[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / ic / jp / lit / sci / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports ] [ become a patron ] [ status ]
2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


View post   

File: 27 KB, 354x338, ThereIsNoSuchThingAsAStupidQuestion.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2731513 No.2731513 [Reply] [Original]

Old thread >>2725531

I don't have a question, we just need a new thread.
Old one doesn't bump (reached bump limit)

>> No.2731558
File: 38 KB, 640x640, 1702977325689879.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2731558

Honda HS35 snow blower troubleshooting, help
bought it under the impression that it 'just needs a carb clean,' lol
carb cleaned, fresh oil and gas. I couldn't seem to get the air jet out of the carb, so I cleaned it as best I could with it in place. seems to flow gas fine. new spark plug. no start. can't see a spark with plug grounded to engine block. Spark plug dry when inspected after a few pulls ( should it be wet with gas? ) Is my next step to check / replace the ignition coil? first small engine project, any help appreciated

>> No.2731602

>>2731558
If it has no spark and the plug is wet it's likely because there is no spark to cause ignition to burn off the fuel.
Check for a grounded kill switch - The run/stop switch.
Also, most snow blowers have a low oil shutdown switch. It may be misbehaving and not allowing a start.
If those check out, you can get a rough check of the coil with an ohm meter.

>> No.2731615

>>2731558
>Honda HS35 snow blower
How old is this engine?
Is it a G series or GX?
G150?

>> No.2731751

>>2731558

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/threads/honda-hs35-no-spark.32962/

>> No.2731770

>>2731513
i feel like there are genuinely stupid questions but you have to ask them in order to see how stupid the answer is

>> No.2731792

>>2731602
>>2731615
>>2731751
thanks kings I'll take another look today
fortunately time is on my side with this warm weather

>> No.2731796

>>2731770
Do I like apples?

>> No.2731814

>>2731796
its candy in fruit form, how could u not?

>> No.2731820

On a scale of one to ten how does this setup compare to a mitre saw? For 10 or 20 cuts a month

>> No.2731821
File: 321 KB, 750x486, 4F578ED0-4EA9-49AB-BB0F-39B8114D1EE9.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2731821

>>2731820
Forgot pic of course, kreg cross cut station

>> No.2731829

Bought a new washing machine and it's got fucking touch buttons, the capacitive bullshit. Since it's in my rather narrow bathroom I suspect I'll be walking into the buttons from time to time, messing with the settings as it's washing.
Currently thinking about 3d printing some kind of guard/fence type thing so it's really just fingers that can get there, but I was hoping someone knew of a better solution than that.

>> No.2731832

Anyone know a good solar setup for extremely cold weather? like -30 to -40ish celcius. What would be a good battery type or brand?

>> No.2731837

>>2731829
Tape a piece of fabric to hang over them. But capacitive touch buttons don’t normally activate when you run into them that’s why they’re used in the first place

>> No.2731850

>>2731837
I might be using the wrong term for the buttons, then. Cuz I've bumped into it with my hips whilst wearing shirt/pants, ie fully cloth covered, and it's accepted it as input.

>> No.2731853

>>2731832
Look into self-heating batteries, they're a touch more expensive but work in colder climates. Not sure that the limits are though, that might be below what they are rated for.
Either way look into building an insulated box around them.
If you're doing that it's worth considering using regular batteries instead and adding some terrarium heater mats. Saves cost, and they're quite easy to work with as well as safe to operate. There's some simple temperature on/off switch circuits as well so you can regulate the temps inside.

>> No.2731892

I'm a computer science professional and I'm finding myself with a lot of spare time (3 days per week) that I could be using to make more money, so I've been wanting to learn a trade in the case that my job gets outsourced to AI.
If any of you were in my shoes what would you do? I just care about money and not having to break my back.

>> No.2731895
File: 423 KB, 1280x960, 42683014-5A1F-490C-9624-294C6BC23870.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2731895

>>2731829
I have the same shit with my dishwasher and my balls turn the thing on literally every time I’m putting dishes away in the cabinets above the thing. At least it beeps so I can turn it off.

I have no idea for a solution. Get an arduino and pull the buttons off the board and make it remote control

>>2731558
This >>2731602

If no spark, check kill switch, and oil pressure sensor if applicable. You can normally short or bypass them to test and see if it sparks with that, confirming the issue.

If neither of those, possibly dead ignition coil. You may be able to test for resistance on that, can’t remember.

Also another stupid question, how confident are you of no spark? Did you do it in the dark? Are you holding the body of the plug on a solid good ground as you pull? You sounded a little iffy. I got me one of those inline spark testers awhile back to make sure I’m 100% there’s no spark before throwing parts, some machines are hard to get a good ground and view and have it in the dark all while pulling the starter cord.

>> No.2731896

>>2731892
>I just care about money and not having to break my back.

With this attitude, and working 3 days or fewer per week, you'll fit in fine on any crew.

>> No.2731897

>>2731896
Well I was under the impression that not every trade involved hanging dry wall for hours on end per day, and that I could spend those 3 days a week I currently have self-learning before actually expecting anyone would hire me or take me on as an apprentice

>> No.2731899

any HVAC techs on? I want to make my own evaporator coil, does a TXV remove the requirement to match the heating/cooling capacity to the condenser coil?

if not, how do I figure out the length and sizing of the pipe to match the condenser? just measure the condenser coil?

>> No.2731900

>>2731892
if you have garage space, get a plasma table and use it to fabricate custom parts and / or make kitsch wall art

>> No.2731904

>>2731900
>get a plasma table
Seems cool, I'll do some research, best I got is an unfinished basement though, does one of these need a room with good ventilation so I don't poison myself or something?

>> No.2731910

>>2731895
>I have no idea for a solution. Get an arduino and pull the buttons off the board and make it remote control
Yeah was thinking about that, but having installed it I'd rather not un-install it. Narrow areas, annoying to move. Plus warranty's a bitch.
I'm gonna try for the 3d printed guard. Maybe make it flip-up and pretend it's a cool fighter jet instead of a stupidly designed washing machine.
Just gotta find some adhesive that works well with PLA and the metal paint, and is removable in case of warranty.

>> No.2731930
File: 2.98 MB, 3024x4032, PXL_20231222_231128838.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2731930

>>2731926
Repost from last thread because I'm retarded.
>what is this called? The left end is leaking and I want to replace it, but I'm retarded and don't want to wrench on it without understanding how it comes apart. Thank you

>> No.2731947

>>2731930
looks like a union

>> No.2731957

>>2731930
You can take your picture to a mom and pop hardware store, point out exactly what's leaking, and they'll work with you. They'll probably save you time, most homeowner plumbing jobs I'd bet average three trips to the store. If you know the guys there, you could even do this at a box store, but you have to know who knows their shit and who doesn't.

>> No.2731959

Do they make folding weld tables? My garage doesn't have enough space. Ideally, I want to have one I can just wheel around.

>> No.2731967

What can cause occasional loss of power in a power outlet? I have 4 power outlets in my laundry room and they sometimes randomly stop working. Generally I just swap the stuff I have plugged in to the other one whenever this happens but at the moment none work.
An electrician I asked a while ago said I probably just need to replace the fuse in my breaker box. Suggestions?

>> No.2731969
File: 416 KB, 1863x844, Untitled-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2731969

>>2731930

>> No.2731970

>>2731967
replace the breaker in your breaker box
they are like $15-$20

>> No.2731971

>>2731930
>>2731969
forgot to say this is to tighten it, not to remove it
if it keeps leaking after you tighten it, then twist it the other way to remove it, but you're going to have to desolder it and solder on a new one

>> No.2731972
File: 55 KB, 853x1000, ArcStation 30FX.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2731972

>>2731959
Yes. Pic related has built-in wheels and a 3/16" table top, and folds down to about 3" thick (it's a relatively nice one). There are others with various features and price points.

>> No.2731973

>>2731895
>I have the same shit with my dishwasher
>I have no idea for a solution
wow much helpful, best post

>> No.2731974

>>2731558
>I couldn't seem to get the air jet out of the carb, so I cleaned it as best I could with it in place
so you don't actually know if the jet is blocked or not? do a proper job and make sure it's actually clear.

>> No.2731975

>>2731820
>>2731821
if you're cutting that much wood, just get a proper mitre saw, hell of a lot easy to make the same cut multiple times, and you can get one for less than $200. if you do any wood working on a regular basis, a mitre saw and table saw are a smart investment

>> No.2731976

>>2731829
lock the controls after starting a load, read the manual, everything has to be child proof nowadays

>> No.2731978
File: 745 KB, 932x875, Screenshot.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2731978

>>2731972
we need to start banning people who use this board as a search engine

>> No.2732034
File: 2.00 MB, 3072x4080, PXL_20231221_181645119.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2732034

Wasp was inside my apartment. Never had any other big bugs like this. Is this probably just a one off thing or should I call the apartment about it?

>> No.2732057

>>2731899
How specialized will this evap be?

>> No.2732072
File: 40 KB, 640x480, images.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2732072

>>2732057
I'm just wrapping the pipe around a metal tub filled with water. Essentially doing pic related but on the outside so the pipes don't get damaged

>> No.2732093
File: 29 KB, 599x512, images - 2023-12-23T004156.884.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2732093

Any hint/trick to put back the rotor of my washing machine on the axis from the spider arm? Due rotor's magnets it's very hard to match this to the axis because the ditect driver motor fucks everything

>> No.2732094

>>2732034
is there supposed to be a wasp in that picture?

>> No.2732378

Ideas on removing the 21 3/4” x 1/8” x 1 3/8” section, please and thank you. I have: Handheld jigsaw, handheld belt sander, random orbital sander, handheld circular saw, and a set of cheap chisels. The wood is pine.

>> No.2732379
File: 3.65 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_3603.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2732379

>>2732378
Picture didn’t download. Here it is (hopefully).

>> No.2732383

>>2732378
>>2732379
Is that board attached to the assembly, or is it loose?

>> No.2732399

>>2731930
Hi
>>2731947
>>2731971
ok but we don't know if it's leaking from the threaded portion or the inner face where you suggested tightening it if that's where it is.

Anon, supposing 971 is correct, just tighten it. It probably got worked loose because it wasn't tightened properly to begin with.

If it's the threads to the left, then shut off the water, loosen the union and slide the collar off. Then you can remove, re-dope/tape the pipe, and tighten it back on.

At most you need a large adjustable wrench, and a plumber's wrench. And some dope/tape. The union faces and threads are not doped/taped, as the collar is supposed to be tight enough to press the machined surfaces together so they don't leak. It's also why you keep your unions halves together, if you ever remove one and want to use it later: the faces are machined to each other.

>> No.2732405

>>2732383
It’s part of the same board, all 1 piece.

>> No.2732409

>>2732093
Index cards as spacers so the wires don't get damaged, you can yank them out once you've started seating it in.

>> No.2732414

>>2732405
There are at least three additional pieces of wood in direct contact with the marked board. Are they attached to each other or not?

>> No.2732430
File: 3.13 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_3604.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2732430

>>2732414
The piece is the back panel of a box. The 2 sides and the bottom are attached with staples and wood glue.

>> No.2732433
File: 2.78 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_3606.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2732433

>>2732430
Closeup of one of the joints. The small vertical slot and long horizontal slot are cut into the board.

