/diy/ - Do It Yourself

My nearly complete bench lamp, the one I am currently using sucks, I purposely made this one extra long since that was my main gripe with the other one being too short for me.

>>2606722
Neat, I want to see more of it.

>>2606723
Inspiration came from adam savage bench light, I just didn't need a huge panel. Bought 48 led cob led panels from ebay and these 16 led panel that I am trying out first.

I am modeling the connect/mount for the locline to the 2040 extrusion.

Here is a video, apologizes for the messy desk I was also working on other projects. In the vid you can see the bending doesn't stay all the time, I am only using 2x 3mm amrmature wires, adding a third one and hope it helps.
https://imgur.com/a/9LOGuJI

>>2606725
Fuckin' love it. I always have a surplus of LED shit, something like this would be a great use for some of what I've got laying around.

>>2606722
Ever thought about nigger rigging that into a combination solder fume extractor light?

>>2606752
Why not the full Cerberus, a light, fume extractor, and helping hands.

>>2606718
I want a 3d printer. I don't expect to use it very frequently. I also want to print figurines and detailed stuff.

If I buy a resin 3d printer, would it need any maintaining between use or would it be fine to let it sit for weeks?

>>2606760
You can let it sit for as long as you want so long as you clean up after you're done using it.
You do not want to leave resin in the vat in the long term.
When you're done printing, resin goes through a sieve back into the bottle, vat gets cleaned out thoroughly with a little isopropyl alcohol, that's all that's needed for it to be safe to leave it sitting for any amount of time without worrying about it.

what’s the move for making massive budget FDM printers- buy a second-hand creality and chuck it on some non-standard rails, or do the whole thing from scratch with Voron/Duet3D

>>2606778
Depends on your goals, but basically Voron.

>>2606768
Thank you very much for the info <3

>>2606781
i wanna do a 1mx1mx0.25m print volume area initially, mostly for PLA, then potentially up to 2mx2m in the future.
feel like the main thing i gotta worry about is kill the servos

>>2606793
That's large-format, way beyond the normal.
You're looking at a different weight class here, there aren't a lot of DIY examples out there.
ivanmirandawastaken on Youtube has a pretty solid build of a large-format printer, good example of a very DIY approach.
I wouldn't have scaled up CoreXY kinematics to that size but whatever.

>>2606793
Nothing stopping you from using beefier drivers and beefier steppers or servos than normal printers use. But you'll need some heavy members to get a rigid 1m or 2m gantry.

>>2606800
>I wouldn't have scaled up CoreXY kinematics to that size but whatever
The advantage of CoreXY is the lack of stepper motors increasing the moving mass. But with the weight of large gantries it's not that significant to also put motors on them, especially if you're using brushless servos instead of steppers.

>>2606800
>>2606803
think maybe i’ll scale up a mill type one like crazy

>>2606723
So pic related is the mount I revised last night. Maybe its not necessary,

I am *ASSUMING* with my pulling pushing the locline light around I would cause stress on the mount and eventually break. I came with an idea to use two FHCS from the bottom to the top and secure them with flat washer and nuts. On paper the two FHCS bolts would act similar to how rebar is used in concrete. But IDK I am completely making a guess on that.

>>2606750
all of the designing I have it on tinkercad. I am not very confident in my design choices to make it public, but at some point I'll just say fuck it and make it public for people to copy and tinker with.

>>2606752
I never liked having combined things like that. However, I have thought about using my 80mm fan with locline funnel on it. Similar to this thing for 40mm fan, but that's a down the road project.
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1625667

>>2606781
Complete newbie here, would doing a Voron from scratch be cheaper than buying some Creality or Sovol? I don't mind messing with electronics/building shit

crab

>>2606857
This is the Voron kit I got, probably slightly cheaper than sourcing yourself, and I'm very happy with the quality. Keep in mind that you will have to add a Pi to that cost, and printed parts kit (I recommend the Voron Discord buy/sell section if you aren't going to print them yourself).
https://www.3dprintersbay.com/corexy-3d-printers/voron-2

I'm trying to source STLs like this for a friend. I've heard there are some groups or something where i can find them? Any help?

>>2606944

theres a t.me group miniatureSTL that has eNs packs in there. Check them out.

>>2606944

I would ask if allowed, in 3dpg over at /tg/ >>88595070

>>2606970

oh IDK how to do linking to another board..
Maybe...

>>>88595070
/tg/88595070
>>/tg/88595070

fuck idk

>>2606857
Well, no, definitely not.
Basic Creality or Sovol printer, <$200 USD.
Cheap Voron, >$800 USD.
There are NO Creality or Sovol products that could be considered comparable to or competitive with a Voron Trident or 2.4.

Creality is trying with their new K1, but nobody has one yet, there are no reviews, there's a genuine chance it might be a piece of shit and the price isn't justified.
We won't know for awhile, and their launch was so jank my hopes are not high for it, I see it as a cash grab.
They're gonna do what Prusa does, sell an incomplete product that can't do what they advertise it to do.

>>2606973
>>2606970

>>>/tg/88595070

>>2606996
>needs 3 >
>only used 2 >

For fuck sakes. Thanks anon.

>>2606936
>>2606857
there's no way an average person can scratch-build for cheaper than the kit. It's a great project to scratch-build though. I read this blog from this retired guy who spent four years building a biplane from plans. Some of the dimensions were wrong, he had to redraw the whole thing in CAD, and basically it was 100% suffering. But this? The documentation and resources are so good it's like going on vacation.

Anyone have suggestions for good 3d printer youtube channels?

>>2607106
Love that light blue, What brand? Is the yellow Inland/esun by any chance?

>>2607170
Define good?
TeachingTech, Maker's Muse, CNC Kitchen, all easy to recommend.
3DPrintingNerd is great if you just want to see new stuff all the time, it's not actually been about printing a while now, but his "status" gets him hands-on with a lot of cool shit.

>>2607170
This Anon's list is decent >>2607178
Voidstar labs is alright too, he's really fucking annoying personality wise though but some of the content he covers is decent

i hope relativity space start manufacturing and sell their printer set-up to other the aerospace companies.
the trickle-down effect on metal printing would be insane

>>2606996
Well that was a weird adventure, is this what all adult-sized children do when they're not at the conventions?
I knew they cocooned themselves into a basement, I just never imagined they were doing anything down there.

>>2607106
Are you making a hand-wheel CNC controller thing? Interesting choice to slice it into three, as opposed to putting the middle shell behind the front panel and just supporting the front panel up (or using arc overhangs, idk).

Also why the hearing-aid beige?

>>2607106
I liked the dark blue you had, very sechs.

recently aquired an LD-002? resin printer, (inb4 cRaLiTy SuCkS lOl) and had a really dumb idea... cense its literally a voxel map of "screen_res_X *screen_res_y * (max number of layers)"... what would it take to somehow convert raw voxel data into the printer's input format? (*.ctb)

also whats a good brand of (low odder) resin to use? and is the "pan" intended to be replaced? its kind of dinged up and foggy

>>2607251
>what would it take to somehow convert raw voxel data into the printer's input format? (*.ctb)
Make a feature request in UVtools, or fork it yourself. Watch it, some of those LCDs have somewhat different X vs Y pixel dimensions, resulting in oblong pixels. And naturally the layer height is going to be different again. I'd just slice a model and turn off antialiasing.

>>2607251
First, go download UV Tools, it's your best low-level down and dirty tool for doing fun things with resin printers.
If you want to make PCBs, silkscreen fabrics, or do your nails the nerdy way, you need UV Tools.

Your resin vat is the "tray" or "pan" that holds your resin while you print.
The vat consists of a frame and a sheet of FEP film. That FEP film is the main wear item for resin printers.
It's cheap so long as you buy it in any quantity, don't buy singles or 3-packs they're overpriced as fuck.
You replace it pretty regularly as it gets scratched, stretched, hazy, whatever.
It's not just remove and replace, it has to be tensioned like a drum, but it's absolutely not hard at all.
Might be worth watching a video or something first to get a better idea of what's what before you try your first, might save a headache.
It's also delicate enough to be one of your biggest failure concerns with a resin printer, a failed print could tear the FEP film and allow resin to leak directly onto the screen beneath it, and potentially down inside where it can nuke the UV lights.

>>2607251
>xored RLE compressed data
may be beyond my java expertise. but i knew the files on the usb stick were encrypted/compressed in SOME way, model name of the printer is in the files
>CREALITY LD-002R
may end up poking a stick at the file format in the morning
>>2607262
>damaging resin spills
aye, doesn't look like that happened here from its previous owner, was a little dusty inside because of the fans, but i dont think it made it into anywhere important

>>2607267
The file format ain't shit, it's just Chitu's standard format used by several different printers.
I remember when Elegoo first started using the encryption, people lost their shit, fucking retards didn't know that it was a already a documented part of the standard and existing tools already supported the encrypted format.

Here's a good look at the format, albeit an outdated one, everything here still applies: https://github.com/cbiffle/catibo/blob/master/doc/cbddlp-ctb.adoc

>>2607268
The absolute best tool for anything related to ctb files: https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools
It's extremely versatile. I most frequently use it to fine tune and troubleshoot resin prints after slicing.
Easiest and best way to convert between sliced files and images, perfect for making silkscreens exposing PCBs, or making high quality lithophanes.
Also usable from the console/command line, which makes it easy to even bigger, dumber shit, like using it with Python scripts.

i wanna do a sword on the CR-30 but the curve for my design makes it wider than bed
theoretically i can still do this tho right? i would have to move the piece during the print and somehow account for that with the g-code

>>2607330

>>2607330
You cannot move your print during the print.
You cannot pause it, move it, reaffix it, and have a good time.
Best case scenario, with a huge amount of luck, you get results worse than if you just printed it in multiple pieces and put them together when you're done.
If it's not too huge, you can tilt it and use supports, you get just a hair over 260mm corner to corner on that thing.

>>2607330
Orient it edge-up with lots of supports?

>>2607174
the light blue and white (natural) are Inland ABS. Yellow is hatchbox/polymaker.
>>2607249
The design has problems. The front was supposed to be aluminum sheet, but I got lazy, which is why it's not even a sheet anymore. That version was an excuse to play with the fancy surfacing tools.
>>2607249
>why the hearing-aid beige?
I had almost a full kg lying around and I forgot how much PLA sucked. I always try to pick the most disgusting colors anytime I buy filament, but with ABS the parts still look good sometimes, even if it's warped to hell.

Is there any simple filament changers projects? 2 spools is more than enough.
I have one free stepper slot so maybe i could use a ender3 style extruder gear and push it against 2 filament lines with a servo? Then park it in the middle.

>>2606944
there's a gorillion telegram groups for that, doesn't really matter which one you pick as i'm pretty sure they're all mirrors of each other and all managed by the same people

>>2605651
>PLA +, Ender 3 V2, 220c
Sounds like a too hot problem, 200c will reduce this.

I've been having extruder/nozzle issues as well, started printing with a year old esun pla+ which I forgot to cover up, started off extremely grainy and immediately knew I probably fucked up my nozzle/hotend with dusty garbage. Swapped hotend with a cheap knock-off mk-8, same issue, cleaned the stock ender 3 hotend, was all gunked up. It looks like I cleaned out everything, but upon swapping hotends again and foolishly trying the same roll of pla+, it just stopped printing after doing the first 2 passes very nicely. It looked great so I walked away, was a short print so I thought it'd be fine, but probably immediately after I walked away it just stopped extruding and was printing nothing for 20 mins straight.

Finally got some new pla to print with today as everything else I had was old as well, but if the new pla doesn't work I'm going to take out the stock bowden tube and replace it with the capricorn I have laying around, if that doesn't work I'm probably going direct drive.

All damn expensive for a whole bunch of nothing though, biqu h2 is the cheapest I can find, but reviews are hit or miss. I haven't looked at diy direct drives yet, but if anyone knows of a couple that can be made for less than whatever those storebought direct drives go for, please link them. Lighter is better obviously, not going to do the stock ender 3 parts conversion which weighs over half a kg.

>>2607418
buy a cheapass food dehydrator and dry out your filaments man

>>2606718
this new op format gives me a big headache

>>2607337
fuck you i’ll figure it out

>>2607268
documentation is nice but code is completely useless unreadable troon garbage, I'm only a novice java programmer after all

>>2607346
>light blue and white (natural) are Inland ABS

Interresting, my light blue abs from inland is much lighter shade. Any chance you have the SKU/UPC on the spool?

>>2606760
you absolutely have to have a resin to do figure and there is no such thing as too many figures so you should just run that bitch as fast as you can dl terabytes of stls.

>>2606778
1. get any faggot shit tier bed slinga
2. print voron parts
3. pair with voron kit
4. build voron
5. print voron parts on both
6. pair with vorn kit
7. build voron
repeat

when you have a number of voron printers s.t. you can print an entire voron in one go start selling the vorons you print. simple tycoon logic.

>>2606810
1. build belt printer on free craigslist treadmill
2. intertub famise

>>2607366
all groups are not created equal

Verification not required.

>>2607330
section and glue. handle and hilt are low effort places to make it snap together, blade sections would require finishing.

>>2607250
>>2607106
dafuq is wrong with your mouse?

>>2607434
a solvol is cheaper than a dehydrator unless you find one in the trash

>>2607509
you can get a dehydrator on amazon for 40bux, I see the sovol dryer for like 60

Just bought a bambu P1P, then seen the k1 announced, has anyone actually had hands-on time with the k1?
Seen a lot of people criticise the k1 for being a rushed out counter to the bambu printers, and that it will likely be a bugfest broken release as with many creality 1st gen printers.
I've had an ender 3 for years that 'just werks' but that wasn;t an early version so not sure how valid these criticisms are.
Anybody bought into an early release creality and experience the 'bugfest'?

