/diy/ - Do It Yourself

First.

I had talked to my mom a lot about how I wanted a 3D printer. She was my best friend. She died right before Christmas and I bought one not long after to get my mind off of it. She didn't want a funeral, but a celebration of life party. My sister didn't assign me too many duties for the party because I wasn't dealing with it well but I volunteered to make pots for the flowers she was going to use as centerpieces. She wanted purple and pink so I got some silk PLA. Turned out a lot better than I was expecting.

>>2611899
Sorry for your loss, anon

>>2611899
it's not much but sorry for your loss anon
and that pot does look good

>>2611899
I'm sure she appreciates that.

>>2611899
Very good job anon.

>two pics in the OP of my same bullshit failed sketchup print that i fixed with a soldering iron
have another pic lmao

>>2611805 Its an overengineered solution to a simple problem. With decent quality lead screw and oldham coupler results would be the same.

So, what's the deal with Delta printers? They seemingly have a few advantages over other kinematic systems, including speed in all directions, with the only major drawback of being much taller.
Why are they not more popular? Do they have some other disadvantage or do they just not have any advantage for 3D printing applications over, for example, CoreXY?

>>2611986
They're just a shit gimmick printer. ignore them. if you aren't going to do the standard bed slinger, immediately go go the core-xy printers. Literally every other design is a shitty marketing gimmick.
They are constrained to a tiny fucking circle and are twice as tall as they need to be minimum. Their build area is a tiny fucking circle and to get it bigger you have to massively increase the height for every unit of horizontal build area. Its just a fucking meme. Their claim to fame is a smaller footprint than a bed slinger, but a core-xy is that already. delta printers exist for niche "oo look at me I'm so different" people that don't actually use their printers other than printing vases.

Yes I'm angry I hate the design of them its so dumb.

>>2612005
I specifically asked for any other disadvantages they have over other kinematics systems, as size isn't my primary concern.
But thanks for your opinion anyways.

>>2612010
Yeah their disadvantages are they are tall as fuck and have a small as fuck build area for their massive size.
>verification not required.
even captcha knows I'm right

>>2612012
Why would size even matter? It's not like I'm going to move it around every day, it's just going to sit on a corner, and it's much easier to find room for a tall device than a wide one.

So what's up with Hatchbox's PETG? I am looking to start printing some items that will need to live in the car, and was gonna go with Polymaker's PETG offerings, but Hatchbox claims that their PETG is Hydrophobic and doesn't need a heated bed.

What is the catch? Am I being lied to?

>>2611986
They do have an advantage if you need small printhead footprint. For example, they were used to develop slightly curved 3D printing (see curvislicer for example), as the frame never collides with the print. It's fucking niche anyways, just buy a coreXY.

>>2612025
>just buy
Wrong board dude, why do you think I asked about Deltas in general instead of looking into specific printers?

>>2612028
>>TWO people telling you to ignore it and its a meme and just buy a corexy
>WRONG BOARD DUDE IM ASKING QUESTIONS I DON'T ACTUALLY WANT YOUR OPINION
dude just fuck off and buy your autism niche printer. stop shilling your shitty kickstarter printer. You clearly don't want an actual good viable product for size and print volume.
There is NO reason to buy a delta printer over a corexy
If you aren't buying a bed slinger, you should buy a corexy
There is NEVER a reason to buy a delta outside of wanting to be a niche hipster

>>2612028
>I asked about Deltas in general instead of looking into specific printers
ALL DELTAS ARE BAD BY DESIGN
YOU SHOULD ALWAYS IGNORE IT AND GET A COREXY

>>2612033
I didn't ask for your opinion, i asked you WHY they are worse than other printers, OTHER THAN size. I already get that they are not popular, no need to state the obvious.
>dude just fuck off and buy your autism niche printer
I thought I made it obvious that I'm not looking to buy anything.
>You clearly don't want an actual good viable product for size and print volume
Correct. I want an actual good viable product for cost and simplicity. I am not interested in size.

>>2612034
>ALL DELTAS ARE BAD BY DESIGN
Bad in what way? Are they slower, more expensive, have worse print quality? Please explain to me, what makes Deltas worse excluding their larger size.

>>2612038
This is the best choice for you. Its cheap as fuck, has infinite build volume, and takes up no space.
If you argue with this, everything you have said so far is proof you are just trying to be a contrarian baiting for (You)s.
Its cheap
It has infinite build volume
It has infinite print quality (lmao get steadier hands)
Its as fast as you can move

>>2612039
>Doesn't answer my question
Then don't give me that (You), asshole. If you don't want to help me then don't reply to me.

>>2612048
>what makes these printers bad
>literally TOLD in the first reply what makes them bad
>here is why these are bad and you should instead look at corexy because all the advantages of that printer are surpassed by the corexy
>WHY ARE YOU TELLING ME TO LOOK AT COREXY? I'M ASKING ABOUT DELTA???
Just because you don't even READ the responses doesn't mean you aren't retarded.

>>2612014
>Why would size even matter?
Cuz when you make a structure bigger, your shit gets like, all fucked up, r-tard.
larger mid-format printers are already noticeably slower than the smaller counterparts ,especially due to increased belt length and also flex in the extrusions, so it becomes a much more involved engineering problem because you have to troubleshoot those issues and it will slow down your design process 10x.
I've seen a research paper on high temp inverted delta printer which allows the hot air to stay at the top of the chamber, and the steppers are as far away as possible.
>>2612033
>stop shilling your shitty kickstarter printer
>There is NEVER a reason to buy a delta outside of wanting to be a niche hipster
summer >>>>>/v/>
>>2611948
>With decent quality lead screw and oldham coupler
The Trident is a moving bed and the 2.4 has the four-point gantry.
>an overengineered solution
In both of these cases most of the engineering is done already. Can you retrofit those oldham couplers onto the existing design?
>I'm wondering if the voron 2.4 is really worth the effort over a trident.
Neither of them is really that much more effort to build. The 2.4 triggers me because the gantry has to flex and it's not theoretically ideal, and the trident triggers me because the bed moves, which is fckin dumb.
Check out the bed mounting on the K3, it's got those ball bearing linear rods which look like the most autistiperfect(TM) solution possible.
If your goal is reduced Z-banding, you should build whatever and instead put effort into troubleshooting that later, which may have more to do with the extruder. But the trident has external steppers (better for high temperature) and better thermal distribution and the 2.4 has much lower CG.

>>2612051
>regurgitates buying advice
>possesses negligible technical knowledge
>scorns curiosity; thinks experimentation is a waste of time
>posts on children's cartoon forums
Shouldn't you be begging for yu-gi-oh! STL files on Discord or something?
>>2612038
>I thought I made it obvious that I'm not looking to buy anything.
I'm so glad you asked me for buying advice.
Why don't one of you fuckers stop shitposting for twelve seconds and build one of these? On paper it looks like the absolute best build quality you can get from common fdm components. All the linear hardware is oversized and it's very simple, which everybody agrees is the key to getting great prints. Plus, it's open-source so you don't have to suck Prusaman's dick. The only thing I'm not convinced about is the bed mounting system, but it's still leaps and bounds ahead of the regular fucking shill shit you all are obsessed with. One of you animu fucks needs to build one and post pictures for science.

>>2612061
Delta printers are objectively shitty niche hipster printers. Cry about it
>>>>>>>>>>>r-tard
Oh so you ARE actually a child pretending to know anything
>>structure bigger, your shit gets like, all fucked up
>someone actually typed this out
>someone actually thought it was smart to type all those commas and actually unironically using "like" in text as though they were speaking
like, like you should totally like, get like, a delta printer like ya know? its like, really good like yeah? you don't like, want a literally bigger print bed because like, it would get worse like print quality. Please like ignore that like this isn't true if you don't buy like an ender 3 clone ya know?
Its not like good large scale printers made from companies that aren't like Creality are like actually good and dont like suffer from bad bent frames literally like
>z-banding
>extruder
MY GUY WHAT ARE YOU DOING
If you care that much about Z-banding you should look into disconnecting the bed from the z axis screws using some double plate on ball bearings system that allows the bed to shift and keep level as the screws wobble.

>>2612061
>>2612038
Also, search for "3d printed kayak" and read that guy's blog. He designed and built a very large delta printer. One of the things he talks about is the amount of backlash in the ball joints, and he said he had to use magnets or something.
>Which product should I buy? general

>>2612077
>bad bent frames literally
in your entire life, have you ever measured the deviation in an aluminum extrusion using anything other than your eyeballs? The way you spout brand names and products, it sounds like you're just regurgitating some bullshit you read somewhere.
>>2612077
>some double plate on ball bearings system
You have access to the Internet and presumably a 3d printer, why don't you go design one real quick? Do you want me to fedex you some ball bearings?

>>2612086
>aluminum extrusion
stopped reading right there. If you're buying ender 3 clones in different shapes thats your fault. maybe try better quality parts next time

>>2611890
what is the best (as in difficulty/quality ratio) reprap model to build as someone inexperienced?

>>2612068 Looks like a fancy freetard Kingroon KP3S Pro clone. 3 times the cost and not even assembled.

>>2612091
>fancy
Yeah, that's the key. It's the minimum amount of complexity and max rigidity, which should result in the best print quality.
>Kingroon KP3S Pro clone
this one looks ok. I still think the bed springs are stupid, but if it's a small enough bed then it probably doesn't matter.
>and not even assembled
that's an advantage to some people.
>>2612090
>wuz da best hurr durr
u gotta put more effort into these type of shitposts, that's exactly what you ctrl+V into the Google.

>>2612096
You're not supposed to support the gantry from the stepper like that. the stepper rotor is not there to constrain motion in the other fucking axis, it's just a stepper rotor. that's what bearing blocks are for.
You could always buy that working printer for cheap and fix all this shit on your own. Or just leave it, probably doesnt matter anyway.
sage

>>2612103 It is not a critical issue. Almost all of the printers are using steppers with small axial load. Sure stepper rotor do have some play along the axis, but it is irrelevant while it is moving in one direction.

>>2610927
>>2611307
>learning CAD
nice. stick with it. It's worth it.
I"m working on having the entire project done in CAD before I start building. All the wiring, final component placements, etc.
Currently I sort of half-ass it, as soon as there's something I have to think about I just send it and fix it later. Having everything planned out ahead of time is a lot harder, also demotivating, because you get to the end of the week and nothing exists except some shitty computer files. But it's gonna be much fucking less shitty, even the simple things like cutting wiring harnesses without having a fucking cloth measuring tape suit-fitting extravaganza, or the fact that you can make a panel template once and not drill twenty additional holes over the next two months. It's going to be a game-changer for me for sure. once I git gud.
>pic
water cooling pump control thing. I'm gonna remake this one bigger. it fits in CAD, but will suck to assemble.

>>2612061
>larger mid-format printers are already noticeably slower than the smaller counterparts ,especially due to increased belt length and also flex in the extrusions
>>2612078
>Also, search for "3d printed kayak" and read that guy's blog. He designed and built a very large delta printer. One of the things he talks about is the amount of backlash in the ball joints, and he said he had to use magnets or something.

So it's a rigidity issue. Thanks for giving me an actual answer for once.

>>2612023
no clue about the brands but I wouldn't put anything that's not ASA/ABS inside your car anon, PETG still fine for outdoors

Is it possible to use two ender3 style extruders with y-spliter as simple dual filament MMU2/ERCF alternative?

>>2612146
Ah by I mean in the car, I mean just like in the cabin, not anywhere near the engine bay.

So the chamfered model ending up working for my problem with overhang. Lesson learned on dovetails, just do the angle. Probably .25mm too small on the male end but I think it should be fine and can always go back and change if needed.

>>2612038

>>2612180
>>2612130

>>2612153
Yeah exactly that, it will get too hot for PETG inside the cabin of a car unless you always, always park in shade or a garage without fail.

The interior of your car can exceed 70C on a warm day, which is enough to rape PLA that hasn't been annealed, and just enough to start relieving stresses in PETG prints.
They won't fall to shit like PLA prints, but they'll warp significantly, and if not printed well they'll start to delaminate.

PETG isn't totally unserviceable in a car, but ABS, ASA, or an ABS+ that contains either PC or PETG would all be better choices.
ABS is also ~15-20% less dense than PETG, so you can get significantly more for your money, 1kg of PETG is about ~325m, PLA ~370m, ABS ~395m.

Wonder how few people in this thread get why it's called 3DPG. Crazy how old I can feel.
What's with these filament diameter sensors? Any good?

>>2612238
>why is it called 3dpg
Theres no fucking way. I refuse to believe there are people are too dumb to not get it instantly

>>2612240
If you think this, you don't get that it's called 3DPG because it's a pun on 3D PIG DISGUSTING.

Is it worth modding the bambu p1p with an enclosure? Im getting very slight curling at the edges of big rectangular boxes and wonder if its due to a heat issue that could be solved with an enclosure.

