/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2581294

>>2581275
10kg for $100
I can only find their 5kg for $75 and it's sold out.
>>2581301
Appropriate and timely first post.

>>2581302
https://www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-10kg-pla-filament-1-75mm-fdm-3d-printer-filament

>>2581304
>Normal delivery takes 90 days, depending on the location
It's the old DealExtreme business model, they wait until they can collect enough orders for a distributor order in China, then they buy and ship it. This means they have no capitol or credit in China. In other words, little Guanxi.

Hey, got a friend who needs his first printer. What's the consensus on the various Ender 3 models in 2023? Money is fairly tight but I think he's going to want a bed leveling probe from the factory.

>>2581327
Unless your friend really likes to tinker and you are activly trying to discourage him from the hobby, the best Ender is literally any printer that isn't an Ender.
Find him something that doesn't need assembly and will print out of the box. I've been directing newbies to the Malyan M200 on Amazon as babby's first printer as it will give a good print 20 minutes after it's delivered. But their are others. just not Enders.

>>2581327
>Creality
Don't do that. I suggest a Kingroon KP3S Pro or a Sovol SV06. The KP3S doesn't have auto bed leveling but the SV06 does. The only issue with the SV06 is that it requires you to lube the bearing and rails because Sovol cheaped out during that part. The KP3S Pro is like $200 and the SV06 is about $270 after an Amazon coupon. I don't suggest ever buying directly from the companies that make the printers because they're shady chinks most of the time when it comes to after sales support.

>>2581346
Calling him a tinkerer is a huge understatement.
The fairly standardized machines and huge community are very much what he needs. I really just need more up-to-date info on the various models of Ender 3.
>>2581355
I enjoy my Ender 3 Pro.

>>2581346
Ender is a solid choice with much better QC than literal who chink brands like Sovol or Chingroon. Even a woman can take an Ender out of a box and start printing with it within a couple hours.

anyone wanna go in on a shipping container of esun?

>buy some pla on amazon
>it's actually petg
>again
It's not actually giving me issues but it's strange that this has happened more than once.

>>2581355
problem with the sv06 is that it's a new product. i, and a lot of people, have issues with the bed leveling.
if i could confidently say that the ABL worked correctly for everyone, it would be a great buy.
the bearings are cheap shit bearings yeah sure, but it's a one time thing to just clean them with alcohol and pack em with lithium grease. then just square everything up when you put it back together, and theoretically it would be a great printer for the price.
but the bed leveling is fucked for me, and for other people.

>>2581356
>>2581357
Creality QC hasn't been great in the past few years. If this was 2019, I would suggest an Ender 3.
>>2581372
True, yeah. The SV06 has a few issues like the ones you mentioned and apparently it has Z axis wobble too. The thing is the chinks at sovol basically copied the mk3s since it's open source but instead of being $800/$1100 it's $270. I still think the best buy would be the KP3S since auto bed leveling isn't needed on a bed that small and you can just install a 3dtouch or bltouch later if you want.

>>2581376
>KP3S
yeah i dunno about that. 180x180x180 is small and i don't think that's a good thing. most larger prints are all standardized around an ender 3 volume of 220x220x250. that's 50% more surface area, and double the volume.
plus that fucker is going to be so wobbly. when the print head is all the way at the far end the moment arm on the base would be nuts. i don't think that would be a good buy.
you can get an ender 3 clone for the price of that thing, and it'll be bigger and more rigid. voxelab aquila x2, 180$. it's "fine" it's an ender clone. and probably about the cheapest i'd go on a printer while still being reasonable for the money.

>>2581306
i need to start dropshipping. it's free money.

Got a clone prusa mini+ to run aside my mk3s+

It's fairly decent for the price and the fact that I just crashed the nozzle into the bed the first thing after assembly.

That is all.

i can smell my printer. not burning or anything it's just a weird smell. it's only PLA do i need to ventilate this tiny fuckin room?

>>2581408
try cleaning the nozzle and see if you have it leaking on the heating block, if you've swapped nozzles it could need to be tightened, or it could be the bowden tube. Sometimes it leaks out and burns.

>>2581415
i've had some underextrusion problems too, had to crank up the flow rate, so makes sense i've probably fucked something up around there i just can't work out what it is. thanks i'll check all that stuff again

>>2581370
>peak green ABS
>light blue ABS

Peak green disappeared from the US as soon as I heard about it (coincidence) and can't find it anywhere exist aliexpress once in a while.

>>2581397
>wobbly

Bro not even the anon you respond to, I have kp3s, actually its right next to me being worked on getting endoscope attached to the nozzle. The arm is legit stiff. Look at it in the pic, the piece the linear rail is attached to is one big piece, with the v wheels secured to the extrusion, if it wobbles like you think it does playing physics simulation in your head, then your v wheels are loose, or the extrusion is.

