/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2601407
>For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl
one fucking job i swear

FDMfag here, question to the resin Anons: how efficient is one full bottle of resin?
Here in the FDM world you can do a lot of shit before running out of 1kg of filament. I might be getting a resin printer and was curious about the resin efficiency

>>2601427
Varies depending on the nature of what you're printing.
"Most" printing resin has a density in a 1.05-1.15g/ml range, not too terribly different from common FDM materials, PLA is usually 1.19-1.31, PETG 1.23-1.27, ABS and ASA 1.11 - 1.14.
Resin is sold by weight typically, just like filament, so a 1kg bottle of resin has roughly the same volume as 1kg of ABS or ASA, about 10% more than 1kg of PLA.
Resin and FDM printing are both lossy. There's some material you can't use, there's waste, there are failed prints, hard to actually compare but resin is arguably worse.
A long bowden tube tube can leave >1m of filament on the spool still, you'll never get every drop of resin out of a bottle, supports are supports regardless, you get the idea.

Beyond that though, with FDM printing you rarely print solid.
With resin, printing solid is normal, especially with transparent resin. When you don't print solid, you have different considerations than with FDM.
You don't want to trap liquid resin inside your model inadvertently for many reasons, with some kinds of resin it can even cause a model to crumble and die long after it's been painted and put on a shelf.
It's typical to add drainage holes to hollow models, SLA slicers typically have tools for making placing drainage holes and even making plugs for those holes.
The other big one to consider is suction. As resin drains, it needs to be displaced by air, adding vent holes in key locations of certain models is normal.
Creating vacuum/suction can pull a model off the build plate, pull the plate out of alignment, stretch or tear the FEP film in the resin vat, all sorts of badness.

Overall, the difference ends up being tiny, almost negligible. The biggest difference is in the nature of the models being printed.
Print calibration cubes with the same wall thickness all day and you'll get "roughly" the same out of 1kg of resin as you do from 1kg of PLA.

>>2601387
>post link?

>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2384216

Anon it's not the STL that let me do this, I was trying out a method someone mentioned make it easy to remove supports, but still have the underside look great.

How do I make a canvas I've imported to fusion360 snap to the grid?

>>2601494
a link to the method m8

>>2601427
>Here in the FDM world you can do a lot of shit before running out of 1kg of filament.
tell me you print small projects without telling me you print small projects.

>>2601508
like you imported an svg into a drawing? I don't think you can. The scale and positioning of svg at least is fucking bullshit, the numbers aren't persistent (scale to 110%, realize it's too big you have to scale to 98% instead of changing to 107%). You can't set the origin afik, it's really one of those areas F360 is a super piece of shit.

>>2601407
>my robot made it into the thread-webm
Peak achievement of a lifetime

>>2601535
oh it was a 4chan post all I did was this

>set z offset for the top of the support to 0 mm
>have it pause at the layer it finishes the support
>apply purple gluestick to the top of the support
>resume print.

Granted, I only recommend doing this if you don't need to add alot of pausing at layers to apply the glue, the supports on the cross tweezers finished at the same layer height, so it was an easy model to test this on.

>>2601556

Another thing, depending on how well your supports are tuned, if you try this where this is a hole in the middle like to put a magnet at the bottom of the print, it might be a huge bitch to remove if zits weld onto the support from the model or vice versa.

>>2601541
I imported a png as a canvas so I can trace over it to make a 3d model from it. I wanted it to snap to the grid so I could easily start with the box outline being accurate and on target

>>2601556
>>2601558
excellent thanks, yeah that seems like a good idea I'll give it a shot, obviously it'll be a pain in the ass and tedious for more than one or two layers of support but otherwise an excellent idea.

>>2601549
Now that you've achieved fame and accolades,
you can never motivate yourself to achieve further successes. Unfortunately, it's a statistical fact, validated by several (literally several) TEDx talks.
That's why I don't tell anybody about my clean fusion reactor I 3d printed from Inland PETG, because the moment I achieve admiration, I know that I will never surpass that achievement.
rip in piece, ur project

>>2601549
It's a good dog

>>2601573
Well, shit ._.

>>2601589
Hopefully I'll have a video of it walking in the next few days. I think I have gotten my head around the kinematics and how to put it into code

Tronxy saga continues:
World's fleshiest skeleton minifigure.
Today printing and assembling a fully-PLA mechanical tourbillon.

>>2601628
Why does it look so messy?

>>2601628
That's disgusting, good job anon

>>2601632
>>2601633
Cheers, anons.
Poor belt tensioning and too many supports, methinks.
No recalibration either after a 50 hour print of BJD parts, and it tends to come apart a bit after long prints.
Here is WIP pic on the ball joint doll.

>>2601635
Here is a strung arm, testing.
I actually finished the doll yesterday, will post picture a little later, just tired right now.

>>2601628
Can you link me that skeleton stl?

>>2601639
Hell yeah, brother.
It's on Thingiverse, just search Skeleton Minifig, it is popular and comes up right away. It's at the top even if you just search "Lego."
Next project after BJD and tourbillon is to make industrial quantities of parametric Lego for the fun of it.

Wasted about 5 days and a kilo of PLA troubleshooting issues with shifting layers when all I needed to do was plug my printer into a different outlet. Jesus Christ

>>2601643
nice one

>>2601639
Here, I got on my computer at last, the link:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3536767

I don't know why my print was this awful, I just greased the Z-axis screws - I think I might've bumped the bed and fucked up the belt tension on my X axis belt.
Also, need to level both Z-axis screws relative to one another.
Bumped it with a glue stick while trying to improve bed adhesion.

I had half a mind to re-calibrate extruder and print one of those belt-tensioner screws.
I also think one of my steppers might be close to giving up the ghost.

I plan to get at least another 200 hours from it before I swap out any parts though. Gonna pull that servo apart and see what the matter is.

Has anybody here used plasticity? Were the export problems fixed?
Looks perfect for modeling parts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQSlC2PXYzE

>>2601646
Thank you, fren, I'm grateful to the machine for churning out a print this well.
Normally, I wouldn't be able to rely on it, but it pulled through on a solid 4 day printing shift, with only brief interruptions to remove old pieces and re-print.

No bed adhesive, no additional leveling beyond what I started it.
I'm going to light some incense for it and burn a ceremonial candle as a thank you.

>>2601649
FREECAD.
A logo and interface only a mother or a fat, greasy Richard Stalinman could love.

>>2601648
Be sure to properly tension your belts.
Lots of folks run them too tight, lots of shitty tutorials tell you "pretty tight but not too tight" and give you references like "is it harder to move the bed" and "can you feel the stepper motor cogging more distinctly?" Yeah they're retards.
ANY smartphone, open up a spectrum analyzer app like Spectroid or whatever Apple-peopple use, and use that for belt tensioning.
This is a nice write-up: http://benchtopmachineshop.blogspot.com/2019/04/printer-belt-tension.html?m=1
You can even cheat and just go straight to Wolfram alpha and pop in the equation, f0 = 1/(L*2) * sqrt((4.44822*6)/0.0083) where L == your free belt length in mm, gives you the result in kilohertz.

You measure your exposed belt, plug in the numbers to get a frequency, adjust belt tension until it's the dominant/resonant frequency of the belt, you're done.
This is by far the easiest and quickest way to actually tension your belts CORRECTLY, and it sure as shit matters.

>>2601651

>>2601643
Them some big background tiddies

>>2601407
>Level Ender 3 for about 20 minutes (upgraded springs and Bl Touch)
>Go to print
>Bed level is still off
I read the Anon in the previous thread was experiencing something similar with Z-binding, so I tried to shim it and cleaned the Z-axis rod and added PTFE Lube. Should I add a dual Z-axis alongside Klipper to fix it?

>>2601649
>CAD for Artists
>$100 Indie, $300 Commercial
Yeah, no.

>>2601660
$100 is nothing for a parasolid modeler.
>inb4 free cloudshit

>>2601662
Sounds like crippled-CAD, looks like crippled-CAD, priced like crippled-CAD.
What's the appeal? Genuinely, is there something about it that you like?

>>2601664
Makes me think of whatever that one is everyone uses on iPads.
Not impressive, slightly meh honestly, but it runs extremely well on a shitty tablet and the interface was built for it from the ground up.
For being able to hold a tablet and a stylus and just get at it wherever you happen to be sitting/standing, I can definitely see the appeal, sure as shit not about to pick up a Surface Pro and run Solidworks on it.

>>2601664
>needing a full cad program for 3d printing
It's way faster to use than fusion and solidworks.

>>2601658
*sip*
Here's what you're wanna gonna do, brother:
>throw away bed leveling probe
>level the actual Z-axis screws with a ruler, use printer's base as a point of reference, NOT the bed
>grab a piece of origami paper
>go to each of the corners of the bed, and get it until it's JUST touching the paper
>do this in a criss-cross pattern, like tightening a car wheel's lugs
>go back to first corner, now tighten until the paper is just snug, but still moves freely
>do the corner diagonal
>then the one adjacent, and again, diagonal
Leveling in a criss-cross manner is very important.
Using THIN origami paper is also important.
Being sure as shit that your Z-axis is level to start with is VERY important.

Make sure frame is square and rigid as fuck.

>>2601658
Cont.
If you're still having problems, possible something's wrong with your steppers, or again, look for bent / fucked up frame.
Also, make sure bed isn't actually warped.
I print on a sheet of glass on top of my bed, helps work out any kinks from Chinesium metal bed.

>>2601654
Thank you for the advice, fren.
I'll take a peek at the link for sure, might even give the tensioning a try today, will report back how it goes.

>>2601670
>>2601672
Thanks for the info dump bro, I've been printing it for the past couple of months by letting it grind down a few mm's of nozzle and my prints were fine, but I've decided to stop doing the Grug solution and actually try and fix it properly
I bought it from some dude on Ebay who threw the printer in a box with no packing material, and it was partially poking out the box when I first saw it. I'll stop being lazy and reassemble it properly

>>2601676
No problem at all, fren, glad it could be of use.
I used to do it that way too, and I think an autistic overly "scientific" approach is wrong as well - from what I've learned now, the best way to go about 3D printing is to just address every single problem as it comes up, to treat it with care, and it will serve you for years to come.
You don't want to neglect anything, since it will snowball.
>belt tension too tight - gonna fuck up your steppers in a few months
>nozzle hits the bed slightly - gonna wreck your nozzle in a week of printing
>shoving filament back UP nozzle from overly-tight layers - will ruin heater core and extruder

I admire the decision to get it done right - cheers to you, anon, and I wish you the best of luck.
I restored my 7 year old Tronxy after it sat in a garage unused for 2 years, and another 2 years before in an abandoned state, also do a bit of electronics refurbishing as a side business - if you want advice or help, feel welcome to ask on here, I'll be lurking.
Welcome to the hobby, mate.

Will pink PLA be strong enough for caliper adapter?

>>2601685
Very cool concept, but you gon' die, anon.

>>2601685
Might want to try matte or silk PLA, much better than the normal stuff.

>>2601685
As long as you add some cooling holes you should be good to pull massive stoppies at your local impromptu negro intersection festival.

>>2601685
gonna be a beautiful spray of pink confetti the one time you need to stop

>>2601685
people asked if i was going to replace my brake lever with a print, meanwhile this mad lad

>>2601689
you're literally retarded, both of those are weaker than normal PLA.

>>2601685
it might be, but PLA+ will for sure be

>>2601710
>you're literally retarded, both of those are weaker than normal PLA.

