/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2617869
>anything in vase mode will kick the shitter roughly 1/3 of the way through.
What slicer are you using?
Got some gcode to look at? Grab whatever's on the SD card if possible rather than slicing something fresh.
Do you use relative or absolute extrusions? Volumetric extrusions?

It's not weird to have stutters/pauses/blobs in vase mode if you have a printer with Power Loss Recovery, one of Creality's original claims to fame.
Adding a M413 S0 to disable PLR at the start of a vase mode print is common practice if you have PLR.
This isn't what your problem sounds like to me, but I'd be a dick not to mention it.

>>2617873
my dad asked me to print him some thing that broke and when i told him i cant do that because i cant do CAD he asked if i cant just take a picture of the part to scan it in. dead ass.
i know he probably thought of that LiDAR camera on iphones but thats at best an approximation and not a magic 3D scanner

What do people here recommend for a large printer? I have a second-hand MK3s that's serving well but I'd love to have a second machine and especially one that won't have me needing to chop up files.
Recommendations I've gotten so far are the anycubic kobra max and the bambu lab x1 carbon
Ideally looking for something that can handle PETG without hassle out of the box

>>2617883
That's exactly it, it never stops.

>>2617886
What's large, and what's your budget?
Kobra Max and Neptune 3 Max are both popular large options right now.
The Neptune 3 Max is the better printer in my opinion, Elegoo puts more effort and more QC into their FDM machines than a lot of other Chinese printer brands.
Both are excellent for the price currently, easy to recommend, their competitors are either trash (X5SA-500), horrifically overpriced (CR-M4), or imaginary (Prusa XL).

The X1 carbon is a great printer but someone recommending that to you in this case is fucking stupid.
MK3S bed is 250x210, the X1C bed is 256x256. That's not an upgrade, especially for the price.

Just about any printer can handle PETG out of the box, there's nothing special about PETG.
Avoid PTFE-lined hotends, but that's just true in general now, there's no excuse for lined hotends anymore when all-metal ones are cheap as fuck and pay for themselves immediately in lack of neurotoxic fumes.
If you get any printer with a PTFE lined hotend, at least spend the $3-$5 for a Chinese all-metal heatbreak for it, it's the bare minimum upgrade and it's extremely worth it.

I'm doing a mainboard swap of my AnyCubic Kobra, and the board, motors, and other shit has basically no markings. I'm slowly continuity testing the retard harness for the extruder head, but what concerns me is the stepper connections. Will it fuck anything up if I order them wrong, and is there a way to probe them out to find the right order?

>>2617904
Well you shouldn't be able to reverse or flip anything if you're not remaking connectors, so the only "risk" is plugging a stepper into the wrong place which is totally harmless. (Unless you've got an OLD board with 6-pin PH connectors)

Mark your shit. It's already in order as it's plugged in. Heatshrink, tape, Sharpie, you can print little tags that attach by pulling a pin from a connector and running the wire through it, lots of options. Mark your shit before it comes apart.

If you are remaking wires and have to crimp connectors and shit, then just don't fear it, shit's "almost" standardized. Biggest problem you'll have unless you're a COMPLETE retard is having poles out, it's normal, it happens, it means moving pins around to match the arrangement at the stepper motor. It's harmless, your motors make funny noises and don't behave as expected, you swap some wires around until it's fixed, easy peasy. Make 'N' Print has a good article covering all of this: https://www.makenprint.uk/3d-printing/3d-printing-guides/3d-printer-troubleshooting/stepper-motor-wiring/

>>2617899
budget obviously could go up to 1500 for the bambu but something around the price of the kobra max would be more ideal
I know nothing about elegoo's FDM machines but I do love both SLA printers I have from them, what makes you recommend it over the kobra?
I also didn't realize the carbon's build volume was that limited, I was under the impression from the few quick reviews I watched that it was comparable to the kobra/ender 5 plus/prusa XL for size. I was also turned off by it sounding like the apple of printers with its forced proprietary software and hardware limitations

>>2617908
That's just it. The connections are completely idiotic. The plugs on the motors are 6 wide, but with 4 wires, and the plugs on the board have 7 pins. It's completely nonsensical. I also can't seem to find any model number or datasheet for the motors.

>>2617917
Anycubic is fine, they've made their name mostly by offering cheaper alternatives to Creality's offerings, and are generally compared to Creality as far as quality control is concerned.

This is a market where people have sort of accepted that many companies still ship printers with extruders that are guaranteed to break, hotends that are PTFE lined like it's 2013, tinned wires in screw terminals that will burn your house down, and hotbed wires with little-to-no strain relief.
Elegoo is known to stand out in regards to quality control, their machines are often better thought-out and better put together than similarly priced offerings from other Chinese companies. The differences are little, mostly, but they make a consistent point of addressing little niggles (and some not so little) that many other companies are guilty of.

Kobra Max at $500, Neptune 3 Max at $470.
The Neptune 3 Max has thicker stabilizer braces, comes with a magnetic PEI-coated steel build sheet, the touchscreen is removable and can be held in the hand, dual-gear direct drive extruder as opposed to the Kobra's bowden, 4-wheel hotend carriage instead of the usual 3 for a little more stability, single-knob belt adjustments instead of balancing double y-belt tensioners, synchronized z-axis instead of dual z motors so you don't have to worry about the gantry tilting, LED light bar built in.

They're totally comparable, but for a little but less money, the Neptune 3 Max is a "little" better in a LOT of ways.

Probably going to be a no since most people here are doing more practical prints

Any cosplayfags have pictures of raw prints done with a .6 or .8mm nozzle? I want to do something soi wars and am curious to see how detail holds up and much more post-processing it would be compared to my .4mm I've been using

I found this one video but the guy never gives great views of anything and he doesn't even seem to rinse down the print between grits https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2MT2ZedtnM

>>2617924
Gotcha
If the elegoo's got better QA and the kobra's on par with creality that's probably going to be the selling point for me, I've listened to my buddy who I got the mk3 from gripe about all the troubleshooting he's had to do with his ender 5 for years now

>>2617926
There are plenty of comparison videos discussing nozzle sizes, especially with Arachne slicing.
Tommy Sandyvag did a half-assed one where he weighed the option of replacing 0.4mm nozzles with 0.6mm and the addition of Arachne.

How do I handle my extruder's guide wheel not turning regularly? I already upgraded it to the full metal creality option but even at a 92 step setting it will get bound up while the gear continues to turn without issue, until the resistance from the wheel not moving doesn't let the filament move through and the gear starts chewing into it
I've tried tightening and loosening the hex screw holding the wheel in place with no noticeable changes and the extruder's stepper wires are all fine as far as I can see

>>2617908
Thanks for the link, by the way. That's far more info than I've managed to find before coming here. I'm sure it'll aid my project a great deal!

>>2617946
Are you having skips running JUST through the extruder gears? Like you aren't trying to print anything, it isn't going to the nozzle, and you're just going through the gears?
Or are you trying to push filament through your nozzle and its skipping

>>2617946
Idler extruders suck, even the "good" ones like the Titan fucking suck.
Adjust your tension, you can get effects like this from too much or too little tension, either can cause these same symptoms.

Ideally, get a dual-gear extruder. The standard Chinese "Metal Dual Gear" extruders are fine, BMG clones are just as cheap but less robust, the LGX is great, the Mellow Cannon is great, the Orbiter is great, there are plenty of DIY extruders that use BMG or other Bondtech gearsets.

>>2617958
it feeds through the bowden and nozzle fine when I tell it to do it manually but will click and skip when printing, even with my PETG printing at 20mm/s

>>2617965
Are you absolutely certain you are printing at a proper temperature for it? If its skipping when printing then it sounds like it just isn't flowing through the nozzle.

>>2617968
I've been printing at this temperature for over a year without this issue, it flows and adheres fine when the wheel is turning

>>2617969
What filament exactly and what temperature are you using for your nozzle and your bed.
Also standard brass nozzle or hardened steel or what

>>2617970
polymaker PETG printing at 245c on a micro swiss all metal hot end with hardened steel nozzle

>>2617883
>because i cant do CAD
wow. much retard.

>>2617886
voron if you want to print and build it
p1p if you don't

>>2617978

>>2617972
Alright I admit that you're printing at roughly the right area, but I would try bringing it up to 255 C. The extruder skipping just sounds like it isn't able to push the filament through enough causing tension to build up until the gear just skips to alleviate the pressure

>>2617979
He is OBJECTIVELY correct. Every other answer is someone being a retard shilling for their shittier printer

>>2617987
He recommended two small printers to someone looking for a large one.

>>2617993
>voron
>small
Tell me you don't know what a voron is without telling me you don't know what a voron is

>>2617997
350mm max, so 100mm smaller than anything the guy was looking at.
Try harder, faggot.

>>2617997
>Kobra Max 72L volume
>Neptune 3 Max 79.38L volume
>Voron 2.4 350 42.88L volume

Oh yeah, so comparable, wow.

>>2617999
>>2618005
>max
>voron
So you don't know what youre talking about
>b-but the parts kits are only 350!
yes retard part kits
BUILD one

I'm looking to get into PETG after messing around with a bunch of PLA and PLA+ and Pro variants and wanna try PETG for a change. I use a glass bed and IIRC PETG will stick way too hard to glass, would glue stick rubbed on glass work?

>>2618006
Exceed the size the designers tell you not to exceed, the size at which performance is already noticeably degraded compared to smaller ones?
People build bigger ones, they build them with modified designs out of bigger extrusions because the design isn't meant to scale that large.

A custom oversized Voron is hardly an "out of the box" solution to anything.

I love 'em, but it's still a shit recommendation for someone looking for a larger printer that doesn't come with headaches.

>>2618013
>large printer
>no headaches
pick one

>>2618009
Glue stick will definitely help, but it's no guarantee. Only print with the bed as hot as it needs to be, start low and only increase it as required until prints adhere adequately.
I've had great success with PETG on glass, shitloads of it, but I've also chipped some glass beds with it along the way with and without gluestick or hairspray. It's never going to be the right choice in my opinion.
The flexible magnetic PEI coated sheets work great for PETG if you remember to hit it with gluestick and don't try to remove prints until the bed has cooled. With the magnetic sheets, you can easily remove it from the bed with the print still attached and it'll cool down quickly.


>>2618016
Can't argue with that.

>>2618019
>The flexible magnetic PEI coated sheets work great for PETG if you remember to hit it with gluestick and don't try to remove prints until the bed has cooled. With the magnetic sheets, you can easily remove it from the bed with the print still attached and it'll cool down quickly.
NTA, can PETG be printed on a bare (no glue) PEI coated sheet or will it weld to it?

>>2617886
also, retarded size and shill discussion aside, even my monoprice mini delta prints PETG out of the box. is there a modern printer that when stock actually struggles with PETG?

>>2618037
ender 5 plus entirely because of the garbage glass plate

>What slicer should I use?
>For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for P1P/X1 owners.
>For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
>For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl
And for resin its basically chitu or lychee right? No other choice really if im using a phrozen printer? Im suprised that resin printers have so little choice in sliceer

>>2618033
I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to, I always see it recommended to use gluestick or hairspray when printing PETG on a PEI coated sheet, but I don't actually know.

>>2618037
Anything with a PTFE lined hotend. They can handle "some" PETG printing, but plenty of PETG likes higher temps, even 245C is too much for a shitty teflon lined hotend to handle for long without pumping out hydrofluoric acid and perfluoroisobutene and giving you a pulmonary edema.

>>2618046
PrusaSlicer, Chitu, Lychee.
You should also have UV Tools in addition to anything else, it's indispensable, there is nothing else like it for resin printers. You can use it to inspect prints for problems that Chitu and Lychee often miss, make adjustments, fine tune things down to individual pixels, it's the only tool of its kind and it is fucking great. It's also the key to doing fun unnecessary shit with a resin printer, like etching PCBs, adding silkscreens to PCBs, fabrics, and other prints, doing funny things with your fingernails, or making high quality lithophanes.

>>2618054
>PrusaSlicer
Can it do the whole process? I thought something had to be done in chitu if you use prusa. Plus they annoyingly sont have profiles for phrozen.
Will get uvtools as well.

man i wish resin printing was as easy as filament.