Has Fusion360 absolutely shit the bed for anyone else? It takes full minutes to open a sketch plane in an empty document. Editing is impossible. It's been like this for like a month maybe. Any ideas?

>>2607526
you'll be happy with the P1P, no remorse

Can I use Nomad Sculpt if I intend to make STL files for PLA printing? I'm really interested in crating my own articulated animals.

>>2607451
Thanks for noticing, I hate it myself but decided 5 minutes of effort was more than enough.

>>2607544
it's been super laggy for me after i reinstalled it, even dragging the window it shits itself.
>>2607546
It'll be a welcome upgrade sure, but is it worth the +£100 premium? Creality has the benefit that it's so popular you can easily get replacements and upgrades from 3rd parties. Always got working profiles and community support.
like for like i'd rather have the £100 in my pocket, but without seeing a K1 review it's hard to say how much of the k1 is marketing puff. think the creality screen is a bit better than the p1p display too.

>>2607526
The first ones are supposed to hit the shore this week, NOBODY has been hands on with one.
It's probably gonna be crap, and it's not priced low enough to be a good value. It's a ~14% discount for what I think is safe to assume will be far in excess of 14% worse.
Just wait for the modded K1s where folks are "hitting Bambu numbers" having only spent an additional $90.

I don't normally shit on Creality so hard, but they pulled this one out of their ass, surprise-launched it, their promising too much and the price ain't low enough.
Doesn't mean it'll be a flop, but I won't even consider it until it's $100 off and has several long-term owners who've found and fixed the out-of-the-box problems.

Can you imagine being one of the first people to buy an Ender 3 without any prior 3D printing experience, and no online resources?
Day 2, extruder arms breaks, you don't know what it's called and you don't know what MK8 refers to, and your Google searches only return the press releases and news coverage of the "New Ender 3." You're dead in the water while people who had already been printing for 8 years prior are giggling at their discount China toy and making the tutorials and videos that would later guide countless noobs to acceptable results.

>>2607558
does really seem rushed AF, that's why i've been looking for reviews other that "lets look at the specs", but had no luck
guess I'll just sit it out and wait for reviews before deciding if I wanna keep this P1P.

>>2607526
>>2607557

First reviews from customers within China are out, and the results are bad, wow what a surprise.
I doubt their legitimacy, because obviously why would these be trustworthy, but fun nonetheless.

(1/2)

What is best general purpose printing head project? Wanna upgrade my flFyingbear Reborn2 with something lighter and with more flow.
Extruder will be Sailfin. Light cheap and easy to print.
Standard dual 4010 cooling.
Also a have a spare CHT Pro heater with titanium heatbreak. But sadly no special heatsinks, only generic v6 with ring mount.
Klickyprobe would be nice too.

>>2607564
The thin bed is a real problem, there's no question as to why glass or thick milled aluminum are preferable, cheap thin beds fucking suck.
I am willing to bet that the panel gap is real, and I look forward to the reviews that blatantly ignore it, and the tutorial videos about the various ways to fix it.
I think it looks like a flimsy piece of shit. Even if it's a Bambu P1P in every way, just made a little cheaper, then it's a P1P with corners cut, what's the appeal?
I think it's going to be their saddest product to date.

Am dumbass and walked away after clicking Submit, didn't see that it failed. Good sandwich though.
(2/2)

New Prusa firmware out, fun watching the cult celebrate how they still don't have input shaping on the $800 bedslinger they bought because Beardy said it'd have input shaping.

>>2607434
those things are completely unnecessary when I can just put it next to my heater for a day or 2 which has basically the same effect. there wasn't much left on the spool anyways and I think it was mostly the dust gunking it up, but yeah, it snapped pretty easily when I just took it out, had to disassemble the enitre hotend cause it was stuck and broke off in the bowden tube, so it definitely needs some dehydrating. new pla works great, no more problems, esun epla-st, printing it at the recommended pla settings in cura at 200 degrees cause I already generated the gcode weeks earlier, spool says 210-230 is better, still works great at 200.

>>2607609
Jesus fucking christ they've added a post-processor to the firmware to detect and modify gcode intended for MK3 printers on the fly, so MK4 owners can use their old gcode without the effort of slicing.

Desperately sad userbase.

>>2607331
wow i really hate this and also want to build this

>>2607609
>$800 bedslinger

What should I buy, a Prusa MK4 for $1100, or a Creality K1 for $600 + $500 for upgrades and stuff?
I don't trust Bambu because they're new, I feel safe with Creality and Prusa.
I just want to print fast, the MK4 and the K1 are both supposed to be fast.

>>2607648
Don't touch the K1 until reviews come out. A grand for a bedslinger seems silly

>>2607651
So the MK4 then!
What makes the K1 a bedslinger and why is that bad?

>>2607653
The MK4 is the bedslinger. It slings a bed back and forth, more mass is moving which means it takes longer to slow down. That's part of why CoreXY printers (ones where only the print nozzle moves not the bed) can go faster

>>2607654
Alright, I've read into this more, and I'm really not understanding this.
Why is the Prusa so expensive? There are printers that seem way, way better for the money.

This guy has that Fyingbear Reborn2 >>2607584
The reviews look great, it's cheaper than a Prusa or a K1 but has a mains voltage bed instead of 24V like the Prusa and Creality printers, so it should heat up way faster, and the nozzle gets 50C hotter, it's got drivers that do sensorless homing but the Prusa doesn't.
It doesn't run klipper like the K1, but that's only $30 - $40 for a thing to run klipper.
I figure the Bambu is $200 more but has the first layer scanner calibrator shit so you get something for that money.

Why is the Prusa $800?
It's like a sv06 with a die-cast frame, what am I missing?

>>2607678
Fuck knows why Prusa stuff is so expensive. From what I've heard they are really straight forward and easy to setup and use

>>2607678
>Fyingbear Reborn2
looks reasonable
>two z motors
>ender bed screws
>the ender bed also
rip in piece
>>2607687
>From what I've heard
The ones at my makerspace have comically low uptime -- I've seen exactly one guy print something on it, it took two days moving at like 30 mms^-1 and he left a sign on the enclosure. After that, the usual sign was back which explains that there is some filament feed /extruder problem which nobody can be bothered to fix.
The machines that actually do all the printing are probably even shittier, but they come with a service contract so nobody besides the company that fixes them knows how shitty they actually are.
We also bought a Bambu w/ AMS, the prints look great. Plus it comes with botnet enabled by default so it will also notify Mark & Randi (mandatory) how great your prints are.

am I finally butting up against CURA's retardation or my own?

>modeling the simplest of sieves
>all square 150x150 with 8mm square holes
> all it has to do is draw a square and straight lines through it this should be a 50 minute print max
> estimated time is 2 hours
>"well at least its faster than most of my projects
>start the print and the absolute fuckwit of a machine starts drawing each of the 16x16 rows of squares one at a fucking time

I knew this should have taken way less time. the grid was designed to be 3x my .6 nozzle at 1.8mm for the lines to be laid down.

I tried to set the infill to 0% and the walls to 3 and it actually adds more fucking details+ 4 minutes.

top and bottom layers set to 1 gets me to 1 hour 17 minutes but the cunt is still drawing squares like a fucking child and then wants to go in between them in random patterns. I don't see any other settings that would change what I want any advice?

>>2607722
Use SuperSlicer, turn on one-loop perimeters.

>>2607722
>start the print and the absolute fuckwit of a machine starts drawing each of the 16x16 rows of squares one at a fucking time
because it assumes that you care about the holes being dimensionally accurate.
it's why perimeters go down before infill. infill overlaps with walls to make sure that there is a strong bond with the walls. if you don't do the perimeters first, that overlap will be propagated outwards and the holes would be even more undersized than normal.

in other words, with 3d printing, you make a shell, the shell hardens and is locked in place, and then you fill the inside of the shell with structural material. the machine is not perfect, and by working outside-in, it minimizes tolerance stackup.

it paths between them "randomly" because it's trying to minimize the likelihood of plastic dripping out of the nozzle and leaving rough patches while traveling.

tl;dr i think you are retarded my man

>>2607722
>>2607733
also install the cura settings guide plugin. it tells you what the settings do.

>>2607648
>I don't trust Bambu because they're new
their customer support is not great but the product is.

>>2607753
>buying from chinese company
>expecting customer support

Am I the only one that knows customer support is non existent with chinese companies, and any that actually do have customer support is mainly a much bigger company.

>>2606718
I'm finally sick of how noisy my silent board Ender 3's stock fans are. Are Noctua's 12v fans + step down regulators the go to for silent fans or are there better options nowadays?

So my school/makerspace is giving us a little bit of funding and we're waiting to receive the machine listed below. Have somewhere in the neighborhood of about $150 that we can still spend on supplies and replacement parts.
Anybody have any recommendations for free software or tips of the trade? I'm a new myself but they required us to Make a proof of concept and try this cheaper machine before they're ready to commit to more funding with a more expensive or comprehensive device. Ideally we're going to make up some of the money we spend by selling wood or acrylic etched designs with the booster club or something similar.
https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Genmitsu-3018-PROVer-Switches-Emergency-Stop/dp/B07ZFD6SKP?ref_=ast_slp_dp

>>2607774
No, its really annoying when people switch to noctua's then wonder why their printer is even getting more shitty.

But yeah go ahead and do it, follow the crowd, then come back asking for help when more problems are happening on your printer because you swapped to weaker fans.

>>2607789
>or are there better options nowadays?
You could've just suggested a better alternative

>>2607790
eh I got pissy, I reread your post, you aren't asking about hotend/print cooling fans are you?

>>2607792
>eh I got pissy
Kek I feel like years of bait posts and shitposting have driven us crazy
Yeah I wanted to swap all of the fans, but I've heard people had some troubles with the Noctua's on the stock hot end. And then I've read that other swap in fans are just as noisy as the stock Hot End fans. Is it better to just print a new enclosure and use larger fans at lower volumes to reduce noise?

>>2606718
I finely got a good build of Marlin for the Kingroon KP3S Pro and KP3S Pro S1 3D printers that are equipped with a BL-Touch. Marlin is compiled from the bugfix-2.1.x branch, all previous version would ignore the probe offset, Marlin has also been tuned to my printer so you may have to futzz around with the steps/mm settings
a little.

>magnet:?xt=urn:btih:e1d531dcf9d1543bcdb924ac1ca04fcdeacf3a25&dn=KP3S_Pro_S1.zip&tr=udp%3a%2f%2fopen.demonii.com%3a1337%2fannounce&tr=udp%3a%2f%2fexodus.desync.com%3a6969&tr=http%3a%2f%2ftracker.gbitt.info%3a80%2fannounce&tr=udp%3a%2f%2fexplodie.org%3a6969&tr=udp%3a%2f%2ftracker.openbittorrent.com%3a80&tr=https%3a%2f%2finferno.demonoid.is%2fannounce

>>2607771
working directly with chinese is always a mistake. if you can buy a chinese thing through aliexpress or alibaba, they'll always work something out.
i've literally never been fucked by the chinese through aliexpress. even if they send me busted garbage, i dispute it and i get refunded.

>>2607526
>Just bought a bambu P1P, then seen the k1 announced
The memes are real

>>2607803
Cheers, i have bought the BL-Touch and i have the Pro S1, but didn't do the work yet. To be honest, so far it prints very well on the glass (however, i should use my own firmware, bad PID tuning seems to leave artifacts on my prints).
Thanks for the magnet, but you have to seed that shit or better yet, upload it to gdrive or something.

>>2607838
>comparing blind consumerism to anon's concern about his choice of printer for the years to come
If you just want to post that picture simply check out any thread on /g/

>>2607851
>simping for a consumerist

>>2607838
>k1
that was quick
excited to see the new race to the bottom
250$ bambu clones in 1 year i reckon.

>>2607857
We can only win in these races.
Still going for Prusa, because Opensource and fuck the Chinese Communist Party. FUCK EM!

getting a petamentor going, been playing with flow rate but print quality leaves a lot to be desired, from left to right 110% 120% 125%
any ideas on other parameters to adjust? I'm using the standard PETG profile from prusaslicer as base with temps 265/60, adhesion is good

>>2607866
forgot pic

>>2607866
did you dry your filament?

>>2607860
>Prusa
You could build a superior non-bedslinger for cheaper. The fuck is the point of an open source design if you're opposed to building your own shit anyhow?

>>2607876
>You could build
Stopped reading there. I have shit to do.
>The fuck is the point of an open source design
You wouldn't get it.

>>2607803
>>2607841
I got the file and will seed it for some time.
How did you hook up the BL-Touch to the mainboard?
Thanks anyway, should save me some hours of work man :-)

>>2607876
>did you dry your filament?
I literally cut the bottle right before printing this lmao

>>2607838
what's meme-tastic about that anon? please elaborate, I'm not on your level of shitpostery.

>>2607910
Think harder.

>>2607917
Think you need to stop baiting (you)'s to fill your meagre existence

>>2607919

>>2607784
Poor bastards, what a waste of money. They should've bit the bullet and bought a decent used mill if they wanted a mill, or they should've bought a laser cutter for engraving/cutting, you'd have gotten more working area out of a similarly priced laser.
If it's in a school or makerspace it's going to be destroyed VERY quickly. Is there someone responsible for maintaining and repairing it?
It's a toy machine. Great for a hobbyist to dip their toes in and have fun, but a terrible thing to subject students to.
Gonna have a bad time.
Try desperately to get them to stick to 2.5D operations and NEVER mill anything harder than Acrylic, I wouldn't even try to engrave aluminum. It totally COULD, but some retard will do some major damage if they're allowed to try.