>>2601643
truly absurd

>>2601685
>it's the front brake
go for it, that's the one that's not that important right???
>>2601693
>cooling holes
5/10

>>2601710
>it might be, but PLA+ will for sure be
Holy fuck you're retarded.
No, neither would be anywhere near strong enough for this application.
The caliper adapter needs to be both strong and rigid, far more so than you'll get from any "PLA+".
I wouldn't trust it printed out of Nylon, I wouldn't trust it printed out of fiber reinforced Ultem.
Caliper mounts are made of cast iron, aluminum, or less often steel, and you better believe they'd injection mold them if they could because it'd be cheaper than the casting and machining process they have to do now.

Fun cute mock-up piece, template for a real one, but absolutely NOT functional. Fucking suicidal if you think it's serviceable.

FLESH COLORED CAR, LET'S GO BROTHERS
MEATMOBILE
Salvaged the print after corner started peeling up with masking tape.
Mяcoмoбиль.

>>2601721
Printer just shat a bolt out of the extruder mechanism (bowden printer).
Realized it's the one that tightens the extruder's filament squeezing thing to the extruder assembly.
Paused print, put bolt back in, continuing print now.
Filament seems to extrude normally.

After I finish with this fucking car, I'll have to rebuild the entire thing, since bolts are falling out left and right.
But it's still got 6 hours left on this print, and it's not gonna quit on me 1/3 of the way in.
I'm going to move the print head manually if I must, but I'm finishing this stupid fucking car.

>>2601726
>I'm going to move the print head manually if I must
A non-CNC 3D printer sounds both incredibly fun and infuriating to use. No electronics, no motors, just you and a few knobs to move the toolhead and extruder. With the right technique(s), you could probably get accurate parts, unlike those 3D pen things that are functionally useless.

>>2601719
>Fucking suicidal
I mean, that's a requirement for owning a motorbike so it checks out.

>>2601738
Fair enough. Why aren't bikers printing helmets, handlebars, grips, LED headlights/taillights, brake caliper brackets, pulleys/sprockets, wheels, swing arms, with no sense of self-preservation they could make some really cool shit.

>>2601738
Gotta be a mad cunt to ride something with zero protection from all the idiotic drivers out there

It's just a prototype, already working on final part. Maybe i will test it at very low speed lol.
>>2601696
with markforged continuous carbon fibre stuff that could work. You can 3d print a mould and do fake forged CF, always wanted to try it.
>>2601693
>local impromptu negro intersection festival
no such thing where i live
>>2601748
Just some dead animal skin and piece of injection moulded plastic. What's with hate towards motorcycles anyway?

Just started with my printer. After searching through Thingiverse, I've come to the conclusion that there are no guns nor anime tiddies to print there. Where do I get that spicy stuff?

>>2601685
Risking a ban, you'd be better off getting a lathe and drill press.
That thing needs to withstand a fuckton of force. There's a reason they make 'em out of metal and not plastics, which would be way cheaper and lighter.

>>2601771
See >>2601759

>>2601771
>>2601759
nevermind

>>2601734
When you started saying that, I immediately thought,
>3d pen
But, kek, got inb4'd.
You're right though, a "deposition" mill would be fun as shit.

I would venture to guess that with decades and decades of practice, someone could be trained to use a welder as a 3D pen in a mill, and make custom metal parts, kek.
You honestly have a good idea, thinking about it, it'd be really fucking fun to put a 3D pen or printer extruder on a dimensional table with some knobs.
I challenge you with this - those Lego drawing machines, but with a 3D pen.

>>2601759
>What's with hate towards motorcycles anyway?
No hate, I know from experience first hand how much it sucks to be on 2 wheels on the road

>>2601433
Very interesting information, thanks mate
>>2601539
I print tall as fuck vases

>>2601759
>What's with hate towards motorcycles anyway?
you now get added asshole points for acting dumb

>>2601771
>Risking a ban,
There's no fucking way you get banned from being a dumbass. The only thing you're risking is your neck and potentially the safety of public road users, you're shitposting opportunities are surely safe from harm... right?
the rules reference weapons, if you die on the ducati then we get your organs and besides it's not a weapon

>>2601870
I think he means he's risking a ban from real life, I thought it was a joke about how anon will become an hero.

You guys are pretty awesome bros, I'm not gonna lie.
I love 3D printing and I love this site.
Even if I've had a fuck-ton of arguments and fights on here, it's still online home, and there's just no place like home.
I barely go on any other sites anymore, it's just garbage, and my 1-2 hours I limit my computer use at daily, I'm on here talking to you dumb cunts about which 3D printer filament is best.
Cheers and godspeed.

>>2601407
I have concluded an X1 carbon is a $1500 anxiety generation machine.
It requires faith not only from purchasing standpoint but also operation.

holy FUCKING SHIT. those copper insert cht clones are FUCKING AWESOME. before my ender would sometimes struggle to keep up extrusion even at just 50 mm/s on long enough lines, like doing the bottom surfaces of a large footprint print, just due to not being able to melt the plastic fast enough. now I have all the speeds cranked up to 100 (literally) and I can't make it skip if I try, it's a god damn miracle. also don't need linear advance anymore since setting it to literally anything above zero just results in worse quality on test and actual prints so that's a fantastic bonus, one more thing I don't have to fuck about with. fucking 10 out of 10 there bondtech, just too bad you want a 25000x markup just for drilling some holes otherwise I would buy them from you, maybe if they were 5 bucks a pop or $50 for a .2-.6 set or something reasonable like that.

side note, is Google having an aneurysm or something? because if you Google "linear advance" all it comes up with is like 10 videos, and absolutely nothing else. not a single other result, video or link or otherwise. if you also look up like "Marlin linear advance" it comes up with those same videos, and then some books about fuckin trains or some shit? I don't know I tried to look it up real quick just to make sure I knew what I was talking about and Google's just over here having a stroke for some reason.

>>2601748
Kek, motorcycles have no trouble wrecking all by themselves.

>>2601893

>>2600802
>Decided to try out the Chinese CHT clone meme nozzles and they do not disappoint.
>limited to a pathetic 8mm^3/s flow rate. With meme nozzle, pushing 13.5 no problem, that's a very nice 69% increase.

Fuckin' amazing isn't it? Way, way beyond my expectations.

what would you guys recommend for big prints if someone wanted to print cosplay armor stuff?

>>2601970
A big printer.

>>2601970
Depends on your level of experience and your comfort with tinkering. How big do you need?
A full sized Mandalorian helmet runs 240x200mm, a Stormtrooper helmet can exceed 250x280mm, swords can be over 1.4m long, a cuirass can be in the upwards of 600x900mm and printed flat to be form fitted it can be over 1m square.

Top choice for cheapshit 310x310x400mm (12.2" square x 15.75") printer right now: https://3dprintingdeals.com/product/207-sunlu-s8-pro-or-170-s8/
It's a cheap piece of shit, that's why it's cheap, because it is. It's just a plain CR-10ish Enderish "clone", a very generic printer made of off-the-shelf China parts.
Absolutely TERRIBLE choice for a beginner or someone who hates to tinker, perfect for someone who has a parts bin and is happy to spend a day fixing a brand-new riceprinter, it's only about $20 more than picking up a used/unrepaired CR-10 or similar on the eBiddit which are rarely available anyway.

The "serious" option would be a Voron or Ratrig, a good Voron kit or scratch-build is worth every dime, but it's still a lot of money to throw at a printer.

Going bigger, it starts getting harder to know where to put your money, 300x300 is a sweet spot for FDM.
Vorons aren't "supposed" to go bigger, Ratrigs are but they're up-front about larger being worse.
Do NOT swallow the TronXY pill unless you're really into the tinkering/modifying, because out of the box they're hot garbage. They "look" like a decent value but I have a hard time recommending them at all unless you get one at a steep discount or used or something.
The Creality Ender 5 PLUS is not a bad deal for what it is, but I don't know if it's really worth $200 more than a 330mm TronXY X5SA. They're still both cheapshit printers.
Large-format printers that are actually good cost too much, once you pass the 300mm mark DIY is the way to go, unless you want to *invest* in a printer rather than just buying one. +1 for Voron or Ratrig.

A belt printer if you're into masochism.

I recently printed a Satsana mini and have been struggling with stringing ever since. Today I tested the airflow using a glass of water. While the stream is under the nozzle, it is not concentrated in the very center, but to the left of the nozzle. I suspect this is due to the fact that I am using one fan and one duct is longer. Does it matter? Should I try to fix it or should I print something symmetrical like MinionD?

>>2601407
How's the FLSUN 400?
Already comes with klipper and a screen for it, has direct drive, claims 400m/s and the SR was good so theyre kinda trustworthy but... seems too good to be true
Anybody have solid111 info on this thing?

>>2602029
>Already comes with klipper

Honestly a company using klipper is just a bad idea. Klipper isn't intended to be used for mass produced printers. You have an average joe with no klipper experience buying a printer with klipper will make it just more difficult for them.

Anyways enough about that ranting. IF you are familiar with klipper, check what hardware they use, if its known hardware you can buy off the shelf, then I would say it should be fine, if you ever need to swap stuff out and doesn't have soem weird janky setup

>looking at you qidi

>>2601988
>https://3dprintingdeals.com/product/207-sunlu-s8-pro-or-170-s8/

that looks like it has dual lead screw, as cheap as it is, I would def put klipper, and swap to a controller board that that independent z, or go budget router

>budget route, if printer is already using a 32 bit controller board
>buy SKR PiCO
>put z steppers on that board
>setup klipper for multi MCU

Even so, you can have pico control other stuff too, like ABL sensor/probe/whatever, or control LED/RGB

I am still trying to get my ender 3 8bit to work for my z steppers in my cr10s pro.

>>2601685
>>2601687
>>2601689
>>2601693
>>2601695
>>2601696
>>2601710
>>2601718
>>2601771
all these fags not realizing what prototyping is about. you make it out of plastic to make sure it fits correctly and works, then you get it machined

>>2601888
my AMS case came warped and I had to practically submit retina scans to get them to send a replacement. meanwhile my #1 slot cannot fucking get through a roll to save my life so I'm essentially running a 3 color boondoggle.

still the best printer I've ever owned, just not the fairy tale that I was sold.

When Elegoo say they're out of stock on replacement LCDs for Mars Pros, does that mean they're just not in stock right now or have they discontinued them

>>2602214
It means you shouldn't order from chink companies.

>>2602213
Mine seemed to have come alright
Minimal bed warp (atleast not the banana that some people got)
AMS seems to be doing fine, got the 200G PLA sample in the first slot and something I have noticed is it's very noisy compared to the full cardboard spool in slot two, it also has a tendency to rewind the spool too tight but it's smart enough to unwind the spool some after failing to load it the first time. It doesn't always fuck up tho, only sometimes it winds to tight.
Hasn't errored out any

>>2601970
I would say get a normal size 3D printer and a basic home injection molding setup, print molds in parts, assemble and inject. Big prints are the devil's work.

>>2602214
What an original Mars Pro? Discontinued because garbage, the upgrade kit to slap in the 6.08" Mono screen is only $46, in stock right now from Chitu systems, the company that makes ALL of the hardware for ALL of the Creality, Elegoo, Anycubic, Flashforge, Phrozen, basically the vast majority of resin printers currently available.
They make all the hardware, check out chitusystems.com, you'll also find the upgrade kits in stock shipped from China.

Mяcoмoбиль PART I, PRINTED SUCCESSFULLY.

>>2602252
Anons, you DO make sure to shave your printer bed, right?
I always maintain a nice layer of old glue seasoning and PLA gunk of at least 1 origami sheet thick, but no more than 3 origami sheets thick.

