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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 104 KB, 700x480, Diagonal board sheathing - Lunenburg firehouse - cropped - lunenburgfirehouse dot blogspot dot com-main-700x480.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686101 No.2686101 [Reply] [Original]

Traditional houses used diagonal boards for sheathing walls, from my understanding it used to be 1x boards. I too want to sheath a small cabin in the same pattern - however it appears 1x boards are not a thing at most lumber stores (HD / Lowes) and most are softwood for appearance boards. 2x boards such as 2 x 8 are actually cheaper then 1x boards and plywood.

Any unforseen issues you may see if I sheathed a cabin with 2 x 8's? The wall studs will be 2 x 6 which I believe should be strong enough to hold the extra weight of 2 x 8 sheathing.

>> No.2686110

>>2686101
It would be very expensive

>> No.2686114

>>2686110
2 x 8 boards are actually cheaper then plywood and provide a wall that is almost 3 times as thick providing better strength, rot/mold resistance, sound absorption, longevity, breathability, etc.

This is a cabin build and I wont be using modern building techniques with vapor/moisture barriers and want the walls to be able to breathe.

Just trying to see what issues I may run in to with using 2 x 8's for wall sheathing as a lot of the literature I see mention old folks used 1x thick boards.

>> No.2686121

>>2686110
for you

>> No.2686129

>>2686101
warping might be an issue
plywood is fairly stable due to the layers being oriented in different directions
you might want to at least cut the bevels off of the 2x4's to get a tighter finish

>> No.2686130

>>2686129
bevels off of the 2x8's*

>> No.2686134

>>2686101
>however it appears 1x boards are not a thing at most lumber stores (HD / Lowes)
This is incorrect.

>> No.2686138

>>2686129
Warped boards could be an issue. I had planned to staple strips of wool between the boards to keep it airtight.

Additionally could put pine tar on exterior of this wood, and/or put tarpaper on top and/or also put an additional 1x sheathing boards on top of this for an even thicker / stronger wall.

Insulation type is still up for debate. I may go with sawdust and borax. I originally wanted to use slipstraw for insulation but that may not be feasible.

>> No.2686141

>>2686134
1x boards are all appearance softwood boards and more expensive then 2x sized boards.

>> No.2686145

>>2686101
Lmao what
Where are seven 2x8 cheaper than a sheet of half inch ply?

>> No.2686146

>>2686145
Home depot. I did the math on the sq ft, if buying bulk 2 x 8's the price is slightly cheaper then plywood.

And this is for 23/32 / 3/4 plywood. I like thick walls. 2 x 8's for walls is thick and strong.

>> No.2686148

>>2686114
>This is a cabin build and I wont be using modern building techniques with vapor/moisture barriers and want the walls to be able to breathe.
you got boomer bullshit stuck in your head.

>> No.2686150

>>2686146
What’s the price for ply and what’s the price per 2x8?

>> No.2686151

>>2686148
actually the submarine trap a fart tight vapor moisture barrier wrap is boomer bullshit. The techniques im talking about were from the 1850 - 1940's so this is great great grandfather thinking.

>> No.2686152

>>2686150
Roughly around ~14$ per 2 x 8 x 16 ( think its more closer to 13.60 or so with bulk which im doing), plywood 23/32 per sq ft is more expensive by like 5 - 10%. The price thing isnt a big deal, it would be cool to have super strong / thick 2 x 8 walls.

>> No.2686164

>>2686114
Just make sure you don't build it in the winter

>> No.2686166

>>2686152
You know you're gonna have to buy an extra 10% (at least) of 2x8s because of cutoffs right? You're just making it harder for yourself

>> No.2686169
File: 71 KB, 512x429, IMG_1421.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686169

>>2686101
>Traditional houses used diagonal boards for sheathing walls

Where?

>I too want to sheath a small cabin in the same pattern

Why?

>however it appears 1x boards are not a thing at most lumber stores (HD / Lowes)

neither of those is a "lumber store"

> 2x boards such as 2 x 8 are actually cheaper then 1x boards and plywood.

They're roughly the same where I'm at based on square footage, but that's not theventirety of what they cost to install and weatherproof, especially if you cut and lay them on a diagonal.

>Any unforseen issues you may see if I sheathed a cabin with 2 x 8's? The wall studs will be 2 x 6 which I believe should be strong enough to hold the extra weight of 2 x 8 sheathing.

Dimensional lumber was traditionally used to vertical build board and batten walls like picrel without any studs, just corner posts to connect adjacent walls and flat lumber to beef up door and window openings and to make a top plate.

