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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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2588531 No.2588531 [Reply] [Original]

Stupid questions that don't deserve their own thread.

Ask your "stupid" questions here! Or come answer some questions if you feel like it.

>Previous thread
>>2579214

>> No.2588534

>>2588273
Just wait two weeks for the replacement. Glue can come apart. You might also end up gluing the o-ring down which would make everything worse. You can also put a plastic bag over it until the parts arrive. Hold the bag down with tape and rubber bands.

>>2588393
Bleach, baking soda, scrubbing, soap, and more scrubbing in that order. Wear gloves. Then get a scraper and remove the old caulk carefully. Removing caulk: https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-remove-caulk/

>> No.2588577

Why was Matthias Wandel in Qingdao, China, in May 2005?

>> No.2588611

>>2588531
How long does it take for oil based stains to stop feeling oily? Answer my bastarding question you we fanys.

>> No.2588612

>>2588577
For the culture.

>> No.2588623

>>2588531
How Manu rs232 signals can I shove in a cat3/no rating 25 pair cable? Gotta go like 50 feet from one rack to another. Just a bunch ofnold shot with serial console ports and the console switch is over there. It's a pain to run anything though so one cable sounds nicer than like 8 cat5s

>> No.2588648

Is it realistic to learn machining on your own? Or am I going to kill myself with it?
Friend has a lathe, from his dad and he doesn't use that part of the workshop at all, I think the manufacturer was Harrison, there's manuals and books for it + got a beginners book from the library.
Its gathering dust and I'd have free use of it and other stuff in there as long as I don't wreck anything and keep it tidy.
Haven't got anything to do at the moment, school starts in the autumn and got a part-time job so plenty of free time for now and might as well use it to learn something.

>> No.2588662

>>2588648
As long as you aren't an idiot, pretty easy. Just don't get complacent, a lathe will kill you in a split second if you do something even slightly dumb.

>> No.2588669

How do I fix leaking valve seats? Lapping doesn't do anything and getting a valve job isn't cost effective if I can buy the tools myself (which I'm trying to avoid if I can)
Can I use an old valve and drill chuck it with lapping compound to make it good?

>> No.2588670

>>2588662
Cheers, I'll take it slow. Its nice that youtube exists for this stuff but I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask here too.
Would be nice to get some projects done and maybe help friends/family, probably should learn how to weld too but one thing at a time.

>> No.2588698

So in regards to footers... Where do they move water to? They're around your foundation acting as a French drain right? That water has to be led to somewhere right? Where do footers lead off too?

>> No.2588699

>>2588698
I may have used the word footer incorrectly. I'm thinking of those French drain type things around your foundation.

>> No.2588708

>>2588669
>lapping doesn't do anything
What do you mean? You lap the valves until they're good. It can take ages if they're really worn but eventually you *will* create a good seat if you're doing the process and sanding enough. I got sore hands for days manually lapping the valves on my XJ, it really feels like it takes forever. Drill chuck method is fine if you're careful not to damage them.

Check it with a flashlight. Lap for a bit, clean off polishing compound, shine the flashlight from the inside and check for light leaks, rinse and repeat until it's done.

The only reason they would actually, totally fail to seal no matter how much you lapped them would be if you got the wrong valves, or if the head was warped beyond fucking recognition. Did you overheat the shit out of it?

>> No.2588713

>>2588708
It's been overheated yeah, but I don't think it's warped beyond recognition. I might try to get a straight edge and check I guess
I've been checking for leaks not with a light but with fuel/soapy water and compressed air
Anyways, I REALLY hope you're right about just lapping the shit out of it, but I have my doubts since all the videos told me that I basically need to get a valve job or a new head and lapping is just touch up work
it's the same engine too in your post (4.0)

>> No.2588718
File: 2.10 MB, 4160x3120, IMG_20220807_175220368.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2588718

>>2588713
Welcome to the nightmare, man. I burned up half my free time last summer working on my old XJ shitbox that has been through 300k miles of abuse and ended up with more problems than I started with.

But yeah use the flashlight method. Remember that the springs will be putting pressure on the valves to pull them in to the head, so actually the compressed air might be giving you a false reading by moving and unseating the valve a little. It's okay if you have to be pulling on it to create a good seal, because that's the conditions you will actually have in the engine.

Yeah, check it with a straightedge if you have to, even better is if you have a perfectly flat surface like a countertop or a nice table saw. Set it on the surface, turn the lights off and shine a flashlight under it to look for light leaks. Flashlight tests are your friend for ghetto engine repair

>> No.2588742

>>2588708
Lapping doesn't reliably make a seat of correct width (which matters). Valve jobs are cheap.

>>2588713
The videos are correct. That's why you should only do shit the right way and know what that is. Go to forums, not 4chan. This place is infested with morons when it comes to vehicles and welding for some reason.

>> No.2588754

>>2588611
>>2587141
>>2587451
>>2587707
answer my mother fucking question you rat bastards.

>> No.2588755

How could i make a locking folding table leg with 1" square tubing?

>> No.2588793

Can I use clean, not rusted, smooth steel tubing instead of rebar to anchor a cement and stone culvert or will the cement not stick?

>> No.2588802

>>2588754
I apologize that we weren't prompt in providing you assistance.

Oily feeling should be gone within 15 minutes or so. If it persists longer than that, you need to take corrective action immediately. Spray it down with brake cleaner (you can find at any automotive store) and scrub vigorously with a scouring pad. Repeat as needed. This will strip away the excess oily layer and leave you with a smooth even finish.

>> No.2588820

>>2588802
I forgive you. But I'm only giving you 3 stars, for while your sarcastic response was amusing, it still was not the answer.

>> No.2588827

>>2588820
That's what you get when you not only come on here asking us to spoonfeed your retarded ass with a question that could be answered by a simple Google search, but then when we didn't spoonfeed you you whined about it for two whole threads like the entitled prick that you are. Fuck you.

>> No.2588841

>>2588827
Ok buddy I'm gonna have to take 2 stars off your review for that one. Good luck with your 1 star yelp review, jerk.

>> No.2588893
File: 148 KB, 709x531, granbar-far.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2588893

I cut down some lumber on my property, it's Picea abies (spruce tree). I plan to use it as weight bearing construction pilars in some building projects. (it'll hold some roof up) My question is: how do I store it? When do I unbark it? How long do I need it to dry before I use it?
Also appreciate any pointers to based web recourses about this, there's too much shit out there. Ty.

>> No.2588897
File: 98 KB, 434x507, WRENCH.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2588897

>>2588531

>> No.2588920

>>2588893
Spruce is an extremely soft wood, I wouldn't use it for a support for anything that would kill you if it collapses. Debark it right away, split it, then keep it in a dry shaded area like a barn for at least a year, but maybe closer to 2 years.

>> No.2588972

>>2588742
It's because for a lot of us poorfags the choice is do it cheap or don't do it at all. Besides, it's a huge source of pride when you actually pull together a project and get a satisfactory result doing the job MacGyver-style. It might not be perfect, but you can make a world of improvement on a shitty old Jeep 4.0 by pulling the head, lapping the ever living shit out of the valves until you can't see the flashlight anymore, throwing a new head gasket in and slapping it back together.

Besides, XJ owners today are all morons, we bought the things from the last owner who was smart enough to know a lost cause when he saw one and cut his losses

>> No.2589007

Is there a difference between a boiler for a hydronic baseboard heating system and a boiler for a hydronic radiant under-floor heating system?

>> No.2589016

>>2588793
The texture on the rebar is used to help the steel hold in the concrete. It will still hold as long as you make sure concrete goes in the tube as well as around it. It just won't be as reinforced as it would be with rebar.

>>2589007
Not really. It's both in-floor heating. Just make sure the heater can handle the correct volume, temperature, and pressure for the space and you should be fine.

>> No.2589107

If I screw something zinc plated to some plain mild steel, will that cause galvanic corrosion?

>> No.2589124
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2589124

I want to put up a wall (with door) in my attic to create a room. per the pic, I'd like the heater to be inside the room, which means I need two walls in an L shape. how do I do this properly? the extent of my diy experience is just putting up shelves. how much space do I leave for a door + trim around the door? what's the correct way to frame this? do I use 2x4s or the metal frames? does the wall have to be aligned with the attic rafters so the 2x4s on top are anchored into studs?

>> No.2589133

>>2588972
Other choices include expending the energy to get the minor loot to do it right in the first place. Compulsive Presidential Engineering is not the only way to use ingenuity to save money, and the result lasts much longer such that the cost-effectiveness is worth it.

I go back to when they knurled piston skirts and the INSIDE of valve guides to get a few more miles out of them, but I make the effort to avoid it because my labor even when poor could generate enough to put high priority shit (transportation) first. Adding future problems out of autism wastes precious effort doing shit twice. I've done the Bon Ami piston ring seating trick too to mate used piston and rings to a different cylinder but not on a machine I cared about even slightly.

>> No.2589187

Trying to design a table that folds down from the wall over my bed. The table would be 4'x4'. It not only needs to fold out, but needs to pull out so that it is at the foot of the bed and not the head. I'm worried about the force applied on the "slides," that it might end up with too much weight and cause them to bend or break. Anyway, it's a project I wouldn't mind having some other's input on. If anyone has any ideas, I'd appreciate it

>> No.2589224
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2589224

Are these radiator hose clamps reusable? They only cost a few dollars. I'm trying to buy the hoses and have a friend do it.

>> No.2589257

>>2589224
They'll be fine as long as they aren't rusted.

>> No.2589283

>>2589133
>put transportation first
yeah, I have a boring ass Nissan mom car for that. Most of us XJfags don't rely on these things as our daily, but it's a fun project to try to keep it running and it's a pleasure to drive when it does work.

Modern cars lack any kind of character. They feel boring and plastic and even the "economy" cars today are loaded down with creature comforts and are a pain in the ass to work on because they are so complex. I'm not usually a luddite or a technology hater, but I hate how the the whole design philosophy of cars now is basically "fuck your DIY, bring it to a dealer if the slightest thing goes wrong, we made it purposely hard to service yourself"

>> No.2589285

>>2589224
Technically yes, but fuck those hose clamps and fuck you. Get proper hose clamps. It costs you like 50 cents and they last way longer and are easier to work on years down the road when everything is old and rusty.