>>2618062
Resin printing is easy peasy. Once you get your process down, your ability to vomit out large quantities of highly detailed models quickly will far outweigh the effort required.
PrusaSlicer can do the whole process, for certain printers, not all. With UV Tools and some knowledge you can set it up as a post-processor and use PrusaSlicer for the entire process if you want. Don't really recommend it though, I prefer using Lychee to slice and UV Tools for absolutely everything else, even the antialiasing I don't bother with what the slicers have built in anymore, much more control doing it myself with UV Tools.

>>2618066
May i ask why you use lychee over chitu?

>>2618072
No specific reason anymore, at one time it was more stable when I was having trouble with Chitu crashing, and I don't like the lack of auto orientation. They're a lot more comparable than they once were, and both are disappointing and crippled compared to their paid versions. Generally speaking, Chitu and Lychee are pretty sad, and pretty shit.

PrusaSlicer doesn't have very mature resin printing features, but it works, it's free and not intentionally crippled, and it's actively worked on, it's what I'm going to transition to using.

New thread, I'll ask again for the daytime boys. Trying to fix these missing chunks of ABS fairing. Any ideas, /diy/?
>>2617665
>I mean, have you called them?
For what, a 3D model of the fairing? I know they are pretty much the only manufacturer of aftermarket EX500R fairings. They are fiberglass however, as opposed to the OEM ABS. Cowl pieces is 200$ w/o shipping
>>2617681
>clay or putty form
This is a really good idea. I'd need to make it a bit bulkier and rougher than the actual needed pieces to make room for sanding etc. Alternatively I could just use the clay model as a mold for the ABS slurry method I discussed. Good ideas Anon.
>>2617686
>Honestly I'd just fibreglass them back on directly. CFRP even.
I have zero idea how I would accomplish that at all.
>>2617776
>The differences is just the ratio mixture of ABS and acetone.
Yea, that is most likely the method I am going to try. A popular fairing repair compound sold commercially is "plastifix" which is a solvent, essentially acetone, and powdered ABS.
>>2617871
>Unless you already know surfacing
Not even a little bit. But I've seen apps on peoples phones that can scan a surface and create a general model. Like I said it doesnt have to be just right, just close enough so I can sand it down and bond it.
>may as well just carbon fiber the original parts back on
You guys keep mentioning this, what the hell are you talking about?

Any anons here have a high-flow hotend, like Rapido HF, Nova, or similar? How good is the print quality of a longer, volcano-style nozzle vs. short nozzles? Especially for TPU.

>>2618009
I use Magigoo with PETG on glass, has never taken chunks out and always adheres really nice.

>>2617926
Unless you're going for ultra small stuff like figurines, you're not going to lose enough detail to care. The time savings on wearable stuff is going to be huge. Just do it.

>>2618100
if you paid me to CAD your shitty fairing, and I spent the same amount of time you've just spent shitposting, I would already charge you over $200 for it
>Not even a little bit.
you already drew the surfaces, your isolines just aren't going the right direction.
>>2618100
>what the hell are you talking about?
why does it even matter if you fix it? Is it stopping your windscreen from attaching to it?

>>2617986
I've got a print going for about 6 hours now without any skipping and the only thing changed was my lowering my retraction distance which makes no sense
had it at 5mm because that's where my stringing stopped and now back down to 1.5mm like what's recommended for the hot end
globbing and stringing like nothing else again but I'll take that over failing on the second layer

Good thing pot is legal in my state.

>>2618183
>$200
at that point I'd just buy a totally new one
>you already drew the surfaces, your isolines just aren't going the right direction.
I'm sure I could figure it out
>why does it even matter if you fix it? Is it stopping your windscreen from attaching to it?
The mount for the rearview mirrors are essentially part of the frame/dash bracket/headlamp bracket. The windscreen bolts to the fairing, which is held in place through the mirror, all of which underneath is essential for the mounting of the headlamp. The most structurally annoying place to be broken, the fairing, mirror and headlamp would be flapping all over the place and susceptible to wind/etc. Plus I just kinda wanna fix my bike up and make her pretty

>>2618125
TPU has a high risk of clogging from retractions on most high flow hotends, but you can work around that by tuning your retraction distance shorter than it should be and just tolerating a little extra spoo out of the nozzle during travel moves. As for volcano style nozzles, I've not used them, since I am getting more than adequate flow out of my Dragon HF.

>>2618197
>that joke

Honest anon, I just feel bad for your recent loss that is all.

>>2618046
UV Tools can actually install a Prusa Slicer profile for your printer.
After you export files from Prusa Slicer, you then open them in UV tools to convert to the right format, or you set it up as a post-processor to make that part automatic.

>just wasted 12 hours and most of a spool printing 2 parts
>stayed up late to fire part 3
>realize I used the wrong filament for the first two parts
fml

>>2618204
>the fairing, mirror and headlamp would be flapping all over the place and susceptible to wind/etc.
ok, it's all coming back to me now. I had an EX250 which was similar construction. there was a stamped steel plate insert for the side mirrors which rattles inside the flanged slot.
uhh... fugg D:D:D:
I removed the mirrors because the wiki said they were mostly useless and they were. They couldn't aim past the padded shoulders on my jacket. You were supposed to buy mirrors that went on the end of the handlebars. Your mirrors might be wider though.
As for the windshield... you know about duct tape? Don't put the duct tape. Attach the bottom screws and put some of dat dere on the sides. fuck it, idk.
>>2618204
>at that point I'd just buy a totally new one
That's exactly my point. If you want it to look nice, the best solution is just to buy the $200 one. Actually, that's not expensive at all.
If you have time and money to burn, there's ten million car modding fucks on the youtubes:
>how i into carbon fibre bumperz?////
search 9gag r/carbonf iber
you could even 3d print the initial mold
>mfw I'm in the 3d piggu disgustingu general
what the FUCK r u even doing here?

>bought a N3P a month ago
>elegoo teasing new printers now
>tfw they dropped support for the N3 when the N3P was released
Really worried they're gonna drop the N3P as well

>>2618204
you're not going to cosmetically fix the bike and have it support the mirrors. you need to support the mirrors and attach the cosmetic fix to that and the windscreen bolt(s).

as far as design take your best guess print in PLA at .26mm hold it up and tweak the design. repeat until you have the part then print in PETG at .10mm. remember to design it to fit whatever nigger rigged crap stack you use to hang your mirrors.

>>2618266
>wake up and the fucker errored 1% in:
>you're using the wrong plate for that filament because we changed our fucking minds which side you should use but didn't send you a new plate so the fucking printer won't move forward with the print
now I'm actually frustrated.

>>2618187
AHH NO IT MAKES SENSE SORRY!
So you have a microswiss all metal hot end. I should have realized it when you said that.
SO basically whats happening is this:
When you manually feed the filament through the nozzle, the extruder goes "la la forward forward forward" and the entire hotend assembly is working correctly heating it all up. Thats why it works fine when manually feeding
BUT when you start printing RETRACTION happens. The all metal hotend has a much larger heating area the allows heat creep up the entire hotend. Normally this isn't a problem as it isn't gloopified enough to matter, but when you're pulling the already liquid filament up and down it allows a VERY large region of the filament to be heated and liquified.
So you're basically pushing solid filament into ever so slightly goop filament that is just heated enough to allow compression. Then it rertracts pulling it way out so it instantly cools basically creating a jam

tldr: all metal hotends require FAR less retraction due to heating system. You've been creating jams out of partially liquid filament in the hotend

>>2618429
Also I want to add, you say that the 5mm retraction was the recommended retraction but I assume that was what it is with a default nozzle system. You've since changed to the all metal and haven't done a retraction calibration as well I assume
Even with a bowden system, the all metal hotends can have WAY lower retraction. My CR-6 SE went from 6mm down to 1.1mm just by swapping to the microswiss. I highly highly recommend doing another retraction calibration now

biggest print yet, pray for me bros

>>2618480
just barely fit on build plate to print in one piece

>>2618481
It may fit on the plate, but does it fit on your head

>>2618483
eh, probably not, but we'll see! just wanted to print something big, this will end up going to a kid

>>2618480
>>2618481
shiny. don't sweat it you're not using AMS and the print started, very little could go wront at this point.

>>2618503
Hey now, that's the wrong attitude to have here.
>>2618480
You're recording right? Want to catch that moment 31 hours in when the fan shroud gets knocked off the print head.

>>2618506
>when the fan shroud gets knocked off
luckily the bambu has an error condition for this and printing can be easily resumed. yeah that's right this shit happened so much they built a condition for it into the machine. anon is fine and doesn't need any bad juju from us.

>>2617880
Im using Cura. Never had a problem with it otherwise. I have heard of the PLR problem but didn't know you could disable it in the gcode. Ill see if I can upload my code when I get home.

The hits just keep coming. Just got a shipping notice for filament I needed yesterday: "Handed to receptionist". No truck, no package. MFer dumped my package on a random fucking business and I don't even have the picture.

>>2618506
>You're recording right? Want to catch that moment 31 hours in when the fan shroud gets knocked off the print head.
yes, will post the webm when it happens. haven't experienced that yet though

>>2617917
elegoo is really well built. i have a neptune 2 and the damn thing just works and works well out of the box. i had a V1 CR-10 before it and i have had none of the problems that thing had.

just get a metal extruder upgrade and a removable flexplate.

Do rafts improve adhesion? I changed filaments mid print so the bed cooled down a little bit (from 60 down to 50) which could have caused this failure as well

>>2618566
brims>rafts and your fault for letting it cool one of the reasons i dont like doing multiple objects one little fail generally ruins the whole plate, prusa slicer has a one object at a time mode

>>2618566
>rafts

Anon, let me tell you something. If you do a raft, set a pause gcode for the layer after it finishes the raft, which should be pausing the layer when the model starts, apply gluestick all over the raft. Makes it much easier to remove.

I don't use rafts, but I did test this on pic related, and as you can see it came off one piece.

>>2618576
assuming theres enough clearance between the x gantry and the extruder head itself, or just keep an eye on it and let it bump/knock them off saw an episode of ben heck where he made an actuator arm to knock off prints and just print the same object allday

>>2618580
thats pretty smooth ngl

>>2618549
Call every business and ask if they received 3D printer stuff.
Check the zip codes for your location; my city has 3 zip codes for some stupid reason and sometimes somebody uses the wrong zip code and stuff gets sent to the other side of the city.

>>2618576
>your fault for letting it cool
Its my first time doing a filament change so it thought it wouldn't be an issue. I guess I should have kept the bed heated
>>2618580
That looks good. Last time I did a multi part on a raft I was cutting and filing the raft off for hours

>>2618588
>That looks good. Last time I did a multi part on a raft I was cutting and filing the raft off for hours

Jesus christ tell me about it, I was trying out vertical spool drawer and I did a raft on the spool holder thingy and for fuck sakes I hated rafts since then.

Also this works on supports as well, I tried it on cross tweezers, I turned off the z offset for support gap and pic related it came out pretty clean.

I will say it would get tiredsome adding bunch of pauses to apply glue. I normally would do this if all the supports finish at the same layer height.

>>2618580
that's pretty smart. I've tried it on supports, but never thought to on a raft. but then again, I don't normally have first layer issues unless I just need to clean my plate.

>>2618580
You can also use Sharpie or other permanent marker for the same effect! I've used it as a release agent of sorts for supports before.

Alright, what do I do when the gantry on my dual z axis printer gets crooked? Best idea I've got short of disassembling it is to just crash it against one of the limits until it evens out.

>>2618752
I assume you have two Z motors? If so you should be able to manually turn, with the printer off, one of the Z screws to level it out, either with a square or against the top of the frame like you mentioned.

>>2618752

Which printer is it? I have a cr-10s pro with dual lead z screws, I took my old ender 3 controller board and used that to independently control my z screws while the main controller board runs the other motors. This is with klipper, and using multi MCU.

I assume you don't have an extra controller board or deal with that.

Reason for this is many things and creality quality control is shit. When the motors are disabled, any resistance on the z screw would cause a slight shift, and yes it can and has been enough to fuck up prints, theres a reason why this mod exist.