>> No.2732437

>>2732430
>>2732433
It would have been fast, clean, and easy with a circular saw before the other pieces were attached. Check that the chisels are sharp, and get to it.

>> No.2732446

>>2732437
Any chiseling advice for this job?

>> No.2732457

>>2732446
https://youtu.be/R_3iow62bq4

>> No.2732464

>>2732457
Thank you very much. I have my work cut out :-)

>> No.2732470
File: 74 KB, 425x364, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2732470

>>2731513
how do I measure elevation between two points of land? its about a kilometer between spring water and my farm house.

I'm trying to lay a 5 inch PVC pipe from a spring water to my house. I'm not quite sure if my house is at lower elevation compared to the spring water.

I want to make sure that my farm house is at lower level to take advantage for gravity before I spend any money doing it.

>> No.2732481

>>2732470
Look on this site and toggle topology lines.
Openstreetmap.org
Mxdgk

>> No.2732488

Knife Blanks(AKA Unhandled Knives, NOT raw materials for forging knife) Where do I start in terms of determining what's good, what's shit, etc?

>> No.2732493

>>2732378
>handheld circular saw
transfer your cut lines to the outside and use the circular saw

>> No.2732495

>>2732470
>I want to make sure that my farm house is at lower level to take advantage for gravity before I spend any money doing it.

GPS

>> No.2732502

>>2732094
I clicked on the wrong picture ok

>> No.2732520

>>2732493
Anon wants a 1/8" deep rabbet, not a through cut.

>> No.2732529

>>2732495
>GPS
>accurate within 75 feet.
I'll resort to that if I can't find something else.

>> No.2732555
File: 292 KB, 960x1280, 18ED9E88-C87C-4DA4-963C-39C452EBDE0D.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2732555

>>2731967
Last time this happened to me, it was the 240V outlet going in and out for my dryer and it was the breaker. The one leg wouldn’t go down to 0V a lot of times, but random shit like 7V-40V when it wasn’t working.

>> No.2732566

>>2732529
You need precision for this task, not necessarily accuracy. You don't need to know the absolute elevation of the places, just the difference between them.

>> No.2732592
File: 82 KB, 736x981, 5e16e45ff0cc5ec95d2260ea298135c6.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2732592

I'd ask /g/ but I find them to be retarded. I have a keyboard from an old Dell laptop and would like to use it over USB with my PC. I see two very different approaches. I see "keyboard tester" boards which have the factory ports and an interpreter board to convert it to USB. I have my doubts as to how well they work as this whole diy project/open source thing to do this with an arduino and a custom board. Programing the board seems to be very specific to each keyboard to address everything properly with the ribbon cables being different. It gives me doubts that these simple tester boards would even work if it really is that complicated. Perhaps I'm just overthinking this as a result of someone else overthinking it.

>> No.2732601

>>2731967
Loose lug on the first outlet
Open them all up and tighten the bolts down

>> No.2732606

>>2732592
I would like you to explain to us why you're doing this and then we can talk about it

>> No.2732622

>>2732493
Thank you, but what this >>2732520
Anon said. Would a small hand held router work? I’m sure as hell not buying one for just one project, but maybe I could rent one or borrow one.

>> No.2732630

>>2732622
I read your follow-ups to the original post.
Doing this while the box is assembled is going to assure a shitty job.
>glue and staples
With care, you can still get it apart without destroying it.
Once you have it apart, you can use the saw set to the depth desired and complete the channel.
>router
Router use is not for inexperienced users.
Work with tools you already know.

>> No.2732705

>>2732630
> With care, you can still get it apart without destroying it.

I think this is my best option. I’m an inexperienced chiseler and my set is low quality, made more for gouging out pieces of wood, so I’ll probably mess it up chiseling.
Thanks anons that responded. You really helped. Best holiday wishes to you and yours.

>> No.2732753

>>2732601
What do you mean by first outlet?

>> No.2732776
File: 157 KB, 547x309, Screenshot_2023-12-24_18-33-49.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2732776

>>2732753
>What do you mean by first outlet?
he might have meant the one closest to the breaker, and that they used the screws to connect to the next run as shown in pic related.

>> No.2732811

>>2732529
Hook a few garden hoses together and test it.

>> No.2732823

From here >>2732546

tl;dr is, I intend to replace the thermal paste on the thermostat of a rice cooker. I have CPU thermal paste that performs at 25-180C, while the cooker shouldn't ever exceed 178C due to a safety fuse. Would I be flying too close to the sun using this paste on something that spends a fair bit of time at at least 100C, compared to a CPU's average of 50C (by my research)?

>> No.2732833

>>2732823
What brand? If it’s rated for 180c then I’d say send it but better double check the literature to make sure first

>> No.2732838

>>2732833
This stuff. Goes down to -30C, I misremembered.
https://www.startech.com/en-us/computer-parts/silvgrease1

>> No.2732848

>>2732811
>a few garden hoses
>1km
Would need 33x 100' hoses, supposing a straight path is clear.

>> No.2732921

>>2732838
Should be fine as long as you’re not using the rice cooker all day long (I.e. in a restaurant). Probably more than sufficient for a home rice cooker

>> No.2732922

>>2732921
It is indeed a home appliance. Thanks bruv.

>> No.2732933

>>2732848
Oops, skipped the 1 km part.

Get a laser level and a bunch of stakes.

Why a 5 inch pipe for a house?

(metric and standard mixed ... UK?)

If in the US, USGS topo maps might be precise enough.

>> No.2732946

>>2731820
For 10-20 I'd say it's hella fine. I haven't used this setup but it seems okay at first glance and Kreg is not known for making half-assed stuff.

>> No.2732947

>>2731829
You might accidentally turn it on, but other than the on/off button (which on most models I have seen is still physical) all controls are disable while the machine is running.

>> No.2732948

>>2731850
I know what you're saying. I install them for a living and when I'm reaching behind or pushing them back into their spot, my belly grazing on the front panel activates all sorts of functions. Also all models that I know reset to "standard" when you select a different program or cycle with the rotating knob. All parameters like temperature and spin speed are reset to defaults. I believe that your 3d printed stuff is overkill.

>> No.2732968

>>2732529
GPS is not super accurate but almost all devices use averaging and are able to get a fix within typically a 1 meter radius, especially in open fields without interference.

If you can get a digital barometer (like a chip for an Arduino, or possibly one built into your phone) then a rise of 12 Pa (0.012 kPa) corresponds to a drop of about one meter. At higher altitudes, the difference gets smaller, but when comparing two levels, the one with higher pressure is the lower.

Since your two locations are a kilometer apart, consider that a drop of less than 20 meters results in an under 2% slope. Not much. Over that much distance it will be very hard to have a continuous slope as some spots will be higher than others. Moving water up by 20 m with a pump is not much work compared to the potential friction losses of a 1000 m run. Without accounting for friction losses, a 100 W pump can easily move 1000 L per hour a head of 20 meters. With friction losses it will be a lot less flow but head will remain the same.

>> No.2732970

>>2732555
Please, for your own sake, replace /ALL/ your Challenger brand breakers. I hate tripfags as much as the next guy but I'd rather they not die in preventable house fires.

>> No.2732993

>>2732601
>>2732753
Modern code now suggests pig tails to avoid this problem, and I think it requires it in some cases like MWBCs, as the loss of neutral can cause significant damage to devices plugged in. Pig tails means you use a short bit of wire and a wire nut or Wago to connect the outlet to the circuit instead of relying on the two screws to remain tight. If you do that one weird trick where you strip the insulation while keeping the wire continuous and you loop the wire around one screw, then you save a wire nut and get the same benefits as a pig tail.

>> No.2733000

>>2732968
won't gravity turn it into a powerful siphon?

>> No.2733040

>>2732970
After replacing the breaker (which was like $100 for NOS), the new one blew and did some reading on those challenger panels and the whole thing was replaced within a couple months.

One of the neighbors told me his homwowner’s insurance made him replace the Challenger panel upon buying the house. Another neighbor still had the old panel and when he saw the friend of a friend Saturday no-permit special, he asked the sparkies what they wanted to replace his panel, and they walked across the street and did his whole panel while one guy was finishing up mine.

>> No.2733270
File: 2.99 MB, 4000x3000, 20231225_221534.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2733270

>>2731513
What should I do bout this. I tried scraping off and painting over but now it's back

>> No.2733295

>>2733270
do you have mold resistant drywall and paint? You could replace the dry wall in that section with a different material

>> No.2733297
File: 102 KB, 1000x1000, Kilz.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2733297

>>2733270
>I tried scraping off and painting over but now it's back

Bleach it
then
Kilz it.

>> No.2733301
File: 85 KB, 791x543, stop mold.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2733301

>>2733270
Did you try a web search tool?

https://www.grainger.com/know-how/equipment/kh-bleach-and-mold

>> No.2733423
File: 63 KB, 750x750, rock of somalia.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2733423

What are some good resources for getting started in lockpicking?

>> No.2733424

What happens if a pipe breaks in a house with concrete floors? Seems like almost 100% of newly built houses in my country have concrete floors and it's making me nervous.

>> No.2733432

>>2733424
The pipes are well protected and if properly installed shouldn't be a problem.
If a problem does arise, in some cases new pipes can be threaded through the old.
In a worst case, breaking a channel through the concrete to repair/replace the pipe is an option.
Horizontal boreing is also a thing.

>> No.2733444
File: 75 KB, 600x337, new kandahar hospital.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2733444

>>2733424
>What happens if a pipe breaks in a house with concrete floors?

what happens is you get poo and pee dripping on your head.
happened during US invasion of Afghanistan.
western nations paid for a whole bunch of schools and medical clinics to be built by locals with zero experience.
bad plumbing inside concrete made these places super smelly and unsanitary.
close to 100% were bulldozed.

>> No.2733458

>>2733432
Sounds rather complicated and expensive. I'd rather just pry up some floorboards than do all that.
>>2733444
Heh, interesting factoid

>> No.2733463

shit's fucked mang

>> No.2733489
File: 284 KB, 1597x964, raupanels_under_hardwood-1644859278.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2733489

>>2731513
what so bad about radiant floor heating?

>> No.2733498
File: 59 KB, 640x640, shower.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2733498

I live in a hard water area.
Do I really have to clean my shower after every use?

>> No.2733501

Question, could I upgrade my service from 100 amp to 200 amp and keep my current 100 amp panel as a sub panel being fed by a new 200 amp panel?

>> No.2733546

>>2733501
Most municipalities require all wiring replaced when updating the main
When an electrician "installs" anything (which would include rewiring your old panel), everything he installs has to be new or his insurance wouldn't cover a failure

So you're looking at replacing everything

>>2733489
It's great for slab floors but you still need to cool the place so it's usually added luxury as you'll also have to be up to code on heating btus/ft2 also which means you'd have a furnace, an ac AND radiant

>>2733270
Kilz is a meme
Bleach it, BIN primer it and then use oil based paint
Oil based paint creates a smooth surface that's significantly more difficult for spores to bond to

>> No.2733549

>>2733498
Lol no
You'll likely need to use CLR or something when you do clean it but lol
If you own the house, I would recommend a softener

>> No.2733551

>>2731973
Just tape something that flips over the latch so it can't close when you don't want it to

>> No.2733553

Is it okay to use furniture grade PVC connectors with schedule 40 PVC pipes? Do I have to use PVC glue or can I use Krazy glue or something similar?

