/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Bump
Thanks for the thread.

I made this to hold tattoo ink caps. The caps have a flat rim on the bottom, the print has a bottom part with slots for those rims and a top part that snaps on to the bottom part and presses the top of the rims to hold the caps in place. The caps have a reasonable friction fit in the bottom part so I may focus on a single part solution in the next iteration, but I do like the top part making them absolutely unmovable for when you want to make sure they don't move while tattooing.

Can 3dprinted weapon be safe and dont blow up?
or its just /k/ copium?

>>2689653
Yes, they're common and popular and a hell of a lot of fun. Go ask over on /k/, can't talk about them here.

great model by neko figurines.
is there a place to find good 3d artists for printing among the crap of the websites?

>>2689661
You're in the wrong thread. >>>/tg/3dpg

>>2689650
very nice anon

Is there a better OnShape tutorial series other than TeachingTech?

Are 3D printers one of those markets where it's really worth waiting for Black Friday sales?
I want to buy my first 3D printer, leaning toward a Sovol SV06. I'd like to get it sooner rather than later, but I'm not in any rush. I'm curious what people think it might go down to on Black Friday.

>>2689774
keep track of the prices. I wouldn't be surprised if they up the price for a few weeks then put it back to regular price and act like its on sale.

Designed and printed some phone handset/handset holders for work
This is the last one I needed. They're helping keep my telecom lab area a bit tidier at work, and my coworkers have given some nice compliments

I usually only print things I design and to fill a specific use case or problem. I never bothered with printing trinkets or ornaments to just sit and look pretty. Seems like just dust collectors to me. Because of this, I never strongly cared about the finish of my 3d prints. I tuned the printer to be reliable, which it is and I never get a failed print

I really love ancient history and architecture/artefacts and recently found Scan The World and thought how cool it would be to print my favorite statutes and monuments to admire them day to day. So I have started my first ornamental print. It's halfway done and I am not that impressed with the quality and realise I really need to spend some time tuning my printer to get a good quality and not just reliability

I'll post my print when it's done in another 12 hours and hopefully you guys have some tips on how to improve the imperfections so I can get a better finish

>>2689803
>hopefully you guys have some tips on how to improve the imperfections so I can get a better finish
Going slow on the perimeters is a big one

>>2689807
How slow?
I'll check and post my print settings when I post my finished print, but I thought I was pretty slow

>>2689814
Depends on a variety of factors. Generally, slower for flat/smooth surfaces where irregularities are easy to see, or where there are things like overhangs that make printing more difficult. Filament also matters. Glitter/composite-filled/matte filament hides irregularities better than gloss, which hides irregularities better than silk. Ballpark, maybe a half to a quarter what gives you nice utilitarian prints. Also pay attention to seam location. It may be worthwhile to manually restrict it, especially on complex parts where the slicer may not put everything out of the way reliably.

Can anyone tell me what is causing these indentations in the first layer? From what I read it means my z-height is too low or overextrusion?

I just did another first layer calibration and I am happy with it. What is a good baseline to use when adjusting extrusion?

>>2689825
Maybe bumps in your V rollers, causing the nozzle to be closer to the bed in some positions. Compare the distance between the indentations with the effective rolling circumference of the rollers. If this is the case, replace your rollers or swivel them so their flat points doubt coincide with each other. Otherwise it might be imperfections in your bed, like grit underneath it that pushes it up a bit. Possible with spring-steel or whatever, not with glass. Might also be a resonance if your hot end was moving somewhat fast.

>>2689825
If its only happening in certain sections, could be that your bed is uneven on those sections. Try printing just one layer multiple times and see if it shows up in the same spot.

>>2689517
Don't worry, despite longer discussions in other forums, machine oil will be just fine in a relatively low pressure environment like an 3d printer.

>>2689825
i theorize it's a nozzle problem. i mean probably unlikely if you have a new nozzle, but when i've seen shit like that in my head it would make sense that maybe some shit in the nozzle (or maybe in the filament) caused some weird extrusion and that error gets sort of carried over until it merges with the normal stuff.

like, maybe one line is slightly too far to the right, and now the next line you lay down is pushed to the right from that one, and so on, with the error gradually reducing with each new line.

just a theory.

>>2689825
>I just did another first layer calibration and I am happy with it. What is a good baseline to use when adjusting extrusion?
>>2689885
also
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/misconceptions.html#tuning-extrusion-multiplier-by-measuring-1-2-cube-walls

i like this guy's take on how to calibrate your shit.

i usually print little squares, 1mm thick, so 5 layers high. usually 10x10mm

when you get your first layer pretty good, you can dial in your extrusion by checking the top surface layer of those 5 layer squares.
if the top surface is overextruded, then reduce your multiplier. etc.

>>2689836
Wouldn't a roller problem cause defects all across the object at a given X coordinate?

>>2689671
Reloading the gcode I exported from cura back into cura it's showing up as exactly 1,000 layers, which should be exactly correct at .2mm layer height (and .2mm initial layer height of course) so theoretically the problem shouldn't be on the software's end, even though that would've made more sense since other parts don't seem to have this height issue. It's something I hadn't yet double-checked though, so thanks for the suggestion, it at least ruled one more thing out for me.

>>2689908

Man I am not sure then, I know there is some increase z height but not 2mm more.

Whats the model? There isn't anything on the model that makes it look obvious that it increased in 2 mm?

Also, does cura say what the height is at each layer in gcode preview?

What is the value of the solid layers for bottom and top in your slicer profile? I don't think this would cause it, but figured I would ask.

I think I can get one of these (refurbished) for a hundred dollars or so. What's /3dpg/'s opinion on the Snapmakers, the mini in particular?

>>2689930
Cute, a little dumb, if you can get one for that price I can't complain. Like anything else made to do a little bit of everything, it ends up being not so great at any of those things. Still, they're neat, and I'm certain it'd be fun in the hands of someone who can take advantage of it. If it's your first printer or something oh fuck no don't do that to yourself.

how come 90% of 3d printer problems occur on ender 3s?

>>2689964
Because 90% of 3d printers are ender 3s

>>2689966
sauce?

>>2689968
Blow it out your ass, euro

>>2689969
rent free
i don't even live in the northern hemisphere

>>2689926
Nothing visually obvious no, it's basically one face of a large cube, and the other sides all came out inscale with each other except this one. Cura doesn't say the layer height when I load the gcode, but I can see it's definitely 1,000 layers set to .2mm before it exports and still 1,000 layers when I import it back so I can't imagine how it'd have changed the layer height. I don't think top/bottom layer count should affect it, but I have it at 7, which is the same setting it was at for the other parts which - as far as I can measure - didn't come out with this height error.

>>2689970
Even worse, a shitskin

Is there a way to print without stringing using an Ender 3 S1 Pro, 0.6 tungsten steel nozzle, and PLA+? I've tried adjusting:
>Retraction Distance
>Retraction Speed
>Travel Speed
>Outer Wall Wipe Distance
>Combing
>Z Hop Enable/Disable
>Different Print Speeds
>Different Temperatures
No combination of settings changed how plastic was pulled out of the nozzle during the travel move.

How long until we get good Bambu clones?

>>2689973
Did you try drying the filament?

>>2689975
Yes, the filament is dry and there is no popping or surface bubbles. I also changed the printer settings so that higher speeds were possible. I'm going to try the 0.4 tungsten steel nozzle and see if the stringing issue persists, otherwise I'll just concede that printing PLA+ at 0.6mm without strings is beyond my ability.

>>2689972
>mutt calling anybody a shitskin
lol

>>2689950
I mainly want it for PCB milling and drilling, it should be rigid enough for that. Might try to attack aluminium with it, but chances are I'll go to EDM for any serious home shop metal fab.

Isn't a four start lead screw rather undesirable compared to single start one?
Anycubic meganon here, my first upgrades arrived, but I ordered my pom nuts by just measuring pitch. Now I realized they used a 4 start screw instead of a single start one. However I can't figure why that would be done to begin with. Quicker Z hops?

>>2689996
And faster Z travel in general. 3D printers generally don't need the increased mechanical advantage/precision of a single-start leadscrew. To my knowledge, 4-start is pretty standard.

>>2689973
Okay, I have to have something wrong to not only still have stringing, but to also print mostly intact towers with this much coasting...

>>2689803
Righto, it's finally done (one of the Lamassu statues carved around 860 BCE)
Not too displeased with it, but the obvious layer shifts kinda annoy me, especially the one on his face. I need to eliminate these before I do a print of the Rosetta Stone

Any tips people can give for better quality prints is much appreciated!!!

>>2690033
Here's a pic of the Ender 3 setup with some mods. And here are the print parameters that I used for the print. If there is anything glaringly wrong or missing hopefully a kind anon will point it out
>Layer height: 0.12
>Wall count: 4
>Infill: cubic, 30%
>Print temp: 210 C
>Bed temp: 60 C
>Print speed: 50
>Travel speed: 175
>Initial layer print speed: 20
>Initial layer travel speed: 80
>Support: tree, touching build plate
>Material used: ePLA
>Nozzle: 0.4mm
Some things I'm considering are a slower print with a 0.2mm nozzle. I'll probably do stiffer bed springs because I'm running stock springs that give bed wobble. For the layer shifts im gonna clean the z screw properly and lube it for the first time in its long life

Been thinking about an enclosure to help my petg prints, not sure if it will help this print

>>2690033
is the head supposed to look like a dick?

Printing with rubber is the coolest shit like what lmao this is nuts.

I just installed an all metal heatbreak on a stock ender 3, thing is the nozzle sits lower than before and I'm concerned the blower fan blows on the nozzle instead of the part, any recommended alternate fanducts/blower mods? I saw a modded satsana with adjustable height but asking for opinions here

I'm assuming if my nozzle temp is jumping wildly (30-50+ degrees) in seconds as soon as the head starts moving it means the wire's damaged or the connection's been ruined at one of the ends right

>>2690137
Almost certainly.

>>2690137
Without a doubt

I have some old resin, how do I know if it's bad?
I kept it in the dark all this time, not sure if that helps
What's the worst that can happen? It just won't solidify or can it break my printer?