>> No.2589286

>>2589224
Those things are extremely based. Not like the shitty aftermarket worm gear clamps everyone uses.
Wrap some electrical tape around the hose to prevent clamp dents

>> No.2589318

>>2589283
>Most of us XJfags don't rely on these things as our daily
i made the "mistake" of doing that (original guy who posted the question) and it worked out great for a couple years. it's only when it overheated and had leaks that i ignored that it became at all a burden
anyways, I'm ordering a valve cutting set for this head. hopefully can have it become a reliable daily again

>> No.2589326

>>2589318
I follow the doctrine of have 2 or 3 shitboxes at all times so you can drive the one that's least broken at any given time. It takes me a lot of time and money to fix them, but I've never made a car payment in my life and I enjoy the self-reliance aspect and building up the skills. That Nissan is the wife's car I can always drive in a pinch, I also have an old shitbox Ranger that is in a little better shape than the XJ is.

>overheated and had leaks that I ignored
Fuck, man. I blew up a Subaru that way. Lot of people don't understand that when the thermometer hits red it's not "you should take a look at it when you get a chance", it's "Your engine is already beyond fucked" and the real time to stop and investigate the issue is any time the needle creeps any higher than halfway on the gauge. That was an expensive lesson for me

>> No.2589328

Is cured bondo safe to be in contact with brake fluid?

>> No.2589334

>>2589224
they are reusable, but I would never reuse them. The first time the have to come off, I replace them with gear clamps. I've hated them ever since i let up pressure on on and it flew up so fast that it cut my eyelid

>> No.2589340

Am I wasting money like this?

the way I approach buying tools is I always buy some cheap knock off shit first. If I use that tool enough that it breaks, I cough up the extra 100 or 200 dollars for something reliable. is this actually a smart idea, or am I just wasting money because my shit tools will inevitably break at some point?

>> No.2589351

>>2589187
You sound like a faggot

>> No.2589354

>>2589328
No, that's how you get nerve gas.

>> No.2589356

>>2589340
Sounds like a larp.

>> No.2589361

Bought a new house and the shed roof is uninsulated corrugated sheeting. During the winter the condensation got so bad it was like it was raining indoors. Tried expanding foam as a vaporiser barrier buts expensive and a pain in the ass to apply. Anyone got any ideas what I should use and how to stick it to the roof

>> No.2589379

>>2589356
why would I larp about buying black and decker shit?

>> No.2589429

>>2588577
He was working for RIM at the time. That may have had something to do with it.

>> No.2589433

>>2588534
>You might also end up gluing the o-ring down which would make everything worse
The O-ring has been fully removed as part of disassembling the doorbell, no risk of that. The doorbell is also currently not mounted, so no risk of weather exposure in the meantime.
Personally I'd be fine with ordering the part, but my parents are starting to get fed up with not having a doorbell and I'm not sure they'd be willing to wait two weeks.

>> No.2589434

If have a blower fan how can I wire up a light (led or otherwise) in line with this so it uses the same plug?

>> No.2589448

>>2589257
>>2589285
>>2589286
>>2589334
Car is already 25 years old. Rust doesn't exist here. I'll wear eye protection. Thanks for the answers.

>> No.2589462

>>2589379
Because mommy won't let you use the garage.

>> No.2589467

>>2589351
in what way. is this a positive thing or a negative thing? please, let me know so that I can accommodate your delicate sensibilities.

>> No.2589506

>>2589467
>I can accommodate your delicate sensibilities.
I appreciate that, that's very kind of a stranger. I mean it negatively, I'm saying your mother won't let you use her garage for your wood working projects so you have to pretend to be engaged in the hobby.

>> No.2589515

>>2588713
Lapping is touch up work. A machine shop will use cutting tools to get the fit 98% of the way there, and then lap the rest. Lapping is just what it is, effort and time-wise, depending on the state of the head.
BTW, using an old valve is a really, really, really dumb idea. You use the valve that's going to be used in that hole, period. Using an old valve that won't be used in the engine would create more problems than exist now.
You can also use machinist's dye or marker to dry fit the valve, to see where the gaps are. That's what every shop I've ever been to does at the start of a valve job.

>> No.2589530

>>2588793
Cement doesn't "stick" to rebar, the ridges in the rebar create a grip in the surrounding concrete.
If you need to bond metal to concrete, they sell bonding agents for that. Not in my wheelhouse, just google it. Never used any, just know it exists.

>> No.2589543

>>2588920
Spruce is used for dimensional lumber in Europe, google shit before you post. Spruce is structurally similar to the soft woods used in framing in the US. Stop being dumb on the internet.
You know what they call dimensional lumber? SPF? You know what that stands for? SPRUCE -pine-fir.

>> No.2589552

>>2588893
>how do I store it?
Somewhere dry. Best, a garage, or barn. You can put it up on skids under tarps, but it will add significantly to the drying time.
>When do I unbark it?
As soon as possible. Bark will have bugs that will continue to eat your wood. It also traps moisture, see below.
>How long do I need it to dry before I use it?
When the moisture % drops to the right levels. Get a moisture meter off Amazon, they're about $25. If you're talking 6x6" beams, I'd plan on minimum a year. And, the moisture levels being in range - 6-8% is usually what you aim for, or you risk warping and shrinkage.

>> No.2589558

>>2589283
>"fuck your DIY, bring it to a dealer if the slightest thing goes wrong, we made it purposely hard to service yourself"
I recently helped a relative change the battery in her 2013 Ford Escape.

Holy. Fucking. Shit.

I figured, 5 minute job, tops. It's a fucking battery, right?

No.

You have two ways to do it - take off the wipers, and take apart the cowl under the dash, or take apart the air cleaner, and then wedge a hand and socket under the cowl, to get the tie down clamp and negative terminal off. And there's no room under the cowl at all.

It took an HOUR to replace the battery. The guy at the store told me, a lot of places won't touch that model, because it's such a pain in the ass. Ford would probably charge $500 - $200 for the battery, and $300 for labor.

>> No.2589560

Is soffit/fascia rot indicative of more serious water damage on a home?

>> No.2589579

>>2589506
My friend, I believe you are jumping to conclusions. You see, I merely like to plan ahead on projects that I'm unfamiliar with, so as not to waste time, materials, and money. It's purely economical. I suggest you try giving forethought to projects instead of jumping headfirst, you may very well save yourself a headache!

>> No.2589587

>>2589543
It being a dimensional lumber has absolutely nothing to do with the guys question that I was answering. Is your father a spruce tree, did I insult your family somehow? Spruce is great for many things, but it's very soft and gives under pressure very easily, making it dangerous to use as a support beam.

>> No.2589596

>>2589558
>I recently helped a relative change the battery in her 2013 Ford Escape.

It's not gotten any better on the later models, far as I can tell. My grandmother's 2019 Escape started showing a check engine light, so I had a look. OBD said it was an O2 sensor; the one between the exhaust and cat (might be pre cat, IDK). Easy?

Fuckin' nope. There's a heat shield shroud that's shaped to cover that part of the exhaust. And the put they fucking sensor ON TOP of the pipe, between the exhaust pipe and the shroud. There's barely enough room to remove the thing, much less actually get your hand and a wrench in there to get it out. And, remember this is a fucking O2 sensor, threaded into the hot exhaust pipe, not an 8mm bolt kept dry and clean. I'm, frankly, surprised I managed to get it out without either rounding it over or breaking it off. It took well over an hour to get this thing done. The borderline impossible task of routing the wire back to the connector on the harness wasn't even a large portion of that time, despite also being a pain in the ass.

Literally ALL THEY HAD TO DO TO FIX THIS was put the sensor on the SIDE of the exhaust. Moving the connector would also be nice, but it's whatever. Literally nothing changes during assembly. No additional cost is added. None beyond hiring a designer that isn't a fucking moron, at least.

It's really too bad my 96 Dakota was so poorly maintained and had a 4-cylinder engine that could barely move the frame. That thing was a cinch to do everything I ever had to do on it. You could change the head gasket in under an hour if you knew what you were doing, and probably half that if you were good a it. All the newer friend's/family's cars are "hey uh, tie rod bushing needs replacement, do you have two whole days free?"

Absolute AIDS.

>> No.2589636

>>2589558
>>2589596
>designer that isn't a fucking moron
The designer knows exactly what they're doing. It's artificial complexity and planned obsolescence. Plain and simple. The same reason Apple uses special snowflake chargers and requires you to get it serviced at the Apple Store. Manufacturers now make cars intentionally difficult for the DIY-er to service, and so complex that as more and more little shit breaks you feel more inclined to just say fuck it and buy a new vehicle instead. The industry is geared towards the initial buyer, who has plenty of money, doesn't do any of their own work and has a huge aversion to even the smallest amount of discomfort or inconvenience, regardless of the cost. I hate it so fucking much.

Wheel bearings is the perfect example of this. Old school wheel bearings cost like $5, but you have to do them a little more often. That was too much "inconvenience" for some people, so the industry switched to self-sealed wheel bearings. They last a little longer, but when you do need to change them the part is $40, takes a couple hours (for the DIY at least) and requires more specialized tools. People decided that was too much hassle too, and now the industry is going towards just replacing the whole hub assembly every time the fucking wheel bearing fails which is a couple hundred bucks. So they went from a $5 job you had to do every like 25k miles but a DIY-er could do easily with a socket set and a jack, to a $200 job you have to do every 50k miles or so, and people think that's fucking progress because it's out of sight and out of mind. It's wasteful of resources and money, but no one fucking cares. I passionately hate anyone who thinks that is a worthwhile tradeoff.

>> No.2589717

When I first got my car it pulled to the right, so I got new tires and an alignment. Then it pulled to the left. Now, years later, I got new tires again but without an alignment. And it drives perfectly straight.
What's going on? Wheels are messed up? They're the old steel kind with hubcaps.

>> No.2589719

>>2589560
Not necessarily. Get off your ass and inspect. Get in your attic or wherever near where you found the rot, peel back insulation and look around with a flashlight to see. It might just be the case that paint peeled on that particular spot or bugs got in to cause rot there.

>> No.2589721

>>2589717
Probably not the wheels. Does it shake or vibrate? Especially at high speed? If your wheels are that fucked up you should notice some kind of vibration.

And why the fuck did you let it go for years after a bad alignment job? You should have gone right back to the shop and told them they fucked it up and need to fix it.

I would look at all the soft rubber parts that effect alignment--control arm bushings, ball joints, but especially tie rod ends. Jack up the front end and test for play in the wheels.

Take it in and get a 4-wheel alignment check done. Lots of shops just do 2 wheel alignments, but the back tires can be out of alignment too. And lots of shops will check it for free so if it's not fucked up you don't need to pay anything.