In your situation y'all should get Carbide Create and never ever allow anyone to use anything else.
It's the safest option that'll at least keep people from really fucking it up.

These cheap Chinese desktop mills are toys, very cool toys, but still delicate low-powered toys that are easy to break.
If there isn't someone there already experienced with them, it's gonna become trash in the corner. Prepare yourself to low-ball them on it once it starts collecting dust, assuming you can keep track of how badly it's ruined before then.

>>2607860
Still waiting for any source for the new MK4.
What are the odds they never publish step files for that new die-cast frame they're using?

Ranellucci's face should be plastered on Prusa products, Joseph only likes opensource because it means free volunteer labor and buzzword advertising.
>inb4 faggots misattribute 90% of 3D printing history to a bearded Mendel kit salesman.

Thanks China, I needed this to go with my morning coffee: (Creality K1 Unboxing) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOxxoCvMWaE

im slapping a chimera clone (2 in 2 out) on my e3, does anyone have a good tutorial for setting up a custom machine profile in cura to get it working? like how to figure out the printhead min/max x and y, extruder start and stop gcode and nozzle offsets, etc.
i mean most of it is self explanatory, but i just want to be sure im doing it right rather than have to fuck with it for a 2 days for nothing.

also how do i set up my bltouch settings so that it probes properly with the large offset it has now? i have to set the probe offsets further than it actually is just to get it to actually touch the bed and even then its nowhere near center or even on its pattern. pic related, i do only 3x3 but its way offset forward and to the left.

>>2607931
Video uploaded by Bambu labs.

>>2607933
Firmware first, then slicer settings.
Marlin or Klipper? I'mma assume Marlin.
Need to start with NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET and related Z-probe / BLtouch settings in Marlin's configuration.
Your printer is a great measuring tool. Fire it up, jog the hotend to somewhere near the middle, put something on the bed to mark that spot (I usually just set a screwdriver down with the tip just touching the nozzle tip), and note the coordinates; then jog the hotend around until the probe is lined up, note the coordinates, and find the difference between the first set.
You now have your nozzle to probe offset.
You can do the same thing for hotend clearance, set a straight edge on the bed, line up the nozzle, move the hotend until the WHOLE hotend is clear of that point, note the position and repeat for the other dimensions.
You also need to set up the bed leveling in firmware, UBL or plain old bilinear ABL. If using UBL, drop the max points significantly for such a small bed (4x4 is PLENTY, 6x6 if you're nuts, but the default 10x10 is for really big and really shitty beds.), and you'll want a significant mesh inset (I'd make it 5mm larger than the larger measurement of nozzle-to-probe offset) because of your large nozzle/probe offset, otherwise there are going to be LOTS of unpopulated points to fix manually later.
(1/2)

>>2607933
>>2607955
Once you've done that, more measuring, with the printer again so it's easy. First you home it, then you see how far you can travel in each direction, that's your travel range.
Is the nozzle overlapping the bed for ALL of that? If not, you can adjust accordingly, it's not at all unusual for the printer to be able to travel beyond the size of the bed.
X_BED_SIZE/Y_BED_SIZE correspond to the size of the printable area, then you have your X_MAX_POS/Y_MAX_POS, etc for any travel range outside of that.
The bed is always assumed to start at 0,0 in the "bottom-left" corner, so if the nozzle starts off that bed, that's negative range. On the printer next to me for example, it homes to -4,-15, has to move 4mm right and 15mm back to reach the bed from the home position, the bed is 235x235, but the max position is 250,250 because I have a total range of motion of 254x265mm. That making sense I hope?

Once that shit's set up in firmware, the slicer is easy, it's mostly just some of the same settings from the firmware repeated so the slicer is aware of them.
(2/2)

>>2607957
I'd say I'm trying to help but really I just wanted to draw that dragon, so fuckin' rad.

>>2607841
>>2607884
I used the instructions on the Kingroon blog

>https://kingroon.com/blogs/downloads/kingroon-kp3s-bltouch-installation

I was pretty happy with the stock firmware, but my bed was .4mm higher in the center of the plate and on top of that, my glass plate was warped. I used some percussive maintenance on the bed and installed a magnetic metal bed and got bed down to .1mm variance, then installed the bltouch. Kingroon has you install the bltouch firmware but it doesn't work, just read the comments on the blog, and when you re-install the stock firmware, also from the blog, the bed size is fucked up.

I'm getting pretty good results with the Marlin firmware, I also included the config files for Marlin and firmware and printer.cfg for Klipper.

>>2607955
>>2607957
awesome, ill give that a shot later on.
im also having some issues with cura being stupid, 1) how the fuck can i copy over my print setting profiles from one machine to another without having to do it by hand? its real fuckin annoying trying to edit configs like a normal person but the cura rejects them for some stupid reason. 2) how can i do dual material setups without having to have a profile for every. single. fucking. combination? i figured you could set a profile to each nozzle, but apparently you cant so id realllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly rather not have to make like 40 different profiles out of the 10 i already have for various materials just to have certain combinations of each i might like to use. and yes ive tried importing, but it throws every complaint in the book when i try to cross import and again of course manual editing causes it to outright reject it.

>>2607995
Just sounds like troubles with Cura.
I'm one of the faggots who can't help but scream about hating Cura at every possible opportunity.

Use a GOOD slicer like PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, Bambu Studio, or OrcaSlicer.
Makes every single fucking thing better, faster, and easier.

>>2607989
Cheers.
You are a scholar and a real hero.
My glass plate is fine, i also have ordered the PEI sheet. Changing between glass and PEI back and forth would need constant calibration, so i have printed with glass only so far.

>>2607998
>Bambu Studio
They truly have invented the best slicer.

>>2608004
Meh, it's a PrusaSlicer skin with poor color choices and slightly better supports (which Prusa has since shat on with their organics).
It's "fine," like PrusaSlicer is "fine." I'd take either over Cura.
Really I just want the faggots making SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer, and Pleccer to all get together and have a slicer orgy, then Prusa can fold it back into PrusaSlicer and Bambu can adopt it in-situ, that way I can stop using so many fucking slicers that are all slightly improved versions of Slic3r.

I really hate that between PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, and BambuStudio (and now Orca Slicer) I have to remember so many different placeholder names. Fuck you guys, could've stuck with the originals from Slic3r and expanded from there, could've stuck with the improved PrusaSlicer set, but all these niggas gotta go down the list and rename all the variables whenever they decide to fork a repo, and changing their minds about in which custom g-code sections you can use certain placeholders, such useless time-wasting faggots.

>>2608013
>PrusaSlicer
Bearded man detected. You sound jelous. How are sales with the MK4 going?

>>2608013
Where did prusaslicer come from? Slic3r.

>>2608031
Sorry to disappoint, but I vomit putrid streams of Prusa hate in every thread.
I'm sure the Mk4 is selling great, it's just a shame that their customers are exclusively retarded.

>>2608038
>>2608013
>so many fucking slicers that are all slightly improved versions of Slic3r.

Seeing the first confirmed K1 deliveries outside of China today.
1 Jap, 1 Aus (wtf?), and a couple of Americans, no europoors yet.

Can't wait for the reviews, it's always so fun.
Fingers crossed for a full-on dumpster fire, I desperately want a reviewer to be injured or have their shop catch fire, it's been too long since we've had a *really good* review.

Anyone with an Ender 3 Neo setup Marlin on it? Can I just use the Neo V2 profile and it works? I know they are the same hardware wise other than the colour screen

>>2608045
You building Marlin from scratch?
"Neo" means CR-Touch + good build plate.
From a firmware standpoint, it's just a normal Ender 3 with a CR-Touch on it.
Start from the official example configuration, it was added a couple months ago: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/import-2.1.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Neo

>>2607998
but i like cura otherwise :(

>>2608045
>>2608050
To be clear, it's not like a V2, don't use V2 shit, you don't have a filament runout sensor or the color screen, which are the main differences.

>>2608050
Oh cool it has one. Last time I looked it only had a profile for the Neo V2
As some one who can follow instructions is installing it straight forward?

>>2608052
The Neo V2 doesn't have a filament runout sensor. The only differences are the colour screen, build plate and that its mostly assembled. I know you need to do something else to get the colour screen to work which is why I wanted to ask before I begin to fuck around.

I only want to change the firmware cos it crashes sometimes for no reason when I navigate the menu. Quality Chinese products

All I need next is to get a usb-c hub that can charge my phone + a data only cable to go to the printer so I can use octoprint

>>2608053
The V2 isn't the one with the runout sensor? God damn I hate Creality and their 14 models of Ender 3.

Building Marlin and installing it is usually pretty fucking easy if you can follow instructions.
Assuming you're on Windows:
You install VSCode, you go to extensions, and you find and install PlatformIO and AutoBuildMarlin.
You download Marlin and the configuration. You want bugfix-2.1.x, because the Ender-3 Neo profile is from that configuration set. Specifically these:
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/archive/bugfix-2.1.x.zip
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/bugfix-2.1.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Neo
The .h files from the configuration all go into the Marlin folder, Marlin-bugfix-2.1.x\Marlin\
They'll overwrite the existing Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h in that folder.
In VSCode, File->Open Folder, select the Marlin-bugfix-2.1.x folder; this might take a awhile, especially the first time.
Near the top of the window you'll see the AutoBuildMarlin tab is open, you go there and click "build."

Super complicated stuff, takes monkeys several attempts I'm sure.

>>2608063
But wait, Creality had to go and make it a little bit harder for us.
They've been switching up the parts in use on certain boards, so even knowing which printer you have and which board it has doesn't *actually* tell you which chip is on it, so you don't know which environment to build for! picrel.jpg

Sadly, it does matter, and the only way to know for sure is to just look with your eyeballs.

>>2608068
There's also GD32 based ones around too... Fucking hate Creality god dammit, making the easy things hard.

>>2608068
So I got to open my printer to look at what's on the board?

>>2608078
Sadly, yes. They really fucked that one up.
One of the nicest parts of the 32-bit mainboards was including bootloaders, so you can update firmware from the SD card without opening the thing up and getting at the guts.
Then they start using different chips on boards without anything to identify them from the outside, so now niggas gotta go opening them again just so they can see what they've got.

Pretty gay.

>>2608089
>China
Never again

Has anyone actually print the honeycomb storage wall? I normally avoid overhyped prints, which I initially thought of honeycomb storage wall as one of those.

But, I am starting to wonder if its actually good, since I am looking for something as an alternative to pegboard/ikea skadis, and have it be cheaper.

>https://www.printables.com/model/152592-honeycomb-storage-wall

I'll be preemptive, and give a little info to answer potential questions.

Main use would be to hang my tools (crimpers, cutter, wire strippers, pliers) to this, and breadboard jumper wires as well. What I hang will be things that don't protrude so far out and cause bending/sagging/excess wear.

>cant even post the fucking pic
>even saved it as jpeg
>metadata still says webp

4chan needs to support this shitty image file, more and more fucking websites are using it now.

>>2608144
It's fun, and enough people like it that you find plenty of shit for it, just like how Gridfinity is fun and you can find plenty of shit for it.
You don't have to start out all fuck-huge either, you can always make more, you can always expand on what you've got.
Do it, I really doubt you'll be disappointed.

>>2608150
Yeah good idea to start small, I printed one too many popular things only to be disappointed, avoided gridfinity, but gave it a shot, openscad remix at least, and I am not disappointed, but I do think people go overboard and just gridfinity this, gridfinity that.

>>2608152
No shit. I'm always burned by all the shitty prints that use up old empty spools, lamps, storage bins, monitor stands, always garbage and always made better without the empty spool.
Best legitimate use I've found is for winding up cables, and that's it, using them as spools like God intended.

Every once in awhile I go looking, "oh is there something fun I could do with this stack of spools rather than just toss them?"
Only takes a few minutes of searching, the disappointment sets in, and into the recycling they go.

>>2607648
I went with a Bambu X1-C. It legitimately is plug and play with one exception. The print plate it comes with is a glue plate which I did not like at all and had some print failures with. Bought their textured print plate and have not had a single issue since. Stuff easily pops right off after it is done printing.

>>2607878
>I have shit to do
You mean like troubleshooting your prusa?

>>2608155
the vertical spool drawer was decent. I built one, but one thing that troubled me was taking one drawer out you would have to put it back otherwise the drawer below would be exposed and shit would fall out. After I printed them there was a release of a new drawer model with sliding lid. I already printed all of them, tried use it, but I didn't have enough stuff to fill all the drawers so weight was uneven and yeah I just dumped it.

in marlin is there a way to do a simultaneous extrusion from a dual nozzle single carriage? NOT a mixing or 2 in 1 out setup. i know there is m605 but it is apparently meant only for dual carriage setups and in the config comments it says that enabling it (#define DUAL_X_CARRIAGE) will automatically try to assign an x2 driver, which wont work out in my case preventing me from even just trying it.

>>2608322
You sure can.

In configuration_adv.h, ignore the DUAL_X_CARRIAGE shit, go down and find
>// Add a Duplicate option for well-separated conjoined nozzles
>//#define MULTI_NOZZLE_DUPLICATION

If you look at the documentation for M605, you'll see that it's got different behaviors for DUAL_X_CARRIAGE versus MULTI_NOZZLE_DUPLICATION.
With just MULTI_NOZZLE_DUPLICATION, you use M605 S2 R0 and it's on, M605 S0 and it stops, and that's it!
I do not know what all changes when duplication is enabled, don't know the behavior, do be careful because it's very likely it has zero safeties to stop you from doing fucky shit.