>> No.2733563

>>2733553
I assume you aren't doing plumbing
I would just use clear pvc cement

>> No.2733572

>>2733563
You are correct- I'm not doing plumbing; building a vocal booth. I'll look for the cement. Thanks!!

>> No.2733587

>>2733501
You could if you are doing it yourself. What the other anon said is true about trade electricians, which is why you can find quite a bit of stuff at home resource and similar used building material stores.

>>2733270
Don't cover it. Find the source and eliminate it. Something's wrong to allow mold to colonize there. Mycotoxins are poisonous and a real thing. I cringe at Kilz etc because it's not addressing the underlying issue. Like the other anon said, cut that section out and replace it with something rated for moisture exposure. But while you are up there, look around for the source.

I bet your bathroom fan doesn't continue to run after you turn it off. Find a timer switch that keeps it going for 10 min after you leave the bathroom. That will give time for the moist air to be evacuated. Either outside or into a ventilated attic. Make sure that vent is clear, and the fan housing itself is both operational and clean.

I've seen tie-ins to dryer vents, which meant a clog upstream, due to lint and moisture, meant the vent wasn't working.

>> No.2733589

>>2733572
He means clear plumbing cement/pvc glue. It's rated for plumbing but doesn't leave stains. I think Code requires the blue / purple glue / primer in some areas, that's why you see it as the typical glue. The same glue comes in clear, though.

>> No.2733606

>>2733589
Ah. Okay. Either way, use it or enjoy having my structure fall on me?

>> No.2733623

>>2732776
why do Americans use metal enclosures on their electrical systems, everything from the switchboard, power points and lights

>> No.2733624
File: 266 KB, 421x555, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2733624

This might deserve it's own thread, but who knows
I'm looking to replace my door bell chime with a custom/programable bell. I haven't been able to find any resources on how to do this at all - any recommendations? I have some electrical knowledge but I'd rather not start from scratch
Pic related

>> No.2733631
File: 46 KB, 640x529, itnotthatcomplicated.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2733631

>>2733624
>I haven't been able to find any resources on how to do this at all - any recommendations? I have some electrical knowledge but I'd rather not start from scratch

You may be in over your head.

>> No.2733634

>>2733631
Yeah, I obviously know that much. That's not what I'm asking, read my post again

>> No.2733651
File: 90 KB, 802x593, I have no idea of what I want - somebody spoonfeed me please.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2733651

>>2733624
>any recommendations?

Have you considered a search engine?

>> No.2733684

>Have TV in room wall mounted on interior wall.
>Want to move to exterior wall.
>House built in 2006 with studs and drywall.

Do I need to do anything special or is it the same procedure as mounting on an interior wall? Retards that owned the house before me put a bunch of nails in the exterior wall, so finding the studs shouldn't be difficult.

>> No.2733698

>>2733684
>Do I need to do anything special or is it the same procedure as mounting on an interior wall?
Do you live in an area with weather?

>> No.2733700

>>2733698
Yes

>> No.2733715

>>2733624
Just buy a wireless set. Your current old style door bell rings directly from the line frequency, with the transformer just reducing the voltage. Programmable ones have a speaker and can work from line power directly or from a battery, but only very few work from the transformer output.

>> No.2733737

>>2733651
Have you considered looking into any of those links? Because if you did, you would see that none of those are what I want at all.
>>2733715
thank you for being the only helpful reply. I guess I would have to do something very DIY if I wanted to use the transformer output and use a battery anyway. thanks.

>> No.2733785 [DELETED] 

>>2732470
Find a really long stick

>> No.2733797
File: 17 KB, 500x400, IMG_4962.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2733797

I have to install three light fixtures similar to picrel one after the other (all three in a straight line).
1- Each one has cable holes and connectors on both sides. Does that mean I can just kind of daisy chain them, meaning that only one fixture is connected straight to the source, then the second one gets fed from a cable that comes out of the second hole of the first fixture, and so on? As far as I know that’s not a good idea but maybe I’m wrong since that’s how the installation was started.
2- I’m not familiar with the color scheme of the wiring inside of the light fixtures. The wires besides the ground wire are black and if I recall correctly while. The wires I need to connect to them, brown and blue. Which one goes where? Do they need to be alternated in any way from fixture to fixture? I ask because the person who started the installation connected black with blue in one fixture and with brown in another other one.

>> No.2733802

I have 6 outlets that read open neutral in my kitchen, was wondering if there are any common problems that I could try troubleshooting before I call an electrician.

>> No.2733828

>>2733797

In freedomland, white is neutral and black is hot. In Euroland, blue is neutral, brown is hot. So, if I did not have a meter or tester to confirm the mains, I'd wire one per the above. If it works, put them all in parallel, the same way. Meaning the blue wire goes to every white using wagos or wire nuts, and brown goes to all blacks.

>> No.2733952

What are the odds a 100+ yrs old house doesn't have lead paint? I'm stripping old stairs with a heat gun (on lower setting) but still concerned about dust and whatnot. I did a test that came back negative, but can't help but think I fucked up the test.

>> No.2734007
File: 470 KB, 1415x1243, batterycharge.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734007

electronics related question here, have no knowledge whatsoever
I have a old samsung tablet where the micro USB has worn out and wont accept a charge anymore. (im assuming the repeated plugging/unplugging fucked up the pins over the years). I tried to solder a new one myself but I'm too retarded so I'm trying to look for an external solution. The battery's model is "t4000e" and from researching connectors it looks like a micro JST. My current plan is to set up a janky JST --> JST Adapter board --> LiPo battery charger just so I can boot into the tablet, recover some shit and throw it away since I don't use it anymore. pic related, its random products I found on amazon to put together my build.
Is this a extremely retarded idea? Will the battery explode since it doesn't have the proper ICs commonly used on tablet motherboards? Please help a retarded anon out, thank you

>> No.2734029

i drilled a deep hole in a hollow brick wall. i need to close it again but in a way that i can drill a new hole right next to it, even intersecting the old hole while not compromising strength of the wall/hole when i go and put a load carrying bolt in there.
how would i best go about it and what material do i use? something that i could push down that hole with something like a caulk gun would seem like a good option but im not sure.

>> No.2734030

>>2733423
watch some lockpicking lawyer. if you havent figured it out after a handful of videos then idk.
get a cheap transparent lock to get some handson.
its really very simple to do and the only hard part is practice and acquiring all the different tools you might need depending on what kinds of locks you want to pick.

>> No.2734035

it may be a stupid question, I have never made male threads but here it goes: can I machine thread a 7/16 male thread on an already threaded 1/2 male?

>> No.2734077 [DELETED] 

>>2734007
>Is this a extremely retarded idea?
No
>>2734007
>Will the battery explode since it doesn't have the proper ICs commonly used on tablet motherboards?
If you are using a charger designed for charging and balancing LiIon batteries, and if you connect it correctly, it should be fine.

>> No.2734080

>>2734035
The thread pitch is almost certainly different.
You can remove the threads from the 1/2" cut but depending on WHAT it is, there may be leftover evidence of removed material.
When you cut the 7/16" threads, they may provide less holding capacity than a clean thread of the same material.

>> No.2734087

>>2734007
I answered but deleted my answer. So if you saw it but didn't get to reply, that's why.

The battery is a 3.7v 4Ah 'battery' so it won't connect to the JST adapter as a normal balancing setup.
I don't have an example of the t4000e to examine but from pics it appears to have two red, two black, and a single white and blue wire.
My guess is the two red are tied together and make up the positive terminal. The two black are tied together to make up the negative terminal, and the blue and white are thermistor connection leads.
The wires are paired to handle extra current through the relatively small connector.
Just use any single-cell Li-Ion or LiPo charger connected to the red and black wires to charge the battery to more than 3.6v but less than 4.2v.
Plug it back into the tablet and get your data.

You'll still need a way to connect to the battery so a single six pin JST connector should be all you need beyond a charging source.

>> No.2734089

>>2734007
>it looks like a micro JST.
IF it's a JST then >>2734087
but from your image, it's difficult to tell.
Post a close up of just the connector, please.

>> No.2734090
File: 97 KB, 1071x729, t4000e.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734090

>>2734087
>My guess is the two red are tied together and make up the positive terminal. The two black are tied together to make up the negative terminal,
Evidence found.

>> No.2734106
File: 3.16 MB, 4000x3000, 20231227_204939.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734106

There are several long hairline cracks in my ceiling, right below my upstairs bedroom. Is this something to worry about? The house is a 1940s build but was remodeled "down to the studs" in the 90s

>> No.2734114
File: 142 KB, 912x684, 530da321e96f9.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734114

>>2734087
thanks so much for the help anon, I was about to pull the trigger on those 3 products in my original reply but posted here for advice just in case it was a dumb decision and it turns out it was.
>Just use any single-cell Li-Ion or LiPo charger connected to the red and black wires to charge the battery to more than 3.6v but less than 4.2v.
So it looks like I won't be able to use the charger I posted in the image (ISDT 608AC). I wanted to get that one because it looked more fancy and had more fine control of controlling the voltage/amps but whatever. In this case, would this product serve my purpose? https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-Charger-Discharger-Chargers-Connectors/dp/B07V5CPYRS
>You'll still need a way to connect to the battery so a single six pin JST connector should be all you need beyond a charging source.
I found two potential products:
https://www.amazon.ca/Jiayouy-10Pcs-Battery-Balance-Extension/dp/B07PJJC2P1
https://www.amazon.ca/Upgraded-Connector-Battery-Inductrix-Eachine/dp/B07NWD5NTN
Since I only need to connect the red and black wires, should I go with the "elechawk" branded one?

>>2734089
Sorry about that, I got the images from google and posted it in GIMP to make a quick collage. Pic related should be a better closeup
I also found this post on StackExchange and my guess about the connector being JST is right:
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/328595/tablet-battery-connector-identification

>> No.2734227
File: 328 KB, 500x500, 1646511984479.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734227

>>2734029

>> No.2734228
File: 90 KB, 1500x1380, file.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734228

someone recommend me a good soldering iron/station
ive used a cheap $20 station for a short while, then moved on to one of those T100 pen style irons.
im willing to pay good money on good tools.
the only requirement i would need it to have is be somewhat easily stow-able.
so something liek pic rel with big protrusions doesnt work. i need it to be somewhat box shaped. removable cables would also be great.

>> No.2734252

>>2734114
All that stuff is fine but you're going way overkill to charge the battery one time.
All you need is a 4.2V charger for 3.7V 1S LiIon LiPO battery.
You should be able to find one for less than $10 delivered to your door.
Stick straight pins through the black and red wires or trim the insulation back for just enough clearance and use small jumper leads to connect to the charger.
Single cell chargers can be found on eBay that plug in to a USB port for less than $5
Get one and plug it into your phone charger.

If you want all that extra stuff, go for it. I just don't see you needing it in the future.

>> No.2734254

>>2734029
>>2734227
If you want to drill beside the hole you put in the wrong place, you'll need to have something of the same hardness as the brick to keep the drill from wandering back into the hole.

Drive an oak peg into the hole and do your best at drilling where the hole needs to be.
When the drill has drifted into the peg too far, drill the peg out, drive in a new one, and try some more.