>>2612238
Those sensors suck dick.
The small ones, the "simple" ones are garbage and only useful as an overpriced filament runout sensor.
The hall-effect/roller style ones like what Tommy Sandladderman designed are "okay," they can be very accurate if they're made well and used correctly, but they're physically large and kind of useless.
If you make your own filament and want to DIY something to monitor your shit, then it's a solid option, but it's completely useless hooked up to a printer.

The IR ones are TRASH, real-world accuracy of +/- ~0.5mm, totally useless for filament. Just failed DIY projects being resold by chinks.

The computer-vision based systems with the mirrors and cameras work, they work insanely well with low-end hardware, I'm surprised to not see more people playing with the idea, I learned about it from a paper that's over a decade old now: https://arxiv.org/ftp/arxiv/papers/2012/2012.00191.pdf
I think it's a genuinely attractive option going forward. Basic little cameras and overpowered microcontrollers are cheap and common, people even use the $5 ESP32-CAM for computer-vision and tinyml shit. Something self-contained, little box with a couple of tiny mirrors, LEDs, camera, MCU, constantly measuring the diameter of whatever is in the chamber and spitting it out with UART or SPI. Marlin already facilitates "filament width sensors" for real-time flow correction.

>>2612253
Yes, just don't pay for one of the $100 - $200 kits, that's fucked. $50-$100 is "normal" for common acrylic kits you can find easily.
There are many options, lots of designs, lots of plans, lots of kits. If you go DIY, you can stretch your budget to do cool unnecessary things.
For example, sure you can send off the files and have things cut out acrylic if you want, but there are tons of material options.
20ga steel is usually about the same price as 1/8" acrylic from laser/plasma services.
Want some custom painted panels without paying for acrylic you'll paint over anyway? You can have them lasered out of hardboard for cheaper than most acrylic kits, hit it with a fire retardant like No-Burn, then you can paint or otherwise customize from there. The hardboard is a better insulator than acrylic too.

Remember to read what Bambu says about enclosing your P1P, if you don't it's your own fault when you fuck up your printer: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/manual/precautions-for-P1P-enclosure

>>2612005
The delta anon is going to be pissed when he sees this...

First attempt at printing abs on my kingroon kp3s pro, had set the bed to 115c and the nozzle to 140c and put a bag over the printer. I will have to reprint the small piece but otherwise happy with the results.

>>2611890
Is there a go to for 1:10 printed rc car designs?

Want something I can absolutely thrash and have fun with and not feel any sort of remorse as basically anything that could break is printed. I'm fully capable of printing nylon so I can even make gears.

Would do something like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42198 but it requires a very specific part that's only available in Europe for some reason

>>2612360
Smart print, good job anon.
What bed have you got on there?

>>2612369
it's the optional PEI plate that kingroon sells with the printer. the ABS stuck pretty well at 115c.

>>2612360
it took a few more tries to get the small piece to print without warping, the key take away, turn the fan down. I can now print without a bag over the machine.

>>2612244
Not him, but if that wasn't an intended reference, is there a better name anyway? It's hardly an intentional reference if you didn't change any of the letters to make it. Unless it's the capitalisation of the title that's the intentional change? I can kinda see that, other generals have lower-case acronyms, except for /HAM/.

>>2612360
Yes, good... Now vapor smooth those parts and your transformation will be complete!
You won't be able to GIVE away your PLA, by the way. Nobody uses that shit anymore.

>>2612428
Brims are your friends, anywhere from 10-15 lines depending on part warp tendency. Also, .25mm first layer can get you some squish to help with adhesion, and it makes the brim beefier. Fan on after layer 4.

>>2612360
Dont be shy with temps. 120 bed on first layer. 110 after that. 260 on extruder.
>>2612381
Trash it and use glass with spray 3d print glue. Last resort measure is gluestick. Works okay on open frame printers, but will destroy glass on an enclosed ones.
>>2612442
Brim is joke. Use 20mm tabs on corners. Last resort measure is draft shield.
On a flat surface thick first layer is not needed. But wide first layer is good. Set it to 150%

Laser anon here, I want to turn the laser on and off quickly, and I suspect the fan pin on my Creality 4.2.2 board just can't do that by default. It's set up as a PWM pin with a really low frequency (7Hz or whatever), and I think it only updates the output once per cycle. Even when going from 255 to 0.

So I want to toggle the unused BLtouch solenoid pin instead, but I don't know how to do so. I've seen M42s and such thrown about, but some places say I need to enable some sort of mode on my printer, or even write custom C code into marlin or its config file. I also need to know what pin to use, the marlin site says "digital pin number", but I just know the IC pin PB0 from the schematic. Is this info in the config files of marlin somewhere? I can't find any references to PB0 on this github:
https://github.com/zisismaras/ender_3_4.2.2_firmware/
What the hell defines the pins?

>>2611899
Not sure whether this helps but it's just about sixty years until you're gonna see her again.
Life is short, but the afterlife is eternal. Enough time to catch up.

>>2612503
Marlin\src\pins\yourboard.h
That's where pins are defined, but ignore that, that's not where you're going!

Marlin has native support for lasers that you should be using, this hacky shit is making things harder.
Just use it as a fucking laser and you can use the normal Marlin gcodes for lasers, M3 and M5.

Get into Configuration_adh.h, go down to
> // @section cnc
> /**
> * Spindle & Laser control
Uncomment //#define LASER_FEATURE
This is also where you can customize PWM control, add air assist, whatever the fuck.
Make sure #define LASER_SAFETY_TIMEOUT_MS is defined, I'd leave it at the default 1000ms.
You may need LASER_POWER_SYNC, I don't know in your setup, read that section and keep it in mind.

You can also find //#define LASER_SYNCHRONOUS_M106_M107
That's specifically for when you're running a laser off your fan pin and want to use M106/M107 without the delay that you're describing.
Marlin specifically states that it's hacky shit and while it works, the normal 'synchronous' mode is faster and better for trying to do shit like raster images.

But what about the pins?
If you want to use fan_pin hacky bullshit mode, you're already done. I wouldn't recommend it though.
Instead, in Configuration_adv.h, right under #define LASER_FEATURE, add this shit:
>#define SPINDLE_LASER_PWM_PIN PA4
Change to your preference, PA4 is the filament runout sensor, the BLTouch port gives you PB0 (servo) and PB1 (probe), PB13 is the beeper pin from the LCD cable if you want to steal that away.
Do NOT use the LCD beeper pin if you don't have a standard CR10/Ender3 display.

gl;hf

can someone tell me whats the point of getting a resin printer when you can just make molds with an fdm printer to cast resin in

>>2611899
very nice anon, and I'm so sorry for your loss. may her memory be a blessing and may 3D printing bring you comfort -- sincerely.

>>2612753
SLA (resin) printers are a lot more accurate than any FDM printer could ever be. There's a reason people use resin for small, precise, or decorative prints.

>>2611899
I didn't realize how much better these look in the sunlight.

>>2612753
because layer lines exist in the negative as well

>>2611899
you should have replied

>>2611902
>>2611903
>>2611909
>>2611911
>>2612559
>>2612754
Thanks guys. I appreciate it. Turns out the opening is a bit too narrow so I'll have to tweak it a bit or find a different design.

>>2612787
It's just like my mom is still alive.

>be me
>skr mini 1.3
>chasing intermittent extrusion issues
>print randomly skips or under extrudes layers
>finally spergs out and starts beeping with E1 heating failed
>24v on E1 open circuit
>nothing with load on
>picrel, $8 fix
Thank you for reading my blog.
The chicken lamp is enclosure heater.

>>2611986
I love my delta but after 2-3 years of printing circles are starting to be a little ovular, so I might need to look into that. The real drawback is small bed size.

>>2612005
>They're just a shit gimmick printer.
your mom is a shit gimmick.

>>2612039
Yesterday I fixed my Tacoma center console button with my 3D pen. 3D pens have their place and are a different use case than printers.

>>2612800
I use mine for half-assed plastic welding all the time, works great, especially for large prints that don't need to be strong.
I've used it in place of screws too, which is a terrible thing to do and works a treat.

I've also loaded it with TPU and used it instead of screws to mount HDDs, because fuck it. Silent as the grave.

>>2612647
>Just use it as a fucking laser and you can use the normal Marlin gcodes for lasers, M3 and M5
>Uncomment //#define LASER_FEATURE
Will that interfere with my ability to use it as a 3D printer at all? And what frequency is the PWM? If it's the same bullshit 7Hz it won't be any better than using the fan PWM, but I can't imagine that will be the case.

PA4 has a voltage divider in it that means the output can only range from 1.65V to 3.3V. Would need to do more fucking around to get that working, since my laser's PWM input signal needs to go down to 0.5V to properly turn off. PB0 and PB1 are both without voltage dividers, so would work much better. Even if I want to add a BLtouch in the future, I can just make sure my laser is unplugged before I level the printer. I've got an e3v2 with its updated colour display so the beeper probably won't work.

Trying to compile it using PlatformIO now, we'll see how that goes.

Thanks for all the help.

Have an UP Mini 2 and want it to run on Cura. Anyone have the settings for that? Only thing that I can remotely find is for Simplify3D and the g-code instructions just don't transfer. Been fighting this bastard, on and off, for a couple of years now.

>>2612860
>Will that interfere with my ability to use it as a 3D printer at all?
Nope
> And what frequency is the PWM?
You define it
>#define SPINDLE_LASER_FREQUENCY
Technically you can set it to whatever the fuck you want, in reality 78kHz is a pretty universally "safe" limit.

Give this a read: https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/2.0.9/laser_spindle.html
It's the official documentation for the whole laser and spindle control feature.
You can define a PWM signal pin and power on/off pin separately to control your laser if you want, it's the better way to go if it's an option for your setup.
You need to define both SPINDLE_LASER_ENA_PIN and SPINDLE_LASER_PWM_PIN, the bltouch port is perfect.

Marlin's laser support is "pretty" solid all things considered, and it can be used alongside all the 3D printing functionality without losing anything between them.

If you have a milling toolhead alongside a printhead, SuperSlicer natively supports using it every layer or every few layers to refine the part. I've never seen anyone use this feature aside from simulating it to demonstrate that it should work, but there ya go, neat stuff.

>>2612861

Are you able to see what controller board it is and at least what chipset?

>>2612871
>Technically you can set it to whatever the fuck you want, in reality 78kHz is a pretty universally "safe" limit.
In my case the laser driver IC wants no more than 20kHz, and lower than 5kHz is recommended.
>You need to define both SPINDLE_LASER_ENA_PIN and SPINDLE_LASER_PWM_PIN
Do I need to connect the enable pin to anything if I just use the PWM pin to feed the laser driver?
>milling
I'll use it as a drilling machine for PCBs at least. Not sure if that will put more stress on my machine than running the laser with high acceleration.

I just bought a Creality CR-M4. Tell me how fucked I am.

>>2612912
it will shatter into a million pieces on arrival and its all your fault

>>2612912
>Creality CR-M4
Because buying a >$1,000 bedslinger (kek) wasn't bad enough, you had to go and buy a Chinese one.
No sympathy for your massive waste of money, please keep us posted when you start printing 18.5" tall futa vases.

>>2612912
>Creality CR-M4
why, exactly?

>>2612993
Just wait for it.
>I wanted a large build volume from a trustworthy brand

>"Quasi-Industrial Grade"
>800W Power Supply
>Linear Rails on Y-Axis only
>Dual 500mm+ long 8mm Z-axis leadscrews

Absolute trash. Could've bought any other random <$500 Chinese large-format, but nope, really wanted the Creality one with the pretty touchscreen for $1100. Enjoy printing with 300mm/s/s accelerations and visible ringing.

>>2611899
my mom died in feb. I know your feel.

>>2612919
>>2612921
>>2613001
Awesome. Now tell me what I should buy instead.

>>2613017
Depends what you want in a printer.
Want to spend that budget and get more for your money? P1P

Looking for a large-format printer with dimensions >= 400mm? Elegoo Neptune 3 Max ($470) or Anycubic Kobra Max ($550)
Both are entirely comparable to the CR-10 Max and the new CR-M4 that's replaced it.
The Elegoo Neptune 3 Max is in my opinion higher quality than the M4, but that's splitting hairs with Chinese printers.
The CR-M4 should've been $500, but they fucked it, massively overpriced with NO justification.

For the price of the M4, you could buy a Neptune 3 Max AND a Creality K1, and still have $30 left for filament.

Is there something I can coat a 3d print with to improve looks and adhesion?

>>2613036
>Is there something I can coat a 3d print with to improve looks and adhesion?
Like a coat of sanded primer and a few rounds of paint?
Nope, no such thing.

>>2613023
Thanks for that. I'm still in the 30 day return window and I haven't unpacked it yet. I want to make car parts like interior panels, custom airboxes, and other large square things.

>>2613023
I forgot to add. Any recommendations for a printer near 500mm?