>>2690212
Shake it, shake it a lot, a shitload. Pour a little bit into a small sacrificial container, like the lid of a plastic bottle. Small amount like a 2-3mm thick layer. Is it goopy/gritty/"hairy"? If not, awesome, let it sit for a half hour and see if it's separating. Still looks okay, nothing obviously weird? Stick it out in the sun for a few minutes, enough to let it cure all the way through. Does it cure? Does it turn to sticky yellow goo? Does it sort of cure in a layer on top but not all the way through? If it cures through and hardens, then it sounds like it's fine. Always, always filter when pouring to or from a bottle, new or old, it's fucking gay to have prints ruined by a little tiny glob of partially cured resin or a single fucking hair that made its way where it doesn't belong.

>>2690219
Thanks anon, cured up pretty well but looks ugly
Are those just air bubbles because I shaked it like crazy? Hopefully they'll go away if I wait?

>>2690235
>Are those just air bubbles because I shaked it like crazy?
Probably. It's always hard to tell from a photo but it doesn't look like anything distinctly terrible.

Every youtuber is a Bambu shill.
I swear to fucking god I'll just be watching a non-3D printing related video from some electronics or woodworking person and I'll see that fucking aluminum box in the background.
This is not organic fucking growth, they're on the chink's payroll.
Those used to be MK3's in those spots. And they're getting rid of all of them. This is not organic.
I have no fucking clue how a closed source piece of chink shit that steals your data by sending it to chinese servers is on every fucking person's desk.
They're all bots and shills, even "Le Mythbusters Adam Savage" because fuck you, nothing "just works"
Fucking stop saying that, you Apple-sucking shills.

>>2690267
This might suprise you, but most normal people don't care about open source vs closed source

Every youtuber is a Prusa shill.
I swear to fucking god I'll just be watching a non-3D printing related video from some electronics or woodworking person and I'll see that fucking orange cunt in the background.
This is not organic fucking growth, they're on the Czech's payroll.
Those used to be MakerBot's in those spots. And they're getting rid of all of them. This is not organic.
I have no fucking clue how an "opensource" piece of shit that steals your money and uses to it buy beard oil and Haribo stocks is on every fucking person's desk.
They're all bots and shills, even "Le Mythbusters Adam Savage" because fuck you, nothing "just werks"
Fucking stop saying that, you Apple-sucking shills.

I wish CF PLA was more useful than regular PLA

>>2690267
It works
It's fast
It's competitively priced
It handles most anything you put into it
All the open-source evangelists have to do is make a printer that is competitive.

Go ahead and lay out actual resoanble excuses as to why that can't happen and maybe you'll have a point.

Every youtuber is a Creality shill.
I swear to fucking god I'll just be watching a non-3D printing related video from some electronics or woodworking person and I'll see that fucking black aluminum bitch in the background.
This is not organic fucking growth, they're on the chink's payroll.
Those used to be Anet's in those spots. And they're getting rid of all of them. This is not organic.
I have no fucking clue how a discount piece of chink shit that burns your house down is on every fucking person's desk.
They're all bots and shills, even "Le Mythbusters Adam Savage" because fuck you, nothing "just wurks"
Fucking stop saying that, you Huawei-sucking shills.

I just want to fucking print.

>>2690267
seething brown hands wrote this post

Sometime in the past 24 hours since I posted >>2689774, the price of the SV06 went down $20
I manifested this

>>2690053
There are other examples with different headdresses (slightly less penisy) and different head positions
I was happy to print this version, because it's like one of the ones that ISIS destroyed

>>2689774
Depends. I've purchased sale printers before, it seems to me around half of those ones I received were returns/b grade units sitting in warehouse somewhere. Hell, the sale Artillery Sidewinder I received had rusty screws all over it out of the box, lol.

>>2689596
Are there any chinese high precision fdm printers out there? I'd like something on the smaller side, but the most important part is that it has the potential for very high precision parts.

>>2689836
>>2689837
>>2689885
>>2689887
I appreciate the help. I think I managed to fix the problem by increasing my temperature. The filament is shiny silk pla with the sparkly shit in it. It was giving me major adhesion problems, but works now. No smudges either.

Any recommended brands for Resin if I wanna print plastic butts?

Following along the Teaching Tech tutorials and got to the fidget spinner portion.
Holes a smidgen too small and the bearings pretty old and the grease was eh.
but I learned about rotational patterns and some other tools so all is well.

>>2690272
is that the big man himself chewing toe gunk?

>>2689650
Would you be able to elaborate a little on how those clips are designed? Have been wanting to add a "clip" function to a number of things but havent begun yet to research how I'd go about doing it

https://youtu.be/I7hsUvZmZ2k?feature=shared&t=234
watching this and this has to be the coolest way of using 3d prints as molds i've seen

>>2689975
It was still stringing even when using a 0.4 brass nozzle, then it started popping near the end despite drying out a few days prior. Seems like the filament was just too old. Oh well.

>>2690451
>despite drying out a few days prior
Some filaments can pick up enough moisture to make a difference in a few hours. PLA doesn't pick up enough to outright ruin prints like some other plastics, but it can pick up enough to mess with print quality rather fast depending on things like local humidity and the specific formulation of the filament. I store filament in airtight boxes (actually airtight) with desiccant at 10-15% humidity. This can keep them not just string-free but ooze-free, at least initially. The difference after several hours of open air exposure is usually clear, even for PLA. A printing drybox would be good for lengthening the usable printing time before needing to re-dry spools, but that's a project for another time.

>>2690361
Resin printing as a whole is ass to do, but my Elegoo Saturn was easy as it can be.
I mean I haven't resin printed in months because it's an absolute pain in the ass.
But Elegoo made it simpler.

Sorry, I'm just passing by.

Is there any general for scale models?

>>2690510
Scale models of what is a better question if there's a general for it

What the fuggggggg
Is this because the cooling fan is on?

>>2690512
no it's because you held your phone upside down

>>2689596
Does anyone of you has tried yet the Creality K1? I kind of want to buy it but since I come from a shitty XYZprinting Davinci 1.0 I don't know shit about latest 3d printers

>>2690522
>:(

>>2690512
Yeh. Corner lifting is always because that bit cooled off faster than the rest.

>>2690524
Webm aside, he seems to like it.

>>2690524
if you root it like aurora tech. but it ships with a weird creality version of klipper

Humor me
What's stopping you from making an insanely hot hot-end and using flux core welding wire as filiment?

>>2690532
>root it
Holy shit I didn't even know Creality already released the source, that's fantastic

>>2690538
It requires fucking 550 °C to melt, you'll need to encase the extruder in a sturdy material that can withstand such temperatures. I'm willing to bet that in an enclosed FDM it'll be even more troublesome due to such high temps.
then there's the cooling part, you'll need to cool it fast enough for it to not lose shape.

>>2690542
The actual extruder can be far the fuck away from the hotend. It would be trivial to make a bowden type setup as flux core welders already operate in that way.
Cooling would be an issue tho

>>2690529
Is that an argument pro or against it?

>>2690543
water cool it
ez

>>2690543
>>2690542
>>2690538
And how do you expect to make something with it? It's a weld puddle, not a 3d printer plastic filament. You would also need a software program to compensate for deviations in weld width and whatnot.

>>2690524
Like all Creality printers, it's got horrible quality control issues and distinct design flaws that make it considerably worse than the printers it's trying to imitate. In the hands of an enthusiast it's a great pile of parts for a "decent" price, but I'd never actually recommend one to someone as a printer.
Maybe if they drop the price another $150+ USD, but at this price point it's laughably bad in my opinion.

>>2689668
Just start doing, there's no need for tutorial. Inbuilt help is good.

>>2690538
It'd be easier to do it with soldering wire

>>2690547
Overall a pro. I mean it's creality, so you'll likely run into issues down the road and you'll finish building the printer for them.

I can report back that these fake cht nozzles from Aliexpress actually work.
I went from 13mm3/s max flow to 16mm3/s on my crappy extruder. I wouldn't dare to do really big prints on them though

>>2690543
>>2690538
What a coincidence, I was actually working for a welding dude who was investigating such a thing, here in the netherlands, in limburg, I forgot the exact name of the company. The dude is slightly insane though. Apparently one of the big problems around that is also regular atmosphere, as in oxygen, it has to be printed in a special chamber I think, or something gay like that. I saw it briefly up close as I wanted to maybe be employed there, but as I said, the dude is insane. Is a welder for the local nato base.

Just finished the OpenRC F1 by Daniel Noree. It was a super fun build that I would recommend to anyone. The end product is not nearly as good as my traxxas (until i print some mods maybe?) but it is a functional RC that i made from scratch so thats pretty cool.

Is there a better way to visualize wikimedia's stl library?
It's really cool but it's kind of annoying scrolling thru several gb worth of genitalia and entire renders of clouds to find something printable

I have a weird issue right now, my exterior wall is not glued to the center=. There is always like some straight line that I can peel off like an onion almost. Any recommendation to get rid of it? Tried to change wall flow, temp. The rest is totally solid, but the exterior wall is somehow not stuck to the rest of the print? Moving the wall flow to 102 and temp to 200 helped a little bit it seem, but it's still unglued a little on my second try

This part just broke and now it's grossly underextruding, Will it go away if I ignore it?

>>2690689
that entire thing is underextruded, look at how you can see through the first layer to the second layer.

>>2690701
clamp it together and print a new one, extruder arms are one of the first thing i print on a new machine

>>2690707
The filament just doesn't go in, If I try to force it them it just separates it more

>>2690689
under extruded like other anon said. check your flow rate and nozzle.
if it persists there is a setting like "wall overlap" for infill in most slicers that should address exactly this issue (never tweaked it though)

>>2690689
CALIBRATE YOUR E-STEPS
AND DON'T FORGET TO SAVE THE SETTING

>>2690736
Why? Calibrating e-steps is a crutch. You do it only for the stepper motor, which comes pre-calibrated.
Learn how to troubleshoot hardware before you try to half-ass some software.

>>2690723
I changed my nozzle recently and my flow is 95%, I saw some people say to set your nozzle to a bigger one? like I'm using a 4 right now and so to go for a 4.5?

>>2690744
Set your flow rate back to 100, thats your problem unless im missing something, why did you lower it?

Anyone here run a print farm? Been 3d printing off and on for the past 10+ years and the price of filament has come down considerably. The quality of printers and their print speed has increased a huge amount also. These printers are also dirt cheap.

Im in the process of hopefully starting a new business around a product im developing, and im not quite sure yet of the demand. Five years ago you would have to basically manufacture your consumer product out of injection molded plastic. Now with the quality, speed, and price of 3d printing it seems like its an actually good option unless you end up needing to produce a ton of units fast and cheap. I imagine the tooling for my product would be around $100k+ and after that, you cant really do revisions easily and the parts would need large runs and shipping + lead time which ties up a lot of capital and time.