>> No.2589726

>>2589721
Yeah it's a it's always felt a little weird at freeway speeds so I never drive it on there. I use it as a grocery getter, city only. The pulling wasn't that bad at first, but I definitely noticed it went from right to left. Eventually I needed to keep my hand on the wheel at all times. Now it's perfect.
I'll definitely check for play in the wheels. I was thinking tie rod ends, ball joint stuff before, but now that it's so perfect I'm hesitant to mess with it.

>> No.2589730
File: 689 KB, 546x544, 1678833539061447.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2589730

Is there a way to speed up the way aged exterior cement walls/pavement gain a natural stain of spots, textures, different colors, lichens, etc? Just got done with a new cement project and I hate the sterile clean look

>> No.2589733

>>2589726
When you say weird did it shake or vibrate violently, or just kind of wander around the road? If it shook, yeah, wheels or tires. If it was wandering and all you did was put new tires on, I would definitely go get that alignment check done, not just trust that it was fine now. Unless those tires were internally fucked somehow, that issue usually comes from those wearable alignment parts failing and it will definitely come back.

>> No.2589739

>>2589733
It's been years since I had it on the freeway but it felt kinda wobbly. Not wobbly left or right but wobbly up and down. The last tires I had for 8 years and I only put 15k miles on them, but they dry rotted. There was no noticeable wear on them other than that. Thanks for the help, it's a cheapass POS car that's hard to justify spending any money on.

>> No.2589771
File: 614 KB, 2016x1512, 54F137E8-8E5E-409E-9004-C24283B065E2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2589771

How do I fix this? Ceramic bobblehead that snapped at a weak point, would like to reinforce it so it doesn’t happen again.

>> No.2589772

>>2589771
Drill perfectly matching holes in both pieces (drill in one piece, cover that surface with ink, mate the two pieces together, then use the ink marks to tell you where to drill the second piece). Put metal pins in the holes to pin the two sides together. When you're happy with the fit, take it all back apart, fuck everything up with JB Weld and put it back together again, wipe off the excess and clamp for 24 hours. It'll never break there again.

>> No.2589773

>>2589771
CA glue and baking soda - do it right and the baking soda will form rock hard fillets around the joint, ie super strong. look on youtube...

>> No.2589776

>>2589587
>making it dangerous to use as a support beam.
Catagorically untrue, and you are a nuh uh-ing moron neckbeard. You're wrong, get the fuck over it.

>> No.2589789

>>2589772
>>2589773
Seems to have worked. Thanks for quick reply

>> No.2589812

>>2588531
I just got hired on at a factory's fabrication shop with no real metalworking experience. They'll train me obviously, but I'm excited about the opportunity and want to learn all that I can. They list "CNC lathes, CNC plasma, brake press and shears" as some of the equipment they use to fabricate. Is there any good resources or general tips for what I should know? I have some mechanical experience from working on cars and machine operating from warehousing. I guess I'm looking to get a leg-up and not be complete deadweight going in.

>> No.2589826

Does anyone know how camera lenses were made in the 19th century? Did they hand grind the lenses or did they have some sort of machinery? I can't seem to find books or papers that describe the process.

>> No.2589832

>>2589776
Lol, you're an angry little elf.

>> No.2589848

I think that the cement floor in my basement is moving, or like it 'breaths.' I'm thinking this because some of the flooring appears different year by year. Also, during the summer my bathroom door rubs against the molding, when it doesn't in the winter. (It's very dry in the winter (50% humidity according to my dehumidifier) and moist (80%) in the summer) My theory is that the ground underneath my house expands during the summer.

As a side note, when I bought the house I had to refit the support columns because there was a disaster of some sort down there before.

>> No.2589858

>>2589848
Can you do some sort of long term timelapse and see what's happening?

>> No.2589860

>>2589848
My brother had the same issue and Haloperidol did well for him. God bless you son.

>> No.2589874
File: 105 KB, 950x851, saving_slabs-b.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2589874

>>2589429
Ah, that's the missing piece.
Thanks, anon.

>> No.2589931

>>2588611
Some oils are drying, some are non-drying. If you wiped off the excess and it’s a drying oil, it should be dry to the touch inside of an hour for most oils, cause it’s soaked in. Thicker stuff like boiled linseed might take a lot longer

>> No.2589932

>>2589931
Wait I’m a half asleep retard that didn’t read ‘stains’ and thought you were just oiling wood. For stains it’s specific to the type and should state drying time and such on the container. Most of the ones I use are touch dry inside 4 hours at the most.

>> No.2589933

>>2589874

Not that anon, but I have Matthias a few times, ama

>> No.2589989

>>2588531
Is blasting (or just blowing) portable AC in dehumidyfing mode (doesn't really matter what the setting is, warm air goes into the fridge and back into AC cold loop) at a frosted (and turned off) freezer a smart or dumb move? It seems to have tons of ice inside and I'm running out of towels to collect it (can't fit any respectable container below, can't disassemble enough parts to remove the ice)

>> No.2590003
File: 1.02 MB, 2592x1944, PXL_20230330_150325051.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2590003

Sup /diy/, here's a pic of my family's kitchen sink which my mom has been bugging me to somehow replace the portion of the countertop behind it, what's the best way to go about doing this?

>> No.2590004
File: 1.04 MB, 1944x2592, PXL_20230330_150213198.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2590004

>>2590003
A view of the underside near the right

>> No.2590005
File: 1022 KB, 1944x2592, PXL_20230330_150251797.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2590005

>>2590004
A view of the underside near the left

>> No.2590008
File: 899 KB, 1944x2592, PXL_20230330_151244199.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2590008

>>2590005
A view of the gap between these two bits of countertop

>> No.2590015

>>2590008
>>2590005
>>2590004
>>2590003
If you don't know what you're doing, hire someone before you flood your mom's kitchen or cause damage that will cost you even more.

>> No.2590025

>>2590015
everyone learns by fucking up at some point. not saying this as an asshole thing, but op should just jump in and take a gamble. after, he will know what not to do and what to do

>> No.2590059

>>2590008
>>2590005
>>2590004
>>2590003
Your mom has a shitty particle board countertop. they really only have a lifespan of a decade (Especially ones without a seamless back edge)
>Remove the sink completely
>Remove entire countertop
>go to home depot and buy another cheap shit particle board countertop
>Use sink hole from old counter to cut a new sink hole in the new one
>install with construction adhesive
>Reinstall sink with caulk to seal around the edge
>Re-secure clips

You can also use solid wood butcher block slabs (They cost about the same as the shit prefab particle board countertops) or if you want to go even cheaper, you can get a sheet of OSB or 3/4" ply and make a tile countertop that will last forever. (These are a pain to clean though)

>> No.2590101
File: 134 KB, 1119x1011, papiermarbre19ecoquille2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2590101

How "hard" is it to create marbled paper? Is it worth is to use in a couple of books?

>> No.2590123

>>2590101
making any decent paper yourself is a tremendous pain in the ass and you'll end up with sheets like 1/16th of an inch thick that fall apart as soon as they absorb some humidity. I'd consider if for a wall art maybe but an actual book would be tedious, coarse, and warped on the spine.

>> No.2590147

>>2590123
Oh? I assumed I could try using regular printer paper.

>> No.2590178

>>2590147
Oh I'm sorry I thought you meant "create" paper yourself a page at a time with multiple colors of pulps.

If you just mean dying existing paper then yes, you just need a baking pan with sides, buy oil dye in the colors you want and stir it around on some water or size, then dip your raw paper, squeegee/wipe it gently, and hang it up to dry. Very popular on etsy and youtube. You need unsized or weaksized paper, not just printer paper of the shelf of an office store, otherwise it won't absorb hardly anything.

>> No.2590218

>>2590025
I agree that fucking up is a great way to learn, but the potential for this going wrong is high, and the damage would be a very expensive lesson. Better to fuck up when it wouldn't cause such a big effect.

>> No.2590264

>>2590101
It's not easy, for a beginner, it just needs the right materials, and practice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwkkIfldRjg

>> No.2590266

I've got a ceramic watch bezel, 27mm ID, 34mm OD, 1mm thick.

I want to sand it down to 0.5mm. But I'm not sure if this will make ceramic too brittle, I don't work with this shit usually. Anyone more familiar with it?

>> No.2590269

>>2590147
Oh, you are ignorant of the entire process.

Okay, i'll keep it simple:

Printer paper is wood pulp.

The kind of paper used for marbelling is linen/cotton based, it's basically watercolor paper.

Printer paper will deteriorate quickly, in any use, and yellow. You would be wasting your time, marbelling it, even if it survived the process.

Marbelled paper is not especially expensive.

https://www.mulberrypaperandmore.com/c-211-marbled-paper.aspx

>> No.2590271

>>2590123
Marbelled paper is typically used for the inner cover, not the outer.
>but an actual book would be tedious
Stop using words you don't know the meaning of.

>> No.2590276

>>2590271
and anon here is clearly trying to do every page, not just the covers, by her picrel.

>> No.2590393

tl;dr I accidentally spilled some uncured silicone all over shit in the garage, and I'm all out of the part B catalyst.

Is there any other household chemical that I can put in a spray bottle and spritz over the silicone to cure it so I can just peel it off? This isn't the first time I've spilled silicone and it's absolute cancer to use loads and loads of paper towels to clean it off

>> No.2590406

>>2590393
>Is there any other household chemical
ice, I think.

>> No.2590413

>>2590406
nevermind, apparently I am talking out of my ass. It looks like most people use super-high-purity alcohol or acetone, you don't want to add water.

>> No.2590418

>>2590413
will that cure the silicone or just aid in diluting/wiping it off?

>> No.2590420

>>2590418
the latter, it will dissolve into solution and then you can wipe it in bulk and then finish with soap.

>> No.2590464
File: 208 KB, 2000x2000, Mission-Solid-Wood-Unfinished-Computer-Desk.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2590464

Hello /diy/, I need your advice. I was drilling a hole in my PC desk outside (pic sorta related, not as fancy but the same rough design) and I hit the leg while moving it and caused the wooden mount that was screwing the top to the base of the table to crack and not be connected anymore. I don't know if I have any parts to repair it so I just gorilla glued it (where the tabletop came off I saw there was glue, too). As far as I can tell, the base part (legs, wood securing the legs) is absolutely fine. Can I put my PC back onto the desk or is it unsecure now? I think I'll buy/assemble a new desk soon but I'm not sure if it's dangerous to put anything heavy on it right now.