>>2613042
Prusa XXL

>>2612912
>creality
>even once
your ancestors weep in shame

>>2613042
Prusa XXL

>everything out of stock everywhere
I'll just keep the bug printer then

What's with all the hating on delta's in this thread?
https://youtu.be/-zK-aigGIc4

>>2613097
Delta's are amazing.
If you don't need your lines to be straight and you have high ceilings then really what's the downside aside from cost relative to build volume and the precision lost to the kinematics?
Honestly I'd have a lot less to shit on if there were more competitive ones on the market.
Malyan M300/Monoprice Mini Delta, the FLSun Super Racer, and uh, that's it, that's all the good Delta's right now with remotely competitive pricing.

Trilab's printers are fun to look at, they're owned by Prusa and the price reflects that. When Prusa took them over, whole product line disappears, replaced rapidly with "new" product line with tiny revisions but everything costs 50% - 90% more than it did previously, and they were already pricey. That bearded shit-gargler just can't help himself.

>Prusa announces they have bought Creality
>The new Ender 3 S1.5 arrives next week for only $899, now exclusively available in Orange, with upgraded beeper noise.

Does ANYONE know how to reassemble a belt tensioner that has a little triangular prism in it?

>>2613162
Maybe with a photo, your description means nothing.

>>2613144
>now exclusively available in Orange, with upgraded beeper noise
would buy

>>2613168
here it is. for the Mingda Magician x

recent prints for friends. everyone is like, what do you need a 3d printer for? then they come back with requests.

>>2613181
I'm hoping/assuming you have the knob somewhere.
I fucking hate those tensioners and would print a "normal" one to replace it entirely, but that's just my preference.

>>2613218
I have the knob. I'll 100% print it on my other printer right now if you have a file, I just don't know what's compatible with the Mingda gantry

>>2613218
my problem is the knob "slips out" of the slot in the assembly of the left

>>2613229
Was going to link you straight to it aaaand it's gone.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5893003

Well fuck.
Looks like a 15T pulley. The fuck is that gantry extrusion? Looks like 10x30mm or 15x45mm? I assume it's not 2060. There may be other options for a tensioner.
This really fucking annoying, the company doesn't publish any info, doesn't sell the tensioner, and not one fucking review even mentions the uncommon gantry extrusion because every fucking review is soft-serve-shill-shit and doesn't actually talk about the machine at all beyond their approved buzz-words list.
Using a default profile to slice and print a model then critiquing the quality of it is not a review of a 3D printer, fucking waste of time.
It wouldn't be hard to adapt another belt tensioner design to it, if I had a reference model or a Magician in front of me I'd do it right now.

>>2612894
It's completely sealed but I found this which shows everything in detail.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgW_RGpka6M

>>2613201
LOVE that xeno model. Glad to see I wasn't the only one that had trouble with the tail tip too. Though yours looks way nicer than mine.

>>2613287
nice. the underside on mine is kind of a mess because of the supports though, I haven't figured out the best way to do those yet

>>2613314
Ahh, I printed mine in parts. I still have that undeerside issue though. Doesn't seem to matter how many top/bottom skin layers I add.

>>2613314
>>2613337
tree supports helps a lot, but there is also a setting for z distance to supports, so like leave a 0.2mm gap between the support print and the layer print. You can snug this up, but basically if you make it too small the supports will be welded. Pretty sure you can get lower than the default for whatever profile you're printing, but it varies a bit by print - just have to experiment.

>>2613358
I'm the upmini2 guy looking for the cura info (and >>2613287). I've have a leapfrog printer that is no longer working atm but was able to try tree supports when they were in beta and I loved them. Unfortunately, the UM2 uses a proprietary slicer that is basic at best so it's not an option for me.

>>2611899
I am sorry for your loss anon, may she rest in peace.
Very nice flower pots, she would be proud.

>>2613248
welp, not sure of the gantry extrusion exactly but it has t-slots? I just need an STL with longer t-slots to fit it in and have clearance

>inline laser g-code not working
>fresh marlin install has buggy graphics on lcd even with the right graphics file on the lcd
it never fucking ends

>>2613411
>normal non-inline M3/M5 G-code works
>overshooting issue fixed as expected
>list of files from SD card are in reverse chronological order so I have to scroll to the bottom to get the latest file
mixed blessings

time to open vscode again and figure out why inline laser code isn't fucking working

>>2613376
>UM2
wut. is this not ultimaker 2.0, ultimaker the very people who also make cura?

Give it to me straight lads, is the ender 3 still relevant in 2023? Or is there a superior printer for a comparable price?

>>2613684
it's still the go-to so it's still relevant.

>>2613684
I'd wager the majority of
>CREALITY LMAO
is just anonymous contrarians

is gyroid really the big brain infill or does it just sound cool

>>2613698
gyroid has no intersecting lines, causes less issues with potentially knocking the print off the bed as the nozzle hits already extruded lines which is what happens with every other infill.

>>2613684
The biggest reason to not get an Ender 3 at this point is you can buy an Ender 3 clone for significantly less money.
Got a Microcenter nearby where you can get a $99 Ender 3 Pro? Great, do it.
Just want to grab a printer on Amazon right now? Ender 3 is $180, a Biqu B1 is $150, Sunlu T3 is $150, Aguila X2 is $165.
Better mainboards (the B1 especially), better screens, the B1 has a better y-axis, filament runout sensors, the T3 and X2 have ABL, the B1 has a slightly taller z-axis, they're all comparable to Creality build quality which isn't saying much.

Many of the Chinese printers are comparable, you can start splitting hairs over specific components and mods you intend to do. Sometimes there are standouts, the KP3S are popular right now for example.

Is there a filament that is close in hardness to copper? I wanna try making lapping plates.

>>2613745
no

>>2613745
There are plastics that can be, phenolic resins as a broad example can be harder than annealed copper. In materials that can be printed though, most of your options are way, way softer than copper, softer than most common lead alloys.
There's a notable exception in acrylic, PMMA can be quite hard, harder than "some" copper.
Don't know if that'll be at all true for acrylic that's been printed, definitely don't know what else might be in PMMA filaments to accommodate printing.
Acrylic filament isn't hard to find, but it's not popular.

>>2613772
>>2613774
I don't need it harder but as hard or softer. Sounds great. I'm going to be leaking a CPU and water block.

>>2613799
>leaking
Lapping

>>2613684
it's not bad, it's absolutely barebones and can be hell for beginners but it's done everything and back.

>>2613337
yeah mine was in parts too, same thing,

>>2613358
yep, tree supports with .2mm top z distance. thinking if i slow down outer walls I might be able to clean it up a bit.

next one i am going to just print it all on one plate too.

>>2613799
you're going to print a lapping block. out of plastic. on a printer that doesn't even have a level bed. and with zero understanding of any of the process involved, materials or reasons, you, you are going to try to lap down the copper surface of a water block. the copper surface that is harder (or as hard lol) as the printed surface. the imperfect, unlevel, not-flat, blobby basket weave made of 0.10mm toothpasted out plastic surface.

please for fucks sake post pictures. you're going to be a fucking /diy/ LEGEND son.

>>2613287
Where did you get that stl?

>>2613864
>the imperfect, unlevel, not-flat, blobby basket weave made of 0.10mm toothpasted out plastic surface
NTA but the bottom surface is decently flat if printed on glass.
But I don't understand why anyone would 3D print a plain flat surface, instead of using an already flat piece of an appropriate material. What shape is the lapping block he wants to make supposed to be?

>>2613866
Here you go, bud. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-alien-xenomorph-full-figure-25-cm-82660

>>2613874
thanks

>>2613698
Cubic (the one that makes stars of david sometimes) is probably the strongest, but gyroid is neat for forms that need to fill up with resin or whatever. It might also be the most non-directional, in case you’re printing with TPU and need the thing to deform in a non-directional method.

>>2613864
>>2613867
I want to see if this is doable. I have a 1600af that I can use that I don't have a use for.

Someone already made a model.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3309151

https://ericweinhoffer.com/blog/2017/7/30/the-whitworth-three-plates-method

The question is what abrasive I should use and how long will this take me to get the three plates flat.

>>2613864
>>2613867
>>2613914
and should I even bother with this or just use the glass and sand paper method.

>>2613914
The level of stupidity combined with actual feasibility is what makes any idea a great one.
Good luck anon, I desperately want to see you do this.

Is this the place to ask about cad/drafting?
I feel the sudden urge to learn it and become a drafter even though the field is in a 3% decline

>>2613418
Wohoo my 5W laser arrived. At least it's something like 5W. It's 30W electrical, so in the ballpark probably. 12V only though, so I'll either need to shove an LM2596 in here or just use an external PSU. Probably the latter. No-name driver IC, but there's a pin labelled 12V and a pin labelled PWM so it should be pretty forward to wire up.

I'll probably also mount the MCU externally this time. Gotta figure out a better way of PWMing it with both the g-code S value and the minimal pilot light intensity, this time using a MOSFET or buffer or whatever in order to prevent from sending a PWM signal when there's no 12V. Assuming I can even get a minimal amount of light out of this thing.

>>2613934
Sure, being able to design whatever you need is a skill that will serve you for the rest of your life, especially if you know how to use a 3D printer.
I'd suggest starting with instructional videos for Solidworks and Fusion 360 on YouTube. Solidworks is the industry standard, but you'll probably end up using Fusion to start out because it doesn't come with as much sticker shock. There are better CAD programs than Solidworks too, but those are more for massive assemblies, and actually need a purpose built computer to take advantage of. Hint: Vidya graphics cards will not cut it with the ultra high end CAD programs.

>>2613934
>>2613944
Can't recommend it enough, in the context of the 3D printing it's the difference between a cute hobby and a valuable tool.
You can do quite a lot with just a little knowledge, so the motivation to learn more comes easy.

>>2613942
It continues. Good luck anon.

>>2613944
>Hint: Vidya graphics cards will not cut it with the ultra high end CAD programs.
Tragically, this is exactly ass-backwards. Fusion360 is notorious for its shitty all-around perofrmance, anytime, anywhere, and solidworks has abysmal graphics performance on anything that's not on the supported list. Big boy PLM software, by contrast, is the paragon of stability and performance. Partially because Fusion has to hook viewers with fancy wood textures and normal maps, whereas if you want a render in an actual software package, you can send it to a renderer. Mostly though, I suspect that the competent engineers get poached as soon as they make any meaningful performance improvements.
Ultimately though it doesn't matter because fusion, just like the microcenter ender, is a very powerful and useful tool, even though its performance sucks compared to better stuff.
Also; modern gaming hardware is really good. It's also increasingly supporting professhional software with drivers, etc. Basically it's only SW that isn't impressed with my gaming stuff.

>>2613934
The best way to pick up CAD/Drafting is to get a hobby/employment that benefits from it. If you start creating mechanical sculptures or racing lawnmowers or crating novel musical instruments you are more likely to be driven in to a corner of which you'll have to CAD yourself out.
Because like 3d printing, CAD and drafting are just tools. In conjuction they form bigger tool with more articulated arms and degrees of freedom.
But for just the topic of CAD and drafting. When you install a CAD like Solidworks, Inventor or Solid Edge, you'll find that inside the help menus there's a quite extensive collection of tutorials. Following these tutorials give you a massive headstart, because they're written by the people who made the software and thus they teach you to use the software as intended. Following some random popular youtube tutorials can lead to dumbshit modeling habits which are hard to unlearn and also hinder progress and the ability to modify your designs.
As for software selection, it's tricky.
Solidworks is the household name, everyone uses it and gets results. Despite the popularity and long development, it feels a bit crude and unpolished.
Inventor on the other hand, has more intuitive workflow, great UI and also a large following. But the company Autodesk deserve to get fucked.
Siemens Solid Edge has less popularity but has some neat tricks up its' sleeve. But the philosophy of the synchronous modeling can be hard to pick up and atleast for me caused a bit of a headache.
Fusion360 and XDesign are more streamlined design suites. They are more geared towards hobbyists and designers. If you need to handle more engineering design in CAD than just formgiving, you might find the features lacking.
Rhino is something I'd recommend to atleast keep in the back pocket. It's a direct modeling suite in which you have complete control over the design, but there's no history to save you if you fuck up.

Josef Průša of Prusa Research holding my 3D print, printed on a Original Prusa i3 MK4!
It doesn't get better than this!

>>2614006
Got 89 upvotes too!

>>2613914
>I want to see if this is doable.
you can certainly print something that looks flat to someone without their glasses and rub your block and cpu all over it. it might even have the effect of getting microplastics all over both surfaces.

>>2613918
minus the feasibility, this statement is true.

>>2613957
Solidworks hates high core count graphics cards. A low core count high end card like a Quatro (Quadro?) is what the Hawk Ridge sales rep recommended to me. Fortunately for me, my laptop has a low core count low-mid range graphics card, and it works surprisingly well.

i havent been able to test it because ive been having trouble with my printer and waiting for parts but does the blue bridge lines being significantly thicker mean its actually trying to print the bridges at a thicker layer height?

