/diy/ - Do It Yourself

I have a package!

>>2643986
XL chance flared with optional cum tube?

>>2643986
And there's a printer inside!

>>2644001
And it works with OrcaSlicer over WiFi without logging in, using the cloud, bluetooth, etc!

Sooo I got a printer that actually works finally (fuck the NP3), but where should I buy PLA from in yurop? I had one polyterra spool, which was decent. I have some esun, but I they shine too much. What about prusament? A bit more expensive, but I'm supporting a yurop store, and Prusa is supposed to be based. Doesn't look shiny either. I also found this store online. Any of these brands worth buying PLA from? I'm only printing functional prints, so I'd like to get good filament.

>>2644009
Get an enclosure kit and buy ABS instead.
Better value, it's less dense than PLA so you get more volume out of a 1kg roll, it's stronger, more impact resistant, more ductile, more UV resistant, more heat resistant, and with an enclosed printer it's just as easy to print as PLA, there are no downsides.

All of the brands you've got in that pic are absolutely fine. I'm a big fan of Polymaker and their American counterpart Overture, huge lineup, consistent quality. Sunlu is one of the biggest wholesale suppliers to cheap chinky brands. eSun is old and good, their filament is consistent and they've got a wide variety. Don't be afraid of cheap generic chink filament.

>>2644040
The printer is sitting in the corner of my room. I'm not sure if I want to get an enclosure and print ABS. Not yet at least. Sticking with PLA at least until I finish all of the projects from my secret .txt document, and then I'll think about ABS. Now that I think about it I should have just ordered Bambu PLA. The printer arrived in like 3-4 days, whereas my eSUN order isn't even shipped yet. I'd also want to support yurobrands instead of chink ones though.

protip: find the good filaments (engineering filaments) and then buy a shitton of it, and some cheap shit to prototype with.

>>2644045
I fucking despise Prusa, and his company, but Prusament is quality shit and Juropean.
Also check out Das Filament, if they're an option for you they are excellent, quality shit and cheaper than a lot of other Euro options.
Extrudr is another good Euro brand, worth looking at.

>>2644069
I thought Prusa were our guys. Das Filament has very wack shipping costs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dX6ANq5NLf0

yess

bigger printers

P1S = p1p with enclosure
X1E & X1L = hopefully bigger sizes

So fuzzy prints usually are a distance from build plate error or could my extruder be clunking out

I liked my Frankenstein cr10 size but I wanna upgrade that isn't creality

>>2644122
It was cozy in my dungeon basement that floods once a year

>>2644118
extruder clunking is my guess

>>2644118
all I did to fix mine was fuck around with the extruder, I jammed an allen key down into it and it seems to be fixed

if the clog was bad enough it would be failing to insert new filament from the AMS, there is a sensor that gets pushed out of the way when new filament is jammed into it, the little green light on the bambu software lights up when it's activated so it's easy to tell if it's fucking up or not.

chances are it won't be broken, might be obstructed or clogged, though yours is still printing so who knows. Try printing a different filament for a while, like PLA-CF or something.

white circle in the center there lights up green

>>2644140
Only thing good about creality is that it's cheap and easy to just swap out the extruder entirely

>>2644150
I changed from the 0.4 to the 0.6, it's not all that hard on bambu.

if you buy the whole assembly you would just unscrew two screws on the front (under the magneticly held on plastic front cover), then pull out the 3 tiny electronics connectors, slap new one in, plug in connectors, route under a little plastic hook thing to hold the wires in

>>2644150
also I recently ordered one of each extruder size except for the 0.2mm. Entire assemblies. Reasonably cheap.
should be here Saturday or so, 0.4mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm to play with.

>r-remember anons it needs to be a g-good idea !

https://hulkarms.com/

>>2644177
>9.2 billion chickens born in the us each year
>$9.99 per hulk arm
>that's a potential profit of $92 billion a year
>anon thinks this is not a good idea

>>2644204
I see your point.

>>2644204
Ok but 6 million

>>2644126
I'm just gonna do the $20 dollar replacement because trying to unclog these things is a pain

Is the ender 3 still a good way to get into 3D printing? It seems quite old.

>>2644231
It's the Honda Civic of printing. Reliable, cheap, slow but functional. There's also many many versions of it some of which are brand new so old my not be applicable.

i think i just spent like 300usd buying parts for my ender 3
how the fuck did that happen

>>2644260
This anon Ender be like.

>>2644260
>>2644264
I'm probably into four figures by now.

>>2644268
how the fuck do you upgrade a ender 3 with 1000+ dollars?

>>2644268
linear rails? fancy hot end? enclosure?

>>2644268
>in b4 toolchanger modded e3

>>2644264
I kind of miss those hideous things. I was in high school when fast and furious came out, the abominations that were in the parking lot really were amazing.

>>2644233
More important: aftermarket support and loads of troubleshooting history online. Any issue you have can quickly be rectified.

>>2644268
>Ender 3 of Theseus

Speaking of extruders. Whats one you'd put in a good word for?

>>2644283
Bondtech hands down.

>>2644122
Bro show me your knife on the right

>>2644117
But I just got my P1P...

>esun order ships 5 days later
>Australia post

A-Australia?

Please tell me you don't do this

>>2644339
What am I looking at? Some zeldaslop for the price of 50 cents?

>>2644339
I just ordered a 20 key macroboard and I plan on making them all custom and Warhammer themed

Look at me go bros.

>>2643977
What CAD software isn't cloudbased shit?
If it's something i hate it's when someone needs this for no real reason. I've been using fusion 360 so far but i really don't like how you need an account.

>>2644365
Just program the g-code by hand, schizo

>>2644365 Steal good old Solidworks 2019 until its too late.

>>2644339
why aren't you using an adblocker

>>2644336
did you order from cubictech?
auspost is usually pretty good if it just needs to get to the airport/boat
t.australian

>>2644382
No, from the eSUN official website, and I'm located in yurop.

>>2644283
I print a variety of material and like the direct drive from micro swiss. I do print on an ender 3 platform though so I am ok with slower speeds.

>>2644117
sweet, I was debating all week if I should get one or not and which one, but now I can just wait™ a little bit longer and hopefully get something even better. or theyll discount the old models a bit, either way works for me.

>>2644322
that's the way she goes

You guys think a litophane print of pic related would work?

>>2644436
Jk I already printed it and it's flawless.

>>2644443
neat

>>2644009
FormFutura. Its dutch and probably the best you can get in yurop. Buy quality and save yourself from the headache of dealing with shit filament.

Their TitanX/ApolloX and other engineering filaments are absurdly good if you need easy printing and strong ABS/ASA

I bought 10kg cheap german PLA for 135€ and severely regret it. Would rather have bought 5kg good PLA

>>2644283
Buy a gear kit from Bondtech or Ali and print a sherpa, sailfin or hextrudort

>>2644365
FreeCAD
Its shit in comparison, but muh freedom

>>2644449
>shipping is literally 25 bucks
>no reseller in my country

Grimothy.

>>2644462
Considering the hours i spent fiddling with shitty PLA, im happily paying 25€ for shipping

>>2644482
I think I'll just buy bambu PLA even though I prefer to support yurop.

>>2644486
5kg bambu Basic PLA is 112€ shipped (free shipping over 55€ and incl. the 25% discount on Basic/Matte) vs the 122€ (incl. 15€ shipping to my country) for 5kg of rPLA from FormFutura, i still think yorup is worth it

>>2643986
>>2644001
I got one last week as well. It's my first printer, been having so much fun printing stuff. Probably going to learn to use cad software

oh good, my steroids and my 4,6,8 hot-ends have arrived

>>2644508
rPLA?

>>2644509
You are avoiding the cloud and using it in offline mode and with our slicer orca, right?

>>2644514
Its their brand name for recycled PLA. Just picked the first product that I think would match Bambu Basic in quality. AFAIK rPLA is made of ground up spools of their premium stuff that wasn't within 1.75 tolerance. I've used both the premium and recycled stuff and haven't noticed a difference besides fewer colors available for the recycled variant.

They have other PLA variants around the same price range, such as ePLA at 20€/kg and Refill (no spool) PLA is 18€/kg
They also have more expensive shit like matt/tough at 30+€, but since I mostly print functional and as stated above can't tell the difference with the recycled stuff, I just stick with rPLA and rTitan(ABS blend)

>>2644520
The recycled PLA is not that shiny right? I have a spool of esun pla+. Got it because it's supposed to be higher quality and durable, but the shine is annoying.

>>2644524
Its medium to low sheen. Layer height and print speed has a big impact on the glossiness

>>2644519
No, should I?

>>2644365
OpenSCAD. Or some sort of FreeCAD fork.

>>2644534
Yeah, you're not giving your information to Jackie Chan. At least it's what I do. You lose remote monitoring via the camera, if that's even a thing. And I mean remove via your phone and the cloud when you're out fucking bitches. Otherwise you can still connect through your printer via wifi using the bambu or orca slicer. Except you don't need an account. It just werks.

I'm so happy I got into 3D printing bros. My GBS Control unit is almost finished. I just need to solder the scart and a power switch. I think I'm ready to start printing more complicated shit now.

>>2644584
Very nice work, anon.

fuuuuck slicing takes forever with a 0.2 layer height and 0.4 nozzle

>>2644681
What are you slicing, the Notre Dame at 1:1 scale?
I haven't had a slicer use more than 1 minute at 0.1 layers on my old laptop ever

Also just curious, (Prusa|Orca|Super)Slicer or Cura?

>>2644685
bambu slicer, similar to orca

i7 10700f, rtx4080

>>2644685
just complicated models with lots of detail, some sections that need support and tree style support generation

one thing I do have a problem with, is the bambu over the network saying "sd card is full" or similar error message, but it not being full at all.

have to restart bambu studio and send it again, works fine then.

