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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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2681153 No.2681153 [Reply] [Original]

Posted in old thread before realizing it had hit bump limit. So here goes again.

I want to tidy up these used shift levers I bought. Can I get rid of the stains by polishing them or should I sand the spots down first? The dirty spots protrude out of the paint.

>> No.2681223
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2681223

I got this outlet at my house that hasn’t worked since I moved in and I can’t find the source of the issue. It’s right inside of the front door so directly above it there’s a switch box for lights, the doorbell on the other side of the wall, and then an outside light. So far I can trace the wire going up in the wall behind all of those boxes with the shitty HF wire tracer, it doesn’t go into any of the boxes, no clue where the issue is.

I was hoping the tracer would work through drywall, but it doesn’t do it. Is there an affordable wire tracer where you can really crank up the signal and trace through walls?

Or should I just give up and chop the wire and instead do a hackjob and pull power from the light switch box nearest to it?

>> No.2681260
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2681260

What’s something that I could do to scrape up some cash?
I can’t hold down a job due to personal stuff I’d rather not go into. I don’t want a ton of cash, just some sort of way to earn money.
My brother buys and sells stuff.
Do you guys have any ideas? Like something I could craft and sell on marketplace for a profit, or maybe some things I could buy and sell for a grand or 2 and turn over for a profit?
I want some crumbs.

>> No.2681302
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2681302

Cont’d from >>2680925

Would this other masonry bit be better for this wall anchor in brick? As a recap, it’s for a Ring doorbell, so not too much weight on it.

>> No.2681324

My toilet consistently won't flush floaters.
They just sorta get down there and roll around before popping back up.
I've tried increasing the water tank capacity. Fail.
I've tried decreasing it. Fail.
That's about all I can do, right?
Should I just replace the toilet?

>> No.2681335

I don't know if this is the right board to ask, but ive gotten good advice here before.

I'm selling home grown dehydrated vegetables in texas as a cottage business. The place i process everything has no other food but said vegetables anywhere near and theres no concern of cross contamination unless i have a rogue peanut in my beard. But I want to cover my bases with an allergen statement. Should this cover my ass?

"Allergen Statement: We do not grow, process or handle any nuts, seeds, seafood, dairy, onions or glutenous products. If you have a serious allergy, please use caution."

>> No.2681344

Why did my bandsaw blade go blunt so quickly. For context I put a brand new blade on. Cut one piece of 1" aluminium bar stock and I think a piece of 1" mild steel bar stock. Now it won't go through a piece of brass. I knew cutting metal would dull the blade quickly but I literally trashed a 12 quid blade in 2 cuts. Lidl have angle grinders for 25 quid, I feel like that would have been more cost efficient at this point?!

>> No.2681346

>>2681260
List your capabilities. No one here knows anything about you or your location. Easy to see why you're poor and mentally ill, but there is more likely than not stuff you can do.

Are you mentally limited to things you want to do, or do you have self-mastery to do things you don't enjoy? Why not learn from and copy your brother? Flea markets/boot sales are a moneymaker in much of the world.

>> No.2681358

>>2681344
is it a vertical band saw or a horizontal? if its horizontal maybe your feed was too aggressive on the steel bar, and did you go in dry? whats tpi is the saw blade? coarse tooth blades are better for wood and alu but won't last long on steel.

>> No.2681368

>>2681302
It's the same size as the anchor, so it should be alright. But. I would probably go one drill bit size lower. It has wings, so it should squeeze into the hole fine and hold better. You can always make the hole bigger, but you can hardly make it smaller.

>> No.2681391
File: 932 KB, 4032x3016, IMG_20230913_170350.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2681391

Best way to get perfectly equal fan blades ? These are slightly bent and make the whole thing wooble

>> No.2681398

>>2681153
That is oxidization which has eaten through the coating. You can sand it down, but that will fuck it up to the point you would need to sand it all in progressive grits and polish for a perfect finish
Which would cost more in your time and materials than those shifters cost many times over
Do a lil scrub and sand and try to colomatch nail polish. Or do nothing and forget those spots are there..
>>2681324
Adjust flapper and moar Wadder
>>2681391
Probably more worth your time to buy another and give that one away, or live with it
Could do some niggeneering with a laser perpendicular to the blades to make sure the edges are all set up the same, or figure a way to balance them like a wheel

>> No.2681417

>>2681302
I answered you in the other one. That bit looks about correct. If that’s the smallest of the 3 you have, use that one first. Like I said, the hole will end up being slightly larger than the bit because reasons. Should be a snug fit where you have to push the plastic part in the hole firmly or give it a small tap with a hammer. You can always step up to the next larger bit if the hole is too tight like OP’s little sister.

It’s a Ring doorbell, even if the bit is slightly too big and it’s all loose like OP’s mom, it’s barely any weight and you could probably jam adhesive in the hole with the anchor and it will hold for a few years.

>> No.2681418

>>2681398
I have the equipment to polish it up. As far as I know this is the only 7 speed bar end shifter Shimano ever made so even if I find a new old stock it's not going to be worth the money. Polishing it is then.

>> No.2681435

Water filters
Berkley or Proone for a benchtop water filter, I'm in a rental so I don't want a proper reverse osmosis under the sink setup.
Or is there a better brand I should be looking out for?
Mainly using this for drinking water and cooking.

>> No.2681439

I recently watched battlebots and I want to get into it. I barely know electronics and don't even have tools for working metal, but I do have some wood tools (circular saw, hammer drill and drillbits, etc). I took a look at the drone/RC thread but
1. Seems to be mostly about drones rather than builiding shit and RC'd it
2. Seems expensive AF, as the remote and receiver units are quite expensive.
Is there a cheap way to get into RC machines that aren't drones? Maybe something simple such as a roomba like robot with a hammer or an RC cart that fires plastic pellets?
I've looked into this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz_R9VOnnPk)) it and I'm sure I can build it and the pieces are cheap, but seems way to simple on the electronics side. I'd like something a bit more complex.

>> No.2681500

>>2681435
I’ve put RO units in my rentals. Shit is pretty simple really.

>> No.2681517

>>2681260
go to a neighborhood that has people who take care of their homes and knock on doors telling them your cleaning gutters in the area and want to do theirs as well. all you need is a ladder, a cheap scoop, a bucket to put it in (before you dump it in their green waste) and a long garden hose (if they don't have one)

>> No.2681533

>>2681358
>is it a vertical band saw or a horizontal?
I'm not sure what the convention is but the blade is vertical. It's a cheap hobby one I got off my dad. I used a 62" X 1/4" 6tpi blade. I cut both pieces dry, being too aggressive was my thought, as the ally part was pretty hot after. I've ordered 2 new blades at 10 tpi. I'm mostly cutting brass now and it's thinner stuff but I need to through some 2" mild steel bar stock (probably 4 cuts). How should I cut it in a cost effective way? I do own a mini lathe and recently upgraded to carbide insert tooling so am I better off parting it on there? I'm just not sure my carbide parting blade has the reach for thicker stock and my hss tooling blunts at the mere threat of mild steel

>> No.2681708

>>2681391
It's not only bent but also loose it's balancing weight. Google DIY fan balancing, then bend blades as needed, then balance it with, idk, nut and ducktape. If it revs less than 1.5k/min i think it'll be enough.

>> No.2681710

>>2681391
>Best way to get perfectly equal fan blades ? These are slightly bent and make the whole thing wooble

Mark each blade tip with a piece of tape or whiteout of different colors. Turn on fan. You'll be able to see which color is 'bent' out of shape. Turn off. Bend blade, turn on fan, repeat.

>> No.2681742

>>2681439
Pretty sure Hexbug makes some Battlebots rc toys. Otherwise yeah you need to get some hobby grade electronics, or gut some toys to make your own rc Battlebot.

>> No.2681778

What's the best setup for a sediment filter for a well water supply under a mobile home where temps hit -30f? Don't want to kill my new water heater before getting a few years out of it and wouldn't mind drinking a smidge less minerals, it is very iron heavy.
>>2681418
...an indexed bar end ? Funny, I have one of those on a santana arriva I just picked up, nodshure of the shifter make
Hate it, can't wait to switch it back to a normal one if tuning it isn't immediately simple. I'll try and post it if I remember tonight. Im just assuming it's indexed because I can't imagine what otherwise about it would constrain you to using it with 7spd
>>2681742
>Hexbug
Don't give me RadioShack flashbacks :(

>> No.2681897
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2681897

>>2681153
My apartment neighbors have a screen door installed, which is okay, but they slam the fucking door itself all the time, it rattles through the frame and I can hear it several doors over. I can hear when they go to work every day.

Our entryways share a wall. Is there something particularly annoying I can put on my inside entryway wall that will shake or make noise?

>> No.2681898
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2681898

>>2681153
How fix
>fill, sand, paint
Will sanding not mess up the wall texture

>> No.2681899

>>2681418
Whoops mine is 8 spd. Interested in results
>>2681897
Move out best solution

>> No.2681906
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2681906

I own a town home which has a downstairs entry with a glass door and glass in the front and side. The side window looks onto the walkway. All windows have blinds that I keep halfway down for some privacy but also to allow light in and the cats a view.

I was planning on getting privacy film for all, but learned it doesn't work at night. Is there a good way to privatize the windows, especially the glass door and side window? Even with the foyer lights off, there's ambient lighting from upstairs which would make anyone visible should they be downstairs to investigate.

The door can't be replaced because they all have to look the same.

The area is getting worse here and there's been more undesirable people coming into peoples yards, targeted home invasions, etc. that along with cameras, I would like to deter anyone from seeing inside, especially if any of us are down there.

>> No.2681987

>>2681153
Is Customizer diy engraving pen legit?
It claims it works on any material (from rocks to steel to glass) and that seems a bit ambitious and it costs too little imo to be a quality product. But reddit shillers are slow convincing me it's a game changer and I wouldn't need anything else after so any one of you have tried it or can save me from wasting money?

>> No.2681990

>>2681335
You should do a brief consult with a lawyer to know the rules that apply in your country.
there are different rules about allergies statements in every country and they vary from loose warnings, like the one you wrote, to having to declare every step of your process and have a health specialist come check it's true and declare officially that everything is free from cross contamination. So you should ask to someone that knows those rules very well so that you don't get in trouble, like a lawyer (or maybe another food producer (?))

>> No.2681998

>>2681302
Use a caliper to measure those things. Squeeze the plug with the caliper, then find the bit that fits the tightest.

>> No.2682001

>>2681324
Empty a bucket of water in your toilet to see if the problem is in the water supply or in the drain line.

>> No.2682016

>>2681898
>sanding
why sand at all?
do you see anything smooth anywhere?

>> No.2682018

how serious do I have to take lead abatement?

>> No.2682019

>>2682018
inverse proportion to the age of your children
and yes, zero is undefined

>> No.2682026

>>2682019
how best to get lead dust off walls and textured ceilings? i taped up floors, doors and made the plastic two layer door.

>> No.2682045

>>2682016
No but if I just fill it and paint it, the part where I filled will be smooth while the rest of the wall isn't

It's latex paint. Should I just sand the entire wall then repaint it. I was planning to repaint it anyway but I heard you shouldn't sand latex paint or something.

>> No.2682056

>>2682018
Lead when it's in your body NEVER leaves. It accumulates which is why it's so deadly. You collect enough lead off Chinese food cutting tools (if you don't believe me Google it) so anywhere you can avoid it the better. It literally causes mental retardation so not really important for you but don't make your kids suffer

>> No.2682057 [DELETED] 

>>2682056
Trump lost.

>> No.2682073

>>2682045
>the part where I filled will be smooth
>while the rest of the wall isn't
Are you on /diy/ asking for help fucking something up?
Well, sir, have you come to the right place!
Maybe mix some coarse sand in with your join compound, eh?

>> No.2682074

>>2682056
>NEVER
Incorrect. Only developmentally and only because it gets in your bones. The body is able to remove lead very slowly.

>> No.2682082

>>2682073
Why the would I do that

>> No.2682127

>>2682082
What do you think the effect of mixing a little sand in your joint compound be?

>> No.2682146

i'm needing to run some lengths of extension cords to some of my cars over winter
the run from the nearest indoor outlet is ~20 feet indoors then ~5-10 feet to the nearer car and ~10-15 feet to the further car

both cars will have onboard battery maintainers, which run continuously, each have a momentary max draw of ~2.5 amps, continuous draw of ~<0.5 amps

one or perhaps both will have small sump/block heaters (maybe both), and maybe a battery heater, which will run only on demand when needed, for at most say an hour before the car will be used, and each have a momentary max draw of perhaps 3 amps, continuous draw of ~2 amps

the heaters will be plugged into and controlled by wifi-enabled switched outlets ("smart outlets" in soispeak) which I can control from a phone

at most, one will be drawing ~2.5 amps and the other let's say ~10 amps for 1 hour
never would both be drawing their continuous max current, most of the time both will be drawing ~2 amps total
at/on the cars, the connections and anything else will be enclosed in inline weatherproof junction "boxes"
the maintainer units are advertised as totally waterproof but i'll probably be mounting them in junction boxes anyway

the most convenient wall outlets available are 4 regular 15 amp 120V 3 prong, non-GFCI, all on one plate
how should I arrange the wifi outlets and extension cables to minimize overload risk, cable lengths, etc.?