I can't vouch for the newer models using a extrusion rail though.

>>2581424
>Dude the only thing you hate about linear rails because

>thEy ArE lOuD

>I told you extrusion rails have a twist, even mitsumi admits to this, and can only keep it minimal.
The amounts of twist you'll find in a typical aluminum extrusion is negligible for the use case.

>Stainless steel linear rail will stay straight on extrusion rail, and make the hotend straight. While v wheels going down a twisted extrusion follows the twist and cause hotend to move slightly, which is noticable on the print.
That's bullshit. The rail will conform to extrusion its bolted to. It doesn't matter if the rail is perfectly straight and true, if there's a bow or twist in the extrusion, it will conform to it.

Let's add up the pros and cons here
Linear rails
>able to bear more load
Completely irrelevant for glorified hot glue guns
>less maintenance
As if maintaining v-wheels was a challenge or even something you need to do except in rare circumstances
>more "precise"
Completely irrelevant for glorified hot glue guns

V-wheels
>simpler
>cheaper
>effective
>quieter
>smoother

>>2581465
>That's bullshit. The rail will conform to extrusion its bolted to. It doesn't matter if the rail is perfectly straight and true, if there's a bow or twist in the extrusion, it will conform to it.

Stainless stell is going to bed to aluminum extrusion?

LOL Nevermind, I am arguing with someone that believes this.

>>2581465
Oh, if you believe stainless steel linear rail, is going to bed to aluminum extrusion, you're dumber than I thought, and I see why you think v wheels are superior.

Carry on.

I had my bed off while I was redoing some wiring.
I overtightened what feels like 2 of the v-wheels, it's only been about a week but the bumps are already distinct. I'm assuming I overtightened them.
I have several spare wheels and bearings on hand.
For $50, I could instead switch to the cheapest chinkiest linear rails possible.

Should I pull the trigger?

>>2581397
voxelab printrers are absolute dogshit. the kp3s is a great machine, especially for the price

Why isn't there a tier ranking from S to F for hotends?

>>2581372
>have issues with the bed leveling
Pretty sure it would be best to tie the Z screws together with a belt.

>>2581541
If you get some chinkshit rails, you can upgrade the actual ball bearings to something quality and have a slightly better rail. That's assuming you start out with a rail that is halfway decent. So you might end up with a 3/4 decent rail by the time you are done! The good ball bearings aren't cheap though. You need 66 per cart so figure another $10+ per rail depending on the type and grade of ball bearing.

>>2581551
This. Emptied out the chink rails to clean them, and some of the cheap steel balls weren't even round. Replaced with ceramic balls and its night and day, even with no lube.

>>2581557
>Replaced with ceramic balls and its night and day, even with no lube.

>>2580992
How would I do it with a paper? What's pronterface?
>>2580994
i committed a grave sin and dealt with the Chinese
>>2581024
>Tronxy X5SA heated bed ~40bucks
>PEI magnet sticker ~40bucks
>>2581185
What do you mean by a support?
I don't know why it's sagging in the center

>>2581549
Because they would all be either S or F.

>>2581565
Hehu

>>2581575
>330mm^2 heated bed: $20
>330mm^2 PEI coated spring-steel sheet + magnet: $20
Just saved you $40, but you're still gonna have a bad time.
You need a flat bed, what you have is a thin piece of aluminum on springs that typically heats up to between 120F and 220F, it will NEVER be flat.
You can purchase an 8mm thick aluminum bed made specifically for your printer, it's a common mod, but they tend to be overpriced as fuck.
The cheaper option by far is to head to your local hardware store and have them cut a piece of glass for you.
Expect <$10 for a piece of 1/8"(3mm) thick, but if you have a decent store you might find 3/16" (5mm) or 1/4" (6.5mm), which would be even better.
While you're there, pick up some nylon bushings to replace your bed springs.
Yes, you can still put a PEI coated spring-steel sheet and magnet on the glass bed.

With a rigidly mounted thick flat glass bed and a bed leveling probe, you're on easy street for life.

Found myself a furniture to lock my 3d printer and print ABS at.
I wanna add my webcam and an LED to see how it's going without opening the thing, though. What kind of LED should I pick? I have an SKR mini e3 v3 running klipper (plus fluidd on a rpi zero 2) so I guess something running on 5V/3.3V would be best. I know nothing of LEDs so idk how to pick one.

>>2581613
>What kind of LED should I pick?
One that runs on your printer's voltage. Not the board voltages, you don't want to add extra load to that.
So it will be either 12V or 24V. Try to find something that runs on that. If you can't find any easily then you can use a step up or step down converter to adjust the voltage to the LEDs up or down as needed.