>> No.2590476

Real question, why do we make 2d cad drawing of parts instead of just 3d models? what use is the cad drawing if we cant even use it for fabrication?

>> No.2590480

>>2590464
if i understand you correctly, you applied pressure to the leg which caused the screw in the leg to break off, or some equivalent mounting point? Was it a plastic mount? i am not sure what gorilla glue is exactly, but if its a plastic part use a plastic glue to melt it back to reform into one piece, or if its a wooden piece that broke, use wood glue. Other glues might not hold up as long as desired

>> No.2590491
File: 1.22 MB, 1096x908, desk resized.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2590491

>>2590480
Good point. I took a picture of the fracture and the other side that isn't broken for comparison. Also I checked and it's not a wood glue, I guess I used one for plastics. I think I'll use my desk lightly for now and shop for a replacement.

>> No.2590494

>>2590491
thats definitely not a good fix, but its easy to fix, just get a piece of replacement wood mang. unless the desk is shit, but looks so solid wood so i wouldnt waste it if i were you

>> No.2590497

>>2590494
Yeah, ok! So I'll get some new wood, unscrew the broken stuff and put in the new stuff. Maybe I'll even shore it up a bit, too. It's lasted me a long time so I'll just keep using it. Thanks for the motivation.

>> No.2590507

Why is my bathroom light fixture flickering

>> No.2590515

>>2590507
Sounds like ghosts.

>> No.2590544

>>2590507
Is it LED?

>> No.2590600
File: 16 KB, 889x665, knobandtube.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2590600

the house i bought has knob and tube wiring, and there's a section where it is split, so an outlet upstairs isn't working. I traced the entire circuit for bulb #1, and my voltage detector didnt pick up any voltage on the blue line that is split on either end of the split.

I want to replace the wiring for bulb #1 with non-neanderthal wiring. Bulb 2 is fine, so I am okay with leaving that K&T wiring as it is until I'm ready to have all the wiring in the house redone.
Is it a bad idea to terminate the wiring for bulb 1 at the green circle so that I can replace the wiring for bulb 1?

>> No.2590605
File: 15 KB, 909x674, knobandtube2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2590605

>>2590600
this would be the finished product

>> No.2590650

So I have finally fenced in my yard, eventually I will build a deck and all from my kitchen - but I can't do that until I get a new furnace and a/c unit which will need relocated. Anyway, in the meantime I want to put some kind of patio out behind my garage. Mostly just care about not having my grill and chairs and such sink in the soil here.

What's the most affordable temporary patio setup I could do? Just till the soil, compact it, and place some bricks down? Would only need to last two summers at most.

>> No.2590887

Any advice for building some kind of small airduct style tunnel to put on top of an air vent to make the air blow out at a higher angle? Air vent is blocked off by the fucked up way the old tenants did the wiring in the house so I get air but it barely circulates at all. In theory I'd want a sort of j shaped external airduct tunnel so that I can put it on top of the normal vent and have the curved end funnel the air into the open area of the room. I have ideas but I'm not an engineer to any degree so I'm shooting in the dark here, any advice would go a long way.

>inb4 just rearrange your room
I don't want to do that, I have too much shit to be able to commit to that.

>> No.2590902

>>2590887
>I can put it on top of the normal vent and have the curved end funnel the air into the open area of the room.
picrel. If you want, also a vent booster fan (they have to be plugged in though) such as https://www.amazon.com/SUNCOURT-INC-HC500-W-Register-Booster/dp/B001WT6S5Y, that can direct cooling or heating to different rooms a little to prevent overcooling or overheating other areas.

>> No.2590903
File: 343 KB, 828x552, 6107765B-2E23-4046-8722-24200A52FC34.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2590903

>>2590650
Quickrete is cheap but would need to be torn up so I guess not really temporary.

They sell 24” square concrete pavers that would probably be second cheapest and super easy. I just did some 20” square ones for a walkway because I wanted some green between the steps and didn’t want to deal with a pallet of individual bricks, but they’re a little more multicolor which looks nice, some Yuro-Italian name for the color at Home Depot.

I guess it’s up to you if you want to do some sand or fine aggregate under them to keep dirt from coming through with the rain and the weeds. The 20” ones I did seem to be settling ok without anything under them but it’s only been a few weeks so time will tell and I don’t have weight on them all the time like patio furniture

>> No.2590904
File: 97 KB, 1496x1500, 71D8OmXxqfL._AC_SL1500_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2590904

>>2590902
>picrel.

>> No.2590905

>>2590904
and they are sold under the name "register air deflector," for like $5, sorry. Very common at goodwill and shit like that too

>> No.2590922

>>2590905
Or steal one next time you stay in a motel.

>> No.2590986

>>2590902
>>2590904
>>2590905
I looked up some of these and the idea looks promising but I would need them to be like 24 inches tall before the curved part. But this is a great starting point, maybe I can just make a taller "stand" for it myself out of some cardboard or something like that. All I know is I can't spend another summer in this room the way the air flows right now, it's hell. Thanks anon

>> No.2591014

>>2590178
>>2590269
Thanks, anons. I'm going to try it this summer.

>> No.2591018

>>2590986
>24 inches tall before the curved part
Fold some 24" cardboard into a rectangle.

>> No.2591543

I am a high school teacher looking for a cheap laser engraver for doing generic medals and updating plaques.

Is there anything out there for this purpose?

>> No.2591548

>>2591543
Your local makerspace will rent you time on one, generally at pretty close to cost. There are also a lot of shops that ship based on a CAD file for super cheap too.

>> No.2591632

>>2591548
>>2591548
Yeah, I in smaller Regina way off the metropolises, 2 hours from anywhere useful and all the local engraving stores are shutting down.

The librarian is making a mekr space, I might be able to convince her to use some of that funding to get one, but we'd want one that is user friendly and low maintenance.

I guess I should have led with that information, but I figured more of you would be used to the "I want to start a side hustle' line.

>> No.2591668

>>2589826
You'll need to take it with a grain of salt, but this is what I recall from my grandpa (who survived the early 1990s!) plus a lot of history classes. Early 1900's (pre 1930) it was mostly hand ground. The war effort made them try to modernize it. By 1960 most were machine ground for common lens types. Around the 1980's computerized grinders started being more commonplace. Currently computer-driven grinders with human assistance are the norm. This is true on all lenses from glasses to binoculars to cameras.

>>2589812
General newb tips:
>Use your safety gear.
Ignore anyone who says not to. Use at least safety glasses and ear plugs with decent sound ratings at all times. Gloves, mask and smock, too, if dealing with welding.

>Expect to be given noob jobs at first
You're new so they probably won't give you anything very detailed or important at first. This is nothing against you: they just need to see your skill level and how you work with the crew.

>Listen to the old hands, but don't fall for jokes
If you listen, people will tell you a lot. Let them talk and ask questions only after they are done. Beware of old pranks. Ex: There is no Long Stand. More pranks: http://messybeast.com/dragonqueen/fools-errands.htm

>> No.2591672

>>2591668
I have a small collection of 19th century lenses, and I've measured them the tolerances seem quite good. I guess I just need lots of practice. It's hard though because you have to grind multiple surfaces and fit lenses together as well.

>> No.2591700 [DELETED] 

For school physics tutoring you can dm me in discord aslan#4650, first lesson free<div class="xa23b"><span class="xa23t"></span><span class="xa23i"></span></div>

>> No.2591702

>>2591672
> just need lots of practice
Exactly. Lens makers were highly skilled tradesmen back before modernization. It was the kind of thing you apprenticed in for years. If memory serves things like calipers and sliding tip protractors were used to help the the lenses right. Even then, there was a lot of margin for error. The more precise and small the lens, the more expensive it was, Eyeglasses were really expensive!

Somewhere around the 1940s really cheap lenses were made by pouring. You'd make one really good lens, turn it into a mold, then pour molten glass into the mold. Sometimes it was a press mold like they used to make "Carnival glass". These are a lot less precise and sometimes had bubbles in them. Cheap glasses, binoculars, magnifiers and the like sometimes are still made this way.

>> No.2591761

>>2591668
Thanks for the tips mate. I know I'm going to be starting out assisting the guy at the CNC plasma cutting machine.

>> No.2591769
File: 207 KB, 762x660, Screenshot from 2023-04-01 18-58-51.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2591769

What is the recommended glue to use between OSB and a roll of vinyl flooring?
pic related

>> No.2591770
File: 454 KB, 1330x504, Screenshot from 2023-04-01 19-00-30.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2591770

>>2591769
What is the difference between the options in pic related?

>> No.2591771

>>2591632
Enjoy wood fiber m4 laser engraver.

You need to build an enclosure and vacuum for it, it's dangerous as fuck. Engraving lasers will engraver your eyeballs with unpredictable specular reflection

>> No.2591796

>>2588531
>recycling old wood boards
>making shelves
> different sizes
ascending or descending in size from top to bottom?

>> No.2591844

>>2591769
check the flooring manufacturer, they may have a specific type

>>2591770
other than the size of the containers, they are meant for different flooring types. figure out what kind yours is (vinyl or FG) and go with the quantity you need.

>> No.2591890
File: 316 KB, 2000x1661, faf3cae3979c5cab09c44a53cc8fa1d9.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2591890

Is tankless electric water heater the way to go for a house with no gas? As far as I can remember, they used to be quite a bit more expensive than water heater tanks, but now I'm able to find models that cost only about 100 euros and claim to be powerful enough to use in a bathroom. What are the downsides?

>> No.2591896

>>2589224
gotta watch how much you abuse them when taking them off. I just did the radiator and hoses in my car and had to really squeeze one. The hose with it then started leaking afterwards so I had to replace it on the fly with a wormgear.

>> No.2591900

>>2590393
F
no way to do it without turning your house into a mind numbing literal bomb with solvent.

>> No.2591901

>>2590476
as far as I can tell, its so that you can tell the shop exactly what tolerances and such you need and then yell at them and refuse to pay if they screw it up. pretty much everyone just loads the step into cam nowadays. Many drawings now also include a note saying "3d model is the real deal and held to a profile tolerance of so and so, this dwg is supplementary info"

>> No.2591932

>>2591890
The cheap stuff is junk, you need to pay 500+ bucks for a boiler. Just to give an example, my basic heat exchanger for a combi boiler costs about a hundred bucks.