We already made a mistake of buying a chinese product, but that doesn't mean we should make the mistake of using their cloud and slicer. You can turn LAN only mode and use Orca over WiFi without even logging in. The camera works with Orca if you installed the bambu slicer previously, and you backed up the bambu studio plugins folder in your app data folder befoer uninstalling the slicer. Not sure if that somehow makes the printer communicate with their cloud still though.

>go to plug my filament dryer box in
>have to unplug my treadmill first
>whirrrr bambu powers down
>"oh fuck god damnit why"
>plug bambu back in
>hit resume
>it's still printing properly

It's nice having a good printer that actually works for a change.

bros how in the actual fuck is my item printing FASTER at 0.2 layer height with a 0.4 nozzle compared to a 0.3 layer height with a 0.6 nozzle?

It's actually printing faster and it's somewhat boggling my mind.

5hrs instead of like 6 to 12

is it more difficult somehow for a 0.6 nozzle and 0.3 layer height to print detail? somehow the printer has to do it slower?

wtf

>>2644746
You chose settings that were slower. You could have gone faster with the 0.6, clearly, but you didn't. That's on you.

>>2644122
I'm not sure but a switchwire kit might work.

>>2644274
For me it was 2nd Z screw, metal hot end, capricorn tubing, spring steel build plate, sonic pad, and diamondback nozzle. It's reliably printing buttery smooth parts between 100mm/sec and 150mm/sec with PLA, and easily handling some fancy nylon.

Should I get a 0.2 nozzle for detailed prints?

>>2644778 0.3 is a minimum for reliable prints. Filament cleaning sponge is a must.

>>2644268
>>2644766

Damn, all I did was

>chimera all metal on stock extruder ~2.99 on a 4 pack from aliexpress

>switched to herome setup for sherpa mini, and dual 5015 ~7.99 for stepper motor, 3.99 for internal parts bondtech kit (clone), 9,99 for cheap 5 pack of 5015.

>z belt ~40usd

>skr pico, and orange pi 0 2 with klipper 23.99usd , 25.99usd

>meanwell psu ~40usd

>total: 154

But then again I dont use it all that often since I have 5 other printers.

>>2644785
I've been using the .4 on my p1 and it seems to print reliably...

I just got a Super 8 V1.3 board for my X5SA, how would I go about actually installing it and the four driver boards I got?

>>2644766
I'm doing metal hot end, 2nd Z screw with oldham couplers and POM nuts, and tie rod stiffners.
>nylon
Do you have an enclosure?

where can i get good fleshlight models?
serious replies only

>>2644823
just make a squiggle in solid works and extrude it out in a circle, then use it as a negative for 2 part silicon.

>>2644823
Best ones are just silicone casts from organic things. Try pouring silicone around a dragonfruit, a bunch of rocks in a condom, a fluorescent light bulb with the middle filled in, or a 3D print of a duck penis. Bonus points for adding fluid channels for a pressurised lube hookup.

just noticed the new tree supports are out of beta on cura, how are they really? I did some very quick tests and don't seem that much different from the old trees to me

Man I really hope these aren't warping. I really can't tell. The camera is a fisheye, so there's definitely not a curve, but if the brim didn't properly connect as you can see on the right it can definitely warp. Been printing for 4 hours and still have 9 left.

for a first timer, which would be better? found a local seller

MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2

da Vinci Jr. 1.0A Pro

I like the idea of using a resin printer hut I’m afraid of the side effects of getting dangerous particles in my lungs. How can I prevent this from happening?

>>2644798
Yes, thats because .4 is in the reliable range. Anon stated that everything less than 0.3 (eg. a 0.2 nozzle) would be unreliable due to dust clogs and shit like that.

>>2644810
You can print some nylons without enclosures just fine. Have a look at Taulman Bridge for example. I print that stuff on my Anycubic Mega without enclosure or brim, directly on a 70c bed with a piece of FR4/Garolite/G10 gluesticked to the glass bed.

>>2644900
the monoprice has a LOT of community upgrades/fixes, because its kind of shit, but it one of about 5 clone/rebrands of the malyan200, so quite a few people have been working on the fixes.
its what i learned on since it was only $200 in 2015ish and its VERY well documented for just about every issue you'll have (as long as you can figure out what issue you're having), even if the fix is to replace 50% of the printer. it even has a fan made wiki https://mpselectmini.com/start
it has a pretty small build size, but if you're handy enough to be able to swap out some linear rods and belts you can easily up that with a few printed parts
if you dont mind having a printer that will teach you how to fix a broken printer, it'll be a good learning experience, but if you want 'press button get funko-pop' go for a bambuu or prusa.

cant say much about the da vinci, but theres not many replacement parts/upgrades on thingverse or printables, so its either hard to upgrade/or doesn't need them, the fact theres a 2 for 1 deal on their own site doesn't look like a great sign to me though.

>>2644949
thanks for the insights

Anyone here built an enclosure for the P1P? I'm starting to think about it. It should help with the noise right? It's drilling my head in.

>>2644965
>he fell for the p1p meme

>>2644966
Nooo anon stop what was I supposed to get the prusa options were on back order for months...

>>2644009
ive used Geetech and a creality branded spool. geetech PLA is the most sold or most popular PLA on amazon fwiw.
havent tried anything beyond that though

i dont get it. im trying to make marlin firmware changes. the firmware compiles with no errors but when i load it onto the printer it just doesnt carry over the changes i made.

>>2644970
Easythreed k7

>>2644978
So you're compiling it no problem, putting the .bin file onto your SD card, inserting it into the printer and powering it on, this all sound right?
When you turn on the printer, does it boot normally, or is there a nice long pause while it flashes the new firmware?

What printer, what board?

>>2644989
Ender 3 with BigTreeTech SKR Mini V2.0
It takes a little longer to get to the boot screen after powering it on, like it should.
i have a feeling what the problem is.
i have AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR enabled in the firmware but the text for any
#if ANY(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR) is still greyed out even though it should allow me to make changes.
in particular i was trying to lower the amount of probe points in my mesh from 5 per axis to 4 but the text is greyed out when it shouldnt be.

there was a little light bulb giving me the option to stop VSCode from greying out disabled code but that didnt help anything. its still thinking those sections of code are disabled even though they arent. also, i cant figure out how to reenable VSCode to grey out disabled code sections. i find that pretty useful, assuming it works. apparently others are having issues with that feature as well

>>2644995
VSCode cannot enable or disable them, and the syntax highlighting can be fucky, ignore the fact that they're greyed out, honestly just ignore the syntax highlighting entirely unless you want to take the time to fix it and make sure it's working.
Make sure AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR is definitely enabled and that nothing else is.
If you're not getting a result, share your Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h

Lithophanebros we eating good tonight.

>>2645000
i figured it out. user error.
when doing firmware changes in marlin using VSCode the process is to get the Marlin firmware.zip as well as the configuration.zip. then you move the right config files into the marlin folder, then open the folder in VSCode.
then you click on the configuration.h and configuration_adv.h to edit them. and if you double click them they stay there permanently. even if you close and reopen, they will be there again.

then i went and saved the config files into a different folder just to save my progress. if you then close and reopen VSCode it will open the config files outside the marlin folder. and if you do any changes to those files and then try to autobuild it will basically do nothing because the changes you made are in the files that arent in the firmware folder. the config files in the firmware folder remain unchanged and are the ones being used when you go to build the firmware.

so the solution is to simply manually open the proper config files each time instead of relying on VSCode to open the right ones.

>>2644899
isnt it less efficient to print 3 at a time because of all the extra travel distance, also riskier because one bad movement can mess up all 3?

>>2645013
yeah but if you know your printer can print reliably then doing multiple at a time means you can just set and forget and have it run all day. whereas if you print them one by one you have to basically babysit your printer, clear the bed after each print and start the next one to get as many done as quickly as possible.

>>2645013
Yes, and Yes. Extra travels, retractions, and deretractions on every single layer, so it's slower, and comes with the risk of a single failure killing all 3 copies.
Using Marlin (M486) or Klipper (exclude_object) you can do object cancellation, which will at least allow you to "potentially" continue if one of the 3 fails, but only if you're there to actually tell it to stop printing the failed one.

"Ideal" would be to complete them one-by-one on the same build plate, saving the extra time of heating the bed and hotend, and not wasting travels and retractions, but that requires you to have enough gantry clearance for that to work. On a bedslinger printer, you can get away with a lot by just lining objects up along the Y-axis.
No babysitting, no time wasted.

if the X and Y endstops of my printer are outside the beddimensions, ie i home X and the nozzle is outside the bed, how do i tell the printer both for homing as well as printing where exactly the bed is located relative to the endstops? lets say im installing a smaller bed than stock. how would i tell my printer aside from just putting the new bed dimensions in the slicer?

>>2645019
In the slicer, you don't just specify bed dimensions, but also origin, the position of the home coordinates relative to the actual bed.
Similarly, this can be handled in firmware, with Marlin you specify bed size and travel limits separately. Set up correctly, 0,0 will always be the corner of the bed.
Similar deal with Klipper.

>>2645016

>>2645013
>>2645015
>>2645016
I have no idea, I just did one test of >>2644443 and it worked. Then sliced the other three separately as well as together, and the slice with all three at once was faster. I thought the brim was good enough, not sure. 3 hours left to go. Hopefully it works.

How fast can your Enders go before the quality noticeably suffers? Mine seems happy around 75mm/s but first layer still needs to be 25mm/s for good adhesion.

>>2645061
Do you use input shaping and linear advance?
100mm/s external, 160 internal and infill, I still run 25mm/s on the first layer.
2000mm/s^3 accel for external perimeters, 2400 for everything else, 1200 for bridging, 3500 for travel.

