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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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2534401 No.2534401 [Reply] [Original]

I've been wanting to learn how to sew. I bought some fabric and a pattern.
I have some questions. How do I put the pattern on the fabric? Would it be fine to draw an outline then cut pieces as I need to? How would I sew the ends of the fabric so that they don't get frayed and torn? I've seen some sewing videos and none of them covered those topics. It was more on sewing itself and not making clothes.

>> No.2534419

>>2534401
Bro are you a dude?

>> No.2534432
File: 150 KB, 1124x1104, 1659570943496757.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2534432

>>2534419
Yes. Finding a pattern for a male was hell.

>> No.2534437

>>2534432
Show bussy (male)

>> No.2534440

>>2534437
I'll do it if you answer my questions or send videos to help.

>> No.2534442

>>2534401
>How would I sew the ends of the fabric so that they don't get frayed and torn
it's called hemming

>> No.2534464

>>2534440
No deal. Post butthole.

>> No.2534517

>>2534442
Thank you. I'll look into it.
>>2534464
The deal is off fag. I already have one question answered.

>> No.2534604

>>2534401
not OP but someone better give him vids cuz i want to learn how to measure and sew too

>> No.2534724

>>2534401
>How do I put the pattern on the fabric?
I use chalk. Tailors chalk is worth buying, and its dirt cheap.

>Would it be fine to draw an outline then cut pieces as I need to?
I am not aware of any laws that would violate.

>How would I sew the ends of the fabric so that they don't get frayed and torn?
Usually you use a hem. Your pattern will usually account for this

Some general advice:
Pick a small project to practice on, and use a dirt cheap material like an old bed sheet.

Iron your raw material, iron again after cutting out the pieces, and iron your seams/hems before sewing. Goes a long way to making your stitches look right.

Understand that just because you have a pattern, it doesn't mean that it will just magically fit you. You still have to tailor many garments. For this reason, I really recommend using a seam ripper and taking apart an old shirt that first you well, and make your own pattern from that. It's a good practice project too. There's tons of youtube tutorials on patterning, just don't forget your seam allowances.

>> No.2534783

Just cut a bunch of pants into shorts, is it easy enough to hem them by hand, or should I bug my old lady to borrow her sewing machine?

>> No.2534811

>>2534401
Typically patterns come on tissue paper that you're expected to either cut out and pin to your fabric before cutting, or use a pattern wheel (either the spikey one the dashed one plus carbon paper) to transfer to the fabric. There is a facebook group that has a bunch of info on using cheap projectors mounted above a cutting table to bypass that completely; I recommend that shit highly if you get into it, it's been great to just weigh fabric down, project, and go around it with a rotary cutter (you should use a cutting mat and rotary cutter even if you don't do a projector).

Go to a thrift shop and buy a few 100% cotton sheets / duvets and use them as fabric to make yourself some pillow cases and pajama pants and then go from there.

Your machine will have a zig zag stitch or an overlock stitch that you can use with or instead of various seam finishing techniques to prevent fraying.

>> No.2534813

>>2534401
>>2534432
>male
I bet you're going to make yourself dresses too?

>> No.2534826

there's a long line on each pattern piece with an arrow at one or both ends of it that's labeled "grainline" or similar. align the pattern pieces so that the grainline runs parallel to the selvage (i.e. the edges that don't fray) of the fabric. if you're doing each piece one at a time on a single layer of fabric, don't forget to flip the paper over before doing the second cut so you end up with mirrored pieces.
>How would I sew the ends of the fabric so that they don't get frayed and torn?
"edge finishing" and "seam finishing" are the search terms you want. what's appropriate depends on what you're making. french seams are efficient and tidy, look that one up.

>> No.2534908
File: 940 KB, 1728x2018, IMG_20221231_144005.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2534908

YES MOTHERFUCKER! sew answer me this, how would you attach 12 layers of thin fiberglas cloth onto a child sized poncho. Bought a 110 jeans needle yesterday in hopes it's strong enough. Broke a 100 jeans needle, trying to sew together 16 sheets of paper. It works if I pedal it at the slowest speed and help turn the wheel by hand a bit.
>pic rel first attempt, needle broke

>> No.2534909
File: 898 KB, 2304x1644, IMG_20221231_153440.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2534909

>>2534908
>succesful attempt, slowest speed. top

>> No.2534910
File: 940 KB, 2304x1716, IMG_20221231_153422.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2534910

>>2534909
>bottom, didn't catch all loops but still good enough

>> No.2534912
File: 802 KB, 1670x2122, IMG_20221231_153409.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2534912

>>2534910
>impossible, 32 layers of paper, needle won't go trough it
also this is normal thread, tried mono fishing line for the top thread, but it wouldn't connect with the bottom spool.

Gonna try to sew together a DIN A4 sized sheet of cotton cloth - 12 layers of fiberglas - cotton cloth. Some said I should get a dedicated leather sewing machine, but before I waste too much money on that I wanted to try out the strongest needles for my victoria

>> No.2535194

>>2534908
>>2534912
straight stitch throat plate. straight stitch foot or walking foot. a straight stitch walker would be ideal but i'm not sure you'd find one. move the needle down manually before engaging the motor. frankly i'd skip the motor altogether and walk the whole piece through with the hand crank instead. this just a one-off job? given the small size of the work i'd opt for saving the wear on the machine over saving the time. wouldn't bother with the paper testing either.

careful light abuse can only compensate for so much. if still snapping needles after swapping out the throat plate i'd treat the whole stack of bullshit like leather and saddle stitch it. if this isn't a one-off, i'd check craigslist for either a cheap enough heavier duty machine or a cheap as dirt comparable machine to use/abuse instead. if set to become even a semi regular thing, i'd follow the suggestion to get a dedicated machine that's better suited to the task.

>> No.2535488
File: 414 KB, 717x1674, red.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2535488

>>2535194
got it figured out, thx
>>/2535165/

>> No.2535490

>>2535488
man...

>>2535165

link to other board, add '/'. On same board don't.

>> No.2535493

>>2535490
oh and please ignore me saying /sew were no help, I did that before reading your info

>> No.2535812

>>2535488
>>2535493
kek not a problem, glad you got it sorted. very cool project btw.

>> No.2538165

Anyone recommend a book(s) from amateur to professional sewing? I inherit a sewing machine from grandpa and want to sew some costume / anime printed shirt with it

>> No.2538175

>>2538165
yes, the sewing machine's specific manual. For practice, draw some lines on paper and stitch along. Then try on some cloth. Measure out some clothes that fit you well, go make a t shirt.

>> No.2539206
File: 1.38 MB, 3264x1836, 20230109_153419.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2539206

What the fuck does this shit mean? Do I have to fold the fabric in half, wrong side out, then cut out two of the same pattern parts for them except for part four?

>> No.2539224

>>2539206
doesn't matter which side of the fabric is facing out. you cut two of 1, 5, and 9. folding the fabric means you accomplish that in three cuts instead of six cuts. 3 also needs two cuts but you end up with one piece of fabric; align the paper edge with the folded edge of the fabric and cut around the rest so it's one piece when you unfold. 2 and 4 only need one cut apiece so unfold the fabric for those.

>> No.2539309

>>2539224
Thank you.
It doesn't seem like it will all fit on the fabric, but that's whatever. I bugged it up while cutting so I'll grab some more fabric tomorrow, along with tracing cotton, or a fabric marker.

>> No.2539989

>>2539309
It will fit. Follow the diagram for the width of your fabric.

>> No.2541396 [DELETED] 

>>2534401
are you the one with the velasca boots lol

>> No.2542648

i want to size down a big jumper i have by taking fabric away from the armpit area to the hips and sleeves
any cool shapes i can turn it into? i have been thinking about something boxy, japanese

>> No.2542981
File: 63 KB, 1100x1007, 1644769719180.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2542981

I sewed for the first time today. It's actually pretty fun. Made a small bag to carry a tube/CO2 cartridge that goes under my bicycle seat. Now how do I convince my family that I am not homosexual?

>> No.2543009

>>2542981
call it upholstery, one of the original industrial arts
I also do sewing. I make ear flap hats and replace entire fronts of pants
I made sort of like a man purse shoulder bag using a heavy weight T shirt and some rope
>its main purpose was for hunting stuff as I can't wear a backpack and squat under all the bushes and anything heavy enough to need a backpack would kill my back walking in mud
upcoming project could be a fanny pack with a single pouch that is divided into space for a 1911 and magazines
add some material with button to whatever I use as car seat covers so it doesn't move so much every time I get in and out
>praise the Lord I am uncircumcised as He intended even though I never get to use it

>> No.2543027

>>2534908
>how would you attach 12 layers of thin fiberglas cloth onto a child sized poncho
Why are you doing this?

>> No.2543030

>>2534813
Not OP but I've thought about making dresses but it seems sad to do it if I can't wear them
I mean I can but they wouldn't look good on me

>> No.2543896

>>2542981
>>2543009
Men that use sewing to make bags/containers, or other utility items, or to repair clothes and fabrics are real men. It's just another tool in the toolbelt. Now, if you're making dresses? I can't help you there.

>> No.2543904

>>2543896
A real man would can make dresses for his wife and daughters and pay no mind to what a twat like you thinks.

>> No.2543919
File: 2.55 MB, 511x274, Heorhiy Pomishchikov.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2543919

>>2543027
why not?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xsmvD4DYzo

>> No.2543921
File: 1.34 MB, 2304x1684, IMG_20230104_003620.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2543921

>>2543919
oh sry, i got it done btw and test results will come soon
>>2509339

>> No.2544271
File: 773 KB, 3000x4000, this image contains the sweater ALREADY turned over.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2544271

how do i sew the inside of the sleeve/ribbon together so that i don't have the frayed edges showing?