>>2608326
o shit, i apparently just scrolled right past it. thanks m8, lets see what kind of trouble i can get myself in

>>2608326
well it doesnt want to work. no matter what argument i pass with m605 it only returns "echo:Duplication mode: OFF ( )". stupid fucking finicky bullshit.

>>2608336
Welp that's gay, don't have a dual nozzle currently or I'd try it myself.

>>2608112
You'll be back, gweilo...

>>2608326
All I want is a quad extruder, single carriage setup with direct drive. Just a simple mechanical quadrupler (with independently adjustable z-offset), so I can mass produce TPU drone parts efficiently enough to put the dirty chinamen that stole my Thingiverse designs out of business.

>>2608363
Boils my piss when people sell stuff people release for free. No wonder every cunt demands money for anything these days

>>2608424
I agree, Prusa should be prosecuted for taking credit for so much in 3D printing despite the fact that they sell a Mendel clone, which is not Prusa's design, and constantly complain that other printers like the Ender 3 are clones of the Prusa, when they're actually based off the later Mendel Max and Wilson 2 printers and share absolutely NO blood with Prusa's actual work.
Prusa's work being to slap the parts of a Mendel onto a laser-cut piece of metal, that's what I credit Prusa with. Though they weren't the first, they were one of the first to try to make an extremely cheap Mendel kit, and for the time it was exactly that, an impressively priced Mendel.
Beardy-bitch takes too much credit for too much shit, the people who've ACTUALLY made all the things that make 3D printing inexpensive, accessible, and legitimately useful: Ranellucci, Bowyer, Braam, and Lahteine, if Prush were an honest and good beard these men would have their names and faces on Prusa products, not Jojo. Of course, they made a whole impassioned blog post about properly crediting people and stolen work in 3D printing, and it was one of the most pretentious loads of bullshit I've ever heard, Joseph lives entirely off of self-image, he's an entitled cunt who LOVES that retards associate him with 3D printing, and he knows full-well he's contributed nothing to the space whatsoever.
If I walk up to a Mk4, fire it up, print a thing, at no point will I see any name other than Jophes Beardface whose name covers every surface possible, despite him having added *nothing* and created *nothing* relating to the experience at all.

He's a piece of a shit, a genuinely shitty person, pretentious, arrogant, condescending, loves the smell of his own beardfarts, frankly I don't know why the people around him put up with his shit.
I don't know anyone who's gotten to actually work with him directly that has anything nice to say, he's an ass, an autistic retard and a gigantic ass.

>>2608536
Huh thats interesting to hear, I'm not being sarcastic it genuinely is

>>2608536
>a whole impassioned blog post about properly crediting people and stolen work in 3D printing
This one?
>the-state-of-open-source-in-3d-printing-in-2023
Because that specifically about the electronics. Annex did not release the design of the Constellation to avoid poor-quality clones, [they also did not write a blog post] so clearly the issue of electronics and the justification (subsidized production of PCBs) is important to other unlikeable autists. not just beard man who must have fucked u're mother.
>your post
>a long list of names and brands
>social butterfly who never laser cut anything but claims that he could if he wanted to
see
>>2607838

I'm going fucking crazy trying to get this .2mm nozzle to work properly.

>ender 3 v2, full metal hot end, metal extruder, pla, tried 200-230 C, tried slow as fuck, tried faster, retraction speed and distance freshly calibrated

whatever i fucking do it jams/clogs/starts skipping at the extruder after or at the end of layer 1

for some fucking reason i cant do cold pulls on this thing either? works great with .4mm nozzles but with .2mm the filament is STUCK after the clogging happens

Any tips?
I just nuked the shit out of the nozzle on my oventop and then threw it in cold water.
Currently put the nozzle on and its fairly cleanly extruding now, "outside" of printing, but i bet my tight asshole it will clog the second i try printing anything

oh and it fucking WORKED beautifully the first time i put it on and printed a model, but all attempts afterwards have been ass

>>2608536
>>2608544
Prusa claims a lot of credit in that post.

>PCB heatbed
In May of 2010, Prusa shares a video on Jewtube:
>Timelapse video of printing naked lady on my ShaperCube RepRap printer. Using my PCB heated bed :-)
MakerBot released their first PCB heated bed in March of 2010.
They openly credited Keith Neufeld and Jordan Miller with their work towards the design, and it was Jordan Miller's design specifically that became the Heated Build Platform 2.0.
Jordan Miller, if you're not familiar, is an old name in RepRap and an absolutely brilliant human being who has contributed tons of valuable innovations to 3D printing, including much of what Prusa sells.
The first examples are from 2009.

>Removable print sheets
Might want to be more specific with that one Jo, my bed surfaces have ALWAYS been removable, since day 1 swapping out a 4x4" piece of glass, it has always been removable.
The only notable old exception I can think of is some folks with solid aluminum beds (ew) and of course the original conveyer-belt printer, the Cupcake with a Makerbot ABP.

>Powder-coated PEI applied directly to metal
Did they mean for build plates? Because people have been powder-coating PEI onto metal for a long time, anyone who's been in the US military in the last 40 years has had their hands on PEI powder-coated metal. I'll assume he meant for build plates, because I've never been able to find out definitively who first tried a PEI powder-coated steel sheet for a build surface. Maybe it was Prusa, genuinely don't know.

>automatic mesh bed leveling using an inductive probe
Yeah, no, if it was already done in another industry, you didn't invent it. Using off-the-shelf parts for their intended purpose is not innovation.

>Sensorless homing
A fucking feature advertised by the motor driver manufacturer, taking credit for this is retarded, you'd have to be an exceptionally gullible retard to credit Prusa with this.

Jo was a dick 14 years ago and he's still a dick now.

>>2608552
Oh the heatbed.
Joseph used to credit Keith for that one, but I guess he can't even bother at this point.
What Jo did was design and create the first commercially produced and available PCB heatbed, the "RepRap PCB Heatbed MK1."
That was Jo's, he drew the design for that one.
>I would never consider patenting any of these contributions
You couldn't if you wanted to Jo, you shithead, because they're not your contributions.

>>2608552
>a pcb that generates heat
remarkable
>Jordan Miller, if you're not familiar,
I know who she is; I went to one of their shows.
>Removable print sheets
I don't use one.
>Solid aluminum beds
The top part of it is not aluminum, it's some kind of plastic (obviously). This way it's one layer of adhesive on top of a surface plate. The magnets are bullshit and fuck everything up, and I didn't want to use binder clips.
>Using off-the-shelf parts for their intended purpose is not innovation.
This is bs. You could definitely get a patent for that. "A method to get even prints using an inductive sensor." The datasheet for the probe doesn't say anything about printing.
>this is retarded, you'd have to be an exceptionally gullible retard
pic related
>>2608552
>taking credit for this
Who cares who takes credit for what? The entire blogpost was summarized as this:
>we not release electronics
>plz no bully

>>2608536
Really makes you think, good post.
I wouldn't care about all this crediting wank, but the fact that beard man is so autistic about it when "his" work being copied is just bad faith.
Its like some twitter guy being vocal about pedos, then turning out a kid didler a few years later. Dont know what this hideous human behavior is called, but I bet it has a name.

Tried installing cr touch to sv01, what a shit show. First problem is they used hot glue to secure cable connections on board. I had to remove some.

And then the guide that came with cr touch was wrong. Pic related is the updated version on their website, which took a while for me to check. The one on my guide has colors wrong and the wire order is different (some wires are swapped)

It seems to be working though.

>>2608545
It sounds like you got a clog, or multiple, maybe repeatedly.
With a 0.2mm nozzle, it's painfully easy to clog the bitch, even with clean filament and a wiper on it.
Just like people pushing flow rates higher for higher speeds will raise temps, you gotta lower your hotend temps, not by much but expect to be at the low end of the filament maker's recommendation.
Your flow rate is going to be severely limited by the small orifice and plastic is spending much more time rammed up in the hot nozzle with pressure behind it, problems with "cooking" filament in the hotend are amplified and heat creep is more of an issue.

The limited speed and flow rate can actually be more of an issue depending on your extruder.
Look at a first layer:
0.2mm layer, 0.4mm nozzle, 15mm/s, that's 1.2mm^3/s, your extruder pushing 0.5mm of filament per second.
0.08mm layer, 0.2mm nozzle, 15mm/s, that's only 0.24mm^3/s, your extruder has to push 0.1mm/s.
With a stock Ender 3, you get 93 steps/mm for the extruder, so with that 0.2mm nozzle, you're getting ~1.6mm of line for every whole step of the extruder stepper. That's horrifically bad.
With a BMG extruder, 420 steps/mm, with that 0.2mm nozzle you're getting ~0.36mm of line for every whole step of the extruder stepper.

So basically, cool it off, slow it down, and if you're using the stock extruder you're gonna have a bad time, a geared extruder is basically a requirement for going tiny-nozzle.

Left is "startup code" in prusa slicer and right is an example gcode output. I want to preheat bed before auto homing & leveling (so it is more consistent I guess?) and I also want to start heating extruder to a safe temp (150C) while it is auto homing & leveling. Does it make sense or will it create mustard gas

So here it starts heating extruder to 150C and then starts heating bed and waits for it to reach final temp. Then initiates auto home & leveling via G28 & G29. And after that it starts heating extruder to final temp and waits it. And then it starts printing.

>>2608645
uh it should have been M104 S150 I guess. I missed a S

>>2608645
>>2608647
I fucked up the code twice

>>2608651
Looks fine.
Try it to verify, slice something then look at the gcode to make sure you get what you expect.

That 150 is arbitrary, if you want to get fancy you could do something like:
>M104 S{max(100,int(first_layer_temperature[0] * 0.65))}

That'll get you 65% of the first layer temp in PrusaSlicer, but never less than 100C.
Also works in SuperSlicer.

OrcaSlicer (BambuStudio too probably), almost the same:
>M104 S{max(100,int(nozzle_temperature_initial_layer[0] * 0.65))}

after almost two years of tinkering with 3d printers i may be getting an internship at some cad/cam company (for dentistry of all things) All this time i never looked at the actual modelling and just focused on tuning the slicer/printer to print already made stuff so i guess this is the best time to actually look into modelling too, any tips? Especially stuff i could use to make it look like i know what i'm talking about already during the internship?

>>2608671
Thanks, didn't know you could do math like that. Why is it first_layer_temperature[0] but not first_layer_temperature?

Creality sure got their money's worth out of the first K1 shill: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6FzC-ApMx0

Not one bad thing to say in 22 minutes aside from tape residue, and the cable chain rubbing which he excitedly says he'll print a part to fix.
>Maybe on the production printers they'll improve that a little bit
Breaks down piece by piece why everything about it is so good.
Says it'll be better and faster than most Vorons.
Specifically seeks out things to compare to the Bambu printers, things that he says are better on the K1.
Says it's more robust and will last longer than a Bambu printer.

What a cuck.

>>2608687
Well there are different ways to use some of these placeholders, and part of that comes from them including legacy placeholders alongside their current "updated" counterparts.

With the legacy syntax, you use the placeholder name in some [brackets]: M104 S[first_layer_temperature]
With the updated syntax you start with {curly braces}: M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}
Now either of those will work, but if you want to use the fun stuff, you need to use the updated syntax with the {curly braces}.

The reason for the [0] in this case is because first_layer_temperature is a vector, it's used to get the temperature of -any- hotend, that [0] is the index of the first hotend.
If you only have one hotend, that's all you need, first_layer_temperature[0], but if you had two hotends you could also use first_layer_temperature[1] to refer to the temp of your second hotend, and so on for additional hotends.

You can find more info from Prusa:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/macros_1775
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/list-of-placeholders_205643

They really kind of downplay some of the fun shit you can do.
SuperSlicer has more places you can shove custom gcode and more placeholders than PrusaSlicer.
OrcaSlicer and BambuStudio can also do a lot of the same tricks, though between all of these there are some differences in syntax, placeholder names, etc.

In any of these slicers, hover your mouse over a setting to get the tooltip popup, and if that setting corresponds to a placeholder variable that can be used in customer gcode, you'll see something that says "parameter name:"

>>2608691
I see, thanks anon. I will read those later when I need custom stuff in gcode

I noticed at the end of G29 my printer touches the build plate, and unfortunately it does that right in the middle and it leaves some residue if the extruder is heated.

Or maybe the combination of G28 & G29 does that. G28 auto homes, which moves it to center & Z = 0 at the end (or at least what it thinks Z=0 before leveling) and then perhaps G29 auto levels returns it back to where it was after G28 (middle & Z=0)? If that is the case something like this would work

>preheat plate (not extruder)
>G28
>move extruder to a safe pos with Z > 0
>start heating extruder to ~150
>G29 (and hopefully it returns back to safe pos. not middle so it doesn't touch middle)
>heat extruder to final temp

I will try this tomorrow and ditch the idea of preheating extruder to save time if it doesn't work. It doesn't really save any time anyway, extruder heats quite fast

>>2608691
Just for fun, here's some quick and dirty stuff I use for calibrating a fresh Marlin install using OrcaSlicer.
Any of these can be adapted to PrusaSlicer or SuperSlicer easily. They look like shit but they're not hard to understand if you just do the math.

Easy linear advance tuning with a tower that has 5mm steps, just toss these in the layer change gcode:
{if layer_z == initial_layer_print_height + layer_height}M900 K0{endif}
{if layer_z/5 == round(layer_z)/5}M900 K{(layer_z/5*0.02)}{endif}
When it starts the second layer of the print, it'll set the kfactor to 0, then increase it by 0.02 every 5mm after that. Might drop that to 0.01 or 0.005 with a direct extruder and a tall tower model to use.
By nature of my being a lazy prick, this won't work right if layers don't add up to whole multiples of 5, so 0.2mm is fine, but 0.16 will not work, just look at the math it isn't complicated if you want to fuck with it.
Do a vase mode print and push your speed up, you'll get results clear as day.
Heaps better than doing the flat test on the bed, much more tangible results.