Really nice and consistent compromise between speed and quality.

>>2645065
I've not ventured into any of that voodoo yet. How hard is it to turn on and tune?

>>2645068
If you're comfortable with firmware, it's cake.
If you haven't compiled your own Marlin or switched to Klipper, then it may be more involved than what you've done before.
With Marlin, you enable Linear Advance and Input Shaping in Configuration_adv.h and compile some fresh firmware; with Klipper you just edit your config, easy stuff.
Tuning is similar either way, easy "run this print and pick which layer looks best" type stuff. OrcaSlicer can hold your hand through tuning Linear Advance/Pressure Advance. There are great videos on all of this shit thankfully, and Teching Tech did a good one on Input Shaping in Marlin: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VLuz3hReYw

Any idea why this one got printed kind of shitty? Check the lines out. At some places it's really thin too. I wonder if it's because the image resolution used to make the stl was too low. Or maybe it was the contrast?

>>2645072
Good to know. I'll give it a try.

I want to into 3d printing and I was thinking of getting a Voxelab Aquila X2 because 1. I'm cheap and 2. I want a large printing area, but I've been looking a fair amount of reviews and it seems a lot of people think it's just shit.

I want to make molds, specifically for making small concrete statues out of them, nothing more than a foot or so tall. Might also make some silicone molds but degeneracy is a bit of an after thought.

I have no idea if I'll like or ever even really use the printer outside of a few random ideas I have for it, so I don't want to buy something too expensive at first.

Anyone have suggestions for a cheap printer that I could possibly upgrade later on if I needed it?

Whats the catch?

>>2645152
print dimensions are tiny, it even says right there

How many of you here are wasting your time with nonfunctional prints? do something like picrel isntead

>>2645163
no thank you, i shall now proceed to print 10 baby yodas and Dwayne johnsons

>>2643977
Started doing the thing everyone tells you not to do, which is put together parts for a modded Voron as my first from scratch printer build. Aiming to do a v0.2 w/ tri zero, future proofing the design to be also be compatible w/ double dragon later.
Kinda underestimated how much money I would have to spend. I'm in the hole around $550~ so far, still need to order print bed, associated surfaces for said print bed, custom silicone bed heater, custom panels, 300mm extrusions for the lengthened x axis, and of course parts for the second print head. The print head and panels can wait, for now, but it'll still be around another $200 for the last set of necessary components.

>>2645234
The cost of formbot and LDO motor kits wasn't a hint that Vorons were somewhat expensive?

>>2645237
I mean, it was. But I thought by self sourcing I could somehow get the cost somewhere closer to the cheaper Chinese kits, while not having awful parts. Then I realized I didn't want to cut any of the corners that most of the kits did.

>>2645163
>you can now 3d print your own guns
>you just need a 3d printer, pla+, and gun parts
Those guys are fucking retards. When I designed a gun that was 100% 3d printed I was ignored

>>2645163
there are PDW frames and all kinds of fun stuff

much more fun than 3d printing things easy enough to just buy. I hope 3d printing technology advances by leaps and bounds. Maybe we should be googling for affordable metal printers?

>>2645255
>When I designed a gun that was 100% 3d printed I was ignored
What material did you use for the chamber of this 100% 3d printed gun?

>>2645268
Pla+. I was experimenting with making a barrel liner that was printed in a perpendicular pattern to the sleeve it would be glued into for extra strength. I was also planning on experimenting with gain twist to put less pressure on the rifling.
I never got into test firing, there was an issue with my spring system so maybe it would never work. Haven't touched the project in a year now

>>2645276
What caliber?

>>2645279
Just 22lr

>>2645255
Design matters. Being able to shoot the thing a lot matters too.

Building a Mendel and Acrylic I3 soon.
I am insane.

>>2645255
Yeah, but was it any good?
There are some decent nearly 100% 3d printed .22lr's out there.
And there are some with homemade ammo that only require screws.

>>2645295
There are no anywhere-close-to-decent 3d printed guns out there. They are inaccurate, unstable, dangerous, unreliable shit that are limited to light load or primer rounds. Even the nylon barreled one. I love 3d printing and printers but ffs lets not kid ourselves here.

>>2645295
It was probably the best 100% design of the time, imo. Which is to say it's kinda shit. 15rd capacity, removable magazine, I thought the design was aesthetic.

>>2643977
Sunlu meta PLA is kinda nice desu, only issue is it ends up being a physical representation of your flow rate

>>2645268
>>2645290
>>2645295
Here it is, it's ugly and extremely unconventional but it comfortable and makes the best use of its material to prevent breakage.
https://i.imgur.com/rkl2VPC.jpg
>can fit in in an abdominal carry holster
>15rd capacity, but can take smaller mags
>no sights, and the mag moves into a position to block looking down the gun making it harder to aim
>was eventually going to add some kind of canted rail
>oddest feature: middle finger trigger. It allows the gun to be more compact and allegedly makes hip firing more accurate because your index finger is extended toward the target
I wouldn't mind returning to 3d gun design, but /k/ has been a shithole for over a year now. imo a 3d printed gun that needs a bolt and barrel isn't a 3d printed gun

>>2645310
If it has no barrel then how does it spin the bullet? If it has no bolt then what inserts and extracts the shell into the chamber?

>>2645315
I mean a metal bolt and barrel. Both are extremely complicated parts that can't easily be produced by most people

>>2645320
ic. Does your gun even have a barrel though? Looks like the bullets insert right at the front.

>>2645310
>imo a 3d printed gun that needs a bolt and barrel isn't a 3d printed gun

then make metal printing a reality because reductive manufacturing could build a goddamn .22lr minigun

>>2645321
It's a 2 inch barrel, and can realistically only increase to about 3 inches. It's based on a slide gun, each bullet has its own barrel

>>2645325
Gotcha. You should finish it.

>>2645299
Got like 400 round through one of my printed barrels. Lol
>>2645302
>>2645310
Did it shoot?
Interesting.

>>2645310
There are some fully 3d printed .22lr bolts, the barrel for longevity needs to be metal, though what kind of metal is up to you.

>>2645350
what kind of nylon?

>>2645352
PLA+.
It's a homemade ammo. About the power of a 32 S&W long.

>>2645350
I never got around to firing it. I had issues with how the barrel sleeve was printing and my early design used orthodontics rubber bands as the springs. I later redesigned it so it used 3d printed springs but lost interest in the project. This is also about the time Biden got into office and I wasn't sure how distributed 3d printed gun files online would be treated by the atf, and the Ukraine war make /k/ less that usable at the time.
>>2645351
The issue I have with homemade metal barrels is you can't carve a chamber into it using the homemade wire edm machines. That essentially limits you to only ever making 22lr gun barrels since their chamber is the same diameter as the bore. I wanted to eventually work my way up to larger calibers once I could get my design working

>>2645255
>>2645310
A majority of the 3D printed gun movement is about circumventing USA gun regulations, where you can get everything except for part X without any license at all. But for a lot of the country that doesn't apply, which is where designs like the FGC-9 come into being. While they still use some metal parts, they use parts that require no machines other than a 3D printer to make. They cleverly use electro-chemical machining via wires in a 3D printed jig to add rifling to off-the-shelf tubing.
The aim of the FGC-9 is to be made in any country in the world without putting you on any sort of watch list. The "FGC" stands for "Fuck Gun Control".

>>2645356
>you can't carve a chamber into it using the homemade wire edm machines
Blind boring/drilling EDM machines can do that, which is a pretty minimal modification to a wire EDM setup, but it might take longer to perform the process. ECM may not be precise enough itself, but it might be worth a shot. Otherwise there may be methods that use ECM or pipe couplers to make a rough chamber, and then 3D printed or cast epoxy parts that fit in there to make it a proper, precise fit. Metal would still be handling the pressure so the internal piece would only need to be heat tolerant. It might also be an option to print or cast a plastic reamer / rotary-form-tool, to be coated in an abrasive for grinding an ECM chamber more precise.

>That essentially limits you to only ever making 22lr gun barrels
Is there an issue with non-rimfire pistol-style rounds?

There's also the option of making a diy cartridge system, which may be a necessity anyhow since I doubt yuros and chinks can get ammo easily. My money is on electrical ignition so you don't need to make primer.

reee this is the first print in PAHT-CF that keeps warping and pulling up away from the bed.

>>2645405
I really should have printed test models in PLA-CF first.

Sometimes I'm just an idiot, it seems.

>>2645152
Tiny prints, but super high res
The fumes are horrendous according to a guy I met that sold the prints in his local game store

>>2645356
Anon, go and look up Eternal revolts ECM project.
There are many barrel options now.
And, I personally have made my own 25 acp one. (Still testing)

>>2645405
Elmers glue my friend.

I put my P1P on a concrete block over a rubber tile. I can't tell if anything changed.

mars 3, mono 2 or halot one/lite?

>>2645652
Lets say this setup reduced vibrations by 10 percent, which is great from an engineering perspective. 3d-Printers have tolerances around 0,1 Milimeters, so your Parts will be 0,01 Milimeters more accurate. You think youre gonna notice?

>>2645673
For moving parts or parts that interlock that could be a big difference

>>2645680
Nope, I design interlocking parts myself, they need around 0,1 to 0,2 mm of tolerance, depending on what kind of fit you want

>>2645673
I don't know about all that, I just copied some youtuber. Supposed to help with vibrations and in turn noise. More importantly, now that I'm done printing the lithophane panels for my lantern though, I need to figure out how edit someone else's stl models. This dude that made the lantern has it set up to be powered with a battery. I'll just use an arduino nano instead and power it via USB. I gotta change his model so I can mount the nano. Can that be done with any CAD software or nah?