>>2602254
Re-application of new seasoning, like a fine cast iron pan.
>adhesion so strong that the card came off with all pieces still attached to the bed, and I had to spend 1 hour with a scalpel pulling print pieces off

Mmmmm, Elmer's glue.

>>2602157
Nice reading comprehension, he literally asked "Will pink PLA be strong enough for caliper adapter?".

>>2602254
>>2602257
>most sane ender user

>>2602252
By the way, whats the point of printing that frame and the little connecting parts?

>>2602267
That's no Ender, anon!
It's a Tronxy P802M, circa 2016 / 2017.
Built that beauty meself, only printer I've ever owned, only printer I'll ever own.

The frame and little connecting parts are for treating it like a kit, it's very fun - it's just a feature from modelmaking kits.
Mostly so you can keep track of all the parts and pop them out as you need them.

Easy to store, if for any reason you want to print 20 sets, or if you want to gift them - also, less to keep track off, can print in one piece.
Better adhesion too, no need for brim.

>>2602267
P.S. I just realized what must've given you the impression it's an Ender - I actually just bought that glass plate as it was the cheapest one on Amazon, then I duct taped it in place on top of the Chinesium metal plate my Tronxy came with.

>>2602254
>>2602257
I use extra strong hair spray, one time when printing with asa glass plate was bent but part was still attached to it. You can get mirror like finish with it, it's easier to apply thin uniform coat compared to glue stick.
For cleaning just use warm water

>>2602277
Checked, and thank you for the advice, anon!
My primary reason for using a glue stick is just that it's non-toxic - how are the fumes with the hair spray?
Are there any low-fume ones?

I definitely have been wanting to use a can, but it just feels like it's so expensive compared to glue (perhaps for good reason, but I'm a cheap cunt.)
Can you tell me a bit more, fren?

>>2602247
VERY intredasting anonie, thank you

>>2602278
I use picrel, but it's probably unobtainium in other countries. Pricewise, one bootle is around 5 glue sticks.
It's a hair spray why would it be toxic? I just use it on balcony, cardboard box might work, once used it inside enclosure and everything was sticky.
It's not in pressurized can like spray paint, just simple pump spray, so hardly any fumes. After the alcohol evaporates there's no noticeable smell when printing.
Parts are very difficult to remove when warm, but when they cool down you can remove them without tools. From what i remember it doesn't work as good if build plate temp is lower than 50C.

Guys help!
I saw a nut cracking device posted here a while back. It can crush two walnuts at the same time. I need it for a friend to ramp up his walnut cracking operation.

>>2602288
Oh, that's interesting, I've never seen anything like it before, anon.
All the hair spray here is precisely in a pressurized can, like spray paint.
Smells like acetone and cancer fumes whenever you use it.

I think I just accidentally downloaded the wrong fusion 360, 30 day free trial bs, can I switch to hobbyist when this ends or does it just stop working until I fork over money?
>>2602297
has he considered using squirrels?

>>2602317
I think all the downloads for F360 are essentially the same. Your license is determined by the account. So I'm guessing you're getting a 30 day trial of all the features and then it's gonna cut you down to hobbyist level

>>2602319
10 models limit now is pretty useless, but I guess it beats tinkercad in still having more features, hope it's got the same intuitivity, I just sometimes feel a little restricted in what I'm able to do in tinkercad

Unhinged Tronxy guy is my favourite poster

>>2602327
It's 10 "Active" at a time. You can switch projects between Editable and Read-Only at any time.
So you can have as many designs as you want, but only 10 marked for editing at once.
It's truly not a restriction, it's barely even an inconvenience at all unless you're actively working on >10 projects throughout a given day, and even then it's just a couple of extra clicks.

anybody have luck with the Sunlu PLA on Amazon, messing with temp and retract settings helps but doesn't completely eliminate stringing, the sample PLA supplied with my kingroon worked awesome.

>>2602354
You're MY favorite poster, anon.
Mяcoмoбиль nearing completion.

IT IS DONE
Next project, Lego.
Maybe some printer upgrades.
Or a toy of some sort.

FGC-9 one day.

>>2602297
I've never found the double nut buster in the wild, it's likely that it was someone's custom one-off, it closely resembles several other typical nutcracker designs.
It's the kind of design you could whip out in 15 minutes to be perfectly honest.

>>2602417
>Eggs Press BDSM Ball Crusher CBT

>>2602418
kek
>"oh yeah, ever since I got into CBT, I've just been so happy and relaxed"
>"it made my erectile dysfunction go away, love life is on a whole new level, no more headaches or back pain, just all around happier"
>you mean CBD, right?
>"what's CBD, brother?"

>>2602417

The design is dumb, you have to orientate it where the layers will be the weakest when you try to use it.

>>2602354
my favorite is the poster saying v wheels are better than linear rails, and also said that linear rail will bend to the twist/shape of aluminum extrusion

Knew that poster was retarded the moment they try to convince someone
>stainless steel being weaker than aluminum.

>>2602317
>squirrel based nut busting
Bestiality is illegal where I live.

>>2602469
You sure? A lot of those laws are very old and very specific and haven't really been refined.
You might be surprised to find you're specifically barred from copulating with sheep, or livestock intended for human consumption, or that technically you're not banned from fucking your dog but you must use a condom as spawning hell-hounds is outlawed.

I'm thinking about taking on the challange of printing a starwars helmet. My painting skills are shit but when it comes to tinting visors I'm decent at it.

>>2602414
Satisfying to look at

>>2602472
Thank you, fren, you flatter me.
I may yet do another mechanical creation next, perhaps a tourbillon, or maybe even a full mechanical movement clock.

>>2602471
If you're on the fence, do a Mando helmet. It's one of the most compact, you can likely print a wearable one as a single piece unless you have a particularly small printer or fat head, 1:1 scale fits on a Prusa bed if I'm not mistaken, and the details are mild and forgiving.

How bad is the durability of SLA resins? I'm a printlet and trying to decide between buying a MSLA or FDM printer. I'd mostly use it to make cases for electronics but the extremely tight tolerances SLA prints can achieve seems really appealing and some of the transparent resins look very nice as well.

>>2602509
You can get decent tolerances from FDM, like 0.1mm if you know what you're doing. That's more than enough for me, but I don't know what you're doing. Conventional PLA filament is a lot more robust (both against impacts and in tension) than conventional resin while still being rigid. While you can get resins that have higher impact resistance, they tend to be a lot less stiff.

Also MSLA is old tech, the constant wear and tear on the LCD is a turn off for me. I'd prefer to go for a DLP resin printer, but they are a lot more expensive.

>>2602513
I'm in the same boat with SLA printers, I want to get one but the state of msla is frustrating. The current market is kinda dogshit with basically everything just minor variations of the same chitu hardware at slightly different sizes.
I've been holding out hope for some innovation but it seems like formlabs is the only place doing anything interesting but not at the hobbyist level.

>>2602509
It varies wildly as there is a huge selection of materials available, but generally it doesn't compare to the durability, strength, and ductility you can get from FDM prints.
However, you can always shell out the cash to get materials that meet your specs, which isn't the case with FDM.
Common resin is brittle as fuck, but so-called ABS-like or Nylon-like resins are much more "rugged" and only cost marginally more than the normal shit, and there are tons of additional options as your budget increases.

There is very little in the way of consideration for resin compatibility outside of the most extreme fiber-reinforced resins that require continuous mixing/agitation and resins that have a high working temperature and need heated vats.
In that way, you could argue that a "typical" resin printer is much more versatile than a "typical" FDM printer, you have access to a broader spectrum of materials right out of the box.

Fuck no I'm not gonna print with Loctite 3843 all day every day, but I can use it whenever I want if needed with -no- other considerations, just some settings to adjust.
Give someone with their $800 bedslinger a roll of carbon-fiber reinforced PEEK, and it's nothing but a paperweight to them.

>>2602513
>>2602522
Any hobbyist market laser-based SLA printers? I hear you get better quality surface finish, since they're not locked to the same pixel grid. Probably also much better contrast than MSLA, but I'm not sure how they compare to DLP. A single laser is probably a lot slower than a full projector though, unless you use a laser of similar total power output to your UVA backlight, at which point that galvo is going to be whipping about really fast.

Higher constrast (e.g. not single LCD MSLA) resin printers are probably a lot better for PCB making too, I tried with a Photon Mono, but the contrast leaves a lot to be desired. Going to try lasering a PCB now.

Automated my living room curtains recently. Had to print 90 degree gears because i don't have enough clearance where i need to mount the motor/circuits

Used two Zigbee relays to control power flow direction, and printed a casing

Motor mounted behind the curtains

bracket to attach the curtains to the ball chain

Trigger switch to control when the curtains stop

This is the holder i designed to hold the trigger switch, it allows me to fine tune where to stop the curtains without re-drilling the mounts over and over

Final result. the whole thing cost me like 25$. I checked online for ready solution for my curtains and was shocked by how expensive they are. People who buy stuff are suckers

>want to make a leman russ battle tank flower pot/germination planter
>download the best free model I find
>there's this much blue even at 70 degree supports
Should I find a different model?

>>2602573
Did you seriously take a photograph of your screen?

>>2602573
use "make overhangs printable" and see if you still like the way it looks after slicing. I think it's an experimental, can't remember. just use the search bar. you could also start working with tree supports. you have options.

>>2602589
I am using a monitored wifi so I have to phone post
>>2602593
I'll look into it, I don't really know much about supports and this model isn't the one to learn it them since splicing takes 5 minutes

>>2602417
I suspect you are a Onions user. The rest of us just crush two walnuts against each other in the palm of their hand.

>>2602642
Anon, it's not for crushing walnuts, it's for yournuts.

>>2602652
Seriously?
Jesus Christ. I thought this was a christian blue board?
Jesus Christ!

>>2602652
Wait, is it actually?
I thought it was for walnuts - why would they have a design for just one nut then?
I WAS thinking it was strange PLA would be stronger than walnut shells, but who knows.

>>2602562
>>2602563
>>2602564
Nicely done printer anon

>>2602570
Very nice ya cunt, I've been wanting to do this for awhile but I have entirely the wrong setup to do it with, I'd have to spend 10x as much getting ready as I would on the actual project.
Am jealous, good job.

>>2602418
>€4.99
nevermind then

>>2602728
>22 Downloads
>US$121.88 Sales
For a 10 minute model that's not optimized for 3D printing.

>>2602522
There is some stuff with smaller brands doing a better job with msla stuff, the Uniformation GK 2 hardware seems to be a bit better of an option that's on the edge of the hobbyist space.
This guy has a review of it that paints it in a positive light (Still a 'paid' youtube reviewer though)
https://youtu.be/ZUo-jEt8-5Y

>>2602570
Is it on a timer? If so what are you using for the timer?

>>2601651
>He doesn't use the real thunder branch

Can't get this to fit and it's turning into a bigger pain than I bargained for but it's gonna be a surprise for my mom

>>2602793
Not the anon you replied to, is it more stable/better?

Give it to me straight doctor, what's the best infill pattern for a good material amount/strength ratio?

>>2602806
Gyroid, or Triangles, but the printer parts for 3d printers like voron, annex, rat rig I believe all recommend Gyroid infill

>>2602795
I think it's the model, mine didn't fit either. I never tried scaling the top slightly smaller though

>>2602407
I'm getting better results with the Amazon Sunlu PLA using a bed temp of 80 and a nozzle temp of 220 and retract of 2mm on my Kingroon. also my bed is high in the center by quite a bit, I had to take the bed off prop it up on some wood blocks and give is a few whacks with a rubber mallet, still not perfect but better. Kingroon should laser cut their beds and not cut them with a hydraulic press.