I could get 25 bambu P1S for $17,500 and scale up or down depending on demand. Much cheaper than molds and have the ability to manufacture on demand and iterate on the design. Anyone have experience with this? Seems like I can get a working product out the door and scale based on demand as opposed to the previous route which was dump $200k into the business and hope it works before you sell a single unit.

>>2690810
What's your product?

>>2690810
Wanted to add to my post by saying I have been using the bambu p1p pretty heavily for months now and the quality and speed is really good without doing any tweaking. I think with some design tweaks of the final product, some post processing, and maybe creating custom support parts that mitigate support waste that I can get pretty cost competitive with injection molding, and maybe even have a more quality product.

Is this retarded or is 3d printing finally a somewhat feasible production method?

>>2690814
Its a pest control device. Im running tests on it now and trying to source components to figure out the final price. I wish I could say more but I will be trying to patent it if it works like I think it will.

>>2690817
bug call/whistle on a string spun around by a motor really fast?

>>2690817
Don't bother with a patent. They're worthless, chinks will flood amazon with knockoffs of your products, patent trolls will try and claim your idea was theirs and screw you through court for a bribe to fuck off. Meanwhile the patent lawyers will happily help you through the whole process as they wrack up millions in charges.

To have any competitive outlook in this shit hole economy you will have to flood the market with your product with such low returns to the point chinks won't bother trying to undercut you. But you do you.

What's the current budget SLA printer of choice?
Photon Mono?

>>2690274
It's my go-to for dimensional stability

>>2690538
Already exists as WAAM/WAM - Wire Arc Additive Manufacturing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbdzTwMhGg8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugMEgfIqc7c

Having an issue with this model. The mid section of the screw part is really weak, feels like it has no layer adhesion.

Any suggestions? Using titanx.

Solid works is freezing up on me whenever I try to open the options menu. Any ideas why?

>>2690841
reduce fan speed, maybe increase line width while keeping the layer thickness medium/low

>>2690817
>Its a pest control device. Im running tests on it now and trying to source components to figure out the final price. I wish I could say more but I will be trying to patent it if it works like I think it will.
Don't bother patenting, the Germans beat you to it and came up with gas chambers decades ago

>>2690627
>I wouldn't dare to do really big prints on them though
why wouldn't you use it gor big prints? I also have one on the way, but didn't read about any long term issues with them. did I miss something?

>>2690553
What's a good printer in your opinion, then?

>>2690871
It builds up gunk like other nozzles don't. So I fear it will interfere with the laid down layers causing failure or eventually building up and clogging the nozzle

>>2690747
This actually fixed the issue. No idea why it was lowered

>calibrate esteps
>was outputting 97mm of plastic rather than 100
>now its sorted
>still slight bulge in top, bottom and the solid middle layer on cube
Is this just normal?

>>2690897
Check the OP for printer recommendations.

>>2689825
There are grease spots on your bed there. The extruded filament didnt stick and was pulled along by the nozzle, thats why it seems thinner there.

>>2690040
>Travel speed: 175
Try half that, 175mm/s must be rocking your whole printer and foundation. No wonder you have layer shifts.

>>2690845
Thanks, this is working. Had the fan at 40 and just tested 30, much stronger. Testing another print at 20 now.

>>2690871
>>2690901
Currently using a fake cht nozzle on the clone bambu hotend on a p1p and it is working really, really well.

>>2690983
You calibrate the e-steps, THEN you still need to calibrate the flow rate. Print an open top cube in spiral mode, measure the walls with a caliper and if the thickness of the single wall is like 0,44mm out of a 0.4mm nozzle you need to reduce the flow rate by a little over 10%. FRom 100% to 90% or 89%.

>>2691059
I see, thank you

do I mess up my hotend or extruder when I exceed my max flow rate while printing? or can I just decide that my infill will probably be slightly underextruded and I'm fine with that?

>>2691106
Feel like it would jam with the extruder trying to push more filament in than is coming out. Why the need for speed? Quality is king.

I'm getting weird pillowing/warping, and divots by the supports on my resin prints. I checked the specs of the resin and they match what I specified in my slicer. Any thoughts as to why? This doesn't happen when I print something flat that doesn't use supports directly on the build plate.

>>2691054
Ty
Probably why I get ghosting too. Also my printer is on a tool chest with wheels and likes to wobble

>>2690040
I only consider myself a novice, owning an ender for about 6ish months now but I'm using an almost identical setup to yours (ender 3 with direct drive and CR touch, printing on glass) so I thought Id toss my hat in the ring too.

I'd definitely make sure everything is clean like you suggested and make sure the tracks dont have anything sticking to them or have buildup. I got my printer secondhand and the guy had the rollers on so tight it was digging into the rubber. Just make sure everything moves freely and there are no tight spots or bumps in consistent places though your print does not show that really.

Also what the other anon said that a more stable surface for the printer would definitely help. Newer printers dont seem to mind as much but enders can use all the help they can get. The less chances for a misalignment the better.

I've also been using the gluestick method instead of just glass as its much easier to reset than tape. Make sure the surface is clean of plastic, then give a small clean with IPA and a microfiber, then just a clean single pass over the area with a basic gluestick to help with adhesion. Its usually not necessary, but since doing that I have not had a print fail due to bed adhesion. To clean once I'm done I just use a bit of dish soap and a sponge and its ready to go again. Sidenote too, white filament usually shows flaws the easiest so trying a different color may help a bit if you dont get everything perfect.

Sorry for the spiel but thought id throw what I know.

>>2690654
Very cool. Looks like a fun project.

>>2691341
>I have not had a print fail due to bed adhesion
Neither have I, but I do get corners lifting on all of my prints. Glue stick maybe helped a little, though the only time I tried it I also jammed my bed up so the nozzle was lightly scraping, so it's hard to say what helped adhesion better. Still lifted a tiny bit.

>>2691341
Jesus that's a nice looking print
Thanks for tips mate

I only swap out the tape every 10 prints or so because bottom finish doesn't matter much to me and the bed adhesion from it is spectacular. Likewise I don't have issues with prints lifting or coming unstuck

>>2691381
>>2691401
The main problem I see with people using glue is far, far too much or they make the mistake of using IPA to melt the glue which makes it an absolute mess. You just want a clean surface with IPA to remove fingerprint oils or any residue from the last print. You then let it dry (like 5 seconds max) after that you add just a single layer from the gluestick. It should just be enough to change the surface from glossy to matte. Any big chunks or a detectable height is too much.

With your larger scans I definitely see how bottom layer finish is not as important, but in the future the bottom surface of a print may be visible. I like printing geometric solids as fun decoration for the lab I work in, so having every face of the print look nice is good since it may be placed any direction up or down. This is the bottom surface of a tetrahedron I printed in silk PLA. Except for a small dribble from the nozzle it's pretty good.

I’ve happily used tinkercad for all my design work- mostly tchotchkes but also some simple mechanical parts. Some of the projects I want to do next are too complicated for tinkercad- I need to do parametric design, intermeshing gears, and it would be nice to have generative design. I see a lot of creators use fusion360 or onshape, but I’m not sure which to invest my time in learning (or a different option altogether).

>>2691508
It's not bad, as in terrible, but definitely under extruded, anon.

>>2691552
Hmm, taking a better look and you're definitely right. I'll need to start making sure I keep my eye on the first level the entire time.looking at the base of my other prints and I don't see that happening as much but maybe because I did this as a second print with the same calibration for the first I got a bit punished.

I want to build or assemble my first 3d printer, I've only ever assembled an old XZ core printer and have little to no experience with engineering or electronics, I also don't have much space and was eyeing the voron v0 because of that, are vorons too difficult for a beginner? I also know someone who bought an ender 3 and never managed to print with it, maybe I could buy it from him and try to get it to work, the bottom line is that I want to get a deeper understanding of a 3d printer not something that just works, but I reckon that it can be easy to get lost and bite more than I can chew

>>2691674
I would try to cop the ender or maybe offer to fix it (with him buying parts) first then do the voron after you understand all the parts of a printer and how they connect. Feel like you’ll get lost in the weeds trying to do a whole voron first.

>>2691508
That isn't a tetrahedron, looks like some sort of hexagonal prism or hex-base-pyramid.

>>2691674
this is like every idiot who wants a project motorcycle or a project car to "fix up" and "learn". buy a low-mid printer and learn by printing shit. you can start by printing your own voron instead of wasting money on what have become bloated overpriced kits for "diy".

>>2691548
Fusion 360. Editable timeline is something I couldn't live without.

new to 3d printing (or at least, i want to)
bros i dont think i can rent my schools printer for this long... this is my first print

>>2691750
Thats not even a long print, if they have a 6 hour print limit I dont know why they have a printer at all

>>2691750
show us what you're trying to print and the settings, you're probably printing way more than you need to

>>2691733
Print file was a truncated tetrahedron but I didn't want to sound like an asshole

>>2691548
Onshape is actual parametric cad that makes sense. F360 is retarded timeline bullshit with a history of fucking over their users

>>2691757
>show us what you're trying to print
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5822435
>and the settings
i dont know im new

>>2691758
yeah well who's the asshole now, eh?

>>2691754
i just checked the website and it only let me book up to 4 hours. i hope it’s just a weird thing with their site and the staff or whatever actually understand that prints might take a little longer.

>>2691766
You could change the print settings to one of the faster/coarser options. I don't see why a functional print like the one you selected needs to be printed so slowly.

>>2691766
>>2691781
sorry anon, 5 hours is just how long it will take to print something that size on that printer.
you could try and split it and print it in 2 halves, then glue it together.
or set the layer height to something like 0.3m.
you're kind of stuck otherwise anon.

>>2691766
do they have a laser cutter? it would be ezpz to do that with finger joints

I want to use a camera and interface for my MK3S. What would be better to use, Octoprint or flash Klipper? I mainly want something to help me troubleshoot printing issues. Everything else is a bonus.

From what I am reading people don't think its worth it to switch to Klipper on a Prusa machine.

>>2691766
I don't own a Prusa but they released new firmware like last week that's supposed to be faster.
Also props to your school for getting prusas instead of makerbot whatever weird shit

what the fuck. ok bros help me out. I used this acetone in this pp(5) bucket suspended by magnets over this metal tray bottom coated with acetone to between 1 and 8mm. the print is in ABS and and the original test fit vs. after FOUR COMBINED HOURS of being in the vapor bath where nothing happened.