>>2612244
>3DPG
>3D Pig Disgusting
>G
>Disgusting

its 3DPD, anon. 3DPG simply stands for 3D Printing General. its not a reference. its a mere coincidence and not even a good one because it doesnt match in the first place.

>>2614006
>>2614007
you have to go back

>>2614074
forgot image

What upgrades would you recommend for my Mega SE? Picrel is a list of upgrades I thought of, but I don't have a lot of experience with printer modding. Is there anything I'm missing or did wrong?
I mainly want the ability to print ABS/ASA, as well as dual materials. For the dual extruder I also thought of keeping the existing bowden and adding something like an orbiter next to it.

My MK4 that is faster than the Bambus Laps Pip.
Once, soon, eventually when i release the firmware.
Just a short while longer.

>>2614123
They've already retracted their statements about speed and instead have boiled it down to talking points.
>Faster than last gen
>Speed is nice but ackshually we're focused on print quality and reliability and outright speed doesn't fit well into that equation; the ability to print rapidly may be advantageous for certain individuals in particular situations, but on the whole speed is not a forward goal, but merely a side-effect of our ongoing pursuit of quality and repeatability of prints printed on our printers.

>>2614138
kek

>Simplify3D has added Ironing, Monotonic Infill, combing, and flow control for top-layer infill.
At the rate they've been developing, in another 9 years they'll add Lightning infill and Arachne perimeters.

>there are people in this thread RIGHT NOW that bought a prusa mk4 instead of a p1p

>>2614160
There are retards in all walks of life, don't disparage God's clowns, revel in their buffoonery for they're placed here to entertain good and honest people.

>>2614160
Yes, fuck your chink commie shit.

I can't imagine being such a fucking idiot, the Mk4 is a ludicrous waste of money for Prusa's cult of retard fanboys, exclusively for people who suck down marketing hype and can't do their own research.
Apple users one and all.

>>2614165
>sell mk3 for 600
>buy mk4 for 900
stay salty bugman

>>2614170
>buy mk4
yeah you fucked up right there

>>2614171
>pay 300 for a mk4
yes, really fucked up

>>2614170
Who gonna buy your used MK3 for $600?
You realize they still sell the MK3 NEW for $600 now right?

Good luck retard.

>>2614172
You paid 900.
>b-but it was only 300 more than the mk3
You still bouoght the mk3. You still paid 900.
You don't understand how economics work or something?
Makes sense since you bought a mk4

>>2614170
>cannae do maths

>>2614172
Massively overpaid for a 10 year old bedslinger, desperate to defend the purchase. Good luck retard.

>>2614174
Already sold it.
>NEW for $600
not here faggot

>>2614175
>selling a printer that would go out of use after 4 years anyway
>paying 300 for a new improved version to use besides my voron

Enjoy your chinkshit, niggers.

>>2614181
My printers are custom made and have as many Chinese parts as a Prusa, which is to say all of them.
Sorry you're so inexperienced with printing that you literally don't know what you bought or why.
I'm sure you'll continue to defend it vehemently like you do your iPhone while people with cheaper printers print at a higher quality and faster while having fewer problems.
>Company tells him their product is good and others are bad.
>He believes them.

>>2614160
>muh chink shit
No.

>lurk the 3d printer sphere for years
>finally decide to buy one that seems future proof (neptune 3 pro)
>the age of bambu clones dawns
I should just get into as many hobbies as possible to accelerate progress for everyone else involved

I'm looking for a larger printer and someone on Craigslist near me has an Anycubic Chiron for under 300 bucks. Is it worth 200 extra for a Kobra Max or should I check this out? If I'm spending upwards of 500 I figure I should just start planning a Voron build.

It just works

>>2614349
The Chiron was never a very good printer to begin with, the Max is considerably "better" overall in regards to build quality and actual stability.
It's been as low as $470 new, I'd have a hard time jumping at it. If it's in good shape ~$250 might be fair at least, I see people try to sell them for $200-$300 used.

>>2614160

>talked to a friend that preordered a mk4
>he mentioned that he needs to print parts for it soon, and wants to print them in ABS
>I mention he won't be able to print ABS with PETG parts on his mkIII
>tells me his parts on his mkIII are ASA
>press x for doubt
>Mentioned to my friend if the parts came with his mkIII from the factory, the only thing that is ASA will be the part cooling duct, rest will be petg and will deform if you try to heat up the chamber and print ABS.
>He didn't believe me at first, but realized it was true when he googled and looked at the threads/articles on prusa website.
>friend tells me he cancelled his mk4 order, and is annoyed how much the printer is and the parts not being in ABS.
>I inadvertently convinced my friend to cancel his mk4 pre order
>Asks me what I thought about P1P

Task failed successfully?

>>2612096
this is what I did to my Kingroon to get all the springiness out of Z

>>2614379
Your friend almost spent a lot of money on a machine they didn't know anything about.
You got them to research it, they found out they didn't actually want that machine for that price, and they changed their mind before it was too late.

You're a good friend anon, you did a good thing.

>>2614105 (Me)
So, I looked into this a bit more and decided to go for a belt driven Z axis instead, since there is already an Ender 3 mod for it and the frame is essentially the same between them.
As for the ABL probe, I found the LJ8A3-2-Z/AX- which seems to have been used for bed leveling in some printers.
I hadn't had much luck with the controller board, even though the board itself (SKR V1.4) has most of the features I would need, I don't understand which screens are compatible with it and whether or not I can make my own display board for it. It does have I2C and SPI, so in theory, I could add a parallel LCD12864 and some buttons to an I/O expander and write custom code to use it, right? Or does that not work?
Last thing, what does an enclosure need? Or rather, what do I need to print ABS/ASA? Do I just need to keep temperature stable or do I need to actively heat up the air inside of it?

anyone know how to make this piece of shit stop fucking up my prints?

>>2614392
Yes you can easily add virtually any common 3D printer LCD to that SKR 1.4, fancy or otherwise, including DIY options like picrel.

For a probe, if you're looking for inductive non-contact, then consider a name-brand Prusa PINDA probe. They're popular, proven in enclosed environments, guaranteed to be quality from a good supplier if it's a real Prusa probe, not horrendously overpriced, couple variations to choose from.

ABS/ASA, an enclosure is definitely the way to go. Some will argue it isn't "necessary," you don't listen to those cucks.
Stable temp is most important, but trapping heat in there does help. Active heating isn't necessary for ABS/ASA, your bed heater can keep the enclosure warm enough if your enclosure isn't garbage.
You don't need serious insulation, but you do want to control airflow. Completely blocking off the enclosure can be a bad idea, being able to control how much air is entering and where it's leaving is better.

Given you're looking at an Ender-3 sized printer, consider the tent style enclosures. They're inexpensive, starting around $30, and they work very well.
It'd be more than sufficient for very reliable ABS/ASA printing.
Ideally you want to keep electronics outside of the enclosure. It's not hard to keep stepper motors from overheating, they can handle quite a lot and all you'll do is shave a little bit of their lifespan, no big deal. Your control board on the other hand can overheat and pop mosfets and other shit with relative ease in a hot enclosure, much better to get it outside of the enclosure.

What should I print my mom for mother's day?

>>2614410

>>2614414
>>2611899

>>2614417
Might be cool, Probably look pretty nice with my light blue PLA.

>>2614415
not an option

>>2614411
Thanks a lot for the help.
>Yes you can easily add virtually any common 3D printer LCD to that SKR 1.4, fancy or otherwise, including DIY options like picrel.
How are those screens wired? Do you have a link to a guide for doing custom screens and buttons? Ideally I would like to reuse the stock screen and encoder.
>For a probe, if you're looking for inductive non-contact, then consider a name-brand Prusa PINDA probe.
I picked that probe with availability rather than performance in mind, and I will agree it's not ideal. The biggest issue is the probe runs on 6-36VDC while the board runs on 5VDC, so I read that I should supply the sensor with 24VDC and step down the output with a linear regulator or voltage divider.
>Completely blocking off the enclosure can be a bad idea, being able to control how much air is entering and where it's leaving is better.
So, should I be monitoring the enclosure temperature and control a fan to keep it from overheating?

>>2614432
That picture is about as close to it gets for a guide to using a custom screen and encoder like that, I found no resources when doing it myself.
Reusing the stock screen and encoder is plug-and-play, no effort required.

The PINDA 2 would be effectively plug and play, extremely easy, and has temperature compensation that will work out-of-the-box with Marlin with no extra effort on your part aside from turning on the feature.
If you go with the LJ8A3, you want the LJ18A3-8-Z, it's plenty common and inexpensive, should be available just about anywhere. It lacks the PINDA 2's temperature compensation, but it's not terribly hard to use with your SKR, here's someone who's done exactly that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9i5hAhS4QB8

You can absolutely control the enclosure actively if you want, it's very easy to do.
Your board has 3 thermistor ports already, so if you've only got one hotend and your heated bed, then you've got a free spot for a thermistor already.
Then you'd need to pick a header to control your fan, could steal the HE1 output (again, assuming you only have one hotend), and use that to control an enclosure fan.
It's not uncommon to have one or more additional small fans within the enclosure that just serve to circulate air and help equalize the temperature inside, those can remain on and don't need to be controlled.
That said, it's not really necessary unless full-time "serious" ABS/ASA/Nylon/PC printing is the main goal, it's a bit overkill when just tossing the printer into a little tent is good enough for most occasional use, but it can make for more consistent printing to have control over enclosure temps.

>>2614428
Then what's that poor kid supposed to eat today?

>>2614444
Checked.
>Reusing the stock screen and encoder is plug-and-play, no effort required.
Well, that's convenient, I should've asked earlier.
>If you go with the LJ8A3, you want the LJ18A3-8-Z, it's plenty common and inexpensive, should be available just about anywhere.
Is the larger size what makes it better? Also there is a NC and a NO version, which is better suited to ABL? (I know both will work just fine.)
>Then you'd need to pick a header to control your fan, could steal the HE1 output
The board has 4 fan headers, I don't think stealing is needed in this case. I'm not sure if the other fans are controlled differently, because the manual describes them as "1 way CNC fan, 3 way normally open fan;". I guess I'll have to try them out.

ermm What the spruce?

>>2614472

>>2614422
Do it anon, I printed one to test vase mode and now I gotta do 40 of these for moms everywhere

>>2614476
Have a link to the model?

>>2614463
>what makes it better?
Easier to stick with sensors that are known to work at 5v, larger sensors "typically" have a longer sensing range.
There are plenty of options, LJ8A3-2-Z/AX-5V, LJ12A3-4-Z/BX-5V, LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V.
The 18mm ones are common, it's easy to find mounts for them, and they are usually more reliable than smaller sensors when leveling a glass bed.

>Also there is a NC and a NO
You want NPN NO, normally-open.

>The board has 4 fan headers
Only the one is controlled ("1 CNC fan"), and that one should be used for your part-cooling fan, that's why I suggested stealing that HE1 output.

>>2614480
That is to say, those 3 others are just "always on" sources of 24v.

>>2614480
>Easier to stick with sensors that are known to work at 5v
That's sort of obvious, but I've only seen 6-36V ones so far, so that's what I'm planning for.
>You want NPN NO, normally-open.
I asked because my endstops are wired NC, probably to detect unplugged switches.
>Only the one is controlled ("1 CNC fan"), and that one should be used for your part-cooling fan, that's why I suggested stealing that HE1 output.
Doesn't the hotend also need a PWM fan? Why is there only one output?
>That is to say, those 3 others are just "always on" sources of 24v.
Guess I found where to plug my probe. What is the best way to step the signal down to 5V?
Linear regulator, voltage divider or optocoupler? ("Best" as in, lowest chance of a cooked board.)

>>2614489
>What is the best way to step the signal down to 5V?
You don't.
Your endstop connectors are a source of 5V, GND, and an input pin, and that's all you need for a 5V probe like those I suggested.
They aren't inherently Normally Open or Normally Closed, they're controllable pins that can be used as you please.

You should watch that video I linked to, the guy is hooking this sensor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XC5T7B to an SKR 1.4 mainboard.
You don't need any additional hardware, you just plug the 3 wires from the sensor into an endstop connector.
Plug and play.

Hotend typically gets an always-on fan, but ones that are controllable for faster warm-ups are becoming popular.
One output for a part-cooling fan is pretty typical, though a lot of newer boards have many more controllable outputs now.
You can also use other controllable outputs, like free endstops, and use those with a mosfet to drive additional fans if you want more controllable outputs to use.

>>2614495
>You don't.
Why not? It's easier than trying to find a 5V version of the probe. And I don't understand what NO or NC have to do with the wiring, it's all software settings, unless you use more than one switch. Picrel is one of the wiring diagrams I've found for connecting a 24V probe to a 5V board, this one using an optocoupler.