Z sync belt is what I initially used, toothed idler on each z screw with a belt, I tried to level gantry as much as possible with it binding, then trammed the bed to the gantry.

Here is a few printers that do this, and if you look at the ender 3 s1 pro its also running a belt at the top of the z screw.

>cr10s pro
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3387741

>ender 5
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5174679

>3D printed gun

>>2618752
>>2618757
>>2618794
Dual motor single driver is unironically worse than coupling the two Z screws with a belt. Why the fuck does everyone do it still?

>>2618874
It's cheap and easy and people delude themselves into thinking it'll be an improvement.
Single-synchronized, or dual with independent drivers, only options.

whaddyall niggas think bout dem new Prusa Mk4's

>>2618878

>>2618878
>Beardy man continues to troll his cult of retards, now selling the Prusa Ankermake M5 Mk4 for only $800-$1100.
Going on 7 weeks and still no input shaping, still can't actually print any faster with the new $800-$1100 bedslinger than you could with the old $800-$1100 bedslinger.
Quality printers, pricing worse than Apple, poorly managed company, sad that people still buy Jo's shit.

>>2618883
How reliable are the Bambu printers though? I'm interested in Prusas because they just werk™, and I can easily make repairs. Is it the same for Bambu?

>>2618887
Prusa's "Just Werk" as much as a Bambu or any other well made printer.
They're on a different level from shitcan parts-bin printers like Creality, Anycubic, Sovol, and 9 million other Chinese rebranded heaps of random printer parts.
I love cheap Chinese printers, but there's no comparing.
Prusa and Bambu both "Just Werk" and are both extremely reliable.

You can easily reprint parts for the MK4. The few printable parts. Why the fuck would you have to?
Well you should right out of the box reprint you entire fucking printer in an appropriate filament if you want to put it in an enclosure, because out of the box the warranty won't cover the printer operating at temperatures you can reach in *any* enclosure, and the printed parts will warp and fuck off.
The P1P can be enclosed without drama, it's designed to be enclosed easily and customized, the X1C is enclosed from the factory.

Complete P1P hotend, whole thing, $35 go buy it right now.
MK4 hotend, not available yet, MK3/S/+ $80
P1P extruder, $35.
MK4 extruder, not available yet, MK3/S/+ printable parts + $50 gearset
Bambu Double-Sided PEI Bed, $35

Prusa's aren't perfect, they just have a cult following, take a look at their forums any time.
If you want something to run with, there's a known design flaw with the MK4 and rapid revisions of the extruder have been made relating to not properly retaining bearings, lots of retarded reddit drama relating to it because the Prusa cult sure loves reddit.

>>2618896
>Bambu Double-Sided PEI Bed, $35
>Prusa Smooth Double-Sided PEI Bed, $35
don't mind me im retarded

>>2618896
Is the X1C belt or screw driven?

>>2618874
>Dual motor single driver is unironically worse than coupling the two Z screws with a belt. Why the fuck does everyone do it still?

Running z screw off of one motor driver is something companies do, the sync belt is just a cheap band aid.

Like I said in my previous comment >>2618794 here I reused my old ender 3 controller board to drive my two z screws independently so I don't need the belt anymore.

Though, I thought about using one of my SKR pico, make a harness for the ribbon cable on my cr10s pro.

>>2618887
>I'm interested in Prusas because they just werk™

So many printers just werk now that saying this about prusas doesn't mean anything now.

>my voron trident just werks
>my voron v0.1 just werks
>my kingroon kp3s just werks
>my kingroon kp3s pro just werks

the only printers thay didn't just werk (do now) were creality (shocker) ender 3, and cr10s pro that were bought two years ago, stop living in the past, cheap 3d printers have been surpassing prusas.

>>2618934
>sync belt is just a cheap band aid
If you add an adjustable idler mechanism, it should be possible to manually move one Z screw relative to the other. That or have a vernier slot coupling wheel with a couple of pins in it. I really like the idea of having two or even three or four independant Z motors to a printer, mainly for auto-levelling of the gantry relative to the bed. If you're not going to do that, I see no real advantage of independant motors over sync belts aside from less setup fiddling. Well I guess if you have a particularly heavy bed or fast bed moves in non-planar shit then having the extra (and more distributed) power could be handy.

>>2618938
>see no real advantage of independant motors over sync belts aside from less setup fiddling.

Who knows, belt setup was fine, I wanted to try out different setup. I mean I have 6 other printers, so fiddling with one while having five printers functional printers lets me experiment. Belted may be better.

Really wish the N3P didn't have such an xbox hueg head or whatever it's called, makes it really annoying to position a camera to see the first layer properly.

the fucking power went out last night. Huge storm rolled in around 3AM, and the power went out for a few seconds. Didn't resume perfectly, leaving this line in the print

>>2618989
sucks but at least it looks like a feature.

hydra mod for AMS in ABS

also fuck bambu for improving the AMS so current gen this is unnecessary

>>2618989
easy enough to bondo up

The ender 3 screams.
The money has been stashed away.
Time for a voron.

wanted to swap the stock ender 3 PSU for that meanwell PSU everyone seems to be using instead. its hard to find in stock, and those in stock are way more expensive in europistan than they are in america.
are there any other alternatives i could check out? i really just care about the noise.
also, other than swapping the stock motherboard/drivers, what else can i reasonably do to decrease the noise of my printer? the print head and part cooling fans seem to also contribute a lot of noise but from what ive seen, solutions look rather hacky, like printing some fuck huge shroud so you can mount those mini noctua fans on that are still way larger than the stock fans.
though i would be willing to look into that again if anyone can tell me if its actually worth it

>>2618483
yes, lol but no way would it fit with an actual visor on it, nose sticks out a bit, and i have to flex it to get it over my cheekbones

>>2619060
>are there any other alternatives i could check out? i really just care about the noise.

I would take a look at mornsun, I believe the screw holes are in the same location, but don't quote me, the only one I have is the one that came in this voron v0.2 bed / power supply combo I bought off of fabreeko

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/ac-dc-converters/133?s=N4IgjCBcoLQBxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIATAOwUCsIAugL6EwTQgqQY4HFmUa9ZqwAsiTmix5CJSOQCcYAGyiIhJaoqMmuoA

I believe any printable mods for meanwell would work with Mornsun as well.

modeled a bracket to hold a tyre gauge and use it as a bed probe, mainly it would be used outside of when prints are actually going, and removed when its printing.

>>2619108
y tho

Has anybody tried those self-soldering wire connector sleeves for splicing printer cables? I just got that new spider hotend and instead of buying the actual connector and sliding that onto the end of the thermistor cable I want to just cut the last bit of my existing one off and slice that on instead but I don't have a soldering iron or crimper

>>2619115

When I manually level bed, and have numbers visually tell me a value and try to match it as close as I can in the other corners of the bed.

>calling me a shitter
Honestly all 6 of my printers print reliably. Since the kp3s pro is using glass sheet, I want to use digital probe to get a better tram/level/whatever.

I mean I can print one of those toelrance tests that have those spaces from .35 to .10 and have them all be loose.

>>2619115
Because a Klicky probe is just too expensive.

>>2619122
No, its for manual bed level, I have a poor mans bltouch on the side, you can see that in the pic for my ABL.

>>2619123
>manual bed level
Oh, gross. I'd rather hear about someone's MLP jar.
Good on you for just going ahead and modeling whatever you think will help, I know some people enjoy the challenge of wrasslin' a cheap printer.

>>2618582
You don't even need an actuator arm for this, the toolhead can knock off prints just fine as long as it's wide enough. If not, you can always print a bumper and attach it to the toolhead.
I did repeating prints with my Ender 3 this way. The ducts for my Titan Aero are wide enough so I didn't have to add anything to the toolhead.
Once the part is done and the bed cools to 60C I can tell the toolhead to push it off the buildplate.
Nozzle priming is done in a purge bin fashion, except there is no bin, I just purge outside of the bed then wipe the nozzle clean on the edge of the bed, letting the plastic fall off to the side.

>>2617883
>because i cant do CAD
learn CAD dude, it makes 3D printing ten times better if you can design and print your own stuff. Even if it just a flower pot. I have just printed a special flower pot with an open grid bottom for my succulent plant that cant abide soggy soil for long. Just dont be a retard like I was and lock yourself into FreeCAD.

Is voron 2.4 still a good choice? People are mocking it for being overengineered and slow.

>>2619187

Its not meant to be fast though, reliable as fuck, and yes you can print fast with it, but I find

>more printers but print slower > single printer that can print fast


But, ask them what's an alternative then. If they cant list one, and say

>AnYtHiNg ThAtS nOt A vOrOn

then they're trolling. I have a voron trident, I like it, I bought the 300 cubed trident from LDO "kit" I am happy with it.

IF you want to print fast Maybe consider a Annex Engineer K3, but the bedsize is stuck to 180mm I believe.

https://youtu.be/oUdrANdhvOA

I definitely want to build a K3, a cross gantry would be fun to have.

>>2619176
>Just dont be a retard like I was and lock yourself into FreeCAD.

Not the anon you replied to, what do you mean though? I find some quirks with it, but it seems to get the job done. But I mostly use tinkercad since majority of my stuff is remixes or simple models.

Im struggling with attach an skr 1.3 with tmc drivers to an idex printer.
Most of the stuff is okay except i cant get the two X axes working properly.
I can use one of the X axis to move but cant home. The other x axis is not even moving (i salvaged unused pins like ymax and zmax endstops for x2enable and x2cs).

There are no guides on how to set up an idex with marlin and tmc.
Anyone have experience whit this?

Sewer pipe is legit like a drug, it's not good for you but damn you can't resist it when it's as cheap as PLA
It's worse when the printer can actually make it work

>>2619203
>There are no guides on how to set up an idex with marlin and tmc.
>Anyone have experience whit this?

Marlin doesn't support it.
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/24027

I know klipper supports idex. Here is a config sample.
https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/sample-idex.cfg

>>2619212
Im using a dual carriage, simpler than the wierd setup you linked.

Theres this:https://enderidex.com/
Which apparently works and my setup has the same arrangement
Except i have trinamic drives and an sk1.3

>>2617932
Retard here. How come 0.2 from 0.6 is faster than 0.4? I mean its the same layer high

>>2619227
wall thickness.

>>2619227
For a given amount of plastic, the 0.6mm is going to be faster as you're extruding more even with the same layer height.

The biggest difference will probably come from stuff like wall thickness. Say you want a 1.2mm thick wall and with a 0.4mm nozzle you'll need 3 wall parameters. With the 0.6 nozzle you'll only need 2 parameters

>>2619223
you say it simpler, it seems you made it more complicated with trinamic and sk1.3, otherwise there would be info out there already.

You may have to hack it together.

>>2619232 It is dumb anyway. You could print 0.6 or even 0.8mm width with 0.4mm nozzle without losing resolution on thin parts.

>>2619239
You can get away with it in most cases, sure
Not every extruder however is going to be up to push that much flow through such a tiny nozzle
An actual 0.6 nozzle is a hotdog through a hallway compared to a 0.4

>>2619233
The mechanics are simpler.

>>2619252
>The mechanicals are simpler

Well, good luck, I am sure you will get it sorted out.

Friends, would it be worth buying my own 3D printer instead of paying people to print stuff for me? I'm not too familiar with how much people charge and on the other hand how much filament I would need for my stuff and how much it would cost. I also don't think I plan on printing a lot of things over time either. Right now I want to build pic related and also some small mods for my fat PS2 and also some random brackets. I can buy let's say an Anycubic Kobra Neo but I can't tell if I'll break out even since I'm not sure about how much filament I'd need.

>>2619267
>not planning on printing a lot
unless the people you'd be paying to print for you way overcharge, then no it's not worth buying your own, even if you get a cheap machine chances are high you'll have a lot of learning at the beginning which is its own cost on top of any replacement parts you may or may not end up needing to buy as you learn

>>2619267

Oh I see you're interested in sim racing, I believe I saw this or something similar in the discord, I would ask if theres anyone willing to print the parts at a cost for you.

BTW Don't buy an ender 3, even though theres a huge community and plenty of support, a lot of people give up the hobby because of this.

Same with prusa, expensive as fuck the only argument shills have is "it just werks" which doesn't mean anything anymore.