Specifically I left it for 40 minutes and dried* it for 10 hours the re bathed it for 2.5 hours and dried* it again. In both cases there was acetone still covering the metal pan bottom and clearly the tub was full of vapor (got a load in the face every time I lifted it above my head to inspect) but clear vapor, not cloudy. the pan is steel.

*there was never any visible indication of stickiness or melting or any effect whatsoever.

SO literally what the fuck bros? What the hell did I do wrong? I intentionally didn't sand because I wanted to test the really rough parts. someone please explain why this did fucking nothing.

>Tell superslicer I want the walls to be 5mm thick
>It doesn't change a fucking thing
What is with this stupid software?

>>2692069
Chop up the filament and add acetone and see if you are able to make a slurry? If not then it's not pure abs.

>>2692069
What was the temperature in the room? Lower temps fuck with this process, ambient temperatures are typically sitting near the bottom of the curve for acetone vapor production, it only takes a little more heat to make a huge difference in the concentration of vapor. The difference between a 65F room and an 80F room will be massive.. That box looks relatively big, it'd take a lot of vapor production to saturate it. More so, that's some Hatchbox ABS, and if you check the reviews on Amazon or just google "Hatchbox ABS Vapor Smoothing" you'll find that it's a brand many people struggle with. There are plenty of additives used when producing ABS for 3D printing, and some additives may diminish or completely eliminate the effect of vapor smoothing.
>>2692101
This fella is exactly right, see if you can dissolve a small piece of filament completely. Not softened or mostly gone, totally dissolved into the goo.

>>2692095
>What is it with this stupid user?
Did you read the tooltip for Wall Thickness? You didn't read the tooltip for wall thickness.
Wall Thickness is for fine tuning the overall thickness of the walls produced. It slightly increases extrusion width (it cannot decrease) to make the walls produced match the target wall thickness. It cannot do this outside of the range achievable for your given extrusion width. Let's say I run 0.4mm external perimeters, 0.44mm internal, 4 perimeters, that'd be around 1.72mm. I can then set Wall Thickness to 1.8mm, and it will slightly adjust to make sure those 4 perimeters make a 1.8mm thick wall.

>>2692103
yep basement so typically cool. I turned off the space heater for reasons, lol.

also thanks for the hatchbox tip. I really want to vapor smooth so that's good to know. Ideally I'll get to making bjd parts, this filament is a little too light for good doll anyway.

Has anyone ever used a vacuum former on printed pieces? Specifically miniatures. I'd like to skip silicone pouring to make moulds of miniature terrain and prints that take a long time but have no idea if it's worth it. Would also like to vacuum sprues from games workshop and make copies for my projects. Does anyone know if this is gonna be a waste of time?

>>2692111
I think you want /wip/ because none of that is about printing. Check the sticky.

>>2692111
although my understanding of vacu forming is they don't do detail well, nor can you do any raised areas: e.g. a sword or even the back of a leg. I doubt you could even do chess pieces at least I've never heard of two sided vacuum seal. It just seems like you're trying to use a railroad spike as a wrench because you don't want to bother.

>>2692111
If you can accept the loss of detail, hell yes you can do this. 3D printing is a great way to produce bucks for vac forming. It's not good for everything of course, it's a very "2.5D" medium, but still a great, inexpensive, and fun process, well worth trying out.
Also, ask these faggots, they're more likely to have experience with what you're talking about: >>>/tg/3dpg

>>2692115
Vac forming is extremely common for producing cheap terrain for miniatures/tabletop gaming. If you go googling to try to find out how to do it yourself, you're more likely to come across tutorials for cleaning/staging/painting vac formed pieces rather than the process of vac forming itself.

>>2692111
Highly recommended, great information: https://www.vaquform.com/blogs/news/how-to-3d-print-molds-for-vacuum-forming

>>2692103
>It cannot do this outside of the range achievable for your given extrusion width. Let's say I run 0.4mm external perimeters, 0.44mm internal, 4 perimeters, that'd be around 1.72mm. I can then set Wall Thickness to 1.8mm, and it will slightly adjust to make sure those 4 perimeters make a 1.8mm thick wall

I want 2 walls of 0.6mm. So I first set it to 1.2. Nothing changed. So I set it to a stupidly large number of 5mm. Nothing change. Extrusion width is always 0.44 for walls

>>2692156
If you want 2 walls of 0.6mm, set your extrusion width for perimeters to be 0.6mm anon.
The Wall Thickness option is for smaller fine-tuning. Read the tooltip.

>>2692168
This is so fucking confusing
So I should set it to 1.2 wall thickness then change the extrusion width in the other setting page to 0.6?

>>2692170
Pretty much, yes. The "Wall Thickness" setting is just for fine tuning extrusion width so walls end up at a precise number, but it's only able to make walls thicker, not thinner, and only by a small margin. As you adjust it the "Wall Thickness" setting, you can actually see exactly what it's doing by seeing how it changes your Extrusion Width and Spacing settings.

Try setting Wall Thickness to 0, then set extrusion width for Perimeters and External Perimeters to 0.4mm. Now go back and change your Wall Thickness from 0 to 1.4mm, then check your Extrusion Width settings again. You'll see that the width and spacing have both increased such that, when taking spacing into account, it'll now give a 1.4mm total Wall Thickness.

post practical/useful prints

>>2691009
>All controversial printers and brands have been removed from the list for your safety.

>>2691106
Depends on the specifics of the situation. With a stiff filament, it will cause the extruder motor to skip steps and possibly cause the drive gear(s) to grind into the filament. Skipping is OK (if occasional gaps in extrusion are OK), grinding might cause a gunk buildup of filament shavings that could potentially cause trouble. Flexible filament may buckle and jam up the extruder works in a way that's potentially difficult to clear.

>>2689596
Anybody have any experience printing flexible filaments? I wanna try printing very soft prints.

>>2689650
I'd widen the base and remove the bottom, then align the cup bottoms with the bottom edge of the print s.t. it all sits flat on whatever surface you place it on. that combined with the interference fit should be good for using and transporting.

>>2690033
might be a case for ABS smoothing. you loose some detail but it might be acceptable in these cases.

>>2690267
>Every youtuber is a Bambu shill.
no, every bambu owner is a bambu shill. there is still nothing close on the market and those that are are directly derivative. Bambu just did shit right, far beyond the obvious. Using another printer would be like returning to the stone age at this point.

>>2690332
that shit is so fucking revolting

>>2692535
Then try it. It's fun.

>>2692576
I can't understand why Bambu is so shilled. Can't they see the proprietariness is going to backlash on them? They even use a fucking fragile micro FPC smartphone connector inside extruder.

>>2690810
>>2690817
you could start with one or five just as easily and scale without too much difficulty. bambu are fast and depending on the size you're going to get multiple on a plate. I'd lay it out and slice and try to find a sort of least common denominator so your print time matches your complete units closely. In simple terms if part A takes 1 hour to print 10, and part B takes 30 minutes to print 20 you would want 5 printers, four running A for 40/hr and one running B for 40/hr. This is grossly simplified but you might as well make it simple and plan to just run the same tray on each printer.

>>2692587
name a better printer at the same price point.

>>2692592
I can't, because I don't know enough about their printers. I'm the one asking the question, how can I know the answer?

>>2692595
At the price point of the P1S, you won't find a better made, quieter, more reliable, more capable, or faster printer. It's the best printer for that price on the market currently, and it's for that reason that people shill hard. Prior to Bambu stepping in, the most frequently recommended printers were Prusa, and their biggest drawback was the high price tag. Now Bambu steps in with arguably better printers with more modern features at a lower price than Prusa, it's easy to see why they're so well liked and shilled so hard.

how do I get my CR10 to heat to 300? Got the special nozzle but the software only allows up to 270-280. Is there a change I can make or am I stuck with this new nozzle and filament? Wanted to try a new carbon fiber PA6 filament, Ive been using PLA this whole time.

>>2692602
I got it now, thanks.
So I guess Prusa can't even compete with them until they lower their prices like 2-3x (and add more hardware).

>Have X1-Carbon behind a CyberPower Uninterrupted Power Supply / Surge Protector
>Power goes out since I live in Florida
>AMS Flashing red lights for all roll slots
>Unplug whole printer for a few weeks while I do some remodeling
>Get design inspiration for the first time in months and fire up my printer
>AMS still blinking red

Fuck.

>>2692667
You try this?
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/AMS_is_not_detected_by_the_printer

>Do flow rate calibration
>-10 was the best result. Looked perfect
>Print cube
>Underextrusion
This is harder than trying to work out what women want

>>2692679
Use this link >>2689887 for calibration. I had the same issue, flow calibration looked perfect but actual prints gave me overextrusion.

>>2692681
I'm honestly tempted to just mess with the value until it looks acceptable

>>2692656
>compete with them
They're targeting somewhat different niches. Prusa printer orders are still backlogged, so it's not like Prusa is hurting. It's just that Bambu is doing really well, and has more or less reset the benchmark for what a good-quality FDM printer should be capable of.

>>2692736
>it's not like Prusa is hurting. It's just that Bambu is doing really well, and has more or less reset the benchmark for what a good-quality FDM printer should be capable of.
May as well add this to the OP.

>>2690739
>a crutch
No it isn't, you fucking monkey
If I want to send 10mm of filament down the pipe, it better fucking send 10mm

Does anyone know when new Bozzle nozzles will be available, or of any other solid carbide high flow nozzles?

wtf have you guys seen this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek_7tBOCcAI
it prints its own z axis

>>2692535
tried once, got spaghetti out my extruder
if you do this, either go real slow with a bowden or go for direct drive. with direct drive you want to ensure there's minimal gap for the filament to squirt out sideways, but also you want to avoid heat creep. having a high-flow nozzle may help reduce extruder spaghetti.

>>2692847
yeah but i think he's saying you should tune your extruder and hot end so it isn't skipping steps or grinding filament before doing so.
then e-steps.
then calibrate filament width if needed.
then give up and upgrade your extruder and hot end.
you shouldn't have to calibrate e-steps unless your printer's stock ratio is wrong or if you swapped to a different extruder

t. anon he was responding to

>>2692894
Yes, it's cute, and there are supposedly some very capable people working to improve it. I love novel shit like this.

>Printer has thermistor plastered into hot end
>Spend a half hour delicately trying to remove it
>Lead snaps off right before coming loose
Fuck preassembled 3d printers.

>>2693003
Even my cheap KP3S comes with free replacement thermistor.