>> No.2734304
File: 77 KB, 245x206, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734304

Greetings,
I asked some time ago about regrouting my disgusting hallway tiles and I was almost done with removing all the old grout when the missus and me discovered some decent looking self adhesive vinyl floor tiles, which are gapless (if laid correctly). And this is basically what we are looking for - they are the same color, but there is a bigger chance that I will lay them better than the amateur we found who did the initial tiles. There is a big chance that the old tiles with new grout will be an eye sore anyway, so I got the needed material - enough tiles + some overhead and vinyl primer. She also doesn't want to hear about a new construction site in the near future, so we have to go for something like this.

Any tips on how to lay them properly and without any gaps? How to cut precise? I think I will take the longest wall from the hallway and start parallel to it, slowly filling the rest of the space. I guess complete gapless installation is not easily possible, so I plan on putting some silicone if it's that bad.
The hallway is around 15m2, ~110 cm wide with ~2x2m wide parts in each end and 6 or 7 doorways. Only 2 doors open outwards, but there is enough space for the vinyl.

PS: I have a new hammer drill with chisel functionality and I am more than ready to remove the old tiles if it turns ugly or something.

Thanks & happy holidays

>> No.2734306
File: 1.22 MB, 2132x675, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734306

>>2734304
this is what the hallway looks like, I think I will start working with the bottom wall moving right, hoping to manage to cut and fit proper pieces in the doorframes. The whole thing should be gapless, so direction doesn't really matter. Oh, the tiles are ~30x60cm.

>> No.2734344

>>2733000
No.
>>2731770
does wasting digits make a question more stupid?

>> No.2734345

>>2733700
Bump

>> No.2734371
File: 421 KB, 2592x1944, Fo9P2TDWYAInJAd.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734371

question about plumbing and pipes - my house was built in 2004. I imagine the water supply lines are all cpvc. How delicate are these things? I had to replace the supply line from the shutoff valve to the toilet and the line coming out of the wall easily had 1/2" of loose play. I did use this and maybe a hair more to get the hardline out so I could replace it. Did my dumbass just create a leak in the walls?

>> No.2734388

>>2734371
>supply line from the shutoff valve to the toilet
Is the shutoff valve connected to cpvc in the wall?
If it's on a copper line you have copper plumbing.

>> No.2734389
File: 55 KB, 1035x367, make life easy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734389

>>2734371

Just a suggestion.
No pressure on the plumbing.

>> No.2734399
File: 90 KB, 625x839, stuff.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734399

>>2734388
yea just realized I'm an idiot and it's cpvc.
>>2734389
exactly what I used. They had the hardline super fucking long. It went 6" into the toilet. didn't realize I should have just pushed it further into the toilet and force the rubber grommet to move down so I didn't have to move the shutoff valve down a bit to pull it out of the shutoff valve instead. I didn't hear a snap so I guess I didn't crack it and as long as hairline cracks or small drips aren't a thing I'm ok I guess. But i'm not touching this shit again. Read too many horror stories of this stuff just snapping. I just don't get why this supply was so loose from the wall. The others in the house are rock solid.

>> No.2734401

>>2734399
>why this supply was so loose from the wall. The others in the house are rock solid.
The line on this one may come up some distance from the opening in the wall and travel horizontally for a distance while the others rise up directly.

>> No.2734405

>>2734399
>File: stuff.jpg
>>2734399
>yea just realized I'm an idiot and it's cpvc.

It looks like copper with paint and drywall mud on it ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

>> No.2734424

>>2734304
>some decent looking self adhesive vinyl floor tiles

there's no such thing as ''decent'' vinyl flooring in a home.
it screams poverty and desperation.
or that you traveled back in time to 1970.

also, the self-adhesive stuff is gonna become non-adhesive in a very short time.

>> No.2734466 [DELETED] 

i went to pick n pull in the rain in my leather jacket. it was super comfy for being over 1inch rocks and chemical mud paste. now its all dried up on there. how do i wash it?
i figure i would wash it down and rub lotion on it, would that work?

it was way more comfy than a wet hoodie. and i have to go back tomorrow, id like to wear the jacket. should i just wait a day to clean it?

>> No.2734467

i went to pick n pull in the rain in my leather jacket. it was super comfy for being over 1inch rocks and chemical mud paste. now its all dried up on there. how do i wash it?
i figure i would rinse it down with water and a rag and rub lotion on it, would that work?

it was way more comfy than a wet hoodie. and i have to go back tomorrow, id like to wear the jacket. should i just wait a day to clean it?

>> No.2734496
File: 149 KB, 500x500, main.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734496

>>2734228
I have a Weller WLC100 I bought a few years ago.

I regret that I didn't spend more for one with a digital thermostat.
Not enough regret to go out and buy one now though - the WLC100 works well enough for my needs, so I can't justify buying another iron - I just feel that pang of regret whenever I use it.

>> No.2734611

>>2734424
Appreciate your input, I would still give it a go.

>> No.2734618
File: 46 KB, 1000x1000, file.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734618

>>2734496
original anon here. i just went and bought this ~$400 weller unit. its a WS81. i actually went specifically for the analog unit, hoping it would be cheaper than the digital ones. couldve gotten a digital display on the WT1012 for slightly more, or on the WE1010 for less than half.
but i feel like there must be some kind of catch as to why the we1010 costs so much less while seemingly having the same features. sunk cost, but i think im happy with my decision.

>> No.2734771
File: 354 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_20231229_113038.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734771

What screw is this?
Best picture I could take with this potato.

>> No.2734794
File: 266 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_20231229_113115.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734794

>>2734771
This thingy is leaking

>> No.2734810

>>2734771
If I stare at it long enough it looks like a torx. You might need a drill or a grinder.

>> No.2734825
File: 248 KB, 2560x2560, 71TylA4hMjL.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734825

What does it mean is wrong if your ice cubes shrink?
Freezer too hot?
Freezer too cold?
Freezer leaking/bad seal?

>> No.2734845

>>2734611
Generally, you remove the toe molding, lay new floor and then cover up the edge gaps with new or reused toe molding the biggest problem with self adhesive tile is that it gaps over time
That's why LVT locks together at least somewhat
You'll need to cut the tiles perfectly tight to reduce gapping but it will still happen later
Don't ever try to put anything but factory edge against factory edge

The good news is that when your self adhesive stuff fails, you will easily be able to remove it and lay some good stuff

>> No.2734846

>>2734399
That is a compression fitting
You have copper plumbing at least as far as what's visible in that pic
It might be pex in the wall if your home is newer but no way is that cpvc

>> No.2734847

>>2734845
Yeah, the current tiles are 2+ years old now, if they last another 2, or let's say at least 1, it would be great.

>> No.2734848

>>2734106
If that crack doesn't stay in a tight path perpendicular to a wall, that's plaster on your ceiling which is really the only plaster that should always be replaced in a remodel (or at least covered up)
Easiest fix is remove any loose bits and use your figure to massage Alex flex or similar caulking into the crack with a bit extra left on top and then repaint
You can also use presto patch for this

>> No.2734850

>>2734847
With real tile, you can just repair grout with similar color grout and then stain all of it a different color

>> No.2734853

>>2734850
isn't staining also not a permanent solution?

>> No.2734856

>>2734227
Epoxy thickened into a paste with cement dust might work
Hydraulic cement might work
Brick walls are just taking compression from the top
If you're trying to mount something that will put enough shear force on the brick that your old hole is enough to compromise it, you probably shouldn't be doing what you're doing in the first place
You can Mount a large steel plate with connections into other blocks for reinforcement but that's really the only surefire solution

>> No.2734857

>>2734345
As long as you drill into the studs and aren't trying to use anchors that would require piercing the vapor barrier, you should be fine

>> No.2734858

>>2734853
Staining+ sealing regularly is permanent
Nothing is ever permanent without maintenance

>> No.2734860

>>2733952
Lead paint was used till the 70s
The question is when they first painted the stairs as they would have just been wood originally

>> No.2734867

>>2734810
>it looks like a torx. You might need a drill or a grinder.
Yes on the torx - it's going into plastic so it should break loose with just a firm twist using the correct bit/driver.

>> No.2734878
File: 93 KB, 550x733, 3 coats of cement over tile.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734878

>>2734847
>the current tiles are 2+ years old now, if they last another 2

what the what!
are you planning to lay vinyl over tile?
even tho the tile is all full of valleys, i.e. the grout lines.
and so your vinyl is gonna reflect those valleys over time, and thus look awful.
to prevent that you'll need 2 or 3 coats of cement over the tile.

>> No.2734886
File: 26 KB, 399x399, download.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2734886

How in the world do I mop grooved/textured vinyl flooring like this?

>> No.2734891

>>2734825
well if your ice cubes were expanding then that would mean your compressor wasnt doing its job. if theyre now shrinking, maybe the compressor is working too hard?

>> No.2734910

I'm going to install a new shower bar and water mixer, so no heavy stuff. However I have to drill a few new holes for this and it seems I have a drywall, some empty space, and then a brick wall.
The question is what the fuck do I do with the plugs? Should I just use a plug for drywalls and a shorter screw or just say fuck it and use a long screw and screw into the brick wall without a plug? I guess I could use a plug AND screw into the brick wall but not sure if plugs function properly like that.

>> No.2735061
File: 104 KB, 648x525, wall plugs.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2735061

>>2734891
>if theyre now shrinking, maybe the compressor is working too hard?

what? no!
because the defrost cycle removes humidity, the inside of a freezer/fridge is gonna be dry.
which makes moisture leave the ice cubes, and shrinks them. in every fridge.
the only solution is to use it up fast.

>>2734910
>AND screw into the brick wall

you jokin?
there's a million diff plugs, some will hold 100's of pounds.
no need to poke any holes in the brickwork.

>> No.2735110

>>2734878
ah fair point, most of my are also degrouted, I was planning on putting new grout on the shitty tiles. Looks like I will still grout to have it flush with the tile and then prime

>> No.2735118

>>2734886
Lots of cleaning water
>Use a steam mop
Don't do that you'll reactivate the glue and it'll lift

>> No.2735130
File: 32 KB, 500x500, 51vjE5t5PGL.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2735130

if I use this fixed torque wrench (kind of like a t-handle) with a crows foot, does the applied torque change? It's kind of hard to apply the effective lever length here since there's two and they stick out equally from the center.

>> No.2735135
File: 9 KB, 257x257, 7502H_P.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2735135

>>2734910
When you say "some space": how much space? If the board has been fixed directly to the brick (dot 'n dab) then you'll pretty much have to go through to the brick and use a standard rawlplug, with longer screws. If there's 10mm+ between the board & the brick just use a standard board fixing like picrel: the metal ones will hold more than enough weight for your application.

>> No.2735157
File: 303 KB, 655x402, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2735157

>>2731513
how can I unscrew these parts from each other? Its part of a kitchen shower head (no idea what its called in English) and a hose want to screw off the end part but shit is stuck there and only scratches the material. Should I use some citric acid and leave overnight?

>> No.2735176

>>2735135
Haven't really gotten a feel for how wide the empty space is. My impression was that it wasn't terribly wide.
But to sum up, if the space is wide enough I could just use a plug for the drywall and fasten it to the board instead of having to drill and plug into the brick wall?