{if layer_z == initial_layer_print_height + layer_height}M204 P1500{endif}
{if layer_z/5 == round(layer_z)/5}M204 P{round(layer_z/5)*150 + 1500}{endif}
Awesome for acceleration tuning, adjust shit as needed, this is a good starting point for a typical Ender 3 or similar.
Same deal as the Kfactor gcode, layer heights have to add up to multiples of 5. Every 5mm, you get the segment count * 150 + 1500, so with a 100mm tower you get up to 4350mm/s. (Actually it'll set 4500mm/s, but only once it hits 100mm, the very top-most layer of the print.)

You can do much more dynamic stuff too. Part of my start gcode on one of my printers uses a purge bucket and prints a leveling swatch in the corner of the bed.
You've got access to layer heights, line widths, speeds, makes it pretty straightforward. Here's a useful one:
G1 E-{retraction_length[0]} F{retraction_speed[0]*60}; Retraction with slicer settings

>>2608700
Different ways to go about it, but if you're just tossing out a G29 I'm assuming you're using normal mesh leveling and not UBL?
You can always save your mesh instead, and use M420 S1 in your startup gcode. That's a HELL of a time saver right there.
And yes you can just get the nozzle out of there as you please, here's a snippet from one of my Ender's startup gcode with OrcaSlicer:
M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer]
M104 S{max(120,int(nozzle_temperature_initial_layer[0] * 0.75))}
G28 ; home all axis
G0 Z20 F240
G0 X250 Y20 F3000
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer]
G29 A
G29 L0
G29 J2
G29 F10
M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer]

That printer has UBL, so my G29 calls are different than what I think you're using, but aside from that you get the idea.
It moves to that spot (250,20,20) before starting the warm up, does the tilt/leveling once the bed is hot, then it will return to that same spot before heating up the nozzle the rest of the way.

>>2608688
>will last longer than a Bambu printer
based on the average lifetime of a bambu I suppose.

Having fun with new PrusaSlicer alpha.
{
local flh = first_layer_height;
local flw = first_layer_extrusion_width;
local rect = (0.1*print_bed_size[0],0.1*print_bed_size[1]);
local wvol = flh * flw * rect[0];
local hvol = flh * flw * rect[1];
local fcross = 3.14159 * (filament_diameter[0]/2)*(filament_diameter[0]/2);
local wlen = wvol / fcross;
local hlen = hvol / fcross;

"G0 Z" + (flh+1) + "
";
"G0 X" + (print_bed_size[0] - (rect[0] / 2)) + " Y" + (print_bed_size[1] - (rect[1]/2)) + " Z" + first_layer_height + " F" + (travel_speed*60) +"
";
"G1 X" + (print_bed_size[0] + (rect[0] / 2)) + " Y" + (print_bed_size[1] - (rect[1]/2)) + " Z" + first_layer_height + " E" + wlen + " F" + (first_layer_speed*60) + "
";
"G1 X" + (print_bed_size[0] + (rect[0] / 2)) + " Y" + (print_bed_size[1] + (rect[1]/2)) + " Z" + first_layer_height + " E" + hlen +"
";
"G1 X" + (print_bed_size[0] + (rect[0] / 2)) + " Y" + (print_bed_size[1] + (rect[1]/2)) + " Z" + first_layer_height + " E" + wlen +"
";
"G1 X" + (print_bed_size[0] - (rect[0] / 2)) + " Y" + (print_bed_size[1] - (rect[1]/2)) + " Z" + first_layer_height + " E" + hlen +"
";
"G1 E-" + retract_length[0] + " F" + (retract_speed[0]*60) + "
";
"G0 X0 F" + (travel_speed*60) +"
";
e_retracted[0] = retract_length[0]
}

I'll actually be able to write single unified startup scripts that apply to all of my printers, if I switch entirely to PrusaSlicer which sure as shit ain't happening.
Neat though.

>>2608608
>guide that came with cr touch was wrong
Guide no rong! You rong! Delet rong post now.

Why did you buy the fake if a BL-Touch can be had for less than $20?

>>2607613
>detect and modify gcode intended for MK3 printers on the fly

I'm gonna be printing about 100 of these Milwaukee packout hangers to hang toolboxes and cases for my garage walls.

Tests were printed in PLA but I want a material that will take Spain's +40°c temps, not exposed to UV and that won't crack as soon as I tug on the boxes.

What material would you guys recommend?
My printer is enclosed and I have a brass nozzle, all metal hotend.

>>2608915
4 got pic

>>2608916
>doesnt melt in the sun
>not exposed to UV
>wont crack
ABS or one of the stiffer Nylon blends. ASA is overkill

>>2608898
Why even buy it when for around 5 bucks USD a piece, you can get an inductive probe that has .005 accuracy, while bltouch has .025 accuracy, and prone to those stupid probe pin breaking ffs they sell a 5 pack, assuming the person isn't using a glass bed.

>amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Taiss-LJ8A3-2-Z-Inductive-Proximity-Detection/dp/B073XDFV6M

aliexpress with shipping is roughly 5 usd
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804717462142.html

Even if the person is using a glass bed, I would use *-touch that has a optical sensor, whether its cr-touch, or bfptouch (poor man's bl-touch but in reality its setup is the same as a cr-touch.

>>2608915
PETG. strong, UV resist, I use it on all my automotive parts (had more than one prototype GPS mount melt in the windshield sun-oven)

>>2608898
Bought it from their official sovol website I am afraid
>>2608921
I have a glass bed, but to be honest I didn't investigate much. The item I bought was from their official website and comes with a firmware and all parts required to attach it to my printer, so it is a lot easier for a newbie like me, even if it was a bit more expensive

I bought a cr touch, not bl touch. Isn't it basically just a sensitive button? Why are you saying it has an optical sensor (or are there different kinds of cr touch?)

>>2608923
>PETG. strong, UV resist, I use it on all my automotive parts (had more than one prototype GPS mount melt in the windshield sun-oven)

use ASA it gets so annoying when people use petg in applications where it gets hot, ABS/ASA is better suited when it comes to heat.

ASA can withstand heat better like ABS, but actually has UV resistance as well.

>>2608925
>I bought a cr touch, not bl touch. Isn't it basically just a sensitive button? Why are you saying it has an optical sensor (or are there different kinds of cr touch?)
Apologizes, I used the wrong term, I meant "photoelectric" I believe is the correct term.

>>2608921
>Why even buy it when for around 5 bucks USD a piece, you can get an inductive probe that has .005 accuracy
Because then you have to adjust Z every time you change from PEI sheet to glass to something else. What is the point? If you always use the same surface you don't need an ABL sensor, you can do the mesh once manually and save it in the firmware and that is it.
>Even if the person is using a glass bed, I would use *-touch that has a optical sensor, whether its cr-touch, or bfptouch (poor man's bl-touch but in reality its setup is the same as a cr-touch
It's astounding how one can talk such nonsense with such confidence.

>>2608925
>I have a glass bed, but to be honest I didn't investigate much.
Then i don't see a need for a sensor at all, set up your Z manually once and call it a day. Recalibrate Z when you take something apart or move the printer around.
>The item I bought was from their official website and comes with a firmware and all parts required to attach it to my printer, so it is a lot easier for a newbie like me, even if it was a bit more expensive
Except that the instructions are wrong. So now you paid more, got wrong instructions and have the worst sensor of them all. You got chinked my man, they chinked you good.
>I bought a cr touch, not bl touch. Isn't it basically just a sensitive button? Why are you saying it has an optical sensor (or are there different kinds of cr touch?)
There is nothing optical in it, that guy is a clown. BL-Touch and it's clones are fairly complex as far as bed sensors go, it's a microcontroller, a solenoid switch, and a pushpin probe. To trigger, it uses a hall effect sensor.

>I meant "photoelectric" I believe is the correct term
How does that describe a hall sensor, smooth brain?

>>2608934
>set up your Z manually once
It's been a while since I bought a new printer, but what was ever wrong with "slide paper under it and stop when it drags," at each corner or whatever. Why are these sensors even necessary?

>>2608943
As i said, if you change your build surface between glass, PEI and so on, it makes sense. Not needed if you use the same surface.

The real reason is that Zoomers simply don't have the time.

>>2608957
>simply don't have the time
you think they're flying to important business meetings every day? no, they're impatient children who can't stop doomschrolling for the 5 minutes it takes to do it manually

>>2608934
>Because then you have to adjust Z every time you change from PEI sheet to glass to something else. What is the point? If you always use the same surface you don't need an ABL sensor, you can do the mesh once manually and save it in the firmware and that is it.

Who the fuck switches from PEI to glass bed? Its either glass bed or PEI/PEX sheets. Use a glass bed stick to the glass bed.

>It's astounding how one can talk such nonsense with such confidence.

Let me simplify it so you can hide behind "someone else is dumb not me" bullshit

pei/pex -> inductive probe
glass bed -> *-touch

By the way I clarified I used the wrong term and meant photoelectric here. >>2608928

>>2608943
I hate the subjectivity of "level until just until paper has slight friction"

>>2608960
No, i think between TikTok and the latest mobile phone game, there just isn't time to do anything that requires more than 5 minutes of attention in one go.

>>2608968
>Use a glass bed stick to the glass bed.
Totes, like, yeah, like, totally.

>pei/pex -> inductive probe
>glass bed -> *-touch
You just assured me with utmost confidence that inductive probes are better than touch probes.

>By the way I clarified I used the wrong term and meant photoelectric
Which is still wrong.
How can you still not know what a hall sensor is and how BL-Touch works?

>people still doing the paper shit
>actually thinking that a probe is a waste of money
>telling people its fine to do it once ever
No wonder this thread consistently has shit quality prints posted. Probably doesn't even flow calibrate or pressure advance.

>>2608989
In old times we didn't even have bed leveling knobs. We were hitting corners of our printer beds with a rock until it is level. Of course tiktok kids these day don't have attention span and skill to level their printers with a rock

>>2608920
ASA is just like ABS, but better in every way, and easier to print.
It's never overkill, it's always the right decision.

>>2608989
Don't know what's wrong with these kids.

Euclid probe: <$10, better accuracy and repeatability than a CR-Touch, BL-Touch, or Inductive Probe.
Same deal with the numerous other microswitch based probes that cost pennies to slap together.
FFS it's the "free" solution if you have TMC2209/TMC2226 drivers, you turn on sensorless homing and rob one of the old endstop switches to turn into a klackender or klicky or quickdraw or euclid or ....
Better than a BL-Touch, $0
Niggas are just retarded I guess.

>>2608925
>>2608928
>>2608977
Is someone confused about how the BL-Touch and CR-Touch work?
They're ghetto-rigged optomechanical switches.
It's a very simple solenoid with a photo interrupter similar to an optical endstop.
The solenoid is able to move the probe up and down. When in the down position, it's deflected by whatever you're probing until it trips the photo-interrupter.
CR-Touch works exactly the same, it is a clone after all, but uses a metal probe. There are advantages and disadvantages to that, no point in debating that the metal probe is better or worse.

They're neat, but they're overpriced DIY solutions to problems that have already been solved.
Like Prusa with the inductive probe, some asshole just had to Google, "How CNC measure flat?" to come up with the idea of mesh bed leveling with an inductive probe, BECAUSE IT'S SOMETHING WE ALREADY DID IN OTHER INDUSTRIES.
Obviously to different ends, but still. The BL-Touch is just another example of people solving a problem that's already been solved.

The BL-Touch has no excuse to be popular, it's too expensive and just not as good as shit we already had before it came out, I really don't know why it took off so hard.
UBL was already a thing before the BL-Touch was released, and people still run the ancient bilinear ABL and an overpriced BL-Touch, CR-Touch, or clone.

>>2608977
>Which is still wrong.
>How can you still not know what a hall sensor is and how BL-Touch works?

I was never talking about bltouch using a photoelectric in the first place, show me where I did.

>>2608921
>>2608928
>>2608968

>You just assured me with utmost confidence that inductive probes are better than touch probes.

Pic related shows in my original comment I recommended using a touch probe on glass beds, which obviously implies that inductive probe doesn't work on glass beds, and is not needed.

>Which is still wrong.
How can you still not know what a hall sensor is and how BL-Touch works?

I complained the the BFPTouch https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890290 is being referred to as a poormans bltouch, which is wrong, bfptouch uses photoelectric (yes it does, and that is the correct term) sensor which means I am implying that bltouch doesn't uses a photoelectric sensor, the CRtouch does, and like I said for millionth time, I am clearly showing a crtouch using that sensor in this comment >>2608928

and you keep purposely ignoring that to avoid admitting to being wrong. I am right, you are wrong, I know it. You not acknowledging it won't change that fact.

I like my stress sensor thing in my CR6 SE and my P1P
Hearing the printer tap the bed is always fun

>>2608998
*CLONES*
The *CLONES* are optomechanical switches.
The OG is a hall-effect sensor.
Doesn't matter, they're all trash.
BL-Touch, CR-Touch, 3D Touch, XiTouch, it's all overpriced trash anyway.
"Oh but it's only $10 for a clone" and it's worse than a $5 inductive probe or 2 penny microswitch, go fuck yourself.