>>2693004
Well it's too much for Creality.

>>2692587
>They even use a fucking fragile micro FPC smartphone connector inside extruder.
Sounds like extra sales to me.

>>2692535
Softest i tried was 85a ninjatek cheetah, it wasn’t that difficult. Just go slow, turn off/reduce retraction, and expect strings.

>Try out precise outer wall feature in OrcaSlicer
>it's just extra shit
I guess it's not an experimental feature for nothing huh

The nozzle on my ender 3 keeps clogging ever since I switched to a bi-metal heat break. I think it has something to do with the filament melting and then cooling down in the upper section after retractions. Turning down retraction distance helps, but it still happens quite often.

What heatbreak and heatsink combo do you recommend?

>>2693137
>What heatbreak and heatsink combo do you recommend?
PTFE-tube one?

>>2693136
But you do have outer wall first enabled, right?

>>2690512
Could be as stupid as a draft in your room, happened to me too many times. Consider adding a wider brim on the corners - just add a 0.2 mm circle on the corner of the model in CAD/Blender/whatever.

>>2690815
It's been feasible for a while, just for some reason people don't see 3DP further than the little cheap tabletop toy going brr.

t. job is industrial printing

>>2693136
works on my machine

Just finished setting up my first printer, an SV06. The extruder block kind of "catches" a little bit in the middle when I slide it back and forth, even after using quite a bit of PTFE oil. It was a lot worse before I lubed it, but there's still a noticeable difference in friction at the center. Is this normal (considering these supposedly come without lube)?

>>2693137
Was that a good heatbreak?
Cheap heatbreaks can do that too if they're machined badly.
You could also try to print one of those filament dust trap clips and add just a tiny drop of olive oil to the sponge to lubricate it. Solved constant clogs on my machine when i changed the break on it.

>>2691762
Onshape will fuck you too, give some time, they will do exactly what fusion 360 did

>>2691762
>>2693471
Every commercial software vendor will fuck us in the long run. Autodesk moved to subscription-only, Adobe too. There are rumors Windows 12 will be subscription-only too.
We need to believe in open source. I know FreeCAD is cumbersome, but they've got a grant, so it's going to improve.

>>2690525
Could be any number of reasons, but that is a babby tier model though so for it to be lifting I'm going to say your bed adhesion method is too weak.

Main cause of lifting corners is long uninterrupted edges. As the filament cools it shrinks and pulls inwards, the more layers you have the stronger the pull gets until it rips the corner off the bed. Heated bed can help but it weakens the overall adhesion which can make things worse. I think the best method is to enclose the printer in a box to have the temperature be even inside, but I haven't tried it.

Following good design practices can help you avoid it entirely, break up long edges, use large radiused corners, make the edges not straight. Although you can't do stuff like that on most designs so you might try a different material that shrinks less, PLA isn't as bad as PETG for shrinkage.

>>2693489
I have a better way.

>Go on thingiverse to find some halloween and skeleton stuff
>They changed the UI
Fuck me it looks like its designed for mobile now, who the fuck is using a mobile phone to slice shit for a 3D printer?

>>2693520
Tons of websites do this now because more than half of people on the internet exclusively use a phone or tablet. I absolutely fucking hate it, and I hate websites that don't make a distinction. Only being able to fit 4 fuck-huge buttons and one sentence of text on screen at a time on my 40" 4K. One of the streaming services did this recently, I think it was Hulu? Went from being able to see an entire season of a show in a list with episode names and titles, and now only one or two fit on screen at a time while you slowly scroll through, it's horrendous.

>>2693522
Amazon, it was Amazon. It's like being stuck at 200% zoom, it's fucked.

when are we getting commercial actual 3d (not 2.5D) printers?

>>2693163
Back to stock? That also did cause a fair bit of problems.
>>2693445
I've ordered a couple more heat breaks and a new heatsink, maybe I'll drill a couple holes in the plate to improve airflow.
>olive oil
doesn't seem good for layer adhesion

>>2693541
Is that a resin printer with a light?

>>2691548
Onshape is the way to go. If your models are worth searching and stealing, you can afford a $1500/yr subscription.

>>2693555
https://twitter.com/Rainmaker1973/status/1711021706007990697

>3D printing technique combining direct ink writing with up-conversion particles-assisted photopolymerization. The need for support structures is eliminated

what intereste me is the lack of a nozzle,this means a very thin long printing tube is possible, maybe multi-printhead prints

I got me a 0.6mm nozzle, do I need to re-calibrate things like e-steps and other stuff or is it simply changing settings in the slicer?

>>2693566
E steps no, normally you should be good just changing it in your slicer but maybe you’ll have to recalibrate flow rate or something if the prints dont come out good.

i printed with a bunch of pla colors and never had any issue, when i unseal a new roll of fillament it always feels nice soft, slick
but today i tried a new roll of transparent pla and it felt very brittle and dry, is that normal?
normally color pla sliders smoothly through the bowden tube but when i was putting the transprent pla in it had clear friction against the tube, what is this shit?

>>2693610
What's with the expiration date and packaging?
Sounds like you just got a bad batch if it's alright.

>>2693541
When someone decides to make an FDM machine with a tiltable bed and steep angles surrounding its nozzle. High-end auto-levelling already tilts the bed somewhat, and long hot ends like the super volcano wouldn’t need very much modification.

Just opened a spool of PETG and this is my first print with it. Is it wet?

I want to step up from PLA as my main filament. What's the next step up without doubling the price? I have an X1-Carbon so I don't want to do ABS/ASA for the extra cleaning of the carbon rods. Would PETG be the next step up?

>>2693789
Different materials are DIFFERENT, and whether their differences make them better depends on the purpose you have in mind. PLA is easy to print and very strong/stiff but brittle, prone to creep under sustained loads, and has poor heat resistance unless annealed. It's good for display/aesthetic prints and functional parts that are kept inside and are subject to non-sustained but possibly-high loads. Like press dies, for one example, and HTPLA made for minimal-distortion annealing is the most heat-resistant FDM material most printers can handle.

PETG is weaker than PLA, more prone to distortion, and less stiff, but it's tougher and is more resistant to heat. It's also UV resistant, so it can be used outside for extended periods. It can be highly transparent depending on pigmentation. It's useful as a general utilitarian material where the properties of more expensive/difficult materials like polycarbonate or nylon aren't needed.

what do you boys think the odds are on bamboo having a sale for black friday or christmas?

>>2693814
wouldn't 11/11 be more likely?

>>2693816
that too

>Work at the airport, usually only need regular ear plugs, but like having the extra layer of over ear muffs when using the airstart (giant diesel powered compressor for suck starting jet engines)
>Ear muffs too cumbersome to carry when not needed
>Want a secure, but quick detach system
>Find Safari Land Quick Lock System, a little expensive and just a bit bulky
>Find Toughbuilt Cliptech system, very rapid but attaching anything that isn't theirs means buying a cheap pouch and cutting off the holder bit
>Hole pattern is a bit weird too
>Deal with Safari Land QLS screwed on to a Blade Tech belt clip for the longest time
>Suddenly get the spark to 3D print again
>Find someone made a Toughbuilt Cliptech receiver
>Relearn Fusion360, learn how to reverse engineer meshes, make some changes and new addons like a single strip of MOLLE for mounting other shit
>Convert everything on my belt to Cliptech
>Type all blog post out
>Google Blade Tech because I thought it was Blade Tek
>Find they have just released a new belt attachment system
>20 bucks for the base kit, 5 bucks for each extra attachment disc

Fug.

>>2693848
You did the right thing anon.

>>2693775
Did you accidentaly print with your pla settings? check your flowrate.
Try printing something with travel moves, stringing will show you wether it's wet

Is Alieexpress the true white mans choice to source parts since it requires low time preference and is the best option economically?

>>2693926
For this hobby, yeah. At least until someone like LCSC starts sourcing 3D printer parts from a variety of 1st party producers.

how do I get the negative shape of the pic related's beavertail

>>2693937
3D scan and plenty of cleanup, careful modeling with reference photos and measurements, or a combination of the two. Or, best option, find someone who's already done the job and steal their work.
https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/pistol-cz-p-07-90f88de7f5444e59933453a0853b9756
Photogrammetry is deceiving, that model make look gorgeous but there's a good chance when you get into it you'll find it's a dirty mess, and there's no telling if it'll be scaled correctly, but still a great starting point.
Enjoy the ban <3

>>2693941
thank you
Folded Hands Emoji

>>2693937
>>2693941
Wait do mods actually remove 3dpew stuff?
Bro just wanted a negative, so a mockup basically (you put cube on top of it in blender then make it intersect btw ez pz)

>>2693962
I’m looking to print parts with very high impact resistance- do I want PA6 or PA6-CF? Do the CFs make the part stronger or just harder?

>>2693983
Carbon fiber usually makes parts stronger and stiffer but lowers the impact toughness. Specifics depend on the specific material.

Today on how fucked up is fucked up...
well that's a new way to fuck up

>>2693962
jannies, what did you expect

>>2693983
depends on your definition of very high, as well as the actual features and weight of the model. obviously thin tall stick won't fare as well as a cube, so if you try to print a hammer the head will probably be fine but you'll be breaking handles left and right. as >>2693984 said toughness goes down as stiffness goes up since toughness is really just how much it can deform without breaking which obviously becomes harder the stiffer less deformable it gets. for an extreme example imagine a cinder block vs playdoh and which one would survive a 5-ft drop to the sidewalk while losing the least amount of chunks.

>>2693990
orientation matters a lot with FDM, so the hammer example if you print the head and handle separately you can have a lot more durable hammer.

>>2693983
I would go CF until or unless you're having shattering failure.

>>2694001
So the use case is actually for the F1 car I posted last week, like any RC things break while driving but the axle seems like a particular weak point and I’ve just broken my 3rd- skidding sideways over an uneven joint in the sidewalk snapped it between the wheel and body. Last time it hit a curb sideways. This 3rd iteration was printed basically solid (10 walls, 50% inf) in PETG-CF and snapped in a solid section.

I either need some flex (which will make it drive oddly if the axle can torsion) or the toughness to stop/flip the car on that skid instead of the wheel snapping and body continuing on its vector.

Thoughts on a material? Would like to try 100% 3d printed more before I give up and embed a metal rod.