>>2581611
Not him, but can you put the heater for the bed between the spring-steel and the glass?

>>2581294
My old cartesian-style 3D printer gave out on me yesterday, and I was thinking of getting a delta-style one, specifically the FLSUN Super Racer

Any thoughts on this? Is it bad?

>>2581618
No because the heater is uneven so the steel will be uneven. Plus it would make hot spots.

>>2581621
Delta is kino. The flsun gives you more height but height is your largest dimension, just keep in mind part orientation doesn't always allow you to take advantage.

How do you design bed filling boxes that won't warp?

>>2581624
Cheers bro, one question that I almost forgot: on all the "comparison" videos and articles they say that Cartesian printers have more precision but... if I'm trying to do a high precision print on a Delta isn't it just a matter of setting it at a low speed?
Or is a low speed Delta STILL lower precision than a Cartesian?

>>2581627
By nature of how the kinematics are done, it will always be less precise.
By a teeny tiny little margin that means absolutely nothing in the real world of desktop 3D printers.
Think nothing of it.

>>2581629
Dope, thanks anon

>>2581294
I haven’t read the OP in a while, and just noticed it no longer has any Prusa printer recommendations anymore. Is that because the perception is prusa is outdated? Overpriced? Not feature-competitive with other printers? I bought my first 3d printer, (a prusa, which I love), 2 years ago, partially from advice in these 3dp threads so I’m curious what caused the fall from grace.

>>2581631
All of those. Ancient 8-bit board, and way more expensive than a clone like the SV06. In addition, the 3D printed parts are just not that strong (especially if your hot end just dives into the bed FOR SOME REASON) and will weaken over time, and will also soften if you try to run an enclosure for ABS or nylon or whatever.

I've come to the conclusion that if you want a cheap printer that just works, buy something under $400. If you want a good printer, make a ratrig or voron. Prusa are asking premium price for a design that hasn't been updated in a decade.

>>2581647
Nailed it.
It's not that Prusa printers are "bad," they're definitely not, they're just such poor value at this point it's hard to recommend them.
The SV06 is a great example, it's $300 at full price, $240 in the real world, takes less than 15 minutes to assemble if you're comfortable, less than 30 minutes for a complete noob who isn't too scared.
Compare to a MK3S+ at $800 with a 6-8 hour build time (per Prusa), or $1100 assembled.
They trade blows in the quality of some particular components, but the price destroys the comparison.

Unassembled Prusa MK3S+, $800
Sovol SV06 ($240), an Ender 3 S1 ($330), a Malyan M200 ($170), and 1kg of good Polymaker PETG for each ($22x3), $806.
You could assemble/set up all 3 of them and print a half dozen benchy boats in less time than it takes to assemble the Prusa.

They're not bad printers, just a horrific value.

>>2581613
It's a huge pain in the ass to pick the right light because some of them pulse at your camera's frame rate so you end up with bullshit lines across the feed. Some cameras you can adjust the frame rate to get rid of them. I'm not sure which light exactly to pick (I went with incandescent) but I'd imagine if you picked a light meant for streaming video it would probably work best.

hey guys i tried googling this but i am failing
can i use cura to punch holes in models?
i thought you could do it with support blockers but the cutting mesh thing doesn't remove everything inside

>>2581656
Prusa is like the apple of 3d printers

>>2581550
nah there's not any drift, at least while powered on. i can jog all the axes their full extent multiple times, check the left and right side of the bed with the probe, and the values are still within like 0.01mm or whatever.
i legit have no clue what the fuck the problem is. the company just mailed me out new Z motor mounts, and a new bed, fuck knows if that'll do anything.
i think if it's still fucked, i'll see if i can return it and get a different one. maybe it's just a weird lemon.

>>2581577
>How would I do it with a paper?
https://gprivate.com/6462t

What's pronterface?
https://gprivate.com/6462v

>feel like I finally figured out how to print with petg
>final print of item #1, moving to item #2
>completely incapable of sticking, failure for 2 hours straight troubleshooting, destroys my print bed
I hate petg. I hate petg. I hate petg.

>>2581680
why the fuck would you print with that toxic shit anyway

just a reminder that pla fumes are actually toxic too

>>2581682
Source? Not that it sounds too unbelievable, I'm sure 10 years from now people are going to look back on 3d printing inside like smoking.

>>2581683
https://www.design-engineering.com/siri-study-finds-fumes-from-common-3d-printers-are-toxic-1004039344/

https://chemicalinsights.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/Chemical-Insights_3D-Toxicity-Report_final.pdf

basically 3d printers should be in well vented rooms with air cleaners probably, especially at schools

>>2581688
Intriguing, yet highly disturbing. Look like I have an excuse to fast track building an enclosure.