>>2645685
I've used as much as 1mm of tolerance for parts off my ender 3. It is really just going to depend on what it's fitting into. If anon is really into precision shit then maybe it will help

>>2645687
STL files are kinda one way, but you can potentially do it
What I would do is design the nano mount separately and in your slicer software just merge them

relevant:
>>2645694

>>2645691
Yeah that's smart. I could also just glue it on. I also need to change the hole diameter for the threaded inserts, because I got smaller ones on accident. I'm also starting to work on a fan bracket design. Gotta make it myself because I can't find one on the internet. Pic related.

>>2645522
I will try that if I can't get this print to work.

It warped like a friggin banana but the important part might still be good enough.

Currently cleaning all the PAHT-CF off of it (nightmare)

>>2645685
>they need around 0,1 to 0,2 mm of tolerance
Tolerance is not the same as precision, which is not the same as accuracy. Vibration affects the precision of extruded parts, but this variance is usually a small part of overall dimensional accuracy (high speed printing excepted). The bigger factor is that the extruded line of plastic is not an ideal rectangle in cross section that perfectly fills the path assigned to it. It bulges a bit at the sides, with the top and bottom being narrow, which produces the result of the printed part being a little wider than specified. The .1-.2mm part fitment tolerance is mostly to accommodate this, and it's possible to very precisely control this tolerance to achieve different clearance fits..

>>2644810
No I don't, Polymaker's CF blends can tolerate having no enclosure. I think NylonX can as well but I haven't tried it yet, the most I would do is one of those insulated bag/tent units.

>>2645725
The old elmers glue stick method was the only way I could get away with printing that and ABS for some reason.

i have this Y-shaped piece thats too big for my bed. i want to cut the "horns" of the Y-shape to get a better angle for the print orientation as well as being able to hide the seem a little in those cuffs. as you can see im also cutting into the other horn. how would i avoid this?

>>2645789
I have a Bambu x1c with enclosure and everything, I know why one half of it warped up I think, it's where I tend to carelessly put my fingers/thumb when taking parts off of the high-temp plate so it had a little oil spot there that made the brim come unstuck.

The other end though, not much excuse for that end bowing up. It's a long thick part, basically a 2x4 shape.

I'm currently printing some PET-CF from a separate filament dryer as it's not AMS compatible (probably too abrasive and/or brittle before printed). I don't know what the mechanical properties will be compared to PAHT-CF (nylon) but perhaps it will be durable enough for use and also less prone to warpage.

>>2645821
Render in a cube and position it so that it intersects with the part you want removed, then set the cube to not print

>>2645824
I've found my friends Bambu with the standard sheet that comes with it to be shit with materials like that.
So I've got him on a steady stick glue diet.

>>2645854
I've printed so many things that stick just fine with only the heated bed heat on the high-temp plate, but the high temp plate must be totally oil free.

This quite large (had to orient it diagonally to even fit on the print bed) is the only one I am having adhesion problems with in PAHT-CF.

>>2645852
i dont want to not print the cut part. i want to cut it into parts so it can all fit on the bed. i would use pegs to connect them back together afterwards.

>>2645860
Tinkercad might be better. Failing that, actual CAD.

hmm PET-CF seems to be a midpoint between PAHT-CF and PETG-CF in brittleness

it might work, not sure yet

>>2645860
>>2645852
>>2645821
>>2645885
i fixed it by just exporting the wrongly cut off part as an STL and then loading it back into the object i cut it from, eyeballing it as best i can to put it back in place, then doing the second cut where i wanted it to.

sometimes, when trying to generate some complex support structures, the slicer takes seemingly forever to generate yet none of my components are actually at 100% usage. is there a reason for that, and can i fix this? i have a reasonably powerful CPU that shouldnt have a problem generating those supports, especially if it were to be utilized fully

never 3d printed anything before and I just ordered this shitter

what am I in for?

>>2645909
>Garbage can.
Completely useless toy garbage scam that preys on children and their single mothers.

>>2645909
you're in for wishing you had a bigger budget lmao

>>2645909
Spending $100 on "upgrades" then realizing you should have just bought a better printer.

Looking at getting a custom g10 sheet cut for my print bed, that's magnetic. Do I get a magnetic sheet and just use that, or should I insert some magnets to align with the ones in the aluminum print bed? I'd have to go with a thicker g10 sheet for inset magnets, but I haven't had anything stick to it after cool down anyway, so being able to flex it doesn't seem too important.

>>2645946
Just get a magnetic sheet and keep the thickness low-moderate. If you make it too thick you're gonna have heat transfer problems. The top will be significantly colder than your thermistor readings indicate.

I'm brand new to 3D printing. The extent of what I know is that you feed plastic wire into a device and it recreates a CAD file.

I have my eyes on the Ender 3 S1. Is there any meaningful difference between the S1, S1 Plus, and the S1 Pro, for someone like me? I'd be willing to fork over the extra cash if there is something worthwhile that they add.

>>2645967
The Pro can print higher temps which means more exotic materials and the Plus has a bigger build area. Neither are things you'll probably use.

IMO, neither are worth the price increase over the stock S1 nor is the S1 worth $400. I've seen S1's as low as $200 - $250 bucks which is a great buy.

Have you checked out the Neo line? I've seen them on sale for under $170. They're also a great buy and printer at that price.

>>2645946
I would advise laminating a thin (like 1mm or less) g10 sheet to a spring steel sheet. The steel prevents it from warping when printing high temp materials, and lets it be used like any other magnetic flex sheet. You might be able to find a ready-made product for your printer if you don't want to do it yourself.

>>2645973
Prices seem to be all over the place, ranging from highway robbery to suspiciously low.
I spotted an S1 for $260, but it's a huge amount of them that are being listed as used... something fishy happening? https://www.ebay.com/itm/185479421217

Also, what am I losing by stepping down to the Neo?

>>2645996
>something fishy happening?
The margin for 3d printers is huge. They're basically a bunch of cheap off-the-shelf parts so the production cost for something like an s1 is probably well under $100.

That particular listing is used so $260 kind of high. Microcenter has sold new s1's for $200 and they're currently on sale at the Creality store for $284. For the extra $20 I'd probably buy new direct from Creality.

>Also, what am I losing by stepping down to the Neo?
A little bit of nozzle temp and it has the more traditional bowden tube extruder vs the s1's direct drive extruder so the ability to print some of the exotic filaments.

Personally I prefer bowden tube extruders over direct drive for most filaments. You get a more powerful extruder that's mounted to the frame of the machine vs putting all the mass on the x carriage and flinging it around. Also parts are cheaper and things easier to repair.

You just need to get a printer and start printing to figure out what you actually want.

>>2646015
Forgot, the s1 also has a bigger screen and looks cooler.

>>2646015
>they're currently on sale at the Creality store for $284
Thanks for the help. I'll go ahead and snag this, the price difference between this and the cheapest Neo I can find is pretty negligible.

i applied for a research position at my university and the professor in charge of it seems pretty interested. i taught myself f360 earlier this year to learn how to print guns basically, but this guy asked me to basically demonstrate my abilities by modelling a heat exchanger. never really done anything like this but it seems neat. my school has access to big boy metal printers and shit, so it would be super rad to pull this off and get machine time on something like that.

I bought a prusa mk3 last year.
Did I make a mistake by not getting a bambu instead?

>>2646055
No, your printer is just fine and the money is already spent. Only mistake youre making is worrying about min-maxing your printers capabilities instead of focusing on printing

>>2646055
in 10 years youll be glad you got a mk3 instead of some proprietary bamboo shit. You made a good choice anon

>>2646015
>vs putting all the mass on the x carriage and flinging it around
while you're not wrong, reminder that the bed, especially with glass, is so much heavier than a dd extruder will ever be so caring about something like that on a bedslinger is pointless

I put my P1P in lan mode, is it possible to block Orcaslicer's access to the internet but allow it access to my network? I think I'm getting a second router anyways that I will use for the printer and switch networks when I need to print because I don't trust the lan only mode on it

>>2646076
>>2646081
thanks! Someone on rcg posted really well printed componants using a bambu..
Im fairly pleased with the Prusa. Its my first printer and Im printing loads of 100% petg parts to make an autonomous boat (not the hull but a lot of attachments, gps mast, hatches etc). I figured out to buy a special print plate for petg, clean the nozzle regularly, get a filament dryer and recalibrate it if I move it to a new location.

>>2646120
I was wondering the same. I figure we should be able to block some ports but I'm not sure.

You need a bunch of ports open even in LAN mode just to find the printer and send g-code. Not sure how much we can block.

>>2646154
I might get an old laptop just for slicing or figure something out with a virtual machine with no internet access then

>>2646163
I'm surprised no nerd has done a "do this and this to block internet" guide, or hacked into it yet. It's been months. Can't be that hard at all.

>>2646166
Other than curiosity and paranoia over the cloud aspect there really isn't much to gain, bambu shit has everything you might want.
Only thing I'd be interested in is exposing the raw data to the inspection cameras, bed leveling, lidar and steppers

Afaik the X1 carbon in particular runs android, I also wanna install kuroba and shitpost from it

>>2646166
I think I figured it out, just get a second cheap router that's only connected to your PC and printer, block the slicer from your internet network so it can only communicate via the local network and neither the printer nor the slicer should have access to the internet. Also never update the firmware because it looks like it stores data locally too

>>2646034
Glad to know the curriculum hasn't changed.