Granted my first 3d printer was an ender 3, and stuck it out, it was a awful experience, but I still have my ender 3 and it prints reliably now. This is after doing this hobby for about 4.5 years, and 6 printers later, with 7th later this year probably.

>>2619176
i will get into it eventually but that will have to take some time. that will especially have to wait until i have the need to make something i cant find premade already.
also, i tried pirating autoCAD but it doesnt seem to work properly so i will have to look into my options again at some point. i was thinking about just bruteforcing my way through freeCAD but idk, nothings settled yet

>>2619282
try Fusion 360 by Autodesk, a lot of people use it (me included) and it's free with the Personal Use license, and there's a ton of tutorials for beginners. It's a limited version of course but it's more than enough for hobbyists, as the only real limit is that you can only save up to 10 documents. Deleting documents frees up slots however, and I have yet to have a problem with this.
Change the work environment to 'Grey Room' to save your eyes though.

Finished, after 3 or 4 circuit revisions

got a spider hotend for my E5 and had to reflash my firmware because the temperature restrictions kept making the auto-PID fail with how fast the thing heated lmao

I finely figured out how to cut 30mm out of an .stl
this is a much better fit for my kingroon.

>>2619369

>>2619369
I thought the PTFE based ones were better than bearing based ones, since the rolling mass of the filament roll will cause it to overshoot. Not an issue if your bearings are packed with chinky grease.

>>2619392
You'd have to be extruding stupid amounts for the spool to have any significant momentum to do that.
Either way both ptfe and bearings are stupid overkill IMO

>>2619402
Speedy retractions can arguably do it too. It's a lot worse if you have a tube guiding filament into your extruder, since then there's no room for the filament to bunch up.

For PTFE you just use a length or two of some spare bowden tube.

>>2619346
>Deleting documents
surely you realize you can mark them read-only and keep hundreds of files. the limit is on editable files, not files themselves. I have nearly 300 files and just mark them editable when I need to alter something older.

What hot end should I move to for printing PETG with an ender 5 plus? I've tried micro swiss' all metal one and fucking hate the thing, bought one of those creality spider ceramic ones and shockingly the thing is even worse and already on its way back for a refund, I like the e3d v6 on my hand-me-down prusa but can't find a good mount for it for the e5+ that isn't that retardedly overkill herome shit

>>2619441
Was the stock one not enough?
PETG isn't quite the material to need full metal yet, maybe if all you did was print PETG at 250C+

>>2619441
E3D Revo
https://e3d-online.com/products/revo-creality
It's a drop in replacemnt as per https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/5704294571549-Revo-CR-compatibility-list

we're buzzing away now

>>2619441 Good old e3d v6 with cht heater, cht nozzle and a voron style radiator.
>>2619453 Overpriced garbage gimmick not compatible with cht nozzles.

>>2619452
stock one came with the grub screw stripped on the thermistor so couldn't swap out a snapped one without replacing the whole thing, "upgraded" to the micro swiss which gave me nothing but heat creep issues nonstop, gave up on the machine for months while fiddling with the hand-me-down one in the meantime. Grabbed the ceramic spider on recommendations from a bunch of friends but the thing had print killing issues out the box
have yet to have any problems with the e3d hotend beyond a small clog that took all of 5 minutes to remove the nozzle and push clear

>>2619455
Now that's some good shit anon

>>2618197
I think I might be addicted to vase mode

>>2619506
I don't actually understand what vase mode does. I just printed those models as is. What does it do?

>>2619507
Instead of printing layer by layer it prints a single continuous spiraling line all the way to the top. This eliminates any stringing, blobs or gaps that might appear due to retractions since there are none. Also prints much faster.
Obviously this mode restricts you to a single line wall but slap on a fat nozzle like 0.8 or 1.0 and you're good.

A store near me is selling some dirt cheap filament, cheapest is currently 6$ a roll for 1kg. Only catch is the filament is the 3mm kind. Is there anything that I'd have to change on my printer to make it work, besides nozzle and heatbreak?

>>2619506
Oh, thank God... I thought that was a futa model judging by the thumbnail pic.
Anime was a mistake.

>>2619511
Your extruder will probably have difficulty too, and you will have to retune your print parameters from scratch. It's much easier to just spend the extra $15.

>finally got a print to succeed with this replacement hotend
>the final lap failure on the left tower
what even causes something like that lmao
just a cumulative error?
Also, what's the maximum retract distance you should go with on a PTFE hotend? I'm at 7mm with this tower and still have my PETG stringing this badly

>>2619392
Shouldn't be a problem as long as the spinning axis don't align.

>>2619531
>Shouldn't be a problem as long as the spinning axis don't align.
I don't understand at all.

>>2619513
>Your extruder will probably have difficulty too
I haven't seen 3mm variants of popular extruders like titan or BMG so I'd assume they work just as well with 3mm.

>you will have to retune your print parameters from scratch
Not a problem.

>It's much easier to just spend the extra $15.
Maybe for you, I don't want to spend an extra 15$ per roll when a 3mm heatbreak costs 3$ and the nozzle costs another 1$.

>>2619509
Don't forget about seams. Nobody wants an ugly seam running up the whole print.

>>2619392
>since the rolling mass of the filament roll will cause it to overshoot

Can confirm, cause some filament jump off the spool and tighten around the spool holder and essentially failed a print this way.

>>2619197
>>more printers but print slower > single printer that can print fast
Depends on your needs in my opinion. Do you need a lot of the same part, printed with dimensional accuracy? Absolutely what you said. Do you need to iterate on concepts and arrive at a final pick yesterday? One printer that prints really fast, because the most important thing is that you get parts in your hand ASAP.

>>2619653

That's true, I mentioned multiple printers > one printer because I guess that's what I have at the moment, only 6 printers, and a lot of times I would use it to print different parts to finish something quicker, or a bunch of the same thing (gridfinity bins for example) I normally have all printers print the same quantity of gridfinity bins so they all finish within a few minutes of each other (maybe this is some autistic thing)

Still doesn't hurt to have a coreXY or croXY printer and some cheap ones but if it came down to only allowed to have one printer, it would be a coreXY with 300mm bed.

>>2617875
I am going to buy myself an X1 printer. I am new to printing. What hotend sizes should I buy alongside it?
I was thinking a 0.4mm and 0.6mm? I want to print functional parts.

>>2619678
those are good sizes for most use cases, you'd only need something bigger than .6 if you need to shit out huge prints with not much mechanical accuracy

>>2619514
Even more odd is it's consistent even when the print has been angled differently, and these towers were able to print on my old hotend without issue
I've got a different test model starting now to see if I can't figure out what's causing only one tower to fail

Bought a couple small stands to shove into tupperware to keep models dust-free before they can be primed but they were too short alone, was getting ready to measure and cut and glue them together before I realized I could print a properly sized one far more easily
very satisfying

>>2619722
Sounds good man, thank you!
Also hardened steel or stainless steel for the hotend material?

>>2619736
if price isn't a concern just go hardened, even if you don't print abrasive filaments you'll get more longevity out of one compared to cheap stainless steel or brass nozzles, the latter of those two can get deformed and clogged if it brushes your bed the wrong way

>>2619535

I have to agree that dual color filament has a captivating quality to it.

>>2619737
Price isn't much of a concern so I'll go with the hardened. Thanks mate!
Is it worthwhile to get an 0.2mm nozzle as well or is that too small?

>>2619678
You'll only need the 0.6 nozzle for fiber fill filaments.

If you don't plan to use fiber fill filaments then don't bother with a 0.6mm for an X1 carbon. It's too stupidly fast were going to a larger nozzle you have issues melting plastic fast enough to get reliable layer adhesion. This is especially true for non-PLA filaments.
The slicer is keenly aware of this and is why when going to a 0.4 to 0.6 you only get 20-30min time reduction for a multi-hour print.
I'd get a 0.6 just because of the fiber fill filaments but it kind of sucks for regular stuff.

Don't less this discourage you, even if the nozzle design isn't exactly the best it's still faster than 90% of printers.

>>2619754
.2mm nozzles are only really worth it for really high detail precision prints, .4mm will be more than enough for most printing purposes

>>2619757
>>2619763
Thanks anons, I really appreciate the help, godspeed!

with my stock firmware ender 3 i was able to pause a print, shut down the printer and then turn it back on the next day and resume. i recently updated the firmware and now i cant do that anymore. is this something i have to enable manually in the firmware?

>>2619766
just fyi but I print fiber filled filaments with 0.4 all the time, that anon is faggy

Grabbed my gf's printer off her which has hardly been used and it prints like this. Tried adjusting that back right corner to no avail. Light comes through any straight edge I put on the print surface. What can I do? I saw people putting aluminium tape under it to level it. Is there anything else I can try?

>>2619775
Forgot the image like a dunce

>>2619781
Pic 2

>>2619781
>>2619783
That's the lowest you can get that corner? Have you checked the spring underneath it to see if it needs replacing?

>>2619774
>that anon is faggy
It's just based off experience, granted I did have an Ender 3 before any maybe the extruder wasn't up to par tp push things but I have gotten clogs with 0.4mm nozzles and fiber fill filaments.

Haven't had any issues with the included CF PLA on a Bambu X1 and a 0.4mm nozzle but that filament is explicitly specified that it can be used with a 0.4 nozzle, as is many first party Bambu carbon fiber filaments.

3rd party filaments that use a much higher fiber quantity or explicitly sates to use a 0.6mm nozzle I'm not going to roll the dice with a 0.4mm nozzle.

>>2619784
Not the lowest I can get the corner. I tried raising it, should I not have? Plus that second picture, is the bed not warped?

>>2619775
>Light comes through any straight edge I put on the print surface.
This means that your print surface isn't flat, and no amount of bed leveling is going to fix that (although obviously you still need to level the bed as best you can)

Have you tried setting it up with mesh bed leveling? If you use manual mesh, then you won't need a special sensor, and it's usually quick, easy, and free.

>>2619789
>Have you tried setting it up with mesh bed leveling?
I've heard of it but never looked into it. I just use the 16 point auto level the thing comes with and the paper trick under the nozzle to test the z level
>The thing
Forgot to mention it's an ender 3 v2 neo

>>2619788
hard for me to tell if that bed is warped from that image, but that fade on your extruded line in the top right corner is from your nozzle being too close, not too far, if it were too far it would have looping where it is able to touch down for a few mm then parts again or it wouldn't adhere at all, you have the nozzle so tight against that corner that it's dragging on it and barely able to push filament out
first and foremost you should raise the nozzle away from the bed without printing and heat it up and push some filament through manually to make sure the nozzle hasn't deformed from dragging on the bed
then if it's working go to level your bed and in that top right corner make it so you can see a small gap between the nozzle and the bed, if you have feeler gauges (probably dont onhand but they're like 3 bucks at a hobby shop/on amazon) you can use a .2mm gauge to test but otherwise a piece of printer paper can make an acceptable substitute, you want to be able to feel the smallest amount of resistance when moving something beneath that nozzle but you don't want it so tight that you have to force the gauge/paper to move it around

>>2619792
I must be leveling very wrong then. I try to have quite a bit of resistance (not so much the paper won't move but still requires a bit of force to) and have been adjusting corners wrong. I've got the Mrs running shopping errands for feeler gauges (20 emu bucks in the land down under) and some al tape as a last resort while I'm at work. I'll try leveling it without the tape and trying again before I start using it. Any other advice on beginner mistakes?

>>2619796
>Try again
Try the print again

>>2619796
I haven't used an ender 3 neo but I assume it probably has live z-offset adjustment, after leveling it this next time print that spiral again and watch as it gets to that back right corner and raise it if it still looks like your pic or lower it if the filament isn't getting squished enough to adhere
if you're printing PLA you want some squish to help things stick just not as much as that corner, things like PETG and ABS are finnickier and you'll have to test offsets yourself to see what works for making it adhere, if you're printing PETG or ABS you'll also want a textured build plate eventually but using some painter's tape or a glue stick will help protect the build surface when removing prints

>>2619796
>>2619799
a good reference point for what to look for with your first layer

>>2619800
It does have live z offset. I just don't want to fiddle with it in case I set it too low and it scrapes along. I'll fiddle with it while the beds hot but not while it's moving I think.
Is replacing the full bed itself a thing people do?
Also I've only been printing with PLA atm. I tried a large ABS print and that came out shifted to crap. I've got shifts essentially under control though.

