fucking axle, just get some rod stock and cut to length.

>>2745448
Here's some advice:
Use a metal shaft or a bolt and nyloc nut or embed a bearing into the wheel and bolt it on using a threaded insert.

>>2745592
It's sad that you even noticed whatever it was that triggered you. He never mentioned anything.

>>2745585
It has to do with the "minimum layer time" at the cooling section. Basically the printer slows down to ensure that the thin parts get proper amount of cooling so they won't be all soft and not strong enough to hold the next layers. By slowing down the printer, material inside the hot end has more time to melt. Lower temps usually give you this matte surface, while the higher temps give you shiny surface.
If you analyze flow map you will see that the part that is shiny is usually printed at lower flow

Fuck silk PLA
It left a tiny discolouration on my PEI sheet that wont go away even if I wash it. It shows up on the bottom of prints too

I let it cool to fucking room temp before I took it off too

>>2745675
That's what you get for printing worthless trinkets.
God I hate redditors

>>2745675
I hope your bad dragon dildo was worth it anon

>>2745675
Why are you using silk in the first place?

>>2745683
>>2745703
I got it free with the printer. Its blue which is my 6 year old nephews favourite colour. I used it to make him a birthday gift. Its a light up sign thing of his name for his room

>>2745704
Based uncle move, anon.

>>2745675
they shipped me two spools as a deal with my sovol sv06. kinda diabolical move for an entry level printer

>>2745675
I went through 2 whole roles of silk from different manufacturers making those pots. My PEI sheet looks fine.

>>2745777
>roles
rolls

anyone else with a scambu having issues getting their video feed to load? as of a couple days ago I can't get it to load on the phone app or orca. no errors or anything, just infinite "loading...". everything is up to date and I've changed literally nothing network or configuration wise in the past few months, let alone a week.

>>2745863
There have been many network outages in Beijing lately. No point having the camera work if Xi ching ping pong cannot watch you.

i dont get the print speed setting, does it just lower every single speed setting by percentage?

>>2742242
Is there a way to 3D print a good quality object with supports?

Every time I make a print with supports the side that has them has poor print quality.

Is there a fix in cura?

>>2745962
breakaway/dissolve away support material with 0 z gap and slower first few layers over the support.

Where can i get onahole stls

>>2745974
What are the cura settings for these?

Cannot find any listed as those

>>2746042
Gonna try some of that fancy new foaming TPU?

>>2746071
Was thinking of normal tpu

Is my bed too low / z offset no longer right? I can't have pieces of wall fall of and get dragged into the space for my hex nut.

>>2746075
bruh

>>2746075
No it seems like the Ender 5 s1 ignores cura's pause command (or I put it too high) and squiggles are roof that should have been supported by nuts.

>>2746073
Gonna rip the skin with that. If you use foaming TPU on the other hand, you'll give yourself dickrot. The only viable option is printing a plug, smoothing it out with filler and sandpaper, and using it to pour casting silicone. The rigidity of an elastomer is classified by its durometer value, look up what an ona wants I think it's like 30A, 3D filament is usually in the 80-90A / 30-50D range. The problem is, the more elastic a material is, the harder it is to force through a conventional extruder. If you have an extruder that handles thicker filament or a pallet extruder or some other special sort you may not have this problem, but I doubt it.

>>2746097
Ona holes are <10A Gel. The firmest sex toy you want to stick your dick in is 15A silicone, and even that is firmer than a Fleshlight which is ~10A silicone.

So I've had this pc case fan in a box for like 2years and I finally decided to fix this. Gonna have to print the rotor since some cracks have formed there for some fucking reason.
Anyways, does anyone know the purpose of this part in the middle of rotor? I'm also not sure how is it supposed to stay mounted and not fall out if it's upside down for example

>>2746100
oh wow that's a big difference

>>2746108
The strength of the magnet ring pulling against the iron core of the coils is what keeps it in place axially, but to keep it in place radially I think that nub in the middle is needed. Is there a bearing there? If not you'll need to make it sufficiently smooth and concentric, which won't be trivial. I'll be 3D printing some bearing blocks soon, I made an OpenSCAD file so I can tweak the sizes parametrically for fine-tuning the fit. I recommend you model the interfacing parts parametrically so you can do the same.

>>2746097
>rip the skin

>>2746114
I should've mentioned, there actually is a 3D printable material that is definitely soft enough, Poro-Lay Gel-Lay. Their filaments are materials mixed with a PVA binder, so they're easily printed like PLA, then you dissolve out the PVA in warm water. Lets you print some very soft foam materials, their softest being Gel-Lay. I don't know the actual spec, but it is roughly a 10A gel material, soft enough I'd stick my dick in it. It's very expensive and few sell it, I don't know if it's still produced or not, and I don't know about the safety of the material, probably a terrible idea to print an ONA-hole with it, but you could.

>>2746114
>The strength of the magnet ring pulling against the iron core of the coils is what keeps it in place axially
I have the same fans in my case, disassembled the front panel to see how they are constructed and honestly I can't tell if there is a bearing in the middle or not. Tried pulling it apart but it sits so firmly I'm afraid I will break the rotor. Which is weird since the broken fan I can pull apart no problem

>>2746121
>>2746114
>Is there a bearing there?
I can't tell 100% for sure, but I believe there is after some inspection. I believe there is some metallic pin in the middle which might be a bearing, which means I must've had dropped it when I disassembled the old fan way back. Do you think it's possible to do it without the bearing?

>>2746119
The porosity will give you dickrot.

>>2746121
>the broken fan I can pull apart no problem
It could be friction of never being taken apart before, but it could possibly be that the fan got too hot and baked the magnets past their curie temp.

>>2746123
Sounds more like a greased bushing to me. You can try to use the 3D printed plastic as a bushing surface, with enough grease it will probably last ok without any stress on it, but at this point I'd probably just buy nice noctua fans instead.

>>2746131
>but at this point I'd probably just buy nice noctua fans instead
Yeah, not sure if it's worth to tinker in shit just for the sake of tinkering. Gonna give it a try and see if there's gonna be any results in the first few tries, thanks

>>2744665
>>2744666
can you turn your printer on or off through the web interface?

>>2742242
hello autists, I'm a schizoid and ever since I got my P1P I have used an SD card and kept it off the network. Since the open source firmware is only for the X1 series I'm stuck with shitty old firmware and I really want to update to the new one that makes the motors quieter, but I don't want to send any logs that are saved on the internal memory when I connect to their retarded cloud. I have already pulled the camera ribbon cable. My question is how could I wipe the logs before I connect to the cloud to update my FW? I read somewhere that the logs capture about 40h of data so I'm thinking about plugging the ribbon cable back in and starting a 100 hr empty print at room temperature and no filament and putting the printer in a cardboard box so the camera doesn't capture anything. Will this work and replace all the meaningful previous logs with empty pointless crap? I need them to not know what I've been printing either, not just the camera logs but all printer related logs

>>2746144
this anon has atleast 5tb of CP on his computer

>>2746144
who the fuck this paranoid buys a fucking bambu?