>> No.2544298

>>2544271
needle and string
not sure how to tell you this
it goes in a more circular movement
it does not go in one side then back from the other side
it goes in and only in from one side
it will go over the top of the joint

>> No.2544424

>>2544271
by hand using a ladder stitch
https://youtube.com/watch?v=hGwT5yUn4bY
^if you want it done well
https://youtube.com/watch?v=c2B_fgEGMlM&t=20s
^if you just want it done

plus one more step not shown. after stitching the seam but before anchoring the thread to finish your sewing: pinch and hold starting point with one hand, then pinch at start and slide to end with the other hand (same grip & motion as closing a ziploc bag) to reintroduce some slack back into the thread. if you snug it up taut and secure it like in the vids, it's liable to snap at some point when the fabric stretches. only needs a touch, don't go overboard. you want just enough slack so it has a bit of give, but not so much that it stops looking neat and tidy or stitches become visible.

>> No.2544517

What the fuck is this shit that's glued to the inside of cheap suits? It's definitely polyester and I can only remove it by slowing peeling it by hand. However, when I look this up online I only find shoulder pad removal, and not this fucking shit. How do I remove it easily?

>> No.2544590

>>2544517
kek it's called fusible interfacing. gives structure to the fabric. haven't really had occasion to try and remove it in the way you're talking about. it's set by pressing with a hot iron so try heat. still gonna have to peel it off but blast it with steam, see if it softens the adhesive any. it's that or a solvent if you can find one that won't damage the fabric.

>> No.2544908

>>2544298
>>2544424
absolute pogchamp sewing techinique
the part i sewed was a bit hard to handle because it was stretching in all directions but it closed the seam very clean
big thanks my niggas

>> No.2544999

>>2543030
I think you're beautiful, anon.

>> No.2545051

>>2544271
How does it look now when you turn it right side out

>> No.2545127

>>2534783
hand hemming will build your character but id probably go for the sewing machine, ask for help tho so u dont lose a finger

>> No.2545145

>>2544590
It makes me want to blow my brains out. I'm making a 100% wool quilt so I can't really use any solvents. Thank you anon, the steam and heat kinda works.

>> No.2545353

>>2545145
patrician taste. wool fiber best fiber.

protect your ironing surface. adhesive residue mistakenly pressed there will eventually become the functional equivalent of a stain but ironing over that spot in the meantime just turns it into a post-it note again and again. scotch brite gets it off the iron. wet it first, and fold it in half so the heat doesn't reach your fingers as fast. it's a bigger pain in the dick to scrub off when the iron is cool.

i can chuck some scrap wool and fusibles into some solvents for you and see what survives if you want. dunno what properties a solvent needs to have for defeating polyurethane or polyamide thermoplastic resin that may or may not have some water-based adhesive cross action something or other, but i do know dry cleaners use solvents and it's the high alkalinity of bleach that makes it dissolve wool.

you sure this is worth the hassle? if it's mainly the breathable and moisture wicking properties you've chosen wool for, and if this suit is headed for the top part of the quilt, i'd just as soon leave the interfacing be and use the tainted fabric for cutting out the smallest pieces that can be most spread apart from one another. if the interfacing happens to be cotton or rayon (interlinings aren't covered by clothing tags and burn testing a fusible is gonna indicate polyester no matter what the fibers are) i would give literally zero fucks and ignore it altogether.

>> No.2545697

>>2543030
just make them if it makes you happy

>> No.2545702

I've looked into clothes making
I'm all about clothes being made to last and opposing fashion that's just meant to accumulate in landfill after being used for 6 months
What kind of costs am I looking at if I wanted to make clothing?
There's needles, thread, cloth, patterns, machines, etc are there any hidden costs which someone who hasn't done this hobby before would be surprised to find?
What skill and time investments? It seems like it wouldn't take that long to master the use of a sewing machine and all the different kinds of seams/knots

>> No.2545950

do you really need a sewing machine? how difficult is it to make clothes by hand?

>> No.2545954

https://youtu.be/ElrXxWENlfc
i reckon this weekend's project will be fixing one of my shirts that are way too big for me (and thus unwearable) yet i've never thrown away

>> No.2545959

>>2545702
what kind of clothing do you want to make and how do you want to make it? there's a lot of variance depending on what your objectives, priorities, and constraints are. it's a lot like woodworking if that helps any. you refine your methods and techniques and materials and equipment as you go. upgrades are often as much a matter of money as space. what you get out of that is typically a significant boost to efficiency and precision. cost of materials tends to be more than initially expected. embroidery machines meant for home use can be like buying a car in terms of the price tag but that's sewing more generally. most expensive machine for garment making is likely to be a serger, which runs in the low thousands new but can be found for hundreds used.

>>2545950
if anything it's less difficult, just much more time consuming. higher quality can be attained by hand than by machine.

>> No.2546226

>>2545353
If you want to throw it in solvents you can go for it. I know it isn't water-soluable lol, I wash the fabrics just in the washer in order to preshrink and because that's how I imagine the quilt will be cleaned in the future when it is finished.

>> No.2547700
File: 3.10 MB, 2391x2649, 20230121_225606.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2547700

I needed to patch my jeans and decided i havent hand sewn anything in years. Im really out of practice. Everything felt awkward, my tension and stitch length were all over the place too.
It should hold for a bit at least. I need to learn more than just a back stitch and running stitch.

>> No.2548758

>>2547700
Sometimes I find it easier to patch something if I baste the cut edges together and then put it in an embroidery hoop, to hold everything steady and even. That way you're only managing the patch material instead of both. That may not be best practice, since it stretches your main fabric relative to the patch fabric if you're not mindful.

>> No.2548762

>>2547700
Also, if you're having trouble with stitch length, you can mark a few evenly-spaced lines on the upper part of the thumb of your non-dominant hand. Line that up with your existing stitches, and go to the next line.

>> No.2549691
File: 1.95 MB, 1494x1854, 1- wool suiting fusible int.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2549691

>>2546226
>I wash the fabrics just in the washer in order to preshrink and because that's how I imagine the quilt will be cleaned in the future when it is finished.
what about the batting? are you using felt for the inner layer(s)? i'm not a quilter, dunno much about them beyond a vague idea of the basic steps & components. machine washable wool quilt is refusing to make sense in my head. how the heck do you pull that off?

1/3

>> No.2549692
File: 1.51 MB, 1494x1854, 2- turpentine, un-du, vinegar.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2549692

>>2549691
2/3

>> No.2549696
File: 2.40 MB, 2878x2690, 3- outcome.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2549696

>>2549692
vinegar was the control for comparing the other two against. the un-du worked slightly better than the turpentine. both aided in separation. neither harmed the wool.

>> No.2549906

>>2549696
Excellent hands-on research. Well done.

>> No.2550136

>>2542981
Suck a cock in front of them, but make a disgusted face the whole time (dont swallow).

>> No.2550140

>>2544271
Dude, why dont you use a overlock for that? Like you did with the cuffs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sjFULtl3kI

>> No.2550144

>>2549692
>din-du
lol

>> No.2550146

>>2534401
The reactions of some retards in this thread should be an important lesson for you: never EVER let people in your life know that you are a male who sews. I don't care if you think they are your friends - they will use it constantly to belittle, degrade and humiliate you in public at every opportunity. It sucks, but it's true. Take my advice, or learn this lesson the hard way.

t. Pretty decent amateur tailor, ~8 years experience. Nobody knows.

>> No.2550148
File: 28 KB, 409x512, 7CCBEDF9-910D-49A5-8444-3752C87B9282.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2550148

>>2550146
Pic to verify - recent project.

>> No.2550149

>>2542981
You never tell them. Ever. Trust me, it's less painful that way.

>> No.2550150

>>2543904
Truth. A serious dressmaker is a master craftsman. Dressmaking is no joke. I've dabbled a bit in stuff for my wife but not seriously. Women's wear is a whole nother level.

>> No.2550210

>>2550146
>>2550148
>>2542981
Idk I never belittle anybody for a hobby. This has resulted in a nice leather belt that has been holding up for over 5 years (store bought ones get used up in 2-3 years is my experience), a cape and now a fur collar for my cape so that it'll nice and warm in winter, a tunic...
Just do what you like and give no heed to the comments of the less intelligently inclined.
t. blacksmith without a forge or shop currently :(

>> No.2550212

>>2534401
Lay down the fabric, place the pattern over it, use needles or safety pins to attach it.
Then cut them together.

>> No.2550562

I have no patterns. Ive got a couple plaids from carhartt that are way to loose around the torso and id like to take them in. Is it as simple as pinning the shirt to my desired tightness then resewing it or am i fucked?

>> No.2550602

>>2550562
you use patterns to make things from fabric. You can just pin the flannel shirts and sew a line of stitches there to tighten them up.

>> No.2550849
File: 1.31 MB, 2992x4000, IMG_20220206_172433.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2550849

Finished this lady shirt for my lady wife a while back, I'm procrastinating but I need to now figure out how to measure and modify the pattern to tailor it. NGL it seems significantly harder than actually constructing the thing.

Here are the paid pattern files if anyone wants to make a lady shirt, this is the sewaholic granville: https://pastebin.com/XeyNcMBf

>> No.2551266
File: 65 KB, 750x528, 1657449454669.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2551266

>>2545702
>>2545950
sewing machine - buy used, get one with a plastic needle plate unless you want to be driven into suicidality
thread - cheap serger thread works fine, gutermann is overkill unless you're making ultralight hiking gear
pins, clips, clothes iron, marking pen/chalk - essential
fabric shears - nice to have, old zwillings are cheap
cloth - your biggest expense, anything over $15/m is extra fancy

>> No.2551742

I am making a canvas envelope and I want to make it waterproof/resistant. I might go for the paraffin and beeswax route. Should I waterproof it first or finish the piece then waterproof last?

>> No.2551909

>>2551742
Both?

>> No.2552921

>>2550148
Beautiful lay on that sleeve head, anon. And the welt pocket is perfection. Keep doing what you're doing.

>> No.2552947
File: 1.33 MB, 2992x4000, 1674838267292773.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2552947

>>2550849
You actually did a very nice job with this. The shirt is intended to have a lot of ease, but there are issues: Shoulders too wide, sleeves too long, armscythe too low, and the bust darts are...wierdly placed. You can tell all of that by looking at where the wrinkles are and how the fabric bunches. But all of that is salvageable by adjusting the pattern to your wife's specific measurements. Get your hands on a copy of Sandra Betzina's book, Fast Fit. Short specific lessons in how to adjust a pattern for specific fit issues.