I was thinking put everything for each car on a separate line, all the way back to the wall outlet, but they're still on the same breaker circuit
the only other outlets available are about 15 feet further away on the opposite wall, still on the same breaker circuit
I thought the obvious place to put the wifi outlets would be in a junction box right outside but I realized that the outdoor-rated ones are larger so I'd need 2 such boxes, while the non-outdoor are only approved down to 32F
if I keep them inside I'll have to run more individual cables outside

>> No.2682147

Who here actually drills holes into concrete for anchors on semiregular basis? Do you use water for dust or to keep bit cool? Is it bad to cool a hot bit with water?

>> No.2682149

>>2682147
I have never used water for concrete drilling or seen anyone else do it. only time I use water on bits is when using those little diamond coring bits to drill through porcelain, granite, or some other high hardness material

>> No.2682155

>>2682147
No. I’m pretty sure the water is to keep the dust down when you see that in commercial drilling.

>>2682146
Bruh, I’m going to save you some money…

That “10 Amp Battery Charger” is 10A @ 12V, that’s 120W. 120W coming from the 120V outlet and through the extension cord is 1A. You need an extension cord that can handle 1 amp, not 10 amps. You don’t need a beefy extension cord for a battery tender, just make sure it’s safe outdoors.

>> No.2682160

>>2682155
the question was more about what is the safest, sanest, cleanest arrangement
since I can't, unfortunately, just install new outdoor, enclosed, waterproof outlet boxes on a new circuit all the way back to the breaker - would need an electrician to run ~50 feet of wiring at least through a bunch of walls and to a different floor
incidentally the 10 amp figure was counting up 4 different loads, 3 of which are inductive (heater elements) and allowing for resistance/drop/conversion losses and initial surge current (plus the other car's smaller load, on the same AC circuit)

you're correct, that's DC @ 12V for the battery units, however the heaters are plain old AC, not much different from a heating pad
the heaters have built-in thermostatic cutoffs, however I don't trust that enough to rely on it, hence the wifi outlets which can be programmed with timers to ensure they can never have power continously for more than say 60 minutes (or whatever)

should it be like
>mains -> larger extension cords -> wifi switched outlets -> smaller extension cords -> loads
or
>mains -> wifi switched outlets -> long extension cables -> loads
and should I group the heaters on their own lines and battery units on theirs, or do it by vehicle?

obviously the goal is to maiximize safety and minimize intermediary connections and total run lengths, and keep every connection weather-protected

sucks not having garage space for multiple vehicles

>> No.2682162 [DELETED] 

>>2682127
Suck my dick

>> No.2682166
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2682166

>>2682160
They sell a lot of outdoor outlets with timers.

Where are the new outlets? Even a non-sparky could easily run off that new box/breaker and put one of these yard boxes, bury some of that electrical PVC stuff. Or get a more portable one for Xmas lights and run one nice and beefy cord out to the box.

There’s tons of calculations on wire gauge if you do the math right and see how many watts you want to pull over what length, and then decide on a multitude of timers or bluetooth control boxes. If it were me, it’s winter only for block heaters so you don’t need it permanent, I would get one of the staked timer boxes or wifi controlled xmas boxes and then run short extension cords to the actual heaters and chargers.

>> No.2682168
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2682168

>>2682160
>>2682166
Having a bunch of long cords means more places for potential issues and will look shitty. Pic related is what I’m thinking, and you could even run the $15 non-smart version through one of those damn smart outlet adapters that only cost a few bucks.

>> No.2682196

>>2682149
>>2682155
I've done it a bunch of times without water and the dust is always annoying. Tried with water today and it did pretty good but in between the time the water evaporated and I added more the bit got super hot and insta boiled additional water. Want to know if I accidentally quenched my carbide bit each time and made it weaker.

>> No.2682219
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2682219

>>2682196
a lot of larger jobs that take safety seriously will use a vacuum system like this (or built into the tool) for dust extraction when drilling. but I doubt you're doing any real damage to the bit cooling it down like that

>> No.2682239

>>2682196
Does tungsten carbide or whatever get heat treated the same way as steel? I think you should google it. As mentioned, the water in concrete cutting and drilling with carbide and diamond tips/teeth isn’t the same as the coolant when drilling metal, it’s for dust mitigation. You don’t have to worry about concrete work-hardening and the cutting edge on a carbide tipped drill bit isn’t the same as a HSS bit going into metal.

At least that’s what I’m guessing Google would say…

>> No.2682250

I'm wanting to replicate a cracked and falling apart pillar like pic rel. What's the best way to do this?

Do not want to go at it with a hammer drill

>> No.2682251
File: 32 KB, 873x351, images - 2023-09-16T112548.201.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2682251

>>2682250
Pic related. I'm retarded

>> No.2682267

>>2682162
>Suck my dick
No, mixing a little sand in your joint compound will not result in me sucking your dick.

>> No.2682272

>>2682251
I saw a guy on YouTube who makes these, he hammers / bends the rebar, puts it into a casting mould sideways and then fills it partly with sand or some clay like stuff before pouring concrete. You could do it with candle wax too (just chisel a candle out and put it inside the rebar) or probably some sand clay mixture, heat to 70C to remove candle wax or remove sand once concrete is set. Leave it in a shallow ditch for a week to get the mold/algae effect. Or ask figurine painters/warhammer people, they usually know how to do it

>> No.2682324

>>2681153
In the days before aerosol brake cleaner, how did people clean brakes and shit? Dunk it in a parts washer full of varsol? Spray everything with gasoline?

>> No.2682338

Are there any good, free building design programs. I'm not really looking for layout/design, but laying out blocks, piping, conduit, beams...the actual shit you will be building with. Do I just torrent revit at that point?

>> No.2682432
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2682432

my scrollwheel click died, so I ordered new button.
Question - how do I solder it to the PCB? The solder joints are on the back of the button AND on the PCB and they're tiny as hell, so I assume have to connect them somehow
Do I need to just to heat it up and press down or something?

>> No.2682447

>>2682324
Alcohol, acetone, etc for good linings. Degreasing brake shoes before drilling the rivets and relining it doesn't matter what you used so we used gasoline most times. Remember the era before brake cleaning spray was the drum brake era (it sucked). Discs are love.

For fun watch videos on truing drums and arc-grinding shoes to match the radius. Lots of interesting old tech went into making drums slightly less terrible.

>> No.2682481

>>2682045
Use a heatgun, the paint will start curling and you can just scrape off.

>> No.2682484

>>2682219
It's not just safer, it's a lot cleaner. Drilling holes to run conduit through a wall in a grocery store for example, with proper dust collection, you can tell the manager that covering the produce with plastic film is unnecessary.

>> No.2682526
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2682526

Want to soak in a hot tub ~4x weekly for heat acclimation purposes, but I live in a 2nd floor apartment with only a standup shower. Lemme get your ideas.

>> No.2682527
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2682527

>>2682432

Until someone who actually knows comes by, you could look at a video, or, just go post in /ohm/ where they will know.

>> No.2682561

>>2682526
Buy a chest freezer, fill it with hot water.

>> No.2682585
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2682585

Is the black stuff on the blue concrete mildew? It's in a basement where it has flooded in the past.

>> No.2682589

>>2682527
Looks like eric cartman projectile shitted all over your wall there

>> No.2682598

How do I remove the sticky residue left behind by very old duct tape?
Ideally I'd like to find something to simply dissolve it completely without needing to scrub it, but so far I haven't been able to remove it even with scrubbing. I've tried a variety of soaps as well as isopropyl alcohol, and the brush simply smears it around and the surface remains sticky when dried off.
The surface contains plastic and metal, so I need a solvent that won't damage either of those.

>> No.2682603

>>2681260
fishing change out of vending machines

depending on your luck and traffic of the vending machines, you can get up to 10 dollars in about 3-4ish days (Though this was at a school where people were stupid enough to leave change)

As for public vending machines, stadiums and other high traffic areas seem promising, you can block the change return with a rag/sock and monitor to make sure nobody rips it out, if it works it'll give you spare change.

But this is a absolutely bum way to get money, there's way better ways to make money.

I'd start with going online and looking for things people need done on websites like fiverr

>> No.2682619

So I need an aluminum tube that varies in width smoothly (for aesthetic reasons) from something very narrow, to over double that wide, and back again about half. How would I go about making this in my home shop? The only thing I can think might work is trying to shape the tube on a lathe, but I don't have a lathe.

>> No.2682620
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2682620

>>2681260
>Like something I could craft and sell on marketplace for a profit
3D printing. Things like custom lithophane nightlights (pic related) are very easy to churn out and people tend to love them. I did it for a short time years ago (not selling online, but to friends and family and such) and could make about $20-$25 profit on each one.
Problem is that you need a 3D printer, so $200 or so to get started, and that because of how easy these are to make I'm sure the online marketplace is flooded with options, so I don't know how likely you are to get customers when there are so many other sellers they could go to.
My customers were all boomers who had no idea something like these even existed.
Also due to the speed of 3D printing, even if you had orders flowing in you'd be making less than minimum wage (95% of your time is spent just waiting for the printer to finish, but still) unless you run multiple printers at the same time.

>> No.2682622

>>2682598
Try SuperClean.
Purple bottle.

>> No.2682623

>>2682619
Does it have to be aluminum?
Does it have to be a tube? (Can it be solid?)
Does it have to be smooth radially as well as longitudinally?

How big?
Is this for an "adult toy"?

>> No.2682624

>>2682619
Aluminum melts easily, you could shape a tube out of clay/wax/etc and cast it in aluminum.

>> No.2682625
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2682625

So I have a digital multimeter that doesn't measure resistance right ever since I measured a 220VAC source with the knob 180° out. My understanding is that resistance is just measuring voltage drop whilst the meter injects a voltage across it, hence the mains source has ruined the voltage source by driving it a few orders of magnitude out of spec.

So the questions are:
- am I correct in this guess?
- is the voltage source just going to be a SMD VRM?
- given the old one can still measure voltage, can I use it to probe out the (identical model) replacement one and determine the part I need?
- any hints?

>> No.2682626
File: 4 KB, 626x331, tube.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2682626

>>2682623
Yes
Yes it needs to be a tube
Maybe this ms paint image will illustrate

Probably about 7 inches long
I know how this is all adding up, but surprisingly no.

>>2682624
I have absolutely zero experience with that sort of thing but it had crossed my mind.

>> No.2682627

>>2681906
>it doesn't work at night
It does if there's an exterior light that's brighter than the interior light

>> No.2682643
File: 486 KB, 1280x960, 31DB329E-BEFD-4241-8526-C01A911EA917.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2682643

>>2682625
Have you opened it up and looked at the board? I bet it would be easy to see a burnt up component.

Also unless it’s a real expensive meter, I would probably toss it because the $20-$40 for a new DMM off Amazon may save you more than faulty results, count it as a loss to stupidity.

>>2682598
It’s going to be hard to not wash or scrub it a little bit if you want chemicals that are safe for plastic.

I like paint thinner or acetone or some shit when it’s metal or glass that I won’t ruin, and then I use Goo Gone for adhesive residue on important parts with plastic and such. And this orange scented stuff I think is the same as Goo Gone, it seems to be safe on most materials IME. Blot it on the adhesive crap, let it soak up the Goo Gone, then apply more and let it soak more, and it should get to a point where you can wipe it off.

Those newfangled plastic razor blades are nice too, get the sticky shit soaked in the orange stuff and one pass with the plastic scraper

>> No.2682645

>>2682643
>I bet it would be easy to see a burnt up component.
Nothing obviously stuck out. I assume any damage is internal. Resistance measurement does work, just the values are utterly off: zero is zero, but open is ~300 Ohms, this suggests that something related to voltage generation is stuffed? I'm guessing the calibration resistors are shared across voltage and resistance, so if it measures voltage right then that means the calibration resistors are right?
>unless it’s a real expensive meter, I would probably toss it because the $20-$40 for a new DMM off Amazon may save you more than faulty results
This is purely educational, gonna need a new meter to diagnose the old one anyway.

>> No.2682647

>>2682645
Post in the electronics thread. I’m not allowed over there but they know components and shit like that.

>> No.2682649

>>2682626
You can use a drill as a makeshift lathe if you can get clever with how you affix your stock into it.