>>2602277
Hair spray works great, except when it doesn't, and that's when your room's temp difference is a bit high with your printer's bed. With big prints I usually combine it with also glue stick, because after using solely glue stick for around a year, it was just a pain in the ass to remove the prints from my glass bed, using both takes a bit of work to remove from glass, but not so much.

i just purchased an ender 3 neo v2, what am i in for anons

>>2602890
What in tarnation is the IPHONE on the side of yer 3D printer, anon?
And why on EARTH is the extruder a graphics card from 2021?
And WHY is that lighthouse gay?

>>2602816
hexagon

>>2602908
Is that a prototype for the new Prusa Mk5?
sOmUcHiNnOvAtIoN

>>2602918
A Pru-HWHAT now?
That beauty isn't even mine, it's my buddy's, this one's mine.

>>2602919
A Mendel90 with Drawer Slides.
Probably comparable to the Mk3S, fundamentally they're the same machine.

>>2602787
no timers, there is a limit switch on both sides that cuts the power to the motor when hit (you can see the process in one of the webms i posted). i found this more accurate and consistent than a timer

Holy shit bro they have a new one! I'm ordering!

>>2602923
That's not funny.

I just wanna thank whoever told me the problem with my printer was bed leveling, it made me look over everything again, and the culprit was the stupid little z-axis limit switch— stupid little fucker was slightly unscrewed and tilted

>>2602930
If you're referring to the origami paper leveling advice / z-axis level, you are very welcome.

This shit is hardly going to look printed, coming from an ender 3 this is unreal
IDK if CF-PLA is the right choice for an FMDA frame but I really don't have any other use for the cf pla

Also anyone know of cheap rails for a G17 FMDA?

>>2602962
It's a terrible fucking choice, CF-PLA is extra-brittle PLA, totally unsuitable for any printed pew pews.
If you shoot it, wear gloves, aim the slide so it can fly past you instead of hitting you in the face, and take pics when it shatters after a few shots.

It's gorgeous shit though, use it for accessories, print a bunch of magazines (you want spare bodies, because they'll shatter if you drop 'em while they're loaded), print several Glonk mag releases (VERY good filament for this), use it for a single-layer skin on a frame like this with a PLA+ or Nylon "core" if you have an AMS for that printer, just do anything with it except frames.

>>2602963
Honestly not the best example image given that layer adhesion isn't the usual concern with CF-PLA, but whatever.

>>2602806
the one that looks the coolest while it's printing

Would it be unwise to simply use the x or y movement to ram the finished parts off the print bed?

>>2602980
It's a standard thing people have done for a long time now, hell yes you can.
You NEED to make it wait for the bed to cool off sufficiently with an M190, then you can have the hotend or gantry knock it off.
Here's a TERRIBLE video showing the ghetto method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avlengYsJdw

There are actually commercial products developed around this technique, beds made out of material that expands and contracts significantly with temperature so they more readily release prints with less drop in temperature, and whole kits that convert existing bedslingers into "fully automated" batch printers.
Check out this then post something snarky about the price: https://www.3dque.com/autofarm3d
>Pro
>$40 / month
>Connect up to 25 printers
>Free 100 automation hrs/month
>Additional bundles available in-app from 6¢ to 15¢ per hour
>Power Slots available

Yeah I can tilt my printer and add the Continuous Print plugin to Octoprint without spending $40/month, what kind of retarded faggot would pay for that shit?

any reviews yet on that knockoff Bambu from Creality?

>>2603006
Nope.
The printers were made available on the same day they were announced, which is fucking stupid.
The first reviews will come very soon, but the reviewers that actually give a fuck will put weeks into a review, whereas nobody has had one of these printers for more than about 1 week now.
Usually it's the weeks leading up to the official announcement that reviewers receive their units and produce their videos, so that there are hype reviews dropping at the time of the announcement, but Creality just shat this release out for their anniversary.
They dropped 5 new 3D printers on the same day, and apparently they expected people to anticipate it because it's their anniversary. Fuckin' chinktards.

They're too expensive. $600/$1000 for the K1/Max, from Creality? Mao can go fuck himself.
They're priced to compete with machines that are comparable on paper, which is fine if you're a real brand, but not if you're the brand that made their name selling garbage printers that are justified solely by their price.
If these turn out to be every bit as reliable and capable as their competitors, then good for Creality and good for us when they're on sale for 20% off a year from now, but I highly fucking doubt it.

>>2603012
>They're priced to compete with machines that are comparable on paper
>which is fine if you're a real brand
they're competing with bambwho

>>2603013
Bambu's first products have proven to be impressive, they're a new company that's quickly building a solid reputation for themselves.
Compare it to Anker, which entered the market with an overpriced bedslinger with the accelerations cranked, and is rightfully disregarded as garbage.

Creality has 9 years of experience pumping out trash, building up their very well established reputation as a trash company, producing the most popular trash for trash enthusiasts to throw away.
They're the go-to for cheap printers that sorta work, tossing their hat in the "real printers that definitely work" ring at "real printers that definitely work" prices is fucking stupid and unlikely to play out very well in the long term.
It'll be fine for them though, because they don't actually care, and their lack of care is why I'm confident it's gonna be shit.
You can't pretend they give a fuck, they currently sell the K1, K1 Max, Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 5 S1, Ender 5 Plus, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 7, Ender 6, Ender 2 Pro, CP-01, CR-X Pro, CR-10S Pro V2, CR-6 Max, CR-30, CR-10 Smart, CR-6 SE, CR-10 Smart Pro, CR-M4, Sermoon D3, Sermoon V1, Sermoon V1 Pro, Sermoon D1, CR-5 Pro_H, CR-200B, CR-200B Pro, CR-5 Pro, CR-3040 Pro, CR-5060.

That's their CURRENT lineup, and that doesn't include their resin printers, accessories, filament, etc.
They do NOT give a fuck, Bambu does, and they've shown heaps more give-a-fuck in their very brief time in the market.

>>2603018
Implessive.

With this most recent achievement, fate has, in a single stroke, marked the decline of the west and spelled a new era of wondrous prosperity and peaceful global dominance for the Chinese dragon, which promises to firmly stand in sharp contrast to the historically bloody ascent of western powers and the cruel subjugation it brought to the humbler nations of the world. The blessings of Chinese gaseous rubidium nozzles and quantum superalloy 3d printers will be the instruments with which China affirms its noble stewardship of 21st century world politics and offers the non-western world a different option; an humanist alternative to the depredations of Western leadership and the opportunity for a more equitable and dignified multilateralism.

>>2603033
>gaseous rubidium nozzles and quantum superalloy 3d printers
kekeke

>>2602921
What triggers opening/closing?

the best advice /3dpg/ ever gave me was to avoid enders and just get a bambu. Only issues I've had were first layers when the bed wasn't clean, or me doing something retarded.

I'm able to focus on learning the slicer, and even started doing some simple modeling for a few things. As long as my model and slicing settings are good, I get good results, and most of the presets bambu supplies have worked great.

>>2603039
Voice commands using the built-in Zegbee hub in amazon echo. I just say "Alexa open/close the curtains" to operate them

>>2603083
>As long as my model and slicing settings are good
Same with my Ender 3, it's certainly worth it to know what one is doing in the slicer.

>>2601668
You can't easily iterate designs though

No dimension tool, like what the fuck man? No sketches that you can go back to to change stuff in history. Pretty shitty for designing parts if you ask me, fine for some artistic shit where dimensions don't matter THAT much.

>>2602923
I did, will look nice next to my sl1s.
Keep seething bugman.

>>2603083
I wish I had an X1 but I cannot afford ._.

>>2603157
Buy a P1P, flip the box it came in, put it on P1P, voila I just spared you $300 dollars.
You can easily reach 50 °C with this method.
t.doing the same

>>2603183
50 °C as in chamber temp, if it wasnt obvious, it works so well it made me lazy to print an actual enclosure for it...

Is there any tricks to make stealthchop mode not to loose steps after 3000mm/s2 & 100mm/s?

>>2602252
>using duct tape ever for anything
I will come to your house and kill you

>>2603239
Tricks? No. Turn up your driver current if it can be safely increased, but that's all you can do.
This is the reason hybrid stepping modes exist, stealthchop is a limitation. If you're maxing out what you can do with stealthchop on, then turn stealthchop off.
If that gets you the speeds you want, then consider setting up hybrid stepping of some kind to let you do slower moves silently but automatically disable stealthchop for fast moves, makes it easier to live with it all.

>>2603155
picrelated is even better

Tonight I reify my waifu within a noxious cloud of styrene gas. witness me.
>have to turn off all eleven proxies to post

>>2601764
Freecad

>>2603267
>3 power supplies
I don't understand how you voronfags live like this and still fellate the design at every opportunity.

>>2603297
I had the 48V from my first CNC machine and a 24V PSU from a salvaged t-shirt sprayer thing. By the time I decided 100W 24V wasn't enough, I already had everything set up for 48V, so I ended up buying two new PSUs for the build. Took a bit of finagling to get everything in, I spent a day putting everything in CAD.
>voronfags
are literally still in denial about 48V, supposedly it doesn't matter until you're printing a five minute benchy, at which point it'll save 0,1s.
>yeah right
The same morans who proceed to replace everything with carbon fiber with the screws going right through the carbon fibers
>fellate the design at every opportunity
'cuz it got fillets and shit, yo.
>pic
my big boy power supply for my big boy CNC. It has rails for 3.3V, 5V, 12V, and 48V, also sounds like a vacuum cleaner. Got it for cheap because it's end of life. If you're in the market I highly recommend it.

>>2603303
Wait 48V 3D printers are a thing? What kind of stepper drivers do you need to handle 48V? TMC5160s or other external FET designs?

>>2603307
>What kind of stepper drivers do you need to handle 48V? TMC5160s
Like a goober, I shelled out for high voltage stepstick drivers (and a ricer PRO control board). It's total bullshit.
at least when I buy the latest gaymer GPU I'm actually get a piece of hardware that would've been impossible to produce a couple of years ago. While stepper drivers are exactly as fucking stupid as any other stepper driver. The fact that they continue to introduce "new" features is testament to the fact that chumps like me will continue to buy it.
When somebody does the last 1% to develop a servo motor that's practical and available, this whole bullshit Ponzi scheme is gonna come crashing down. Steppers are ancient history, I'm just waiting to chuck mine in the bin.
tl;dr all these 3d printer components are definitely marked up, it's the downside of the fact that it introduces so many people to making.

>>2603297
>3 power supplies

Well shit, what do you suggest? Buck Converters? lmao.

>>2603329
>buys TMC2209 boards for $1 a piece
can't relate sorry

On a similar note though, how cheaply can you make a brushless servo? It's just a BLDC coupled to a sufficiently precise rotary encoder, not like the bottom-end STM32s or RP2040s on common 3D printer boards can't handle the extra work. Though maybe the absurd Kv of common stepper motors means the brushless servos will have to be packing 10 times the current to get the same torque, or use gears and all the backlash that entails.