>>2694040
1. hollow tube is stronger than a solid bar. it's basic engineering but the fucking autists on here will REEE and screee about it.
2. pretty sure cylinder beats square stock in strength, it's been a long time since college but the stresses in the corners are probably subject to failure.
3. you better be printing that axle flat on the bed. it's impossible to see from the potato pic but the layers should be hub-to-hub with a key for that gear and wheels. square in those sections is probably sufficient for a key. despite #2 diamond shaped axle might be good, based on the layers.
4. axle within an axle might work, instead of a solid tube, doing sleeves might help eliminate weakness from the layers. you could sleeve PETG over PETG-CF but I'm playing guess with the materials engineering and what would be good.
5. annealing should help strengthen things, not sure how to anneal PETG-CF
6. go bigger you have plenty of room in those hubs, and meanwhile you're trying to reproduce what is likely a non-printed design speaking of
7. just get a goddammed aluminum square stock axle

so any or all of the above. usefulness might vary a lot. good luck.

>>2693962
Jannies do not allow pictures of guns or things that might be guns on /diy/. I have been banned several times for airshit (it was black, musta been too realistic), nerf (it was pink, musta been too realistic), and tools that are roughly the shape of a gun.

>Which is harder to bend? A 10 mm hollow tube or a 10 mm solid rod?
>Thats right a 10 mm hollow tube, because hollow tube is stronger than a solid bar.

>>2694051
>hollow tube is stronger than a solid bar
*of the same mass
That's not basic engineering, that's "I'm a retard who believes off-hand comments from Youtubers." Basic engineering is learning to actually calculate the characteristics you need to quantify. If the solid and hollow bars have the same diameter and are made of the same material, the solid one will be both more rigid and stronger in every way you can measure. This should be intuitive, if it's not for you then there may be something wrong with your brain. If you disagree, then you also don't believe 2+2=4 or that the sky is blue, because you'd have to be absolutely retarded to not trust the simple day-1 engineering math.

>>2694051
Thanks! I feel like I did a poor job explaining this posting from my phone at work earlier- see picture for what we are working with here.

I mean I can buy an axle, but I can also buy a traxxas. I already have a traxxas though. Anyway its not a scan of a professional RC, its a from scratch design by someone much smarter than me.

You make a really good point that the axle can just be bigger. I will rework the model and remove the part where the axle narrows to make the hub and axles both bigger.

>>2694051
>1. hollow tube is stronger than a solid bar. it's basic engineering but the fucking autists on here will REEE and screee about it.
As others have said, you are retarded
>2. pretty sure cylinder beats square stock in strength, it's been a long time since college but the stresses in the corners are probably subject to failure.
Not necessarily, that depends on the kind of load applied. Get Gere's Mechanics Of Materials and read up instead of believing shit on the internet.

>>2694169
I would maybe look into integrating steel rods, just like the cheap shit you can get on Amazon of 100 piece variety pack for 12 bucks. it's hard to tell the scale, but if you can hollow the axle and stuff in a 4 to 6mm rod that will up the strength immensely as you might expect, or you could even redesign it and take off the plastic spindles and just stick a bit of rod out on each side and use the steel itself as the spindle.

How do I convince my boss to buy a 3d printer so I can show off my 3d printing and cad skills
>work in a small job shop
>engineering technician
>most my work is cnc programming, cmm programming, QMS setup, and solving production issues
I was thinking I could say it would be a good way to organize a lot of the measurement equipment in the QC lab if we could print storage solutions then maybe come up with a way to suggest it could help in production or setup. It could also be used to print specialized shipping containers for parts
Need more ideas

>>2694253
Custom fixtures

>>2694254
3d printed plastic isn't going to hold anything in place to a reasonable tolerance. And fixtures honestly don't need to be anything custom, a vice or collet works for just about everything

>>2694258
"Reasonable tolerance" depends on what you're doing, and depending on what you're doing you may have some Boothroyd & Dewhursted abomination of a part that's really easy to assemble but hell to clamp for some secondary operation.

>>2693848
Speaking of modifying Safariland products with a 3D printer...

>>2694264
Hell I'll give it a try. I looked more into it and I guess some shops are making it work. I don't get too involved in the setups outside of telling machinists they need to redo it when they can't hold tolerance. But I'll look for more instances where custom fixtures could make it easier. I'm seeing that they use carbon fiber filament which needs an all metal hotend so I'll have to research that as well

>>2694075
kek

>>2694253
Prototypes/previews for customers that aren't sure of their ideas yet. Going with an industrial machine you could sell them accessories, which don't need to be full metal, directly, without them having to look elsewhere. Stuff like low pressure, custom formed claws, etc.. Service and money should be your arguments.

my brain isn't working so good today, if my probe tip is 2mm closer to the bed than the nozzle and the z probe offset in marlin is set to -2mm, if i want the nozzle to print 0.1mm higher above the bed (the base layer is getting too squished), do i set the offset to -1.9mm or -2.1mm?

>>2694392
Just try it out. -2.1 should move it farther from the bed though imo
>>2694274
Good point. Could even convince him to get a fancy machine you wouldn't get for yourself

>>2694395
I'd really like to try out a printer that's several thousand dollars just to see if it's actually better or easier than x1C.
I hear some companies (like Ford) have dedicated additive manufacturing "experts". That would be a fun position.

>>2694398
>additive manufacturing "experts".
>drag model into slicer
>press "Slice"
>Press "save gcode"
>250K annually
>self respect: none

>>2694392
It's definitely -1.9

>>2694415
You're taking some stuff for granted.
>Fix the printer when it breaks
>Select the appropriate part orientation depending on strength vs fidelity needs
>Explain to the designer that a 0.4mm nozzle cannot resolve 0.1mm details
>Explain to the designer that the part probably cannot be produced accurately in the orientation they want
>Explain to the designer that an ender 5 cannot print PEEK.

Anybody ever tried the Voron M4 extruder and got good results using it without massive stringing?

I switched my CR10 extruder for it and had non-stop stringing no matter the retraction/multiplier/pressure advance settings.

>>2694417
you are correct. that other anon is a liar, i set it to -3 as a test and it crashed straight into the bed

>>2694423
>Explain to the designer that an ender 5 cannot print PEEK.
But can it print POM?

>lathe style 3d printer
What would be the potential benefits of adding material to a spinning surface

>>2694449
None, unless you were doing entire sheets of material for round prints.

>>2694449
It's been done, they're cute and totally fucking useless. Go build one yourself and witness the pointlessness, it's cheap and easy. You'd need some very specific use-case to get anything out of one of these heaps of shit.

>>2694478
how does first layer happen?

>>2694454
I feel like it would absolutely result in better threaded parts

>>2694496
You print onto a cylindrical core, which is printed on a traditional 3D printer, or can be cut from a dowel or pipe. The core becomes integrated into the model, they are not reusable. With effort, you can create more complex cores that align with features of the rotary print, making it possible to have more complex internal geometry that the rotoprinter cannot do on its own. Rotoprinters are super fuckin' neato, and impractical as fuck.

>>2694498
>Threads held onto a surface purely by layer adhesion
Nope

>>2694423
You forgot about wanting to beat the shit out of the designer for not add some fucking 0.2mm tolerances on fitting parts and having to model parts yourself better than the people who are fucking paid to do that
>>2694415
You'd be surprised how much in demand are people who can at least do that, yet alone the actual job of additive technician.

K1 Max profile for Cura when?

>>2694398
>I'd really like to try out a printer that's several thousand dollars just to see if it's actually better or easier than x1C
I'm curious too
You have shit like makerbots and luzbots are that are several thousand.

I'd expect them to work but not many people who are really enthusiastic about printers have them. If you're just a worker trained to use them, you're not going to have a frame of reference for fuck ups or even care what it does.

>>2694478
Everytime i see these, i think why not put a drill up there and make it a pom gear cutter? Custom gears are pretty much always overpriced industry bullshit so it would even make some sense to build.

>>2694499
>that bend
Fuck me.

>>2694567
Can't really show it off, but we got a Raise3D Pro2 and Pro3 at my institute and they're basically the plug and experience everyone wishes for, basically runs 24/7 as well. I guess from there on up it's only more streamline for workers to use or being named LulzBot.

>>2694581
>they're basically the plug and play experience everyone wishes for, run 24/7 as well.
Sorry, it's getting late here.

>>2694169
why are you 3d printing tires? tires aren't supposed to be made of hard plastic you fool

Is this thing worth it? Would be using it to print minis and to prototype boardgames

>>2694173
Yeah i will likely do this when the next one breaks. Tried it in regular TPU with less layers for more flex this time.

>>2694583
Well its TPU, but it really doesn’t grip even with the ridges.

>>2694605
Get the 4k for $180 instead but yeah it’s perfect for your use case. Resin smells like shit, i recommend the water washable one.

>>2694606
Thanks for the recommendation but isn't what I posted the 4k?

>>2694608
Sorry I meant the Photon Mono. Same brand, dont know the differences but its newer. i have one and it works great.

>>2694610
There are several Photon Monos - he posted one of them.

>>2694608
>>2694610
>>2694612
Here is a link to the printer I have that I am recommending:
https://a.co/d/7tKEaxi

I believe that blue one is the older version. Currently the yellow one is not on sale except for what I posted, but it regularly goes down to $180.

>>2694615
Looking into it I think the Mono 2 is the newer model
https://www.anycubic.com/blogs/3d-printing-guides/anycubic-photon-mono-2-vs-mono-4k

>>2694617
Looks like thats the one to buy then, go for it. You can make models with crazy details, and the layers are so small that nobody would guess they are 3d printed.

>>2694619
I pulled the trigger, should hopefully be able to share some stuff here soon!

>>2694606
TPU printed fleshlights don't work bro, the shore hardness is too high. You could add a very soft internal layer, but you'd also need complicated internal geometry to allow for more stretching. :^)

>>2694629
On the off chance you haven't seen it, you might be interested in >>>/tg/3dpg

Out of all things, why does it have to warp PLA? catches me off guard almost every time
I know the fix, I'm just too lazy to fix profiles

>>2694632
Could make a mold for a silicone casting. Then again normal pla might be better based on print quality

>>2694632
thats why you use an internal heating coil to make it sufficiently soft

Ended up dropping cash on one of these kits. Should be the last 3d printer added to my collection for a while. Only things I need now are a large format printer, and a resin printer. One can also dream of affordable metal 3d printers popping up at some point....

>>2694761
>metal
mod a printer into an EDM machine

What are filament spools made of? Do they have a particular material tolerance they need to meet? Can you 3D print them?

>>2694821
>What are filament spools made of?
Varies by manufacturer. It often says on the spool, though you may have to look up the recycling code.