>> No.2591947

>>2591932
Why are they junk? Are they unable to maintain a constant temperature during use or something?
I've been using an Ariston (same company as the tankless heater I posted) boiler for like 5 years in my apartment and it works fine. I'm not willing to spend extra just because of the preconceived notion that if it's cheaper, it must be junk.<div class="xa23b"><span class="xa23t"></span><span class="xa23i"></span></div>

>> No.2591948

My UPS has a smell to it, could it be toxic and sulfuric acid? Am i going to die now?
It's new and there's an expected plastic smell but I don't know, can't tell if there's also the rotten egg smell of sulfuric acid about to kill me (death within 48 hours of exposure)

>> No.2591949

>>2591948
Maybe

>> No.2591950

>>2591949
Please help me. I DONT WANNA DIE...

>> No.2591979

>>2591947
Nancy the men are talking, fuck off.

>> No.2591990

>>2591947
Efficient heat exchange for fluids requires a lot of surface area, which requires fairly complex parts, made of fairly expensive materials like copper. If the whole unit is 100 bucks, I can't imagine it being any more complex than a bit of copper pipe wrapped around a heating element. Reviews on cheap units all seem to tell the same story, that it struggles to heat water beyond lukewarm at a dribble.

>> No.2591998
File: 1.74 MB, 1728x2252, IMG_20230402_140418.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2591998

Bought an empty motor oil barrel from ebay, 60 L capacity. Cut off the top, cleaned off remaining oil. Intention was to use it as dyeing container, which worked sofar for the first attempt. Placed it on a conductive heater to heat up the water continously, the barrel is magnetic.

To the problem, shit's rusting fast, look at this. Cleaned it two times with vinegar but it starts to rust right after. Large stainless steel pots are so expensive + they don't work with conductive heaters, no? This barrel was about 18€ only. Then again 'rust' dyeing is a thing lol

>> No.2592005

>>2591990
All it needs is a heating element , heat exchanger and a thermostat. There's nothing complex about it. In fact it's pretty much a glorified electric kettle.

>> No.2592006

>>2592005
It's a little more complex when you add flow rate into the equation.

>> No.2592009

>>2592006
It is, however after researching these cheap Ariston units, it seems like the major problem with them is that 70% of them leak.

>> No.2592020

Should I replace all my electric outlets at the same time (muh recebtacles) so they match? There's a bunch of 2 prongs and no gfci in the bathroom or kitchen.
Should I go crazy and get afci outlets or breakers?

>> No.2592021

>>2591948
Mine doesn't smell anon

>> No.2592022

>>2592020
Why would you ever replace an outlet if you don't have to? It's a mild hassle to do one, it's awful to do 20+ in a row when they're behind furniture and shit.

AFCI is a gimmick if you don't live in a dogshit wooden house where rats can get in your walls and chew through your wires.

>> No.2592030

>>2592022
"so they match." He's obviously a fag.

>> No.2592034

>>2592020
You only need a GFCI at the front of the circuit for ungrounded circuits to pass an inspection
When I flip a house, I swap the breakers for afci's where possible and install GFCIs everywhere else

>> No.2592035

>>2591948
What's "up dawg"?

>> No.2592036

>>2591890
You need to actually get the power to the rooms if you're buying 1-room tankless heaters

>> No.2592038

>>2591796
Top smaller

>>2590650
Menards sells 12"x12" pavers for 1.50/pc or something
I dress up the edges with fancier ones but run them in the middle so my patios are cheap AF and last as long as your base holds up

>> No.2592039

>>2590507
There must be a receptacle loose in your mom's room that they ran the circuit through.
I'm assuming you only see them then flickering when you hear her moaning, correct?

>> No.2592040

>>2590491
Everything bonds to wood
I would give it a roughhouse test and then if it holds, you good

If those pieces are poly-ed you'd need to use plastic glue anyway

>> No.2592042

>>2590059
>These are a pain to clean

If you get clean edge tile(true 90° edges), you can glue them right up against each other and then use a solid surface seaming kit (matching silicone, plastic knife, silicone smoothing solution) and make the counter smooth and easy to wipe(like true stone)

Protip! Use real stone to fool the boomers

>> No.2592047

>>2589848
So wood and everything porous expands in high humidity. In a basement, you need everything to be properly sealed to combat this- walls, floor, every porous thing painted with exterior paint etc etc

If the floor heaves during the winter, it's due to frost and was clearly not dug deep enough into the ground for your frost line

>> No.2592048

>>2589730
Just stain it lmaoooo
Also, you're retarded lolololol

>> No.2592168

i want to test if my 12 volt 10/50 amp car battery charger works so I can sell it. It has two settings, 10 amp charge, and 50 amp start. My multimeter (Fluke 75-3) can test the voltage for both settings but with the 10A fuse I'm not sure how to test the amperage.

>> No.2592192

>>2588531
what kind of wrench is that fucking monkey holding?

>> No.2592194

>>2592168
Plug a speaker into it to test it.

>> No.2592208

>>2592168
Lick the terminals. If you can still taste something afterwards, it doesn't work.

>> No.2592216

>>2589124
anyone? I think I'm gonna use 2x4s since they seem easier to work with / cut. I only have a handsaw. my concern is cutting the 2x4s at an angle with a hand saw. took some measurements and I think I'll have to cut the top of the door to fit in the space

>> No.2592217
File: 19 KB, 865x1040, attic_wall_measurements.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592217

>>2592216
>>2589124
measurements (not to scale)

>> No.2592241

Does wood adhere to concrete? Meaning, if I stab a wooden rod through a milk carton, fill it with metal bits, and then cast concrete in it, will it stick together? Do I need to enforce a separation between the metal bits and the rod prior to casting?
I'm asking because I want dumbbells, which for some reason are stupidly expensive. Has anyone tried something similar, and if so how did it go?

>> No.2592243

>>2592241
Concrete is a bad choice for dumbbells, it's very bulky. Just buy some steel plates and put them on a steel bar.

>> No.2592260

>>2592243
>concrete is bulky
The metal would provide the weight; the concrete's just to give it shape.
>put steel plates on a steel bar
... "Put" how? I don't have a welder, a riveter or anything fancy like that.

>> No.2592270

>>2592260
You buy steel in the right dimensions with a 25mm hole in it. I paid a little more than material cost for mine during the height of covid because they were powder coated, but I guess it varies a bit.

Then you just buy some 25mm bar stock, fashion a handle out of whatever, I used a bit of alu pipe and tape, and use some basic compression clamps on the ends so the weights don't slide off. Or you can just buy dumbbell bars, I doubt they're that expensive.

>> No.2592271

>>2592241
not reall. if yiu embedd it like a fence post sure it will stay, but drop some wet concrete on a 2x4? nope not gonna stick.

>> No.2592280
File: 153 KB, 1348x1500, 71Ds5MtCt3L._AC_SL1500_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592280

The motor controller for my 6A 120v lathe died today. Instead of paying $200 for another, will a chinese controller like pic related, combined with a reversing switch, do the job? I'd like to just save and buy a better lathe.

>> No.2592281
File: 1.15 MB, 1000x1000, image (3).png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592281

Recently bought my first house and I am renovating it atm.
It needs new kitchen cabinets and i plan on going the /diy/ route.
It's 12'x12' and i have little to no wallspace for wall cabinets- So I'm going all base cabinets. (2 walls are covered in windows, 1 wall has 2 doorways on it, and the last has a opening in the wall and a bar built around it.)
I've got tools, and I've built furniture before, just never cabinets.
Anyone got any good advice, or good resources or ideas?
I'm mainly looking for inspiration to help me really cram as much storage into the room as possible. I like to cook and can fill up a kitchen pretty quick.
I was thinking hidden toe-kick drawers, moveable island.. maybe open up space between the studs and build a wall mounted pantry on what wall space i have.
Just curious what others here have done since I'm going at it alone..

>> No.2592282

>>2592280
depends on the motor, but good chance it will if its one of those cheap chink lathes.
I've used cheaper and they've done the trick in a pinch.

>> No.2592303

>>2589124
Everything you're asking depends
Just 2x3 or 2x4 construction should be fine.
The door sizes are just the slab of the door
The door frame is 3/4" each side and then how much you need beyond that depends
I would buy a flat, solid core door at 28" wide and 80" tall and then custom cut it to the pitch of the ceiling. You can obviously also cut a 30" door, most people just don't notice when a door is 28" instead.

It has to be solid core so it still has stability after cutting the angle. Cheap doors are hollow and slicing an angle like that will destroy the door.

The door would have to have hinges on the tall side in this scenario (obv)
I would costum frame the jamb and everything so the door felt mostly normal.

I would probably just frame with 2x3s because that would allow me to make the jamb out of 1x4s instead of having to buy jamb stock (4.5" w)


You want to be able to brace the wall on all sides. If the room was sheathed with plywood under the drywall, it doesn't matter, but if not, the wall need to run close to a rafter to attach the top. The sides actually don't necessarily need to be secured into studs, but I would likely try to as the studs should be under the rafters.
You can always cut the wall out and add cross boards to put the wall anywhere if you don't like the rafter placement.

Read up on wall framing and custom door framing to figure your shit out.

>> No.2592306

>>2592281
Just order some Quality One premium cabinets from Menards
These days, it's cheaper to buy prefab than to build and it's entirely due to the doors

>> No.2592339

What are some of the cheaper flooring options that aren't carpet and aren't absolute shit that won't last?

>> No.2592380

>>2592339
Some of those composite woods aren’t too bad at all. Had them in the last house I rented after a leak fucked the old wood floor in the kitchen, and seen them a few other places. They were quite durable the year or two I had them, quick install too and it’s more uniform than wood so you don’t need to return 1/4 of the pieces with bad knots.

>> No.2592556

>>2590600
>>2590605
>follow up
I
did this on saturday and so far my house has not burned down yet. ran completely new romex directly from the outlet to the breaker on a 30 amp, although this outlet is only the TV and Xbox in the main room. I copied what the electrician that was here last month did with the internal wiring, so I think I should be fine

The wiring that no longer goes to the outlet terminates in a junction box and each wire is engulfed in electrical tape.

This sounds like it won't catch on fire, right?

>> No.2592565
File: 19 KB, 381x304, Screenshot_20230403_140835_eBay.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592565

What the fuck are these things called??

>> No.2592566

>>2592565
strain relief

>> No.2592594

>>2592566
Thanks

>> No.2592603
File: 2.49 MB, 4000x3000, SinkPhoto.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592603

So I got a sink that's leaking.
I look at all these people who have to pop something off to get at the screw, but mine has the screw exposed.
But when I go underneath, there's nothing to get at. It looks like the rubber seal should be removable but I can't get a flathead underneath it.
Do I have to remove the faucet's locking nuts to take apart each spout or something?