If you can weld, i have somewhat daft solution:
get pipe with diameter equal to the diameter you need at its widest
Cut to length + a lil bit
Make a series of narrow pizza-slice cuts from each end, from the end where you want it narrow to the middle where you want it wide.
Cinch it up so you close the pizza-slice voids.
Weld those seams.
Cut to final length.
Grind and polish.

Sorry, this process is hard to explain and I can't draw you a picture because I'm phoneposting.

>> No.2682698

>>2682626
You may be able to form shape and trim excess by setting the tube on leather or stab in wood and fill with vaseline hammer a ram to balloon shape and draw a ball bearing from big to small end.
You may know a reloader who has some way to form it with dies on a press.

>> No.2682699

>>2682598
There are many types of plastic. MEK doesn’t damage all of them.

>> No.2682702

>>2681391
Spin ten times and get an average of what lands on six o’clock and drill a hole in the heavy spot or bubble gum weight.

>> No.2682707

>>2681153
Greetings from /g/.
Kits to convert LCD panels to HDMI monitors are widely available, but I cannot find a kit to convert an iPad 12.9" panel. Does this kit exist?

>> No.2682836

>>2682619
>shape the tube on a lathe
A lathe is a subtractive form of manufacturing. You could make what you're looking for if the hole of the tuve is a constant width. Although it would likely waste a lot of material. What are the approximate dimensions?
>>2682626
I could probably make this on my lathe. I might even be able to bore out the centre. How thick does the skin of this need to be? Could you roll/hammer form some alu sheet stock then weld them together and grind it smooth. You could probably buy a welder and grinder cheaper than a lathe.

>> No.2682840
File: 1002 KB, 1989x3541, FpAZkA7aQAEnwR3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2682840

>>2682527
thanks leddit anon

>> No.2682921

Is a $40 line laser a waste of time or good enough for indoor use? Mostly for hanging shit straight on the walls

>> No.2682983
File: 280 KB, 1280x960, 67CF622A-3A6A-4B09-9077-277F5A6515B9.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2682983

>>2682921
I have a Bosch laser level (picrel) and one of the laser tape measures, they were on sale for the holidays a couple years back like 50% off.

For hanging a single thing, it’s whatever. But when I did like 3 shelves, it was really helpful as a reference point. I still want to buy a tripod for it though, setting it on a ladder wasn’t the best way to use it.

The laser measurer is good for room dimensions and such, calculating how much material you need for a project, etc. I still use a regular tape more often.

>> No.2683026

My box fan started squeaking a few days ago so I took the motor apart and put a few drops of oil in both of the bearings. It started squeaking again just a bit not too long ago. Is a few drops not enough? Though one of the bearings didn't have visible wicking material, not sure if that means anything.

>> No.2683044

>>2682619
>So I need an aluminum tube that varies in width smoothly (for aesthetic reasons) from something very narrow, to over double that wide, and back again about half. How would I go about making this in my home shop? The only thing I can think might work is trying to shape the tube on a lathe, but I don't have a lathe.

Get a thin walled tube and attach some hydraulic fittings to each end.
Wrap the tube in high tensile strength material very tightly on both ends, then gradually slim it down towards the middle.

Then use a grease press to hydroform it using water.

>> No.2683051
File: 480 KB, 960x1280, 1D45CFB4-93CC-47D3-9971-81CD0E9D3727.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2683051

Wtf is this drill bit for? Looks like it’s a little under 1/4”

>> No.2683067

>>2681260
could start sucking dick I heard going price is 5 dollars.

>> No.2683078

>>2681153
hi retard here
looking for new furniture/shelves

had some renovations and dust went literally everywhere i swept all of it but i realized i have fungus on the wall
i removed fungus but then realized i it infected the furniture that was standing near wall
it's not too bad it doesn't smell (yet) but i am thinking about throwing furniture away and buy tall shelves and some sealed containers/crates (so i just have to wipe the container from dust from time to time)
the thing is that i know nothing about that i was thinking about some easy to assemble shelves but i'm a retard on this topic
any advices ?

>> No.2683094

>>2681533

You should be using a fine toothed blade to cut metal, 18tpi minimum but 24tpi is better.

>> No.2683098

>>2682147
You use water to keep respirable crystalline silica out of your lungs.

https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/publications/OSHA3682.pdf

>> No.2683106
File: 2.74 MB, 4624x3468, 20230917_170426.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2683106

What is this piece on the left called?

I'm trying to fix a leaking tub and replaced the hot/cold valve.

I then discovered the little piece inside had a small chunk missing. I used an alley key and some force and it came out.

I cannot figure out what this is called.

>> No.2683107
File: 2.73 MB, 4624x3468, 20230917_170435.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2683107

>>2683106
Sorry phone posting. Piece on the bottom

>> No.2683173

Hi. So I've killed most of the weeds in my lawn. I've moved my lawn. Now the only thing left is to make my lawn green and soft again.

I don't need a perfect backyard, but I'd like it to feel like grass and not death crunches when I stop on it. Any tips on how to do this?

I do not have any way to transport heavy machinery so I can't rent anything.

>> No.2683177
File: 2.39 MB, 3000x2586, dial calipers.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2683177

Got this for $60CAD. I feel like i overpaid. But I had to buy calipers like today for my class tomorrow.

>> No.2683234

>>2683051
Pilot bit for a hole saw arbour. The checks at the top are for the set screw to bite

>> No.2683445

>>2683173
Many rental places will deliver for a small fee.
Well-watered grass is soft grass.
Consider alternative ground-coverings. Clover is nice.

>> No.2683549

Someone's gas powered stove got some of the wires chewed by pests, making the oven not work. The fix is easy, just need to patch the gap between cables. Two questions, where can I buy cable for this? And could this be a potential safety hazard since gas powered and since the cables would be patched?

>> No.2683562

>>2682647
y r u not allowed?

>> No.2683616

>>2683549
Find out what gauge wire it is that you’re trying to connect. Get a short length of that wire (Home Depot has small spools or pay by the foot), and then you can use wire nuts or butt splices or solder the things. Butt splices would probably look the cleanest in that situation but you need to crimp them somewhat securely. If you wanted to do it super nice, on Amazon you can buy marine grade butt splices that have shrink wrap and will seal nicely, or they also sell splices with solder in them + heat shrink, so you put the wires in either end of the splice and hit it with a little butane torch and it will be soldered and sealed in a few seconds. The marine grade ones might be sold at local auto parts stores too, and the cheap butt splices definitely are sold at Home Depot or auto stores.

As long as the connections are secure, there shouldn’t be any issues with sparks. And if there is gas leaking into the area with wires, you have other dangerous issues.

>>2683562
No smoking allowed over there. They don’t like ash in their circuit boards I guess.

>> No.2683618
File: 681 KB, 828x1423, 625F2590-A9D6-4834-89A1-03164AEAAF5D.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2683618

>>2683549
>>2683616
Here’s the ones with the solder. With those, you won’t need the crimping pliers like regular butt splices, just a source of heat like the butane torch you use for your dabs I think.

I mean you could fuckin twist the wires and put electrical tape over it too. Not like the oven is going to be shaking much, something that is of concern when splicing automotive wires.

>> No.2683644

>>2683616
>o smoking allowed over there. They don’t like ash in their circuit boards I guess
I don't think that's the actual reason...

>> No.2683656

>>2683616
>>2683618
Yea I was going to be opening the oven to check out what the wire gauge is. Cool, I appreciate all the help and recommendations. Going to run the options over with the owner of the stove.

>> No.2683674
File: 320 KB, 681x417, hinge.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2683674

If one wanted to buy a replacement hinge for a hinge that looks like this, how would one go about it? Measurement standards seem inconsistent.

>> No.2683678

>>2683674
What's it for?
Take it the store with you and see if you can find anything close enough to work.
Maybe even try antique stores, or some of those reclaimed building materials places that are popping up.

>> No.2683699

>>2683678
Some cabinet from the 1910s
Looks like going to Lowes is the only answer

>> No.2683700

I have a pot. I used it to boil water.
It was left on full blast electric burner and the water dried up and it stayed on the burner full heat for like an hour, it got fried.
The bottom warped and delaminated. (It's got some layer for induction cooking, I use gas now)

It was totally blackened and rusty and looked awful but I cleaned it before and got it looking alright, then a few years pass (had it stored, pulled it out) and it's blackened and rusty again. It's the only one of the bunch that did this.
So, I cleaned it well last time and it was working and stayed clean but apparently it lost it's immunity and somehow discolored again?
Can this be prevented or should I just replace it?

I saw some articles saying stainless steel has a chromium "film" but I always thought it was just an alloy. Does stainless steel cookware have a film or coating on it that can be burned off and is that what I'm probably dealing with?

I can't post pics I cleaned it again, it's almost a mirror-like finish now and looks like-new but I'm just concerned about the longevity and curious if I wasted my time.

It was stored properly, no dank basement or anything. Just in a cabinet.

>> No.2683711

>>2681906
Cameras and fancy stuff makes it look like you got stuff to hide. You should take a hammer to your car a bit and roigh up your garden so wanna be thieves think youre broke.

>> No.2683822

>>2683549
>And could this be a potential safety hazard
Since you had to come to /diy/ to find out how to do it, I'm leaning toward YES.

>> No.2683897

>>2681153
how do I figure out what material a wall is made out of without damaging it?
i want to hang up a wall mounted safe and need a wall that can bear the load.
1 out of the four walls is def some plywood or something you could accidentally walk through.
the rest are solid but I don't know what exactly they are made of.
It's a Euro house btw.
the three walls in question all feel/sound the same. but one or them is an exterior wall and the others are interior so I'm not sure if they really are all the same.
is there some tool or method of figuring out what type it is without drilling holes?

>> No.2683902

>>2683897
Knock on it? Or feel it? What are the possibilities? Drywall, old plaster, or brick/concrete.

>> No.2683916

>>2683902
that's the problem, I can't tell, i don't have the experience. its at least brick wall. i doubt its concrete, the house is relatively old. but is it solid brick or hollow? and would it be strong enough for a 30 to 35 ish lbs safe, with contents more like 40 lbs.

>> No.2683950

>>2683916
Pop a couple holes into it (with a nail or drill bit) somewhere inconspicuous, like just under a cabinet.

Depending on what happens, you'll discover something about the wall.
If it's block or brick, you won't really be able to drill or nail beyond a certain point.
If it's lath and plaster or drywall, you'll pierce through the skin and hit a void.

Whatever material it is, the wall itself will be able to hold your safe -- you just have to make sure you mount it to the studs (if it has studs) or with the proper anchors if it's some kind of masonry.

>> No.2683952

>>2683950
I know you said without drilling holes.
Look into buying or renting one of those ultrasound stud finders.

>> No.2683954

>>2683916
If it’s brick but your not sure if it’s hollow, drill your holes already. Whether you get a hollow spot or a solid spot in the brick, you need a hole either way and then get the appropriate anchors. A brick wall should hold the weight assuming it’s spread out across enough area and you use enough appropriate anchors.

Just decide whether or not you’re going to go through with it, then drill smaller holes in each of the spots where you’re going to mount it. If there’s a big enough void, make the hole a little bigger I guess you could use toggles or something in those holes, and in the solid spots, use big masonry screws/bolts.

You might want to ask for help from somebody who knows the difference between brick and plaster though, that’s a good amount of weight if you’ve never hung anything before.

>> No.2683979

>>2681897
Home audio subwoofer

>> No.2684001

>>2683822
I know how to do it, it's an easy fix. Just asking since gas and electricity can be dangerous. But so long as the cable is properly patched then it shouldn't be dangerous at all.

>> No.2684046

>>2681153
With the super high home prices right now and for the foreseeable future, I have thought of designing my own home and just buying land. I'm super lucky in that my dad and brother are both electricians, an old friend's entire family are plumbers, and my uncle owns a business pouring foundations, but also used to build houses. So I have hookups for practically everything. But realistically how hard is it to make a good home design, and is it worth it to build over buy even right now? I took a bunch of drafting classes in high school as well so I know all the basics and some advanced stuff for architecture, but realistically how hard would it be to fully design a home. And what would you think the cost would be normally for a 2500 sq ft home not including the price of the land?

>> No.2684072

>>2681153
have a wall like pic which I want to plaster do I first do the wall joints let it dry and then plaster or can I do it all in one go? Using lime plaster its a normal mix of 1:3 lime:sand.

>> No.2684075
File: 644 KB, 690x517, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684075

>>2684072
forgot pic

>> No.2684080
File: 428 KB, 1392x1264, DSC_1453dd.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684080

want double check that all is good, and should I use 90 Tee instead of that 45 tee?

>> No.2684116

My kids were fucking around with clay a while ago and stained the popcorn ceiling. Could never really get it off. Should I just redo the popcorn ceiling in those spots or is there a way I can clean it? Have tried scrubbing and stuff no dice.