>> No.2735211

>>2735157
perhaps it isn't intended to come apart.

>> No.2735213 [DELETED] 

i dont want to spend money on green wire, can i just put some green tape over the wire? or will i get sued if the house burns down

>> No.2735215
File: 133 KB, 430x457, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2735215

>>2735211
fucking hell anon you are right holy fuck I am braindead scratched it for nothing...
this chink shitpieace came out without the bottom missing so I thought it was still attached turns out it just went flying somewhere...
fucking hell....

>> No.2735241
File: 39 KB, 480x640, 1679533222050898.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2735241

what's the best way to get rid of these tough stains on laminate(?) benchtops?

>> No.2735242

despite having really nice roller wheels for my computer chair. the apartment I'm in has shit laminate flooring and it's starting to lift where I roll in and out when getting out of chair.
what is a way I can repair it & hopefully make it more resilient?

>> No.2735546

>>2735241
>get rid of these tough stains

sounds incredible but i got rid of some tough stains with just dish soap.
the trick is to cover it in liquid and WAIT 30 mins before wiping soap and stain away.
i tried this strategy after finding that it works on grease stains on clothes.

>> No.2735565

>>2731513
I've got a stupid question.

Where does a city dweller start understanding basic diy stuff if they never had any instruction from high school class? Buy a kit and watch youtube?

>> No.2735577

>>2735565
You will need to study and do something to ensure long term memory for stuff like the math related unit scaling and the proper lingo when talking to people to explain anything. Using "the thing on the other bigger long thing" will just make you look like an idiot.

>> No.2735777

Anyone have a download/torrent link of the 2020 NEC in PDF format?

It'd wild that I can't seem to find a download of the 2020 NEC anywhere. All that's available is the 2017 version, but I need the 2020 for work and those shits took down every download link I've seen.

>> No.2735780

Electron guns shouldn't work.
If electron is nothing but negative charge, as electrons boil off of the filament and leave the gun, into air, there will lesser electrons in the atoms of the gun, giving them a positive charge

The gun should very quickly get so positively charged that either there are no elections left in it or it gets exponentially gets harder to boil off new electrons

>> No.2735781
File: 863 KB, 1080x2400, Screenshot_20231231-215517.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2735781

>>2735780
Pic related

>> No.2735783

>>2735780

couldn't spend 1 minute on wikipedia, but you can waste time in this den of idiots. Or maybe this is your first "high level troll".

After emission, a charge that is equal in magnitude and opposite in sign to the total charge emitted is initially left behind in the emitting region. But if the emitter is connected to a battery, the charge left behind is neutralized by charge supplied by the battery as the emitted charge carriers move away from the emitter, and finally the emitter will be in the same state as it was before emission.

>> No.2735798

>>2734910
I’ve chopped the top ~1/3 off of drywall anchors and the corresponding screw to get them in walls. But if you have brick behind and just some empty space, depending how much, you could use a multi material bit or regular masonry bit and anchor 1/3 into the drywall, then a little bit in free space, and the tip of it in the brick.

>> No.2735825

I bought a house with a porch directly above a basement room. the only thing separating the basement room from the outside are the tongue and groove boards and the frames they rest on.
the porch is in need of repair; the boards on either side are rotting. I can either replace the boards and punt it every 5 years or so, or I can rip the thing apart and put a "roof" of plywood and weatherproof underlayment beforehand, I think.
my question is, is the roof option feasible for someone who isn't handy but can get help? and, how would you stop the porch floor rising the height of the plywood

>> No.2735850
File: 2.76 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_0450.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2735850

How can I save my walls for looking like this? Do I just need to repaint them?

>> No.2735854

>>2735850

It depends on why they look like that. Is it because they were poorly painted, or is something out of the ordinary making them look worse as time goes by. If you can answer this question then you can probably answer your own question.

>> No.2735890
File: 486 KB, 960x1280, IMG_0321.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2735890

Anybody ever cut into stuff for fun to see what’s inside? Didn’t know these were wet.

>> No.2735923
File: 1.01 MB, 2084x2152, 1691282667882.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2735923

I've had an idea to try making a decorative plug as part of a construction project. ideally, the hatch would have a small know like a drawer pull linked to a dual latch system (1) to secure the plug to the cavity. The face diagram (2) would be the finished plug housing the internal mechanism. The cavity itself (3) would have a cutout to hold the latches, of course. I'm by no means a professional, so I may be over complicating the design unnecessarily.

My questions are these:
1. Are there dual cam systems available to further simply the latch mechanism? If so, what would they be called? If not, would it be possible to lay two cams in opposite facing for a similar action?

2. Are there any adjustments one could make to either simplify construction or make it more asthetically pleasing?

Thanks in advance, and apologies for the poor diagrams.

>> No.2735964

What's the best way to cut sub 2" circle out of a 16g stainless drum if there's already a 1" circle inside where I want the new circle? i.e, how do I expand a circlular cut when cutting 16-18g stainless?

>> No.2735967
File: 113 KB, 565x400, axial piston pump swash plate.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2735967

Why can't you shift while moving/under power with a hydrostatic (or really any agricultural/farm equipment) transmission?

My family got an engine powered wagon recently (basically a wagon with a lawnmower hydrostatic transmission). City boy so it's my first time seeing such a transmission, but why do you have to stop completely to shift? Obviously going from forward to reverse would probably blow the relief valve, but I would think that one of the advantages of a swash plate is continuously variable ratios. Coming from an aut/o/mobile mindset, it was pretty awkward to stop to shift every time I got to a hill and wanted more torque, or got to a flat road and wanted more speed.

>> No.2735977

>>2735777
try libgen
i see several results
mike holt's illustrated guide to the 2020 NEC
And an analysis of changes in the 2020 NEC.

But not just the NEC 2020. I see the 2017 NEC as you said.

>> No.2735979

>>2735565
helpx
or one of the other programmes where you pair up with a host. Usually out in the country. Usually a good DIY'r already.

>> No.2735984

>>2735565
Dude, the internet will spoonfeed you pretty much any DIY thing. Watch a Youtube vid, try to gain enough confidence to do it, get the tools and supplies, and watch the video again.

>> No.2735987

>>2735565
Homeowner toolkits are okay if you really have no idea where to start but really, you just buy/get tools as you need them for projects. Literally just Google/Youtube search whenever you need to do/fix/make/build something and see if it looks like something you can do. Repeat a gajillion times over your lifetime and that's how you become a DIYer. Also doesn't hurt to have a friend who's good at these sort of things help/teach you.

>> No.2735992

>>2735964
>What's the best way to cut sub 2" circle out of a 16g stainless drum
easiest? plasma cutter

>> No.2736038
File: 128 KB, 1134x2016, received_1308350733213585.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2736038

Hello, I'm worried I might have just done something incredibly stupid and damaged a very rare and expensive speaker. I have an electrical arc lighter that I was playing with in my room (pic very much related). When I decided to zap a metal chain sitting on my desk. When I did this all my usb attached devices disconnected from my computer and this strange visual distortion consisting flickering static and waves appeared on my monitor. At first I was worried that the current had crossed from the chain and traveled into my desktop. I experimented some and determined this wasn't the case however because the same effects were observed if I stood and held the chain while zapping it. The floor is carpeted and I was wearing socks so it would have been impossible for it to somehow travel down my arm, down my leg, through the carpet and into my monitor,mouse,keyboard, etc, plus I would have definitely felt it traveling.The chain must be producing electromagnetic waves when being zapped by the arc lighter, these waves traveled through the air and disturbed the normal functioning of devices circuits. I'm worried now because after I played with this I noticed my right speaker developed a strange quiet yet noticeable buzzing noise. That speaker no longer plays correctly at all, it sounds almost like when a speaker has been blown out or badly damaged. Bass no longer comes through the right channel at all and the treble is very faint and distorted. I'm worried the EMF waves generated by the chain somehow permanently damaged the crossover circuit inside the speaker box, maybe it damaged a capacitor somehow? Please, I feel like an idiot, I was so baffled at what I was seeing on my monitor that I kept playing with chain and arc lighter that I kept playing with it, I had no idea something like this could potentially happen. What do I do? How do I trouble shoot this issue? These speakers are incredibly rare and high quality and I've cherished them for years.

>> No.2736046

>>2736038
Trouble shoot: plug speakers into something not your laptop

>> No.2736057

>>2735987
Pretty much and there's plenty of advice on basic tool kits every DIYer should have. It doesn't take a huge initial investment. The custom of buying a tool no matter how trivial per payday is wisdom for the ages.

>> No.2736101

>>2736038
It's more likely that you've damaged the audio section on the computer.

Try plugging the speakers into something else & see if they sound ok.

>> No.2736154

>>2735565
ask your dad

>> No.2736156

How close to some mature trees can I pour a concrete slab, about 16×24? Do those plastic root guards actually work, or are there any other similar products that do work?

>> No.2736204

>>2735783
That can't be true. Imagine an electron gun floating in space. It'll fire all the electrons of of it including those in battery. The battery will only delay the inevitable by making more electrons available to be fired off The whole thing has to be grounded. This whole thing confuses me since CRT tvs can be found to be battery powered. Sure in atmosphere, it can get away by making air around it positively charged.

>> No.2736229

>>2736204
That's called an ion thruster. They're very high efficiency it's great

>> No.2736260
File: 236 KB, 1041x1328, Screenshot_20240101-121920.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2736260

How hard is it to install one of these from scratch in a new location?

A large attic space that is only accessible from a closet 2x2 hole to put one of these in like the whole way or something.

Do I have to have special consideration as to where I'm putting it in or can I frame it out on any spot where there's ceiling?

>> No.2736263

>>2736260
The manual fornwhatever your lookin at will list swing and opening dimensions. You need to allow a lot more than you think for opening.

I put one in my hallway and it opens into the door for another bedroom. I hot a wooden one because I knew I'd have to modify it

Check youtube for install guides.

>> No.2736346
File: 100 KB, 1222x603, 1704143368591.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2736346

>>2736156
>How close to some mature trees can I pour a concrete slab

https://www.startpage.com/do/dsearch?query=How+close+to+some+mature+trees+can+I+pour+a+concrete+slab

>> No.2736353

I live beside a very narrow road and cars honk all the time because they don't know how to give way to traffic coming downhill. I want a wireless speaker I can place on my property facing the road that I can either send a pre-recorded message through at the push of a button wirelessly letting them know if they stuck to the road rules they wouldn't have to honk like retards. Ill keep googling but some ideas would be good

>> No.2736359

>>2736353
>What is a bluetooth speaker and a voice memo

>> No.2736364

How easy would it be to theoretically build a good air gun using store bought components, a welder and without an access to a lathe and a mill? Something like tikhar from metro

>> No.2736387
File: 2.31 MB, 4048x1575, 1510837992680.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2736387

Here from /k/. Have a shotgun that's had the wood lazily refinished. There's varnish on bit of the nickel plated steel receiver, what's the best way to remove this without damaging the finish?

>> No.2736396

if you use a heavy filler sandable type of primer in a rattlecan, should you sand it regardless before painting?