>>2619804
the bed as in the actual heated portion on the gantry or the magnetic plate you have? If the plate then yes people replace them, the bed can be replaced too but it's a more involved process

>>2619807
The heated part under the magnetic plate. Just wanna know as a last resort, or if it's even worth it.

>>2619441
whatever nozzle you use for PLA

>>2619511
anything and everything that fits the 1.75mm, so extruder, tube, connections, the entire heat block, nozzle. you might as well just print a 2nd machine and set it up for 3mm with a 1.0mm nozzle.

>>2619750
No it's still an issue. The filament spool still effectively rotates about its centre of rotation regardless of the size of the bearings, and it still has its own angular momentum.

>>2619781
bend it back into place. put it on a flat surface (a non-stainless kitchen bench is often decent), and go at it with a hammer. use a block of wood or something to spread out the impact as not to make pock-marks on the surface

these lines mean theres something wrong with my z-axis screw, right? ender 3 btw
its certainly no layer shift because it looks the same all the way around. like an elephants foot but in the middle of the print or something.
also, anything on this? >>2619769

>>2619863
Sometimes. Other times it's a loose belt. I was getting funky layers like that, and just gave the belt tension a couple of cranks. Now it's pretty damn accurate. If you suspect Z wobble, order a big Z movement and watch the screw for wobbling.

Looking pretty good, but the beam isn't as tight as it could be. I'll try focusing it again, unfortunately Lightburn lacks a laser width compensation for fill operations. There's definitely some astigmatism, when looking at that gondola-cap you can see the line being thicker and thinner at different angles. These 0.2mm lines especially aren't being resolved well.

Actually running the laser at a lower power seems to make this dot thinner, so I'll experiment with both laser height and with laser power. And speed I guess.

>>2619863
could be partially clogged nozzle, do a cold pull

>>2619909
Forgot original pic lmao

>>2619909
>>2619949
Anyhow here's the test run, looks like 5.5mm height and 40-20% power is the way to go. Some strange thermal deformation at the 100% power line, so I'll try to avoid that.

>>2619949
Actually it looks like my line spacing could be a bit closer together too.

I plan on setting power to 40% and doing a series of Z focus runs with the “non adjustable” lens rotated by different amounts. Hopefully I can easily fix the astigmatism that way.

>>2619203
Did you get this working?
Sounds like you're doing a perfectly normal idex setup.
If you're still having trouble, share your configuration and configuration_adv in a pastebin or some shit.

>>2619212
This nigga. Idex printers work perfectly fine with Marlin, that issue report was specific to the unique kinematics used by Markforged, and only by Markforged. Marlin has had idex support for over 5 years now.

How useful is an ultrasonic cleaner for 3D printing? I'm trying to sell a salvaged elegoo mars 2 and want to know if it's worth putting both items together in a lot. Thank you.

>>2620017
They're nice, kind of just a luxury.
Selling them together isn't a bad idea, but it depends how you're selling and if there are shipping concerns.

>>2620019
I plan to sell locally (fb marketplace) if I can, so shipping won't be an issue. Thanks again.

Hi there.
I've got an ender 3 pro with a v4.2.2 board and v1.0.1 firmware. Is this thing a fire hazard if I don't upgrade the firmware? I can find plenty of information on how to upgrade my firmware, but none on how to tell if I have a safe machine.
Second, IM FICKING DONE WITH PTFE TUBES. I've gotten 5 clogs from the tube in my printer and I just need an all metal hot end that fits on an ender 3, are there any cheaper chinese knockoffs on ebay that will suit my needs ok? I've been looking at this one specifically (https://www.ebay.com/itm/304244746703?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20220705100511%26meid%3D883c9ae8c0964558abe411cb60781f06%26pid%3D101524%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D304244746703%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p2380057.c101524.m146925&_trkparms=pageci%3A87120881-f863-11ed-9539-1ec1e7db57c5%7Cparentrq%3A41fb959a1880a9f54ccb466bfffd6efe%7Ciid%3A1)) but I'm not sure if it has an all metal hot end, and i'm not even fully sure that it's compatible with my printer.
Any advice helps.

>>2620029
Not all-metal, not even a proper V6 clone, it's a weird mashup of parts, do not recommend.
It's not terrible, you can get all-metal heatbreaks for them, but don't bother unless you have a Kingroon printer that already has this hotend setup.
If you want to go all-metal on your Ender 3 Pro, get an all-metal heatbreak, that's the easiest solution, <$5USD on Aliexpress.

Your printer is probably a fire hazard if you haven't opened it. They often have wires shoved into screw terminals either bare or tinned with solder, this is bad, this is a fire hazard. They SHOULD have ferrules crimped to them. Google "Ender 3 Ferrules" if you need help, it's been done to death so the info is easy to find.

You should upgrade the firmware regardless, yes for thermal runaway protection and other safety features, but also just to have up to date firmware and the features and general improvements that come with that.

>>2619802
>high
Is that the nozzle or the bed? Lowering the corner worked but now I've got this going on. No matter what I do, it messes up the same way at the same corner

Do 3D printers stink? The filament being melted and all. Can I keep one in my room while I sleep too? My clothes wont get stunk up?

>>2620059

>>2615983

>>2620058
I fixed the issue in the bottom right but now the entire right edge goes exceedingly flat from bottom right to top right. I've loosened the bolt so much but still it makes no difference. Then as soon as it turns the corner, it's ok

>>2620059
I keep one in my room and the smell isn't bad. The noise is far worse but i sleep with earplugs and I drink every night

Will 4 axis printers solver the layer adhesion issue with 3d printed products?

>>2620138
you sure you're not just having adhesion issues?

>>2620058
in that reference image high would be the nozzle
nothing in your pic looks awful aside from that small area of adhesion loss in the corner, have you wiped the plate down with isopropyl recently?

I've been trying to get one of those dumbfuck octopuses to print properly for days now and I'm losing my fucking mind. Is there a trick to keeping small parts from curling up and just ruining everything? Especially when it's like 50 small parts that all need to work properly at once? I've tried going slower, faster, hotter, colder, brim, raft fucking CHRIST I feel like I'm playing Mastermind trying to find the right combination of BULLSHIT but the combination keeps changing depending on temperature or indiscernible changes in air drafts. This one print has probably reduced my lifespan by months with how much stress and work its put on me. I should just buy a Bambu Cuckbox and accept that this hobby is too hard for me.

>>2617875
What exactly is the point of printers going 250mm/s if you cannot even print some materials as PETG faster than ~60mm/s?

Also thinking about picking up a cheap Ender 5 Plus and modifying it to a CoreXY to print PETG fucking fast. I'm not only talking motion system, I'm also talking stiffening up the frame and all. I could get my Hands on one for ~200€.

Would I be retaraded to do so?

>>2620204
>some materials
>PETG
you're thinking of ASA maybe? I print PETG at 200mm/s.

Also the reason is because you don't print ASA all the time. I mean what's the point of a Charger Hellcat when the speed limit is 40mph on some roads? Shouldn't you get a 50cc scooter that has a top mph of 40mph?

>>2620207
I for the life of me cannot print PETG faster than 53mm/s without it warping like the turd of a dehydrated crackhead. Just printed a temp tower for some new PETG with 30mm/s, it fucking crumbled to shit in my hands just now ...

I don't print any ASA at all. I print PLA (which I can print up to 120mm/s) and PETG.

>>2620217
Hold on, disregard that temp tower, I'm just fucking retarded. I swapped in the 0.2mm nozzle instead of the 0.4mm ...

>>2620203
Share some info about your printer and your settings or "more cooling, slower speeds" is the only advice you're gonna get.

How do you like my raidcage design to convert my 3 optical drive bays to hard drive storage

>>2620204
Fixing up a 200€ sounds like a waste of money.
By the time you've done the conversion, you'd have already spent enough that you could've just bought a better CoreXY printer, so yeah pretty retarded.

>>2620207
>you're thinking of ASA maybe?
I get more flow from ASA than any other material, prints with the same high-speed profiles I use for PLA.
you're thinking of PVA maybe?

>>2620242
Looks good, share this with >>>/g/hsg/ they love these kind of things!

>>2620250
Thanks, I'll share once it's printed and installed

>>2620242
Cuuuute print it.

>>2620242
how are the drives secured? I can't wait to see the support nightmare you've made actually print.

>>2620248
>you're thinking of PVA maybe?
PVA prints fine for me although that's just a support interface level. Maybe you meant nylon?

>>2620260
No Nylon flows exceptionally well, more so than PETG.
Maybe you meant Polycarbonate?

>>2620259
Probably tape. I'm doing a test print now just to see how well crucial parts fit together so I may make changes

>>2620264
Just make it a press-fit, you jam the drives in snuggly.

>>2620264
>tape

>>2620261
Polycarbonate is supposed to be pretty easy to work with.
Maybe you meant PAHT-CF?

>>2620275
I doubt anyone really struggles with PAHT-CF, I can say assuredly that I never have.
Maybe you meant PPSU?

>>2620259
this looks like it wouldn't require any supports to me?

>>2620014
Spent 5 more hours on trying out configs and debugging stuff.

The main problem wast that marlin does some sort of auto assignment of driver slots. So my idea of populating the xyze1e2 slots for the xyze1e2 motor drivers and cannibalizing unused pins for x2 didnt work. I didnt want to dive too deep into marlins inner workings. In case of dual carriage the auto assignment (if i understand it correctly) takes the first extruder slot (e0) and assigns it to x2, e1 stays e1 and e2 will become e0 or some shit.

I ended up doing xyzx2e1 and bodged the e0 on some unused pins. Still some of thepins that marlin reported unused could not be used so 2 hours more wasted on looking for free pins.

If i knew this ahead of time, i would have bought a purpose built board and waited a couple of days instead of wasting like 10 hours.

Currently it works.

Gonna post pic tomorrow.

Also dont buy the Flashforge Creator Pro 2.

>>2620154
Very well could be. Either I haven't noticed it before or I just never had it but I never recall having adhesion issues. Any way to fix it? A new bed? My mate prints on a glass bed with the same printer. Should I just lower the speed of the print? And doesn't explain why that side of the bed gets so thin. Not trying to sound rude but don't know how to word that, I really appreciate all the help I've received

>>2620393
not sure of your type of bed, but if you can, wash it with dish soap. If you can't do that, wipe it really well with some alcohol and a clean cloth, then do it again.

is it ok to store isopropyl in my mercury wash or should i put it back in the bottle

>>2620397
Perfectly fine so long as you cover it. If you don't have the lid or the seal is fucked up, then no obviously, otherwise it's totally fine.

>>2620396
I'll give it a wash, it's some kinda smooth flexible metal. If not, I'll grab some alcohol and give that a go. It's a bit dusty so it could be that

I am trying to figure out how much effort it would take to DIY a mold for some dragon ball z saiyan armor and in order to create a mold i would need a 3d print of the armor.
Has anyone paid a 3d modeller on etsy to make them a 3d print design and if yes, how did they do?
The armor would be large so i'd probably have to have it printed in 2-3 parts and then glue them together. When i get the model printed what printers should i make sure the business has to ensure perfect quality?

I am trying to figure out how much effort it would take to DIY a mold for some dragon ball z saiyan armor and in order to create a mold i would need a 3d print of the armor.
Has anyone paid a 3d modeller on Fiverr* to make them a 3d print design and if yes, how did they do?
The armor would be large so i'd probably have to have it printed in 2-3 parts and then glue them together. When i get the model printed what printers should i make sure the business has to ensure perfect quality?

>>2620412
This nigga bout to drop first-home down payment prices on DBZ armor.
Good job anon, looking forward to it.

>>2620412
>2-3 parts
kek

>>2620412
>ensure perfect quality
Gosh I wish you added "without spending much" at the end. Your post would have probably made me wet myself.