>> No.2684122

How do I stop cats (or maybe dogs) shitting in my garden?
I've looked up that certain smells deter them but not sure how to place them- do I put them in some sort of box or something? Don't want to spray directly into holly bush soil.
I have a camera that would catch dog owners, but it doesn't seem to be a dog, and seems like the cats are sneaking under the camera blindspot

>> No.2684123

>>2684122
Moth balls help.

>> No.2684189
File: 1.66 MB, 3024x4032, 1688115551662.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684189

how do I remove picrel, plumbing bros?
I'm guessing there must be a 22mm thread in there, but nowhere visible to unscrew it.
yes, it's a bidet.

>> No.2684190

>Elderly Customers fridge is leaking
>Turns out the freezer drain is frozen over
>she doesn't have Drain Tube Heater
I ordered one but it won't come for a while, would it be safe to just temporarily use a piece of hanger wire to hang from the defrost heater? I don't want to cause some sort of chemical reaction when the wire gets hot. It's a steel hanger.

>> No.2684285

>>2684123
Will try, thank you my man

>> No.2684442

>>2684190
>It's a steel hanger
It's fine. Manufacturers use stainless steel wire as the hanger.

>> No.2684446

So I've got an existing run out to the garage with two hot 120V legs. The hot legs go through a pair of linked (cross-bar) 20A breakers. Everything is 10AWG. Currently one of the legs is used for the outlets in the garage, and the other for the lights. Question is, is there anything in NEC that says I can't also use both legs for 220V equipment? e.g. both legs feeding the lathe, while each leg also continues to be used for the outlets/lights?

>> No.2684456

>>2683106
I would call it some kind of hose barb
but you may want to find an exploded diagram of your specific faucet handle to see what the manufacturer calls it

>> No.2684460
File: 33 KB, 768x479, zinsser-primer-768x479.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684460

>>2681153
PRIMERS for a Pet Hoarding situation

So I'm fixing up a rental for my aunt and I need to cover up the smell of about 20-30 years of cats pissing and shitting just about wherever they pleased, including on the walls near where furniture was

I need a primer that will absolutely be sure to cover up the smell and I think I've narrowed it down to Cover Stain and BIN primer
I'm leaning towards BIN but it's like double the price of Cover Stain per 5 gal so I'm wondering if Cover Stain would do the job just fine and I could save the money
Also if anyone knows of a cheaper but "dirtier" option I can use on the basement (the smell is worse down there but obviously it doesn't need a neat finish) please halp

The house itself was built in 1912

>> No.2684483
File: 389 KB, 1089x1839, 20230920_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684483

this hole I patched yesterday is weak and I can just press my finger into it. Should I add more layers or what?

>> No.2684484 [DELETED] 
File: 550 KB, 1016x2192, turbo_meaning.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684484

What does "turbo" mean? This usage seems incorrect, even figuratively.

>> No.2684510

>>2684484
No idea, but I have seen a surge of cancers in people just this summer.

>> No.2684582 [DELETED] 
File: 26 KB, 796x1043, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684582

retard here, I have a pump for the hot water line but shit pressure for cold water (see A), should I install a second pump (B) or put a T in the exit of the current pump and get cold water from there (C)

>> No.2684584
File: 48 KB, 979x1254, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684584

>>2684582
as if you needed proof of my retardation
I have a pump for the hot water line but shit pressure for cold water (see A), should I install a second pump (B) or put a T in the exit of the current pump and get cold water from there (C)

>> No.2684619

>>2684484
I see this slang often on other boards, it might help you to decipher it:
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=turboautism

>> No.2684623

I need to level some outdoor wooden stairs. Can I just dig down, level it out, and put pavers down? I know for a paver walkway/patio you'd get some sand for leveling, some gravel, etc. but I'm lazy as fuck.

>> No.2684636

>>2684484
It's short for turbine, which when used when a piston engine, can force more air into the combustion chamber. With more air, more fuel can be used and therefor the engine produces more power. This can result in the vehicle said engine is attached to to go faster. Thus, turbo- is used to refer to things that go faster or are more powerful than normal.

>> No.2684644
File: 26 KB, 360x360, pow teeth.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684644

>>2683177

IMO it's near impossible to overpay for a precision tool. Doubly so if it is for measurement.
I'd say medium.

>> No.2684750

Any electricians here? I'm thinking about becoming one at 27. Never done anything with my hands before and honestly scared to take the first step. I always feel like i will fuck shit up so never tried anything in my life.. so is it as hard as some people make it out to be? Can i be a midwit and still manage to pass?

>> No.2684756
File: 370 KB, 663x849, 19875397862.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684756

Fellas, my ancient apartment has two 15 amp circuits for the entire place. Problem is one of them provides power for the entire apartment, and I have yet to find out what the second breaker controls.
As a result, my lights flicker nonstop from other devices power draw.
I also fucking trip the breaker every goddamn day
How do I manage this?
How do I stop the light flickering?
How do I stop the breaker tripping?
Thanks anons

>> No.2684758

>>2684756
Unplug some shit. Put lower draw LED bulbs anywhere you can.

The second breaker might be for your kitchen appliances. That sort of sucks though, only 2 breakers. If you have renter’s insurance, you could drop a larger breaker in there and when the place burns down, claim ignorance. Seems like you should have at least a 20A breaker because each outlet should be good for 15A, but there’s no telling without knowing the wiring.

>> No.2684768

>>2684750
You could die on the job and for what, 60k/yr? A sense of contribution to society? Why not just get a cozy office role

>> No.2684785

>>2684768
Union sparky gigs are pretty sweet, like mid-30s an hour within a couple years and you will make bank if you take that Union pay OT or take some side gigs.

It’s only really dangerous if you’re a dumbass and/or don’t work safe. Don’t rush and you should be fine. Plus a random 120V shock isn’t going to do it, and any higher voltage stuff should have lockouts.

>> No.2684789
File: 910 KB, 2876x2013, PXL_20230921_122355490.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684789

>>2682625
Did you check for a blown fuse? I decided to check continuity on a large capacitor and blew the fuse on mine. Still measured voltage fine but no more tone. Couldn't find the fuse in any brick and mortar store so I sold it and bought a new one.
Speaking of DMM, does anyone know how I can increase my potential? I Usually measure around .3V- .5V AC. Want to at least be able to consistently discharge static when I touch people.

>> No.2684802

>>2684483
Put some thin mesh or tape on it before you mud

>> No.2684828

>>2684789
Was it those goofy white fuses? I blew one of mine, you can buy the new ones online but Home Depot sells glass fuses that work a lot of the time. I think the OE like $10 fuses are slow blow and a 10A fuse will take up to 20A for a few seconds before they blow. The cheap glass 10A will blow at 10A. But if you short the thing out doing something dumb, the most likely scenario, you’re going to be past that 10A-20A buffer so what difference does it make with the fast blow glass fuse?

>> No.2684838
File: 3.14 MB, 4032x3024, 46686377-1B8E-4ED7-BF31-6AD8E7D588EE.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684838

Dis safe?

>> No.2684843
File: 316 KB, 1600x1200, Lexibook.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684843

I managed to accidentally gouge out the top of the battery compartment screw in pic related while trying to remove it (the pic isn't mine, but same device and screw.)
It's a very tiny screw, like eyeglass size. The top hole is pretty well squareish by now.

What do I do? I've already tried supergluing another bolt to the top surface and grabbing that with pliers, using a knife tip, using a drop of UV resin with a screwdriver pressed in to make a neat-looking Phillips-head groove, etc. No tools I've tried can get purchase on the metal and every adhesive I've tried just shears off when I start trying to turn it.
I know in theory I could drive a drill bit down through the neck of the screw, but even if I could find one small enough to match, wouldn't that run a serious risk of damaging/destroying the device or at least the threads in the plastic for that hole and prevent me from putting a new screw in?

Anyone else have any ideas for things I haven't tried? There's enough space in the head to cut new grooves if I had the world's tiniest hacksaw.

>> No.2684856

>>2684843
Worlds tiniest hacksaw is a dremel with the smallest saw blade attachment you can find usually, but you’ll probably still cut a groove in the cover as well. Screw extractor could work, left rotating drill bit could work if you don’t go to deep. Combination is best, drill a tiny hole in the center and then use screw extractor.

There are no actual internal threads btw, it looks like a self tapping plastic screw. If you drill it out you could get away with using a bigger self tapping plastic screw (of better quality, preferably) if there’s enough space inside

>> No.2684864

>>2684460
It really depends on the nature of the stain.
Different primers may draw out the stain through the primer versus actually covering it.
I was using Kilz3 "Premium" for a project, which included wood trim that was sealed in high gloss poly. It wasn't the "right" primer for that application (since you generally don't want to use a water-based primer over an oil-based finish), but I had sanded and it has good adhesion. So I'm generally happy with Kilz3.

But then I had to prime the inside of a kitchen cabinet where the previous homeowner had their garbage can ... so there were lots of stains on the walls and floor of the cabinet.
After three coats of Kilz3 the stains were still showing through the primer.
I changed to a shellac-based primer (which is like four times more expensive) and it worked great to cover the stains.

Honestly, in your shoes I'd first buy only one quart of the Cover Stain to see if it does the trick, then a quart of the BIN. Don't commit on a 5 gallon pail until you know you've got one that works.

Unless there's an expert here who knows for sure.

>> No.2684869

>>2684483
You should try something other than chewing gum.

I usually mix up a small amount of the 45-minute Easy Sand drywall mud.
Not the simplest stuff to work with (compared to the spackle they sell in a tube), but it dries nice and hard, and the end result is nicer.

>> No.2684884

quick google search didnt turn up anything
are lcd resin printers quieter than filament ones? seems like less moving parts = quieter

>> No.2684889
File: 1.71 MB, 1500x2000, 1695320828180.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2684889

I dont know how to fix my toilet, ive tried a few guides i found but no luck. I can either set it so the bowl is empty but the tank gets filled, or the bowl gets filled and the tank never shuts off.
With the second case if i tap the fill valve it turns off. Any advice on how to balance this system?

>> No.2684900

>>2684884
3d printers*

>> No.2684955

>>2684889
How is your tank so clean? Mines filled with rust and limescale.

>> No.2684965

>>2684955
Different municipal supply or water softener maybe? I think my water down here in FL has a lot more minerals than my Lake Michigan water in Chicago.

Or the toilet is only a few years old. Doesn’t take long for that plastic shit inside to break.

>> No.2685002

>>2684889
Turn the black screw on the top of the float.
Right now the float is too high - the water level is getting so high that it overflows into the overflow drain before the float closes the valve.
Adjust the float so it shuts the valve before the water level reaches the top of the overflow.

>> No.2685003

>>2684955
I cleaned it before the pic. I was worried if it was dirty thats all anons would mention instead of actual advice.

>>2685002
I set it like that because if it doesnt overflow then the bowl doesnt fill up. I don't know why but its frustrating.
My current workaround is slapping the side of the tank when the bowls full. That little jostling of the float causes it so shut off so my guts telling me something is sticking.

>> No.2685020

>>2685003
...you didn't clean it with bleach did you ?

>> No.2685021
File: 239 KB, 1024x689, Tsunami_by_hokusai_19th_century-1024x689-370595070.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685021

>>2681153
I want to print a design onto an old membrane keyboard I have. I was thinking of just making a stencil and spray painting it since I was already going to paint the base, but the design is too detailed. I got the idea of using a UV printer from https://youtu.be/775l_xc7-ho?t=638&si=tXcnqejY6_scmqBH.. Do local printing shops even have UV printers? I don't want to pay out the ass to ship it to some online business and have them do it. Any other ways I could print onto it? It's just the case btw, not the keys.

>> No.2685028

>>2685020
Nah, just a scrub brush. It didnt take much, we generally dont have hardwater over here.
You got any ideas on how to fix my problem?

>> No.2685038

Their*

>> No.2685056

>I set it like that because if it doesnt overflow then the bowl doesnt fill up.
Isnt there supposed to be a hose on a clip pointing down into that tube?

>> No.2685061

>>2685028
>You got any ideas how to fix my problem?
Adjust your flapper it isn't closing right hence continual filling
How old are the parts ?

>> No.2685070

I ruined my last flapper with bleach tabs and it was some obscure model so i needed an adjustable flapper. it ranges from leaving bowl empty or double flushing.
Thanks for reminding me tho, i raised the water level and tweaked my adjustable. maybe i can stop double flushing

>> No.2685072

oh, and if you use those toilet tank bleach tabs theyll ruin your flapper seal within 3 months and youll hear the tank refilling in the middle of the night.

>> No.2685074

>>2685061
But if i adjust it even one click down then the bowl doesnt fill. I dont know, its over a decade at this point and i think all the insides are original.

>> No.2685130

I'm trying to understand how much force a swing set experiences.