>> No.2553260

>>2552947
TY, I hadn't gotten as far as finding a book and I didn't want to just start redrawing stuff without some idea of where to go. This was the first thing I assembled more complex than pajama pants and I'm looking forward to just having a master shirt pattern that fits her so we can do whatever, play with different collars and sleeves, etc. etc.

>> No.2553282

>>2553260
Your workmanship is excellent on the shirt. Just need to learn some fitting techniques. The Betzina book will defo help. A basic pattern you can riff off of is usually called a TNT (Tried N True) pattern. For a guy who has only done jammies before, the shirt looks great.

>> No.2553364

>>2550146

Random anon here...Personally I say just pick better friends if they start badmouthing your hobbies or creativity. IMHO it's incredibly based to be able to make your own clothes and fix things.

For my part my first project was a Scottish kilt based on a pattern from the 1700s an English Taylor of the time designed it to streamling the kilt wearing process after watching a highlander struggle with his traditional kilt after coming in from a rainy night.

I didn't have $500 to spend on a modern cheaply made kilt for my first marriage.

Approx 20' of tartan (royal stewart) material that I layed down my hallway and pleated ironed and pinned in place before hand sewleads lining up and matching the pleats without going blind or insane was the hard part, lol.

The result was 13 hand deep sewn pleats across the back a reverse pleat on each side that leads to the front panels. Deerskin leather straps I made myself. I did it in a week leading up to my first marriage and even wore it on my second marriage 12 years later and at countless formal events. I used a modern poly cotton mix fabric so it can go in the washer. It has lasted over 30 some years.

It makes me feel good whenever I look at it knowing I made it myself. Anyway good topic and tips folks, I'll go back to lurking.

>> No.2553369

>>2550140

Random anon here. Cool link and timely as I've been wanting to make hoodies for our teens. Ty.

>> No.2553479

Its strange that this thread is not hosted in /fa/. You would assume a board focused on fashion would have strong interests in making fashion.
>>2542981
Fuck your father to reinforce your heterosexuality.

>> No.2553631
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2553631

>>2553479
screw /fa, I asked them for help designing shrapnel protection for children made of fiberglass cloth (see >>2543921). They only mocked my idea and talked about being 'effay'. Fuck them.

A guy shot my plates with 9mm three times and the cloth test piece with .22. Plates held up sofar, the cloth not atall. Not even folding it once and twice stopped it remotely. I figured, fibreglass does not bend, like other types of cloth. It sure is strong when adhered with epoxy resin, but totally weak without it. So I went trough military history and body armor develpoment. In the early days of the Vietnam war, ballistic nylon has been used in flak vests. Bought some 600d nylon for cheap (d stands for denier and the more d the better), my sewing machine can't handle this stuff in multiple layers. Guess I've to use leather rivets?

>> No.2553650

>>2550140
i cant sew the two insides together if the insides are not outside
Next time i will smoke DMT and simply bend reality to sew the insides together

>> No.2553653
File: 942 KB, 676x793, guess the colour of the thread used for the inside.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2553653

>>2545051
good enough, doing embroidery work on it now

>> No.2553900

>>2553631
/fa/ really are just retarded consumer faggots then.

>> No.2554004
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2554004

>>2534401
How easy is it to stitch some of these on a pair of military surplus pants?
https://mostactical.com/products/crye-precision-g3-combat-knee-pad-take-offs?variant=39415429693507

Fabric Jews get away with charging hundreds of dollars for “combat pants” with built in kneepads especially in obscure or old camo patterns.

>> No.2554129
File: 275 KB, 696x1024, kneepads.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2554129

piece of cake. put pants on, position one where you want it, scribe a line on the pants with a sliver of bar soap along the top edge. remove pants, lay them flat, place thing at the level you marked, straighten it, smooth it flat, pin it in place. make sure all the edges are folded under, just follow the crease line that's already there. then run a basting stitch (yellow line in pic) around it, remove the pins, try the pants on, check the placement, adjust if needed. once satisfied, sew it down using a backstitch (blue lines), again following what was already there before, just do those same two lines of stitching all the way around. remove basting stitches, tidy up thread tails by burying them between the layers of fabric, first pant leg is finished.

try to keep it all as flat and smooth as you can while working. roll the cuff up and clip or safety pin it if the extra material at the lower leg is getting in your way too much, just be sure to let it down while trying the pants on and check that it's not distorting the areas you're working on. practice backstitching on a folded paper towel if you've never sewn before. in case you don't get on well with the pinning and basting business, i've seen people mention using elmer's school glue instead but can't speak to it myself. if all else fails pick up a roll of wondertape and use that.

>> No.2554130

>>2554004
>>2554129
derp

>> No.2554263

>>2554130
>>2554129
I mean I’m just gonna pay some Hispanic woman to do it but thanks.

>> No.2554293

>>2554263
KEK
no prob man, have fun

>> No.2554383

I stumbled upon this waxcloth raincoat and fancied making it myself for hunting, foraging and so on:

https://www.selfrelianceoutfitters.com/products/hooded-oil-cloth-pf-watch-coat?variant=39600534061317

What I liked about it is that I do not have to be too careful about how I treat it compared to high tech membranes and expensive outdoor brands.

I have made stuff by hand from leather and wool and did a couple of sweaters on a sewing machine before, but always used a sewing pattern for everything clothes related. I looked for patterns for bathing robes with hoods, but nothing good until now.

Does somebody know of a fitting pattern I could use?

Another thing is the fabric. I thought about cotton ripstop, but did not find good stuff (in germany). A tent fabric is too dense and heavy I guess.

According to the pictures it would be a pretty thin fabric.

Anybody with some good recommendation?

>> No.2554401
File: 266 KB, 794x1153, il_794xN.850818958_lfa4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2554401

>>2554383
What about this one? https://www.etsy.com/listing/252093812/pdf-sewing-pattern-e-book-mens-coat?click_key=135a5b1357dc66f4b312d2ede8f76a26f9ac6e3b%3A252093812&click_sum=a15353db&ref=shop_home_recs_2

>> No.2554408

>>2554383
Ripstop nylon is waterproof, light, inexpensive. You can also get PU (polyurethane coated) nylon ripstop.

>> No.2554504

>>2554383
https://en-grasser.com/vykrojki/all-patterns/men-s-windbreaker-bomber-jacket-pattern-446/
https://en-grasser.com/vykrojki/all-patterns/men-s-wind-jacket-pattern-437/
https://en-grasser.com/vykrojki/men-s-patterns/men-s-raincoat-pattern-823/
https://jalie.com/products/lined-parka-sewing-pattern
https://www.burdastyle.com/cotton-blouson-146-06-16.html
https://www.burdastyle.com/men-s-hooded-jacket-10-2014.html
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/allgemein/designer-parka-with-hood/
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/allgemein/pattern-construction-of-windbreaker-for-men/
any of those look workable? do a search on the word oilcloth, that's the name of the fabric.

>> No.2554812

>>>/lgbt/

>> No.2554829

>>2554812
fellas isit gay to wear clothing?

>> No.2554841

>>2554829
No. Sewing is extremely tho.

>> No.2554843

Does anyone know a good place to pirate .pdf patterns?

>> No.2554878

bump

>> No.2554937

>>2554841
them little chinese kids trapped in giant factories are all fags i swear

>> No.2554969

What are some cheap-ish sources of fabric if you have color/material in mind?
The hobby stores are getting too expensive and the pile at thrift/donation stores is not reliable. And not sure if I want to rely on the accuracy of Amazon listings.

>>2553479
Expect blatant consumerism outside of /diy/
Also expect something that is not instantly recognizable from other media to be met with crickets or at least disdain.

>>2553631
You need an industrial-tier sewing machine if you want to sew such heavy materials.
Also if you're testing such things, they need to be against an equivalent that they're supposed to be protecting. Jugs of water is easy, though there's plenty displays of autism to make a scientifically accurate.

>> No.2555290

I got one of those $25 childrens sewing machines. Works fine. Only found out later that for flexible shirts you need to use a cross stitch and this machine only makes 1 basic stitch.
Is there a workaround to make the basic stitch work?
Very new to this.

>> No.2555312

any books/resources on more advanced men's tailoring? "just pinch the sides and sew" works ok but i'd like to understand how to properly rebuild a shirt to remove any kind of bunching/wrinkling and really make it fit perfectly

>> No.2555555

>>2554843
aside from books and magazines that include patterns, not really. maybe >>2548431 but dunno, haven't really taken a proper look at it yet.

>>2554969
fashion fabrics club. fabric depot. nick of time textiles. miss matatabi. metro textiles. ak fabrics ny. blue desert co. the fabric market. the rain shed. fabric warehouse. fabric wholesale direct. cali fabrics. morex fabrics. ebay. etsy. jewgle.

>> No.2555607
File: 1.31 MB, 2772x2112, IMG_20230203_121332.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2555607

Hey thread what music you like listen to meanwhile sewing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_DVS_303kQ


>>2542981
>Now how do I convince my family that I am not homosexual?
Sewing nazi shit of course!

>> No.2555608

>>2555312
Look for David Page Coffin's book Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing.

>> No.2555633
File: 2.03 MB, 3577x2478, tailoring menswear.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2555633

>>2555290
stretch the material as you sew it. both hands on the material, one in front of the presser foot and one behind it. the machine needs to stay still for this; find a way to secure it to the table if it isn't heavy enough to stay in one place without help. this isn't a magic fix and the seams won't be particularly strong. if the material is very very flexible, or if the shirt fits very tightly/closely to the body, or if you aren't a little careful about putting it on and taking it off, then the thread is going to break somewhere and it's only a matter of time. try it though. sew the seams with the machine. sew the hems by hand. put the shirt on and listen for small popping sounds. move around a bit, especially your arms. then take the shirt off and find any broken thread places in the seams, then sew those places by hand using a cross stitch.

>>2555312
pic related are all floating around online. see how you get on with those. does it fit through the shoulders?

>> No.2555778
File: 1.13 MB, 1125x1166, IMG_7092.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2555778

where do knitters go on this board?