>>2620414
It's called diy anon, there is plenty of options for me to do this cheaply like injection molding or fibreglass molding.
>>2620422
I'm only going to do the front brestplate without the shoulders, it is going to relatively thin. Is there any reason a commercial 3d printer couldnt print it in 2-3 parts? is it a defect thing where the larger a print the more defects occur? i dont have any experience with 3d printers.
>>2620427
quality has to be perfect in dimensions not in smoothness or marks from removing the supports, when making a mold from a 3d print you smooth it with some sand paper and then apply a resin coat designed for this purpose.

>>2620431
>It's called diy anon, there is plenty of options for me to do this cheaply like injection molding or fibreglass molding.
> paid a 3d modeller on Fiverr
> get the model printed
Right, diy as fuck.

>>2620431
You're MASSIVELY underestimating what it costs to have things 3D printed for you, especially large items.
What you're talking about, from a reputable commercial 3D printing service, you're looking at tens of thousands of dollars.
Printed by some nerd in your town on their closet-bound Ender 3 in *dozens* of pieces, you'll be spending hundreds on the materials alone, covering the cost of several hours worth of prep work, and hundreds of hours of printing.

A little better without the shoulders, you say you only want the breast plate.
If you're comfortable doing fiberglass molding (which is cheap) or injection molding apparently (you think this is cheap and DIY friendly? kek), then just buy an Elegoo Neptune 3 Max and print the molds yourself, you'll save hundreds if not thousands of dollars.

>>2620431
>when making a mold from a 3d print you smooth it with some sand paper and then apply a resin coat designed for this purpose.
>i dont have any experience with 3d printers
it shows

>>2620451
what the fuck are you talking about? thousands of dollars to print a shitty plastic part? 2-3 parts being 20cm in diameter? less than 5 mls thick? it costs like 10 bucks in plastic doesnt it? how much is a spool of plastic 20$?
nigger im not printing a 5 kilo block of specialised plastic as a mold directly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpJdwryFj6k
hur dur it's so hard and expensive.
You niggers are dumb as fuck.
So much for coming here and expecting any anons to know jack shit about 3d printing. The 3d design is a literal square with some angles, there is already an actual model that is slightly shitty on the 3d design sites that could be modified if i could be bothered. I cant be fucked spending a couple days fumbling my way through fusion 360 when i could just pay a 3rd world uni grad from india 50$.
It is astonishing how retarded you all are.
Thousands of dollars to print 3 parts, lol.

>work retail
>get an ender 3 v2 neo printer as a new product 2 months ago
>use it for printing random stuff about the shop
>died in the middle of a print
>won’t turn on, fuse isn’t blown, not even a spinning fan
lmao I thought our Aquila v2 was trash

>>2620460
Get a quote from Shapeways and then apologize.

>>2620460
Commercial printing services are overpriced as fuck. The advice you've gotten is to DO IT YOURSELF.

Having gone through three cheapo brass nozzles in as many days printing my pretty new matte PLA, I'm considering getting something pricier. I've got my eyes on either nickel-plated copper, or wolfram carbide. I'm printing high speed, so tool steel which I already have isn't a great option, the extruder starts slipping unless I print at like a third of normal speed. Nickel-plated copper is obviously cheaper, but testimony online says it isn't actually much harder than standard brass and isn't recommended for metal flake plastic (pretty sure my matte PLA isn't that abrasive, but it's clearly a lot more abrasive than standard PLA).
Do I need to splurge on the wolfram carbide or will nickel-plating be good enough for matte PLA?

>>2620460
>I cant be fucked
the downfall of humanity

>>2620464
inb4 it was a GFCI outlet

>bambu lab always resets tree walls to 1
>trees fail
I've lost so many fucking prints to this shit.

>>2620464
if i needed a bowden style printer for commercial application i would never go near creality or most chinese brands for that matter

>>2620485
Yeah. I'm normally a Creality defender, having had good experiences with Enders, but their products aren't suitable for commercial use. The wheels work well on a home printer that sees occasional use, but they won't last in a printer that'll be kept going 24/7. You really do want linear rails to maintain print quality over the life of a printer.

>>2620460
>Knows nothing about 3d printers
>Asks people in a thread literally about 3d printers
>Gets answer
>Doesn't like it
>Starts acting like he's a 3d print god
You have your video showing how to make a mold, you have your hypothetical $50 quote from India, you have your design, what is your question other than wanting people to be like "wow no way! :O that's so cool!"

>>2620485
>>2620496
No guys I work retail. We sell these printers. This was a display model.

>>2620576
you make me happy, anon

I printed me a tarmo 5
Already melted the centers out the cheap wheels I bought in less than 10min
And they where nylon too so they literally fused themselves to the nylon axles

>>2620600
Fuck yeah good job, now you get to make some carbon fiber or steel axles for it.

>>2620502
I mean that anon is definitely being a retard, but I would somewhat agree that the cost was a bit over stated. 10s of thousands for a commercial print is a bit of an exaggeration, even if it wont be cheap. That said, doing it in smaller parts would still be not great either though as larger flat-ish shit like that would take a ton of support material and effort to combine the parts afterwards

I feel like even trying to print that would just be a waste of either time or money though. I'd think something like that would be better off made with some templates and vacuum formed with some sheets of plastic. There's likely comparable projects people have done for cosplays that have big chest plates and assuming you're not terrible at DIY could be done better with a different method.

Anyone looking at or printed hextraction?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iqz7ZDdP25A
It's a "board game". I'm considering throwing some filament at it but I've got all black white and gray filament so the pieces would be pretty boring.

>>2620720
>>2620451
>>2620431
it's like you naggers live under a rock and have never heard of cosplay. you can literally make foam armor and either wear it or then go down the casting rabbit hole (where you'd be stupid to not use vacuum casting) but anyway it's like you're all trying to be fucktarted and I don't get it.

>>2620375

>>2620737
Get a quote from Shapeways and shut the fuck up.
This is /diy/, and you're asking about paying multiple people to do a project for you, and state that you want to use a commercial printing service.
People who know what they're talking about have told you not to do that, because commercial printing services aren't meant for hobbyists doing cosplay, and their prices are ludicrous. This is /diy/, buy a printer and do it yourself.

Have you gotten a quote from Shapeways yet? Cheapest order my company has ever made from them was over $2k for something I'd print at home for $2.

Don't bitch about shit you don't know about, don't cry when you don't like the answers to your question.
Maybe go join a larping group where other faggots DIY armor, and they'll also tell you that you're stupid and using a commercial printing service would be a massive waste of money.
Think through your project, then just DO IT YOURSELF, or go find somewhere else to cry about your gay little project.

>>2620777
How horrifying. I'm glad you're making progress. My experience with Marlin and Idex was plug-and-play simple, really unfortunate you've got to go through this.

>>2620788
>really unfortunate you've got to go through this.
Oh well, now i know. Otherwise configuring marlin is usually a breeze.

>>2620786
nta you faggot. I was merely stating that this is a solved problem and using a 3D printed solution is fucking retarded. I agree the OP of this chain is a fucking retard, and maybe you misquoted, I'll give you that.

>>2620806
Wasn't meant to be directed at you anon, only the original 'tard who thinks paying people to do something for you is /diy/ and injection molding is cheap fun for hobbyists.

I may just do his entire project out of spite, I'll have some Saiyan armor listed on Etsy while he's still arguing with Ramesh.

is 3D printing really DIY when the robot is doing it for you

>>2620928
>bashing rock with hand == DIY
>bashing rock with rock, not DIY, rock do work

Soo is this 3DJAKE website legit? Seems the most convenient to buy for me and the cheapest, although the price is suspicious. I'm not in the UK by the way, just used that location to present a first world currency to you guys. What should I buy? I suppose the OP says Anycubic Kobra Neo, although is it worth it to extend to the Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo? Any of these in between worth it?

>>2620994
>website shows virtually everything on sale
>legit
You tell us anon

>>2620994
3DJAKE is part of an Austrian e-commerce conglomerate, it's legit. Their prices aren't always competitive, sometimes they've got specific shit that's just overpriced as fuck, so always compare to other retailers you have access to. They're just a mass reseller of Chinese shit like Amazon is.

Specifically between the Kobra Neo and the Ender 3 V2 Neo, I think the V2 Neo is worth the difference in price, but I wouldn't recommend either if that's your budget, there's better stuff in that price range to consider.
Both Anycubic and Creality are known for making cheap printers and lots of them, not for making high quality products.

Consider the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. It's priced on par with the E3V2 Neo at 3DJAKE, but has a larger build volume, a screen that you can detach and hold in your hand, a direct extruder, a slightly more stable hotend carriage, filament runout sensor, led lighting, and genuinely better build quality than you'd get from Creality or Anycubic's comparable offerings.

>>2621005
>>2620994
this fucking has to be some bait shit lmao. nice try scamming people

>>2621013
Your loss

>>2621013
Lol you're a fucking retard, do your own research.
Like any reseller of Chinese garbage, they have shit-tier customer service and are known for slow shipping times. Lots of their shit is drop-shipped but in any way labeled as such, have to ask them directly.

I've been buying from them since 2016, and the only issues I've ever had were shipping and/or customs related.

>>2621003
>>2621013
This doesn't help me.

>>2621020
Customs? I thought these dudes shipped from within the EU.

>>2621005
>Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro

Thanks, I'll check it out. It wasn't in the OP and it's not listed as discounted, so I didn't bother looking at it. What about the Artillery Sidewinder X2? Considering the discount that's the highest I'm willing to go I think.

>>2621023
>Customs? I thought these dudes shipped from within the EU.
Sometimes. Their inventory is all over the place, they're just a reseller and drop-shipper of Chinese stuff.
If you want to know where an item is shipped from specifically, you'll have to ask their support about it, otherwise you may order something expecting it in a few days only to find out that it's coming from Shenzhen and you won't see it for 7 weeks.

>popular and available options
The OP lists shit that's common and available, printers that many other people have and use, shit you can readily find information about. It doesn't mean they're the only ones worth considering, or even recommended at all at their current price. There are a shit-ton of 3D printers available at every price point imaginable, what's right for you depends on your own needs and experience level.

>>2621035
What would be the best one from that website for around 300?

>>2621023
>Neptune 3 Pro
>Sidewinder X2
The Sidewinder is a worse printer but you get more of it.
If you're a first timer, first printer, I'd take the Neptune. Elegoo has a reputation for making "surprisingly good" FDM machines, generally much better quality than their direct competitors, and that means an easier learning curve for you.

In general, they've got pretty comparable specs aside from the size advantage of the X2, or the potential quality advantage of the Neptune.

>>2621042
>What would be the best one from that website for around 300?
>Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro

>>2621005
Ender 5s have dropped in price pretty significantly too, and they're pretty good for the price. Good print volume, included auto leveling, etc. Only negatives really are the wheels instead of rails, and the insufferable touchscreen on the Plus. The wheels are fine for a printer you only use occassionally though.

>but it's not coreXY
No, but what it has is also no worse than coreXY. Makes it tricky to find replacements for the Y axis motor, but chances are that will outlive the rest of the printer anyway.

>>2621061
>Ender 5
Availability is getting spotty, but the standard Ender 5 can be found new for right around $300USD now, and I agree that's a lot of printer for the money.
Nothing amazing really, but if you're into tinkering and like the idea of big mods and serious upgrades then it's a better starting point than any bedslinger for that price.

>>2621043
>>2621046
I just finished watching a butch of different videos on the neptune. Sounds cool. I think I might just cop that one. Thanks.

how did all this get started?

>>2621103
De Vinci drew the first 3d printed however the materials available to him at the time were not able to make it a reality

>>2621109
oops wrong webm

>>2621113
damn I meant this webm

>>2620994
Bought my Neptune 3 Pro from 3DJake last week. Its legit. They even refunded me some money when I nicely asked them if they would because I ordered a week before my birthday and the birthday email included a 10% off coupon code. They gave me that coupon retroactively. Very nice.

>Ahhh I am proooooonting.

>>2621124
Hey look, a QC sticker, how appropriate.

>>2620238
I've been on this website too long.