I can figure out the max downward force, which would be centripetal acceleration plus gravity,
But how much forward/back force would there be?
It's obv 0 at max height when the load is stationary, but how does it increase as you go back down?

>> No.2685165

I've got what looks like a standard 1/2" BSP tap cartridge I need to replace, but whatever joker designed this piece of shit put a 29mm flange on it instead of the 24mm every cartridge I can find has. Replacing the tap doesn't seem like an option, it's mounted to the back side of a bathtub where I can't possibly get a spanner, I can only assume they plumbed it and then mounted it to the fucking wall after.

My only real idea is to buy another few roughly the right size and bodge together a new one using the old housing, but that doesn't seem like much of a solution.

>> No.2685178

>>2685130
coy answer:
>the force of a dumbass 16 year old taking a running start to slam into their friend as hard as possible "so they can over the bar!"

>> No.2685291

>>2681153
Greetings, I have a couple of water deposits but one is higher than the other; they have a height difference of around 11 cms, so there must be some kind of siphon effect, so how can estimate how much water there will be stagnant in the lower one? the higher one has 700 liters and the lower one 1200.
Thanks.

>> No.2685300

>>2685003
>I set it like that because if it doesnt overflow then the bowl doesnt fill up.
The float should be set to ~1" below the top of the overflow tube.
The white tube goes into the overflow tube to fill the bowl.
Water to fill the tank comes out near the bottom of the fill valve.
The hose is there solely to fill the bowl.

>> No.2685302

>>2685300
>The float should be set to ~1" below the top of the overflow tube.

The float should be set to shut off when the water is ~1" below the top of the overflow tube.

>> No.2685318

My old water heater is shitting the bed (heating element dying). Am I overthinking how difficult installing a tankless electric water heater is?
If my old tanked water heater already has its own 240V circuit, shouldn't I be able to just swap the hoses over and plug it in?

>> No.2685328

>>2685318
>already has its own 240V circuit,

check the amps on that circuit vs. the tankless you will need. Some need ungodly amounts of current, which is why the gas types are preferred.

>> No.2685330

>>2681153
test

>> No.2685380

>>2685328
So if that checks out, it should be plug and play, right?

>> No.2685386

>>2685380
why not. I think they are on-demand, meaning you set the temperature once and then when you draw water it somehow detects the flow and turns on the heat.

As long as you're not taking a shower while the washing machine is running you might get by with a tiny one that still probably draws 30+ amps at 240 volts.

>> No.2685404

>>2684768
Here in Denmark the safety protocolls are very high standard so i think the chance is very low. And office jobs is way to normie for me I think.. all the karens and shit would drive me insane

>> No.2685415

>>2685386
>Somehow detects the flow
Flow meter
>>2681418
So did you do it ? Post results pl0x

>> No.2685444

>>2685380
Where do you live? Somewhere cold?

Tankless requires a lot of power, the smallest units for like a studio apartment run off the same 240V 30A or whatever circuit you would run for a 60gal tank for a 3-4 bedroom house. If you’re somewhere with cold winters and/or you want to be able to shower while the dishwasher is running or there’s a load of laundry going, I think it’s 2, 3, or 4 different 240A breakers.

I wanted to go tankless when I swapped my water heater last time and then I saw that even in South Florida where our cold tap water is like a heated pool, I would at minimum need a second 240V circuit.

Tankless heaters use less juice than tanks overall because they don’t need to stay warm 24/7, but they pull a ton of juice when they’re actually running. Websites for tankless heaters will probably have a chart with how many people in the house plus climate and how many amps and circuits you need.

>>2685386
>I think they are on-demand
Anon, you are worse than me, at least I try to admit when I don’t know shit about something and I’m just posting a guess because I’m bored,

>> No.2685448
File: 518 KB, 828x1083, C36D82ED-82EF-4AFA-8AA3-E1E98FDB15BE.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685448

>>2685444
>>2685380
This is a small electric tankless, the bottom on this chart. It’s 75A @ 240V. Requires 8ga wiring and 2x 40A double pole breakers. And that one isn’t even be good enough to run a shower if you’re in the upper great lakes in the winter.

>> No.2685451
File: 477 KB, 828x1374, C6C7DD6B-107F-422C-AFE5-32BE14382866.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685451

>>2685448
27kW is good enough for 2 showers in the deep south and they recommend you have 200A service.

>> No.2685458

>>2685444
>Where do you live?
Southern Virginia
I live alone and don't plan on running a dishwasher or washing machine at the same time

>> No.2685469
File: 524 KB, 828x1110, 2E934F3E-00DD-4F93-AEB5-07FB7ECA29B3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685469

>>2685458
Your still looking at like the 18kw to do it comfortably in the winter at minimum.

Pic related is for the smaller ones. What kind of breaker do you have for your current water heater? Because 8kW still requires 8ga wiring and a 40kW double pole breaker, which is larger than a lot of tank heater will have (25A-30A DP) and I doubt they ran overkill wiring for a 25A circuit that would be “plug and play” like clueless anon was trying to say.

These GPM ratings are assuming a 35F degree increase in water temp I think. So get ready for cold showers in the winter if you go too small.

>> No.2685471
File: 208 KB, 828x936, 3F89A60C-5939-4605-8D98-123963BA827D.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685471

>>2685458
>>2685469
13kW can be run off a 60A DP breaker, but I guarantee you would need to run new wiring, and at that rate if you’re pulling new wires, you might as well install a second breaker and go 18kW+ so you can shower comfortably while the dishwasher is on.

>> No.2685494

>>2685469
I believe it's a 30A DP, but I can't confirm since I'm at work at the moment and won't be home until after 9PM.

>> No.2685505
File: 246 KB, 960x1280, 3B6372E7-241D-409E-8C1B-12534A220850.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685505

>>2685494
Nah that sounds about right. I have a 25A or 30A DP on mine. I think standard 40-60gal tank heaters are ~4500w IIRC from repairing the last one. And from installing one on this house and working on that last one, there’s no fucking way there’s 6ga wire running to either of those standard tank heaters.

Wish I could tell ya to just plug and play like clueless anon, that’s what I was hoping for about a year ago because I had to get a low boy chubby heater in a cramped spot and tankless would be so smooth, but then I saw what kind of energy they pull, and I’m in the darkest red penis tip of Florida on that map, so I passed. Maybe when this tank one dies I’ll go tankless because I could probably do 18kW with how warm my tap water is, but I didn’t have time to fuck around with the breaker panel since I wanted to replace that thing as quick as possible in the middle of moving.

>> No.2685657
File: 289 KB, 481x842, bulb.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685657

so what's actually the deal with LED bulbs replacing incandescents? I've heard everything from them fucking with our circadian rhythms due to imperceptible flashing to them making us more susceptible to demonic possession (I uh, hang out in some weird places).

is there any real cause for concern/substantiated health effects? or is it just schizoboomer fearmongering?

>> No.2685686

>>2684758
>the second breaker might be for your kitchen appliances
Turns out the fridge is on its own entire breaker. Thanks anon, I never checked the fridge when the power went out, I just assumed the whole kitchen went down.
Gonna plug more of the high power draw stuff into that circuit and I think that’ll stop the flickering.
I really appreciate it.

>> No.2685692

>>2685657
Meh. Tradeoffs.

Less cost to run.
Probably less heat.
Narrower spectrum of radiation -- probably not a good thing; we don't get enough infrared as it is (because we're inside all the time, away from sunshine), and the move away from incandescents gives us even less still.

I went to a talk some years ago at an electrical industry event where a guy was talking about how the mass-adoption of LED drivers to replace fluorescent ballasts was somehow causing problems in large buildings. Something about electrical resonance giving high... something. Spikes in voltage, or some kind of bounce-back current... i don't know. It was over my head, but it sounded troubling. He was suggesting that you could put some kind of hardware in-line with your lighting circuits or something to "tune" the current somehow to prevent these problems -- or something like that.

>> No.2685695
File: 184 KB, 640x480, shedleg.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685695

how can I non-permanently secure the posts holding up a lean-to addition to my shed? I recently moved my shed to a concrete pad and it is unsecured. I want to add an open lean-to on one side. how can I make sure the posts won't move around without a post base?

>> No.2685698
File: 170 KB, 1365x768, 1E4D84B8-B7A0-48D8-AEA2-BC8E2B850C07.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685698

>>2685695
Most secure method requiring the least amount of effort is to use a dowel oc. 1” dowel, 2” down, 2” up.
Less secure least effort is PL premium that shit is the shit.

>> No.2685735
File: 25 KB, 480x263, bathexhaust-pnnl4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685735

recently installed a new bathroom fan. I cleared the insulation (blown-in) in the area to complete the install, do I just throw it back on top? I looked it up and people recommend shrouding it instead.

>> No.2685738

>>2685657
No, it's all gibberish. Flickering is just low quality driver circuits and has no impact, people would've gone blind from CRTs decades ago if it did.

The main problem with LEDs is they're more expensive and built extremely poorly on purpose. I sadly had a few LEDs in my kitchen fail this year, they lasted about 7 years. The bulbs I replaced them with are worse in every way, and are very unlikely to last 2 years. LED tech should've meant that replacing bulbs became a thing of the past, but the lightbulb consortium aren't about to lose out on billions of dollars a year by producing high quality products. On the plus side, at least they consume less electricity. One thing I do dread is when the comfy orange sodium street lighting outside my house eventually gets replaced by the soulless LED shit.

>> No.2685740
File: 105 KB, 939x469, 1695362068369520.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685740

Can anyone tell me why they use a heat exchanger before the heat pump? Is it more efficient?

Made a thread but it's already at page 7 (>>2685144)

>> No.2685741

>>2685738
Get the Phillips long-life bulbs (descendents of the Dubai bulbs), see big clive for more

>> No.2685746

>>2685741
You pay 3-5x more for a bulb that might last twice as long on paper. It makes no fucking sense. They don't produce anything anywhere close to a Dubai bulb outside of Dubai, because why would they? They're only made there because of government mandates, it's that or they can't sell any bulbs.

>> No.2685756
File: 718 KB, 1920x1440, IMG_20230923_130536.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685756

How can I cut a circle through this 2" board
I tried using Holesaws but my drill kept getting stuck. Do I need a Jigsaw?

>> No.2685779

>>2685746
then buy high-lumen bulbs and swap the resistor for a lower current

>> No.2685782

>>2683177
Not sure how your shite currency relates to the us dollar but off of first glance thats not a bad buy. Is the previous owners named etched in there somewhere? I feel like when i buy used mitutoyo some ass scratched his name front and center.

>> No.2685783

>>2685756
Bummer, looks like a pain in the ass. Not a bad idea doing the small holes. Id do jigsaw or maybe even a coping saw with s rough blade if you need to get around those posts. If you can remove teh, and need it to be a good looking hole id make a template and use a flush trim router bit hogging most of that stuff out any way you seem fit.

>> No.2685794

>>2685756
You can try the hole saw from both sides. You already have the pilot hole to keep it centered, so come in through the top 50%-60% of the way, then come through the bottom for the extra 40%-50%

>> No.2685807

>>2685756
Use a proper drill, not the 10 dollar battery powered special with shit torque. If you don't have an old one lying around, the next easiest thing would be to just get a coping saw blade in there, or drill a couple of small holes and get a hacksaw through.

>> No.2685836

Do I need to tip the guys that deliver and build my furniture

>> No.2685863

>>2685836
I always tip anybody who comes to my house and does work. Or order food for em if they’re working a long day. But I’ve also worked for tips and I’m not of the Hebrew faith.

I don’t know if they get tipped by most people though. Like when I tip the Comcast guy or whoever, sometimes they seem more surprised than the average pizza delivery driver.

>> No.2685877

I want to put vinegar in a spray bottle. The only spray bottle I had that was near empty was chlorox. After pouring it out, how many times do I have to rinse out the bottle so I don't gas myself when I put in vinegar? I already did it ~10 times and the bottle still smells like bleach.

>> No.2685887
File: 61 KB, 1024x768, rustycrusty.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2685887

how easy would it be to clean these swivel sockets with wd-40/vinegar and some scotch brite? are they too far gone?

>> No.2685932

>>2685887
Too far gone for what? They look entirely functional as-is. Is there aome reason why you need them to be pretty?

>> No.2686009
File: 1.94 MB, 2448x1836, PXL_20230923_164202668.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686009

Can I repair this foundation or am I better off knocking it down and stariting over?