>> No.2592686
File: 648 KB, 982x889, Screenshot 2023-04-03 135820.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592686

Can anyone familiar with the Akron area tell me if this seems like a good deal?

https://www.redfin.com/OH/Akron/1005-Onondago-Trl-44312/home/75536544

Also it went off the market a little over a month ago and popped back up today, if that's a red flag, idk

>> No.2592789

>>2592686
I'm not familiar with Akron, but I am familiar with prices across PA and Ohio.
Price seems low given the current market and our inflated currency.
I'd see if the roof's fecked or the furnace is fecked before I even think about making an offer

>> No.2592820
File: 5 KB, 224x224, images.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592820

What am I looking for? I want to pick more stuff up out of my yard with my mower. The mulching blade that is on it is not doing a very good job. I tried googling

>21" lifting blade

with mixed results.

>> No.2592827

>>2592820
Have you checked to see if what you got needs sharpening?

They're pretty soft and run a lot better if they're sharpened regular

>> No.2592829

>>2592827
It's sharp, it's just leaving a lot of last years leaves on the ground. I was hoping to find something that would cause a little more succ

>> No.2592838
File: 326 KB, 1501x1201, 0513_02.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592838

Last year my basement was fucking full of wasps.I sprayed the enterance to the nest but they had actually built the nest inside the wall/roof itself.This is the only part of the house i know that i didnt check because god dam i sprayed every hole, every crack every ANYTHING that looked like a wasp could get into based on where the nest was but the fuckers were STILL getting in. Question is, if i spray around this how likely am i to get a zap back into the highly flammable, highly explosive can of wasp killer?

>> No.2592839

>>2592686
For that price this is 100% a murder house or haunted.

>> No.2592859

I need to caulk then paint my window trim.

I already painted the wall around it so I wanted to tape the paint.

Tape->caulk->sit 1 hour->paint->1 hour remove tape?

I have some cheaper paint and my tape grabs a little too good and have had fuckups in other parts of the home. Im also worried I remove tape and the calk comes with it. Just looking for cleaner lines

Im overthinking this I know hence why im here

>> No.2592860

>>2592838
well usually the cans specifically say they have a voltage rating, often times stated as dielectric up to like 80,000 volts. just to protect morons like you.

>> No.2592861

>>2588699
The ones on your footer go to the city

The ones around your yard or connected to your gutters go to the city if allowed otherwise have an outlet by the sidewalk

>> No.2592862

>>2592859
remove tape immediately after. spit bridge.

>> No.2592912

I get answers here when I need them so it's not an issue but has this place always been this dead?

>> No.2592982
File: 487 KB, 2272x1704, dw-3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592982

>>2588531
what distance between screws when installing drywall?
what's the most likely mistake I'll made?

>> No.2592991

>>2590986
>>2591018
Not cardboard. You can get it out of the same HVAC duct material that other part is made of. Check out the ductwork section at your local hardware store, they have all different shapes and sizes of duct parts you could use.

If you're making it yourself, I would do it out of sheet metal and pop rivets and then seal gaps with aluminum tape

>> No.2593002

>>2592686
>https://www.redfin.com/OH/Akron/1005-Onondago-Trl-44312/home/75536544
beware of As-Is listings. that normally means theres something fucked up in the house that they KNOW is fucked up, but they dont want to go through the process of fixing it.

The house I just bought was build that year, First thing i would do is check all the electrical. its most likely knob and tube or some shit if it hasnt been upgraded

>> No.2593097

Ok, so I'm trying to figure out something puzzling that happened. You're in the house by myself. I can't leave the house. How could you dispose of 2 cardboard boxes and 2 plastic bags with no evidence.

>> No.2593104

>>2593097
fire in the bathtub

>> No.2593195

>>2593104
How can you check for that? The tub looks undamaged, it's plastic not metal. Is there some way to check for ash in the drain? I have taken showers since then.

>> No.2593204

>>2593195
You could shred the shit and flush it down the toilet bit by bit too. A fire in the bathroom would probably smell for a couple days.

>> No.2593249

>>2593204
It was basically 4 2'x2' pieces and the plastic bags were fairly thick and almost the same diameter but circular.

>> No.2593395

Looking to build some 4'x8' 2' tall garden beds. what are some cheap materials I could use for that.

>> No.2593396

>>2593395
Wood.

>> No.2593422

Does anyone have a reliable guide on how to grow vegetables on an urban balcony? There's plenty that comes up on Google, but I have no way to distinguish what's reputable and what's horseshit as a complete beginner.

>> No.2593429

2nd storey toilet in master bath gurgles when flushed so I think I have a clogged drain vent. How the hell do you clear a drain vent?

>> No.2593431

>>2593422
Dirt water sunlight. This shit is not hard. Make sure the water can seep out whatever you put it in, the one thing you don't want is standing water in the bottom.

>> No.2593433

>>2593395
Concrete. Stone. Tires. Dirt.

>> No.2593435

>>2593431
I guess, maybe I was overthinking this, If it's just a matter of getting any planters box or pot that allows water to fall through, and looking up what vegetables need how much water, then that's pretty simple.
I'll give it a go.

>> No.2593437

>>2593097
Id cut them up soak the shit out of the cardboard and then flush it in small portions.

The easiest way is to flatten and stick them somewhere. It doesn't meet your no evidence criteria, but it would be the easiest way to disappear them.

>> No.2593444

>>2593097
Hole under the hole. I flatten the boxes and line the trash can bag with them. Add the plastic and then add a new trash can bag. You come by looking for my specific trash and it's clearly not in the trash can.

Crawl space, between/ behind cabinets, under fridge, around dishwasher, under mattress or box springs, in any vent or return vent, under couch or stuffed chair. Thrown out open window. The answer has a lot to do with familiarity with the house AND how determined they are to not be discovered. It's different if it's teen hiding weed vs there was a body in the bag and cardboard.

Why not tell us exactly what happened, who hid them, how much time and where you've looked?

>> No.2593445

>>2592820
rake > Old gas mower > older blade > modern gas mower > modern blade > electric mower

>> No.2593623

>>2588531
got a question

I want to avoid using a pcb because its such a fucking pain in the ass to do anything with them and I don't want to pay someone else to make one, and because my project requires the removal of material from an existing product I can't get replacements for, I believe that changing were the switches mount is easier than changing what presses the switch.

so with that cryptic shit out of the way, can silicon work as a kind of hot glue alternative to bind wood and plastic? it doesn't need to be perfect, but i'm considering getting a relatively coarse file, doing most of the shaping needed to fit the wood into place, and drilling into it to get switches to slot and routing out channels for wires with a dremel (piss with the cock I got, this is a one off/very low volume project, special tools are not really in the budget)

I have no real problem with getting the switches to attack to the wood, but the problem comes up with the wood to the back of the plastic enclosure. I could possibly screw it in place but I want very little of this to be visible/feelable outside of the enclosure.

>> No.2593683

>>2593437
Do you think it would work better to boil them in water for a while and then flush them? The only thing in the house that was out of place was a large stock pot on the stove. Like one you'd brew beer in. I know for a fact that it was put away slightly dirty but now it's completely cleaned.

>> No.2593774

>>2588648
Actual machinist here.
It's ill advised to start fucking around with a machine without knowing what's gonna happen.

>> No.2593805

>>2593623
>can silicon work as a kind of hot glue alternative to bind wood and plastic?

It took me a minute to figure out you weren't actually trying to come up with some kind of fucked-up semiconductor process to directly bond an i9 to a dollhouse or something.

Silicone would work as a kind of hot glue alternative, but you know what would work better? Actual hot glue. Industrial hot melt adhesive is not comparable to the hobby grade stuff you're thinking of.

But it sounds like what you really just want is a panel mount switch...?

>> No.2593806

>>2588648
>Is it realistic to learn machining on your own? Or am I going to kill myself with it?

I did and I'm not dead (yet). I have broken a fair few end mills, though.

>> No.2593826

>>2593683
Sure, hot is better than cold, boil would be better than that probably.

>> No.2593830

>>2593623
Why not use plastic on plastic? Shaping would by sanding sounds like a no tools solution, plastic would be even easier.

>> No.2593835

>>2590887
I'd just add two 6" computer fans and see if that helps. No need to go all fluid dynamics over an assumed problem before solving the known one.

>> No.2594041

>>2593805
im replacing a rubber dome pcb with mechanical low profile switches, because the mechanical switches, as low profile as they are, are still taller than rubber domes, something needs to be modified to make it work, either the plastic that use to press the dome down, or the back where the pcb use to mount. because I can always re add the pcb if I take away the mounting area with wood, but I can't un shave plastic away on the button side, I am opting for doing shit with wood.

as for silicone, I need something that glues cold but not in a permanent bond, silicone seems to be able to fill gaps and be a fairly tight fit.

>>2593830
wood is easy enough for me to work with that even if need be a kitchen knife would be able to shape it, plastic would require me getting a square 2x2 lump of it to shape, or require measuring tools I just don't have for 3d printing, not to mention i am fucking useless with cad, the free cad softwares suck dick, and the paid ones are too expensive to even bother.

>> No.2594068

>>2591672
The astronomy crowd still grinds their own lenses, if you need some post 1930 anons grandpa resources.

>> No.2594069

>>2591796
Random and not centered.

>> No.2594070

>>2591890
Electric is the least economical way to heat.

>> No.2594072

>>2591998
This is stupid questions not stupid complaints. What you have is a fire pit, what you want is a plastic 55 gallon drum. You'll have to dip something inductive to heat but it won't rust.

>> No.2594078
File: 67 KB, 671x622, 1664540023500271.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2594078

im trying to find hollow threaded hemispheres like the picture but in metal. when its screwed shut the inside is smooth and spherical.
ive looked high and low for this and either im looking the wrong shit up or id have to pay someone to make it.

>> No.2594091

>>2594068
Yeah I saw some stuff but it's mostly mirrors or single elements, not many multiple element lenses.

>> No.2594098

>>2594078
Seems like a really hard object to make, so it's not a big surprise nobody makes them.

>> No.2594106

>>2594098
Not him. But that's what I thought.

Like.cast it andnthen machine it and cut.slme.threads on? Ouch that's pricey. Or machine from a solid block but that's even worse.

Spin it? Now it's gotta be so thin you can't cut a thread in it.