>>2603350
>or use gears and all the backlash that entails
Gear reduction for sure. The encoder's on the output shaft. While there's backlash all the variables are inside the gearbox and known to you -- e.g. inertia of the gears. So there's no guess work involved with the backlash compensation.
Beyond the hardware itself, another question: How profitably can you provide value to the customer?
Klipper already does some kinematic/motion control stuff, so you'd be rewriting that whole thing. I don't even understand how it differs from what's in use in other motion control software. But If u wanna get it to the point where some neckbeard can ctrl+P anime tiddies, it's a lot of work, beyond just the hardware. The hardware is there already, it just doesn't exist in a product which works for a sizeable consumer group.
It's technology that needs to be introduced though, because it's going to change things and not be completely mundane, unlike partially-heated beds.

So what options are there for a diy printer that salvages most of an ender 3 that expands the capabilities but keeps the modability and cheap maintenance?

I want the exercise of building a printer but not spending too much. I know there is the voron switchwire but I wonder if it's possible to do something corexy and keep all the electronics?

>>2603350
>how cheaply can you make a brushless servo?
I dunno, but I'm looking at 3 Rexroth 0 608 750 084 Servo controllers which noone's bidding on at some auction, still at 10 for 3, should I buy them even though I don't have a use for them?

>>2603372
>The encoder's on the output shaft
Ah that makes sense.

I suspect for now we're at a point where you get more value per dollar by making a printer with three or four Z steppers, one or two X and Y steppers, and multiple E steppers, compared to what you get with just four servos total and belts tying things together. The main advantages of servos is preventing step skipping and high speed movement and higher electrical efficiency, which are all only really relevant for super high speed printing. If you can make a servo + driver as cheap as a Nema 17 and TMC2209 then sure, otherwise I can't see it taking off with normal users.

But we may start to get mid-tier printers that actively adjust driving current to overdrive the motors temporarily without overheating them, and also have step-skip-recovery. The manually adjusted trimpot on stepper drivers feels like it has room for improvement, and those drivers do have skip detection.

>>2603393
Use them to make a subtractive CNC.

>>2603396
The manually adjusted trimpot is long dead, M906 is favored now.
Those TMC2209s have skip detection but sadly it's limited, it delivers no specifics. You basically get a register flag that says "skipped 1 or more steps since you last checked in." It's part of Stallguard, and is almost exclusively used for sensorless homing. You can, at the very least, automatically stop prints when steps are lost.
You can adjust the current dynamically too, but you're limited to doing it with gcode currently.
Easy one with post processing, look for M204's and insert M906's accordingly, or pick out travel moves to do the same, that kind of thing.
Definitely not as useful as it *could* be, same goes for the skip detection, feels crippled.

>>2603402
Actually if I'm not mistaken, some printers (Prusa?) use stallguard and will pause a print to rehome an axis if steps are lost on that axis.
Not ideal, but hey it's something.

>>2603402
>and is almost exclusively used for sensorless homing
Ah. I was thinking you could interrupt on that flag once it gets triggered by the first missed step, but if it isn't fast enough to detect that when travelling at high speeds that would be impossible. I guess a spring-bed printer would just have its springs depress when trying to do that without the ability to reduce the stall current a bunch, like with the M906 you mention.

You probably need a high-speed ADC and DSP for proper live stall detection and correction, while I imagine the stepper driver ICs probably just use internal analogue comparators.

>>2603404
>rehome an axis
That's actually really neat.

>>2603402
>Stallguard
>CoolStep
>back EMF
>>2603413
>internal analogue comparators
I kinda get that when a motor stalls it dissipates energy as heat instead of motion, and it seems logical that you'd be able to see this with a sensor. I don't understand the limitations of the comparator as compared to 'proper' signal analysis.
The overdrive mode... I'm not sure what the limiting factor is. Why can't you overdrive all the time? Are you using the steel case as a thermal bank? Are they using the same principle above to characterize the thermal transfer between the rotor/stator or whatever? How do they decide when it's causing damage?
You could also put some low-res high fps webcams tracking a target on the toolhead.

>>2603436
>I'm not sure what the limiting factor is.
You don't want to breakdown the enamel coating on the copper windings prematurely nor cause the permeant magnets inside to lose their magnetism.
>How do they decide when it's causing damage?
Depends on alot of factors so most things are going to be set up to be on the conservative side since you have no idea the conditions in which the stepper will be operating.
There is no real way to tell if damage if occurring until it's way too late so any type of overdrive has to be predetermined time based on a few assumptions such as worse case ambient conditions, temp rating of the stepper and the quality of the stepper. (just because your no-name chinese stepper says 110C doesn't mean you want to run it at temp constantly or at all really)

Could always add temp sensors to allow overdrive longer since you actually know what the motor's temp is and can run it harder at cooler ambient conditions

>>2603436
>I don't understand the limitations of the comparator as compared to 'proper' signal analysis.
They're just sensing current. If this were a brushed DC motor, then that current is going to be roughly constant, and it will be easy to sense an increase. But the coils are being PWM'd by the motor driver itself for a certain current output anyhow, and the expected current changes as a factor of speed.

Also running motors at higher currents is diminishing returns, you really don't need more current than a Nema 17 can handle for most 3D printing. For really fast suff maybe it's worth it.

>>2603444
>cause the permeant magnets inside to lose their magnetism
Wonder if we could use synchronous reluctance motors instead? Might be cheaper.

Gonna add a connector to the front of my Ender 3 V2 for a more professional laser plug in that's easy to swap out. Any reason in particular to also include JTAG on this connector? Seems to me like both firmware upgrades and flashing Klipper or whatever can simply be done by plopping a .bin file into the SD card or via USB serial. I know I'd need an STlink or whatever to reflash firmware if it ever gets bricked, but I'm fine with that being tedious since it's not like I'd be doing it often, if ever.

What about the reset pin header on this 4.2.2 mainboard, is that ever useful? Anything else that could be worth breaking out?

>>2602425
cognitive behavorial therapy?

>>2603454
>For really fast suff maybe it's worth it.
Let's say you were making an arm for hospital patients, it picks up the TV remote instead of calling the nurse to do it. It's helpful to know if you missed steps, in case some fat fucker rolls out of bed and falls on it. Or maybe the remote is under a blanket, so it overvolts the steppers and lifts the blanket.
In this case, if you're using off the shelf components then it's great to have these bullshit features like PowerStep of CoolSkip(TM), but 3d printing is a controlled environment. There's no improvisation going on. If you're missing steps you're screwed anyway.
The fact is that servos have superseded steppers in applications where performance is important. Nothing's going to beat a $3 2209, and $10 nema stepper, in terms of utility per dollar. But an enthusiast printer like the one I'm building is already an overcomplicated POS. I'm not building it because it's simple. And a lot of mainstream printers do advertise the kinematics or the printing speed. The motion controller should be driving servos by doing spline fitting on the toolpath -- no step/dir. It's objectively the correct decision, the hardware exists, so why are we instead consuming irrelevant bullshit? I don't care if they tuned the comparators for three cent capacitors instead of the one cent ones.

>>2603534
Have you considered the closed-loop conversions that exist for off-the-shelf steppers, like those that are popular for Voron builds?
The Servo042 from MKS, S42 from BTT, both based on nano_stepper by Misfittech (which MKS actually acknowledges, unlike BTT)
I don't have hands-on experience with them, only second hand "they're great!" but that doesn't mean shit.
How do you think these fit in with what you're suggesting? Is the issue more on the side of control, firmware level, rather than something inherently wrong with the servo/stepper options that are available? I like the idea of being able to convert a stepper to closed-loop easily, but it also just feels like a hacky way to DIY an almost-servo, fun for /diy/ but not a reasonable or practical thing.

>>2602795
Use a .6 nozzle and calibrate your printer mine fits like the toy eggs from the store

Thoughts on the creality ender 3 neo?
Is it worth it, has a lot of upgrades in comparison to the regular ender 3

>>2603665
Build your own.

>>2603675
That seems like a pain, I'm more interested in making stuff to print.

>>2603583
>closed-loop conversion
>licensed under creative commons
Yuck.
If you look at the brushless motors they use for robotics competitions, they've got integrated encoders, integrated PID controllers, stackable gearboxes, and the vendors make it really easy for the teams to get results. Meanwhile we're stuck with prehistoric industrial automation except with more rice. People are shaving grams off their toolheads, analyzing the frequency response, yet the motors are still stacked steel sheets with no torque at high speeds. It's like a car stuck in first gear.
>>2603665
>has a lot of upgrades
Yeah, that's one way of putting it. Let's say this year there's a demand for 5,000 dirt-cheap entry level printers. You visit 10 factories and one of them has 3,000 mainboards in a warehouse. Another factory can make 2,000 mainboards within three months. But the parts aren't compatible. Are you gonna settle for making 3,000 great entry-level printers? Fuck no, that attitude don't keep the mansion turning.
You buy the warehouse, then in three months you release the Xcalibur PRO NEO+ edition. Slap a color LCD on that fucker. Coupons, paid reviews, whatever it takes to manage inventory. They have fifteen printers in the same market space so they can cultivate relationships with fifteen supply chains.
>>2603680
>That seems like a plan, I'm more interested in [promoting my personal freedoms, expanding my individual liberties, and cultivating self-respect by participating in the open-source hardware movement].
excellent. great.

>>2603719
wtf, is the bed stationary?

TRONXY CUNT HERE
I'VE DECIDED TO START AN ANT FARM.
FOUND A FORMICARIUM DESIGN, IT WILL BE GREAT.

>>2603534
>The motion controller should be driving servos by doing spline fitting on the toolpath -- no step/dir
Doesn't step/dir (plus an IMU) just unload the "motion-controlling" part to the MCU or raspi that's controlling them?

>>2603665
I'd consider the Ender 3 Neo v2 if they have that locally, but you're going to be printing/buying upgrades to it either way. Otherwise I'd go for a Sovol of some sort, or other Prusa derivative.

Are there mods for the mighty 8k so i can have a larger vat? Kinda cray how small it is

>>2603719
>People are shaving grams off their toolheads, analyzing the frequency response, yet the motors are still stacked steel sheets with no torque at high speeds. It's like a car stuck in first gear.
Lol. FDM is inherently limited by plastic properties. No matter how good is mechanics, extruder or cooling you have, Printing faster than 30mm3/s, 5k mm/s2 and 100mm/s perimeter will ruin part quality.
Speedboat challenge is dumbest idea ever. More money more speed is not innovation. Simultaneous printing same model with 2+ independent extruders and nonplanar/5D printing is.

>>2603737
I FUCKING DID IT, I CAUGHT AN ANT QUEEN.

>>2603787
PRINTING FORMICARIUM NOW.
GONNA LET HER AND HER WORKERS WARM UP, THEN FEED THEM BREADCRUMBS AND SUGAR.

CURRENTLY IN A GLASS JAR.

>>2603719
>>That seems like a plan, I'm more interested in [promoting my personal freedoms, expanding my individual liberties, and cultivating self-respect by participating in the open-source hardware movement].
Yeah, making a fursuit head base and furry figurines

>>2603788
Based. I will await for more of your projects

should I upgrade my prusa mk3s+ to a 3.9 or should I just go with a p1p?

>>2603788
remember to give them silly names anon

>>2601721
why does your print look so messy? is your nozzle too hot and your z-level too high?

>>2603826
Likely both.
I think my extruder's retraction is also fucked up, because I get awful stringing on absolutely everything.
Rounded corners and generally over-sized dimensions probably mean over-extrusion in general.

>>2603815
You bet, fren, I'm still not sure what to call them, but I really want to think of something good.
I also want to do a coat of arms for them.
I'm thinking they'll either be Polish or Spanish.
I also managed to ID them pretty well, I THINK they're field ants!