>>2614502
I don't see how it's easier, where are you buying your probe?
There are 5v probes readily available globally with few exceptions, I can't imagine a place where 12v/24v probes are available to you but 5v variants are not.
https://www.amazon.de/s?k=LJ18A3+5v https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=LJ18A3+5v https://www.ebay.fr/sch/i.html?&_nkw=LJ18A3+5v https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-LJ18A3-5v.html

You can go with a 24v probe and hook it up as you please if that's the way you want to go, an optocoupler is a nice safe choice and there's no reason it shouldn't work.

I would like opinions, I currently own 6 printers

>Voron v0.1
>Voron Trident 300 cubed
>Ender 3
>Kingroon kp3s
>Kingroon kp3s pro
>cr-10s pro

So pic related is a printer I am 50/50 on just storing this in the garage, due to a few reasons

>part changes are severely limited.
>Would have to make a new harness adapter if I swap parts to be compatible with the ribbon, if I got rid of the ribbon I would have to make a new harness and just wasting wires.

So I am wondering if I should find a newer printer that has a 300x300 bed or a couple of smaller printers instead?

>kind of tempted to do 100 dollar ender 3 microcenter

>>2614513
put it on craigslist ffs

>>2614513
>I currently own 6 printers
Do you at least use them to make money?

>>2614513
In what ways are you feeling limited by the daughter board? Seems super easy to work with.
You've already got a 300x300 printer that's actually good with that Trident.
Sounds to me like you've got a candidate for doing something fun and unnecessary. Maybe a zen garden? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTk6hyhYtYw
Would be great starting point for a syringe extruder setup, they're big and slow moving anyway so a CR-10 frame is perfect. You could print concrete, ceramic, chocolate, cheese, churros, fondant, frosting, RTV silicone, Nutella, wood putty, the list goes on.

$100 Ender 3 from Microcenter is tempting, but you've clearly owned some printers, why not consider the $170 Sunlu S8 310x310x400mm cheapshit surplus-parts-bin printer? I've always enjoyed my bottom-dollar funny brand "why is there always a $350 off coupon code available" printers, usually most of the extrusions are pretty straight and sometimes you get cool surplus parts from much better printers.
Or get on eBay and grab a couple of $75-$80 used unrepair open-box Anycubic Kobras, Ender 3s, or Kingroon KP3Ssses.
I figure with two or three you could assemble some sort of robot that walks around and prints turds directly on the sidewalk.

Have you seen people make the pultrusion setups for turning plastic bottles into filament? There are a couple out there now that people make from Ender 3 and similar printers.
Could turn that CR-10 into a big ol' filament machine, turning empty diabetes bottles into fresh rolls of low quality filament. Highly recommended.

>>2614518
Why not keep it for parts?

>>2614522
No, I am just impatient, and printing multi parts at the same time, shit gets done sooner. I make plenty money at my job that I don't need to do more work. I just want to go home and enjoy my free time. However I have pondered ideas for passive income

>vending machines
>self serve car wash

>>2614526
Well, I have extra SKR pico boards, and thought about putting it as the main controller board, and then use the stock controller board to give the printer independent z axis control with klipper. Luckily with that I don't need that 40 pin so I could desolder it from the board and make a harness for the SKR pico.

I have direct drive pancake motor cheap V6 clone, I am using herome since its compatible with cr-10s pro and the part cooling ducts are adjustable.

>>2614189
>which is to say all of them.
clueless

>>2614479
https://www.printables.com/model/290650-tradicional-crystal-pot-and-planter-for-plants-and

>>2614379
>I mention he won't be able to print ABS with PETG parts on his mkIII
That's a load of shit.

>>2614414
A dildo made from a scan of your dick to show her that you really love her.

>>2614567
Prusa will void your warranty if you run your Prusa printer in an enclosure at over 35C.
Drooping/warping/deforming components when printing in an enclosure is a common complaint with Prusa printers, and goes unresolved by support that claims the MK3 is only intended to print in ambient temperatures up to 35C.
Using a Prusa printer on a mild summer day will void the warranty.

Wash the beard oil dripping from your balls and ass-cheeks, you look ridiculous shill.

Trying to find a silicone spill mat similar to this on aliexpress or for sale in australia. anyone seen one with more square sides and no pawprint at a good price?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005104772947.html

>>2614568
PLA isn't a very good material for sex toys though

>>2614565
thanks

>>2614567
wdf is this not common knowledge? I mean its even posted here >>2614573

if PETG is suitable for printed parts like for custom 3d printing communities like annex engineering, voron, ratrig, etc.. they would use them, but, no, ABS is required.

Enclosure easily can get above 35C, my voron right now is printing with enclosure @ 65C.

>>2614602
lol im a dummy I said 65 but pic shows 63.

>>2614292
>neptune 3 pro
future proof? brother it's $230 and is okay but doesn't push the mold at all

>be me
>buy Ender 3 v2 years ago as first printer
>somehow fuck it up after 2 months
>throw in closet for 2 years, buy more 3D printers
>finally say "let's fix this shit"
>actually feel comfortable and empowered addressing issues now
>fixed printer

love that for me

>>2614579
jaycar
>good price
never mind

>>2614006
WTF does he skip leg day but not eat day?

>>2614685
most men skip leg day bro.

i like gyroid cause most of the others are kiked jew stars and theres always the option of drilling a hole and filling the bitch with expanding foam and its generally strong at all angles. afaik real strength is derived from wall thickness if you really need compression strength use grid/lines type stuff + more wall thickness or do 100%

Alright I asked about cad/drafting a couple days ago and I got some nice words. But also I kinda got scared off, because I have no real use for it right now. I kinda just feel like learning it for fun. The only thing I can think of would be making earrings for my gf. Or maybe I could use it for cnc to make stuff with wood? Not really sure what but I've always been interested in that
Is it bad that I have no practical reason to learn any of this? Has anyone been in a similar situation?

>>2614794
Perhaps you just feel like you should be more capable than you are, or perhaps you feel stagnant in your current circumstances.

Are you mechanically inclined at all? Can you visualize 3d rotations in your head? The latter is very important, you don't want to waste time checking your work from multiple angles if you don't have to. The render is there to help you, but you want to control it and not the other way around.

>>2614797
>Are you mechanically inclined at all?
Never really done anything like that except for like replacing something on my bike or adjusting the brakes and stuff like that. But I don't think I'm super mechanically inclined
>Can you visualize 3d rotations in your head?
Yes this I can do
>Perhaps you just feel like you should be more capable than you are, or perhaps you feel stagnant in your current circumstances
Both of those exactly
And I do like making stuff. It's why I thought I wanted to be a programmer. I think I just want a mildly creative job that isn't a pipe dream. And I like that there's some amount of logic involved in drafting

>>2614799
I don't know the software industry, but I have some experience with mechanical products. I imagine the reasons I'm not happy are the same reason many software guys aren't happy: we wanted a creative career, and the world can't give it to us for a variety of soul-crushing reasons. There's plenty of "almost" and "good enough to survive" jobs, though, if you can deal with looking yourself in the mirror every morning and saying "suck it up, this is the best you're going to get."

At some organizations, there's this job called "mechanical detailer." The people who can make things look good and also function get paid too much to make sure bolt holes line up, so that's your job. It tends to pay okay and you don't wreck your body doing it, but it's not that creative. There are also jobs where you need somebody that can apply a technical change request to a large number of drawings and solid models, which also usually pays okay and also isn't physically demanding. If you don't have the technical background for mechanical engineering, it's going to be difficult to do much more than that, because you're liable to make a bad change without realizing that what you're asking for won't work, or is going to fail and kill somebody.

One of the wires broke for the feeder motor connection. Where can I get a new one to crimp together? What's it even called?

>>2614897
Most Nema 17 stepper motors use a 6 pin 2mm JST PH connector.
If you've got the crimpers, grab a cheap kit and have at it: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=jst+ph+2.0

>>2614904
thank you anon

>>2614794
A great starter project with CAD is to make custom holders for all your tools. It's not too complicated, gets you used to taking measurements and bringing them into your design, and figuring out how clearances work.

With CAD, just remember:
1. Select plane or face
2. Sketch desired shape(s)
3. Extrude sketched shape into solid, or extrude cut shape into a pocket.
4. Repeat

Been struggling to google for this. I've got an Ender 5 with Ezabl, but when I run these first layer test prints they look like the bed isn't level. The bed visualizer on octoprint reports the bed is indeed pretty level. It feels like the printer isn't actually using the levelling mesh for some reason. Does anyone know what it could be?
Or have I misunderstood something? I think I'm also underextruding but not sure yet.

>>2614928
Is your gantry square?

>>2614928
Have you looked at the gcode for these tests and made sure that leveling is being enabled after homing?

>>2614931
this is correct i think?

>>2614930
i don't know, i'll find out how to check this.

>>2614928 (me)
i don't know why i ignored this, i guess i figured it was some kind of vibration or whatever. but this pattern is pretty suspicious and i'm guessing it could be related to the gantry being off

>>2614932
The lone G29 should work. You homing with the sensor or homing with a limit switch?
An easy issue to miss with some printers is bottoming out on the z-axis, simply can't go as low as it needs to for certain areas, have to shift the whole bed upwards a millimeter or two.
Similar but not the same there's also software endstops, depending on your particular setup they can prevent the z axis from traveling below 0, preventing the nozzle from reaching where it needs to. Not a common problem, more a result of poor choices in a Marlin setup than an actual issue.

Might be a good idea to run multiple M48s with different settings and in different positions to verify that your probe really is behaving correctly before you head down any deep rabbit holes.

>>2614939
>You homing with the sensor or homing with a limit switch?
the sensor is doing z homing

>bottoming out on the z-axis
i think i did have to adjust this some time last year.

>run multiple M48s with different settings
pic rel, seems typical from what i read.
i'll get a try square tomorrow so i'll check out the frame and gantry, i've never checked that and the odds i fucked it up at assembly are nontrivial

>>2612130
>backlash is a rigidity issue
backlash is NOT a rigidity issue

I bet the long arms of the delta printer magnify the backlash in the ballscrew, which is due to the play between the screw, the balls, slack in the ball race, and the traveling nut

your entire frame could be made out of diamond and while it would be completely rigid you would still have the backlash issue

the way around this would be using glass scales on the axises or using some kind of laser positional measurement for active positional compensation
or using leadscrews which are supposed to have less backlash than ballscrews

Printed out my 5W laser bracket today. Something about the alignment seems off though...

>>2615172

holy fuck why is it so difficult to install a BLTouch? ive been trying for a day now and shit is just not working at all. everything i find is years out of date and nothing works. im even asking ChatGPT and its guiding me into one depreciated solution after the other

>>2615246
you doing a custom build of marlin?

>>2611890
thoughts on this printer design?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6023989

>>2615144
I guess I didn't phrase that correctly, but yeah, it's probably a rigidity AND backlash issue. I focused more on the "can't go fast" part because I'm not familiar with delta kinematics.
>or using leadscrews which are supposed to have less backlash than ballscrews
Are belts not an option? I thought those had even less backlash.

>>2615246
It's not hard, but it can be hard to find the info you need for your particular setup, so much outdated shit and bad advice.
What printer? Any mods? Marlin, Klipper, other?

my ender 3 has been collecting dust for the past 5 months. i'm gonna sell it, what a piece of shit
why did you guys recommend this? it can't do more than 1 print without something going wrong unless it's 100% perfectly calibrated as if 98% isn't enough

>>2615283
Meanwhile
>>2610526

Maybe you're the problem, not the printer?

>>2615287
i do 1 print and it comes out nearly perfect
without changing anything i do another print
10 minutes in, it falls apart

explain

>>2615289
You explain, I'm not there to tell you what's wrong.

>>2615289
Maybe you could describe the problem and in what way exactly it fails. Chances are you're doing something wrong and it only sometimes affects your print.
I had similar issues myself, but I wasn't a retard and actually used a search engine.

>>2615292
i got into 3d printing like 6 months ago with the intention of diving directly into designing 3d parts and printing them immediately, i didn't think i would have to fuck around every 2 second troubleshooting problems that shouldn't exist
i guess i was an idiot for not doing dozens of hours of research before buying a printer that creates such a stockholm syndrome over its users that they think repairing and fixing issues stemming from poor quality control is le fun tinkering

i no doubt did something wrong but i have neither the time nor the patience to give a shit, i just want something that works out of the box

>>2615295
there should be a disclaimer on the box of ender 3s saying
>not for beginner users
>modification and troubleshooting will be required

>>2615295
Sounds like you have emotional issues unrelated to 3D printing.
A stock Ender 3 prints perfectly fine, it's not a great printer and I expect the extruder arm to break eventually, but that's about it.
If you can't get a good print out of it, chances are the problem is you.
You need to assemble it right and use it right or it won't work well, what a fucking shocker.