>>2609004 BLtouch style probe is superior for the average Joe.
Easy install and works on every surface.
Inductive probes are harder to install (not plug and play, 24 and 3.3v mix) and they doesnt work on glass and some pei sheets.
Kicky style probes are nor even mass produced. They are extremely hard to install and calibrate. Also they work only on klipper.
>The *CLONES* are optomechanical switches. The OG is a hall-effect sensor.
3d printers do not need micrometer level precision. Those sensors are meant to fix cheap warp beds and make it easier for average joe to get an okayish first layer. +-0.01mm is more than enough.

>>2609012
>They are extremely hard to install and calibrate. Also they work only on klipper.
None of that is true.
They're cheap, incredibly easy to make, easy to install, and easy to set up, just as easy as a BL Touch.

You wouldn't know, because you've not had one, and don't know what you're talking about.
For fuck's sake there's NATIVE support for magnetically mounted probes like Clicky, Klackender, and Euclid already built in to Marlin, it was added almost a year ago at this point.
Prior to that, we just used GCODE macros and/or the Allen-key probe functionality.
It's all worked in Marlin since before the first release of Klipper 9 years ago you fucking retard.

>>2609012
>Scared of a 20 minute print
Yeah those probes you can't even buy that only require a couple magnets and a spare endstop switch are SO complicated.
It takes SO long to print, and then you have to assemble it yourself, like with your fingers and stuff it's just AWFUL.
Then you have to install it on the printer, which is WAY harder than a BL-Touch, because you have to attach it with screws, whereas with a BL-Touch you attach it with screws.
Then you have to CALIBRATE IT! Oh actually you don't, but we'll skip that.
You have to set it up in firmware! Very hard. With a BL Touch on Marlin, you uncomment //#define BLTOUCH and fill out #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 10, 10, 0 } with info from the mount for your BL Touch.
With an Euclid, Klackender, etc, you have to uncomment //#define MAG_MOUNTED_PROBE, and fill out #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 10, 10, 0 }, AND you have to copy and paste the deploy-stow shit for the mount for your probe. SOOOOOOOOO CHALLENGING!

If hitting Ctrl+V one more time is too much for you, I guess a BL-Touch is a good choice, perfect for women, children, and men without penises.

>>2606718
>Voxelab Aquila X2,
Is it good enough? I wanted to gift it to a friend to replace his ancient FDM which broke (ancient as in the frame is made of lasercut wood sheets)
The other sub-200€ printers in the list can't be obtained in my country

>>2609037
For the price, it's perfectly fine.
It's just another Ender-like Chinese printer, very generic.
Similar to an Ender3V2. Comes with belt tensioners, always nice, has a color screen AND a rotary encoder (pure touchscreen with no knob == garbage), a filament runout sensor, and a 32-bit board with TMC2208 drivers.
There's nothing special about it, but it's absolutely fine, and anyone who's experienced enough with printing and/or tinkering to have owned an old MDF/Plywood printer should be thrilled with it, especially for the price.

My only major gripe is the N32/H32 mainboards they come with aren't "actually" supported by Marlin OR Klipper.
They run Marlin by default of course, but compiling the latest Marlin for it isn't a straightforward process yet sadly.
People have their ways of getting it done, Marlin or Klipper, and it's easy to find guides to get you through it, but it's always a shame to have to take that route.

>>2609035
Kek, unironically typing all this. Yes, it is a lot more complicated compared to buying X-touch that comes with parts that already fits your printer and a precompiled firmware that you can install with a couple clicks

>>2609040
>precompiled firmware
Okay we'll stop there, enjoy your iPhone.

>>2609040
Ackshewally you can just buy an Euclid probe, and mount, but I've never seen precompiled firmware for using it because who in the fuck would do that?
Of course there are premade configs available so you can be that lazy if you want.

Keep blowing hot air out of your ass.

>>2608960
>>2608957
>>2608971
>falling for the leveling meme
>not just setting first layer height to 5mm, initial layer flow rate 3000% and sending it
ngmi
>>2608957
>Not needed if you use the same surface.
>The real reason is that Zoomers simply don't have the time.
depends on the size of the printer moran
also how the fuck does this logic even make any sense? can't you just have a side labeled "FRONT" and "BACK" and write down your offsets on a piece of paper or some bullshit? Your inability to remember three offset numbers is the least significant issue requiring a sensor.

You guys think a 3d printer is worth having if you don't have a hobby that utilizes 3d printing?
Like do you find enough random/usefull stuff to print to not have buyer's remorse?

>>2609066
yes its fine. My 3d printer sits for months without use sometimes. I dont see the point in printing dust collecting junk

>>2609066
If you don't know anyone with one, its pretty nice to have one in case theres something that needs a part fixed on. New mount for garage door opener laser thing after it broke, spacer in door frame so that the door closes properly, new gate latch, child proofing things (not that you'd need them you nerd)
Also you may be smart and not want random plastic junk but many many normies around you likely would want something printed if they know you have one. Charge $5-$10 a print of some Stitch figure or an amogus and you're making money

>>2609066 Building and messing around with 3d printer is also a hobby.

>>2609064
>>2608957
this post triggered me so much I went and thought about it.
the real boomer way to calibrate your printer is to mount your daddy's ancient starrett test indicator to the toolhead, preheat the enclosure, mark the measurements with a paper and pencil, transfer the measurements onto isometric grid paper and interpolate with a ruler (or drafting curves) and then put the information into an envelope and mail it to your friend Scott, who lives in silicone valley and owns a Macintosh personal computer. Also, your printer has to be connected to the phone line, which is how you get the gcode.
I thought about it at length and this is a reasonable amount of effort that a boomer would expend. Also, unlike the other suggestions, it's more accurate than a klicky so you can maintain the theoretical moral high ground whilst you complain about zoomers.
>>2608998
>BECAUSE IT'S SOMETHING WE ALREADY DID IN OTHER INDUSTRIES
>solving a problem that's already been solved
alright you ignoramus, I"ll bite: in which industry did u use an inductive probe to create a 2d calibration matrix?
b/c I am 100% sure u have no idea what u're even talking about.
p.s. u have exactly 81 hours to plz respond or else I will unveil Kurald Galain as I have already began the summoning ritual. have a nice day.
>>2607508
>what's wrong with your mouse
the g pro wireless? it's nearly perfect, except the scroll button click is fucked. The wheel sticks out so far that sideways pressure pulls it off the microswitch. Not a problem for league of Lol but it's unusuable in CAD software obviously since the middle clicks are worth more than most newlyweds firstborns. Gaymer optimization sucks but at least it resulted in good everything else.
>ok but why u don't use computer mouse to jog CNC macheen??/
same reason you don't use a mouse to play street fighter you fucking ignoramus

>>2609076
>g pro wireless
pic related; it's the perfect peripheral for shitposting. League of lol of legends edition is usually on sale, I highly recommend it for shitposting. Like I said though, it's almost unusable for CAD. I thought about printing a smaller scroll wheel or a guard to keep my finger away from the side of the scroll wheel, but I can't be bothered.
>obviously viral marketing
call the cops idgaf
sage
hided my own posts
reported myself

>>2609082
pic related
>just dont push the scroll wheel sideways then moran
it's literally required to pan the view in CAD
>change keybind--
no.

>>2609076
>you don't use a mouse to play street fighter
noob

>>2609038
>They run Marlin by default of course, but compiling the latest Marlin for it isn't a straightforward process yet sadly.
What do you mean?
>fork repo
>mess around
>compile using platformIO
Sounds like the exact same thing I did for my skr 1.2 back in the days. Is there a more straightforward way now?
However thanks for the input. I might pull the trigger on it.

>>2609101
Because now when you want to build Marlin, you just download the latest Marlin and configure appropriately.
No finding old repos, no copying and pasting from outdated config files to make the new shit work, no making custom board definitions, it's just so fucking easy for *most* boards. But the N32/H32 Voxelab boards aren't officially supported, so instead you're off to github and google to find outdated repos from hobbyists so you can piece together what you need.

anybody know where to source 5mm to 8mm shaft couplers with a 17mm outside diameter. I had to turn down the 19mm ones, what a PIA.

>>2609318
If you can go smaller, McMaster carries a 16mm diameter option, 8011N233

>>2609330
>8011N233
$145.72, suddenly I'm fine with cutting 19mm down to 17mm

>>2609318
No, those helical couplers are stupid. post pic of the installation. Why can't you redesign the part that's causing the clearance issue? Then you can use a standard spider coupler like a real human bean.

>>2609349
I agree they are stupid, I had a few accidents and turned the stock coupler into a spring, it's a clearance issue, a 17mm dia coupler just fits.

>>2609345
Oh fuck me I hadn't seen that.
>$145.72/ea
Start cutting down those 19mm ones and selling them for $99.95.

>>2609353
>turned the stock coupler into a spring
first of all that has to be supported on the top; it's not correct to be used like that because it doesn't constrain correctly on that axis. Technically your not supposed to rest the weight on the motor shaft either.
having said that, I used those crappy couplings to suspend boyh Y axes on my first CNC machine (wooden hot wire) which had Nema 23s running on 48v. You could see it stretching and compressing with every rapid move. I never borked it but I let some dumbass use my machine and when I got back it was a slinky.
>fugg D::::
if it's not supported on top, then toss the printer into the trash entire. Then take it out of trash and build a switchwire.
Seriously, the correct option is to elongate the stepper cutout by 3mm (make it a slot) and then extend the bracket with the brass nut also by 3mm. What a piece of shit. it IS constrained on the top of the leadscrew, right anon?>>
>pic
here's a thing I made out of TPU, a bit undersized and only uses 2g so I'm reprinting it. There's probably some risks associated with using TPU for cable glands and stuff (not flame retardant etc.) but in this case it's gonna cause better results than the alternative.

>>2609376
>2023
>not knowing mcmaster catalogue from memory
Knowing retailers' pricing for various hardware is the morlock equivalent of hoes pricing shoes at the mall. Mcmaster can have competitive prices for certain things, but the linear hardware is not that. I suspect it's sourced from US manufacturers or at least very selective (I saw the receipt for a $150 leadscrew and it was made in the US ov). Obviously for our applications you most likely want to find a random chinese factory targeting the minimum price point.
>>2609376
>Start cutting down those 19mm ones and selling them for $99.95.
if anon cuts down some POS coupler, is it gonna be worth $99 in the end? I have a bunch, and they don't even drill the grubs going through the center of the axis. You'd just be wasting your own time; much better to start with the round stock and print the flexible bits in the spider coupling somehow.

>>2609349
I installed one of those but with a spring and all my tpu prints failed after.

>design and print adapter for hepa filter to clip onto 12v fan
>takes whole day to print
>doesn't fit on fan
>circle approximation measures internal diameter from corners of 24-sided shape instead of from edges
>142.5mm filter needs to fit into 140.5mm hole
>only two walls thick so probably can't carve/sand the adapter to be wider
fug

33mm^3? WHERE? W H E R E?
FUCK OFF PS NOWHERE IS PRINTING THAT FAST. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

God, I wish you could filter the view by segment flowrate. I just want accurate color scales but some tiny fucking 0.001mm long blotch somewhere with an arachne-caused extrusion width of 200 billion meters is ruining it.

>>2609418
Archwelder, nigga

>>2606718
>Up to 200 USD: Kingroon KP3S, Sovol SV01, Voxelab Aquila X2, Anycubic Kobra Neo, ELEGOO Neptune 2S, Malyan M300/Monoprice Mini Delta

Which one of those should I get?

>>2609448
Add another 100$ and get upgraded versions with better firmwares, UIs and auto bed leveling

>>2609448
>>2609470
This. Though auto bed leveling is a meme and bed leveling only really needs to be done once every few months at most.

Is ceramic grease good for maintenance, mostly Z screw?

>>2609486
Should work fine, whether you have a brass or POM leadscrew.

>>2609470
The Kobra Neo has automatic bed leveling.
They ALL run Marlin from the bottom to the top, there are VERY few printers that come with anything else, so your "better firmwares" comment is bullshit.

$100 to get a bed leveling sensor and install the latest Marlin, what the fuck is wrong with your brain?

maybe someone can help me?
i was trying to do a insert, so i could print two objects, and then snap it together.
so i did what i normally do, which is increase size a little bit, so the object can fit inside.

but with the object that has a U shape, pic related,
it no longer fits inside, what can i do?

>>2609470
>>2609483
Would the kp3s pro s1 be in that category its the only printer I really know something about

>>2609645
Lots of ways you could handle this.
Within TinkerCAD, I don't know, not aware of a way.
In Fusion or other CAD packages, very easy.

Given where you're at with it, I'd make the cut with no adjustment so they're identical in size, export the STLs, then take the piece you want to modify/tolerance and print it with x/y size compensation or hole compensation.
Picrel is the setting in PrusaSlicer, there is an equivalent in any slicer worth using, some even have separate controls for expanding holes as opposed to enlarging/shrinking external perimeters.

I'd print the U with some amount of negative x/y compensation, you can adjust as necessary to get a nice fit.

>>2609648
This is such a nice little demonstration screenshot I can't not share it.

>>2609648
>>2609660
thanks, i will try it out

Nylon takes chunks out the engineering plate even with glue

>>2609772
Was it official Bambu glue stick?
Didn't use the official Bambu liquid glue did you?

Bad luck mate, that shit sucks. At $16 I'd say at least it's not a bad price, but if it fucks off during what should be normal use then it ain't worth shit.
The aftermarket plates from Energetic are well liked, but not the nicest price at about $40 shipped for the Textured/Smooth double-sided version: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804514235936.html

>>2609820
Actually used Elmer's stick the first few times, trying the bambu stick this time and letting it cool slowly and completely.
The elemer's sticks way better in my experience than the bambu one and is what I use for PLA and ABS. Perhaps it sticks too well for nylon on the engineering plate

whats the best tool to cut through 3d printed PLA

>>2609846
boxcutter.