>Do they have a particular material tolerance they need to meet?
No but the standard size is 200mm outside diameter, but beyond that everything varies considerably.

>Can you 3D print them?
Yes, if you have a printer that can fit a 200mm round object.

>>2694821
>>2694824
some are cardboard. there are 4 standard "hole" sizes or near enough you need 4 adapters for something like a filament respooler. the really shitty spools are held up by the filament and will literally warp as it comes out. the toughest are probably bambu which every spool is clear hard plastic and reusable.

>>2694824
also there are mini spools and skinny spools.

>>2694824
you could print a mini spool but you don't actually need a spool outside of a bambu, I have those color packs from a 3d pen and have easily printed them by just hanging the raw filament coil on the printer.

>>2694761
why did you get this instead of a large format kit?

I too one day want a resin printer in the stable but I need to 3d print a finished basement first.

Tips on a decent belt printer addon that i can hack under a core xy?

>>2694942
Wouldn't you have to raise the whole fucking belt up and down for that?
I think you're going to be stuck with a gantry system like a typical bedslinger.

>>2694976
>belt up and down
Yeah no worries. I trust the z axis more rather than the belt being the y axis.

>>2694982
I guess if you print, move the roller forward until the part falls off and then redo the bed leveling before doing the next print it might work.

How do I reduce these artifacts of lines meeting at a 90° angle from the opposite side? Do I just need to set up input shaping? (marlin2.0)
Or is it some wall overlap whatever slicer setting? (been happy with mostly standard Orcaslicer settings as of now)

>>2694606
Do the tires work for drifting? Some drift tires are really fucking hard.
Fuzzy Skin option for more grip?
Could a spring design like this maybe help?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WEqKYa6XRk

I bought a sovol sv06 as my first printer. I have packed each bearing with grease (the whole creampie and rod pushing routine) but many of them still feel crunchy, especially the ones on the z axis. My z motor brackets are also sagging by a few degrees, as is common on this printer apparently. I have also aligned the x gantry with calipers.
My first few test prints have this irregular z-wobble which I am attributing to the dogshit bearings. When I manually turn the lead screws I can feel occasional "bumps" in between the regular motor steps.
Will swapping all the bearings with new ones (I'm looking at drylins) and using soda can shim stock to true up the motor mounts get me the print quality all the YouTube shills are getting?

>>2695023
The tires are really good for drifting, but I was hoping to make this car fast and it isn’t with so little traction. I’ll give the video a watch!

>>2694861
Price point, and I regularly operate with in a limited amount of space. Many smaller printers within a given area = more parts produced at once.
I don't think I'd like a full blown 2.4, feels like a status kind of thing. Even a Doom-ed printer has some degree of additional functionality(high temp filament printing) If I end up making a large format 3D printer, I'd be going with a Trident or Ratrig. VzBot would be neet, but that kind of seems like a money pit.

>>2695041
Cool. I may be in for some new drift tires. Seems to be a cheaper alternative to paying 20 Bucks for 4 Tires for my MJX 14301.

Sorry but the video suggestion was probably just a regarded suggestion. Dunno. Just thought it's cool how you can print flexible parts that way.

>first paying customer for a design is a black fraternity
As long as their money is green.

>>2695060
Anon is right, I initially built a voron trident since I wanted to print faster, but this is after buying 3 printers at the time.

I realized more printers means more simultaneous prints.

>Ender 3
>Kingroon kp3s
>Kingroon kp3s pro
>Voron v0.1
>Voron Trident
Now I just tore down my cr-10s pro to keep as spare parts, I am looking to see if I should trying out creality k1, and kingroon klp1 cheap corexy, anyone have any experience with either one? I am hoping to reflash the controller board and pi clone to dechinkify it.

>>2695105
Dildo design?

>>2695112
Nope.
Just a tag with their greek letters on it, front and back.
Easy as pie with the bambu AMS.

>>2695117
A buck tag?

>>2695121
anon please go outside once in a while

>>2695060
While I'm at it, what hotend should I swap to in the future? I'm getting the chc v6 style one, but I swear everytime I'm in the market for a print 5 my hotends release.

Has anyone here ever tried taking 3d models from vidya games and printing them? Does it ever turn out well or do the characters come out looking really bad?

>>2695135
Almost universally bad. Games use a lot of tricks to make things look as good as they do, the models are rarely as nice as they appear. Newer games are better about this, the older you go the more sickening it gets. Not everything is useless, it's totally worth trying if you have something specific in mind.

>>2695136
That makes sense. I was thinking about downloading a ripped 3d model from action taimanin to try to print, but I didn't know how possible it was. I'll look into it, if it works out, I'll post it.

>>2695142
Good luck, anon! The other thing to consider is character models are usually in a default pose (like T-posing), and would need to be rigged/fucked with otherwise in order to pose them. They can also be missing clothing/armor. Again, never know, hell for some games with avid modding communities you can easily find tools specifically for dressing and posing character models.

>>2695135
I grabbed a few porn models off SFM Lab, opened them in Blender to do some morphs and posing, exported that as an STL, cut the model in Orca down to just the torso or bust, and printed some big ol' titties.

It can work, just takes a little bit of effort. creativity, and a lot of time to get it kind of right.

I also did some gun models but that's even trickier since there are smaller parts so you either need to edit them, scale them up, or up your resolution with a tight nozzle for FDM or just do it in SLA..

How could i automate printing 150pcs of filter boxes? ABS, 3h print, only one per bed.
I could print em reliably on a glass surface with special spray glue. After 30min of cooling finished part would break free and could be shoved off by a toolhead. But then i need to reapply the glue or next part would fuse itself with glass.
A have tried printing on FR4 sheet without any glue, but adhesion is not strong enough.

>>2695166
Belt printer and mount the spray can so you can bump the nozzle with the extruder head to reapply.

Finally got my Snapmaker mini 3-in-1. It's a refurbished unit my coworker managed to get a hold of, gave it to me for free.
Problems:
>didn't come with a PSU, correct specs are not written on control box or on box
>router head does not rotate smoothly
>laser is in the ~0.4W power range, not sure if that's enough for PCBs but I think it is
>there is no quick-change tool capability
>there's an apprentice mark or two on the hold-down clamps where someone drove an end-mill into them
>didn't see any end-mills but I'll need to look more thoroughly (will be using it as a drilling machine anyhow)
>lightburn is not listed as compatible laser software
Anyhow I'll definitely be taking the thing apart to see if I can modify it. It's nice and modular with all the stepper axes being identical and plugging in via 6P6C connectors, and the tool and screen plugging in via 8P8C connectors.

But the small (pictured) power supply and thin wires don't give me confidence as to the amount of power I can push into the steppers, or the heated bed. Probably won't use the heated bed. The thing feels a lot more rigid than my ender 3, so I'd really like to be able to push it faster.

>>2695167 I might try to use a 15$ battery powered garden spray gun.

>>2695179 Or get a car wiper pump, tiny hose and fix sprayer nozzle on a toolhead. Should be less messy.

>>2695040
I think I saw some print to fix the sagging motors on the sv06. If you feel bumping while turning the lead screws I guess it's either the bearings or perhaps some imperfection of the rod

>>2695166
Should have taken the garolite pill.

Man what the fuck went wrong

>>2695369
broke off the bed supports causing layer shift. looks like your support towers are skimpy and wobble, the crack at the fang failed before the whole thing. try either tree supports and increase the branch walls to 2 or increase the angle of support so more of the bottom and teeth get supported. you might also just flip upside down, see what the supports look like in that case (I'm assuming everything around the stem will be supported). you can also try setting your support z-top distance to 0.1mm instead of 0.2mm, but occasionally it welds the supports instead of just making things more snug. last try a better pumpkin:
mega.nz/file/bEtDVQxK#xWhppPKNBoHo0_Xz04e6RKcjrfNPQ8SS4vrfZ74-I_k

>>2695379
I have printed another in the past that didn't go to shit. But that was sliced with PrusaSlicer where as what I did that with was SuperSlicer as I dialled in all my settings using that

Do you think its likely I just got unlucky on this print? Is there a setting to just make the supports thiccer so they don't wobble maybe?

>>2695369
How stiff is the bed?
The tighter the springs underneath, the better. You don't want it to bend to one side or the other when changing direction or printed stuff (like your supports) can catch on the nozzle.

>>2695388
It's an Ender 3 Neo so it has the stiffer springs people usually buy for them. Maybe I should try getting those sillicone tubes sometime. Alongside a capricorn tube...

>>2695389
How fast are you printing?

>>2695424
This. I'm kinda sad I can't mix grid and organic supports. Organic adds a lot of print time but I only need organic for the teeth. Grid is fine for the top and quicker

>>2695428
>I'm kinda sad I can't mix grid and organic supports
Try Orca Slicer, it's called "Hybrid" supports.

>>2695464
Not gonna lie I hate orca slicers ui. And for some reason if I drag the program around my screen it moves really slowly. Not sure its my PC as I have a 5800X
I also don't seem to have hybrid supports as an option (I am on the latest version)

>>2695464
yes could you share with the class how THE FUCK to turn it on, because I'm using the 1.7.0 beta and the only options are support on/off and normal(auto), tree(auto), normal(manual), tree(manual)

>>2689596
>Free to anyone: Fusion360
Only pro trial or limited versions are free. Where can i get the pro for free?

>>2695500
what do you need that isn't in the free version?

>>2695504
ok i was gonna ask that, is the free version good enough for most things and for following online tutorials?

>>2695507
Yes.

>>2695486
Gotta at least try, anon.

>>2695509
>hybrid under manual
yeah that makes fucking sense in chinese maybe

>>2695509
So thats where its hiddden

>>2695512
It does kind of make sense

>>2695507
yes. the tutorials are not great and a lot of things are outdated, but once you get used to the way F360 does things it's very powerful. the 10 document limit is for editable documents but you can always add and remove from this list. so 10 active documents. annoying but it's there.

>>2695512
>>2695514
It's under the style category, manual or auto does not matter. God damn two blind faggots simultaneously, what are the odds?

>>2695509
>>2695515
ok cheers

>>2695518
Oh also the way it works is fucking retarded in my opinion, experiment with it and you'll see it do some weird shit in hybrid mode. Definitely works though, I use it plenty. glhf ily

>>2695367 Abs barely stick to it.

>>2695174
>also no part cooling fan
why do 3d printer manufacturers do this

Is there a good and reliable filament/tangle sensor?