>> No.2555779

>>2555555
also gigachecked

>> No.2555839

>>2555633
>stretch the material as you sew it
Brilliant! Makes perfect sense. Thanks, mate.

>> No.2555914

>>2538165
That is so fucking gay. Sew something worth sewing. Like hats or coats. Not retarded anime shit, you fucking weeb.

>> No.2555988

>>2555778
If you're making cute animals, check this thread >>2545500
Otherwise, this is close enough.

>> No.2556327

>>2555988
checked okay thanks

i was hoping to find a general here because all the people who knit on more normie sites are either hags or fags

>> No.2556481
File: 535 KB, 1699x1920, Project 202212091231.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556481

>>2555914
You post like a woman and are likely a nigger. I bet you watch faggy ameriboo shit like Futurama and King of the Hill.

>> No.2556492

>>2556481
nah bro, >>2555914 is right
you are gay as fuck. a japanese woman would scream if she saw your face. you should kill yourself

>> No.2556496

>>2556492
>>2555914
1) Samefaging will get you nowhere in life
2) who gives a shit what spoonface chink bitches think
3) I bet you can't sew for shit

>> No.2556534
File: 34 KB, 600x600, 6c3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556534

>>2556481
Pretty sure watching cat boys fuck each other to some ching chong music is fucking gay. Also, King of the Hill is an anime.

>> No.2556535
File: 691 KB, 1080x810, Screenshot_20230204_213833.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556535

>>2556534
I bet you don't even own a sewing machine.

>> No.2556540
File: 104 KB, 706x311, Niggerstonguemyanus.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556540

>>2556496
Where's your sewing machine, you piece of shit?

>> No.2556541

>>2556540
Right here>>2556535
Post yours nerd

>> No.2556542

>>2556535
What are you sewing with that ancient hunk of shit? Ladies underwear for men?

>> No.2556547

>>2556542
It's classic, great for denim and only one of the many I own. You haven't posted yours yet. Don't have one?

>> No.2556548

>>2556535
Its covered in an inch of dust you fucking poser

>> No.2556550

>>2556548
Post a single thing you've sewn

>> No.2556553
File: 49 KB, 578x392, Buttchug.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556553

>>2556550
Sewed your mom's lips around my cock.

>> No.2556556

>>2556553
Funny, didn't know girls had cocks. What have you sewn with that thing? Tampons?

>> No.2556562
File: 192 KB, 711x1105, Eatass.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556562

>>2556556
Post something you've sewn.

>> No.2556565
File: 30 KB, 597x180, killyourselfnigger.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556565

>>2556496
>>2556540

>>2556542
probably, kek

>> No.2556566
File: 423 KB, 755x703, Screenshot_20230204_220638.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556566

>>2556562
That's trash. Just finished sewing this hat.

>> No.2556567

>>2556566
Looks like a stupid woman made that

>> No.2556569
File: 60 KB, 460x920, a91xYn1_460s.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556569

>>2556567

>> No.2556594
File: 78 KB, 540x720, Piped bw shirt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556594

>>2556562
Are we posting stuff we've sewn?

>> No.2556613

>>2556594
You use bias tape for the white accent?

>> No.2556614

>>2556613
No, it's flat piping made from an old rayon skirt. You can't see in the pic but it's white with tiny black polka dots.

>> No.2556616

>>2556567
We all know your mom doesn't know enough about computers to post anything here so why bring her up?

>> No.2556636

>>2556614
What is the difference from piping and bias tape? From my understanding piping is just cord with bias tape wrapped around it, correct?

>> No.2556646
File: 21 KB, 658x443, seam-diagram.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556646

>>2556636
Bias tape is always cut on the bias, and usually is wrapped around two seam allowances to bind them. Piping doesn't have to be cut on the bias but can be, and can be filled with cord or let flat. Piping gets sandwiched between two seams, instead wrapped as a binding.

>> No.2556661

I'm a lurker and this is the most based thing in this catalog. Keep up the good work tailors.

>> No.2556723

How do I hand sew faster?

>> No.2556724

>>2556594
That's cool. How many hours did it take to make?

>> No.2556846

>>2555633
>stretch the material as you sew it.
Won't sewing the sides of the shirt like this cause it to crumple up?

>> No.2556851

>>2556846
It shouldn't. When the material relaxes the tension of the thread will be loose but it should stay the same. Do a practice stitch on some of the scrap fabric you're using.

>> No.2556914
File: 149 KB, 640x693, Custom shirt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556914

>>2556724
Actual sewing time, once the pattern was fitted was about 5 hours. The pattern was a custom draft for a NY musician, based off one of his favorite shirts. That took 3 hours to copy, then 2 muslins to fine tune the fit to his liking.

>> No.2556933
File: 61 KB, 750x750, zig-zag-stitch-feature-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2556933

>>2555290
Does your machine do a zigzag stitch? If it does there should be a dial to adjust the stitch width. Use a narrow zigzag stitc instead of a straight stitch, to build in stretch in the seams.

>> No.2557810
File: 150 KB, 913x1001, Similar machine.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2557810

>>2556851
I'm adjusting a loose shirt. Maybe I'm misunderstanding. Am I stretching with the stitching(pulling from behind and infront of the stitch) or against(pulling from the side)?

>>2556933
No lol, it was $25, it does 1 type of stitch.

>> No.2557814

>>2557810
Pull from the front and back at the same time with equal tension, do not push or pull it through the needle, just keep the tension on the fabric with your hands and move it at the same rate as your dogteeth guide it into the needle.

Your best fabrics with this kind of machine is broadcloth/bedsheet type fabrics and other thin woven kinds like linens, and you'll do to try to keep everything in straight lines. It's great for making your own linens, curtains, pillowcases etc. but don't expect to do buttonholes or anything with it.

>> No.2557875

>>2555555
Thanks anon, I'll check those out.
>Some of them include a color balance sheet in their pictures
neat.

>> No.2558005

how about making an arduino controlled multiphase loom ?

>> No.2558090

you will never be a real woman

>> No.2558152

Will I end up with a stronger gambeson if I rotated the orientation of each layer ever so slightly from one another?

>> No.2558189
File: 317 KB, 982x720, IMG_20230124_190327.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2558189

>>2558152
I asked this myself, in practice it's wasteful. You'll end up with lots of odd formed leftover. Unless your cloth is cheap, I wouldn't waste it with such and such rotated patches. In the end I doubt it's so useful anyways.
>pic rel 18 layers of heavy and light mixed fiberglass in epoxy stopped 9mm.
Didn't use rotated weave directions

>> No.2558191
File: 222 KB, 954x720, IMG_20230124_190043.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2558191

>>2558189
>backview

>> No.2558192
File: 195 KB, 952x720, IMG_20230124_203309.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2558192

>>2558191
>slight delamination
still ok for what it is, minimal effective and light hard protection against the most common handgun cartridge

>> No.2558213
File: 3.60 MB, 4000x2250, IMG_20221126_183439.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2558213

Immagine being so fragile you think picking up a needle makes you gay.

>> No.2558218
File: 3.75 MB, 4000x2250, IMG_20221126_182707.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2558218

More of my gay suit, ngl sewing that big patch aligned was hard

>> No.2558559

Why is there a sudden influx of tranny obsession? Are we getting raided by a fast fashion jew who wants to demoralize this hobby? An unironic /lgbt/ poster that is looking for new discord recruits? Why would they target this /comfy/ thread?

>> No.2558679
File: 342 KB, 1200x1600, cachunkcachunk.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2558679

knockoff sailrite reporting in

>> No.2559162

>>2558679
Wow very nice. I'd set up my classified ad triggers for a table machine again if I had the room for one.

>> No.2560932

>>2558679
Beefy boi.

>> No.2561930
File: 76 KB, 236x218, 1653244124820.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2561930

I made a measuring mistake in a few squares I made for a log cabin quilt. Anyone around here have some experience to help me troubleshoot the best way to correct it?

>> No.2562013
File: 54 KB, 1024x683, log-cabin-quilt-block-4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2562013

>>2561930
Undo/unstitch the stripes on the outside of the blocks. Measure how wide the strips should be to correct the square shape. Like if the block is a quarter inch too narrow, cut a strip the same width as the pattern but add a quarter inch to it. Sew the new corrected strip(s) to the block to get back to the correct dimensions. So like in pic related, remove strips 13 then 12, and made them wider and/or narrower, to correct the overall block dimensions, then re-stitch back in place.

>> No.2562142

>>2556723
Practice. A lot. You'll build the muscle memory that makes it go faster. And use a thimble. Backstitch is the strongest stitch for making clothes.

>> No.2564108

>>2549906

Sewing is based. The first thing to do is get a used machine and learn how to check the timing and lubricate it. Then proceed to be stylish as fuck and let the naysayers waste their breath

>> No.2564297
File: 578 KB, 1028x1000, 1656189453138.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2564297

>>2562013
Thanks this will probably save me, I ran out of a fabric I used for the dark side and now the store does not carry it anymore so I have to correct vs redo. I might have to undo 13, 12, 11, 10 cause I fucked up those few squares real bad, but whatever its my quilt

>> No.2564366

>>2564297
So glad that was helpful. Would love to see some of your finished blocks, even if wonky. Log cabin is my favorite pattern.

>> No.2564508
File: 2.03 MB, 2536x1653, unnamed.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2564508

>>2556723

>> No.2565706

>>2558213
this is awesome. did you use a pattern? how long did it take you to make this? how did you taper the waist? ive always wanted to make a suit like this for when im working on my car

>> No.2565837
File: 679 KB, 699x988, remilia_scarlet.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2565837

>>2555914
anime is based, retard. i am a boomer tradie and i love anime in my free time.

>> No.2567324
File: 514 KB, 719x491, DF2ED463-A7F8-48C7-876C-42845CA28E05.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2567324

>>2534401
I found this project a few days ago and haven’t had the chance to try it. It looks promising though. It’s an ultralight single walled backpacking shelter. It offers minimal rain protection and no bug protection so it’s only suitable in very specific circumstances, but the idea here is the sewing. It looks pretty simple, with only a few long hems along the edges and minimal cutting and measuring. The website gives pretty good instructions too. I think the total materials cost is like $75.

https://www.stitchbackgear.com/articles/easy-to-make-shelter

>> No.2567325

>>2534401
>size 20
Holy shit. I like a fat ass but that’s just gross. Also the package is very misleading.