>> No.2736494

>>2736396
I would
It never lays quite flat and is prone to pitting

>>2736387
Start with mineral spirits on a trip
Then if that doesn't work, try lacquer thinner but be careful, if your nickel plating isn't real, lacquer thinner will likely damage it

>> No.2736497

>>2735825
I would just wall in the porch with windows and a storm door and then redo the porch floor like a normal floor and insulate it

>> No.2736500

>>2735242
Screw it down and cap it

>>2735130
Use a standard mechanics wrench, put the butt over one side/the whole thing if it's big enough

>> No.2736559

>>2735130
You're pulling on the handle with a crow's foot? Then yeah it shouldn't matter how you're applying force, as long as you're applying it to the handle. As long as you're not applying force directly to the shaft.

>> No.2736560

>>2735242
a bit late now but get one of those office chair mats like they have in office cubicles

>> No.2736685

Any recommendations for a small, altoids tin-sized pack of hex bits that aren't made out of mexican smelted pot metal? I've tried a few small kits out already and even minimal torque has bent the bits

>> No.2736693

How difficult and retarded is it to build a pneumatic tube system? I live in an insulated cabin at the far end of our garden, about 30 yards out from the house. The cabin also has a storage area for random bulk shit, including a fridge. 30 yards isn't a lot but wanting to fetch something from the house (even just a snack or whatever), or the rest of the family needing something from storage, is pretty much a daily occurence.
However I've never heard of anyone building a pneumatic tube system just for different parts of their property, so I assume it's probably way too much hassle to DIY relative to the benefits it provides. Or is it just that you need a person at each end and split properties with people living at both ends aren't frequent enough?

I've got money and free time, but no particular relevant skills.

>> No.2736699
File: 1.07 MB, 1170x2026, IMG_0324.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2736699

>>2736685
Wiha and Wera have a lot of options like that. COO may vary, but the older style rectangle ones from Wiha seem to be still made in Germany.

>>2736693
I’ve always wondered, do those run on compressed air or vacuum?

>> No.2736706
File: 512 KB, 1170x1653, IMG_0325.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2736706

>>2736364
Get a store bought gun that would make a good base and then find a way to fabricate all the aesthetic plastic.

>>2736685
>>2736699
Picrel is the older style German made stuff I believe.

>> No.2736756

My family sent me their old espresso machine, but it doesn't have a water reservoir because it got busted and tossed.
>Oh, just find a replacement, EZ
The thing is, it has been "out of stock" forever, and the "notify me" button 404's when you submit the form.
>https://www.breville.com/us/en/parts-accessories/parts/sp0007885.html?sku=SP0007885

I'm upset that this couple-hundred dollar machine is fucked because its stupid plastic container got cracked. The warranty is absolutely expired and void from the type of damage anyway.
Before I call the customer support line (since the online "chat" option is offline), I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask:
>Is it worth getting a For Parts listing of this clearly deprecated model on Ebay just for the reservoir?
>Are their relatively simple food-safe mediums that I could use to fabricate a new one?
>Why am I like this? Why am I stubborn?
>Am I just being stupid and another model actually has a reservoir that would fit?
>Should I go with the classic brick, some kind of large stone, or opt for spark plug ceramic when I uninstall one of their corporate windows?

I don't understand why Breville gets such sparkling praise.
They're still selling my old-ass model, but the parts have been discontinued.
They don't have specifications anywhere, only stupid user manuals with nothing useful.
They are obtuse about which accessories are usable with which models, and some 3rd party site is the only one that had anything letting you know about the PDCs (product code-stamp-thing hidden on the bottom and unrelated to model or SN) that they reference in half their parts/accessories.
They want you to make an account, but it doesn't do anything for someone like me and is an absolute pain in the ass to get them to delete it.
Honestly, it's up their with one of the worst companies I've ever had to deal with.

I'm losing it, /diy/
I could really use some guidance/advice.
Hell, I'll even take recommendations for new espresso machines at this point.

>> No.2736864

rentlet here:
just got a hole in my ceiling from the rain and about a half gal of water nd some plaster fell on me and my bed. i moved my bed and put a bucket underneath. how does this shit typically get delt with? landlord used to hire chinese people to fix this but now she hired some corporate people to handle everything for her.
does shit like this take a couple hours to fix or do they have to tear y room apart? looks like a 4x8 section is waterlogged and sagging. my tiny room is full shelves covered in hoarder shit, do i need to move it all out for them?

>> No.2736869
File: 92 KB, 831x603, DEWALT MAXFIT Driving Set (16-Piece) DWAMF16.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2736869

>>2736685
>altoids tin-sized pack of hex bits

You didn't specify what screws to fit.
I have this set and it's been great.
3 cross - 3 flat - 3 square - 6 torx (10 - 30) and a bit holder/extension
DEWALT MAXFIT Driving Set (16-Piece) DWAMF16

>> No.2736874
File: 114 KB, 1360x768, MaxFit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2736874

>>2736685
>altoids tin-sized pack

pic for reference

>> No.2736876

>>2736864
Yeah, you need them in there pretty much immediately, regardless of the state of your place. The longer you wait, the longer it may take them to fix the water damage.
You also may be held at fault for damages if it continues to get worse with your knowledge.
It sucks, but you better start getting at that hoard or just buck up, call them, and clean the hoard as they assess the situation. Better to have some rando repairmen think you're a goblin than to be held liable for the bill.
There are certain aspects, like HVAC, that are considered necessities and constitute emergency repairs, and ones that pose a health risk and overall property damage, like water damage, makes it even more of a "fucking fix it now" problem.
Last thing you need right now is to be caught in the middle of a threeway fight between you, your landlord, and your renter's insurance all trying to point fingers because you were secretly too embarrassed to let them see your shelves of anime figures.

>> No.2736879

>>2736864
You're gonna move all you stuff or regret not moving all of it.

>> No.2736882

>>2736876
>>2736879
okay okay, its not a hoard, but it does resemble a fucking storage closet more than a bedroom.
a roommate just moved out so there is an empty room next door, i am chilling in there for the time being. we each rent a bedroom individually to the landlord and share a kitchien/livingroom. its an odd living situation, is there a name for it? everywhere else i have lived has always just been one person putting their name on the lease and renting to friends

i suppose i could ask them not to put someone in this bedroom until the ceiling is fixed. do they need to dig into walls and take my room apart for that kind of stuff?

>> No.2736894

>>2736882
Subletting is usually the name for one person leasing the whole place from the landlord and then turning around and leasing that space to others, it if you're doing it legally.

That's completely beside the point, though. I think you're procrastinating doing the thing by replying and asking more questions.
How they fix it and if they think it went into the walls (which is becoming more likely with every passing hour you don't get them on it), is something you'll have to deal with when they assess it.
I can't see the ceiling or walls through the internet, anon.
They need to fix a leak now, not "eventually before someone else moves in."
If you don't, no one may be allowed to live there. Certain jurisdictions prohibit renting out spaces that are uninhabitable, ie a health/safety risk like a leak, mold, or water damage.
You may not just be on the hook for damages by sitting and staring at it, but completely fucking yourself and anyone still renting in there out of a place to stay.

Move the shit on the ground, tidy the areas under the hole and under spots that look like water has gotten in, and have the landlord or management company find someone to come out the moment you think you're close to preparing the area. If they need to spend a long time at it or if they need into the walls is irrelevant and not under anyone's control, outside of how long you let the damage spread of course.

Afterwards, you can go over and cry with the traps on /lgbt/ that seem to always get themselves into the same shitty "multi-person under one primary leaser" situations in dilapidated houses. They'll be sympathetic to your goblin nest and how scary it is to be an adult.

>> No.2736897
File: 109 KB, 1280x720, maxresdefault.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2736897

the grout at the bottom of my tiles where it meets the tub is starting to crack and disappear.
I was thinking of filling the tub then caulking around edges, but if I wanted to fill the grout, can I do that without removing tiles? what are my options here?

>> No.2736930

>>2736894
>I can't see the ceiling or walls through the internet, anon.
idk, there seems to be a lot of 'ive-seen-everything' types of folks and though they could give me an idea if ceiling leaks are usually just a small one day fix or a big -gotta move out for a while- deal. i guess it can be both and thats why you would need to investigate.

yeah. we each sign an individual month to month rental agreement with the landlord who owns multiple split up houses in the city centre, not the weird crying tranny situation.

>> No.2736956

>>2736930
Reach out to a tenant lawyer or renter's rights attorney, crying tranny or not.
It doesn't cost money to just get in touch with a handful of them.
Better to protect your ass just in case someone tries to blame the dirty month-to-month transient that was living in the room, especially if you've only told them about the issue in-person or over the phone.
If you've got proof of text or email, even better. The legal assistance you find may want to verify that you've clearly laid out the issue at-hand.

Your jurisdiction may have certain other rights and protections granted to you, such as the landlord potentially being required to put you up in another place or hotel if the repair will take too long or the damage is too severe.
If they drag their feet on the problem, you'll be able to get proper compensation in the event your shit is damaged or you get sick, or potentially even being eligible for rent reduction if habitability is affected.
If it's a slumlord situation and they or their current repair/management company are consistently negligent, a class-action like that served up on a documented silver platter would have any legalfag drooling to get their hands on.

>> No.2737041

>>2736897
>I wanted to fill the grout, can I do that without removing tiles?

grout is applied after tiles are glued in place, so of course you dont remove tiles.
grouting is super simple coz you can find hand-squeeze tubes of grout.
you apply just like silicone, then smooth and remove excess with a moist sponge.
that's all you need: one tube of grout, and one sponge.
only difficult part is choosing a matching color.
and cameras dont help coz they see colors diff from your eyes.

>> No.2737044

>>2736882
>it does resemble a fucking storage closet more than a bedroom.

if you have a bathtub, you can hide away a ton of hoarded loot in it.
as long as they dont pull the curtain, you can pass for normal.

also, this idea doesnt often enter people's heads, but when you tilt a bed sideways it creates a huge free space for work to be done.

>> No.2737217

>>2736756
>Is it worth getting a For Parts listing of this clearly deprecated model on Ebay just for the reservoir?
that's what i 'd do, unless you want to crack it open and plumb it to the mains for lulz

>> No.2737239
File: 15 KB, 250x196, file.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737239

Im learning about jewelry crafting and I typically start with a prototype made out of brass. Sometimes the end result is quite nice though. The problem is that it gets pretty ugly when brass oxidizes. Does anyone have any trip or tricks on how to help prevent or slow down oxidation? Keep in mind these things are intended to be handled bare handed and make frequent skin contact.

>> No.2737252
File: 117 KB, 708x750, Screenshot_2024-01-03-11-42-14-443.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737252

Can PVC shower pan liner sheets be joined in a lap joint using PVC primer and cement similar to how PVC pipe is solvent welded?

>> No.2737258

>>2736897
Don't use grout; that's why the grout is falling out to begin with, that seam moves and gets wet and is a common place for subsequent failure.

Tub/tile joints and other inside corners in tiled wet areas use caulk, you can get caulk that is color matched to typical grout colors and even with sand in it to match the texture...though for a repair like that I'd avoid sanded caulk because you want maximum penetration into the gap.

Unless tiles are loose there's no need to remove them...sometimes tilers will set those rows with too small a gap to create a seam with enough meat and contact area to stand up to service without falling out prematurely...if thats the case you might want to apply a bead that isn't just in that narrow groove but overlaps a bit outside that line just to have more surface area to stick to, you can tape off the limits of where you want caulk to go and keep clean lines, just pull the tape before the caulk skins over.