>>2644291

>>2644286
These do look pretty sexy

>>2646174
is it possible for the printer to access the internet network by using my PC as a router to get to the second network? I'm retarded when it comes to coomputer science but I'm pretty sure this shouldn't be possible

>>2646154
If you're worried about the printer phoning home, it might be better to block egress traffic to bambu's IPs instead of tweaking ports
Or add an egress firewall rule for the printers IP/MAC

>>2646166
Its a IoT device like any other. Just google "[router brand] block outgoing traffic". There's plenty of people online asking how to block shitty smart devices like Smart TVs, I'm sure you can find a step by step guide that matches your setup

Lithopane is old news bears
HueForge is in

>>2646166
If you need hand holding you can probably find an anon who can help in the stupid questions thread on /g/
Probably better for this thread too, since cloud paranoia is only marginally relevant to 3dprinting

>>2645967
im using the standard ender 3 as my entry printer. its good enough for what youd realistically want to print as a noob and theres a fuck ton of printable parts and add ons for this printer. theres also a bunch of upgrades but i wouldnt go beyond a bed leveling probe. not worth it spending more money on upgrades than the printers own cost.

what are those artifacts on my infill? i guess extrusion problems, but the way it creates a pattern seems weird. dont remember the speed i was printing at but im currently printing something with 80mm/s and im getting similar artifacts, though not quite as bad.

>>2646192
didn't ask

>Want to sell my Ender 3 Neo and get a P1P while its on offer
>Don't want to list it on eBay as I don't have the box
>Don't have any one I know to sell it too
Fuck

>>2646204
Get a Box then. Selling on ebay is surprisingly easy and

>>2646207
After the postage I'd have to add on and fees I wouldn't get as much as I'd want as it would push the price up too high to make it worth it
I have an enclosure + the printer and was thinking £190 for them together was an alright deal considering I was selling the enclosures for £49 on ebay at one point

>>2646196
seeing how it looks fucked up all over but there's a pattern ... check the cooling fan, and do a nozzle cleanup to be sure while you're at it

>>2646209
offerup/fbm

>cleaning the nozzle
>not just swapping to a new one

>>2644009
recycled PLA from Recyclingfabrik is surprisingly good, I tried it and I think I'm sticking to it
also if you save up PLA misprints/prototypes/test print stuff for a while you can get a label from them to ship it for recycling, and they give you a bit of store credit

pretty nifty

>>2646279
>website in German

I have A2 in German, but I don't feel like dealing with this.

>>2646188
but how do you block the slicer from communicating while still being allowed on the network? Also what this anon said, is it possible for the printer to get access to the internet router through a device that is connected on both networks? >>2646180

>>2646279
>1 kilo of waste material nets you 100 points, so a single euro.
i already started piling my waste material into a bin because i thought making a DIY extruder would be worth it (it isnt). but im honestly not convinced its worth the effort. espeically because you can only get 25% off your purchase max, even if you have more points. i think id rather toss it

>>2646279
>recycled shit 18 eur per kg
>non recycled abs 8 eur per kg
Why is this allowed?

>>2646247
I don't use social media, I might put it on gumtree or something. But I hate the idea of meeting up with some one to do the exchange

I'm too autistic for this shit

>>2646343
That just eliminated the whole point

>>2646382
The point is relative. You seem to think it's to reduce price. Others think it's to reuse waste.

Where I work we sell ender printers. Got the K1s in yesterday, a co-worker already bought one (with staff discount). The store display model (we’re not allowed to print on this one after we fried a V2 Neo) feels like the belts rub when you move the print head around. We’ll see how it goes.

printed a new phone case in PET-CF this time, going to see how it stacks up to nylon.

>>2646478
printing a phone case that's a bit too tight is the best damn way to get a feel for a material

PET-CF too brittle, going to try printing Taulman PCTPE again.

Is it worth spending $60/year on DefCad just to gawk at all the neat things?

They do have some neat shit on there.

>>2646487
DefCad is a fed honeypot that's long since gone to shit and been abandoned by everyone of note.
Anything that's there but not elsewhere is unusable garbage. Don't waste your time or money handing your info to the feds.

Here's the taulman PCTPE print settings I tried last, except the bottom value was 17 instead of 17.6

anyway, is there anything obviously wrong here?

>>2646300
Go onto your home router
Find the printer in the list of devices. Block that device from accessing the internet.
Google your router and how to do it, but it will be straightforward enough

>>2646184
Blocking bambus IPs in your router's firewall will work, but it means you will not be able to access bambus website from your computer anymore.
Your second suggestion is much better

>>2646176
it's not for a class, i'm not even mech E, i just saw that they had an undergrad research position for medical implant prototyping. apparently some company gave the school a bunch of money.
are heat exchangers some sort of common thing you design in undergrad?

>>2646531
Literally every uni course I've ever seen that was 3D printing related included heat-exchanger project. I have no idea why.

>>2646191
>hueforge
Could be really great with 8 colors
CYMK only goes so far

>>2646487
not when the gatalog and awcy and others are free and actually won't blow your fingers off on the first round

>>2646549
defcad's a scam but i don't get the meme of "blowing your fingers off" that gets perpetuated. no one is using a printed bcg for 5.56. for anything more powerful than 22LR you're using off the shelf metal parts. with 22LR, you can hold rounds with pliers and bang on them with a hammer all day. it's just not that powerful of a round. you don't want to be shot by it sure but you'd be hard pressed to blow your fingers off with it.

>>2646553

>>2646561
Lmao so hard

How small can I reliably design features? If I printed a cup in vase mode, would it hold water?
If so, does it continue down with smaller nozzles?
With a tiny 0.1mm nozzle could I print a paper thin cup that still holds water?

>>2646590
>How small can I reliably design features?
Depends on nozzle size. Roughly half.

>If I printed a cup in vase mode, would it hold water?
Not even close.

>With a tiny 0.1mm nozzle could I print a paper thin cup that still holds water?
No.

>>2646592
>>If I printed a cup in vase mode, would it hold water?
>Not even close.

>>With a tiny 0.1mm nozzle could I print a paper thin cup that still holds water?
>No.

Why? Is it a "mechanical accuracy of the machine" type of thing? At some point, with a thick enough line, you could have a watertight cup. I would imagine if you did a vasemode print with a 1mm nozzle you'd get a cup that could hold water. And I could imagine if you had a tiny nozzle laying plastic the width of a human hair, you probably would not get a cup that could hold water.
But at what point does that transition happen and why?

>>2646593
You need someplace between 3 to 6 walls before prints become water tight. I've not deep dived the topic so don't know the whys, I just know the results.

>>2646593
Some tips that might make your walls seal better:
>higher temperature for better layer-to-layer adhesion
>PETG for its superior layer-to-layer adhesion
>setting your wall width to be significantly wider (more squeezed out and into gaps) than your nozzle diameter
>avoiding tight corners
>linear advance, proper accel/jerk tuning, and low vibration for more consistent flow
>annealing or remelting your print in plaster or salt or whatever
That last one is an extreme method but will likely work. Assuming you can get the mould to remain rigid and not deform your print when it softens. It's also better for strength reasons.

>But at what point does that transition happen and why?
I think the only issues is vibrations causing your thin wall to bounce about as you try to print atop it. Bedslingers will then be worse than CoreXY and CroXY, and upside-down or ceiling-mounting will be even better. Otherwise I see no reason that sufficient layer adhesion couldn't give you a human-hair thick cup if you could extrude consistently enough at that thickness.
Though mechanical accuracy and repeatability may be a player, if you have a printer that's limited in resolution by shitty steppers or shitty stepper drivers. Do the math yourself to see if the X and Y resolutions of your drivers at their set microsteppings will cause your steppers to move your bed/print head significantly less distance than the width of the wall. My guess is no, but that doesn't account for repeatability. Getting a dial indicator to measure X and Y backlash may be a good idea if you're planning on printing precision parts. Minimising Z backlash isn't nearly as important unless you're doing Z hops, but it's still useful for getting the bottom ~10 layers printing nicely without elephant's footing. It's also much more prevalent than X and Y backlash, so you should pay attention to all of them.

>>2646596
Printing with what?

>>2646506
why does a 3d printer need an internet connection? I transfer stuff using an sd card..

>>2646616
>Printing with what?
It was years ago I wanted some vases so when the PLA ones leaked I tried PETG and ABS. PETG leaked the least but still was unusable. I ended up pouring in resin and coating the inside to seal them up.

>>2646300
> is it possible for the printer to get access to the internet router through a device that is connected on both networks?
Yes, when network bridging is explicitly enabled and configured on the device. You won't have to worry, as its not enabled by default on Windows.

>>2646623
Same as with internet connected lightbulbs. Perceived convenience

>>2646200
> Complains about lack of guides
> Nooo I'm not asking for help, I'm just stating facts
Why bring it up then? If you don't actually need a guide or don't care why come in here complaining?

>>2646300
> how do you block the slicer from communicating
Like >>2646184 said, you could easily block bambus entire IP range. This will block everything including the slicers access.

Another option is to mask the DNS for bambulab.com and bambu-lab.com, so they point to 127.0.0.1, which effectively blocks all traffic

Also looks like they AppConfig.cpp and a few other files to configure the callback URL, so you could easily compile OrcaSlicer without Bambu cloud support

Smartbros, do you think this will print in this orientation and with no supports? The guy that I stole it from didn't give any guidance on how he printed it, but the orientation the file came in was 90 degrees clockwise. That would obviously need supports, but regardless, wouldn't it be better like this? This is the project.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5858280

>>2646681
If you print with high stepover that amount of overhang should be fine.
0.4 or 0.6mm nozzle at 0.2 layers would be my choice. 0.1 layers if you don't trust your printer

>>2646689
Ok yolo.

I just picked up a "da Vinci Jr. 1.0A Pro" for $50 but I'm a total newb...

is there a good forum for this one?

Any one bought overture PLA+? Its on offer on prime day atm and I could do with a spool of purple or grey to print something that will require a bit of strength

Pic unrelated

>>2646702
I'm sorry you wasted your $50 on an ancient proprietary shitheap. You cannot use any of the software or advise that's frequently given in this thread, none of it applies to that nightmare box. Be glad you paid a reasonable price for it, given that it belongs in the garbage can.