>> No.2686013

>>2685932
just want them to last a long time if i put in the effort to restore them that's all

>> No.2686036
File: 17 KB, 474x355, th-387942194.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686036

>>2685877
>After pouring it out, how many times do I have to rinse out the bottle so I don't gas myself when I put in vinegar?
Flush out the spray system a few times by spraying it with just water in the bottle. I don't think dillute levels are going to do any harm. People piss (ammonia) into bleached toilet water all the time.
My nose was surgically sealed and I accidentally mixed gallons of bleach, lye and vinegar trying unsuccessfully to unclog my kitchen sink with all the windows shut/no airflow and it took about 30 mins of hovering over the brew before I noticed anything and opened a window. /blog

>> No.2686042

I have a mug that I really want to use daily, however it has a finish that feels rough and makes me shiver every time I touch it, like nails on a chalkboard. I think it's called a matte finish.
How can I apply a glossy finish so that it's smooth and comfortable to hold so I can use this mug every day and love it?

>> No.2686045

>>2686013
Those don’t look bad at all. Maybe a tiny bit of pitting but that won’t hurt the function. You just gotta figure out a good coating once you’re done cleaning them so the rust doesn’t show up again in 2 weeks. Not sure what the process is for home DIY black oxide coating or maybe the way they blue gun barrels and parts.

>> No.2686112

>>2686013
soak in Evapo-Rust
use a Scotch-Brite pad
repeat until rust-free
If you want to >>2686045 >black oxide
then use Birchwood-Casey Super Blue
clean and dry using heat
finish coat with Birchwood-Casey Barricade or Fluid Film

For long term storage keep a sheet of VCI paper in their container.

>> No.2686133

>>2685887
Citric acid for rust removal, followed by some sort of thin oil for rust-proofing. Gotta add the oil quickly, otherwise it will quickly rust.

>> No.2686204

>>2681223
Are you sure this outlet isn't switched? Also, fluke make a good tracer. I use it for a lot of my remodel jobs.

>> No.2686266

>>2685782
He wrote his name in pen on the case, but i blacked it out and drew my cute foxgirl OC on there instead

>> No.2686267

I wanted to use some water with food coloring in a jar(with lid) as decor. Would the water turn visibly bad fast?

>> No.2686318

My car's battery is starting to go bad .it struggles to start the car sometimes. I checked it with a multimeter while i'm starting the car and the voltage goes down to 8 volts . so I'm gonna buy a new battery tomorrow.
will the old battery be o.k for some simple DC solar stuff if I buy a cheap battery controller and panel? . like a small fish pond pump or filter

>> No.2686330

I changed out the taps to my washing machine and now have water hammer on my cold water line.

Unfortunately my pipe work runs up into the ceiling so I’m not sure draining the line will force out the air.

Closing the tap halfway doesn’t help. I can’t change back the tap (even if that would help) as the new taps are low profile and allow stacking a drier on top.

Does anyone have experience with something similar?

>> No.2686404

Im trying to charge a laptop battery pack, its almost flat 6 cells only give 6.5v.

When i try to charge the 6 cells at the same time with a bench PSU it takes 0A, i assime this means the cells are dead and will no longer take charge at all?

>> No.2686555

>>2686318
core charge?

>> No.2686557 [DELETED] 

>>2686330
>I changed out the taps to my washing machine and now have water hammer
possibly a loose washer inside the tap

>> No.2686559

>>2686404
>charge a laptop battery pack,
some laptop batteries' internal BMS won't allow charging without some jumpering of the terminals.
(more than just + and - connections)

>> No.2686582
File: 638 KB, 4032x3016, IMG_20230924_144723.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686582

Best way to hide stuff inside mattress? , was thinking on opening a hole put the stuff inside a bag and pushing it over to the other extreme of the mattress and have some sort of wire to fish for the bag when needed

>> No.2686585

>>2686559
Im trying to charge the cells directly instead through the charging port.

>> No.2686593

>>2686582
Thieves always check beds. Find a better spot.

>> No.2686606
File: 1.92 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_7972.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686606

Can someone help me fix this? I literally have zero comprehension to fixing shit like this but it doesn’t seem like it would be too complicated. It’s a AA battery compartment for the 1989 electronic talking battleship

>> No.2686608
File: 2.00 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_7973.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686608

>>2686606
Another pic

>> No.2686614

>>2686585
>>2686559
Ok i found out why, one 18650 batteries is 0v and refuses to take any charge.

>> No.2686615
File: 350 KB, 894x838, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686615

>>2686606
Black goes in the spring, red goes in the dot.
Get yourself a wire stripper.

They are like 10 cents each.

>> No.2686616

>>2686606
Yeah, it's not too complex. The batteries will be arranged so that they're connected in series, so negative to positive. If you follow the traces you'll see 2 spots on the compartment that don't line up, and that's where you reattach the leads, red for positive, black for negative.

If that sounds too much, you can buy those 4 AA holders with the wires pre-attached for like a dollar or two, or pull one out of any other random piece of shit you have lying around. Then just join red to red and black to black.

>> No.2686619

>>2686608
You need a soldering iron and solder to either reconnect the cables or buy replacement holder to solder it into the board, this holder is just connecting the batteries in series so its stacking the 4 AA on top of each other 'electrically' , just do the first option, if know someone with the tools ask him to do it for you

>> No.2686636

>>2686593
I live with old people, i just dont want them to find my pocket pussy, yeah i'm pathetic, i don't give a shit

>> No.2686660

>>2686615
>>2686616

Thanks a lot, yall. I got it to work. Saved me some time and money. Have a good one!

>> No.2686704

any sparkies here? I have an old style fuse box in my apartment with edison base style screw fuses. Is it possible for these fuses to emit a spark, sort of like how sometimes you'll plug something in and see a small spark? I was unscrewing one of the fuses and I saw a spark and heard a little crackle. Haven't seen it happen before.

The fuse is for a water heater. The fuse box has two fuses that go in for a water heater. The heater has a problem where it seems to keep running all the time, so I leave the fuses out until I need it (landlord won't fix).

>> No.2686708
File: 334 KB, 960x1280, 59051984-450B-4AE8-9C2A-57597C4C5ABA.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686708

>>2686704
I mean that’s the same thing that happens when you screw in a lightbulb, it’s going to arc.

I’m just an armchair sparkie but that sounds normal if you still have shit on that circuit which is still on.

Also fwiw, thermostats for electric hot water heaters are cheap and easy to install if you’re sick of dealing with the fuses. Install that shit and withold the $30 from the rent. I think I paid ~$35 for upper and lower t-stats and heating elements at Lowe’s less than 2 years ago. If the current heater doesn’t shut off, you risk the pressure valve pouring hot water all over the place.

>> No.2686715

>>2686708
>same thing that happens when you screw in a lightbulb, it’s going to arc
yeah im hoping it was just that

>thermostats for electric hot water heaters are cheap and easy to install if you’re sick of dealing with the fuses
Thanks but I don't feel comfortable with doing that kind of work at all. Plus if the thermostat is busted, its really up to the LL to fix it. I'm in a bad spot because its either the water heater or maybe some kind of leak on the hot water side in my apt but electrician and maintenance guy were just all "idunno", the electrician opened up the tank and "cleaned" it but of course it didn't change anything. And he billed the LL a lot of money so the LL doesnt wanna deal with it any more. The electrician told me I could open up the heater and mess with the thermostat heating (lower the temperature setting), but he was so non-chalant about it (didn't explain anything) that I just pussied out.

just gonna get a gym membership for hot showers i think

>> No.2686808

>>2686715
Wow, it’s amazing how fast people give up.

Also changing the temp on the thermostat is nothing more than turning a small knob. There is a chance the last tenant had it turned up super high because they liked forever hot showers.

>> No.2686811

>>2686009
bump

>> No.2686836
File: 3.60 MB, 4624x3472, IMG_20230925_134235.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686836

Had a small water leak from my boiler, water dripped down through the ceiling/wall culminating in this damp patch where it's dripping on the floor now. I fixed the leak, but what do I do about the ceiling?

>> No.2686871

>>2686836
Wait a couple of weeks for it to dry.
If the material between the crack and the wall is loose, remove it and fill with drywall mud.
If it's still solid, fill the crack with latex caulk or tape and mud it.
Paint with stain sealer.
Paint to match once the sealer is dry.

>> No.2686885
File: 333 KB, 1091x1280, 79B9B394-C3B7-4739-AF5A-B5C8D1132BE8.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686885

The metal piece that the battery attached to snapped off. Is this just a simple welding job or will it snap again under the tension of the battery?

>> No.2686893
File: 2.17 MB, 4608x2176, IMG_20230923_185743.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686893

1/2
How do I fix this?
1. Cut both connectors off and find a new one in the junkyard, use an ungodly amount of butt end crimp/heat shrink connectors
2. Depin and repin
3. A secret third thing I haven't thought of yet.

If it's #2, how do I know what terminals I would need to buy?

>> No.2686895
File: 40 KB, 1920x1776, connector.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686895

>>2686893
2/2

>> No.2686908

Is there any reason, other than cost, to NOT replace an outlet with a GFCI?

>> No.2686932

>>2686893
Can you just clean it and polish up the corrision?
Or just replace the pins that aren't making a good connection?

>> No.2686936

>>2686908
If the outlet is already protected by a different GFCI outlet on the circuit, then it can cause problems if you put another GFCI "downstream" on the same circuit.
I doubt that's important for your situation, but it is a valid reason to NOT replace a standard outlet with a GFCI outlet.

>> No.2686937

>>2686908
Some appliances are prone to tripping GFCIs due to high initial load. In general, I think the safest setup is just having the vast majority of circuits in your house on a single GFCI rather than having one for every socket or having partial support for some sockets but not others. It can occasionally be a pain in the ass though, if I work on circuits that are turned off but still connected to the GFCI and I accidentally ground neutral or live it trips the GFCI to the rest of the house.

>> No.2686955

>>2686932
It looks like there are pins missing. There is not enough metal left in the corroded pin to be salvageable.

>> No.2686998
File: 203 KB, 1280x720, a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2686998

This damn moped has been given away up and down the block and nobody can fix it, now it's my buddies turn and I'm trying to help him. Honda Aero 50 won't idle/stay running without touching the throttle unless I choke the air intake with my hand. The carb adjustments can only be done with air filter box removed. Trying to figure if bad carb or a vacuum leak.

>> No.2687009
File: 58 KB, 800x732, makerbeam-10x10mm.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687009

Does this diagram not fully show all measurements? Or am I just stupid?

This is a 10mm x 10mm aluminum extrusion profile, but I can't figure out the angle/width of the inner slot.

>> No.2687012
File: 20 KB, 322x403, makerbeam-10x10mm2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687012

>>2687009
Here's another diagram of the same part. What the fuck is that inner angle?

>> No.2687025

>>2687012
Correct, it doesn't show.
If they are of a uniform thickness you can figure out what they are, but if the diagram is accurate it looks like they taper a bit as they extend from the center.
Perhaps it's something they can't do to a very high tolerance, so they don't even pretend to know how thick that part is.

How critical is the measurement?

>> No.2687031

>>2687012
>>2687009
How close do you need it to be? I’m trying to think if there’s some trig you can do. It looks like about a 100deg angle and the widest part of the slot is like 5.3mm?

>> No.2687045

>>2687025
>>2687025
I'm just trying to recreate the drawing to create a full 3D assembly. It's not really critical for me at the moment, but I'd eventually need to 3d print some parts that slot into those sections.

They definitely have some tolerance though, as they also produce some T-slot nuts that specifically go into these slots.

>> No.2687048
File: 31 KB, 789x322, makerbeam-10x10mm-tslot-nuts.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687048

>>2687025
>>2687031
Oh, actually I just found a diagram for their t-nuts. I can probably use the measurements as a fairly close approximation.

5.6mm appears to be the size.

>> No.2687049

>>2687045
>I'm just trying to recreate the drawing to create a full 3D assembly
Print onto transparency sheet, rotoscope it. Or find some app that'll do overlay without focus

>> No.2687050

Do you have any reason to believe that extrusion isn't some standard? 3d printers are made up of a gamut of addons for extruded aluminun

>> No.2687052

>>2687050
Are there actually any standards for these extrusions?

I know from experience that one company's 2020 extrusions are different from others.

In any case, these are called "Makerbeam", which are the only 10mm x 10mm extrusions I could find. As far as I know, they are only by one company.

>> No.2687084

>>2687052
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=makerbeam&page=1&type=things&sort=relevant

>> No.2687085

10mm makerbeam 3d model
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1102

>> No.2687086

>>2687048
>5.6mm appears to be the size.
That measurement has to be small for the T-Nut to fit, since there's a radius in the corner.

The T-nut diagram shows the sides come out at a 45 degree angle. Which they don't in the extrusion diagram, but if you assume it's 45 degrees than the other diagram has all the measurements you need.

>> No.2687087

Messing with models is stupid easy. Take a mechanical mount, like a picatinny rail, take a dildo model, overlay the two, export. bam. rail mounted dildo

>> No.2687093
File: 38 KB, 438x432, makerbeam-wtf.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687093

>>2687085
> Oh, huh. This is the official model from makerbeam itself. I guess I could use this to-
> wait wtf

>> No.2687119
File: 3.77 MB, 4032x3024, 20230925_181645.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687119

>>2681153
ALL MIGHTY AND KNOWLEDGEABLE DENIZENS HERE...