>> No.2569531

bump

>> No.2570612
File: 171 KB, 436x361, 1676586153188060.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2570612

I want to sew a large bag for my empty cans so when I take them in for recycling and stop using plastic garbage bags. I plan to use an old bed sheet for my first one but I've never made anything this large that needs to not crap out for its simple mission. Any suggestions for bag type or patterns?

>> No.2571054

anons, how the fuck does pattern adjustment work? all i can find online are specific adjustments for women's clothes

is there somewhere that actually breaks down the geometry of what's going on? something much more abstracted, based on geometry/topology

>> No.2572007
File: 1.36 MB, 3107x2266, bags.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2572007

>>2570612
many suggestions. possibly too many.

>unsauced stuff in pic
drawstrings, totes
https://www.sailrite.com/How-To-Projects-Guides/DIY-Projects/Hobby-Projects/Bags?order=custitem_popularity&type=DIY-Projects

Custom Pattern Generators
https://learnmyog.com/

>> No.2572019
File: 1.02 MB, 1550x3000, fitting books recc.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2572019

>>2571054
>is there somewhere that actually breaks down the geometry of what's going on? something much more abstracted, based on geometry/topology
short answer: lol. lmao.
long answer: no. still holding out hope on some level that i just haven't found it yet but abundant searching over years has led only to an grudging understanding of the many factors that go into WHY i've found jack shit. fundamental flaws within the system(s) necessarily exist because reasons.
>anons, how the fuck does pattern adjustment work?
piecemeal. non-linear incremental struggle. you piece it together bit by bit and eventually start being able to make sense of the whole. some pieces come from research, some from trial and error, and lots of what's out there can be a waste of your time. it's gay. here's hoping someone else calls me an idiot and directs us to some sort of holy grail that i'm all but convinced doesn't exist.

see >>2555633 for a handful of books geared toward men that are readily accessible. adding picrelated because womens' stuff gets more extensive coverage and at least some of it translates, even if only broadly or conceptually. 1 & 3 i've never been able to find digital copies of but physical used copies are cheap on amazon. the rest can all be downloaded easily enough. 3 & 4 are quite similar; that aside, the 1-5 numbering isn't wholly arbitrary. 1 is invaluable for determining what needs adjusted. it's also not a sewing book at all, which really oughta tell you something. 2 offers scope. it's comprehensive and granular. one or two chapters in the first third of it are trash. the bulk of the material is solid. 3 (&4) offers clarity. it's actionable and direct. it addresses the major stuff that will make the big differences. 5 offers fine tuning. it's methodical and granular. it is not comprehensive. then 6 obv is its own thing. might help greatly, might frustrate you further.

>> No.2572107

>>2572007
I drink a lot of beer so no tote will do the job.

Think I’ll just do a “Santa sack” style one because I’m literally going for a reusable garbage bag as I take 3 large bags in at a time.

>> No.2572122
File: 76 KB, 860x1300, E0828A3E-39C9-4B78-B125-7872E7C96744.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2572122

>>2572107
I suggest using some sort of mesh or net instead of a fabric. Unless you rinse the cans with water, some leftover beer or soda will spill into the bag, making sticky, smelly stains. One of the best methods I've seen people take their cans is by taking a generic garbage can from walmart and drilling large holes throughout like pic related, decreasing the weight and letting the cans drip onto the dirt floor. I've worked at these places and there's nothing more annoying than helping a dude empty his 10lb garbage bag filled with sticky mountain dew cans that glue to the plastic bag.

>> No.2572286
File: 21 KB, 360x450, 1652454528727.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2572286

>>2572122
Good advise, my cans do get rinsed out with water before the go into the bag so the little bit that spills out is not that nasty. I'll do mesh at some point when I can snag it for cheap.

Honestly loading my SUV with garbage bins and then hauling them into the depo to wait in line seems more difficult than fabric bags but I see where you are coming from.

>> No.2572353

>>2572286
i only suggested the bins because every yard i worked at/go to has a large area for you to back up your truck, and then somebody like me comes out to help you unload and weigh. maybe its because we used to get a lot of customers with well over 20lbs of cans and with literal truckloads. ive never actually seen people wait in a line for cans, that sounds like youre getting shitty service

>> No.2572380

Am planning on making a waxed cotton backpack. Anyone know a good brand for buying canvas?

>> No.2572807

>>2572353
Sounds like I’m a leaf who pays a despite when I buy cans and bottles and only get it back if I take them in. Also a women and a yard dude like you.

>> No.2572815

>>2572380
Check out Buckle Guy, they have a line of waxed canvas that is supposed to be top-notch.

>> No.2572970
File: 52 KB, 900x772, 7256_2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2572970

>"easy to use drop in bobbin!"
>shitty plastic bobbin holder pops out and crashes into needle constantly
>bobbin and needle timing is held together by two screws on a smooth shaft
Literally engineered to fail garbage

If you're looking for a reliable machine plastic singers are not it.

>> No.2573662

>>2572970
Singer went to shit. Decline in the perception of the brand lags behind the reduction in quality. There might be a few good ones, made by a Japanese company and brand labeled.
>>2572019
>>2571054
>short answer: lol. lmao.
More or less my conclusion. But home sewers have discovered projectors and digital patterns so there is still hope.

>> No.2574086

wtf is wrong with men? just watch a fucking youtube video

>> No.2574202
File: 384 KB, 610x853, ASUJVXI[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2574202

>>2571054
this anon here
i'm not dealing with this flat pattern women's bullshit any more
got a pal to do a photoscan of me, will now develop the pattern following this paper: https://faculty.sustech.edu.cn/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2022041214321621.pdf

stay tuned

>> No.2574221

>>2574202
Nice seeing another anon taking the autistic route to sewing and pattern design. The paper you found is from 2010, but you can use the citation mechanism to find follow up work by others. Or search the authors themselves to see if they continued on this topic.
Here is a non .cn link of the same paper, and you can check their other work.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/257001761_Garment_pattern_definition_development_and_application_with_associative_feature_approach

>> No.2574232

>>2574221
>>2574202
Guys this is pretty fucking cool. I'm a sewer and software developer. Do you happen to know if there is a common file format for storing patterns?

>> No.2574295

>>2574202
clo3d has a 3d model option that you can use, might be a bit friendlier than going it alone

>> No.2574866
File: 287 KB, 1634x1392, PBR96NK[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2574866

>>2574295
where's the fun in that?

looks more like a suit of armour than a shirt, and i couldn't really get the armholes to project correctly so i guess i'll figure that part out once i cut the cloth

judging from the deformation plots, i'm going to end up with a crease across my chest and tension around the waist

not expecting this shirt to work, but it'll give some pointers on how to improve the method

>> No.2574944
File: 58 KB, 736x795, 3099005425a046233a1b944128eb0126.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2574944

>>2574866
What this neglects to take into account are the curved armscyes (back curve deeper than front for ease of movement), wear ease, and back yoke/darts.

>> No.2575154

>>2534432
>Yes. Finding a pattern for a male was hell.
Joann Fabrics in the US literally has a section of the store with pattern books.
You look thru the books in the sections for men, which are usually way slimmer than the sections for women, and see if any of the designs look good.
Then write down the pattern numbers that interest you and see if they actually have the pattern in stock.

>> No.2575334

>>2574944
the side seams are very unconventional with this approach, running forward from the armpits to the waist then straight down.
shouldn't need darts since the back widths should just be correct

images i've posted so far don't really show my slightly unusual body shape - standard chest and shoulders, but very deep shoulderblades and a very narrow waist, then marilyn munroe tier hip width.
if i want a shirt to fit nicely to my back and then tuck in cleanly to my trousers, i have to take a ton of width out of the back

>> No.2575346
File: 53 KB, 308x556, bknX5wh[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2575346

>>2575334
picrel

>> No.2575468

What's the right material to go with for making breezy summer pants that's not also some degree of translucent? I want to deconstruct and duplicate some linen and broadcloth stuff from China that's comfy, but not substantial enough that I feel comfortable going to get the mail.

>> No.2575470

>>2575346
I honestly think the angled side seam just below the armscye is going to cause you grief, since it introduces a bias stretch that will likely make the sides not hang straight and cause wrinkling across the chest. A curved back yoke with shoulder darts will accommodate prominent shoulder blades, without adding significant fabric at the back, while front princess seams and waist darts in the back will give you a waist fit with room for a wider hip, esp if the hip room needs to be mainly for your butt. I hope you do a test muslin and post it. I want to see how this works in actual fabric.

>> No.2575471
File: 70 KB, 800x600, images (18).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2575471

>>2575468
Try seersucker or cotton double gauze

>> No.2575475

>>2575471
Does the sun still shine through that? I don't want to advertise the color and shape of my draws or anything else underneath.

>> No.2575477

>>2575475
Not with seersucker. With the gauze, it'll depend on how thick it is. You can always line or underline the gauze with batiste

>> No.2575486
File: 51 KB, 308x556, 1678083825258463.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2575486

>>2575346
Blue line here would be a standard vertical sideseam. Red line is a front princess seam that allows for waist/hip shaping while eliminating the horizontal chest seam. Just a suggestion.

>> No.2575646

a copy of a ww1 pattern book by R.L Shep that I never expected to be able to see was available at my local college's library.
I've spent a lot of time and a good few bedsheets fighting with pattern drafting, so I'm excited to try again.

>> No.2575665

>>2575346
i've cut the front sides of this and it's quite clear that the shoulders are too short - this is because i defined the armhole planes as rising purely vertical from armpit. will have to cant them out to the side on the next iteration.

>>2575486
my brother i know we're men talking about sewing but i'm not going to wear a princess seam

>> No.2576243
File: 28 KB, 514x543, 825.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2576243

>>2575665
My brother, what compels you to assume I am a man? Call them Viennese seams, if the "princess" offends you. There are only a handful of ways to accommodate a pear-shaped body type in shirtmakingn if you want a slim fit.
t. 63 year old retired female tailor

>> No.2576330

>>2576243
post shoe on head

>> No.2576348

>>2576243
Okay, that's cool, but did you find this place while you were running a swingers' porn site? If not, then you're not the coolest dude to frequent this place.