>>2646717
Overture is Polymaker's American brand, great shit, nothing bad to say about it.

>>2646766
it can use 3rd party filaments?

>>2646768
Probably not the same overture, the page is full of chinglish
https://www.amazon.co.uk/OVERTURE-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy-Printer/dp/B09QG8X3X4
Might just pay the extra fiver and get some hatchbox stuff, I've heard they are good

>>2646770
Can't use good slicers, can't use good firmware, can't modify it significantly, can't repair it, it's not great when it's new and it's BAD in the long-term.
It's a bad printer, and only that $50 pricetag is saving this situation, because at least that wasn't a terrible price to pay for a box of (mostly trash) parts. If I were you, I'd scrap the electronics and get a real main board in there, really firmware, it'd be the biggest upgrade you could ever make to a davinci shitbox.

>>2646772
Same Overture. Founded and operated by Polymaker's CEO and other Polymaker employees and offering Polymaker's product line. It's their sister brand they started in the US to facilitate cheaper imports.

>>2646768
>>2646772
>>2646775

>>2646770
Not if it hasn't been modified to do so or has an official DaVinci filament unlocking dongle.
Fucking garbage brand of garbage printers. Wouldn't have paid $50, or even $5.

>>2646775
Oh so it will be good then? I'll get a spool then, shame their purple isn't as nice as the hatchbox one though

>>2646786
Overture and Polymaker are both consistently very good filament.

>>2646410
If recycled PLA takes such an investment of labor and resources that the company needs to charge more than twice as much as for new, what's the point in recycling?

>>2646681
>>2646689
>>2646692
Holy shit it printed literally perfectly. It's like I bought it from the store. Not sure what's up with that line in the middle but fuck it. Simracingbros we eating good. After I'm done with this wind sim I'm making a shifter, then a button box. Also, why isn't every black PLA matte like this? This is just polyterra, but if I used my esun PLA+ it would have looked like shit guaranteed. The polyterra was supposed to be my fuck around filament but it just works.

>>2646806
There really isn't at this point outside of the environmental concerns. Making shit from scratch is just cheaper, and it happens at an incredible scale that keeps those prices down. Eventually, if nothing else changes significantly, then recycled will become cheaper than new, *maybe*. This is what happened with some metals, but even then there are caveats, and plenty of circumstances where "recycled" material either isn't an option or isn't financially viable.

>>2646807
The big difference being the eSun PLA+ would be leaps-and-bounds stronger than that Polyterra.
It's their weak-sauce filament that's meant to be environmentally-conscience, omitting some petroleum-based additives often used in PLA, that's it.
It is not recycled material, it's not biodegradable, it's their weakest PLA by a considerable margin, the only thing special about it is when you buy a roll PolyMaker plants a tree.
Sure is pretty though, great filament, prints beautifully with ease.

Can't link to Polymaker's material comparison charts directly, retard spam filters don't like the URL: https://us.polymaker.com/collections/all
Click "Materials Comparison" near the top of the page.

>>2646807
>>2646812
Also, good work anon, gorgeous print.

>>2646596
>You need someplace between 3 to 6 walls before prints become water tight.
Anon, vase mode walls have no gaps (unless they're designed to). If your printer is working properly, a single vase mode wall is not just water tight but air tight. Sealing problems are generally with the base layer and how that interfaces with the vase mode wall, but if your printer is set up properly, those aren't difficult to make watertight.

>>2646807
That line is probably where it started and finished each layer

>>2646806
Feel good nonsense.

>>2646808
>Eventually, if nothing else changes significantly, then recycled will become cheaper than new,
PLA is practically renewable. Even if you ran out of oil tomorrow, PLA can still be produced. Its biggest issue is the industrial farming of the starchy plants.

It's the least likely material that would need to be recycled.

Question for anons: I'm fairly new to printan, just got a P1P and it works great. Main use case is for printing cosplay props and armor. To that end, do you think PLA or PETG will be the better material for this purpose? I've seen the videos comparing strength and temperature capabilities, basically I'm just curious as to your personal experience comparing the materials.

>>2646645
who are you quoting, ape?

>>2646822
PLA is better for aesthetics except where you need transparency, but it's relatively brittle. Both may deform if left in a hot car, but PETG would at least be recognizable.

>>2646822
PLA is STRONG but tends to be brittle, with very poor impact resistance, and poor temperature resistance; one ride in a hot car can ruin a PLA print.
PETG is typically more ductile than PLA, and has better temperature resistance, but the user experience printing PETG varies pretty significantly. With a P1P, I wouldn't be worried.
"PLA+" "PLA Pro" and other bullshit-PLA is another good option to consider, but the marketing makes it a little harder to choose, as everyone just says shit like "PLA+" and "PLA Pro" instead of telling you what it is. 4340D PLA has improved impact resistance, prints beautifully, and is generally an all-around "high performance" PLA, often marketed now as "high-speed" PLA because of its flow characteristics. 3D850 and 3D870 PLA are both phenomenally strong and impact resistant, they trade blows with Nylon, but don't live up to the hype unless they're annealed properly, which is its own can of worms to get into.

Actual recommendation: Stick some enclosure panels on that P1P and you can print in ABS or ASA, which are cheaper than PLA or PETG in the long run because of the lower density, they print absolutely beautifully, easier to sand than PLA or PETG, better temp resistance, strong, great impact resistance, ASA in particular also has great UV resistance so it'll hold up fine outdoors even if it's unfinished. Only downsides are you need an enclosure, and you need ventilation.

>>2646819
Obviously. Can't believe I didn't realize that immediately.

>>2646813
>>2646812
Interesting. Well this is just a fan duct so durability won't matter. I also used 20% infill and I think I'll just zip tie it instead of trying to design a bitchass bracket that could snap. Or just 3M tape it to my rig. Nigrigging stuff like taht kind of defeats the purpose of having a printer that can print literally anything but oh well. I'm also using a P1P. Not sure about good work. Basically cheating.

What about eSUN Upgraded ePLA-Matte? That's what I'm waiting on to print my shifter body. That needs to be durable. Reading the info on their website I'm under the impression it's literally the same as the polyterra.

>>2646826
I see what you mean on surface quality, I'll be sanding/filling/painting it all anyways so hopefully not a huge deal.

>>2646833
Thank you for breaking down PLA+ types, the lack of an actual mechanical standard gets pretty confusing between all the brands. Think it would be good to print panels for an enclosure or should i do the ikea table and screw some plexiglass into the legs?

Anyways thanks both of you for the info

>>2646839
Lots of "matte" PLA has modifiers that ruin the layer adhesion and make them incredibly soft compared to normal PLA, both of which totally compromise the strength. Still great for aesthetic prints, but not nice for anything functional. They're also usually lower density (1.14-1.17g/cc), so you get more volume in a 1kg roll, so that's pretty awesome in itself!

eSun's matte PLA is very, very similar to the standard PolyTerra PLA. If you want something that's still got a fairly matte finish but is stronger, I'd point to the PolyTerra PLA+, which still has a nice finish, but is distinctly stronger stuff than the standard PolyTerra or eSun's matte PLA.
In general, I'd usually say to avoid PLA that is labeled as "matte", as a lot of brands use additives that totally ruin layer adhesion and make them useless for anything functional/mechanical.

>>2646848
If it's a P1P, you can just get a panel kit, the printer is designed to be enclosed. You buy some acrylic panels that are already cut, print some minor components like a handle, and it all goes together easi-peasi. If you have access to a laser cutter or CNC machine, you can cut your own, or kits start around $60 online, check etsy.

>>2646853
I should say, the PolyTerra PLA+ is not nearly as matte as the normal PolyTerra PLA. It's much less shiny than most "normal" PLA and PLA+, but still not nearly the matte finish of the normal stuff, or eSun's matte.

>>2646853
>check all stores that sell polymaker locally
>not a single one of them have the +
>all they stock is the regular one and one store only has the PLA Pro

Why can't they just stock the +? I don't get it.

What if I were to print a female bust and put it on my wall as decoration? Like a pair of tits. I think it would look great. I was sitting here monitoring my second air duct print and thought how it resembles a titty. The finish on the polyterra would be perfect for it. And look at this. 3 hours and 150g for a 140mm fan air duct print. Imagine how much better that will be in a couple of years once some new sickass printer comes out. My mind is blown.

>>2646876
>complaining about selection at local shops
You actually go to a physical store to buy filament? Why? This a boomer thing?

>>2646917
No I don't but my shipping will be literally 1 day and either free or literally 3 bucks. I ordered from shitSUN on the 2nd and they split my shipping in two packages for wahtever fucking reason. One allegedly arriving Thursday, the other one next Monday. Like the fuck? 2-3 weeks for shipping in yurop? That's unheard of. My Bambu shipping was like 3-4 days, but do I wanna buy Bambu filament?

>>2646917
Not him but I wish shops near me sold filament. Sometimes I wanna just buy something on impulse and not wait for the next day for it to arrive

And also there's a 3D print store literally 10 minutes away from me. I can take a quick walk and enjoy the weather and big tits and asses in summer clothes and get my filament the same day. Except they stock brands like Spectrum, U3Print, and AzureFilm and I don't know what they're about. I guess it's just fucking plastic, but still. I don't wanna get burnt with shit filament.

>>2646807
change whatever line end/begin ("seam"?) is called to random position

>>2646924
I heard Americans can just go to bestbuy or some shit like that and just grab filament any time they want.

>>2646929
In the UK the only shop I think would be likely to stock 3D printer related stuff closed down years ago, and that would be an hour bus/45 min bike ride away

I wish I could just go outside and buy something on a whim sometimes

>>2646928
Neat. A lot of these settings I have no idea what the fuck they do. Any downsides to setting it to random? It only increases the print time by 15minutes for the titty duct. 3:07 to 3:21. Wish I knew about this before I started the second one so I can test it.