>> No.2737273

>>2736699
>I’ve always wondered, do those run on compressed air or vacuum?
both, apparently
depends on the pump arrangement and whatnot

>> No.2737287
File: 642 KB, 2040x1536, WhatsApp Image 2024-01-01 at 7.41.26 PM.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737287

I'm trying to get this cap off my oil tank so I can insert a smart sensor but the fucker won't budge. I've sprayed some wd40 on it, and I think I should probably find a pipe or something for more leverage. any other ideas?

>> No.2737297
File: 55 KB, 337x290, 1661840534481137.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737297

1. I'm looking for a paper plotter/cutter for making custom boxes with cardstock and other types of paper. All plotters I've seen are for vinyl and thus can let the sheet hang during cutting, and cheap CNCs are too small and it would be wasteful to buy one and just use it with a dragknife. Can I do serious work on a Circut cutter or is it just a Pinterest mom machine? I expect it to be slow and the pieces to be absolutely proprietary. On the other side It can do a bunch of things with a bunch of materials and I am sure I can get it second hand for cheap from a mom who was not able to get her etsy shop running.


2. I'm looking for an under-the-sink water filter, we are only two people in our house but the tap here is also too hard. What should I look for?

>> No.2737298

>>2737287
Have you tries using that ghost key?

>> No.2737303
File: 170 KB, 1079x844, Screenshot_20231129-162647.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737303

>>2737298
I was wondering what that key was for, but I don't see a keyhole

>> No.2737305 [DELETED] 

>>2737303
disregard image

>> No.2737325
File: 1.01 MB, 2126x1956, 1674319326538.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737325

What would be the best way to clean the rust off the rivets on this Zippo, or should I just replace them?

>> No.2737332

>>2737325
That's just surface rust.
Put a splash of vinegar on the rust and rub it with crumpled aluminum foil. Wash it off afterwards.

>> No.2737336

>>2737325
Replacing them risks fucking the holes and to get the right clearance for hinge and wheel will require slow precise crimping (like by arbor or hydraulic press which will need a die or equivalent on either side.

I know the post is a larp but some anons really are that autspergic and others may learn from an accurate reply. The factories spewing out tens of millions of lighters can afford the jigs and fixtures.

>> No.2737345
File: 82 KB, 1001x1001, Dremel Brass Steel Wire Brush Polishing Wheels Full Kit for Dremel Rotary Tool.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737345

>>2737325
>best way to clean the rust off the rivets

this is the best way.
the smaller ones are also great for cleaning battery terminals covered in green goop from a leaky battery.

>> No.2737347

>>2737325
>clean the rust off the rivets on this Zippo
ink eraser

>> No.2737355
File: 225 KB, 1352x491, boat cover frame.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737355

looking to /diy/ a cover for a small fishing boat (16ft long) and I've settled on building a frame that sits on top of the boat that will be covered with a tarp
the issue is I would need the water to run off and not pool on the tarp so a frame to support and give a raised center
what would be the best way to attach boards to the center spar?
preferably so they can be disassembled and reassembled
I was thinking just a couple lag bolts for the fore/aft as those are the simplest, but do I go find some sort of bracket or is there an easy way to join some 2x4's at an arbitrary angle?
I have access to a miter saw

>> No.2737358

>>2737355
>is there an easy way to join some 2x4's at an arbitrary angle?
The roof of practically every house…

>> No.2737359

>>2737358
and those use brackets, and aren't exactly built to be disassembled and reassembled

>> No.2737364
File: 437 KB, 2000x1333, FE856A24-F010-4F59-805B-7FCFFF4F8500.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737364

>>2737359
>brackets
But for real, there’s probably a ton of solutions to make it easy to disassemble. You don’t need to use nails. You could probably dowel the ends and slip them in and use one screw or lag bolt on each to hold it in place. Or cut slots in the boards in a way where you place the center piece in and it holds everything up, so you really only have to secure the middle board that runs the length in a couple spots and be done.

Alternatively while thinking of that, how strong do you need this to be? PVC would be like 10x easier and lighter. The fittings are all on the shelf at Home Depot, glue the pieces you want and everything else will just slip into the fittings. Would probably better than a couple hundred pounds of lumber sitting all high in rough water as well

>> No.2737366

>>2737355
>2x4
Why not get some of those aluminium tubes that push into those plastic joints that cheap shite tiny greenhouses are made with.
16ft of 2x4 will sink you

>> No.2737367
File: 230 KB, 711x1280, E0918ECC-82A7-4696-9BFA-38FBB0A35D5D.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737367

>>2737359
Here’s kind of an idea. But don’t buy a shitty kit. If you go get like 3/4” or 1” schedule 40 PVC from whatever home improvement or plumbing store, it’s actually fairly strong if you have support every 4’ or 6’ maybe. Also it would do better with the water than wood.

>> No.2737374
File: 38 KB, 850x851, 10.-Gerbing-EX-Pro-12V-Heated-Jacket-850x851.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737374

>>2731513
I'm trying to get into making my own custom heated clothing. The electronics/electrical/controls portion is not the problem, rather it's the heating wire elements themselves.
I tried looking online, but I can't seem to figure out how these heating wires work. What I want is heating wire that I can cut to custom sizes. Everything I find online shows they come in standard predetermined sizes without any information about whether I can trim them down to a length of my choosing.
Is there something I should be looking for specifically? Or will any heating wire for clothes work?

>> No.2737379

I am looking to connect a 12mm aquarium tube (1/2”) to a 125mm (5”) PVC tube like the ones you use for sewers. But I can’t remember the name of the thing that connects them. Like where you drill a hole in the PVC tube, screw this part in, and slide the hose over that.

>> No.2737381

>>2737374
It is usually called nichrome wire. Its just melting and oxidation resistant metal wire, so you match the electronics to the length of wire to get the resistance/current/temperature/heat production you want. You can make it like 1000F if you want but you’ll want like 100F and a lot of surface to dissipate the heat

>> No.2737384
File: 87 KB, 746x498, Screenshot_2024-01-03_16-12-09.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737384

>>2737379

a barb fitting sorta matches your description but they screw into other brass fittings, and have pipe threads which are not like normal screw threads. You might be able to tap pipe threads in the pvc after drilling a hole, but that's probably not what you are looking for. It might barely work.

>> No.2737385

>>2732470
5 inches is fucking huge. Here people use 1/2 inch or maybe 3/4 inch black plastic hose, I think it is polyethylene. Even 1 inch will get you plenty of pressure.

>> No.2737393

>>2737381
I heard of nichrome wire before, I had just assumed that stuff was only used in industrial applications for heating pipes and whatnot. That should be easy to work with, just send it a controlled current and limit the max temp.
What sort of jacketing/insulation should I be looking into for this? I guess something thin, high melt temp, and very flexible.

>> No.2737398

>>2736693
Difficult and retarded. Just hang a rope, either in a loop with a pulley at each end (probably better for your case), or fixed with a pulley that runs along the rope and another rope to pull it back and forth.

>> No.2737451

>>2737385
yes it's huge because my spring has huge flow. it literally formed a river.

>> No.2737503
File: 25 KB, 1000x600, conundrum.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737503

I have some land and I need to build a ramp for vehicles to access it. I was thinking of doing a concrete job, but setting up an area for molding without any leaks seems like a pain in the ass. Would throwing gravel on it do a good job? I'm trying to think of cheap options that could be done over a weekend.

>> No.2737531

>>2737451
Don’t disrupt the flow of the entire spring, this is bad for the entire ecosystem around there and can even dry it out over time. Just take what you need.

>> No.2737532

>>2737503
Dig another foot underneath, put in a corrugated drainage pipe, and fill the area around it with earth. There is a reason this is the standard way of doing it.
Concrete might work but if you don’t know how to build forms and how to reinforce it properly then all you will do is throw away a thousand dollars or two.

>> No.2737542
File: 20 KB, 1000x600, plan.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737542

>>2737532
So construct it like this?

>> No.2737544
File: 13 KB, 894x367, 21URR9LVi9L._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737544

anyone ever convert their kitchen lights from this type (the mercury filled shits, t8/t12 that require a ballast) to the LED ones? Any kits or methods you would recommend?

>> No.2737551

>>2737544
Go get the led fixtures. Remove current florescent fixtures and install the led ones. Get warm white.

>> No.2737555
File: 2.20 MB, 3072x3434, IMG_20240103_203238340.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737555

I am trying to replace an aerator. I bought the one on the right, but it is slightly too large. It seemed like everything I saw at home Depot was the same size, 15/16 or 55/64. Can anybody tell me what the proper size I need would be? Thank you

>> No.2737566

>>2731513
Why can't I buy a soldering iron tip that is crescent shaped? I have shaky hands and it would be so much easier if I could just press the wire I am soldering into a crescent shaped or bowled out soldering iron tip. I bet it would have better heat transfer too, as there would be more surface in contact. Or does this exist but is called something else, hence why I can't find it?

>> No.2737575

>>2737252
Bump

>> No.2737594

>>2737239
Wax, clear coating or lacquering, and regular polishing are the only things I can think of that would help. I know it's not much more helpful than a simple google, but it's all I've got.

>>2737355
How easily does it need to be disassembled/reassembled?
Will this be used on the water or to protect it during land-storage on your property?

>>2737566
I'm a little surprised I can't find anything like what you mentioned either, outside of something like hollow point tips. I would posit that it might have something to do with even heat distribution being a pain, but I'm just guessing.
Have you thought about trying to combo helping hands with hot air rework to mitigate needing perfectly steady hands?
Again, just taking stabs in the dark here, lol.

>> No.2737597

>>2737566
I've mostly seen reference to people using various types of armrests, sticking the handle through a tennisball to get an easier grip, or adding weight to their wrist/hand for fighting their shakes, but I've never seen anything about any sort of special tip.

>> No.2737606

>>2737555
Looks like 13/16 is an aerator size
Menards labels it "danco small aerator"

>>2737575
What you use to adhere it would need to be as flexible as the plastic.
I would do silicone if I did something like this


>>2736756
You can buy an espresso maker for $40
Wtf are you doing lmao

>> No.2737611

>>2737606
>13/16
That looks right, thanks

>> No.2737613
File: 83 KB, 720x1280, craftsmanstoolchestelectricalcord.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737613

I hope this is a place I can ask. I have a craftman toolchest, there is a power strip and electrical cord running from the back. Well, someone at work destroyed the plug along with the electrical socket. I had an idea and was wondering if this is fine.


I had an idea to add iec320 c14 electrical panel mount like this one
https://www.amazon.com/FILSHU-IEC320-Adapter-Module-Connector/dp/B085BQ3NWD/

on the back in pic related. Cut the electrical cord wire it in so I can disconnect the power cord if the plug gets damaged again, it can be replaced, or if moving my toolbox at work and store the cord away.

I thought about just snipping the plug and wire a new one, but the cord barely was long enough to reach the electrical box, and I have longer cords at home from multiple computers that I am sure is longer.

>> No.2737615

I'm replacing a thermal fuse in a space heater- would it be a significant risk to use an equally rated non-thermal fuse?
The specific type of fuse can be ordered online, but I could also use an equivalent tube fuse and have it done tomorrow.