>> No.2576360
File: 58 KB, 600x440, She-actually-did.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2576360

>>2576330
>>2576243
This is why I love this place.

>> No.2576765

>>2534432
>>2534401
fashion desig bachelor here,
there is no one way of sewing, its a lot like cooking actually: most can do the basics themselves at home, and practice + experimentation makes perfect :)

a great way to find patterns, is to deconstruct garments and trace those. Take a worn out hoodie or pant you like, and cut/rip the seams to turn the garment into flat surfaces. boom, there is your pattern :)

then you can trace the pattern to paper, i prefer thin cardboard as it isnt that fagile (i have adhd)

Most fast-fashion items are based on average measurements (of ideal-bodied white people in the 1930´s) so naturally most fashion wont look nice on most people. Go for older garments for inspiration and more tailored fitt, i really reccomend going thriftshopping and finding a garment that FITS nicely, then cop that shit and turn it into a pattern.

>> No.2577175
File: 1.31 MB, 1616x1752, 1BfDjUr[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2577175

>>2575346
so, the back fits really well and the angled side seams dont look too weird

>> No.2577177
File: 1.25 MB, 1038x2048, 5EqIBAI[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2577177

>>2577175
the front, however

>> No.2577193

>>2577175
Unless you're making this from lycra you need to add some ease.

>> No.2577205

>>2577177
Try extending your arms forward like you're reaching, to see how the back feels. Looks like there's no ease whatsoever across the back.

>> No.2577434
File: 134 KB, 782x861, uncaD7x[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2577434

>>2577193
ease added
last time, i drew this basically skin tight on the scan (with obvious consequences)

also going to play around with the surface patches on the chest, and give the front sides a curve at the button line this time (so they meet in the middle when wrapped around - they were straight last time hence the gap in the middle)

>> No.2577441
File: 10 KB, 1059x833, BiYcF7X[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2577441

>>2577434
curved front seam

>> No.2577660

How deep horizontally should an armscye be?
I've recently begun drafting decent sleeve caps, but I'm still figuring out how armscyes work.
Once I get a good depth, I'll be golden...

>> No.2577697
File: 5 KB, 516x520, armscye.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2577697

>>2577660
There's no single measure for armscye depth. It varies by person, wear ease, and design ease. To figure out your personal armscye measure, find your shoulder point and mark that. Tuck a ruler horizontally under your armpit and measure front and back, from shoulder point around to center bottom of your arm pit. Front should be shorter measure than back. Add together to get total. Add ease to front/back measures as you prefer for height of armscye. Higher armscye gives more ease of movement.

>> No.2577712

>>2550146
I'd find new friends if I were you.
There's some cool people out there, and in this thread.

>> No.2578087

>>2577434
How do you approach adding ease with your system? You are using a 3D model right? Do you make your 3D model bigger in certain areas and fit to that instead?
I suppose just scaling in all directions wouldn't work because that would also increase shoulder width, which would ruin the fit.

>> No.2578218

>>2550146
Pick and choose who you tell these thing to. People like this >>2534419 >>2534437 >>2555914 henpecking and backbiting of men trying to expand their skills and interests on /diy/ of all places, don't need an excuse. Reminds me of my mother screeching when she wouldn't cook and would watch the fucking TV, but when my brother and I would use the kitchen and make dinner for ourselves
>Nooo, you can't just make a pizza! Why don't you make something good?
>haha, mozzarella go brrr

>> No.2579908

>>2573662
redpill me on projectors?

>> No.2579972

Another day, another "sort of" fitting dress shirt draft.
Did it straight out of a drafting book as well- this can't be that hard, I'm just having to get my skill up.
If I can't get a good breast measure myself, I'll just use the proportions table and keep going until I get something that works!

>> No.2579974

>>2579972
Unfortunately you will never get it perfect straight off of drafting. You're going to have to modify the block you end up with to fit.

>> No.2579979

>>2579974
Doubtlessly - but I want to get as close as I can before I start getting *creative*- my results are much more reliable when done by math then by feel, even if that's where all the magic happens.
And if all else fails, I've got a particularly well-fitting shirt from my local thrift store to rend apart and copy. But that would defeat the point, since I want to learn, not have a dinky shirt.

>> No.2579986

>>2579979
Are you measuring chest circumference as one number, divided into two for front/back, or measuring them as two separate numbers? You'll get a truer-to-you measure doing them separately, and having someone else help you, so they're not distorted by you holding the tape in place.

>> No.2579993

>>2579986
I had a friend measure me once, all in one motion.
Dividing it would be a smart move- getting a half back measure would help me get the back fitted, which is where I've been having recent trouble. I'll draft a friend next time I see one this week.
I've been trying out back darts but I don't have enough experience with them to really use them effectively- I'm never sure what effect they'll have until I put it in. That one's just a matter of practice.

>> No.2580183

Not clothing but anyone who could point me in the right direction? I’m looking to make two roll top bags to fit onto a motorcycle. I need some light (doesn’t have to be super light) but rain and UV proof material. I tried PVC fabric initially but it seems my sewing machine (1908 singer) doesn’t like it, it always jams with a ‘nest’ of thread underneath. I thought the machine was just too old but recently I sewed some other materials (bedsheet, felt, denim) and it went smoothly with no jams at all. So what material is ‘easy on the sewing machine’ but can be used outside in rain?

>> No.2580220

>>2580183
Look around at diy camping gear communities. There should be a ton of info on suitable fabrics and probably even patterns.

Also "easy on a sewing machine" depends on a lot of stuff. There are different needles and threads for doing different things, you can adjust tensions and stitches and speed.

>> No.2580224

>>2580183
PVC, and PVC-coated fabrics, are "sticky" and often won't feed smoothly under the metal presser foot. That, and the type of needle you use, are the likely culprit of the birds-nesting. If you put a sheet of tissue paper like for wrapping presents on top of the fabric when you sew, that'll help a lot. You may need another sheet of tissue underneath as well. Try using a microtex needle, which is sharp and narrow. Also try lengthening your stitch. As for fabric, look for Ottertex waterproof canvas, PUL (polyurethane laminate) or nylon.

>> No.2580249

>>2580220
>>2580224
Thanks both of you, I’ll look into it and see if I can do it. Will post if it succeeds

>> No.2580832
File: 494 KB, 2880x2880, 20230314_230952.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2580832

>>2578087
i'm basically taking cross sections of my body from the scan, fitting some smooth curves around them that approximate my cross sections, then creating the surfaces between them as per that paper

took a while to get around to getting the updated version cut out, but it fits a lot better

the curved front actually allows it to close properly, and despite looking very tight it's not being pulled taut against the body much - just kind of sitting in the right place

armhole shape is still a bit of an issue, but it was easy enough to trim the physical pieces to give enough room, which i guess i can copy back to the pattern

otherwise i'm pretty happy with this, it fits nicely across my back and tucks in to trousers cleanly. just needs maybe a teeny tiny bit more ease at the upper back and a bit less over the belly

will put stitches into this one tomorrow and then start figuring out how sleeves work

also not sure how exactly to add a yoke to this, or why i would even need one

>> No.2580851

>>2580832
Still needs more ease, bro, add more everywhere, don't take any out. Try sititng down and reaching for something in that, or driving a car or something. It isn't going to look tailored, it's just going to look too small.

>> No.2580877
File: 795 KB, 2880x2880, 1678835429662232.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2580877

>>2580851
I agree with this, especially after the sleeves go in. Armholes are too small both front and back and possibly too high. Look at how the draglines point to the bottom of the armscye (red).That indicates binding. Turquoise lines point to areas that need more overall room because the body is pushing against the fabric tightly and causing tension. You need to add wear ease all around and scoop out the armscyes more.

>> No.2581017

>>2580877
yeah i hadn't cut the armholes out in this photo, they were still the raw undersized ones

the creases at the hips were more of a symptom of my torso being twisted & how i tucked in the shirt, it laid very flat and smooth otherwise

i think that a nicer fabric with a bit more stretch will improve things

>> No.2581252
File: 376 KB, 1079x697, 1582053572165.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2581252

Do I go to the sewing school? Basic course is 3 months, but it cost almost as much as sewing setup I want(machine and other shit).
Can I learn how to strap stuff together oh youtube?

>> No.2581291
File: 31 KB, 300x400, s-l400.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2581291

I want to dye these Bundeswehr Splitterschutzweste to light urban grey or dark blue for a more civilian look. I've no clue about dyeing atall. Reading up about it and watching some yt vids but am bit overwhelmed with dye options and lots of unsuccesful stories. I think the cloth is impregnated with some rain liner or something. Thx

>> No.2581353

>>2581291
figured it out myself.
>remove the protective padding obviously
>wash the vest with bleach and softener to remove impregnated coating (hopefully)
>put vest into a bleach bath to lighten the color (hopefully)
>back into washing machine to rinse it with water only
>dye it with rit all porpuse dye since it's mostly cotton, don't forget the salt
>rinse with cold water and/or apply rit color stay
I guess I gonna try it this way, still open to other ideas

>> No.2581385

>>2543030
My great grandpa was one of the best tailors in paris france for women's clothing, dresses, coats, you name it. He was a manly guy who had a pet bear.

>> No.2581395

>>2581252
Depends what kind of person you are. Have you taught yourself other complex/tedious things before? Are you able to get past the points where you get frustrated to learn and overcome?

DESU the course will be pretty basic, you'll probably spend the first 2 weeks on machine setup and just stitching around curves or whatever, then you'll make a pillowcase and some reversible tote bags, you might have a basic garment by the end of the course but meh.

>> No.2582408
File: 109 KB, 480x640, M8053 ruffles.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2582408

>>2581252
You don't need sewing school. Back like 18 years ago when I learned to sew, I completely taught myself without youtube, helpful websites, etc. I just got a pattern at the fabric store, got all the "ingredients" for it, and I figured it out step by step with the pattern. I made a lot of mistakes, but I learned a lot! The thing about sewing is that you just have to DO it to learn it. So if I were you, I'd get that sewing machine setup and just start sewing. Pic rel is the last dress that I made myself.