(picrel is the best brand/type of boxcutter. anyone who disagrees can fight me using their ""better"" boxcutter)

>>2609848
>picrel

>>2609846
wait really? even if it's a little thick? I felt like I'd need a small saw or something.

>>2609860
if it's thicker than a razor blade then yeah, you can use a hacksaw or a wire/cable saw, but PLA is so soft compared to those tools' regular use cases, it's like fishing with dynamite.

>>2609875
so just heat up the blade enough and then cut through it like butter?

>>2609875
>hacksaw
jigsaw*

>>2609877
Don't heat anything, and cut through it like cheese.

Not shitty cheese. Aged cheese, like a parmesan reggiano or vintage gouda.

>>2608144
>>2608150
Gonna have some meme-wall for breakfast.

printing my first big(1744 0.05mm layers) thing on my halot one and i'm literally sweating from anxiety with face glued to the cover like a child to a fishtank.

>>2609955
At least it won't take long.
That's one of the nice ones with resin printing for sure, the speed with monochrome LCD printers is just awesome.

Depending on your resin, I'm betting that's only a 1 - 2 hour print.

>>2609956
>1 - 2 hour print.
Halot one is, for some reason, fucking slow and that print will take 8 hours.

>>2609418
kek, I just did a similar thing, 608 bearings are 22 mm wide, I accidentally made the holes for them 21 mm, only figured this out after I finished the second print, wasted time and plastic sucks

>>2609418
>24-sided shape
there's your problem. use an actual cad problem that can make circles and output high resolution stls

>>2609958
You have tuning to do.
A Halot-One can manage < 10s total per layer at 0.05mm reliably, < 5s with fast resins, small prints, or thinner layers.
I'd have called 4 hours slow, 8 hours is horrifying.

>>2609448
>Kingroon KP3S
I have the KP3S S1 Pro, paid 205€ with the extra PEI sheet.
It's my most used printer now, i have sold a Prusa Mini+ and a decked out Ender3.
Keeping my large Tronxy X5SA Pro for now, but it's rarely used.

>>2609962
I know, I shoulda used OpenSCAD but I was lazy. As someone who is currently using Sketchup, Plasticity looks really damn nice, model history and parametric features be damned. But I'll try me some FreeCAD forks before shelling out 100 americanos. And maybe that project that does OpenSCAD style parametric programming atop the core of FreeCAD, that sounds fun.

Cracked two mirrors in a week printing abs at 110C bed, 60C chamber and PVP spray 3d glue. (similar to uniqueprint supergoop but self sourced with 4$ worth of alcohol and medical povidone)
ABS adhesion is great but probably too much. Or it might the size issue. Im printing large stuff on 330x330 bed. Has no issues on 235x235 bed earlier.
I still have one mirror left so would try to reapply this stuff more and after every print and not to use forced air cooling after the print.
Any alternatives? PEI, gluestick, hairspray - all trash, got lifting corners.

>>2609972
brim

Brim is pita to remove. I use tabs on a corners, mostly on the edges of the bed where temp is low.

>>2609970
Sounds like you're beating around the real-software bush.
Have you tried Fusion 360? 100% free to use, real CAD with real tools.
Makes a lot of shit easier and faster than trying to do it in CAD for programmers (SCAD), CAD for Architects (Sketchup), or CAD for Artists (Plasticity).

Why not spend use CAD that's made for CAD?

>>2609966
yes, but i'm kinda afraid of losing detail or having huge, very visible layers. i have another big print in mind, so i will tweak things around.

>>2609975
>Have you tried Fusion 360? 100% free to use, real CAD with real tools.
It's not free as in freedom.

>CAD for architects
more like CAD for schoolkids

>>2609975
>real CAD with real tools
fusion360 is not 'real' cad
fusion360 is not free software (TM)
fusion 360 is babby's first PLM software, for troglodytes and cabinetmakers. it's the de facto norm for sharing a lot of open-source hobbyist projects, due to the fact that it's easy to acquire because the company promotes it for this purpose. Like other babby software, it has shit performance, the solver is unreliable, the parameters are an afterthought, and also it sucks.
cad for artists is Alias btw.

>>2609931

I ended up printing a test piece to try out tools to hang

>>2609967
I think im also getting the KP3S S1 PRO also whats the PEI sheet for and are there any other things I should get from their store? I would like to only place on order

>>2610021
If their PLA is less than what you pay at Amazon, you might get a few spools, but usually it isn't worth it. Better hunt at Amazon or locally. I would get nothing further.
https://youtu.be/NaYJMz1dapE?t=98
Guy talks about different surfaces and their pros and cons. You want the PEI sheet, you print on it, take it off and bend it to get your printed part off. But the glass plate (particularly the clean back side) has it's uses too.

>>2610026
No amazon where I live and thanks for the video. Also I was more wondering about stuff like their ABL and silicone socks they have in their shop

>>2610036
I don't use a silicone sock.
The ABL sensor makes sense if your bed is all over the place, but in that case you can simply stick the magnetic sticker to the glass plate, instead directly to the bed.
I wouldn't, it's just not worth the hassle. Use the old paper calibration method, it's a tiny printer and works fine.

Hey /3dpg/, I got into the hobby a few months ago and I'm looking to get my first printer. I've narrowed it down to K1, X1C, or mk4. I'm on the fence about the closed environment of the X1C, but the K1 and mk4 are still new to the market.

>>2610040
I see im just wondering because I dont know what all that stuff is good for I also saw thers a new KP3S Pro V2 but it costs quite a bit more then the others

>>2610048
>KP3S Pro V2
Let me look it up real quick, first time i heard about it.

>>2610048
Ok, this is what i see:
* sold out
* inductive ABL sensor, if you want one, then a hall sensor based BL-Touch, because then you can switch without recalibration between different height surfaces, like glass, PEI and so on. But it's a gimmick in such a small printer anyway
* different extruder, i don't see anything wrong with the titan clone
* different mainboard, uses Klipper instead of Marlin for speed. Might be important if you have deadlines to meet and depend on faster print times for prototyping

Anyway, sold out, so there you have it.
If you order from their homepage, try the code CG, could get you a further 10% if it's still valid.

Is there anything useful one can print? Outside of useless trinkets and very occasionally replacement parts, I'm not really sure what I can use my printer for.

>>2610056
You can print a butt plug or penis ring (however, there are physical limits to how fine a structure you can print).

>>2610056
you can print more printers

>>2610052
Yeah its pretty new and the first batch is gone but from reading that I think im just gonna stick to the pro s1 ty anon

>>2610078
That's what i would do too.
Next best printer, i think, is the Sovol SV06. You might look into it, if you get a good price, but i guess it's about $100 or so more, which isn't worth it i think.

>>2610056
Replacement remote control battery covers.

>>2609970
>Plasticity looks really damn nice, model history and parametric features be damned
Probably coming though. And you can already model dimensional accurate things. It's pretty good as long as you don't go full retard with complex mechanical stuff. I would say it's enough for most static prints.

>>2609426
It's likely the priming line, or one of the other 'customs'. There's a patch to [Prusa]Slic3r to allow you to turn off displaying 'custom' and have it removed from consideration in the legend scale:
https://github.com/montylab3d/PrusaSlicer/commit/fbc4da899153064fa7e0ce8d248a6f14e89c1a83

>>2609418
how in the fuck did a print that small take that long are you printing in fucking nanoites

>>2609418
Anything I have to measure and model myself I always make a test fit print that take minimal time as needed instead of waiting a day.

>>2609645
it's called offset (inset/outset), whatever the program. you might have to do it on a sketch layer before extruding, or offset a larger U to punch your hole.

>>2610103
>Probably coming though
Well it is based on a geometry kernel that's used by professional CAD software, so I'd imagine it would be possible. But likely coming in a later major patch, which I'd need to buy seperately.

>It's pretty good as long as you don't go full retard with complex mechanical stuff
The thing is though, I am also designing a somewhat complex electromechanical CAD project. I'm using OpenSCAD to ensure dimensional parity between different components, but it's hardly brilliant (no chamfers).

>>2610183
Yeah I shoulda done that this time too.

>>2610190
>Yeah I shoulda done that this time too.

Well to be honest, I also use to print the models fully and find I made a mistake, since then I learned my lesson.

not perfect by any means, but I'm still surprised by the level of detail for an FDM printer.

>>2610062
>3d printed fingerboxes
We need to regulate printers

>>2610056
you can print organizers for all your 3d printing stuff, and tools and upgrades for your 3d printer

>>2610206
what printer?

>>2610210
x1 carbon

Is there not a market for making super-speed printers (e.g. voron, Annex K3, etc.) and fitting them with tiny nozzles for really detailed prints?

for regular materials (pla, petg, abs, nylon mostly) with hi flow cht clone nozzles, is there any advantage for a copper or brass heatbock vs aluminum? what about the normal 100k thermistor vs a pt100/1000?

Friend gave me his ol flashforge finder 2. Just need to get an attachment for it so i can used the large spools if filament i already bought.

Whats the consensus on the creality k1 vs the bambu? I already have the bambu and love it, but thinking about getting another printer.

>>2610238
There isn't, there are only about a dozen people in the western hemisphere with their hands on a K1.
It's a brand new printer, and the very few and brief things we've seen of it have been kind of meh, there are no "good" reviews left, and there won't be any remotely long-term reviews for awhile. (Reviewers have been receiving printers over the last week)

Don't get excited for it, there's no comparison between them given the price.
Considering what you get for $600 with a K1 versus $700 for the P1P, the K1 has a smaller build area, steel rods that slow it down compared to a P1P, the P1P bed is mains voltage instead of 24v so it heats much faster, Bambu's build quality is notably good while Creality has a long-standing reputation for poor quality choices and poor QC.

The price difference right now is ~4 rolls of good filament, not worth it, buy the real thing and ignore the Creality clone.
In a few months, maybe a year, when the K1 is consistently available for ~$500 or less, then it'll be a "real" option.

>>2610247
> when the K1 is consistently available for ~$500 or less, then it'll be a "real" option.
Wonder how upgradable it will be by then? Or will the hobby community just ignore it?

What about mods to Bambu printers, do we have many of them yet?

>>2610230
Copper conducts heat roughly twice as fast as aluminum, almost four times as fast as brass.
It also has a lower specific heat capacity than either aluminum or brass, so the block heats faster and stays hot with less energy.
Fuck yes an Aluminum or Brass heat block can bottleneck your hotend, if you want flow and you spent the $2 for a CHT clone nozzle, then spend the additional $10 on a copper block.

Thermistor shit is for high temps, you're talking about regular materials, zero incentive to change your thermistor unless you don't like the mounting style you've got or just really LOVE building new firmware.

>>2610253
Bambu released models of the frame for the P1P, Creality has not for the K1 and haven't stated whether or not they will.
It's a lot easier to design mods for shit when you don't have to bust out the calipers, especially for people who wouldn't know how to use them.
There are 9 million Ender 3 mods, but it's a cheap printer, and the hardware design is totally opensource, easy starting point for mods.
The Ender 3 also had the aluminum extrusion frame, very easy to attach shit to wherever the hell you feel like.
The P1P has the modplate system intended for people to make attachments for.

The K1, from what we've seen so far, doesn't "facilitate" modifications, but that won't stop folks.
It doesn't have to sell like hotcakes to see considerable mods.

Yes, there is already a very active a large modding scene for the Bambu printers: https://thangs.com/search/Bambu

>>2610056
If you didn't have a use for 3D printing before you got into it then why did you get into it? They're tools. You've essentially bought a drill press with no reason to dill anything. Get a hobby that 3d printing makes 400x better.

I suggest modeling. Alternatively, drone-making and other electromechanical stuff is really fun.
>>2610228
Small nozzles = far lower flow, as area is a function of radius^2. A small radius change is a huge change in area and therefore resistance to flow. Most consider detail to not the in the domain of FDM, and the far lower flow just isn't worth it when most printers are bottlenecked by flow or cooling these days, and not kinematics, vibrations, whatever. There's nothing stopping you from trying it, you'll just print slower.

>>2610270
>printers are bottlenecked by flow or cooling these days,
Posting this made me realize that if flow isn't your bottleneck, but cooling is there probably isn't any reason not to step down in nozzle size with arachne removing any issues with using extrusion widths 250% of the nozzle size.

Does anyone have experience with Qidi printers? I'm thinking about getting the X-Smart 3 as my first core xy printer and eventually using it to print the parts I need for a Voron since it's only $450 on Amazon right now.
>>2609448
>>2609967
I have a KP3S Pro that I've modded to basically be the KP3S Pro V2 by putting the linear rail upgrade on the y-axis, klipper, filament spool holder and an LED light. It's extremely good for the price, and just a good printer in general. I also have a Prusa Mini but I think I prefer the KP3S more, especially since it didn't cost $420 like the Mini did. I highly suggest ordering it from Amazon so you don't have to deal with the Chinese customer service, that's my only gripe.

>>2610274
I think you hit the nail on the head.
The flow we *can* get out of tiny nozzles now is still HEAPS more than it used to be, you can get over 4^3mm/s out of a 0.2mm CHT clone nozzle in a good hotend setup, and that's kind of crazy.
People like Tommy Sandpacker love Arachne because they can step up to 0.6mm and the quality is still "good enough" at much higher flowrates. I say fuck that, Arachne and high-flow nozzles mean I can push waaay faster with small nozzles and retain all of the detail.
I can print as fast with a 0.4mm nozzle now as I could with a 0.6mm nozzle 5 years ago, at way higher levels of detail, it's fucking awesome. New hotend/nozzle tech gives me the flowrate, newer software-side shit like Arachne, Input Shaping, and Pressure/Linear Advance mean I can get stellar quality at those flowrates, fuck it is awesome.