Spin it then glue or weld a rim on and cut threads in that inguess?

>> No.2594177
File: 1.89 MB, 4608x2176, grease fitting.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2594177

I am at work trying to source parts for a machine we are rebuilding. There's a grease block manifold that sends out 1/8" OD hard lines to various bearings on the machine. I added some new bearings.

What hardware do I need in order to adapt the 1/8" OD tubing to the 1/4-20 grease port? Picrel is an existing one that I am trying to copy.

I am assuming it's a pretty standard practice, so I am hoping it has a standard name that I am just too dumb to know.

>> No.2594179

>>2594177
*1/4-28 grease port

>> No.2594182
File: 242 KB, 753x516, Screenshot_2023-04-06_09-07-41.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2594182

>>2594177

>> No.2594201

>>2594182
>>2594177
That's what I thought, and that's what I want to do, but nah.

The customer wants to keep everything the same for parts interchangeability. These don't have a flared end, but a crimped ferrule between the two fittings.

Also, the thread seems to be a weird tapered thread, though the specs on it don't measure up to anything I can find on any charts. ~3° taper, ~27 TPI, starting minor diameter of ~.246".

>> No.2594208
File: 2.70 MB, 4080x3072, PXL_20230405_000833880.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2594208

What is the actual name of this stupid little light reflector out of China cabinets for the cylinder bulbs? I'm trying to search them to find a longer one to buy.

>> No.2594214
File: 1.33 MB, 1600x1600, 1680789695210.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2594214

Is there any reason whoever installed the kitchen cabinets would have done this?

I want to remodel the kitchen and rip this shit off, but part of me is worried they might have had a reason for spacing the cabinets an inch from the wall. Either that or they were probably crackhead
The other side of that wall is the stairwell to the basement

>> No.2594223

>>2588531
I live in a hilly place with a lot of cut hills for roads. On the sides of the roads there are a lot of leftover stones. Could I just load up a truckfull of these to use for a construction project or would that be illegal?

>> No.2594273
File: 2.45 MB, 1440x1043, Screenshot_20230406-110953.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2594273

Is it ok to stuff stainless steel wool in your weep holes to prevent ants and such from getting in while still allowing it to breathe?

>> No.2594276

>>2594223
Who gives a shit just put on a safety vest and hardhat and do literally anything you want

>> No.2594277

>>2594214
So they could screw them in without worrying about finding a stud

>> No.2594278

>>2594214
depends on the kind of wall it is but the idea is the same, whether its timber stud or brick where you have drilled a hole and put in a plug, once your head is inside that cabinet holding it against the wall and trying to put a screw in exactly the right place, you will understand exactly why they have done this, make a little ledge to hang the cabinet from loosely to take the weight while you figure out where exactly to put the screws.

>> No.2594286
File: 146 KB, 714x455, 1-s2.0-S2589014X21001444-gr2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2594286

have anyone tried putting solar panels over shade loving crops? I know companies testing and offering this service, i wonder how hard would it be to do the automation part at home? Changing angle based on the sun and measuring when does your plant need more shade.
Would it even worth it on small scale? Like 4-10 panels?

>> No.2594376

Anyone know what is a cork valve?

>> No.2594479

Got any good tips to shrink clothes please? I tried a high temp wash but it did nothing.

>> No.2594483

>>2594479
Depends on the fabric. Most modern ones won't shrink.

>> No.2594587

>>2594223
Like this anon said,
>>2594276
How do you live in a hilly place, presumably rural, and not understand the way life works?

>> No.2594695
File: 190 KB, 1382x633, IMG_20230406_193502.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2594695

How do I get this goddamn hook off my trailer chain? Do I just need to cut it?

>> No.2594827

>>2594273
Yes. In fact you should do it with anything leading outside to keep bugs and mice out. Use silicone caulk to hold it in place.

>> No.2594919

Im gonna build a bread oven in my garden this spring, but the perfect site is on a slope and I have no experience at all. I was confident about the oven part but looking into pouring concrete for a retaining wall, filling and pouring a foundation Im thinking I might be in over my head for a firat project. Its just a big oven though, might still be an ok learning project?

>> No.2595319

>>2594827
What grade is fine enough to keep those asshole ants out while still allowing breathing?

>> No.2595383

>>2594695
Cut it, or the link attached to it, or heat it up and bend it off. It's on there like that for a reason.

>> No.2595459
File: 713 KB, 2128x1805, 20230408_001116~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2595459

I just acid stained my patio after pouring concrete. Neutralized and rinsed thoroughly, etc. Pic related

I won't be able to seal it till next week because it's supposed to rain all day, every day, until like next Friday. Is it safe for my cats to come outside onto it before it's sealed? Can't find any info on the internet about 'when' it's safe

>> No.2595521
File: 29 KB, 512x411, apubanana.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2595521

There's a big portion of my backyard I have no use for and there's zero chance I'll ever want to use that land in the future for agriculture or whatever, all I want is not having to cut all the fucking tall vegetation every summer to keep neighbors from bitching and avoid getting into legal trouble. What's the cheapest and easiest way to prevent any shit from growing in a permanent manner? I've noticed the one part of the backyard where shit doesn't grow like crazy are around some ancient pig/chicken pens where the ground seems to have been covered with some hard dirt like clay or something. Would that be the answer? Cover everything in clay? Or is there a better option?

Also, I would rather not poison the soil unless I really have to.

>> No.2595543

>>2595521
Total area, type of vegetation, what type of land(is flat, grassy, uneven, rocky, marshy, etc)?

>> No.2595590

>>2595319
It depends on the size of the ants. Look at the ants, then look at the wool. Most wools should work, honestly. By the way, don't stuff it super tight. You want to fluff it a little so it can breathe. Any wool can be packed too tight, coarse or fine.

>> No.2595591

>>2595521
Till it all up. Replant it with clover seed. Clover doesn't require mowing, looks better than dead dirt, and is good for pollinators like butterflies and honey bees. Clover also makes the soil better for future land owners, which is a bonus in case someone after you actually wants to plant a garden.

>> No.2595620
File: 858 KB, 706x1960, 20230404_141828.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2595620

My mom just got out of heart surgery so I'm installing this expensive bidet seat she needs

Only problem is the fill line doesn't fit in the space left after the T fitting and I haven't found any elbows that'll work. Can I rotate this valve 45 degrees to make clearance?

I also considered raising the tank but idk what kind of pipe is being used for the existing spacer pipe
I'd rather not take the toilet apart if I don't have to
Old school break-yer-ribs surgery so she's nkt.evem allowed to use her arms for much right now

>> No.2595667

I'm debating if I should install three phase 400V power or single phase 230V to my house.
Let's say I opt for a three phase 400V 10kW installation and split it into three single phases for different parts of the house, while also installing a three phase connector in the garage. If I connect a three phase tool that is taking 5kW, how much power is left for the single phases in the house?
I tried calculating it like this: 10 000W / 400V = 25A (meaning I will have a 25A main breaker).
If I connect a 5kW three phase appliance in my garage, that's 12.5A of load on the main breaker, meaning I'm left with another 12.5A to spare. Therefore, 12.5A * 230V = 2875W. This leads me to believe that in my house I will be able to use single phase appliances that at most consume roughly 2.9kW while the 400V 5kW tool is running in the garage.
Are my calculations correct, or am I making an error somewhere in there?

>> No.2595671

What's the best way to put up a large door outside that abuts my house? the foundation for the house extends a few inches out from the actual house so I can't drive a post on that side, but I would like to have a 7 foot wooden fence door between the house and the arbor vitae thay start about 4 feet away from the house.

>> No.2595736

>>2588531
I use WD40 on tools to avoid rust.
could I do the same with motor oil?

>> No.2595739

Are 4 (2 per side) M8 bolts enough to chemical anchor individual steps of stairs into a hollow brick wall?
Asking cuz Id like to do it without stringers.

>> No.2595763
File: 7 KB, 834x682, shape.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2595763

There's something I'm about 90% sure exists but I can't remember or figure out what to call it.

Small oil-impermeable 'tarp' (on the order of 2' x 2' or so) with small pop-up "lips" around the edge, just enough to catch any oil/fuel before it runs all over the place. Forms a shallow tray, like pic related.

What are these called? I've tried "oil bag", "oil catch bag", among others.

I'm pretty sure they do exist and I've seen them, but if not, what's the best alternative that would accomplish the same thing? I just want to do the fiddly parts of rebuilding my carbs in my place instead of outside in the alley.

>> No.2595764

>>2595736
No motor oil wasn't made to do that. Get some CRC Marine spray

>> No.2595773

I've got a kitchen sink plug thing that has holes in it with a rubber ring around the bottom, it used to be that you'd put it in the hole and it would stay in place with just friction and act as a strainer for foodstuff, but recently it seems to have lost the friction and now just slides all the way in, where the rubber blocks the drain and it acts as a plug. How do these things even work, I thought maybe there was a rubber o-ring on the bottom to hold it in place, but I can't see a lip something like that might've sat in.

>> No.2595780
File: 298 KB, 1600x1200, 28037750_2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2595780

I already made a thread about this and then found this thread.

I want to get a diesel air compressor. I know they go by sizes, I need a 185 like pic related.

I currently co-own a 2000 Ingersoll-Rand, we use it for mining and the new one would be for the same end.

any particular brands or years I should search for, or avoid?
also any general tips would be aporeciated.

>> No.2595804

>>2595667
You almost certainly don't even have a choice. If you ask the power company for 3 phase they'll say lol no.

If you say pretty.please I'll be a commercial customer, they'll say okay, that'll be.45k for the install and a 5 year contract

>> No.2595807

>>2595736
>I use WD40 on tools to avoid rust.
You are a fucking idiot.

>> No.2595826

>>2595804
I'm not American. In my country, the power provider does not even give you the option of single phase if you opt for more than 5kW of power. You'd be hard-pressed to find a single house built in the last 10 years that doesn't have three phase.
I'll have three phase to my meter box anyways. I'm just not sure if I should bother laying a 5 wire cable from the meter box to my house and wiring three phase sockets in the garage and maybe the kitchen and bathroom (for electric cooker and instant water heater instead of old-fashioned boiler). I'm worried if I install a 6kW 400V water heater, there won't be enough power for other appliances in the house.
So, having said all that, does anyone have any idea if I'm on the right track with the calculation in my original post?