>>2646933
>bus/bike

Just get a car bro. Like a mk1 1.8t LC or something. You guys have a lot of mint ones. Speaking of local stores. I've noticed some of them sell the P1P, except they sell it for the equivalent of 935 EUR when it's 650 from Bambu. That's insane.

>>2646929
That's a fantasy.
Some people are lucky enough to live near a Microcenter. A small number of select few Best Buy locations carry proprietary AnkerMake and MakerBot filament, which is insanely overpriced shit.
Most of us don't have anywhere local they can buy filament or 3D printer related shit. Closest store to me that carries filament is a MicroCenter about 300 miles away.

>>2646940
At least you guys have radioshack or whatever it was right? I need a bunch of random shit for my wind sim and I have to order it from 5 different places instead of just walking into a store and grabbing it with my bare hands. Took me 6 hours to print the ducts and I need just 1 more hour to print the box for the arduino. I could build it in half an hour except I literally don't have the other parts. So gay.

>>2646939
Parking in the city costs more than the bus and I like riding my bike
I wouldn't buy an entire printer from a store (unless it was a good deal) But it would be nice to see what filament looks like with my own eyes so I know what the colour is like
I really want a P1P I wish I could find some one local to buy my Ender 3 Neo

>>2646945
>In February 2015, after years of management crises, poor worker relations, diminished revenue, and 11 consecutive quarterly losses, RadioShack was delisted from the New York Stock Exchange and subsequently filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy.
No, we don't.

>>2646948
Sad, but you have an alternative for sure.

>>2646947
I ordered the P1P before I returned my NP3. Took an L on money, but now I'm literally successfully printing while doing other things instead of fiddling with the thing all day. Fuck China so much, but I have a massive backlog and I'm getting shit done finally.

>>2644365
My abhorrent sin is I use Blender for CAD work

>>2646952
>>2646940
>Closest store to me that carries filament is a MicroCenter about 300 miles away.

>>2646929
I have a hobby shop a small walk away that stocks filament but never go there because of the markup. If I order online and wait a day I get it for almost half the price. Local retail isn't viable anymore.

>>2646956
I read that the first time anon. I was talking abouta radioshack alternative and this section of the store specifically, not a store that carries filament.

>>2646960
>almost half

Yeah I also forgot you Americhads always get deals on literally everything 24/7. I'm used to prices being normal everywhere here. Local store is like 1-2 bucks more expensive per roll. Online store orders alone are 10-15 bucks for shipping if it happens to not be free on a rare occasion.

>>2646967
>forgot image

I wish I had this. I need to make an online order for one shitty capacitor, one little resistor, and a basicass on/off switch. That's less than 2 bucks total.

>>2646967
I'm old enough to have bought components from Radioshack. It was nice to be able to walk in and buy one of this or that but the markup was easily 400-4000% of Mouser/Digikey. Also not getting literally hounded by people trying to sell me a cellphone plan is a big plus.

Don't you have any old broken electronics you can steal those components from? Every eet tinker needs a box of old PCB donor boards.

So it's basically impossible to run a P1P on a local network with no internet since the slicer will not see the printer if you are not logged into your bambu account. Even if you are, you can't pair the printer to your account if the network has no internet access. This only tells me that the whole LAN only option is just to give you an illusion that you have a choice because if your LAN has no internet access you can't network the printer.

I'll just use it with an SD card from now on. The only downside is that the camera is basically useless. Does anyone know if I can rip it out of the printer and run it into my pc (the printer is right next to my pc) to create my own timelapses?

>>2646997
Don't have a P1P but judging by the ribbon cable the camera connects with the answer will be no or at best, not easily.

>>2646952
My Neo works fine, I just want something that prints faster

>>2647002
fucking chinks i hope they die painfully

>>2647006
i unironically believe they could be selling each unit at no profit or a small loss and planning the profit from data mining

>>2646991
I probably do but I don't feel like it really. Last time I tried to steal something from a really old AMD motherboard desoldering it was a fucking nightmare.

>>2646997
I registered and paired my printer and shit, then ran orca slicer to see if it works, then I backed up (only) the plugins folder in my appdata>roaming bambu folder, uninstalled bambu slicer, put the folder back in while recreating the same path, set the printer to LAN mode, connected it with the code in Orca (without logging into my account in the slicer), and I'm operating it via WIFI and the camera works. Basically what's needed for the camera is this dll file, as evident from the error you get if bambu slicer is fully uninstalled. I'm probably not really winning as much as I think I am, but I'm only using orca slicer, my camera works, and I'm not logged into my account. I'd be ok with using it with the SD card but fuck that gayass screen.

>>2647007
100%. The printer costs like 600 bucks and literally just works and is super fast. It has absolutely zero competition.

>>2647008
now try unplugging the WAN cable from your router and try to operate it via wifi and you'll see that you wont be able to. What this means is, regardless if it's in LAN only or not it knows when you have no internet access and will not operate without it so the whole LAN only crap is only so you think that you're safe

>>2647009
apart from the K1 but they profit from the ads on their stupid app and probably also the data mining, i fucking hate the chinese i wish the worst industrial accidents upon them

>>2647010
Wait what? I did that to see it for myself. I was sure you're right, but I got stopped by orca slicer itself. I got a bunch of errors on start up and it shuts down. Orca can't work without an internet connection the fuck? Or is the bambu dll a literal virus that's preventing it? Orca doesn't automatically connect to the printer either, I have to tell it to.

>>2646938
heck if I know, I doubt it.

surely better than an obvious fault line in it like you have. Also you should fix that somehow. Slower speeds at begin/end? is it under/over-extruding there?

someone else must know surely.

>>2647012
Yeah I was about to buy Prusa, but the lead time killed me. Had to settle for the C1C.

>>2647015
A fault? I thought that was normal. The printer doesn't just go around circles with a shape like that until all layers are finished, right? It might be that thing where it lifts off for a bit and goes back to printing again. Forgot what it was called. Supposed to help with stringing or something.

>>2646948
we have mcmaster, it's 10x better.

it's expensive though, ridiculously fast shipping most times.

>>2646997
doesn't the Orca slicer's bambu plugin work though?

>>2647014
I'm not sure, I had no issues opening Orca however whenever I had the WAN disconnected or if I was logged out of my account the printer wouldn't show up under devices. I deleted all orca related files and I'm extracting it again and I'm not downloading the Bambu network extension so I can stay as far away from their cloud

Orca slicer has it's own Bambu plugin DLL, it should work unless the printer it's self is fucking you, in which case, most likely scenario is replacing some electronics board with one that has your own software afaik.

>>2647019
It does if you have WAN access on your network or if you're logged into your bambu account which I don't want to do

>>2647021
and at that point, just buy a knock-off of the Bambu in a few months. They will probably be everywhere.

>>2647023
They won't be everywhere if this >>2647007 is their business plan because if the knock offs are open source they can't data mine you

>>2647021
It connects to the printer but the camera doesn't work. It pompts you to install the dll but the camera doesn't work if you don't have the bambu plugins folder.

what's the best method (and cheapest) to make your prints food safe? I know the usual go to method is using epoxy resin, but is there like spray on sealants available, so my neighbors don't think I'm mixing explosives on my balcony?

Can you guys run Orca with your ethernet cable disconnected?

I would advise anyone to use the SD card and be completely offline until we can get 100% guaranteed way to bypass bambu's cloud, watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecq_WxRV0ro they can let your government fuck you in the ass if you print something that they don't like as well as do a bunch of other shit that they shouldn't be doing. this stuff is probably illegal in Europe too since you need to be able to request to view all the data they have on you

Sooner or later some nerd will find a way to fuck their scheme and only then am I gonna use it wirelessly

>>2647030
olympic levels of cope

>>2647030
Isn't it kinda easy to monitor traffic through your router to see what's being sent from your printer and when? Even if it's encrypted you can see where it's going and how large it is. If it's large enough to be entire gcode files (or short bursts of gcode files split up) then yeah you're best going offline for legal reasons. Otherwise I can't see an issue, unless it has AI recognition for firearm like prints. Maybe anything with a certain caliber-matching internal diameter.

>>2647042
I'm retarded and also I don't want to be paranoid all the time about what it's sending so I'm just going to be using the SD card for now. Not getting any firmware updates either.

On another note, I'm considering getting an AMS, does it need to be operated wirelessly or can you slice AMS projects on an SD card?

>>2647030
>Sooner or later some nerd will find a way to fuck their scheme and only then am I gonna use it wirelessly

It's been enough months and nobody has done anything about it. I can't even find it being discussed. Also why is the Prusa 4 on a literal two month lead time lmao? What a disaster. I was gonna buy that instead.

>>2647046
What's the point of the AMS anyways? Seems like a gimmick that will only bring issues to me.

>>2647050
I personally want the AMS just because I can have 4 materials that I can change easily and also it's a dehumidifier box too, I don't care about the multi color prints

Maybe the Prusa 5 will be a Bambu clone without the gay shit and I can switch then.

>>2646807
make the Lebois SRT or youre a cuck

>>2647058
That's literally why I bought the printer for in the first place and the RHD version is out as of today. I'm just waiting on my faggotass eSUN filament to arrive so I can start printing. In the meantime I have to figure out how to edit the body stl to change the SRT lettering to something else.

>>2647007
>>2647009
If you actually have a Bambu and really look into it there is not enough hardware to really justify it's price.
The P1P may be the really low margin unit but the X1 certainly isn't.

All Bambu did was combine two unthinkable things, mass produce a cutting-edge printer and tune it.
Only Prusas are really tuned well out the factory and Prusa isn't really interested in mass manufacturing so even their crappy bedslingers stay expensive. Then you have Vorons which may be cutting edge but building and tuning is left to the user and varies based on the user's skill.