If you don't want to do that and are set on 2X lumber, the smart way would be to cut a lap joint on each plank and do them horizontal like siding...if it's a small cabin you could avoid most vertical seams and minimize wall framing and would vastly improve resistance to water intrusion over diagonal planks, at least until the boards start to split.

>> No.2686175

>>2686169
All over the US between the 1850 - 1940's. Boards are placed diagonally, and not horizontally to strengthen shear resistance. If placed horizontally would be weak.

>> No.2686176
File: 393 KB, 400x533, bob-vail.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686176

>>2686169

Who knows what ill do yet ive been going back and fourth.

>> No.2686200

>>2686152
1/2” plywood is fine for sheathing, 3/4” is for subfloors. The 2x8 will cost about $55, 1/2” is probably closer to $30 per.
Plywood will be 10x faster to install and reduce drafts. The 2x8 will shrink and expand with RH changes which will cause gaps up to 1/4” between the boards. Prior to plywood, 1”x ~6” boards were most commonly use for sheathing, but they were T&G to mitigate gaps.

>> No.2686230

Just collect a shit ton of pallets and use the lumber from that instead. You'd probably need a jointer either way to get a real nice tight fit...

>> No.2686242

>>2686101
>it used to be 1x boards
tongue and groove
today they're called "flooring"

>> No.2686312

>>2686175
Why do you want such historic accuracy? Are you going to use hand made fasteners? Use ply and or overlapping horizontal planks with some bracing.

Don’t use diagonal boards.

>> No.2686313

>>2686312
>anon makes claim about historical use
>other anon corrects him
"Durr why do you care about historical accuracy???"
Why are so many anons just plain autistic? He never said he wanted to ve historically accurate, he said he wants to use this building technique.

>> No.2686359

>>2686101
Need to find cheap 1x shiplap boards. If you just use dimensional lumber it will have a ton of gaps once the boards shrink. The shiplap will help prevent that.

>> No.2686368
File: 36 KB, 579x536, 5a9504d781d0542b3ec1e82fc8ba7861.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686368

>>2686138
>had planned to staple strips of wool between the boards to keep it airtight.
Just hose cunt down with spray foam and call it done. End of.

>> No.2686396

>>2686175
Not as the exterior siding and only source of weatherproofing in residential construction it wasn't.

>> No.2686399

>>2686101
>1x boards are not a thing at most lumber stores (HD / Lowes)

Google an actual lumber yard.

>> No.2686429

>>2686399
Idk why this wasn't fpbp

>> No.2686434

>>2686101
>it appears 1x boards are not a thing at most lumber stores (HD / Lowes)
what? they absolutely sell 1x pressure treated planks

>> No.2686438

>>2686434
Why would you use PT for sheathing?

>> No.2686439

>>2686434
oh sorry I didn't understand you appear to want to sheath the structure in fucking exotic walnut or something

>> No.2686448

>>2686146
Planks are not stronger per weight than ply in a sheathing application, and weight matters. You're going to end up with heavy walls that are much stronger in one direction than the perpendicular, and grow/shrink a fuckload with the environment. The modern soft pine you get in planks rots a lot faster than you might think too, and flat edged boards will pretty much immediately grow cracks big enough for a draft and insects so you'd have to sit there and cut tongue and groove into all that shit, turning dollars into barely useful light scrap and sawdust. You're not saving any money here and you're making the job dramatically harder for an inferior result.

Just use ply for fucks sake. And either stain and seal or paint it. Don't skimp on the edges.

>> No.2686702

>>2686175
They more often braced the studs.

>> No.2687008

>>2686121
You're a rich guy

>> No.2688267

>>2686101
Have you considered getting rough sawn wood from a local sawmill? Should be cheapest, would allow you to get 5/4” wood ( a real inch thick), and you can get a hardwood if you prefer

>> No.2688304

>>2688267
>5/4” wood
>(a real inch thick)

*sigh*

>> No.2689293

>>2686101
Isn't this type of thing exactly what furring strips are for? They are literally the cheapest 1 by board you can get at the store because they are only planed on one side.

>> No.2689297

>>2686101
Would be interesting to consider that possibility, OP. I would run it through some actual construction engineering literature before you pull the trigger. The problem with 2 by material is it doesn't bend very easily. 1 by boards are so easy to bend into position, but that changes when you double the thickness. Furthermore, you're looking at more weight than just the extra thickness because 2 by dimensional lumber is notably more green (has more water) than other materials. Going up to 2x6 for studs doesn't seem like a very proportional increase.

I would want to buy/rent a planer or a bandsaw (or a shop) to either cut them in half or trim them up a bit.

>> No.2690840

1x pine roofing boards, cheap, plentiful. why not just try board and batten?

>> No.2690874

>>2686121
you fucked it up dumbass