...what kind of lightbulb is this?

Came from an illuminated wall clock if that helps.

>> No.2687134

>>2687119
A circular fluorescent tube.

>> No.2687135

is there a film I can put on pictures so that phones can’t scan them? Our baby is supposed to be here in a few weeks, I want to send baby pictures to the old folks but we have Facebook parents so I’m trying to figure out how they can have a picture of the grandbaby, without nuking young anonymity. Best solution I’ve come up with is going innawoods and never talking to them again but that seems unreasonable.

>> No.2687148

>>2687135
No. The best you can do is have a polarizing filter on photos that might stop pictures from being taken at certain angles. Unfortunately this is a social problem, not a technical one.

1. You need to tell them they cannot post pictures of your baby online under any circumstances.
2. Make sure they know this is a joint decision between both you and your partner and not just one of you.
3. If they don't agree OR you don't trust them to follow these rules, then don't let them take pictures of your child and don't send them photos.
4. If you're an absolute spineless moron and let them do so anyways, Facebook has a form to do takedowns of children under 13.

>> No.2687162

>>2687148
I kinda figured, but boy would it be easier if it was a technical problem. Honestly, with them on the other end of the country it’s probably just easier to only allow sometimes visits and never share photos. Thank you anon, seeing someone else spell it out makes me feel way less crazy.

>> No.2687165

>>2687093
no refunds

>> No.2687188

>>2686808
>Wow, it’s amazing how fast people give up.
>Also changing the temp on the thermostat is nothing more than turning a small knob
the guy wouldnt even bother explaining how to turn anything off. he said open it up, pull out all the insulation and tweak the thermostat but oh dont touch the live leads. I don't want to play operator with that stuff. Yeah I'm a pussy, but if I'm going to mess around with that shit I want to do it safely.

>> No.2687209

>>2686885
might be able to braze it back in place, hopefully the heat will anneal it

>> No.2687261
File: 396 KB, 2040x1536, IMG_20230926_144649763.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687261

I've been trying to make this wooden seat with some plans I got. The legs are supposed to be on angles. The thing is I'm using hand tools and am not much experienced and, well, you can see the angles are hardly parallel and I can already see this isn't going to work (ignoring the fact that I've managed to attach two of the legs on the wrong side, too).

What can I do to fix it/do it properly?
How did people cut things so straight without power tools, anyway? Just lots of practice?

>> No.2687263
File: 717 KB, 1536x2040, chair.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687263

>>2687261
Let's see if that's the right way up this time

>> No.2687264

>>2687263
>>2687261
Oh wait I'm a retard I have the foremost one upside down.
The angles are still off, but not nearly as bad. It might work I'm not sure.
I did attach the support upside down though lol

>> No.2687268

>>2687264
If the pieces are meant to be the same, why didn't you just clamp (or screw if you know you're drilling holes anyway) them together and then cut them together? Both legs might be a little off, but at least they'll be off by the same amount.

>> No.2687298

>>2687268
You're right, that would have probably worked better (though I imagine they still would have been a bit different since I don't cut very straight).
Is there any easy way to take a bit more off, like with a sander or something?

>> No.2687303

>>2687298
The key to cutting well is to mark your pieces fully before hand and keep your arm straight through the cut, it's easy to see how close you are if you're cutting next to the line. It also depends on the type of saw, it's much easier to wander with a hack saw for example. Personally, I'd just use a hand file to get the pieces back in alignment with each other, or clamp them together and use the shorter piece as a guide for cutting into the other if there's a lot of material. For faster removal you could use a rasp.

>> No.2687370
File: 199 KB, 960x1280, F418BEAF-66E7-49AF-8D63-82AD514271F2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687370

>>2687188
It looks just like this. There’s probably one on top and one on bottom. Pull the fuses it you want the live wires to turn into not-live wires.

>> No.2687413

>be residential draftsman
>42k CAD salary
>2 years in Feb, no raises so far

Would a $3 raise be too much to ask for? For context its been a slow year because interest rates are fucked, but we are optimistic for this year. We also recently had to lay off someone in my department, so I could probably leverage the fact I had to pick up my co-worker's projects.

>> No.2687487

I'm not a regular on /diy/ so I apologize in advance.
Are there any solid forums or resources that any of you would recommend for camper van conversions or off-grid vehicle modifying?
I know living by the river is a bit of an overplayed meme, but I'm mostly just looking for a way to comfortably roadtrip or hit up state/national parks when I vacation.
I don't necessarily need full sustainability, but I do want to add ample QOL features that I may not have yet planned for.

Everywhere I look I find people trying to sell vanlife as a aesthetic, show off amazon trinkets with affiliate links, or just talk about the one thing they wish they added.
Hours of videos and blogs that MAYBE give something I can add to the design is just awful. I'd rather be able to talk with people who have built dozens and experimented for years rather than the college grad who built one with help and starts complaining after the first trip.

>> No.2687537

>>2687487
Honestly, what do you really need in a van? You don't need a toilet, just shit in the woods. The only useful upgrade you can do is put solar panels on the roof, which will instantly mark you to law enforcement as a potential vagrant who needs to spend a night in the cells. A basic mattress, some ventilation so the whole thing doesn't fill with mold after you sleep in it for a week, that's about it.

>> No.2687542
File: 327 KB, 1080x1195, Screenshot_20230926_124222_Google.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687542

Can someone explain to me why devices on a L1 or L2 bus share wire numbers?

Shouldnt you be able to differentiate between lines? If you have multiple switches/buttons with power from the bus, how are you supposed to troubleshoot? Most drawings have the return wire labeled, why not the outgoing L1?

In pic related, shouldnt each button have a specific number on its left side?

>> No.2687544

>>2687413
If you don't ask you don't get man. Just be prepared in being able to justify it. Like you mentioned taking on workload of another employee who's gone. Also compare your position to other companies in the area to see what their offering. And you don't have to take no for an answer either, can leverage in more PTO or some other perk if they won't budge on a rate increase. Also you say you've been there 2 years, have they even scheduled an annual review for you? That would ring alarm bells to me.

>> No.2687545

>>2686704
>The heater has a problem where it seems to keep running all the time
Mine had two thermostats, so when I only adjusted one to raise the temp, it basically never shutoff, would boil and trigger the pressure safety vent. Once I adjusted both then it was fine.

>> No.2687549

>>2687537
I'm not trying to be an urban squatter, so I don't care how flashy the van looks. I'm just wanting something in between a druggie's ex-work van and an RV.

Solar, convertible bed, insulation, fridge, cooking, etc. the whole 9 yards.
I'm primarily a mountain rat, so something that can get me through a boarding season at the slopes comfortably. I've also got the wife who wants to come along, so adding as many creature comforts as possible for just relaxing is the goal.

>> No.2687617
File: 3.45 MB, 3024x4032, PXL_20230926_210116425.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687617

What's the best way to get rid of the final bit of metal holding this screw head to it's shaft using only common hand tools? I did most of the damage trying to reslot the stripped head using a borrowed Dremel, but got interrupted and now don't have access to it anymore

>> No.2687627
File: 152 KB, 1024x1024, CA-6_1024x1024-406950564.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687627

>>2687617
Center punch, drill slow with lots of oil. If you used a dremel you might have already tempered it tho.
If it's tempered then you need like a carbide drill bit and maybe just scrape at it.
Consider putting a circle of tape around it for protection in the meantime?

>> No.2687643

>>2687617
Just file it down until it's thin enough that pulling apart the case breaks whatever is left off.

>> No.2687708

could you cause a properly shaped piece of metal with temperature dependent capacitors and inductors grounded to the case inside of a microwave to allow that piece of metal to heat up to a specific temp and then ground out the rest of the energy and stop heating up?

>> No.2687784
File: 282 KB, 2000x2000, 71ZTriOOPaS[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2687784

What material/type of fabric is best at wicking moisture so that it dries the fastest?
My fridge's water dispenser runs a half second longer than it's pressed so it always splashes on the little shelf below it because of other people in the house not bothering to hold their cup there a little longer.
So there's basically always a puddle under the water dispenser.
I tried placing a diatomite coaster but it's no where close to as good as advertised and it becomes waterlogged.

>> No.2687808

>>2687784
Absorbing moisture quickly and making it evaporate quickly are two different tasks. To make it evaporate quickly you need the water to be in close proximity with as high a surface area of air as possible. That kinda necessitates particularly large gaps between fibres such that air can flow through the solid, which naturally makes the whole thing bad at absorbing. Think one of those shower mats made of rubber rods you find in a swimming pool changing room, but on a somewhat smaller scale.

Personally I'd 3D print an insert to fit snugly on the shelf, where you could leave it to evaporate by itself. Maybe route that water to a drain or larger evaporation tray, or put an ultrasonic humidifier transducer in it.

>> No.2687810

>>2687784
>>2687808
Actually I'd look into modifying the water pump or pump controller so either it stops more quickly or dumps the water somewhere else before it gets to the tap.

>> No.2687812

>>2687708
no. try microwaving an egg in water to hardboil it and see what happens.

>> No.2687817

>>2687708
>inside of a microwave to allow that piece of metal to heat up
microwaves don't heat metal

>> No.2687819

>>2687134
I meant in particular, it was in a clock that belonged to a dead relative.

The missus wanted to replace it. And it didn't seem to have any markings or model identification

>> No.2687860

Any tips for preventing plaster from becoming porous after applying it to fix walls in holes? Too much water or too little, doesn't seem to make much difference.

>> No.2687965

Just need to know what a thing is called so i know what I'm looking for at Hobby Lobby/Lowe's/wherever.
Have a laundry basket, want to snip out some dividers so that I can keep whites/blacks/colors separate. Just need some kind of plastic material that's stiff enough to not collapse from the laundry, and that I can snip with a box cutter.

>> No.2688081

i'm doing a quick cheap repaint of my car soon and I want to know which grit of sandpaper is right for light prep sanding, not going all the way down to primer or metal, just through damaged clear coat and into the existing base/color coat

some panels are getting color changed and some arent, the base coat is mostly in good shape except on the lower halves of the doors cause whoever painted it before I owned it fucked that up

so it's mainly a color change but also some paint correction in that specific region

200-300, 300-400, or 400-600?
will be using a decent orbital sander

>> No.2688127

>>2688081
there's no magic grit that will just decide to stop sanding when you hit the base coat.
use a high grit and use your eyes to see if you're beginning to cut into the base color coat it's going to take forever, you can use lower grit but your margin for error is going to be much smaller.

>> No.2688146
File: 301 KB, 1280x960, C3C15AF7-0178-4752-A3B2-DAA414128B0F.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2688146

>>2688081
This >>2688127

I would get a little assorted pack if you can. 120-150 will remove material pretty quick, 60-80 even faster, 400+ will be pretty smooth if you want to put a few hours into every general area. Also if it’s thin on corners or certain areas, maybe you want to do 120-220 on big areas and then take it easy with 300+ in the tight spots.

Never a bad idea to have random orbital sander pads around.

Speaking of which, any of you fags use this Diablo SandNet stuff? I snagged a big assorted pack for like $20, used them on the last couple projects and I can’t make up my mind. So far, I guess they do last a little bit longer than regular discs, especially compared to cheap discs like HF’s Warrior, I had some of those and the low grits peeled off so fast.

>> No.2688179

>>2688146
exactly what i don't want is to put hours into each panel, cause this is just a beater that needs a color change - doing a redneck roller job on a currently black and white CVPI

it was originally silver but at some point the original gov fleet owner decided they wanted it to look like a cop car, and the dopes who sprayed it really messed up the doors, almost like they used rattle cans on the lower half and the paint ran down in little streams; the rest of the paint is fine, just needs to be color-changed

quick and cheap is the goal

>> No.2688186

>>2688146
i've seen a few people testing this on youtube and iirc they're slightly lower tier than cubitron in material removed over time but they supposedly last a fucking long time since you can just run it under water to clean out the cavities inbetween grit.

>> No.2688205

>>2688186
Yeah I used like a 220 on a couple different jobs and it kept going, although they get a little funky around the edges. But I definitely would’ve run through 2-3 cheap 220 discs or maybe 1.5-2x 3M discs. I got that big assortment for $19.97 or whatever and I’ll be set for a couple years of projects.

>>2688179
If you don’t give a shit, then go somewhere like 120-200 to get through the old crap and be careful. The real high grit and wet sanding is for prep on nice paint jobs, but you just need your rattle can job to stick.

>> No.2688206

This seems super simple and I am pretty sure I know the answer, but....