>>2603807
Thank you, kind fren, I've got quite a few planned!
I'm certainly into ant-keeping right now, but with the BJD and car out of the way, I am going to start up on either a fully-printed mechanical clock / tourbillon, a lathe, or a construction set (something similar to Lego, perhaps.)

Then mayhaps a pewpew, but only in Minecraft and for Nerf bullets.

>>2603828
And of course I forget to attach pic.
Cheers again, gentlemen, and here's to our wonderful general.

Formicarium.
May be a bit too small for queen, might upsize slightly tonight, hope she fits for now.

>>2602417
So, how does it feel to get your nuts crushed by it?

>>2603665
I have a Neo its done the job so far. The only difference between the base Neo and V2 is the spring steel bed, the colour screen and that it requires less assembly. Its up to you if you think thats worth the extra money

I got mine for £160. I think the Neo V2 was around £250 at the time from the same site. Didn't seem worth the extra money

>>2603788
Unhinged TRONXY guy proving once again why he's my favourite poster

>>2603788
YOU HAVE TO CUM IN THE JAR ANON
GIVE HER YOUR SEED

>>2603752
>Sovol
The sovol sv06 plus seems pretty neat but it's still in preorder so that's a bit of a risk. The regular sv06 seems to mostly have the issue of bad fan placement and bad bearings on the linear rails, but since it's open source people have probably found fixes.

>>2603752
>step/dir (plus an IMU
I hadn't heard of an IMU being used in that way. Industrial machines use encoders on the linear motion hardware.
>>2603723
the very center of it will be, yeah
>>2603785
>Printing faster than 30mm3/s, 5k mm/s2 and 100mm/s perimeter will ruin part quality.
those three numbers basically sums up the entirety of what we know about fdm plastics, well done.
>nonplanar/5D printing
Why, to have better control over the layer lines?

>>2603928
>the very center of it will be, yeah
Do you mean it spins? The hell is that printer anyway? What I see I presume the XY-axis moves also on the z-axis?

>>2601407
is buying a 3 in 1 printer-laser-router machine a bad idea? i've looked online at what the router can do and it looks deplorable but the laser engraving turns out decent on a creality machine

I cannot believe this is one of the cheapest ways to network a printer that's not the creality botnet box

>>2603928
>Why, to have better control over the layer lines?
Fix layer adhesion, layer orientation and warping. Combine slicing with FEA. Remove supports and improve aesthetics. It would be literally be a new era in 3d printing. Hardware is already there, but slicer developers need a huge kick in the butt.
>>2603945
You could easily strap a laser toolhead on any 3d printer. It will engrave ang cut cardboard, with air assist it would slowly cut 3mm wood or plastics. Also you could strap a small 775 spindle for cutting foam. But if you need anything more get a specialized machine.
>>2603962
Klipper works just fine within a VM. Or it could be installed on an old android tv box or phone.

>>2603962
do we not like pi's anymore?
https://shop.mchobby.be/en/pi-zero-12wwh/1892-raspberry-pi-zero-w-with-header-v11-3232100018921.html

>>2603723
It's a 2D printer, anon, DYOR.

>>2603885
I AM A COMMITTED MAN, ANON.

>>2603882
HEY BUDDY

IT IS DONE.
ANTS MIGRATED.

>>2603976
Stole the tubing from my aquarium, bottle is from ear plug pack.
Origami paper I had left over for the cover, hot glue for the PLUG.

>>2603970
>Klipper works just fine within a VM. Or it could be installed on an old android tv box or phone.
Don't really have one of those laying around.
I did try one time just running octoprint on my NAS but It required using a USB extension and it never had a reliable connection. Using an actual PC I feel would also just be less hassle.

>>2603971
Zero w is ironically more expensive in the states than the thin client

>>2603977

>>2603980
The clear plastic is from a delicious tea cake I happen to have eaten a few days ago.
Total cost of set-up is about $0.70 of PLA, $0.05 of cake packaging, $0.02 of origami paper, and $0.01 of hot glue.

>>2601638
Post the fucking doll faggot

>>2603928
I think IMUs are common on high-speed printers for motion tuning, am I wrong? Or at least 3-axis accelerometers, not sure if the gyro is worth much.

>Chitubox's hole digger's depth option vanished
>Uninstalling doesn't do anything
Why the fuck does this happen?

STUPID bloody ant queen won't go into her STUPID damned nest box.
I finally got here in there by making a little paper funnel and, er, "dropping" her into it, somewhat, so she goes into the nest, and she did - seems to be pretty happy with it, but I feel terrible for accidentally dropping her on the glass table / off of papers a few times.

I think ants are okay with some falls - the paper is just very springy, and I accidentally bent it, which launched her into the wall of the jar - not very hard, mind you, and she went right on with her business digging a hole, but I'm now quite upset.
I hope she's alright. :(

>>2604009
It just identifies resonant frequencies and avoids those movements; you don't leave it on normally.
>>2603970
>It would be literally be a new era in 3d printing.
Yeah, it would. There is such things as CNC tape laying machines, thermwood lsam, etc., but as consumer/hobbyist FDM encompasses more techniques, it will only benefit us in terms of what we can create.
>>2603933
>Do you mean it spins?
That's exactly right anon, the build surface is mounted onto a wheeled track and spins round and round, in much the same way as a microwave oven. That way I can print out gay little heart shapes and watch them spin around like a kaleidoscope.
>The hell is that printer anyway?
It's based on a Czech design with double gantries, double pulleys, and repeating digits. In fact u shuld czech' this du35l3dg3t !!11right now, mothfucker 1^ ^ ^ ^ [)U3S G37 @222222eleven
>z steppers try to move in both directions at once
>spi comms initialized incorrectly
>extruder is the only one I got correct
>tfw
Fuck this shit, fuck you all. I'm taking a nap and then I'm deleting my 9gag account from the entire web.

>>2603083
It's great, wish they'd make a big one. Didn't even bother to finish my voron because of how capable the x1c is. And it's fairly serviceable, especially the hotend considering how cheap it is. You can just buy the complete assemblies for each nozzle. The only thing I don't like is USB-C on the toolhead. The first cable already got permanently loose, probably from the vibrations, so I had to get a replacement. I guess the hotend could technically be better too, I've heard it struggles with flowrate at 0.8mm, but that size is already outside of normal use anyway.

>>2604039
>It just identifies resonant frequencies and avoids those movements; you don't leave it on normally.
Also could be used as a self check routine. Fucked up linear rails, loose beltsб screws, unstable desks will affect the resonance chart.

>>2604039
I think I see seven drivers, I'm guessing just one stepper each for X and Y, but how many for Z? Doesn't look like a 3-Z system, though I guess you could have one Z powering all four belts, with two extra steppers moving cams for Z shifting.

>>2604069
Could also detect stalls and maybe even use inertial navigation to figure out how many steps were skipped.

>>2604071
>detect stalls
Not gonna happen. For that you will need at least a 2$ hall based angle sensor and a magnet on motors shafts. It could detect errors above 1/8 step.
Similar to MKS SERVO42B

>>2604039
mind sharing the filament you are using for the stealthburner anon?

My printer seems to be slanting as it goes up in layers. Any idea what causes that and how to fix it?

>>2604071
It's called a "Voron", google it, they're very popular.
This is a lovely example of a Voron 2.4, or something akin to it.

>>2603719
>They have fifteen printers in the same market space so they can cultivate relationships with fifteen supply chains.

>>2603018
>they currently sell the K1, K1 Max, Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 5 S1, Ender 5 Plus, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 7, Ender 6, Ender 2 Pro, CP-01, CR-X Pro, CR-10S Pro V2, CR-6 Max, CR-30, CR-10 Smart, CR-6 SE, CR-10 Smart Pro, CR-M4, Sermoon D3, Sermoon V1, Sermoon V1 Pro, Sermoon D1, CR-5 Pro_H, CR-200B, CR-200B Pro, CR-5 Pro, CR-3040 Pro, CR-5060.

Well, shit.

>>2604103
>voron 2.4
Oh so it's 4 Z steppers. But he said he's building a spinning build plate for a 4th axis, so that would require 8 steppers. But now that I look closer I think he's trolling and I'm retarded. That's a square build plate and would interfere with a bunch of shit.

>>2603971
I think the Zero W is a bit weak for it, get the 3A+ instead.
Good availability according to rpilocator.net

>>2604021
WHAT ABOUT FRESH AIR FOR THE QUEEN?

>>2603150
>>2601664
It's purely for artists who want to make parts that look engineered, but are specifically not for engineering (so for video game assets and stuff like that)

They brag about it using a parasolid kernel but whoever makes a similar software with an implicit modeling kernel will blow them the fuck out.

Printing a Hadley scope at/for work. Bless the guy who designed this for understanding model optimization for printing.

>>2601685
Negro, what the fuck are you doing?

Think I'm gonna go for the elegoo Neptune 3 max

What material would you all recommend for printing a chair or stool able to support human weight?

>>2604337
Some kind of plastic probably.
Getting strength enough to hold a person, easy as fuck, use whatever. PLA, ABS, ASA, PETG, Nylon, PC, TPU, doesn't matter.
You need to consider the failure mode and how it could fail if it ever does.
Sit back and say, "if 720lb Sasha walks in and stands on this, how will it break?"
Is it just gonna sink to the floor and collapse, or will it shatter and stick a couple inches of jagged plastic through Sasha's ankle?
ABS and ASA are extremely ductile, they like to bend and stretch and fuck off, but it's a bitch to "shatter" anything made from them, that'd be my go to if I was half-assing this.

>>2604337 ABS. Cheap, rigid, wont melt on the sun, could be acetone welded.

>>2604349
>wont melt on the sun
ABS degrades with UV.
If it's going outside it's the only reason I'd genuinely want ASA over ABS.

>>2604337
>chair or stool able to support human weight?
American or asian?

>>2604347
>>2604361
Swedish, I'm going to replace one of the stools in our kitchen to see how long it takes for someone to notice.
To make it a bit easier for them to notice I'm going with esun estar pla galaxy black.
They wont know about me having a printer so it should be quite the surprise.
>>2604349
Was gonna go as cheap as possible first but glowy seems like more fun.

>>2604373
think about it reasonably. people might get hurt if you fuck up either the design or the printing.

>>2604377
I have enough weights in my room to stack on top to make sure it's safe for people.
I'm pretty sure they will notice before using it though since it glows.

>>2604384
Do account for people(swedes) are a more dynamic load than weights. Also the way 3d printed parts fail catastrophically. people(swedes) might get hurt the moment a tiny crack develops.

>>2604388
I will make sure it gets noticed before anything heavier than a cat stands on it.
It rarely gets used by anyone other than the cat which is why i feel comfortable with doing this.
Might just place it right before my dad goes to work so he'll see the glow first thing.
You are a good person for bringing it up though, which is rare for this website, thanks.

Had an accident while painting this dragon's eye...

>>2604391
>>2604347
>Sit back and say, "if 720lb Sasha walks in and stands on this, how will it break?"

Also, glow in the dark materials are abrasive and will wear heavily on your extruder components and nozzle. It's normal to use a hardened steel or other abrasive-resistant nozzle when using glow in the dark material, otherwise you can destroy several brass nozzles with a single roll of glow-in-the-dark filament depending the brand.

Given your project, I HIGHLY recommend ABS or ASA, it'll be much safer that most other options.
https://www.amazon.com/OVERTURE-Printer-Filament-Glow-Green/dp/B09D835W23
That's what I'd use if I wanted to print a glow-in-the-dark stool that I'd trust to hold old fat crippled ass.