>>2621125
makes me all fuzzy and warm inside

>>2620994
Bought nozzles/filaments for about a year didnt know they are some big corpo

>>2617875
>Out of all the autisitic hobbies I could've chosen, I chose 3d printing
Pic related

>>2620994
>Soo is this 3DJAKE website legit?
I bought 3 spools of matte PETG from them, they're legit

>>2617875
Could anyone explain to a midwit like me, why the fuck my printer still does this, pic related, after PERFECTLY tramming the Bed AND using a ABL Probe (CR-Touch)?
It's a Ender 3 Pro with a single lead screw so I expect the head to be a bit lower when it's on the right side of the gantry, but I cannot explain WHY this POS still does this EVEN AFTER TRAMMING THE BED AND USING AN AUTOMATIC BED "LEVELER". HOLY FUCKING SHIT, THIS ANNOYS ME SO MUCH, AND IT IS THE REASON WHY THIS >>2621341 HAPPENED TO ME, IT KEPT SCRAPING OFF PETG FROM THE LAYER IT WAS PRINTING ON BECAUSE IT WAS SAGGING ON IT UNTIL IT HAD SCOOPED UP SO MUCH MATERIAL THAT IT JUST SHAT THE BED, JESUS FUCKING CHRIST IT IS GETTING ON MY NERVES.

Things's tried so far:
>New Z-Axis Nut
>Spring loaded Z-Axis Nut
>ABL
>Black Silicone Bed Dampers
>Orange Spring Bed Dampers
>Orange Silicone Bed Dampers
>Spring-Coupler for the Z-Axis screw
>ABL before every print 4x4 grid
>ABL once 10x10 grid
>M420 S1 after G28
>ABL once 11x11 grid
>M420 S1 after G28
>ABL before every print 11x11 grid

I don't know what to do anymore short of doing a belted Z-Mod but I do not have the time for this right now.

TL;DR:
How do I fix this shit.

>>2621365
So have you verified your nozzle-to-probe offsets, all 3?
Adjusted your z-offset to correct for what is obviously too close currently?
Added M211 S0 after your G29 because fuck it?
You've clearly thrown a lot at what is almost certainly not a hardware issue.
I'm assuming you're not an actual retard and that you're compiling your own firmware.

>>2621365
Bros I was about to order an Ender 3 Pro, but now I'm worried.

>>2621368
>So have you verified your nozzle-to-probe offsets, all 3?
I could not find reliable offsets so I took the measurements myself. It's a stock Sprite Pro Hot-End and a stock CR-Touch bolted on the stock mounting points.
>Adjusted your z-offset to correct for what is obviously too close currently?
From a range from -1.5mm to -2.3mm I tried everything, either the left side is too far and does not stick or the right side is too close and it scoops up filament. Pic related is what the nozzle looks like after THIS print >>2621365
I also thought it might be overextrusion, so I calibrated that as well, 100mm gives me exaclty 100mm of filament.
>Added M211 S0 after your G29 because fuck it?
Nope. I'll try it out.
>You've clearly thrown a lot at what is almost certainly not a hardware issue.
Seems like it
>I'm assuming you're not an actual retard and that you're compiling your own firmware.
I've configured and compiled Marlin from scratch, I even managed to mod my Ender 3 Pro screen to a fully functioning Ender 3 v2 screen I got from a friend, I'm also a Computer Scientist originally. I'm not actually retarded, I'm a high functioning autist though, but this has been frustrating me for the past 8 months so I feel like an utter retard.

>>2621373
It's fine for smaller prints, but if you want to get close to the full build volume, you'll pull you hairs out. All I'm trying to print is this this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499190 with a few adjustments made by myself in Blender and Fusion 360.

>>2621373
For $100USD or less right?
Because it's great for $100USD or less, otherwise not so much, wouldn't recommend to a friend.

>>2621365
>printing petg onto glass bed

Doesn't that fuse with the glass or can you use glue as a release agent?

>I don't know what to do anymore short of doing a belted Z-Mod but I do not have the time for this right now.

I was about to suggest this mod.

but for this to be happening so easily, grab the end of the gantry that doesn't have the z screw, and see how much it moves.

>pic related

I found out these bolts were really loose, and I only realized that when I grabbed the gantry from the opposite end and it had rough estimate of 25 mm of travel going up and down. The thing is I never suspected it because I never saw it moved like that when I homed the printer.

I also took the gantry off and replaced those button heads with a hex head and bought a super thin wrench in case it ever came loose again. but it hasn't since.

>>2621341
DUDE. My dumbass had the same thing happen yesterday. The bolts are fucking warped and none of the allen wrenches will fit, like it's now an in-between size.

>>2621378
Double verify your offsets, make damn good and sure you didn't flip something without realizing it, fucking sucks dick to chase ABL problems and find it there.

If you've calibrated your e-steps confidently, then double check that you're not doing some miss-matched bullshit like slicing with absolute extrusions and an M83 in your start gcode, that's always fun.
M211 S0 disabled soft endstops, and depending some Marlin settings it's possible for the soft endstops to fuck your ABL. If it's all set up right, this shouldn't be necessary, so if it "fixes" things then know it means you've got problems with your config.

>>2621381
>Doesn't that fuse with the glass or can you use glue as a release agent?
>you can you use glue as a release agent
Still possible to fuck things if you're not careful of course, always let the bitch cool down before trying to pry off your print.

>>2621384
If you've got Torx bits, grab the nearest size and tap it in with a little force, should give you enough grab to get them out. Remember to warm up the hotend first or you're gonna have a bad time with all the plastic already melted onto and around them.

>>2621379
No it's between 250-300.

>>2621378
>ll I'm trying to print is this this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499190

It's not even big...

>>2621381
>Doesn't that fuse with the glass or can you use glue as a release agent?
No, doesn't fuse, I also use "3DMilk" as a bed-adhesion agent and I wait until it fully cools down. It basically self-releases.
>grab the end of the gantry that doesn't have the z screw, and see how much it moves.
With a non-spring-coupler, it moves a mm at most. With the spring-coupler, it the entire gantry moves, but I cannot say how much it deviates from the rodded end. I'll try to change to a non-spring-coupler later.
>I found out these bolts were really loose, and I only realized that when I grabbed the gantry from the opposite end and it had rough estimate of 25 mm of travel going up and down. The thing is I never suspected it because I never saw it moved like that when I homed the printer.
They are tight, would be hard to take apart

>>2621384
Brother from another Mother, lmao.
The other Anon already said to use Torx, but there also are Drill bits that are reverse-tapped which are used to extract screws.

>>2621385
>Double verify your offsets, make damn good and sure you didn't flip something without realizing it, fucking sucks dick to chase ABL problems and find it there.
Just checked. Here's the values:
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -32, -42, -2.3 }
-2.3 is the most I even went with on Z, but right now it's sitting on -2.0 inside the printer config
>If you've calibrated your e-steps confidently, then double check that you're not doing some miss-matched bullshit like slicing with absolute extrusions and an M83 in your start gcode, that's always fun.
I don't have M83 in my start gcode, I'll post gcode in CONT. AFAIK I haven't fucked with absolute extrusions or anything in Cura.

>>2621390
>No it's between 250-300.
Don't do it Anon
>It's not even big...
I know. You realize why I'm fuckin' frustrated?

>>2621373
E3 Pro is $200USD currently, or $100USD at Microcenter which is actually a fair price in my opinion.
For a similar $200-$230, consider the KP3S Pro, the Aquila X3, and the Elegoo Neptune 3 and 3 Pro, all arguably better than the E3 Pro.
KP3S Pro wins the small, cute, and surprisingly good category, despite some distinct failures from Mao, like the weird E3D V5/V6 hybrid hotend that's just an abomination of surplus parts.
The Aquila X3 has a better screen, auto bed leveling, and a decent build plate right out of the box.
The Neptune 3 has an *even better* screen that you can hold in your hand, a decent built plate, auto bed leveling, and a reputation for quality that exceeds their direct competitors. The 3 Pro takes that and adds a better extruder and a better hotend.

Neptune's are my first choice, but the most expensive of the 3, especially with the Pro at $230.
The KP3S Pro is awesome but I'm also the kind of faggot who can't differentiate between "fun" and "fun for autists," I'm still on the fence about really recommending them.
The Aquila isn't special but it's a better value than any comparable Creality machine, which the E3 Pro just isn't.

>>2621385
>>2621393
>CONT
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
;M104 S{material_standby_temperature} ; Start heating up the nozzle most of the way
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the bed, wait until target temperature reached
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Finish heating the nozzle
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 S1 //Just Added this one a few minutes ago
M420 S1
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish

The Fucker just ignored G29 S1 and went straight to printing ...

>M211 S0 disabled soft endstops, and depending some Marlin settings it's possible for the soft endstops to fuck your ABL. If it's all set up right, this shouldn't be necessary, so if it "fixes" things then know it means you've got problems with your config.
But this does not fuck with the "hard" X-limits, right?
I cannot move the print head fully to the right because the top right screw for the X-Wheel interferes with the backplate-mount for the Z-Wheels. I had this problem once already with the bottom screw which I swapped out with a thinner headed screw. But at that point the nozzle already overhangs the bed by 5 to 10 mm. I'll try and see if I can do this to the other screw as well.
The only limits I have for X and Y movement are these as I do not have X_MAX and Y_MAX limit-switches
#define X_BED_SIZE 230 //Original 235
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220 //Original 235
Otherwise I have set no endstops AFAIK.

>>2621394
>>2621393
Wait I'm still sleeping and confused the ender 3 pro with the neptune 3 pro. I'm looking to buy the neptune.

>>2621407
>neptune 3 pro
Ender 3 clon-
SWEET BABY JESUS, WHAT THE FUCK IS THAT, ARE THEY GOING TO STREAM GCODE OVER LANDLINE OR WHAT

>>2621404
Disabling soft endstops lets your printer move "wherever". If you tell it to go to X1000000, it will try, and it will grind. The real reason to disable it in this case is to ensure that the hotend can move freely on the z-axis. In stupid fucking cases it's possible to set up ABL "wrong" such that it can't reach where it thinks it needs to be. This usually results in being too far from the bed, not too close, but both are possible. Again, if this "fixes" it, then the real problem is in your config. I'm saying that again in case some other faggot only reads this and not the previous post.

I assume you're using Bilinear mesh leveling? G29 S1 will set the movement rate between probing points to 1mm/s, it will not start an ABL sequence.
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-ubl.html

You're doing some absolute extrusions there in your startup gcode.
Check your slicer settings and be sure you're not using relative extrusions, if it's not calling M82/M83 when it should be then you've found a problem.
If you're not sure or don't know what you're looking at, share the whole gcode file in a pastebin or some shit.

>>2621407
Good choice anon, good printer.

>>2621413
I can't wait to try plugging it into one of those antique wall-sockets, I just have to find one.

Guys, aside from the Neptune 3 Pro, what about these Sovol printers? SV01 Pro and the SV06. Considering the discount and all, the price isn't much higher.

>>2621420
I have one in my house.

>>2621416
Thanks for the Info
>Again, if this "fixes" it, then the real problem is in your config
It did not fix it but it stopped printing a purge line. I also tried printing with a -1.85mm offset on Z, the left part is immaculate, the right half is bad again.

>I assume you're using Bilinear mesh leveling?
I'm using Unified Bed Leveling
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL
Also
#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
is set. Might this fuck with M420 S1?
>G29 S1 will set the movement rate between probing points to 1mm/s, it will not start an ABL sequence.
Ah! So I use G29 without any parameters to create a mesh as usual?

>You're doing some absolute extrusions there in your startup gcode.
Alright
>Check your slicer settings and be sure you're not using relative extrusions, if it's not calling M82/M83 when it should be then you've found a problem.
It does not use relative extrusions, pic related
>If you're not sure or don't know what you're looking at, share the whole gcode file in a pastebin or some shit.
You mean the bed level gcode, right? Sorry, am ESL and 'tistic.
https://pastebin.com/qgHYeZS7

>>2621423
One's slightly big-ish, the other is a clone of a ludicrously overpriced printer from 10 years ago.
They're not trash, just nothing I'd recommend to anyone, certainly not as a first printer.