I am making an infinity mirror, the instructions say to use a mirror at the back and have a piece of glass/transparent plastic at the front with one way reflective film on the back of it. So you look through the reflective film at the mirror which reflects the mirror instead of your mug. My question is, can I just use reflective film on the front of the back panel in place of the mirror? My brain is telling me there is no difference besides perhaps a small loss in how reflective the back mirror is.

>> No.2688253

>>2688206
>It's been explained to me how to do it but I'm an edgelord and want to do it my way so I'm looking for someone to agree with me and tell me my way is ok too.

Great idea. who needs actual mirrors. Go for it.

>> No.2688254

Sup /diy/?
I just installed a new water heater, but the elements won't turn on. I'm getting 120V from each lead to ground, but nothing across any other connection. The breaker isn't tripping and the tank itself isn't electrified so it's not a ground short. Is it just defective?

>> No.2688287

>>2688254
Wait, you get nothing between L1 and L2? Like a solid 0V and not random jumping numbers?

>> No.2688290

>>2688287
I get like 7-8V for an instant, but then it goes back to zero

>> No.2688294

>>2688290
Sounds like L1 and L2 on the same phase. Did you mess with the breaker? Or run the wiring yourself?

Check the breaker for the water heater. Each one should have 120 to ground or N, and you should get 220V- 240V between them

>> No.2688301

How hard is it to replace burnt carpet and flame retardant/insulation below it? Firefighters said there's no structural damage, just carpet damage, so it should just need replaced carpet, but I have no idea how to go about it.

>> No.2688305

>>2688294
I did nothing with the wiring but disconnect the old water heater and connect the new one using the same 240V power line, which I tested before installation.

>> No.2688406

>>2688254
>I'm getting 120V from each lead to ground,

Only one leg is 'hot'. The other is reading 120v through the heating element.
Flip the breaker OFF then back ON.

>> No.2688411
File: 120 KB, 1500x976, detail-of-paint-peeling-of-a-brick-wall-976111072-4557ff5f0d3b4c92a0c889515661b6c7.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2688411

my large amount of my garage wall is like this (concrete block), what can be done before painting again? I've scraped a lot of it but then I come back the next day and more just keeps peeling back, even though it was tough to remove paint from those areas the day prior

>> No.2688415

>>2688301
buy a rug

>> No.2688424

>>2688415
Well if I'm going for option 2 how can I cut and run on my landlord without him being able to go to the courts or anything?

>> No.2688426

>>2688424
how big of an area is it? a little brown spray paint after you clean and move out and maybe it'll go overlooked

>> No.2688427

>>2688426
It was already pretty bad before, but the firefighters went ahead and ripped out parts, especially where the insulation was damaged.
This is mostly just the part where there was actual serious damage that burned through the carpet and insulation, there are black marks everywhere with pretty singed carpet. It might be able to be overlooked with some spray paint but not if they feel it at all.

>> No.2688428
File: 608 KB, 1205x1457, 20230927_184246.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2688428

>>2688427
Forgot pic.

>> No.2688429

>>2688424
just tell your landlord and get your insurance to cover the bill with his preferred carpet man. an amateur carpet patch will be easily visible, because carpets change colour over time.

>>2688428
actually that looks like shit even where it's not burnt, call it a feature floor and be done with it

>> No.2688431

>>2688429
>implying I have renter's insurance.
Honestly he said and I'm pretty sure he was gonna replace the carpet anyways I just don't know how much it's going to cost to get the carpet fixed.

>> No.2688433

>>2688429
Also I really only need it to look good for about a month or so. I'm supposed to be moving out by November 1st. Would an amateur job be visible by then?

>> No.2688436

>>2688433
I see no reason why your legal culpability will suddenly be gone once you've moved out. I'm surprised he didn't find out that the firemen were there.

>> No.2688437

>>2688436
He's not living in the state right now, though the fire alarms went off and considering how "smart" the rest of the house is I'm surprised his phone didn't call him.

Either way, I really can't deal with this stress right now, I just wanna find out if there's a way to avoid paying $3,000 to have the room recarpeted.

>> No.2688468
File: 519 KB, 1280x720, longboardwheelbearinggapmeasurement.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2688468

Is there a good way to accurately measure longboard wheel bearing gaps without cutting them or taking multiple measurements or spending a lot of money? Caliper gauges are not accurate enough and interchangeable anvil micrometers are too expensive. Disc brake micrometers?

>> No.2688470

>>2688468
*outside caliper gauges

>> No.2688506

>>2688468
Get a piece of something flat, cut a hole in it big enough to fit the little stick end that slides out of your caliper through, rest it on the face of the tire and then measure perpendicular through to the ledge between the bearings. Do the same thing on the other side, and then all you need to do is find out how thick the wheel is plus 2x the thickness of the flat thing.

I assume you're fitting spacers? You don't really need very good precision for that, as long as the spacer covers the gap and the bearings are mostly seated on both sides, it should work just as well. Pretty sure the gaps are standard, if you're worried about it you could try just fitting one bearing, putting the spacer on top of it, and feel if its protruding into the area for the second bearing.

>> No.2688515
File: 1.43 MB, 4032x2268, 1695896967146.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2688515

Hello /diy/. Newfag here
I was disassembling this old drum machine I bought from ebay, because I found bunch of dust inside. Turns out the 'sponge' like thing in picrel, between the two PCBs, has turn brittle and cause dust in the machine. I tried searching for a replacement, but since I don't know its name, I can't replace it. What do I do?

>> No.2688517

>>2688515
Any kind of single sided stick down foam will probably do the same job. It's hard to even tell what the felt is there for, I guess just insulation so whatever board is inside doesn't touch the shield?

>> No.2688520

>>2688517
Yeah, there's another board at the bottom. I assume that the felt is acting as a insulation? Thank you for your response

>> No.2688523

>>2688520
Yeah, I see this kind of design on old 80s stuff. I guess it was easier than building in some stand-offs to the case? Anything like foam tape with a bit of thickness, maybe 2-3mm or so will work. If you want a quick bodge you could scrape off all the dust and it'll probably work just riding on what's left of the sticky layer as an insulator, but over time I guess it could wear a hole in it and short circuit.

>> No.2688526

>>2688523
Right. This machine is quite cheap, so it probably has a poor build quality. If the insulation wears off, then I might have to buy a new material for insulation.

>> No.2688573
File: 743 KB, 1080x2400, Screenshot_2023-09-25-22-55-15-531_com.facebook.katana.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2688573

Does anyone have more information on those Invicta Delta saws? I'm looking to buy this one but didn't find anything useful, only for the bigger 3phase models. It looks like an older version of the "Unisaw" type, but didn't find anything specific, also, the table is not that big to be a unisaw. I have more pictures if necessary.

>> No.2688649
File: 31 KB, 574x271, wuthappn.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2688649

Hello
I'm building a ventilation system for two growing tents to stay as self sufficent as possible.But the humidity is becoming a problem.
I was thinking of building the ducts as pic, to have some recirculation of the warm air created in the tents. But will that work with the T-junction I had in mind?

Any vent-fags here that can give input?

>> No.2688734

>>2681153
What are some things I can actually make with empty soda cans? I feel like I should be able to make a steam engine or something from them, but can't really find plans for such

>> No.2688739

So how much does it cost to get carpet replaced including a small piece of the padding under it?

>> No.2688744
File: 218 KB, 825x563, wood-carving-crap.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2688744

where can i buy tools for wood carving, and what tools are more useful? i am just using a knife now, but i need a file to finish some parts, and i just learned there's also rasps and rifflers, i could just buy the first crap i saw on Amazon but i don't trust it, so want to ask if somebody knows what tools could be more useful and where to buy them?

>> No.2688749

>>2688649
>growing tents
>recirculating burner vent

Do a web search on "effect of carbon monoxide on growing plants"

>> No.2688802

why does the price of land in the USA generally increase as you get further from Mexico and closer to Canada even though the northern states are sparsely populated and economically marginal?

>> No.2688821

>>2688744
you may want a plane

>> No.2688838
File: 139 KB, 609x1024, 1690395647585.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2688838

>>2681153
Is a self-paced, online course for CNC machining worth it? It's through a partnership with my local community college and Ed2go. At ~$2250, it includes
>production floor safety
>CNC controls and programming
>metallurgy
>machining/grinding processes
>inspection methods
>six sigma, 5S methodology
>work holding principles
It states it doesn't prepare you for a certification, but the skills provided would help with an entry-level job.
Is this a red flag? There's also an in-person course offered by the college anyway

>> No.2688851

>>2688838
shit, posted the wrong image. oh well

>> No.2688889

>>2681153
Best way to secure walls and fixtures to the internal carriage of a van when doing a conversion? I'm not doing anything fancy but want it to at least be properly fixed so things don't break in transit. I've seen some secure beams to the carriage then secure walls and boarding to the boards but idk if that's the best approach

>> No.2688985

>>2688437
Was the fire your fault?
If not, his insurance should cover accidents.

>> No.2689017

>>2688889
A better more specific question I have is

When I add insulation to my van is it safe to have the wires for my electronics and lights behind the insulation or do you need to create paths for wires where they don't come into contact with them? I presume it doesn't matter because of the insulation around them

>> No.2689074

Is there some ventilator specially made for smokers so that they can't stink up a room, and can it be done DIY?

>> No.2689121

>>2688985
Yeah it was. I don't have insurance just an $800 deposit he can keep.

>> No.2689163

>>2689074
box fan, window, and a chair next to the window.

>> No.2689402
File: 1.30 MB, 3195x2400, 20230929_213457-COLLAGE.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2689402

How do I salvage this $135 piece of shit? I tightened one side down at the wrong angle like a retard and the standoff twisted off. I can buy a replacement bracket, but I don't think I can source the screw that fastens onto the standoff, that comes as part of the heat sink - but I can pop the screw off. It's just being held by that retaining ring.

I'm thinking buy another set of mounting brackets, then fasten it down with a nut. Maybe even do it to both sides.

>> No.2689437

>>2689074
ozone generator to break down the odourants, or a filter with an oxygen mask to exhale into

combine the two for a permanent solution

>> No.2689465

>>2689402
I assume it's just threaded into the metal at the bottom, and the top piece is actually just a bolt through a threaded spacer that has the retaining ring? It looks like 2 different parts, if they actually put a retaining ring on the bolt itself I don't know how that would lead to clamping force. Worst case yeah, you can just put a bolt through it probably. Hardest part is removing what's left of the bolt from the bottom, and if you were going at an angle there's a chance you've totally fucked the threads in there too. Dremel a slot to get a screwdriver on it, I guess you could just put a bolt and nut through if its fucked but it'll be fiddly.

>> No.2689664

>>2681153
I have a question.
>be poorfag
>blew tire
>tires are only a year old, maybe 4000 miles
>can I just buy one new tire and have it replaced?
ChatGTP is warning me that my car will cost more in the long run because the balance will be off or something, and that I should replace all four tires.
I don't know if I buy that. I just dont want to spend more money than I have to. If I just replace one, wont it wear more quickly anyways, catching up to the other tires tread and just balance out over time?
Or is this an insanely stupid thing to do?

>> No.2689706
File: 459 KB, 828x970, 9EF8CF63-5A61-4728-B156-1B6BD5096E8C.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2689706

>>2681153
This is the bottom of my sink. The hole in the wall to the left leads to a place for a dishwasher. But it doesn't look like anything is set up to connect to a dishwasher. What would it take to get this going?

>> No.2689740

>>2689706
Water inlet, power, and waste water outlet. That little protrusion on the drain pipe to the right might be the remains of where the waste pipe was hooked up to for an old dishwasher, I don't know about the water source though.

>> No.2689748

>>2689740
Thank you

>> No.2689793

>>2689437
Thank you

>> No.2690028
File: 22 KB, 480x640, images.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2690028

I wanted to make some squishy toys like hitohada gel and puni gel toys, but they are very expensive to order
So I googled what hitohada and puni gel is made of and they say that it's a soft urethane resin
So I checked where else to get soft urethane resin on Google and the results that come up only talk about the problem people have of 'resin not setting properly and remaining soft', which isn't what I'm talking about at all
Do any of you guys know how I can make urethane resin that sets to be very soft and bouncy?
Pic related it's the hitohada gel box

>> No.2690112

>have a shop vac idk the model number, it's a very common dewalt, stainless steel tank
>need to set up basic dust collection for my orbital sander, which happens to be dewalt as well, also a fairly popular model
>dewalt doesnt make any couplings adapters or fittings for this
>nobody else does either, both seem to be rare sizes
>found a single company making a kit where you have to buy there special hose too
>hose won't fit on the vac side, no one makes an adapter with the necessary clip
>could maybe niggerrig something up with $75 of clamps, PVC fittings, RTV, and heat gun
>it's cheaper to just buy a 2nd small shop vac with the right size hose fitting but still will need to buy that aftermarket adapter kit

why the FUCK is it like this