Even my oldest shitbox printers are considerably faster and better than they were when new thanks to all of this.

alright, I replaced the crappy flexie coupler with a spacer, thrust bearing and solid coupler, so far binding doesn't seem to be an issue. I have a 2mm lead screw on the way, the stock one is okay but has bad spots.

>>2610255
mucho thanko. I guess that'll be a yea on the copper, nay on pt. might get one of those threaded thermistors, seems like it would be more accurate than shoving a bulb in an open hole. probably doesn't make any difference though I bet.

>>2610308
Threaded are easier, the little cylinders that look like a skinny heater cartridge are my favorites, but performance-wise the differences are dominated by other factors.

>>2610304
Buy an oldham coupler while you're at it. Or a wobblex if you don't like money.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJGPMMMn8VU
check this out

>>2610309
yeah the little 3mm ones. might be a good choice too. speaking of, kinda sucks no one seems to make a clamp style mk8 block with side screws other than microswiss. seems like it would be more efficient in heating since it would have 90+% contact with the heater vs the probably 20% the set screw style does. it's only 20 bucks, but the el chinkos are almost half that and 50% cheaper is 50% cheaper any way to cut it.

>>2610304
defiantly got some improvement in the layers, and the elephant foot is finely gone.

>>2610315
If you're so concerned about performance (A valid pursuit) then you might as well buy some high temperature thermal paste, no? Slice makes some, but who wants to support slice. Apparently it makes a significant difference applied to the heatbreak, just be very very very careful not to get it inside. I imagine it'd mitigate the contact area concerns you have with the heater cartidge, too.

>>2610247
I went from the ender 3 to this bambu and its night and day. Figured I would just get another bambu, but was curious as to whether or not creality felt the fire under their ass or not. The k1 has some cool features, but yeah im probably better off with another bambu.

>>2610313
I did get an oldham coupler, but I cant mount it yet, the nut sits in a recessed area and will have to be milled out some to accommodate the oldham coupler or I'll have to make a spacer to sit in the recessed area.

>>2610326
Post pictures? Are you hanging the gantry from the nut or is the gantry resting on the nut? I'd also suggest a POM leadscrew nut -- they wear less quickly than brass, make less noise, and have less friction. With an oldham coupler and POM nut my ender 3 pro's gantry slides down when I rest my hand on it, with a stock leadscrew and shaft coupler. Very annoying but good for z-banding.

>>2610326
You're supposed to print your problems away anon, just print an oldham that fits, or redesign and then print everything else to fit your oldham, whatever it takes, so long as it takes printing.

>>2610334
>>2610337
the gantry is hanging from the nut, that block between the gantry and rails is the flaw in the kp3s pro design, if it was 3mm thicker then standard couplers would fit, I might have clearance to mount the oldham and nut under the block. if not then I'll clearance out that recess and mount it on top.

>>2610324
I'm beginning to feel like at the price point Creality has hit here, they're doing more to cannibalize sales of printers *other* than the P1P.
Compare the $600 K1 to the $430 Ender 3 S1 Pro or $450 (previously $560) Ender 5 S1, a $430-$460 Prusa Mini, the now $650-$900 Prusa MK3S+, a ludicrous $670 for the AnkerMake M5, or the $500 da Vinci 1.0 Pro.
I think the K1 is a poor competitor to the P1P, but I think it could prove to be far better than a lot of other stuff in the $500-$700 range and possibly motivate a lot of buyers with $400-$500 price targets to stretch their budgets.

>>2610366
I hate it, sorry about the rice burns.

>>2610261
I was assuming the K1 models get made available. Even if they're not, someone will probably make them and upload them so nobody else has to reinvent the wheel.

The main thing I care about is Bambu's proprietary hot-end cartridge system (maybe the K1 also does this idk), but it looks like people are probably already using aftermarket hot-ends for it. The other thing is the less transparent firmware setup, but

>>2610270
>Small nozzles = far lower flow, as area is a function of radius^2
I think it's even worse than that, something about friction and shear force, wouldn't be surprised to see it with a 3rd or 4th power. That's why you use those high-force direct extruders people use for speedboating. Like the worm-gear extruder used by the K3.
You'd probably be doing this for smaller or less-structural models, where thick walls and high infill rates won't be there to drag your print time through the roof.

>>2610321
upon closer inspection, those aren't the side screw holes on the ms block, those are just set screws for a cartridge thermistor. are those really even necessary for the MK-8? they make nozzle changes easier by keeping the block from rotating, but otherwise do they even serve a purpose?

>>2610321
the side screws I mean

>>2610304
That looks phenomenally less shitty than it did before .Well done.

if I bore out a recess for the thrust bearing, then I will just have enough clearance to mount the oldham and nut under the block.

>>2610366
I've heard it's better to hang the gantry from the nut. Something to do with tolerance causing backlash causing zbanding. I've never directly compared hanging from vs resting on the nut and oldham, though.
>>2610376
The K3 looks very interesting, as does its extruder. Mellow's cannon is another worm gear extruder but it performs poorly according to cnckitchen's tests. I wonder how it compares to the VzBot 235 or 330. Vez has done some videos printing at 2000mm/s before. 2m/s.
>>2610392
That's all it does, yes. Pretty convenient, though contributes to heat creep. Phaetus's DropEffect XG is the only hotend I know of that doesn't thanks to its unique construction.

>>2610275

So, a youtuber I watch did a live stream of an unboxing and impressions, honestly it seemed.. interesting I didn't fully watch it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0rIy00VaGg&ab_channel=NERO3D

>>2610275
>I have a KP3S Pro that I've modded to basically be the KP3S Pro V2
How much did you pay in total with all the mods because if its more then the V2 I might just get the V2 and sadly no amazon here

oldham and nut mounted, about 1mm to spare, new screw arrives tomorrow...

>>2609418
30 minutes with a soldering iron and it's good to go!

>>2610450
How horrifying, good job.

>>2610450
Very nice anon, 10/10 would put a mirror bed under it.

>>2610455
Careful, laser photons can bounce around the room for minutes after it's turned off.

Today I made a front door. It sucks but at least it's better leaning random stuff against the front.
Still getting warping with ABS parts with 45-51 C temperatures inside the enclosure. I put a trashbag over it; if the parts still warp at 65 then its time to start planning a mass murder spree. Better that than deburring brims.

>>2610458
Why is ABS such a cunt?
At least Nylon and PC behave if you do all the shit you're supposed to do, but ABS is so fucking inconsistent.
From one roll to another I've had ABS that prints with ease and ABS that's god damn fucking impossible to stop from warping horrendously.
I usually have much better luck with 70/30 ABS/PETG, just awesome stuff, like Flashforge's ABS Pro.
ESUN ABS+ is definitely nicer to work with than most, not "great", it's just ABS with conditioners formulated for printing.
Some "ABS+" out there that's PC/ABS, awesome material and prints nicer than regular ABS, but it warps just as much if not more so than the normal stuff in my experience.

Polymaker ABS is meh but their ASA is fucking EXCELLENT, it prints well and it flows hard, my good hotend can push ASA almost twice as fast as it can PLA.
I'm actually kind of surprised ASA isn't a go-to for speedbenchys and shit, I've never had anything else that flows like it, practically falls through a 0.6mm nozzle at 250C.

>>2610455
Nah it's not an issue at all even with a metal workpiece. The laser is so weak and divergent that 5cm out of its focal point it doesn't even feel warm. I do have a 5W laser coming in the mail though.

Also for some reason a faster move speed takes off more paint than a slower one, even though the laser duty-cycle is fixed. I'll have to test with lower laser duty-cycles.

I've got Ender 3 with bed level sensor and 32bit board since forever, through years got to the point where it feels reliable and most of the time I just run a print and get expected results, in general life is good. Do you guys think upgrade (let's say, to S1 Pro) would make me happy if I primarily print non-aesthetic, functional elements, and most of the time in PLA? I feel like there isn't much to possibly improve as far as general concept of a printer goes, but I'm wondering if I'm right about that. Is there something that new printers do significantly better than 5yo ones?

>>2610255
Copper is much heavier while heat transfer is mostly limited by heater to block and block to nozzle thermal resistances, not the material itself. Its better to get a longer aluminum volcano block rather than swap standard one to the copper.
Or even better get a CHT Pro type heater it is lighter and literally wraps heater around the nozzle. But kinda fragile and not rated above 300C.
I use that thing with volcano adapter and standard CHT clone nozzle with copper insert. It melts abs at 40mm3/s

>>2610458 What bedplate are u using?
I get pretty gud results with glass and isopropil alcohol + medical povidone glue. Sometimes too good which result in a cracked glass.
110C bed, 60-65C chamber, 260C nozzle
ABS have great variability from one to another manufacturer, just try it out until something works. Im using pretty cheap stuff from a local manufacturer. Good adhesion, low warping and odor but filament width is not very consistent, spools are loose and dirty. Also white color is barely printable for whatever reason.

Oh boy oh boy

>>2610524
Ordered up an eBay $75 "Unrepaired" Ender 3.
If you're not familiar, they're luck of the draw, you might get an open-box unused brand new printer, you might get a 10k hour beater that fell off the rack at a print farm, you might not even get a whole printer.

This was a good one, barely used at all. Previous owner assembled it very, very poorly, lots of small mistakes, pathetic to see on a machine that takes so little setup.
All easy to fix though.

>>2610526

>>2610527

>>2610528
Don't have to look at this board to know there are A4988 drivers in there.

>>2610529
Now I'm going to take it apart and use all of the pieces for another project.
Great Success

In need of a 350mm linear rail, got one at aliexpress but chinks sent me junk with dents inside and angle grinder marks on the borders. I understand most if not all of this shit comes from Chyna but can somebody point me to where I can get one that is not total junk as an europoor

>>2610566
Misumi, you get what you pay for, if you can afford it at all.

>>2610567
Oh, and when you buy the top dollar rails, it's often cheapest to buy larger sections of rail (>1m) and separate blocks, then cut the rail and load the blocks yourself. This can save you a LOT on good rails when building something from scratch, but if you just need "a 350mm rail" then you needn't bother. Also, don't go cutting precision rails like a monkey with half the rail hanging out of the vise and a dull hacksaw in your paws, great way to bend/twist/otherwise fuck what were quality parts.

I ordered a voxelab printer second hand from their store. This is some return section. Its my first printer. I really really hope stuff like the worm screws and frame are ok. Everything else is easily repairable I think. Any tips on what I should check out when I receive it? Its na Aquila X2

>>2610572
>cutting rails with a hacksaw
Did they not invent angle grinders where you live?

Where is dude that printed parts for his 3D printer in colors of Evangelion theme?

>>2610595
>>2610526
>they're luck of the draw, you might get an open-box unused brand new printer,
>you might get a 10k hour beater that fell off the rack at a print farm,
>you might not even get a whole printer.

Don't stress about it until you actually open the box. It might be like-new, it might be a fucking heap, no point worrying yourself trying to make a checklist of parts to check out.

>>2610632
Oh no you see I'm a white person and I cut rails with a 14" Chop Saw with an abrasive disc.
If you actually read that post you may notice I was instructing the bugs and bongs to *not* use their usual hackin saw.

>>2610645
On Voxelab's site it says its only returns. And they offer a 30 day return period. No way that has any amount of hours clocked.

>>2610660
That's any printer that's returned to them.
Doesn't just mean "printers sent back within the 30 day return period," it ALSO means "every printer that's sent back by someone who won't stop bitching to tech support," it means "every printer where the package was refused at delivery," and it means "every printer DHL misplaced for a year then returned to sender."

These are from people who purchased used second-hand Voxelab printers from Voxelab:
>One came in very good shape, mostly assembled with instructions. Unfortunately the bed heater was stuck on full heat. Bad mosfet, I guess.
>What a trainwreck. [...] Whatever moron returned this used it and then completely disassembled EVERYTHING and threw it in the box loose.
>Mine arrived with a blown bed mosfet and assorted stripped threads but looked fairly clean on first view.
>you could get lucky or you could get a box full of spare parts (dealer's choice) so don't be surprised if you have to invest another $80+ and time to get a working machine.

It might be a box of bent extrusions, stripped threads, and a house-fire mainboard.
It also might be a brand-new printer that's never been assembled.
I'd put the odds around 50/50, I see as many dumpster fires as I do genuinely new printers, but MOST are just somewhere in the middle.
Broken this, missing that, an issue or two here and there type of deal.
Nothing to worry about until you open the box.

>>2610677
I'll update you guys on the state of it I guess. I'm really hoping for a working one.

new screw arrived, not much improvement over just the spacer and thrust bearing mod. If Kingroon were to increase the clearance so better aftermarket shaft couplers could be used, switched to standard ender style nuts and drilled and taped the bottom side of the block, they could improve the value of this printer quite a bit.

>>2610710
furthest left is with 2mm screw and thrust bearing mod.

>>2610679
Don't be worried, chances of a working or near working printer are extremely high.

>>2610711
You did the thing and it worked, nice job anon.

>>2610711
A simple anti backlash nut might have done the same thing.
The lead screw nuts used in cheap chink printers are hilariously bad. I can only assume they use the shitcanned ones otherwise I can't explain how you can end up with a nut that's so loose you can tilt it one whole mm relative to the shaft.
Bought a cheap anti backlash nut from a local supplier and that shit is cunny tight. Checked both parts of it individually, you can barely tell there's any play in them.
Talking about an Ender 3 Pro btw.

What slicers are y'all using. Ive always used PrusaSlicer but seeing how slow development is i'm open to others.

Anyone have a crack for Simplify 3D 5.0?