>> No.2582434
File: 132 KB, 540x720, Vintage cactus40.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2582434

>>2581252
It's absolutely possible to teach yourself to sew garments without going to school. Invest in the sewing machine, good fabric scissors, an iron and ironing board, thread, needles (both machine and hand), a thimble, and bobbins, and a good quality tailor's tape (fabric tape measure).
Then get muslin. A lot of muslin. Go to the library and check out sewing books, or look at thrift stores. Read, practice. Read, practice. Once you're comfortable with your machine, buy an easy pattern and try it out. More practice. Rinse, repeat. I'm entirely self-taught, before the advent of youtube. It mostly boils down to just trying things out and practing skills.

>> No.2582478

do you guys have any recommended sites for patterns? Searching for shit online really fucking sucks lately, and i'd rather get tried and tested sources for them.

>>2582434
does internet archive have sewing magazines and books? That's the first thing that came to mind that could possibly have info (aside from looking for shit in the library)

>> No.2582479

i can just make the sleeves on a sweater longer by cutting a section into the sleeves and grafting more fabric in a tube on that sleeve, right?

>> No.2582569

>>2582434
I'd like to add to this and say buy the biggest cutting mat you can fit and a good rotary cutter. Scissors a shit for cutting multiple layers of fabric, I fucking love my rotary cutters.

>> No.2582593

>>2582569
I'm glad they work for you. I've tried every kind on the market and just hate how inaccurate they are, especially on tight small curves like cuff edges, and on slippery fabrics like chiffon or silk charmeuse. I use heavy shears on denim, canvas and twill.

>> No.2582613

>>2582478
Patternreview has a good selection of patterns from the Big 4 plus a number of indie makers. You can filter by category, brand, etc., read reviews of the pattern, and then either buy from them or go to somewhere like Joann crafts for the Big 4 plus Burda, and get the pattern a little cheaper. Etsy often has vintage patterns on sale, sometimes as paper or as digital download. I haven't bought a pattern in years (I draft my own), but big sewing stores like Joanns have pattern books you can look thru. https://sewing.patternreview.com/shop

Inernet Archive has lots of old sewing books. Some are rental. Search sewing or home sewing to pull those up.

>> No.2582622

>>2574202
>>2574866
There was a thread where guy who wanted to make a life-sized GF doll, and I found there's a website called plushify that does a decent job of turning models into fabric templates. It could help if you want something less blocky.

>> No.2582674

>>2582408
cute dress anon

>> No.2582694
File: 71 KB, 640x640, stylish wraps V.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2582694

>>2582478
McCalls, Simplicity, Vogue, Butterick <-- those are "the big four". You can look online at the whole pattern catalog. Take your measurements and make sure you get the right size envelope for your size.
sewingpatternreview dot com <-- you have to make an account to see reviews from older than 6 months, but it's worth it and they don't spam your inbox at all.
Another thing I really like is japanese pattern books, but these are for the more advanced seamstress/seamster.
Don't forget to pick up some double-sided tracing paper and a smooth tracing wheel for marking darts and seam lines and things on your fabric! Everyone always overlooks that when they are starting out. Also, my recommendation is to skip the "marking pencils" and go straight to the quilting notions section and get a nice chalk set with multiple colors.

>> No.2582725

>>2571054
If you're down to experiment, the easiest way to do so would be a program like Marvelous Designer or Clo3d (they're the same program under different names marketed to different industries). Allows you to see stress points and such, and iterate extremely quickly. Easily torrentable.

>> No.2582890

How hard would it be to taper a pair of jeans? I was thinking about doing it to a pair of jeans that I have but I’m not sure if it would be worth the effort after I saw how they fit.
I know that my machine can handle the thickness of the denim, but I don’t want to potentially ruin the jeans. Can I just bring them in a bit on the inside below the knee?

>> No.2582922

>>2581291
>Yeah, nylon blend camo does not dye well
you're not getting a lighter color easily

>> No.2582938
File: 136 KB, 720x1208, IMG_20230318_192506.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2582938

>>2582922
I looked into this matter, some dyed it unsuccesfully on the outside with simplicol, typical cltohing dye for natural fibers which you can buy here in Germany. They reported the dye only affected the inside of the vest, further, they didn't treat the outside. You would have to remove the rain protection. Other, more effective methods included textile spray. But this is not what I'm trying to achieve. Now digging trough dyeing products rit brand dye seems to be the best option. Had to order it from US and UK, gonna take some days.
>pic rel
as explained here >>2581353 I will just try that, but instead of a bleach bath, I'm going to use rit color remover. Gonna mix the marine and denim blue 1:1. Would be cool If it comes out in dark blue flecktarn

>> No.2582942
File: 401 KB, 1080x1158, Screenshot_20230318_122842_Chrome.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2582942

>>2582890
Couple of things to consider: are the legs straight or flared? Straight legs are easier to taper. Flared should be tapered with the flare angle. Is the inseam flat felled? See pic related to figure that out. If so, taper the out seam/side seam, unless you have a flat fell foot for your machine and you'recomfortableusing it. Can your machine handle stitching the multiple layers on the hem? Put on the pants, and have someone pin the outseam up from the hem to about 2-3 inches below the knee, blending the taper angle smoothly into the existing seam.

>> No.2583460

>>2579908
Point projector downwards onto fabric, and either directly rotary cut your pattern if you are brave, or trace it and then cut.

>> No.2583564
File: 1.49 MB, 844x1128, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2583564

>>2579908
the best resource for this is a facebook group called projectors for sewing. Basically you find and mount a cheap projector (there are short-throw options and stuff as well), and you use a test pattern to get it mounted square with your cutting mat. Then you use figure out the correct magnification factor to use in your pdf viewer so that patterns will show up actual size. Then it's just a matter of weighing down the fabric and cutting.

>> No.2583565
File: 1.41 MB, 844x1128, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2583565

>>2583564
Works great, I'll never go back to pinning patterns and using scissors. I do need to get some better weights though, the coffee mugs aren't ideal.

>> No.2583627
File: 978 KB, 1500x2000, washer weights.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2583627

>>2583565
I started using 2" metal washers for weights years ago, and really like them. You can stack them for more weight, stay in place, easy to move, don't interfere with cutting.

>> No.2583704

>>2583627
Oh, good tip. I was gonna look into getting some lead fishing weights and 3d printing little smooth enclosures for them or something but taht looks like an easy win.

>> No.2583848

>>2582942
Thank you. The jeans have a single stitch seam and are straight leg. They are selvedge as well, which is why I was thinking of doing the alterations on the inseam side.

>> No.2583849

>>2583848
Yes, for sure. Keep the selvage intact if at all possible.

>> No.2584055

>>2582938
man... the british seller refunded my pay, can't get both the color stay and color remover anywhwere else cheaper

>> No.2584513

bump for sleeve advice
>how do i design a two part sleeve?
>how do i actually MAKE a teo part sleeve?
>do i need seam allowance around the armscye?
>is it easier to attach the sleeves with a machine or by hand?

>> No.2584525

>>2584513
Read through some books on drafting and see what the options are. Here's everthing I've grabbed: mega dot nz/folder/TwUliBRT#tdAFgHeBEvKTMo2U-gPlfw

Patternmaking for Fashion Design would be the 2 ton elephant of drafting books.

>> No.2584589

>>2583460
>>2583564
dunno how to use faceberg. 70" from surface of ceiling to surface of table, cutting mat 36"×57", table is on casters and doesn't ever move far but isn't stationary. i supposedly have enough clearance for a mini, i don't know that i'd get full coverage over the entire mat without a short throw, and no idea if the wheels negate any advantage of mounting permanently.

>>2584055
do you know the fiber content? you said mostly cotton. is the rest nylon or polyester? color remover = bleach, assuming there's no wool or silk hiding in there. color stay = salt (for the cotton content) and vinegar (if nylon) or ??? (if poly). heat is the crucial element here. a suitably large enameled or stainless steel cooking pot will make life easy. a long sturdy pair of tongs wouldn't hurt either.

>> No.2584628

>>2583627
Yes! I also use metal washers --but I wrapped cute grosgrain ribbon around them and hot glued the ends in place. Then I don't have to worry about the metal turning colors etc. Also the ribbon is super cute! I used different sizes too, so I have some smaller ones. Pinning patterns on is such a waste of time.

>> No.2584636

>>2584628
I'm way to lazy (time efficient) to wrap mine. I have like 80 to do full cutting single layer layouts. I work a lot with silks and chiffon, which are a nightmare to pin and cut accurately.

>> No.2584678

>>2584589
I asume it's mostly cotton, once all my dye is here I gonna post results

>> No.2584695

>>2584636
80 washers is a bit much. I'd put on a fun movie and wrap them up though. Don't you worry about the metal staining that expensive silk? I had someone just the other day ask me to sew them something in silk, which they wanted to order and give me to work with --and then they saw the current price of silk and noped out. Where do you get your silk?

>> No.2584715

>>2584695
The washers are stainless steel, and aren't exposed to chemicals. They look exactly the same as they did when I bought them 10+ years ago, so nope--not worried at all that they'll be reactive on any fabric. I buy silk from lots of different stores/vendors. It depends on the type of fabric, the color, etc. Nobody carries everything in one place. I laugh when people say fabric's expensive. They're so used to cheap stuff from stores.

>> No.2585243
File: 76 KB, 1200x630, 635707474036652892-AP-FILM-REVIEW-TED-2-74026388.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2585243

>>2584525
Bless you anon

>> No.2587148
File: 22 KB, 400x300, $_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2587148

I can't find the manual for this fucking thing. It's a White 4041. Google finds me a manual for some other machine White made also called 4041, like they reused the fucking model number

>> No.2587240

I am taking a sewing class over the course of the next month and they recommended looking into buying a sewing machine for home use.

Any recommendations on what I should look for in a decent starting machine? Or any specific recommendations on any individual system?