>> No.2595845

>>2595763
Drip pan / oil pan / reservoir pan

>> No.2595853

>>2595826
>>2595667
If you are buying "three phase 10kW service" that means you are rated for, and could draw, 10kW /per phase/ without an issue. Similarly "Split/Two Phase 15kW Service" means 15kW max /each/.

5kW rated tool (which will Literally Almost Never draw that much, but let's pretend) will leave you 5/10kW headroom on its phase/net, and leave the other(s) unaffected (10/15kW headroom each, if there are no other appliances).

>> No.2595855

>>2595736
troll, low effort for diy

>> No.2595863

>>2595853
Perhaps "10kW three phase service" is advertised differently in different countries, but where I live, it means that I will have a 25A main breaker (10 000W / 400V). It leaves me with only around 5.7kW per phase once I split them (25A * 230V).
The thing I'm not sure about is how much power is left to the single phases whenever I connect a powerful 400V appliance to a three phase socket.

>> No.2595874

>>2595863
I'm that case Your meter likely sums or measures them all together naively anyway. You could draw 10kW all on one phase, or across 3, or 2, or any combination/ratio.

The three phase heater is likely to draw power equally from(/between) each hot line, just like your service inlet is wired. However, some multiphase appliances work differently, especially certain complex devices like a dual-oven-range which may use them separately, or a motor which is damaged or improperly loaded. In that case, you'd have an uneven current between the phases already.

But, what matters there is the current capacity of your wiring (e.g.circuit breakers), which should be far below what is necessary to reach a service power limit and trip before any real damage or overload can happen.

>> No.2595878

>>2595874
I don't care about the meter. The 25A main breaker is the limiting factor. I won't be able to draw more than 5.7kW on a single phase when I split them, but I will be able to draw around 17.1kW over all three phases in a fantasy situation if I balance them perfectly.
However I'm not sure how much power will be available to the single phases if I have a three phase 400V appliance drawing 5kW. Is it 2.9kW per single phase as calculated in my original post, or 0.7kW (5.7kW - 5kW)?

>> No.2595903

>>2595855
Not a troll, I also use it on my shipping container to lubricate the doors.

>> No.2596060

I'm coming off a massive drunken and depression bender where I didn't even flush the toilet after I took shits. Well now there is a huge mass of shit in the bowl, all fused together and it's way too big to flush, in fact it doesn't even move when I do. The water will go down but that's all.

How in the holy fuck would I even start to fix this?

>> No.2596084
File: 273 KB, 1600x1200, 1271221844438.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2596084

>>2596060
Put on some rubber gloves, pick up the shit, and put it in a trash bag.

>> No.2596089

>>2596060
Hahahaha

>> No.2596093
File: 21 KB, 425x425, 1621211487069.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2596093

I want to cast some weights out of lead that will be handled frequently, do I paint them like any other piece of metal or is there something special I have to do? Ideally I want to keep it from oxidizing and making lead dust.

>> No.2596100

>>2595878
Sorry. In that case your original post is correct.

But again, there are exceptions depending on the appliance. Some dryers use all phases for spin but only one for heating and controls, and again some fancier high power upper middle class ovens as well. But something like a water heater almost certainly draws equal, or nearly equal per phase. Some have a top and bottom element but neither should exceed 1/2 the rating (or so on).

>> No.2596104

>>2596100
My brother tells me a lot of washers, both clothes and dishes, use 1-phase pumps along with their 2/3 phase drive motors. So, that one will contribute or draw more than 1/3 of the overall rating (the other phase(s) don't have that load, but share the rest equally). It's typically specified on the appliance body/case in a diagram or table.

>> No.2596105

>>2596093
You have to use lead paint, anything else won't adhere properly.

>> No.2596139
File: 1.95 MB, 3072x4080, PXL_20230409_052426828.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2596139

How the actual fuck do I dettach this hose and tighten in a new one? My hot water supply busted and I've disassembled every part I can think of to get to the hose.

>> No.2596140
File: 2.11 MB, 3072x4080, PXL_20230409_052433707.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2596140

>>2596139

>> No.2596156
File: 60 KB, 814x568, cu.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2596156

Is Curtis from Cutting Edge Engineering developmentally disabled?

https://youtu.be/s3amR4WQhVM?t=229

>> No.2596193

>>2595739
bump

>> No.2596207
File: 34 KB, 600x600, Tap-Backnut-Spanner-Long-Patte-27-x-32-mm-From-Silverline_jpg_92.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2596207

>>2596139
Have you got a set of backnut wrenches?

>> No.2596279
File: 318 KB, 1000x1271, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2596279

if I fill a cylinder with water when the piston is on bottom dead center and pour the water in a beaker to measure water content, would that give me the cylinder displacement?

>> No.2596299

>>2596279
You could also just measure it, a cylinder is stupidly easy to measure just get the depth and diameter

>> No.2596302

>>2596207
Nope, but I guess that's exactly what I need hu

>> No.2596389
File: 386 KB, 1200x1200, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2596389

i was thinking of making my own custom sized ziplock bags.
you could do this fairly easily, the only thing you need is a big continuous roll of ziplock bag.
think something like a meter or two in width, and maybe 30 centimeters long from top to bottom. you would then just need a cot piece of metal, something like a hair smoothing iron and cut the pieces to the size you need. and because of the hot iron you automatically weld the plastic bag shut.
only problem is finding a supplier for rolls of ziplock bags

>> No.2596421

>>2596389
Fucking why

>> No.2596424

>>2596421
Since I was a child I have dreamed of having my own custom sized ziplock bags.

>> No.2596472

>>2596421
i have a collection of ziplock bags. anytime i get something in the mail or whatever and theres a baggy i keep it for the future. every once in a while i need to organize some small items, like spare screws to a specific item or something and putting them in a little baggy and tagging them is the best thing you can do to keep shit organized.
problem is that i have very few medium sized bags. they are all either very small or relatively large. the other day i needed a baggy to store a bottle of liquid flux inside that i know from experience likes to dribble a little in storage, even when stored upright. so i wanted to put it in a baggy to avoid the flux to contaminate my storage boxes and the other items inside. problem is that none of my bags fit properly. i need something rather long and narrow but all the ones i have that are tall enough in the first place are also extremely wide.

>> No.2596502
File: 875 KB, 2016x1512, Fence Gap.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2596502

I have a gap similar in size to pic related that runs along a large portion of the bottom of my vinyl fence, any easy/cheap solutions to cover it up?

>> No.2596518

can you rent a 12+ inch miter saw?
I only need it for a few dozen 45 degree bevel cuts on 2"x12"s, no other use for it so I'd rather not buy one
or should I just buy one, use it for 1 day, dust it off, and sell it?

>> No.2596550

Need to get rid of some couch cushions that are just blocks of foam in a zipper pouch basically.

Is it illegal/inadvisable to burn it in the US? We're off in county jurisdiction so likely no one would care. But also don't want to ruin the soil/air locally.

>> No.2596559

>>2596518
Yeah, but don't expect them to be accurate from the shop. Check your local big box stores but depending on where you are you probably have some small businesses that might have one, call around. A lot of places that rent general heavy equipment also rent smaller tools a lot of the time. If it's a specialized business like cranes or a CAT rental place I wouldn't bother.

>> No.2596560

>>2596550
Assuming you aren't burning 20 couches worth, it's not going to do anything. Personally I'd just dig a hole and bury that shit, burning foam has some shitty fumes you don't really want to be standing near, and who knows how flame retardant it is.

>> No.2596563

PT lattice strips are a bad deal individually and too short so I'm considering ripping some long 2bys into thin strips. They'll want to warp but if I weave them will that constrain them enough? Has to look kinda nice, though.

>>2596550
Probably illegal on some level, definitely not advisable, especially if you have neighbors that like being outside. That said, people burn whole couches and mattresses with no repercussions so I doubt you'd get complaints. I'd bag em and toss them in a dumpster somewhere if you don't have a local trash collection site.

>> No.2596566

>>2596560
Is there a more expedient way that doesn't involve cutting it to ribbons and packing a trash can with it? I'm going to be burning off all the limbs that fell off over the winter anyway.

>>2596563
Probably just have to do that, it's six cushions in all IIRC or maybe we already got rid of two of them. maybe I'll just throw them in the barn with a bunch of other shit just to get it out of the garage...

>> No.2596599

I desperately need a screen/glass door to let some natural light into my studio sized guest house, problem is my dog has a habit of scratching the door to tell me he wants in. What do? A screen would get absolutely destroyed and I don't know how glass would hold up his scratches vary from little scratches to straight up horror movie tier screeches if I ignore him long enough.

>> No.2596613

>>2596599
This sounds like a retarded problem but one solution might be to have a normal door with a window in the upper section that the dog can't reach.

>> No.2596615

>>2596550
Most of the time it depends entirely on your city and county laws. Since you're out in the country that simplifies things a little.

>don't want to ruin the soil/air locally
Don't burn couch cushions then.

>> No.2596751
File: 17 KB, 522x522, 51CrdQEScwL._SX522_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2596751

I want to build up a taper out of a wooden dowel or plastic. I can't cut down the diametre.

so like imagine turning a dowel only a few inches in length into a V or U groved wheel. Dimensions too specific to buy the shape and I don't have access to a lathe so I'm thinking wrapping the ends up with tons of tape.

it's got to be symmetric

>> No.2596784

After not running it since Fall I had to crack open my lawn mower because the pull start died today. I changed the oil and got it back together but now it only runs for a few seconds after I prime it, then it dies. What gives? The air box is fine and I put some more ancient gas in it, could the fuel be the issue?

>> No.2596802

NEW THREAD!
>>2596798
>>2596798
>>2596798
>>2596798

>> No.2596813

>>2596751
The poor man's lathe is a cheap drill and a piece of all-thread. Play in the spindle means you won't get a perfect circle, my latest experiment in turning down a washer got me a slight oval that's 0.2mm smaller at 90 degrees, but it's good enough for basic work.

>> No.2596884

How can i create a panel of buttons to turn on/off lights but these buttons must be illuminated even if the lights are off??

>> No.2597678

>>2588531
Basic question suited to other mechanics since SEO fucking ruins internet searches:

Who make good quality 10HP air compressor heads? I have a nice new 15HP motor, industrial air tank and beastly phase converter but need a compressor head and don't mind buying new but can rebuild used quality rebuildable units. No skill issues, I just haven't maintained many compressors that size over time.

Are Brazilian Emax worth a shit?

>> No.2597830
File: 77 KB, 970x728, 1441-00.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2597830

>>2596884
You buy illuminated buttons