>>2695624
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081W4KMHC
Generic optical encoders are the RepRap way to go, but there are off the shelf options like the Duet3D Filament Monitor, the Tunell, the Orthus, if you don't like to /diy/ (lol faggot). Can be used to detect runouts, skips, whatever, they're awesome. Shame they're not more common given they'd be so cheap for China to mass produce, but not as cheap as shitty microswitch runout sensors. I like the optical encoders for their simplicity, cheapness, and the diy-factor, but the fancy magnetic sensors like the Duet one "should" be able to detect smaller movements and be faster to respond.

Hi guys, my printer is leaving these lines on the top surface of my print. I print 1.75mm ABS at 240 deg C through a 0.4mm nozzle. Any ideas how to fix this and make it a little smoother?

>>2695634
Wonder if a sufficiently precise encoder (e.g. 0.3mm) could be used to better tune the printing of flexible filaments?

>>2695638
Looks like it might be a tad bit under-extruded, but if your e-steps and extrusion ratio calibrations are all correct I'd leave them as is. You could try to turn on ironing, or maybe make top layers print slower.

>>2695638
Try upping your temps or slowing your speed before doing any e-step or flow calibraitons.
Because upping temps and slowing speed are those calibraitons.
E-stepniggers are among the lowest IQ posters on this board.

>>2695638
Definitely looks extruder related.
Either it's not pushing the filament consistently (Check the teeth on the extruder gear) or maybe you're running it too cold for the speeds you're asking of it so it can't melt quite fast enough to keep up.

>>2695723
>E-stepniggers are among the lowest IQ posters on this board.
It's because so many printers used to ship with bad e-step settings, including plenty of Creality, Wanhao, Monoprice, ANET, chink printers in general. So plenty of people were fucking around trying to tune their prints with their e-steps 10-25% off, and it became part of the rhetoric. "Have you calibrated your e-steps?" It's just stuck as a thing people seem to expect, when nowadays you'll be lucky to find a printer that's not bang on the money right out of the box, even $150 shitbox printers usually don't fuck this up anymore. You only need to be within about 5%, hell you can easily vary your e-step calibration by as much as 5% just changing your extruder tension or switching to a different filament. Anymore it's something you maybe verify once, or calibrate once when you get a new extruder, but that's it, the rest of your tuning in that regard should be happening at the slicer.

Anyone use esun's cleaning filament before? Is it any different from picrel?

>>2695816
You shitters don't know what an e-step is so that's why it doesn't work past the 20mm test.
e-steps is literally only for the stepper motor. For the steps. Stepper motors e-steps are set correctly the vast, vast, vast majority of times.
There are a thousand other fucking things that can affect the amount of filament that comes out.
Thats' why you fuckers can dial in your 20mm of filament and then it looks like shit when you try to do an actual print.
Because there's so much more that goes into shitting out plastic than the goddamn extruder motors you IQ Black hole.
Measure how much the goddamn motor turns, not how much filament is used holy shit.
I fucking hate programmers, they never at any point in time thing about hardware and it's 95% something to do with hardware that fucking around with numbers won't fucking solve.
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

>>2695888
>e-steps is literally only for the stepper motor.
It's for the drivetrain that converts stepper movement to filament movement. It relates how much Extrusion per Step (e-step, you see) your printer has. For example, switching to a different-sized drive gear on the same stepper motor would change the required e-step calibration to produce the desired flow of plastic.

I am doing the slicer flow calibration from the link in the OP. Is this something I need to be worried about doing for each individual filament or can I follow the guide and be okay?

>>2695887
i bought some when i was getting a lot of blocked nozzles from cheap filament.
its doesn't help, its literally just to purge colours between changes, maybe you can use it for cold pulls too, but no better than any other filiment.

>>2695901
Most filaments are good to go with a single calibration of some normal-ish filament. You'd want to re-calibrate for something unusual, like a pulltruded hollow filament (where the volume of plastic per length of filament is different) or really flexible things (where the stretch/squish as the filament moves through the drive gears results in less than desired actual filament travel). Generally, re-do it if you notice something off and other things are set up properly.

>>2695555
?
Sticks to mine at 100c, too well. I need to let it cool just to take shit off.

>>2695918
I've had success with the purge filament before, it's just that 9 syrupbux for 3m of filament is kinda expensive when you can get 100g of the esun stuff for 20. So if it's the same shit I might as well get the cheaper one.

>>2689596
i just rooted my k1 max and I already have access to both fluidd and mainsail however I can't connect my printer to orcaslicer to send jobs directly from there. I did everything right and other people just get it working, instead this is what I get when I click test. Any ideas?

>>2695972
remove the port and try again. It could be automatically adding the port and treat the whole ip as an ip with no port.

Is there an easy way to remove screw holes from an .stl?

>>2696037
Depends on what modeling program you use and the specifics of the model. Removing holes in a flat surface takes a few clicks and a few seconds in FormZ, for example.

>>2690512
>>2690525
I had that same corner lifting on my ender 3. There's something janky about that top right corner of the bed and leveling it is weird. Anyway I solved it by increasing bed temp 10C and using a gluestick or masking tape on the tempered glass.

I've got like 1/3rd a mm of movement in my V0.2 gantry on the front left corner. Going through and re-squaring the entire frame, the best I can get it is the same amount of slop, but on the back left corner instead. Is that within an acceptable margin?

>>2689596
how much until commercial steel printers?

>>2696076
Commercial steel printers have been available for several years and are in widespread use within certain industries.

>>2696079
yeah but I mean printer that someone with a house can have and that don't require a whole room to be

>>2695996
it's not, I'm just retarded, I blocked orcaslicer from the firewall when I got my P1P because I didn't want the chinks getting my data and i forgot about it

Is the CR Touch the biggest piece of shit ever or did I just get the worst S1 Pro off the shelf? My Z-offset randomly switches between -1.0 and -1.65 but it measures consistently at one for awhile.

>>2696080
The kind that essentially welds a wire in place is pretty accessible, I think. A lot cost version of that is doable.

>>2696125
I don't have a probe for my Ender 3, but wouldn't that just mean that you have a 0.65mm deviation in the bed?
The whole point of using a probe is that you can have a variable Z0 to compensate for distortions in the bed.

>>2696145
No, Z-offset is to compensate for the difference between probe/switch zero and nozzle zero. Z-offset should not need adjusting unless you change an extruder part. Bed distortion compensation is different.

>calculate max flowrate at 16mm3/s
>switch nozzle to 0.8
>max flow test still looks great at 20mm3/s
isn't it supposed to stay consistent or slightly decrease because at 0.8 it can't heat it up as efficiently... I'm confused

>>2695887
>>2695963
most purge filament is just hdpe plastic
an entire spool of it should cost no more than a spool of something like ABS but gotta keep everyone ignorant to sell 1/10 of a spool for $13

I installed klipper/mainsail on a pi like and wanted to know if theres anything I should know before I flash my printers board. Like some kind of macro or something.

>>2696209
I've read that sometimes it's nylon, but the esun one specifically is HDPE. Well it's not like anyone is selling a whole roll of HDPE at a reasonable price so I might as well just get the one that's less expensive.

>>2696156
A larger nozzle orifice has lower back pressure for a given flow rate, meaning that it can handle higher flow than a smaller nozzle, all else equal. The difference is rather large at the outer envelope of performance, though it can eventually run into the melt capacity of the heater itself. Pic related is a comparison for some nozzles of a particular brand under particular test parameters. Nozzles from other brands would show a somewhat similar pattern though the specifics would be different.

>>2696284
I know that nylon is preferred for "cleaning" as in cold pulls to remove stubborn solid junk stuck in a nozzle, but I haven't heard about a preferred material for "purge" filament. IIRC HDPE has a rather high molten viscosity, so it could be good for that. That would make the HDPE itself more difficult for the next filament to purge out completely though. A possibility I've heard is that whatever it is is formulated for a high range of molten temperatures, so it works as a bridge between two filaments with very different melting points to avoid either solid plastic left in the nozzle or a risk of burning the lower-temp material. Though on that front I personally haven't had trouble from just using the higher temperature for the purge and moving directly to a print.

>>2696304
>A possibility I've heard is that whatever it is is formulated for a high range of molten temperatures
That's why HDPE is used, relatively low melting point but it doesn't burn at high temps.
>Though on that front I personally haven't had trouble from just using the higher temperature for the purge and moving directly to a print.
Same here, 400h+ on a singular nozzle, purging material before a print is good enough. PLA doesn't seem to fuck up even at 250C

>>2696298
Can’t wait for the extremely high-force extenders being used for speedboating to be used for moderate speed quality prints on tiny nozzles.

This is a two part post. Could use some help please. Working on this adapter for the quest 3 headset. In this picture the thing on the left is a tear away support I modeled for an overhang. That middle axle male end just inserts into the female end with a slight gap around it.

Im really having some trouble with this overhang and how to dial the settings in. Im using a bambu p1p and the only settings I have really changed are ironing and layer height. I have a piece printing right now where I adjusted the bridging speed down to 40% from 50%. I don't know if I just need to adjust the model or if I can get a really good piece by adjusting the sliced file. Everything else seems great so far, but I think bridging across the custom support is the issue. The automatic supports were even worse.

Heres the finished print. You can see the bridging is a little stringy

>>2696419
Why not use arc overhangs? I think a few slicers can have them via plugin, maybe one or two come with them already. I'd still add supports about the edges though.

>>2696431
I havent seen the arc overhangs settings in bambu slicer yet. There might be a way to do them, but I was thinking im maybe just handling overhangs poorly.

>>2689596
this guy made a printer that prints onto a spindle instead of a bed seems cool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58AD7zPnxcU

>>2696420
>You can see the bridging is a little stringy
I'm surprised that it doesn't look worse. Couldn't you have printed it in another orientation though? like sideways with minimal support

I get this huge z seam gap since using 0.8 nozzle.
I have seam gap setting in Orcaslicer on 0 and I can't find an extra length on restart setting. Does anyone have experience with this?

>>2696481
It's a rotary printer. We spent a portion of this thread talking about them. They're impractical garbage but vaguely "neat."

>>2696125
is the print head laterally moving too fast while probing the bed? vibrations cause false touches

>>2696502
Jesus that's awful, have you tuned for linear advance with this combo? Extra Length on Restart is comedy gold from 10 years ago, I can't recommend a setting I haven't used in a decade or more. Retraction length, retraction speed, deretraction speed, linear advance/pressure advance.