>> No.2587275

>>2587240
If sewing is something you're going to stick with, invest in a mid-grade machine. A Pfaff Passport 2 is a good one to start with. Janome is a great brand as well. Brother machines are no where as reliable as they used to be. Neither are the newer Singers. Too many pladtic parts.

>> No.2587324

>>2584678
meh... The vests got slightly darker, gonna redo it eventually and mix in black and blue.
>>2587148
I have a Viktoria of which I couldn't find the exact manual either, found the PDF of a different model but it worked out sofar anyways.

>> No.2587393
File: 240 KB, 1200x1600, Snapchat-1299352624.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2587393

just finished this linen shirt

>> No.2587394

>>2587393
self drafted and first shirt I made so pardon the imperfection, but I'm pretty happy with it anyways

>> No.2587413

>>2587394

take in the sides jeesus fuck, muffin top mountain over here (other than that good job)

>> No.2587423
File: 900 KB, 2271x1647, IMG_20230326_144101.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2587423

>>2587324
left from 1992, middle 96 and right 95 but best condition overall. I colored them at the same time in one batch. Maybe the left one soaked in the dye the best because of it's age and the protective coating decreased the most? The color remover I put them in for 4 hours did nothing noticable, can't buy original rit color remover from overseas. Once my rit dye is here I gonna try it again with additional black dye for a dark blue.

>> No.2587426
File: 2.18 MB, 1677x2280, IMG_20230326_144942.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2587426

>>2587423
this label on the inside was white before, from the looks of it it definetively was not enough dye in total.

>> No.2587429

>>2587393
How are those stairs legal?

>> No.2587431
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2587431

>>2587426
backside, if the brighter green spots would turn dark blue and the brown ones black I'd be happy

>> No.2587447
File: 1.42 MB, 2000x750, bag and wallet.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2587447

>>2587240
I also have a Janome (heavy duty) and it's been solid for the past few years. I mostly sew heavier materials, but here's a lightweight duffel bag and wallet I made with it. I need to make the wallet a little wider, when it's fixed I'll post the pattern. It's just one rectangle.

>> No.2587503

>>2587413
desu its more of a work/outdoors shirt so I dont mind it that much, I privileged comfort and ease of movement
but I agree its not the best look. I'll consider taking in on the next one thanks

>> No.2587504

>>2587429
idk my dad built the house himself, the stairs are actually pretty tough, nobody ever fell off in 16 years. they're built quite deep into the wall and the steps themselves are very thick and have a steel anti-slipping plate on top.
if you're not a complete retard or handicapped there's no reason to worry

>> No.2587576

>>2587240
If you're mainly looking to sew clothes, find a machine that has an adjustable needle position (left to right). Makes a huge difference for ease of topstitching and edgestitching. Most machines have a buttonhole option. Also a big time-saver. Being able to adjust the tension on the feeddogs is good for working with different fabric weights (denim/twill/canvas vs silk/batiste etc.).

>> No.2587603

>>2587240
Brother CS7000X if you're in the states, easy.

I'm in the EU and have an Brother Innov-is A50 and it's more or less equivalent to that but more expensive because europe tax.

Either of these will handle whatever you throw at them and have enough of the features you actually need (auto needle down, position adjustment, the speed control is super nice), without just loading up on 20,000 stitches you'll never use.

>> No.2587724
File: 1.78 MB, 1633x484, nausicaa_tapestry_1_by_kinnoyu_dambxgl.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2587724

Not sure if this is the proper thread so my apologies in advance,

What type of 'textile' would you call this? A tapestry? An embroidery? A quilt? (Ignore the filename, the place I found the image called it a tapestry but I'm not 100% sure). I'm trying to find out because I'd like to make a version of this in real-life, but it's kind of throwing me both because not much is shown in the movie and also because there are 'dots' all over it.

>> No.2587738
File: 300 KB, 1080x1067, Screenshot_20230326_161251_Gallery.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2587738

>>2587724
This looks like painted/dyed aida cloth
It's a fairly stiff woven fabric with small evenly spaced holes. Usually used for counted embrodery like cross stitch or hardanger. I don't see any embroidery on this at all, just paint or ink. So maybe it was prepared for embroidery, but never worked. You could call it a tapestry I guess, just unworked. Definitely not a quilt.

>> No.2587764

>>2587724
Aida cloth, absolutely, that has been painted on. Does not require any sewing. You can find it in the needlework section of your craft store, or you can sometimes find bolts of it in the fabric store.

>> No.2587779

>>2587738
>>2587764
Thank you

>> No.2588684
File: 1.89 MB, 3000x2000, BMW-M2-Competition-Schirmer-Racing-schwarz-NO-CARBON-00010.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2588684

hey jiggers, not sure if this is the right general for it but since it looks like it has been sewn, i thought i would try here
does anybody know what material the light grey door pull in this pic is?

>> No.2588971

>>2588684
Either gonna be leather or some kind of faux leather like vinyl.

>> No.2590616

I'd like to start sewing my own active wear, in stretch wovens and knits too I guess. Do I need a serger? Or is a regular zig zag machine, or a 3 step zig zag (never tried this and the machine that has it is iffy) sufficient? I've got various regular machines in various states of repair, but no serger and haven't seen any good used deals lately (missed out on a few smoking deals a few months back :( )

>> No.2590619

Anyone ever use pattern from this site: https://www.moldesunicose.com/otros-paises/ ?

Came across it when looking for men's patterns, all the US/European pattern companies have fuck all, like some unisex t-shirt and pajama pants and little else.

>> No.2590848

>>2590616
A serger/overlock is going to give you a cleaner stronger seam and edge finish than just a zigzag stitch, esp for active wear that has a higher lycra content and possible 4-way stretch. Most sergers have a differential feed option that's great for working with knits, so you get smooth flat seams. I have a 2-3-4 overlock that I use for finishing/joining everything from knits to denim to fine fabrics like batiste. I think you'll be happier with the results using a serger than just a straight sewing machine.

>> No.2592002
File: 1.74 MB, 1728x2252, IMG_20230402_140418.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592002

asked in qtdndtot but maybe somebody here is into dyeing >>2591998

How to treat rust of your dyeing pot

>> No.2592013
File: 197 KB, 723x533, 4530026D-2B44-422E-A0D3-8C2196C3EF00.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592013

>>2572380
>waxed canvas backpack
Sail rite has a very large selection, pic related.

>> No.2592098

>>2587393
close up of the collar please

>> No.2592115

>>2592002
POR-15 for treating the rust. they've a high heat Engine Enamel paint that oughta be worth looking into as well. check brewer supply places for big ss vessels. boil kettles make for great dye pots.

how's the conductive heater compare to stovetop? any downsides?

>> No.2592185
File: 295 KB, 720x1520, Screenshot_20230402-213053.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2592185

>>2592115
Gotta find a similiar cheap paint like this then, in Germany. Was already stupid enough to get rit products. Large pots are so expensive, especially stainless steel. This barrel won't fit on our kitchen's stove top, not to mention my wife, she would turn furious if I'd put an old rusty motor oil barrel full of textile decolouring chemicals on. Hmmmmm industrial soup... We've have this small single plate conductive heater leftover, filled the barrel 3/4 with water, so about 45 litres? It didn't boil, but hot enough to scold my hands. Actually didn't dye, but used one pack of rit colour remover, I'm
>>2582938
>>2587423
>>2587426
>>2587431
the rit colour remover actually came, but the vests are kinda back to their original colour lulz. Atleast for the second try of dyeing, I got a way to heat up the water the whole time, should give more intense results. Also cleaned the barrel with a citric acid solution and immediatly dried it with a towel, it seems fine for now.

>> No.2592189

>>2592002
get a big fucking garbage bag to line it with, like how everybody else does it.

>> No.2592190

>>2592189
wouldn't that melt on the bottom from the conductive heat? I placed a painted steel plate onto the heater for testing, it started to smoke badly and melt the paint where it was in contact with

>> No.2593138

Okay so as someone who has never used a serger before, would an industrial be a bad idea? All the used home machines are overpriced or ancient and busted, near me right now. But there's a Brother MA4-B581 in decent shape and decently priced. Would that be a good machine? Or am I better off buying a cheap new home serger? I don't give a shit about aesthetics or fanciful functions.

>> No.2593166

>>2593138
If you've got the space and it does the type of overlocking you need, go for it. I think most people would do well with industrial stuff if they had the room and cash. Just remember you do need to be able to get it serviced at some stage.

>> No.2593200

>>2593166
This. Industrial machines are generally made to a higher standard, in that they can hold up under heavy use, with minimal maintenance. They just tend to be larger. Make sure you can get the appropriate replacement needles and blades for the machine though.

>> No.2593202

Have any of you worked extensively with wool felt fabric? I got a few metres of nice heavy wool felt that I want to make up into a coat. What pre-treatment does it need? Does it perforate at the seams with short stitches? Cotton or polyester thread?

>> No.2593256

>>2545950
Might as well. Every old barn in America has two or three old Singers that will outlive multicellular life. Go get you one.

>> No.2593274

>>2593166
>>2593200
Sounds good then. Replacement parts seem to be readily available as well as the service manual. And if needed there's an old as balls family owned service shop down the road I've dealt with in the past, though mostly deal with industrials and businesses but they also deal with individuals.
Guess it just comes down to whether I can make the space for it.
Thanks bros. :D

>> No.2593277
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2593277

>>2556535

>> No.2594630

It's been a good bread, bros. Thanks for all the info.

>> No.2594812

>>2594630
Yeah, let's do it again real soon.

>> No.2594905

I am looking to make a tshirt and it just hit me that the fabric I have might be too thin and end might end up being see-through when wet with sweat.
>What is the appropriate thickness for a shirt in the tropics without getting cooked in it?
>Is there a way to estimate the thickness(opacity) of fabric by eyeballing it?

>> No.2595035

>>2594905
If the fabric vendor lists weight, look for something in the 9-12 oz range. That's a medium weight that shouldn't generally be see-thru when wet. Of course light colors may still be an issue with that. Best practice though is to order a swatch before buying, so you can actually see/feel it before shelling out the shekels.