>>2615298
my first ever print took 8 hours and it was perfect
second print, without changing anything, failed within 40 minutes

a stock ender 3 prints perfectly fine if you're a god damn expert but at this point i'm just gonna get something idiot-proof

>>2615295
>still doesn't explain what issue the printer has
You know, it could be something really simple that people in this thread could help you with, but I guess you just want to complain instead. Do what you want, but don't expect any of your problems to be solved without any effort.
I'll bet it's an adhesion issue because you've never cleaned the build plate.

>>2615299
There isn't.
You can delude yourself, for the love of god don't waste money on a Prusa or Bambu printer.
Prusa and Bambu both make great printers, but they're not idiot-proof.
Here's what you want: https://www.shapeways.com/

>>2615300
it was 5 months ago, i can't remember
i think it was that the filament would detach from the baseplate after about 10-15 minutes and there was something else i can't remember
the biggest problem isn't even that though, it's how fucking slow it is. i need something quicker so i'm gonna sell it

>>2615301
what's wrong with bambu and prusa?

>>2615303
>i think it was that the filament would detach from the baseplate
I fucking knew it. Clean your build plate dumbass.
>the biggest problem isn't even that though, it's how fucking slow it is. i need something quicker so i'm gonna sell it
You should increase the speed in your slicer settings. What speed are you even printing at?

>>2615304
>Clean your build plate dumbass.
i did that and i even used a new glass bed, changed nothing
i can't remember shit, it was too long ago

>>2615303
Nothing, great printers, but they're not magic and are susceptible to the vast majority of the same issues one encounters with an Ender 3 or literally any other FDM printer.
You're describing adhesion issues now, a universal problem among printing nubs who wipe their greasy fingers on the build plate and insist their leveling is perfect but refuse to share a picture of their first layer.

>>2615308
i think the first few layers of filament were weak/stringy until the extruder became clogged, i think it's coming back to me
in any case, i am putting 3d printing on hold until it's fiscally necessary to use a 3d printer again, then i shall learn properly and not waste more time troubleshooting than actually printing

>>2615307
>i did that and i even used a new glass bed, changed nothing
>i can't remember shit, it was too long ago
If you replaced the part that you thought defective, and it did not fix your issue, that could mean one of two things:
The replacement was also defective, or:
You are defective.

>>2615311
nah, just impatient

>>2615247
>>2615269
its just a normal Ender 3 with a BigTreeTech motherboard and the BLTouch V3.1 kit.
the Motherboard is an SKR mini E3 V2.0 and the currently installed firmware is "Marlin bugfix-2.0.x".
what ive been doing up until now was taking the firmware from the BTT github page and doing the configurations inside the Marlin.ino and Configuration.h files as per this tutorial video: https://youtu.be/eF060dBEnfs?t=409
he conveniently skips the part where he actually has to flash the firmware onto the printer and thats where im currently stuck. ive been using ChatGPT for help and its only getting more and more complicated as i go. there must be an easier solution than this, right?

oh look, somebody else with ender 3 problems
what a surprise

>>2615314
>defective
>impatient
There's no difference, really.

>>2614932
If the gantry isn't square, you should be able to see it in a vertical skew test print.

>>2615318
sure, you could call anybody that isn't perfect defective
but of course you'd have to find a perfect person first!

>>2615316
Buddy you put the firmware bin file on the sd card and turn on the printer.
That's what whole thing.

>>2615316
>>2615323
Here's a better guide with pre-compiled binaries you can use if you want: https://www.danbp.org/p/en/node/149
This nigga has even kept it updated for 2 years now with new builds.

>>2615320
>but of course you'd have to find a perfect person first!
it was in front of you all along

>>2615328
>All of my shitbox Chinese printers have worked reliably for years
I'm gonna call my mom and tell her I'm perfect.

>>2614573
That's weird. Don't they also sell enclosures? Do their enclosures also void warranty or are they exempt for some reasons?

>>2614928
heres my prusa-slicer custom gcode that just loads the saved mesh i will manually do bed probe with octoprint can uncomment the probing parts i commented evberytghing

; GENERIC printer load abl mesh no probing
G28 ; normal home
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; Set Bed temp
M104 S180 ; pre-heat Extruder
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; Wait 4 bed to reach temp
;M117 ABL Probing
;G29 ;abl home
;M500 ; store mesh
M420 S1 Z20;load probed mesh
G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F5000.0 ; purge move
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; Set Extruder temperature
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 F200 E6 ; extrude 6mm
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 X0 Y0 Z1 F5000.0 ; squish purge move
;start

>>2615330
The enclosure they sell is shit-tier and basically just a draft shield, but it can still get too hot inside pretty easily.
It will only void your warranty if you let it get too hot inside the enclosure.
It's up to you to figure that out on your own before you accidentally melt your printer.
Beardy-man's a real piece of shit.

>>2615323
i did and that doesnt work.
>>2615327
i followed the instructions on the link you posted and VSCode throws an error when trying to build.
doesnt tell me what exactly fails either

I'm seeing some 4k Resin printers around the $100 price range on Ebay, what's the catch?

>>2615354
>i did and that doesnt work.
Well that's not helpful at all and you're on your own if you won't provide information about the problem.

In the Auto Build Marlin screen, untick "Silent" so you can actually see the errors.
As for flashing, do the whole thing:
Grab an SD card of no more than 4GB, format it FAT32 with an allocation size of 4096, don't skip this. If you've already done it, do it again, don't skip this.
Grab firmware here, either the bltouch one or bltouch-for-z-homing one. Rename the file firmware.bin.
Verify you haven't fucked up file extensions and it's not now firmware.bin.bin or some shit.
Move the firmware.bin file to the SD card, don't put anything else on there.
Put it in the printer, turn it on, there should be a delay. Now remove the SD card and check it on your computer again, you should see firmware.CUR has replaced firmware.bin.
Now, at the printer, go to settings and initialize the eeprom, then save settings/save to eeprom.

Report back with what you did, what you saw, and where you encountered a problem.

>>2615416
No catch, resin printers are cheap as fuck to make and 99% of them come from parts made by one company (Chitu) that's been raking it in for several years now absolutely dominating the consumer resin printer market.
So they're cheap, a Halot-One is only $140, a Photon Mono 2 4K is only $200.
Anycubic does ebay auctions for new models, with the Photon Mono 2 going for $150-$160 typically. Consider this and keep your bids sane and there's no reason you can't get a Mono 2 for $50 less than buying it elsewhere.

>>2615481
Is there a big difference between a 4k and an 8k Resin printer? It'll be for making anime figures and other trinkets that will be sanded and painted

>>2615481
i went with using the existing binary files instead of trying to compile it myself. when trying to home Z or auto home or anything the Probe just extends and retracts itself a couple times and then does nothing. with some other firmware i tried earlier that didnt work properly either it would also constantly move up a little every time i did anything Z axis related.
could the probe have some issues? its a V3.1, i read the V3 has some issues

>>2615500
Depends on the size of the printer.
Halot-One, 5.9" LCD, 2560x1620, pixels are roughly 50 micron squares.
Elegoo Mars 3, 4K 6.6" LCD, ~35 micron pixels.
You better fuckin' believe that the jump down from 50 to 35 is noticeable as fuck, that's less than half the area per pixel. That's like the difference between a 0.6mm and a 0.4mm nozzle on an FDM machine, it's considerable.
Then you look at a Photon Mono X or Elegoo Saturn with a 4K 8.9" LCD, and we're back to 50 micron pixels, just like the 5.5-6" 2K printers.
Halot-Mage with a fat 8K 10.3" screen, that's 30 microns, a little bit finer than you get from many smaller 4K screens.

So it's not a question of resolution, it's pixel density. Yes, the jump from 50 microns down 35 or 30 is noticeable, big time, but whether or not it's necessary is really up to you. Considering how cheap they're getting anymore, I don't see incentive to not aim for those tight <=35 micron printers. Resin printers have a limited lifespan, spending more on it won't get you more hours out of it, and when it dies you get to replace it with a better one because better ones keep getting cheaper.
My first resin printer was 1080p and cost a lot more than the far nicer 2K shitbox that replaced it, and now similarly sized 4K printers are even cheaper than that.

>>2615509
First, did you initialize your eeprom? You've got new firmware, gotta initialize the eeprom so everything is set up correctly, otherwise settings that are expected may not actually be set/accessible.
Did you replace your z-axis homing switch with the BL-Touch or are you using them together? Be sure you've chosen the right firmware based on that.
Dedicated BL-Touch port or did you unplug and replace the z-axis endstop switch?
Real BL-Touch or clone? Have you verified the wiring, pin to pin? Lots of clones flip it or otherwise fuck it up.

>>2615534
>Did you replace your z-axis homing switch with the BL-Touch or are you using them together? Be sure you've chosen the right firmware based on that.
>Dedicated BL-Touch port or did you unplug and replace the z-axis endstop switch?
>Real BL-Touch or clone? Have you verified the wiring, pin to pin? Lots of clones flip it or otherwise fuck it up.
i unplugged the Z-endstop as the instructions told me to do so.
it has a dedicated BL-Touch Port and its an original as well.

>>2615540
So you're plugged into the dedicated port and the z-axis endstop port, both, right?
And you definitely used firmware-bltouch-for-z-homing.bin from BTT?

>>2615540
>Real BL-Touch or clone? Have you verified the wiring, pin to pin?

>>2615546
>So you're plugged into the dedicated port and the z-axis endstop port, both, right?
no. theres a dedicated plug with all five wires terminating in it that i then plug into a dedicated "Z-Probe" port on the motherboard.
the z-axis endstop port is unplugged as per the instructions in the manual.
i also used the right firmware
>>2615549
its a real one. the wiring looks right, at least going by the schematics in the manual.

>>2615550
>i also used the right firmware
If you've got the whole thing in the BL-Touch port, you need the firmware-bltouch.bin, and to leave your z-endstop hooked up.
If you used firmware-bltouch.bin and unplugged your Zmin endstop, then it will not work.

If you've got it split between the BL-Touch port and the Zmin endstop port, then you want firmware-bltouch-for-z-homing.bin.

You'd be better off building Marlin from scratch so you don't have to use such an old outdated version.
The next best thing, ignore the BTT github and use BLTouch 2.1.2 (bugfix 19/01/2023) from https://www.danbp.org/p/en/node/149
With this, you MUST use the split wiring, the 3-pin connector in the BLtouch port, the other 2 pins in the Zmin endstop port.
>Z-stop switch removed and the BLTouch endstop wires (black and white) connected to the Z endstop pins in the motherboard
It's definitely what I'd recommend doing if not building Marlin from scratch, at least it's much more up to date.

Is it possible to daisy chain trinamic drivers to free up pins using marlin?

>>2615622
Nevermind, they can share one spi bus.

>>2615622
All you can really free up is the debug lines, some boards use a separate pin for each one when you can actually do multiple (3 or 4 I think? There's a limit) from a single pin.
But that's it, not a huge difference really, at most you might free up a few relatively inaccessible pins.
With Klipper, you can use multiple boards together to greatly expand IO and driver capacity.

Got a board that you want to find some more free IO on? Never forget the weird shit. Dedicated neopixel ports, bltouch ports, max position endstops, filament runout, LCD connectors, ISP, ICSP, UART, JTAG...

>>2615627
>some boards use a separate pin for each one when you can actually do multiple (3 or 4 I think? There's a limit) from a single pin.
>>2615626
>Nevermind, they can share one spi bus.
Yeah that.

If it's SPI, they can all share MOSI/MISO/SCK, if it's UART then the limit is 4 drivers per bus.

>>2615627
>Dedicated neopixel ports
nobody actually does this, right? Also I wonder how usuable ICSP pins are for this. SWDIO and SWCLK are JTAG, right? That's what my Creality 4.2.2 has at least.

>>2615662
>nobody actually does this
Ummmm, yes?
I mean it's neat

>>2615662
It's pretty much a standard feature now for most boards havin' the dedicated Neopixel port.
The good ones are actually 12v/24v and can supply reasonable current.
Marlin has support built-in for addressable LEDs, can do all sorts of fun and pointless shit with them.
Watch the ambient light fade from Blue to Red as the hotend warms up, put a light on the hotend and make it change color depending on the extrusion role (green for perimeters, red for outside perimeters, blue for infill, that kind of shit), make 'em all flash or whatever with the fan speed, put on a gay little light show when a print finishes, you can do pretty much whatever from Gcode directly with M150.

I could see wanting status lights in a print farm, but that's about the only justification I can think of.

Is there any realistic diy color swapping that's reliable? Looking for a poor man Bambu ACS or whatever they call it.

>>2615751
Then you're looking for the Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder, DIY alternative to a Prusa MMU or Bambu AMS, more reliable than the MMU in my opinion.
There are other options out there, but it's one of the most complete and effective. It's real, it works, you can buy kits from multiple different Chinese suppliers which is how you know it's as legit as it gets.