>> No.2737673

>>2737594
>Wax, clear coating or lacquering, and regular polishing are the only things I can think of that would help. I know it's not much more helpful than a simple google, but it's all I've got.
still appreciated, thanks m8. I've found a few pages talking about using lacquer but I have no idea about what is and isnt a good idea for something that's intended to touch human skin a lot.
Do you have any experience with wax? it sounds like it'd just come off or potentially leave stains on clothes. If so, lacquer seems like the way to go.

>> No.2737682
File: 88 KB, 547x444, gull wing soldering iron tips for hakko.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737682

>>2737566
>bowled out soldering iron tip

these exist.
they're meant for drag soldering of SMD chips.
if you're just tinning wires, you can also get tiny solder pots.

>> No.2737686

Will my finish turn out semi-gloss, if I use a semi-gloss clear coat over a high-gloss color ground? (both are spray on)

>> No.2737704

>>2737384
Thanks this is pretty much what I want, just need to connect an overflow hose so I’ll go from here and see what I need

>>2737393
You need a lot of heat proof foam/fabric shit first to spread the heat out instead of burning the fabric, some foil or other thermal fabric can be nice.
You’ll want to apply heat to specific areas of the body to make it feel warmer. I don’t know about jacket stuff because I make pillows and shit with it mostly

>> No.2737715

I have a couple of PCBs with hundreds of SMD components on each. I have a re-flow oven. I do not have a solder stencil or the files required to make one. Are there any tools which can take an image of the scanned image of said board and create a solder-stencil, or the SVG/PDF required to create one?

>> No.2737778

>>2737704
>You need a lot of heat proof foam/fabric shit first to spread the heat out instead of burning the fabric, some foil or other thermal fabric can be nice.
That makes sense, something thermally conductive that'll keep the whole piece warm, then I guess insulating exterior layers to keep the heat locked in. I'll have to do some hunting around.
Thank you for the input anon.

>> No.2737803

>>2737613
That would only be an issue if you try to draw over 15 amps from the power strip on the tool chest. If you're comfortable wiring it up, you're good.

>> No.2737910
File: 68 KB, 1891x665, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737910

I have two 5v 1A solar panels connected in parallel that I want to use to charge a powerbank, what kind of control board do I need to protect the battery cells? (The one with ?)

>> No.2737911

>>2737910
actually I'm from western eu and I saw 0.73A, not 1 A on the winter sun a week ago

>> No.2737927

Is there any way I can use my skills with software development and controls to earn a bit of cash on the side? There are some tools that I've been eyeing up, but I'd prefer not to buy them out of my savings.

>> No.2737928

>>2737615
Thermal fuse is to protect against overheating.
Standard glass fuse is to protect against over-current.
Don't risk your life and property for the sake of a shortcut.

>> No.2737932

Should I use tung oil to finish ebony?
I feel like sanding to 240 grit was all my headphone cups needed in terms of looks, but maybe they'll become dirty or less pretty over time if I don't apply some sort of finish.

>> No.2737958

>>2737910
>>2737911
Do they put out 5V steady with the sun? Current doesn’t really matter. The power bank has all the protection for the battery, hooking the panel up to the + and - of a USB cable going into the power bank’s input will probably work just fine if you’re getting 5V but varying amps from the solar panel wires.

>> No.2737959
File: 386 KB, 651x627, 22.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2737959

>>2737910
if you mean an actual usb power bank with charging circuit and not a homemade 5v battery pack, then you need a solar to usb 5v fixed power regulator module with a minimal input of 5v for those panels (most require about 6v).

>> No.2737961

>>2737959
or connect the panels in series so you can throw 10v if you can't get to stable 5-6v but with half the amps. so if the voltage drops below 10v it will still charge though slower. that regulator in particuclar admits up to 20v

>> No.2737962

>>2737958
I didn't see any fluctuations from my test but I expect if there are clouds that there could be fluctuations, I think I saw 4.98 V

>> No.2737963

>>2737959
>>2737961
thanks for the reply anon, I will think about wiring them in series, really unfortunate because I wired them really good already...

>> No.2737968

>>2737962
I would check, because you could get 5V and like 0.1A with some clouds and close to 1A with good sun.

But sort of what other anon said. There are tons of protection boards if you have lithium cells, but an actual powerbank has the stuff built in, so you just need to keep it around 5.0V going into the USB In + and - pins of the powerbank.

If you ended up with 8-10v doing it in series, then you could try a buck converter and tune it down to 5V. And there’s lots of boards that are set up for 5VDC output and whatever 5+ input because it’s so common for people trying to get 10VDC-14VDC down to 5VDC. But you may not even need it if the solar panel gives you at least mid 4’s voltage with partial sun.

>> No.2737971

>>2737968
thanks for the reply anon! after reading a bit about buck converters I think that's what I'm going to use, I don't want to rely on the quality of the internal board of the powerbank as I got them cheap and most probably they are not the best kind.

>> No.2738059

>>2737803
I have a m12/m18 charger connected, and I use the two usb ports to charge my phone and bluetooth speaker. I checked out the operators manual here
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/48-59-1812

and it seems on 120AC input voltage, it draws 2.1 Amps. So it seems I may be fine, thanks!

>> No.2738061
File: 1.18 MB, 1399x1322, IMG_20240104_203026.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2738061

>>2737606
>>2737252
Found this.

>> No.2738067

>>2737686
Yes. Let the first coat dry and sand it before applying the second coat.

>> No.2738127
File: 3.20 MB, 2822x2117, 1704427792371.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2738127

Pre-Acknowledging that this is retarded...
Painting, previous owner was useless and seems to have painted with a splatoon gun.
Can I use a hand planer to flatten the highspots and knock all the drops off?
>don't want to power sand because it's lead paint
>cbf wet sanding this much
>cbf stripping because its inside
I'll probably primer then skim coat filler lowspots then primer again + sand to finish afterwards

>> No.2738138
File: 96 KB, 1300x964, 62121489.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2738138

>need to permanently disable a locking door
>don't want to bolt it shut
>don't want to replace or repin lock
>superglue and killer key in the lock aren't that secure
>know nothing about locks so idk how to disable the mechanism
Any idiot-proof solutions? Soldering the lock maybe but I think it'd make a mess.

>> No.2738165
File: 33 KB, 869x570, toenailing.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2738165

>>2738127
>hand planer to flatten the highspots

it's a beautiful texture, anon, leave it alone.
why make it weary, stale, flat, and unprofitable?

>>2738138
>Any idiot-proof solutions?

you can toe-nail it.
but use screws so it can be undone in minutes when there's a fire.
also, it's best to screw it sideways into the jamb, rather than down in to the floor.
that makes it easy to camouflage the holes if you change your mind.

>> No.2738236

Good programs that let me draft out any potential 3d models for woodworking?

>> No.2738302

I want to finish my basement before I sell my house. Code says it needs to be at least 7' to finish a basement, but it's 6' 8" from the basement floor to the bottom of the floor joists. If I don't put in a drop ceiling, then the height is 7' to the top of the floor joists. Should I just not finish the basement, not put in a drop ceiling, or fuck it and do both because someone probably won't can't about that extra 4 inches?

>> No.2738312

>>2738302
>someone probably won't can't about that extra 4 inches?

codes literally exist for no other purpose than to extract fines from citizens.
of course they'll care. it's all they care about.

>> No.2738326

>>2738312
I calculated the square ft of my main floor and this part of the basement is technically included in the "livable space" calculation. It's an old house, so maybe it was considered fine at one point and no one has questioned it.

>> No.2738364

I bought a second hand air compressor. I head and feel it leaking quite a bit around a screw fitting that turns an L-elbow between the compressor proper and toward the regulator/tank.
I suspect I just need to tighten everything up a bit. But I don't want to make a stupid mistake. Any gotchas? Washers someplace I really ought to be replacing? Should I be cleaning and oiling these fittings for a seal? Teflon tape? Should I be extra careful about torque?
Pressure vessels make me super nervous in general. I don't wanna fuck this up and wind up with anything from ruptured eardrums and a hole in my roof to becoming a smear with a piece of jagged tank wall out of what's left of my rib cage.

>> No.2738580

>>2731513
I have all this scrap from a big bedroom MDF cabinet I want to make smaller cabinets for toolboards and cleaning supplies, and I can grant you I'll fuck up cutting or measuring or do it a size too large to fit in the doors. To make things worse, my cutting tool is a jigsaw (that I'm already raising the boards for the ruler contraption that stabilizes jigsaw cuts I don't know the name in english), so I wish to have some education before starting to plan the pieces and start cutting instead of learning by mistakes and figure things out as I go, mainly because I don't want to get more scrap. Would you guys kindly help me to find good sources about how to properly develop a cupboard? Thanks

>> No.2738801

I want some small sheet of malleable metal I can hammer in to a broad hook shape and drill a hole for a screw. Probably something like 50x25mm. What kind of material? Brass, I'm guessing? Where would I get such a thing?

>> No.2738829
File: 237 KB, 1080x2400, Screenshot_20240106-114610_Brave.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2738829

What's the difference, besides cost of parts BC847B and BC847C? N.B. the b or c at the end. The application is an analogy synth. Thanks. The price.difference isn't an issue/concern.

>> No.2738859
File: 28 KB, 1034x393, b and c.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2738859

>>2738829
>What's the difference

come on, nigger.
you never heard of datasheets?
or google?

>> No.2738881

>>2738859
I don't know what that is telling me. I'm just trying to order the BOM for a PCB. The associated documents don't specify b or c.

>> No.2738885

>>2738859
>The associated documents don't specify b or c

then it doesnt matter.
you can get the no-suffix one, or A,B, or C

>I don't know what that is telling me

it says the A one has a guaranteed gain of 110 (just like the no-suffix one), the B guarantees 200 gain, and C guarantees 420.
gain means it can amplify a signal UP TO that much.
but, generally, designs wont use all the gain that a transistor can provide, so you can often substitute a lower spec one, and it'll work the same.

>> No.2738918

>>2738885
Thank you anon, for the answer and explanation

>> No.2738971

>>2732592
You are right that the keyboards of different laptops use different pinouts / converters. There are well-documented projects for converting thinkpad laptop keyboards to USB. I would start there. I doubt the tester will do what you want it to do, having gone down this road before myself. Could be wrong though.

>> No.2738972

>>2734228
I would get one of the aliexpress JBC station clones. Check the reviews on youtube, they are compatible with original JBC hotends too. If you don't know JBC stuff is the high-end, better than weller/hakko. I haven't checked the prices in a bit but last I checked they were sub-$150. The electronics / soldering threads here will have rec's too but that will be one of them.

>> No.2738975

>>2738972
already got a weller in the meantime. WS81, nice and square, easy to store in a box.

>> No.2739044
File: 225 KB, 1024x683, Marmota_monax_UL_04.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2739044

This thread is going to archive.
It is well past the bump limit.
Post questions in the new thread. >>2739042

>>2739042

>> No.2740069

>>2732592

I bet if you take it apart, and follow the keyboard ribbon cable to where it connects to the motherboard and then keep following the tracks, you'll find they terminate into a PS2 IC controller of some kind.

Then, look up the numbers on that IC, get it's pinouts, and from there you can work to connect the keyboard ribbon cable wires to the correct input on a similar PS/2 to USB converter. make sense?