>>2604396
To be clear, it's because I'd trust that it'd fail by bending and collapsing into a flatted heap, rather than snapping/shattering, stabbing into my feet while I fall face first onto the tile and smack my skull against the counter, dying alone in the kitchen, another victim of microplastics.

>>2604396
>>2604398
If you have one in black I'll switch, mostly went with the pla one because it was the only one they had at the place i was already ordering other stuff.
Nvm I'll look around. Damn you for making me play it safe.

>>2604395
it was going to happen anyways.
layers tend to wick away thin paints.

>>2604403
Exerting more caution when making a footstool than faggots do printing Glock frames in Silk-Glitter-Matte PLA.
Proud of you, Anon.

>>2604405
To be fair the boom is in the barrel and the worse thing that can happen is the slide hitting your arm.

Plastic splinters in someone else's ass is a bigger issue IMO.

>>2604415
Your arm isn't what's behind the slide when you're shooting a pistol, euroanon.

>>2604419
forces are not the same, you imbecile.

>>2604405
Anon, there's no black glow in the dark ABS. At least none that google wants to show me.

Support fails... Stringing brings it back....

>>2604404
What type of paint would you recommend?

>>2604444
checked.
frankly, I have no easy solution. Only time I was able to get a decent painting (and I only even do things like painting in embossed writing for contrast) has been with acrylic paints.

>>2604434
>nature

>>2604432
Black and Glow don't go together.
Glow needs light to get in and out, black stops either.
There are some dark blue and purple glow filaments with glowing glitter and stuff in them, they fucking suck though, don't bother.

Start with black:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DKQR8HD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DKPYYBP
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DCQ972K

Then, paint it with a layer of transparent/clear glow-in-the-dark paint.
Most "clear" glow paint tends to be a slightly milky translucent white, that's the trade-off. The clearer it is, usually the less glow pigment there is.
You can add more, more layers, get brighter and better glow out of it, but it'll look more and milk like there's a thin layer of semen painted over the whole thing.
Glow applied over black will always be less bright than it would be over white or another lighter color, those bright colors reflect a lot of light back through the glowing pigment, whereas the black does not.

Black and Glow don't go together, fabric is about the only place you can really pull it off well, and that requires textiles made from scratch to glow, you don't want to add glow to black fabric.
Could probably do a black and glow filament co-extrusion, that'd be closer to how it's done with fabrics, but not something most people would do at home. I should try that.

>>2604456
There's black glow in the dark PLA, but maybe there's some other reason why the ABS can't be done the same way.

>>2604476
ABS usually an opaque material. There is transparent ABS, but it's uncommon, and extremely uncommon in filament.
Natural PLA on the other hand is very nearly transparent to begin with.
Opaque materials don't work well for mixing glow pigment directly into, because they'll be blocking light from penetrating into or out from the glowing pigments mixed into it.
That's why it's not hard to find glow-in-the-dark PLA and PETG, but it's much less common to find it in other materials unless they're stark-white and at least somewhat translucent.

Glow-in-the-dark Black PLA works because they add very, very little of a distinctly black pigment.
Print a lightly tinted PLA like that very thin, and you can still see straight through it despite the dark pigment.
That's why it works with the glow pigments, there's still a lot of light getting in and out of the material.
However, black and other dark colors fucking SUCK as glow-in-the-dark materials.
Sometimes glow-in-the-dark glitter and shit is added to them to enhance the effect, but it's trash, truly.
Black and Glow don't go together.

>>2604476
>black glow in the dark PLA
link?

>>2604481
Huh, i see. You know a lot about this stuff.
>>2604482
Estar PLA galaxy black esun
Glow in the dark with sparkles

>>2604492
>Estar PLA galaxy black esun
Perfect example, in their own photos you can see that it prints a translucent dark gray, nearly black where it's thick enough. Very, very little pigment to let as much light through as possible. Small prints would be distinctly gray, anything with a nice thick cross-section should be good and black though.
Large glowing pigment particles/glitter added to enhance the effect as much as possible.
All of the promotional photos of it glowing though are complete bullshit, the ones that aren't photoshopped are photos of their green glitter-filled glow PLA, fucking chinks.
I've only found one photo of the actual Galaxy Black glowing and it was so overexposed to increase the brightness of the glow you couldn't make out what the model was.

>>2604434
don't you think you might need a bit more retraction, or that you're too hot?

>>2604538
What, and lose the Support Do-Over feature?

>>2604499
>I've only found one photo of the actual Galaxy Black glowing and it was so overexposed to increase the brightness of the glow you couldn't make out what the model was.
Sad, will look into it.

>>2604298
Post images from this if you get a chance, I'm really interested in building a scope like that.

>>2604640
Sure thing, I want to image the Pleiades but I'm not sure if it's dark enough in the city for that. Jupiter should be easy and the designer says this scope can resolve cloud banding, so we'll see. I think I'll have it built this week or the next.

>>2604651
Even seeing cloud banding would be amazing.

Just bought a second hand Ender 3 v2 and haven't been able to get it to print yet. It won't extrude at all during the print and I let it run for a half hour to see if it would. I can force the filament through but that's it. I think the driver just isn't gripping on to the filament, should I try switching it to direct drive?

So I'm finally amassing enough filament spools where I can't print things fast enough to use the spools before they absorb moisture.
Anyone got any recommendations for one of those dehydrators I can use before I start printing?

>>2604782
Just print them wet, who cares? Unless you're using some specialty stuff PLA will print fine soaked.

>>2604754
Are your temperatures high enough to print the material you're using? Perhaps you need PID tuning because the nozzle isn't properly heated. If you're FORCING it through that may explain it, but if its just you being hyperbolic about the force needed then yeah I'd check the extruder gears

>>2604784
Unfortunately I don't like stringing and shit layer adhesion since I print for my work now as well. PETG and PLA+ and ABS/ASA soon

>>2604754
>>2604787
Oh I should add that you may just have a clogged up nozzle. There may have been a gap between the nozzle and the PTFE tube which had some plastic build up which won't properly liquify. I had this exact issue even with my microswiss hotend because I didn't tighten the nozzle all the way to the heat block.
I would recommend checking PID tuning, heating the nozzle, then disassembling the entire hotend to check for any buildup. Basically just do a full disassemble of the hotend looking for anything blocking the way. Take a torch to the nozzle even.
Take extra care that the area I highlighted in yellow/red are clear of any plastic

>>2604787
>>2604792
If the hot end is heated to the temp range of my filament then I can kinda slowly guide it through and it will come out the other end but when it runs it won't. I'll Check out the PID and maybe I'll disassemble it today if I get a chance, thanks.

>>2604754
I recommend to try tightening the filament feed gear tension first.
On the off chance, are you possibly using a wrong-diameter filament (undersized?)
Changing to direct drive probably won't fix it just by virtue of it being direct drive.

What could be wrong with x axis? It is a stock Flyingbear Reborn 2

>>2604901
Not sure what you mean by something being wrong here? Looks like thats just your resonance frequencies that it is countering

>>2604901
Don't see anything unusual in your graphs there.
Are you having an issue? Or is there something in these results that you think could be improved/corrected?

>>2604901
So is it just that one of your tests on the x-axis came up fucky? Because it looks like 2 out of 3 were great.
Does this happen consistently? Have you run these tests again?
This could be a loose screw, a fan, your fucking cat, someone somewhere sneezing, those graphs don't mean shit without some context.

>>2604538
Retraction is on.
Normally print this PLA at 180 but really wanted the layer adhesion and fill.

The fuck is going on here. It's set to the right voltage (115V) and this BS starts appearing an hour into a print

>>2604964
you shorted out the thermistors anon, those pins on the board are fried now

>>2604977
How often does this shit need to be replaced?

>>2604990
you have to replace the whole mainboard anon, next time buy one with a protection circuit

>>2601407
3d printed a base for my mate cuia. yes I am brown.
used openscad

>>2605062
its a drink where you pour hot water on a pile of mate inside a porongo like thing. mine had a round base so I could not use it while working on a desk with both hands.

>>2604754
if its a used ender 3, then first thing you need to do is check the extruder tensioning arm, those things were made from shitty plastic for years and crack after a few hours of printing.

luckily any mk8 extruder is a drop in item, and you can get them for like, $8 from most placed.

>>2604911 Most of the time on a good printers i have seen a graphs similar to y axis. One or two resonant peaks with very small noise in between. Recommended shapers were MZV or even ZV.
But here according to the measurements x axis is rattling in a very broad frequency range, even a 2hump filter cant deal with it.
>>2604916 Checked it 3 times with the same result. Toolhead fans are off.

>>2605063
Oh, good. I thought you were one of those pathetic weed smokers from the first pic.

fuck
crimping
jst
pins

that is all

>>2605164
Which?
PH sucks, took me an hour to do my first connector.
SM is idiot-proof. I haven't fucked one up yet.
XH is in between.
the results are ok, just time consuming especially without experience, because you don't know what's gonna work and what will cause you to waste 10 mins and then have to redo it anyway. Plus, the hobbyist tools are harder to use because you have to align it correctly (not smush locking tabs) and you have to know what size to use which changes based on the wire gauge.

>>2605164
>>2605165
What tools are you guys using? I got a pack of XH and PH recently, but usually just use needlenose pliers for crimping Dupont jumpers. I have a crimping tool that takes dies, is it worth getting the dies for JSTs?

>>2605165
>PH sucks, took me an hour to do my first connector.
>SM is idiot-proof. I haven't fucked one up yet.
>XH is in between.
now do this one

>>2605201
>needlenose pliers
Works just fine for modding or one time build. Just dont forget to tin cable ends first, and touch it with soldering iron later.

>>2605215
>tin cable ends first
Eh, I'd only do that if I could be sure the amount of solder was minimal. Solder deforms over time, so your joints will get looser. If it's oxidation you're worried about, you should be using tin plated cable anyhow.

>>2605215
>>2605228
Oh you meant to solder the connector onto the wire. Disregard my earlier post.

>>2605215
>tin cable ends first
is that really even necessary?

>tfw gonna move 1k miles to the middle of the amazon
>no easy way to go by car
>can't fit all my electronic crap in the plane
Selling everything. feels bad bros

Printing a large thing with gyroid infill and I'm starting to think the constant shaking is only going to loosen things on my printer and cause quality issues

>>2605063
You pour hot stuff in your printed part? PLA? You scare me. Also printed parts generally not advised to use as food imbibing utensils. There is micro, layer gaps, where bacteria gets in and it's sort of unsanitary. Also printed parts barely can be called "clean", you never know what additives put in filament manufacturer to make t colorful and other properties, it could be lead, arsenic, you name it. So, as general items, OK, even good, but eating, drinking from that? Big no for me, especially hot things. Hot things can make mold and bacteria in gaps grow like crazy and/or release toxic stuff, fumes and other additives to your food and drink. So I not advise to do so, but hey, it's your life, so you decide on given information. Plastics in most cases NOT safe for food, even if labeled so and FDM 3D plastics even worse, because you don't know what concoction they put inside to make it bright red and soft/rigid/etc. So for me, as rule of thumb, don't put it in the mouth, don't breath fumes, pleasant or not, don't give for kids and pets.

>>2605250
It's not necessary, but it is nice to have the inner cable end stay together while you mess with it.

Getting the supports of these fuckers is a nightmare

>>2605303
Try using slicer. It have nice supports and they came of easy.