>>2615688
Ah yes, I remember having to probe solder points/pins to find available serial for klipper.

Why did I do that? I was putting orange pi inside my kingroon, and didn't want to run usb to outside.

On another note I took up uart for tmc driver, may switch to soldering wires onto the serial pins on the ch340g.

>>2615755
What about filament mixing hot-ends?

>>2615812
There isn't much, it's been a thing for a long time, but it's in no way mature.

The biggest problem is the vast majority don't do shit to actually mix filament, it gets combined into an incoherent coextruded striped mess.
The Diamond hotend is one of the oldest and most notable examples, and it's great fun if you enjoy heat-creep, color leaking, poor mixing, clogs, all shared by the majority of other color-mixing hotends.
The E3D Cyclops isn't much better. Fun as hell to tinker with, but far from great.

There are still people working around the idea, obviously there's a lot of room for improvement.
Picrel.webm someone recently created a co-extruder that basically wraps one color around another with controllable thickness, very cool shit, works well in their demonstration.
The PLEC project intends to be akin to the MMU or ERCF, but actually mixes filaments rather than just switching between them, shows promise.

What is the strongest possible print?

>>2615885
small peek + carbon fibre sphere, 100% infill, annealed

>>2615751 Im planning to make a simple dual color system with two ender3 style bowden extrudes with weak pancake motors and springs and a Y-spliter.
>>2615885
PP-GF and PA-GF is the strongest stuff that could be printed with cheap machines. Prices are reasonable. Printing is tricky but possible. PP have issues with bed adhesion, PA have issues with moisture.

>>2615755
Do people do this with ender 3 clones(i have a geeetech a20 and a voxelab aquila x2)? Most of what I'm finding is voron printers with that setup. Looks like exactly what I'd want. Didn't even find this 3 weeks ago when I was digging around before - only saw that pallette thing

I printed a standard run of the mill bag clipper sealer thing and it came out alright but I know with time and pressure this thing will snap. Is there a way to strengthen PLA prints to smooth out the layers and lines?

>>2615885
>What is the strongest possible print?
A sphere, or a cylinder maybe? Either way, you can go with 4 walls and 100% infill, or you can make the wall count really high and get to 100% that way (seems to have more problems with warping this way sometimes).

What's causing this diamond pattern on my prints?

>>2615933
the infill is

>>2615416
Either shit build quality, used, or locked into proprietary software
Don't focus on resolution
Build volume >>> resolution
The difference between 2k and 4k results is negligible
Only trust elegoo and anycubic desu and formlabs but they're expensive

>>2615935
How? Why? I'm just running default 10%

>>2615938
too thin walls or the infill is overlapping too much, so print with a thicker shell or lower your infill overlap

>>2615620
If you've got the whole thing in the BL-Touch port, you need the firmware-bltouch.bin, and to leave your z-endstop hooked up.
i tried that and now the extruder actually moves down towards the bed but hitting the probe with my finger wont make it stop going down. i stopped it in fear of it crashing into the bed. manually hitting the z-endstop made it stop as you would expect it to.

splitting the pins isnt really an option for me. at least id reserve it for the very last option because i would need to undo the current plug and get some new 2 pin and 3 pin plugs.
building marlin from scratch seems to be my only option but i think thats sort of what ive been trying up until i posted here.

>>2611890
How strong do these thing smell when producing?
I live in a small apartment

>>2615983
most materials (PLA and PETG being the most common) have no smell or fumes, but certain ones like ABS does require ventilation

So I remember flashing firmware onto my updated ender 3 motherboard several years ago with the help of this guy
https://youtu.be/eq_ygvHF29I
which was very helpful, as I have no experience coding whatsoever, but there are no plugins in vscode to autobuild grbl, or is autobuild marlin able to do grbl as well (probably a stupid question)? Should I just open the grbl config.h file in the arduine ide instead? I want to set up dual axis on the cnc machine I just built, but according to the grbl github I need to mess around in config.h files to get that working.
https://github.com/gnea/grbl/releases
>NOTE: Default build remains the same! Dual motor support can only be enabled in config.h.
Seeing as I don't want to mess things up, I'm just gonna ask here for some pointers, hopefully you guys can steer me in the right direction.

>>2615915
Sure, there's no real requirement from the printer itself, just know there's "a lot to it."
Making an ERCF work with Marlin for instance is a bit of a chore, more straightforward with Klipper.
A direct extruder helps, not necessarily required, a filament cutter at the hotend can help, not necessarily required, and so on, the little stuff that makes it all "good" can really add up.
You can absolutely do it to any printer, but plan it out thoroughly to make sure you know what you're getting into. The price is fine, it's just the amount of work behind it.

>>2615927
Don't use PLA, there's your tip. PLA is brittle, strong as hell but not nearly as ductile as many other plastics. If you want something that can flex and move a lot over time without worrying about it too much, ABS or ASA might be a better choice, or some PLA+. I mean Nylon is a way better choice, but that's not easy like grabbing a $13 roll of ABS or PLA+.
Always remember that silky, shiny, matte and other pretty PLA is usually trash from a mechanical standpoint, those additives make it looks nice but shit all over the useful characteristics, matte PLA has such poor adhesion it makes great support material for any other PLA because it peels off so easily and cleanly.
If you want to try smoothing PLA you can, but it won't help the strength; ethyl acetate can be used to vapor-smooth "most" PLA, but it's not a consistent process like vapor smoothing ABS/ASA/PVB.
Best thing you can do for strength is pick an appropriate filament, print slow, hot, lots of walls, lots of infill, lots of top and bottom layers, and print the interior walls and infill at a considerably higher width than your outside perimeter/nozzle diameter.
If you really need more out of it, then consider annealing. The difference it makes is massive, especially with filament that's intended to be annealed like 3D850/3D870 PLA+.

Are thick layers stronger or weaker than thin layers?

>>2615983
PLA can smell sweet but it's not anything bad.
PETG has no real fumes
ABS has horrid acrid smells like the other anon said.
Nylons can also get smelly.

>>2616012
It should still be relatively simple to import the whole development environment of C files and makefiles and stuff, and just use VScode's build function. So long as it's for a standard MCU family that PlatformIO has support for.

>>2615983
PLA smells outright delicious.

>>2615958
Well what you're describing is correct, it's going to home to the endstop, then level with the probe. If you don't want that, gotta replace the endstop, or like you said just do your own Marlin build.
Uncheck "Silent Build" in the Auto Build Marlin menu if you're having trouble compiling, by default it won't show any errors or anything during the build, just a middle finger when it fails.
If you've got ABM and PlatformIO installed in VSCode, then try building a default Marlin install without changing the config, just to make sure your setup is working.

(1/3 - Still encoding, don't hold your breath)

>>2616090
Be sure to start with a current version of Marlin, I'd recommend the Bugfix 2.1.x snapshot, and then use the up-to-date configs from the Marlin team:
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/bugfix-2.1.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3/BigTreeTech%20SKR%20Mini%20E3%202.0
Having just moved that shit into Marlin-bugfix-2.1.x\Marlin, compile without changing anything, just to be sure nothing's gone fucky. Be sure to re-open the folder in VSCode after moving these files over, just for safety.
You'll need to compile for the appropriate environment for your specific board and revision, and that means you MUST verify which chip is on the board or you gonna have a bad time.
Look at your board, see what's there, don't assume and don't skip this step or you're shooting yourself in the foot, look at the board and verify exactly which chip is there.
It should be an STM32F103RE, or RC. Then you'll compile with the corresponding btt_USB or btt_USB_maple environment. For an older board like this, the maple environment "might" be more stable.
Make sure it compiles fine before you continue, you shouldn't have changed anything at this point aside from copying over the config files.

(2/3 - Still encoding, this would be faster if I hadn't fucked it up the first time.)

>>2616101
so far everything worked out. waiting for the next step of instructions

>>2616101
Now it's time to turn on the BL Touch shit. It might look like a lot, but it's not, shit's easy AF. I even included the line numbers:

First turn on the PID editing and autotuning, you're gonna need it. (834,835)
Then disable z_min_probe_uses_z_min_endstop_pin because you're using the dedicated port, not the endstop port. (1339)
Enable use_probe_for_z_homing if that's what you want to do, definitely recommended with a BL Touch because fuck it why not? (1342)
Next, actually #define BLTOUCH (1399), then set the offsets (1551). Recommended -42,-5,0
Enable Multiple Probing and Extra Probing, you can up these numbers if you want but I think default is fine. (1617,1618)
Be sure to set z_after_probing (1637), 15 should be safe, and enable the z_min_probe_repeatability_test (1646).
Set a z_clearance_for_homing, 10 to 20 should be good. (1748)
Gonna disable the Zaxis software endstop, and enable the software endstops menu item. (1805,1829)
Then we go down and disable mesh_bed_leveling, and instead enable Auto_Bed_Leveling_Bilinear. (1988,1990)
You'll want to enable Restore after G28, at least that's what I'd recommend. (1997)
Also going to want to turn on the G26 mesh validation pattern, you may want it later. (2058)
Turn on subdivision for the bilinear leveling, shit really should be default at this point. (2090)
Finally, get in there and change the mesh_edit_z_step to 0.04, and then turn on z_safe_homing. (2163,2233)

That's it, everything else is optional, customize as desired, but that's all there is to it.
Remember, once this is installed you need to do a PID autotune for both the bed and the hotend, or you're gonna have a bad time.
Last video is fucked up, I did a gay, oh well.
(3/3)

>>2615509
try a different firmware and seriously look into building one yourself its not very hard do it in a linux virtual machine since youre probably a wintard think you can do it without opening it up, just shine a light through the grate to see board version and stepper types

>>2615938
add another wall layer and try again

>>2616134
It's Marlin, thanks to PlatformIO and ABM the process is identical between Windows and Linux, the VM would just be another layer of complexity and extra steps for someone who's not already familiar.

>>2616049
>ABS has horrid acrid smells
It depends on a blend. Chink spools are bad, some brandname have barely noticeable smell. Im printing 12$/kg locally made abs 24/7 in a small apartments with no problem. Printer is enclosed, but without any filters.

>>2616226
I'm using NovaMaker ABS smell is about as bad a PLA.


My pull request for Kingroon KP3S Pro and KP3S Pro S1 config files got accepted by Marlin.

>>2616244
>My pull request for Kingroon KP3S Pro and KP3S Pro S1 config files got accepted by Marlin.
I was looking at those configs just a little while ago, just got my first hands-on look at a KP3S Pro and am planning to grab one for myself soon, so thanks anon.
I'm gonna get all my old Robin Nano UI shit together and get it fixed up for current Marlin and the KP3S Pro so people can have a little more fun with these printers.
I'm not living without an encoder knob and animated bootscreen.

I want to cut 30mm out of the center of this stl I managed to import it to FreeCAD, but so far have failed to learn to CAD. Point me in the right direction.

>>2616302
Just do it in the slicer.

>>2616309
thanks I'll give that a try.

>>2616244
Why not make it use the portrait UI by default rather than sideways? I guess it's preference, I don't mind the portrait experience with this little touchscreen.
I'm running TFT_ROTATE_270 and put the touchscreen into portrait mode.

>>2616049
>PLA can smell sweet but it's not anything bad.
but is it a strong smell?
strong smells sometimes keeps me up at night, I bought a souse vide machine just to be able to cook meat without making the whole place smell like hot pepper.

>>2616334
It's not, most PLA has barely any aroma at all while printing, hardly noticeable without getting your face up in there.

Some brands will be worse than others, shit with additives tends to be the strongest, some silk/shiny PLA has a strong smell, some glow in the dark filaments can have a strong smell, wood filaments tend to have a noticeable but pleasant smell.

i can smell the pla gassing since i did some all metal mods and needed to pump the heat up like +10c

>>2616333
I cant get the touch screen to work properly in portrait mode so I just got used to landscape mode.

I will probably print out the parts to rotate the screen into landscape mode.

>>2616352
Here ya go, works without issue.
Thanks for your contribution, your configs will make a much easier starting point for using my Marlin fork.

>>2616354
thanks, I just had to comment out the calibration lines.

>>2616244
>NovaMaker ABS smell

I am printing novamaker less odor ABS green RN,
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CC7YJZQ

and I printed the novamaker sky blue which doesn't say less odor and it does seem to be a difference in odor smell level between the two.