>>2621427
If you're using UBL, the whole process is different.
G28
G29 P1
G29 P3
G29 P5 C
G29 S0

That sequence builds a mesh, populates any unprobed areas, finds the mean, then shifts the mesh to bring the mean height to 0mm, and finally saves it into the first slot.
Then your start gcode should have this in it:
G28
G29 L0
G29 J
That loads the saved mesh, and does a 3-point tilt of the mesh.
No M420 at all.
I don't actually recommend UBL if you have a bed less than 300mm square, it comes with its own completely different set of rules and headaches. It's well worth using for large beds, but a huge waste of time and effort for anything else unless your bed is an actual washboard.
Bilinear mesh leveling is *excellent* and plenty good enough for most setups while being easier to work with on the whole, at least in my opinion.

>>2621428
So Neptune is what you're saying?

>>2621435
From the selection at 3DJAKE currently, yeah, definitely.

>absolutely need print tomorrow by 7am
>started yesterday
>poop chute clogged notice at 3:30am
>it's now 9:30am
>estimate is 23h52m
is it possible it will hurry up and be done before 7am?

>>2621445
Anything's possible if you just believe anon.

>>2621432
I usually do UBL via the menu in the marlin interface. Currently testing it via gcode.

>I don't actually recommend UBL if you have a bed less than 300mm square, it comes with its own completely different set of rules and headaches. It's well worth using for large beds, but a huge waste of time and effort for anything else unless your bed is an actual washboard.
>Bilinear mesh leveling is *excellent* and plenty good enough for most setups while being easier to work with on the whole, at least in my opinion.
I know. I wouldn't have used a cannon to shoot at sparrows if I wasn't desperate.

>>2621445
>poop chute
if it's a bambu you can just increase the speed to sport (124%) or ludicrous (164%)

Every 3D printer brand I come across is Chinese and I don't necessarily want to give money to China. Any American or yuropean printer brands?

>>2621432
>>2621456
IT STILL DOES IT

>>2621460
https://www.prusa3d.com/category/3d-printers/

>>2621461
Everything is ruined forever.

>>2621460
Buy a Prusa.
For $850 you get all the performance and capability of a $200 Chinese printer, but with slightly (and only slightly) better quality control, and the experience of spending 8+ hours (according to Prusa) assembling it!

>>2621463
I have to print 8 cases until friday. I have no Idea how or what to do.
Gonna deep dive into Marlin it seems.

>>2621465
I'd be starting those prints on one of the other printers while troubleshooting this one, you should try that.

Without the dick in my mouth, I'd say start with some fresh example configs and do the -bare minimum- to get ABL working. Good luck, anon.

>>2621467
>I'd be starting those prints on one of the other printers while troubleshooting this one, you should try that.
I have no other printers lmao.
>Without the dick in my mouth, I'd say start with some fresh example configs and do the -bare minimum- to get ABL working. Good luck, anon.
That's homosexual. I mean the dick in the mouth thing.

I'll try the fresh configs thing.

you guys printing anything cool lately?

>>2621476
Fuck yes, I'm breaking free from the bonds of Chinese suppliers and printing my own heater blocks. Worried about heat though, so I added some slots to help with cooling.

>>2621481
wouldn't those melt?

>>2621482
>I added some slots to help with cooling
It should be fine I think.

>>2621481
oh lawd

How would I go about adjusting my X axis so I don't have to use z-hop on a ender 3 neo? I never used to have to use it until I tried to install a filament guide and unscrewed the thing the z screw goes into. I couldn't get the fucking screw out. Screwed it back in and ever since I've had to use z-hop as I assume its wonky now

Hypothetical question. I am just curious. Would I be able to 3D print a gun and kill myself with it? Would the material be strong enough to shoot a bullet? Not that I want to or intend to. Asking for science.

>>2621544
For 3D printing firearms, there are basically two options. You either print some components and make the other ones out of steel from a hardware shop. DIY rifling etc. In this case you'd be 3D printing gunsmithing tools and jigs, and doing electrolytic rifling. Such a gun will be strong enough to fire loads of bullets.
You can also 3D print the whole gun. In this case you get a single-shot weapon that may just explode in your hand instead. Sounds like you want the latter. Think the Liberator, less a gun than a disposable bullet trigger.

If you just want something to kill yourself with, it would work. But you'd still need to find actual ammunition, you can't print bullets. Frankly, the risk of it blowing up in your hand instead, or the risk of wasting too much energy because it doesn't really have a barrel per se would make me wary of 3D printed guns as a suicide method. Just buy a nitrogen tank and a gas mask instead, zero chance of accidentally maiming yourself instead.

>>2620994
bought my halot one* and some resin from them back in december and everything went fine.


*no bulli pls

>>2621550
Yeah that's what I was gonna ask next. Could I print bullets and if there's a risk of it malfunctioning. Imagine trying to off yourself and just wounding yourself really badly instead and ruining the rest of your miserable life instead. Hypothetically.

>>2621554
Don't print a gun to kill yourself with, it's idiotic. EIther just buy one (easy enough even in gun control countries, it's just expensive, but if you're killing yourself money is kind of a moot point anyway) or kill yourself some other way.

I'm not the type to lecture against suicide. If you're miserable you're miserable, I can't judge your mindset/life and it's yours to waste if you want to. I recommend hanging or the gas mask options, they're the least likely to fail and basically painless (hanging is instant when you do it right, gassing is just like going to sleep).

>>2621555
Nah I'm not killing myself and I was wondering about 3D printing related methods only anyways, to be on topic. Doubt you can print a proper gas mask.

>>2621558
A plastic bag is a good enough gas mask, all you want is something that lets you displace exhaled carbon dioxide. Absolutely 3D printable.

>>2621558
>Doubt you can print a proper gas mask.
Now that's much more achievable. I'd print it in TPU and embed glass or polycarbonate lenses into the mask, threaded connectors in Nylon, print some molds to make proper silicone gaskets for the necessary bits. Could go for a full polymer GP-7 look.

>>2621561
Actually yeah I guess. Maybe with that one flexible and squishy filament. Forgot what it was. I saw someone print gaskets for his car using it which is really cool.

>>2621564
>Maybe with that one flexible and squishy filament. Forgot what it was.
>>2621562
>TPU

>>2621562
Sounds elaborate. Now I'm wondering if I could 3D print accessories for a cool halloween costume. Masks and stuff.

>>2621566
Standard affair for 3D printers, they've completely revolutionized cosplay, you could absolutely print some cool costume shit.

>>2621567
Do you have any cool prints of yours to post?

>>2621365
>Swap Nozzle from hardened steel to Brass
>Right side doesn't sag anymore
>Left side sags now
WHAT IN THE ACTUAL FUCK IS GOING ON

>>2621570
No I exclusively print garbage, like this bitch I popped out while servicing a printer last week.

>>2621599
That looks clean. What printer gets you these results?

>>2621600
That was a KP3S Pro, but don't get too excited.
While they're perfectly good printers, I've been impressed, this filament is very good at hiding certain types of defects. It is particularly good at making organic models look smoother and cleaner than they may with other filaments, great for shiny sluts and articulated dragons while totally garbage for anything structural/mechanical.

If I have material oozing from the heatblock (both heatbreak and nozzle side), what does that mean?

>>2620464
>>2620576
Turns out that the hot-end fan solder joint came loose and shorted out. Now it's being written off. Ah, retail.

>>2621365
I am a noob but could this be underextrusion? Estep calibration may help and maybe your filament has poor quality (inconsistent diameter)? Check with calipers.

>>2621615
It means your nozzle and heatbreak aren't tightened correctly and you're getting leaks.
You want the nozzle and heatbreak to meet, with neither bottoming out on the heater block.
Then, at a high temperature, you snug up the nozzle. If you omit this last step, you're gonna get leaks.

Look at the hotend on the right-hand side of this photo.
>>2621481
You can see where the brass nozzle is meeting the titanium heatbreak, they're snugly meshed together.
The nozzle isn't quite touching the block, you can see the gap, but it is very close.
This is what you want, the nozzle and heatbreak are tightened against eachother, and the nozzle is deep in the block without bottoming out on the block.
Ignore the hotend on the left, that's tossed together without consideration and would be a jam-o-matic piece of shit.

This is a common problem. Clean up as much of the leakage as possible with a paper towel while the hotend is at temp, it'll wipe off readily, just don't burn yourself. See if you can snug it a little while it's cold, takes very little torque, the heater block is soft and you'll rape it instantly if you go ape on it. Then get it up to temp, higher than your normal printing temp, and tighten it.
Again, doesn't take much torque, 3Nm == 26.5 inch-lbs == ~2ft-lbs.
If this doesn't alleviate the problem, you might need to disassemble, clean more thoroughly, and reassemble, but in my experience I can usually kill a leak without having to tear the hotend down so long as I catch it early enough.

>>2621632
Good suggestions, but definitely not these things. From other posts we know his extrusion flowrate is good, maaaybe even excessive.
As for poor quality filament, it's been years and hundreds of rolls of filament since I last got one that was out of spec, and I buy a shitload of Chinese bottom-dollar filament. Last I can recall was some MakerGeeks PLA when that business took a shit and started shipping garbage-tier filament and then went out of business, that was 6 or 7 years ago now.
It's definitely not impossible, never hurts to check, but it's incredibly rare these days and just not the issue it was 5 - 10 years ago thankfully.

Not bad suggestions though anon, keep at it.

What's some modern 3d scanning software. Just with a camera. Shits gotta exist, it's not 2017 anymore.

>>2621639
Fuck it's been forever since I've thought about MakerGeeks. They at one time, for a brief while, made some very nice filament including some really lovely, easy printing, and strong PLA.
Their QC started degrading in around 2016 for whatever reason, but by the time they shut down in 2019 they had really shit the bed, shipping tons of unusable garbage (slowly at first), up until the point that they stopped shipping all-together, blamed "bad press" and "growing too quickly" for all their problems and shut down completely leaving shitloads of people with unfulfilled orders and countless more still waiting for refunds for the trash they'd been receiving. They did this while simultaneously trying to start up business under a new name to get away from their well-deserved reputation. A nice "we're gone so sorry ask your bank about your cash goodbye forever" all while trying to reorganize under a new name and keep the scam going. Because that's what it was at the end, once they stopped actually shipping anything at all but were still accepting orders it stopped being a shitty company and became just a scam.
They started up again as "Filament Geeks" and claimed they just "bought the equipment" from MakerGeeks and were totally unrelated otherwise.
Joshua Smith was the faggot behind it all, moved to Spring Texas after shutting down the short-lived FilamentGeeks name.

Infamous in 3D printing "history" or whatever, you can easily find 9 million and one reddit posts, BBB complaints, news stories, forum discussions ...

>>2621645
Polycam, Meshroom.

>>2621639
You're right. I also didn't catch the scraping bit he mentioned in his post. I just saw the uneven surfaces and then wrote my post. Thank you for explaining your point of view. I am still very new to 3D printing.

>>2620736
Found zach promoting his latest thing.

I have a big 3D printing idea and I can't wait to get my printer!

I started having problems with my KP3S Pro S1 that I upgraded to a 2mm lead screw after switching to PursaSlicer, Z would stop moving mid print, found the jumpers to disable microstepping 3200 steps/mm is now 400 steps/mm. Hopefully I didn't fry that stepper driver.

>>2621685
Those TMC2225's are stout, and that printer has good (enough) cooling for the mainboard. If it's not dead yet, then I doubt you've hurt it. Good job figuring out the jumpers to fix that shit.

>>2621675
right after you upgrade everything

Looks like the lens spacing didn't help. My last option is to try making eccentric lens spacers, to try and force the lens to be on an angle relative to the laser. Otherwise I guess I'll just live with the lower tolerance, it will be fine so long as I don't want traces thinner than 0.4mm or so.

weird question bois, any idea where to get VC in this space?

>45 minutes left on a 2 day print

Making a small shelf for a figure. 45 degree angle should come out ok shouldn't it with a 0.28mm layer height right?

Maybe I should just get a plastic sheet and just print supports to use that as the shelf cos I got a feeling it wont be easy to get this off the glass bed

>>2621998
put something where the blue line is like a chamfer or fillet. also punch a shape into the back of the back legs to add strength without entering rectangle you're hanging it over. the big problem is oriented like that your shear line will be at the base of the 3 back feet.

>>2621998
also rotate 90º so it prints on the 3 back feet. that will fix the shear and make it easier to remove.