Bambu's only seems magical and a good deal because the 3d printing community is full of ideologues that haven't figured out that maybe it would be cool to have a good printer that also includes a good user experience..

>>2647017
yeah the seams on most prints aren't that obvious

>>2647062
based

>>2647030
easiest way would be if we can modify the software running on the device, not sure if that's possible.

Do we have open source 3d printer firmware somewhere? Surely we have some built using arduinos or something.

>>2647066
I got the P1P because of the printing speed to cost ratio, what else can match the speed at that price? I got it on sale for 650 EUR. I don't care about the other crap

>>2647069
You're not allowed to call me based. I'm him.

worst part of my PCTPE print settings is the amount that leaks out of the nozzle after retraction

how the heck do I fix this?!

>>2647077
going to try lowering extruder temp, after some googling

>>2647071
I'm not saying get something else
I'm just saying Bambu seems like a really good deal on the surface because no one has bothered to do what they have done.

The P1P is the best value printer as of this moment but someone could take their lunch really quickly if they desired to.

>>2647079
>tfw creality tried with the K1
>tfw they fell on their fucking face
pottery

>>2647079
and I'm saying that this will be hard to do if Bambu are profitting from the data mining instead of the printers, because whoever "takes their lunch" will have to be selling at a loss without making a profit from data mining

>>2647079
If Prusa doesn't take their lunch he's a faggot and I wont even buy his filament.

>>2647083
just now finding out that the egomaniac that forces his employees to wear t-shirts that worship him is a faggot
>ngmi

>>2647082
they will have an expanded market of people printing for companies that require confidentiality, like someone printing parts for Xometry and/or ITAR/mil.

>>2647084
I mean I obviously had no way of knowing that unless you were to tell me in advance, so that's your fault really.

>>2647089
so then it wouldn't be the best value would it? since it would be more expensive and people will just be willing to pay more for the security reasons. And for that reason I believe that some nerds somewhere will hack their shit and exploit their cheap scheme to bypass their datamining gig and still have a great secure machine, until then I'm printing on an SD card

>>2647091
you're right, desu you don't even need a 3d printer, just tell me what you need and I will print and sell to you to a very cheap price, you don't need to check even

>>2647082
>and I'm saying that this will be hard to do if Bambu are profitting from the data mining instead of the printers
You assume that because you've been mind fucked to believe the hardware and software in Bambus is something special.
It really, really isn't.

There just have been zero companies willing to make a high performance CoreXY, tune it and ship it to consumers.

Crack open a Bambu and you'll find an AC powered PCB bed, loudass fans, single z motor and the most shitty SoC they could find to run the X1 AND P1P's interface.

>>2647096
okay and even if I was willing to build a package that is at least on par or better than the P1P in every single aspect (no compromises anywhere), would it be cheaper and what package is that? I don't mind building stuff but any corexy I see is like twice the P1P

>>2647093
hacking a machine to work is retarded, no one will do that and have confidence that it's secure.

>>2647102
although I'm retarded even I can cut the internet access to the whole ecosystem, the problem is that it doesn't work. So if it works after the internet access has been cut off why wouldn't you be confident? it's obvious that it works and it's very easy to check if it's accessing the internet

ah-ha!

got one, phone case in pctpe... now for strength testing (layer adhesion)

>>2647104
it's definitely better than before

before, the vertical layers would break apart much easier--this is stronger, but I still heard a crack when I twisted it.

>>2647094
A pair of black matte PLA tits on a torso to mount on my wall as an aesthetic piece. You can't tell me this wouldn't look sick. Imagine it including the collar bone and rib cage outline. And I know you motherfuckers in here will steal my original donut steel idea. Just make sure you to remember who put you on when you make yours.

>>2647110
And also don't forget the arm pit details.

>>2647110
oh that reminds me, I printed one of those in PET-CF

>>2647107
only part that was brittle was the part what lifted up off the build plate

going to mix my elmers glue and water mixture a bit thicker and go again--with a slightly lower print temp

>>2647113
This looks good. The collar bones are covered but it looks like it has armpit and abs/ribcage details. Tits are also correctly pointing in opposite direction and are not as full at the top. I need to figure out where to get something like this and to slice it. Probably gotta split it in half and do two prints to glue together later too.

>>2647116
I got it on cults3d it's a free model.

They also sell paid models, and they have an adult section which has a bunch of boring shit in it.

>>2647128
I'm not paying for tits.

>>2647131
yeah me neither

:D it's working.

less globs and strings at 232c nozzle temp instead of 240

oh yeah....

Did I forget to mention that mcmaster provides 3d models for a lot of the parts on there? It's so you can insert them in cad/cam models and build assemblies based on shit you buy from them.

>>2647144
I forgot about that
Although I think the last time I tried it with bolts, the M10 bolts I printed wouldn't thread into the m10 nut

If you want to get lynched you can still make some electrical boxes.

good deal? would be my first resin printer

>>2647137
well.. it's better...

definitely better layer adhesion

>>2647178
I somewhat think it can't print the same angle without support that stiffer filaments can

>>2647164
Good printer, much bigger and faster than what we were getting at that price just a couple years ago. Wash and cure is nice to have, price is fine. Do it.

>>2647193
oh boy oh boy cant wait to start from square one all over again, hope this shit is worth it

>>2647211
Resin printing is fast and easy, far simpler and easier than FDM printing.

>>2647235
lmao

>>2647235
this man has huffed too much resin.

Say I wanted to get some 3D printable Samurai Armor commissioned, like to wear, where would you lads go to find someone who isn't going to charge you a shit ton and deliver a garbage product.

>>2647308
the sheer volume of material is going to be what makes it cost an arm and a leg.
Honestly, if you want a plastic set of samurai armor, there's much better ways to go about it than a 3d print.
print the helmet, then pay someone to cut the various bands out with a cnc machine or a cricuit or something, and use a heat gun to give it a bit of a curve.

Samurai armor is probably one of the least practical armors to print.

>>2647346
Nah I just want to say “yeah I 3D printed this.”

>>2647308
him >>2647094

>>2646938
>Any downsides to setting it to random?
There's a little scar where the outer perimeter starts and stops. Setting it to random causes them to be distributed over the surface of the print, making the surface visually uneven. Mechanically better than aligned, so preferable for utilitarian prints, but for good-looking models it's usually preferable to put the scars somewhere out of the way.

>>2647050
>Also why is the Prusa 4 on a literal two month lead time lmao?
Because lots of people want to buy it.

white noise generator works great

>>2647376
In addition to this, depending on the model, you might experience more frequent and longer travel moves to accommodate the seam position.

>>2643977
This is maybe a long shot but does anyone have some experience with clay printing?

>>2647346
Not sure about burger prices, but if you buy bottom shelf ABS for let's say 15€/kg, and you need 10kg (remember 3dp can make models hollow - CNC can't) its still only 150€ not including power and labour.
Doubt I could get materials for a CNC commission below that price.
Also, if you rely on heat for the shape, there's a high probability of the models turning out worse than if printed. At least if anon has no skill with arts&crafts like myself.

Are ya printin bros?

>>2647494
no, not really.

got my phone in PCTPE printed the other day tho.

Doing lunch before leaving work to go volunteer at a project CURE packing place.

>>2647496
phone case*

>>2647388
what filament?

looks like a good job for PET-CF, which would be more brittle than PAHT-CF, but would want to warp less during printing and still be decently durable.

>>2647496
Never heard of pctpe. Is it nice? Better than a case from the store?

>>2647505
It's a Nylon and TPE "rubber" blend, and it's pretty phenomenal stuff. Extremely flexible, impressively strong, great layer adhesion when printed correctly, prints at lower temps than most Nylon filament (though you still want an enclosure to avoid issues with warping), it's a great functional material. In my mind, a phone case is a perfect use for PCTPE.

I'm going to check on my print bros let's see what happened

>>2647551
>it didn't shit itself

>>2647494
printing myself a flask of copium as there still isn't any raspberry units in stock and I've had cases ready to print since over a year ago...

>>2647556
I've completely given up on pi's. It's been literal years and they've not figured out their shit and the solution is always right around the corner.

>>2647564
Nothing to figure out, they're making money hand-over-fist and are perfectly content with the situation.

>>2647556
I got a bigtreetech pi for Klipper but I returned the NP3 I got it for within two weeks. Now it's sitting in it's box being useless because the only thing it can do is Klipper.

>>2647601
Klipper, the Okay guy meme of firmwares.

>>2647608
Klipper was great for me. I just needed a printer that works.

I have a printer on the way but I've never dealt with printing before.
I'm already competent with Blender, is learning CAD necessary or can I print what I already know how to make?

>>2647615
Usually slicers will yell at you if they don't like what you made. Usually the problems are when you have open holes in the print

>>2647546
>>2647505
It's recommended for wearable items like shoe soles and watch bands and stuff because you can apply acid based anti-fungals to it.

If you keep the chamber warm (little no cooling fan while printing either!), the layer adhesion is fantastic too.

I can literally ball up the phone case I printed and it will just spring back into shape. It basically defeats the brittleness problem of most printable filaments.

One guy on youtube used it for an AR lower, with some steel rod inserts to keep things stiff. It's basically indestructible if you print it right, is the benefit.

Does anyone have experience in making continuously adjustable rails/similar? Looking to make one of the gimbal arms adjustable for calibration

how do i get filament cost and weight to show up in the sliced info section in prusa slicer? i already put in the necessary information in the filament configuration but i cant seem to find an option to enable it in sliced info

I need to replace my hot end because all of my components are failing.

If I don't ever plan on printing anything but PLA do
I need a fancy "spider" hotend for any reason? Or are the cheapo ones sufficient?.