>I eagerly unbox the enigmatic 3D printer, its origins enshrouded within the labyrinthine mists of China.
>Malevolent power lay dormant within, an entity imprisoned and forgotten.
>Whispers echo through the void.
>Cursed filaments weave intricate nightmares, my mind a wretched canvas for malefic artistry.
>Madness creeps, tendrils of insanity coiling around my soul, prints taking form, conjuring grotesque abominations that defy reason.
>I am captive to an insatiable obsession with my own facial hair, entrapped within a realm where sanity faltered and nightmare reigned.
>An insidious puppeteer leading me down a shadowed path, compelling me to invest my very essence into my own beard.
>Driven to the brink of my sanity, I found myself a vessel for forbidden alliance, diabolical influence converges, heralding an eternity of madness under the ghastly banner of the demon that has taken my mind.
>Vltava nek'mir'ath Jo gthu'vna,
>Disa'tha mnar'shiel yeek mglu'tha fhtagn,
>R'lyeh alz'ba mordha, Jo fhtagn!
>Lor'lokr bel'thras'oth vumis grik ph'nglui,
>Jo fhtagn
>Jo fhtagn
>Jo fhtagn

>>2616389
lmao why the fuck would they leave that in

>>2616398
I did that myself anon, I wanted to invoke feelings of unease, revulsion, a deep sense of discomfort, an instinctive wariness that leaves one disquieted.

>>2616389
very spooky anon
is there a tutorial for customising marlin like that?

Ok, which one of you did this? Raise your hand (at a 45 degree angle with the fingers outstretched flat)...

>>2616439
Forgot the pic:

>>2616425
Not that I'm aware of unfortunately, but that's easily remedied.
You can find the images in Marlin/src/lcd/tft/images/, they're RGB565 16bpp.
If you know what you're looking at when you find them there, then you probably don't need any further instruction.
Otherwise, all you need to know is these are big arrays of image data and they're really easy to make and replace.

picrel.jpg
Step 1) Find the bootscreen file for your given display resolution. On a KP3S Pro it's Marlin/src/lcd/tft/images/bootscreen_320x240x16.cpp, open it.
Step 2) Rip the guts out of that array, we're gonna replace that.
Step 3) Use this website because it's free and it works: https://notisrac.github.io/FileToCArray/ Select an image that you've already resized to the right resolution.
Step 4) See what we're doing here? Grab just the data, cut everything out from between the curly braces { }, then paste it back into the bootscreen file.
ezpz
If you get weird fucked up colors, then you might need to change Little Endian to Big Endian. I'm pretty damn sure it's Little Endian though, I just don't recall off hand.

By default in many Marlin installs, BOOT_MARLIN_LOGO_SMALL will be defined, which forces the use of bootscreen_195x59x16.cpp.
You can customize that if you'd like of course or just //comment out //#define BOOT_MARLIN_LOGO_SMALL in Configuration_adv.h, where you should also make sure SHOW_BOOTSCREEN is defined.

How reliable is glass fiber filaments through a 0.4mm nozzle?
Is it as clog prone as carbon fiber/fill?

I guess a better question to ask is what have the experiences been for Bambu carbon x1 owners with 3rd party fiber/glass fiber fill filament?
I hate to change the nozzle to 0.6 as you gain nothing except lower details

>>2616466
You gain speed and sometimes strength going to 0.6mm. It may or may not be worth it to keep trying 0.4mm with reinforced filaments (depending on the filament), but I know that the 3DXTech good-shit has worked much better out of a 0.6mm for me.
0.4mm is for Hot Glue targets, 0.6mm is for functional printing.

>>2616466 0.4 with fiber is hit and miss. For reliable printing use 0.5

The floppy disk guy has discovered chat gpt.

Is there a telegram group for cosplay stls? There are thousands for warhammer minis, I'm assuming there's one for cosplay

>sketchup 2017 crashed after like an hour of detailed work without saving

>>2616510
oh shit it autosaved, neat

anyhow no way in hell is this even going to print properly, but I'll try it anyhow

>>2616514
>how the hell it's going to stay on
>why in tf in the first place
way more than printing going wrong here

>>2616496
do you not know how to look yourself?

>>2616466
I can't even get all 4 of my AMS slots to feed regularly, I'm not throwing glass in this POS.

Neptune 3 Max is back up, worth?

>>2616131
just to make sure, after i made all the adjustments, i build it one last time and then put the firmware.bin file on the SD card and go?

>>2616081
Yeah, after posting that question I loaded grbl in vscode and had a look, doesn't appear to be too difficult really, just very unfamiliar with it all, gonna take my time a bit and check some videos on the subject while I wait for additional endstops to be delivered. Apparently I need 1 more for the slave axis, according to what Im reading in config.h anyways.

>This optional dual axis feature is primarily for the homing cycle to locate two sides of a dual-motor gantry independently, i.e. self-squaring. This requires an additional limit switch for the cloned motor. To self square, both limit switches on the cloned axis must be physically positioned to trigger when the gantry is square. Highly recommend keeping the motors always enabled to ensure the gantry stays square with the $1=255 setting.

>For Grbl on the Arduino Uno, the cloned axis limit switch must to be shared with and wired with z-axis limit pin due to the lack of available pins. The homing cycle must home the z-axis and cloned axis in different cycles, which is already the default config.

>The dual axis feature works by cloning an axis step output onto another pair of step and direction pins. The step pulse and direction of the cloned motor can be set independently of the main axis motor. However to save precious flash and memory, this dual axis feature must share the same settings (step/mm, max speed, acceleration) as the parent motor. This is NOT a feature for an independent fourth axis. Only a motor clone.

All I need to do is uncomment line 641 (the one below) and save, then reflash the firmware to my board and set up the hardware accordingly, I think?
>// #define ENABLE_DUAL_AXIS // Default disabled. Uncomment to enable.

>// Select the one axis to mirror another motor. Only X and Y axis is supported at this time. #define DUAL_AXIS_SELECT X_AXIS // Must be either X_AXIS or Y_AXIS

>>2616617
Yep Yep that's right

>>2616600
It's by far the best printer of that size at that price-point, it's competitors are all either worse, more expensive, or both.
If you're looking for a big printer and you can stomach that price, go for it, it's considerably better quality than a Kobra Max or the hilariously overpriced CR-M4.

>>2616627
I'll go for it. I was wanting a bigger printer but 500+ for a 350x350 just had me wanting to save a bit longer and build a Voron instead. But for that price a 400mm+ printer feels less redundant with an eventual Voron and gives me something for fuckhueg pieces

>>2616626
thanks a lot. ill try and figure out by myself how to actually use that thing now

Do you need a whole degree in mechanical engineering to take 3d printing to the next level or can you self-teach most of what you need? I want to make a hand-cranked centrifuge just for fun but I don't have the knowledge in my brain to know how to deconstruct that into smaller pieces of a whole. I feel like a lot of the things that would apply to 3d printing is 90% gears and different ways of applying torque.

>>2616697
3D printing: hobby mechanical engineering
No you dont need to be uber smart but being able to rotate a full colored apple in your mind while narrating about what you ate for breakfast yesterday does help
Crank > Vertical gear > Hoizontal gear with a vertical shaft that as your vials or whatever hanging from it. shrimple as

>>2615144
>>2615266
>>2612130
Backlash is not an issue in such a system, as it is nearly continuously preloaded by gravity.
Poorly made ball-joints do have backlash, but any semi reasonably designed and manufactured one shouldn't have it, as they are preloaded as well (notice the springs between arms on most deltas, these are there to preload the bearings).

>>2615266
A limiting factor for going fast (dynamics) is generally weight and rigidity, in which a delta is actually excels. Actuators are nicely situated far away from the payload, and the driving mechanism is very stiff (also compared to core x-y which is limited by the belt stiffness/belt preload depending on configuration). You will not have issues with this. This is also why the industry uses delta robots for fast pick and place operations. The only real disadvantage there is the footprint.

One of the main drawbacks for deltas in terms of position uncertainty/accuracy (Note: VERY different problem to dynamics) is the inherently high hysteresis that arises from the large amount of friction from the ball joints. Virtual play arises when you have a finite stiffness and some friction in a system, which causes position uncertainty. Any (contact) ball joint has some friction and this combines with the driving stiffness of the arms to form virtual play.
This is also the reason why most industrial delta robots have repeatability of ~100um or worse and even the best (ex Fanuc M-1ia) cannot surpass 20um repeatability. I am not sure exactly how they reach such a good repeatability, but the secret is in their (probably very expensive) ball joints.

Regardless, for 3d printers I have owned an FLSun SR, which had performed admirably. One of the printers with least hassles, only some layer bonding issues in the beginning until the glass plate kind of wore in. Only big disadvantage for me was the lack of an enclosure, and it was tall for the build volume, but I didn't mind it that much.
Currently I have an X1C.

>>2616714
(cont)
Currently I own an X1C, which is obviously a lot more compact and faster than the SR, but still there wasn't anything wrong with the SR, and I do miss the mesmerizing motion of the arms. It also was much quieter, only really making noise on fast retractions.
I might get a small upgraded delta some time, just for the hell of it.

tl;dr
Delta drawbacks are:
- Large for the build volume
- Due to large size also relatively expensive for build volume
- Inherently quickly limited by virtual play in their repeatability
Advantages are:
- High stiffness driving mechanism and low mass manipulator make for high position bandwidth
- Looks cool and fun to watch

So for practical printing and the most 'bang for buck' the other (way too salty) anons are right, core x-y makes most sense.
Then again, sports bikes also don't make sense for regular commuting and terrible 'bang for buck'... Deltas are still hella fun, and that counts for something too.

>>2616714
>One of the main drawbacks for deltas in terms of position uncertainty/accuracy
Delta precision is more than adequate for FDM. 0.1mm accuracy is easily achievable.
Delta printers are immune to VFA
Deltas are much simpler to make, 3 identical linear actuators
Only downside is size. Large height and ~300mm diameter limit.
FLsun V400 prints just as good as bambu-meme.

>>2616726
>Delta precision is more than adequate for FDM.
Totally true
>0.1mm accuracy is easily achievable.
I should fucking hope so because that would be horrifically bad even by bottom-dollar chinkshit standards, my 10-year-old shitbox printers are an order of magnitude more accurate.
I assume you pulled a number out of your ass that you thought sounded small, but 100 microns is fucking miles, a FULL step on the x or y axis of an Ender 3 is only 12.5 microns, a full step on the Z-axis is 2.5 microns.
50 micron accuracy on all axis should be achievable with virtually any well-tuned printer, even Prusa says so.
<50 with some some high quality filament and additional effort on your part should be *expected* of any printer that isn't a box of rice.


>FLsun V400 prints just as good as bambu-meme.
Just not at the same speeds, the bambu is still a faster printer.
A Prusa MK3 can print just as good as the V400 if you've got a day to wait for a Benchy.
What good's the comparison?

>>2616743
First of, accuracy is not the same as repeatability or precision.
> a FULL step on the x or y axis of an Ender 3 is only 12.5 microns, a full step on the Z-axis is 2.5 microns.
Those are both not repeatability numbers, but resolution. Move the axis from one end to the other and back, and measure how far it deviates from its initial position. That's repeatability.
>50 micron accuracy on all axis should be achievable with virtually any well-tuned printer, even Prusa says so.
Here you probably mean resolution, which is different still.
It should be noted that repeatability is less of an issue for most prints, and 100um repeatability does not mean that your features are limited to those dimensions. Because of the wide traces there's a lot of wiggle room.

>>2616726
>Delta precision is more than adequate for FDM.
No one ever claimed its not.
>0.1mm accuracy is easily achievable.
Accuracy is not precision. And you probably mean resolution, not accuracy nor precision.
>Delta printers are immune to VFA
Not really. That depends on frame rigidity and alignment.
>Deltas are much simpler to make, 3 identical linear actuators
Debatable, but can be a fair point for mass production.
>Only downside is size. Large height and ~300mm diameter limit.
Disagreed, see >>2616718
>FLsun V400 prints just as good as bambu-meme.
Depends on your definition of 'good'
Quality wise? Yeah sure. Speed wise? Not so sure. But I have no handson experience with the V400 to tell you whether thats the case or not.
As a comparison though, my SR was about twice as fast as my previous CR10, and the X1C about twice as fast still.

>>2615299
My P1P is my first printer and I had no idea what I was doing going into it, but it literally just works out of the box. Didn't need to change any settings.

>>2615301
>get a quote
why is it so difficult to just calculate the price based on filament used? no i dont want to contact some fucking sales rep and gEt A qUoTe for a plastic part worth less than a cent

>>2616651
occasionally the printer beeps really loud and says "Err: too far!" on the LCD for no apparent reason. dont know why this happens.
im also having trouble to get this shit to do a first layer print. im using the TeachingTech guides for using BLTouch and how to calibrate for a good first layer but the best i managed was putting some marks into my glass bed. i also tried using the old stock bed that came with the ender 3 and the filament is only piling up into a blob on the nozzle and not able to make anything stick.

when i first got this printer it would print fine out of the box but the more i started trying to dial shit in the more everything fell apart. before i got the BLTouch and the glass bed i could very consistently do the first layer test print from TeachingTech. i could even completely undo my bed leveling and start from scratch and eventually dial it in to get perfect results yet printing anything but the first layer test would end up with really messy first layers at best and no print at worst.
now with the BLTouch set up i dont even manage the first layer test anymore.