>>2605310
I tried grid and snug supports in prusaslider. Grid was a little better than snug but still a pain in the arse

>>2605311
Have you tried organic yet

>>2605313
Last time I used organic supports on such a small thing it got binned

>>2605250 With proper crimping tool it is not. But with ghetto needlepliers hack it is necessary for a reliable connection. Tinning itself is not necessary, but it is easier to do it first, then crimp and after that touch it with solder iron without adding any more flux or solder.

new kid on the block

>> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kokonisota3dprinter/kokoni-sota-3d-printer

Check out the review shill, look at the products shill on yt. The printed stuff has layer shifting, extrusion issues. Basically looks like trash. Alsocheck out Mr. T.R. CHEN/ X. CHEN on the board. Their faces look eerily AI generated.

>>2605346
What's special about this versus the other 99+ printers on Kickstarter at any given time?
Who the fuck cares what the Chinks are threatening to sell to us? You could've shared an interesting one at least.
It's an upside-down printer with a glass bed and closed-loop steppers, nothing new or interesting at all in this overpriced piece of shit.
Like most kickstarters it's just to get paid for your first units long before they're shipped, that's why so many kickstarter projects are just random Chink products that are already available on Aliexpress. It's a scam to get people paying for products that the sellers can then ship whenever the hell they feel like it, if at all.

May as well post pics of your morning shit laid out in a clean street.

>>2605346
There's black tape covering numerous components in the photos and videos, including in areas where it is clearly applied over several other fasteners and components; nothing like peeling back black vinyl trying to find screwheads!
The frame looks like thin stamped steel sheets, but it's all hidden in their pretty case so you can't see that it has the cheap folded steel construction of a 10 year old Malyan M150.
They're already distributing models through their print service that aren't theirs, and noting the creator as "Kokoni 3D Official", so like all Chink companies they're thieves.
They did a kickstarter for their last shitbox printer, which turned out to be an insanely overpriced piece of garbage attached to cloud services that don't work properly and are filled with stolen work.

It's a cash grab, not a 3D printer. More time and effort will be put into marketing than will ever be put into the products.
There's a shitty new scam like this daily, at any time you can just hop on Kickstarter and find great big heaps of garbage, lies, and scams.

>>2605346
>open video
>see nigger
>close video

>>2605371
>Nigger shills Xiaomi for a living
>Gets chosen by company made up of former Xiaomi employees to shill their 3D printer
Wow like what are the odds right?

Fucking rice salesmen.

>>2605294
you're retarded and illiterate

Kind of dumb question here, but I was wondering how to get started with making functional designs? In particular I have something i want to make that will involve moving parts, but I've never worked with motors etc before. How do I even begin working out measurements etc? To be more specific, I want to feed objects that are about 3.5g each and roughly the same size onto a tray of sorts, use a sensor to detect the color of each object, and then feed them into different output locations. I've seen a lot of videos online that do this for skittles etc, but I was interested in making a specific design that suits my exact requirements. Any pointers on where to even start with something of this nature? I know fusion360 is probably my best bet, but besides that I'm honestly entirely out of my depth. I have experience with 3D printing but not 3D design

>>2605443
No one here designs their own shit

>>2605459
Its really just the moving parts that I'm very unsure of. Like do people typically design their model first and then look for motors that will work with it? Or do they start off with say xyz servos and design around that?

For only $15, you too can go to a live action Prusa commercial in the gayest place on earth!

>>2605294
was this written by chatgpt? bro the cup tradionally is a gourd, so I has a round base, you can't put it in a table. I printed a base for it. Usually they sell ones made out of leather or wood, but I chose to print it to learn how to use openscad.

>>2605213
>>2605164
>>2605165
Shit. You reminded me I should rewire two printers. JST XH connectors.
Any advice?
Can it be done with the cheapest possible crimping tool, or should I buy special tool?

>>2605529
Cheaper tools can suck to use, nicer ones can make up their price in quality of life, but you don't have to break the bank.
IWISS IWS-2820: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WNZ9FW
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801107160379.html
(iCrimp is their new marketing name, it's still IWISS)

Avoid some of the shittier clones of other crimpers, like these: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800740424354.html
That style is totally fine, if they're good, but the cheap ones with shit tolerances can be trash, not worth the gamble when good crimpers are cheap.
If you want a fancier tool, buy the real deal, it's still cheap and Chinese anyway so there's no excuse: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089J6HM51/
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Hand-Crimping-Tools/1100416797_256342030.html?SearchText=jst

Keep in mind there are different sizes and whatnot and you don't want to accidentally buy the 2412m for example which would be useless for the little JST XH pins.

>>2605529
Buy connectors with pigtails and some soldering heatshrinks. 1000x easier and faster to do than crimping your own shit.

>>2605558
Thanks.
There might also be some jst sm and "dupont" connectors. Are these good for all of them?
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089J6HM51/
Would be better to buy some multi jaw kit? so that I would be covered for all possible connectors?
I haven't checked jet into details which connectors and wires I need to buy. I need to open the printers and see what's what.
>>2605563
I did that to fix some cable breaks. I am at the point that most of cables in drag chain are broken, and replacement cables are tied outside the drag chain.I was fixing them slowly through time one by one. Now it's a mess.
Soldered joints and crimps won't fit inside drag chain. I want to do some maintenance on those printers and clean up/replace the whole wiring loom.

Where would I look if I wanted to find STLs for prop guns? I wanted to print a Mauser HSC for cosplay but there aren't any results on Google.

>>2605581
Thingyverse, Cults, Printables etc

I've had this issue with my printer since I've assembled it. I've changed the nozzle temperature, leveled the bed in different ways and I've made sure the nozzle isn't clogged. Anyone else had a similar issue?

Is joining 3d printer filament hard? What's the easiest way to do it

>>2605572
That set you linked will handle practically everything common in this size range, no problem with any JST XH, SM, or Dupont connectors.
With the "multi-jaw" kits you're more likely to lose the second set before you ever need it, but it *is* nice to know the jaws are replaceable if you ever fuck one up somehow.
Plus, you're already set up if you do take on larger connectors for heavier gauge wires. Given the price, if you're considering it, just go for it.

Most of what you deal with in a printer is small, 20+ AWG, so the SN-58B might not be a good choice, the small-jaw equivalent is the SN-28B: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OMM4YUY

>>2605601
So what's the issue? You didn't say what the issue was.
I see filament coming out of a hotend.

>>2605605
Way harder than it has any right to be. There are tools to help, but honestly they fucking suck, highly recommend avoiding these:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804902223073.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XW8BFR4/
Don't be fooled by overpriced as fuck clamp-style ones either, they're just as bad: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805164742269.html
People often want to use up the tails from their spools, but that's the tightest-wound part to begin with, combine a bunch together with brittle joints and you're in for a shitty printing experience.
Joining filament sucks.

>>2605639
The filament will pile up like spaghetti and it's not molten at all.

>>2605644
Filament/Printer/Nozzle Temp

>>2605650
>Filament/Printer/Nozzle Temp
PLA +, Ender 3 V2, 220c

>>2605639
>Joining filament sucks
Damn I thought it would be easier. I might still try melting the ends of two on my stove and connecting it. Or super gluing then together after cutting the ends at an angle. I've been on this current roll for so long I can't remember how to switch

>>2605651
What filament is it *specifically*, PLA+ is just a marketing thing, what brand is it? Some may need a nozzle temp of 230+, but it's not common.
The filament has nearly 20x the area of a 0.4mm nozzle aperture, so if it's coming out of the nozzle, it's definitely molten.

When you try to print, is it failing to stick to the bed? Cleaned your bed with alcohol? Printing the first layer nice and slow?
Nozzle close enough to the bed to nicely squish the filament? What's your first layer line width?
230C, 65C CLEAN bed, 10mm/s first layer, 0.7mm line width at 0.24mm layer height assuming a 0.4mm nozzle, it WILL stick if you're the right distance from the bed.

>>2605657
polymaker, even with the stock filament it came with it's also had this issue. It hasn't stuck to the bed now that I think about it and as for the bed being clean it's dusty because I haven't used it since I've done my first test.

>>2604964
Yu Tu Lo

>>2605659
Polymaker produces 3 "PLA+" type products: PolyTerra PLA+, PolyLite PLA Pro, and PolyMax PLA.
No winning amirite?

So seriously, that 220C should be fine, a 60C bed *should* be fine but 65C is more finer, clean the bed well before continuing.
Isopropyl/Rubbing Alcohol, 70% or higher, perfect for cleaning the bed. If it's ever truly filthy, hot water and Dawn/Ajax/Fairy.
Fingerprints are the biggest enemy, make a point of touching the bed surface as little as possible when you're using the printer, clean fingerprints right away so you don't have to worry about it.
If you're already slicing prints, great, make your first layer extra wide (0.7mm or 175% line width), and slow AF (10mm/s), this doesn't have to be permanent but can make troubleshooting a LOT easier.
If you're still not past using what's preloaded on the SD card, that's fine too, those prints are usually very "easy" and have very conservative settings.
Getting the first layer height just right goes hand-in-hand with bed leveling, too close or too far from the bed can cause a whole litany of issues, some more less obvious than others.

If you're the type, watch this Aussie, he covers this all quite well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ze36SX1xzOE

>>2605662
I've got PolyLite PLA Pro I think. Thanks for the advice m8 I've had this setup for about a year now and haven't been able to use it. All the models I've been trying to print are the default ones which are found in original SD card.

>>2604964
New nozzle and readjusting the thermistor fixed this right up

>>2605672
Good jorb anon.

>>2602795
I have made them with a .4N and .2H on a calibrated ender3 and it goes together just like the ones from the store.

>>2601407
What can I do about a horizontal warping occurring after a certain height on every print on my saturn even through releveling the printer, seems like no matter how many times I do it and how carefully I pull the magnet sheet off the plate it still has warping occurring if a print is taller than 3ish inches, even if I make a point to relevel before starting the next one

>>2605443
Would you care to elaborate with a sketch of what you're trying to achieve or as video of said skittle sorter thing. There are tons of mechanisms for said actions and it's too broad of a topic to properly instruct based on some "Uhh like a sort of thing"-introduction.

>>2605346
>>2605357
>>2605364
I've been inspired, I'mma take a pair of ebay unrepaired ender 3s and flip 'em on they heads.
Chinks got nothing on this rig.

>>2605511
Never seen this thing so I assumed you printed cup. So it's OK then. I still remember guy who printed egg cooker part. He was basically eating whatever was in filament, because egg shell porous and that chemistry definitely got in the egg. So, my bad, for misinterpreting situation. BTW, that egg cooker part failed, thus saving this guy from cancer or whatever he could got from that plastic. Also haw friend whom used to make all sorts of stuff from lead, he was breathing that shit and even then I thought it's NOT healthy. 20 years later, he has massive health issues. Maybe not related to lead, maybe is.

>>2605773
Is this a joke? There's no connection between the lead screws and the bed, nor anything driving the X/Y carriage.

Is there even a point to inverted printer designs?

>>2605806
It's not complete, anon, it's just the basic components from the Ender 3s laid out as an inverted ham-beast printer.
Inverted printers are 98% meme, 2% low center of gravity for the rapidly moving parts, they are NOT worth it.

>>2605830
>98% meme
>NOT worth it
You got that backwards, if it's 95% may-may then it's 98% worth it.
>>2605529
>Any advice?
I bought PA-20s and PA-09s. All these universal crimpers require more skill to use because you have to crimp in the right place and use the right size. I used the Engineer ones at the makerspace so I just went with those.
I wasted a lot of time doing dumb shit like crimping the same end twice, but once I have more practice I don't expect it to be a problem. Soldering splices don't flex so it's not really an alternative.