>>2581674
No, Apple products are a better value than Prusa printers.
Workstation, 12-core Xeon W, 192GB RAM, Radeon Pro W6800X, 4TB NVME SSD:
>Apple Mac Pro Tower: $14,000
>Dell, HP, or Titan: $9000 - $10,000.
40%-50% more than competing hardware.

Flagship smartphone
>Apple iPhone 14 Pro Max 512GB: $1,400.
>Samsung S23 Ultra 512GB: $1,380
>Pixel 7 Pro 512GB: $1,100
Competitive pricing.

>Prusa MK3S+: $800 - $1100
>Sovol SV06: $240
>Ender 3 S1: $330
>Anycubic Kobra: $260
240%-460% more than competing hardware.

Apple, a company famous for incredibly overpriced high-end consumer electronics, is more competitive and fair in its pricing than Prusa. Don't ever buy a Prusa.

>PP

>>2581626
Needs rigidity so it doesn't warp/deform/collapse under the stresses caused by cooling.
Printing in an enclosure, even a shitty improvised one, can help.

CFRP tubes are not in my opinion good surfaces for linear bearings to slide on.

>>2581294
Is it possible to make money off of a PLA/ABS 3D printer?

>>2581721
Yes

>>2581724
any tips on uhhh the subject matter
what're the best things to print for cashmoney

>>2581613
a candle

>>2581727
The best-sellers and biggest earners are always garbage.
It's not the big fancy product you put all your effort into, it's going to be the shitty little plastic chachkies you download.

Head over to Etsy to see what people print for dollary-doos.
https://www.etsy.com/search?q=3d+printed&explicit=1&order=highest_reviews
It's eerily similar to scrolling through Thingiverse or Printables sorted by "Popular".

>>2581355
>Don't do that. I suggest a Kingroon KP3S Pro or a Sovol SV06.
This. The KP3S Pro or Pro S1 has a print volume that is almost that of the Ender3 or Sovol SV06.
Right now i would go with the SV06, knowing that you have to fix the bed somewhat, there are tutorials out there and it costs nothing. Also you have to put grease into the bearings, which costs a little if you don't have any grease.

>>2581721
no but it's possible to make money off of 10 of them.

>>2581667
no

>>2581397
The KP3S Pro S1 is 210x210x200, almost Ender3. It also has linear rails on all axis. It really is a great machine. There is nothing wobbly about it. The Prusa Mini is a wobbelfest compared.

>>2581406
Believe it or not, after i got a KP3S Pro S1 i 'll sell my Prusa Mini. It's not a bad machine, but it could have been better mechanically.

>>2581408
Yes, best to not do it in the room you live in.

>>2581465
That is the most stupid thing i read today. But the day is not over, you can still post something more stupid.

>>2581541
I would do it. $50 seems pricey however, unless you mean all axis. Getting good rails is a matter of luck sadly, so better order two or three different sellers from Amazon and keep the best.

fug

>going to buy a sovol 06
>my fetish for deltas makes me want a flsun q5 despite it being inferior for the money

>>2581805
Buy the delta, it's the better of the two because triangles exist.

>>2581689
>>2581688
A 3d printer is basically a plastic candle.

>>2581820

Here we go. First of six.

Locksmith here.
I fucked up pretty fucking bad. Pic related is a T-handle for a very old automobile from 1914... I was trying to make a key for it and well, apparently a hammer was the wrong tool. You can see the damage pictured. I struck the key with a hammer and the plastic of the handle broke. What a stupid fucking design. The reason I used a hammer is because the pins were not moving at all. After soaking them in lube and putting them through my ultrasonic cleaner in a bag, I tried the hammer. The pin chambers and springs were literally packed full of graphite and that's why the key pins wouldn't move.
Does anyone know what type of plastic this might be or how to weld it back together? It's super fucking old so I'm guessing there isn't too many plastics from 1914.
I haven't found the second small piece that's missing yet. I was thinking I could maybe model a replacement part and then resin print it. Use CMYK to match the color. Not sure how well that would work. I might just see if I can find a complete replacement handle but because of it's age, but I'm not very hopeful.
>pic related

>>2581751
>best to not do it in the room you live in
i will have to find some way to filter the air from it then

>>2581918
Probably looking at an acetate resin, but whatever it may be, it's not "repairable" in the sense that you won't be welding it or anything like that. It's likely not even a thermoplastic, won't soften and melt with heat, just degrade, smoke, burn.

What you're looking at if you want to repair it is basically body work, use a small amount of CA or superglue (NOT polyester glue, NOT Gorilla, dollar store superglue) to reattach the chipped piece to the core, add body filler, sand, paint. Don't try to glue to the surrounding material, it's a miracle if the shit isn't already brittle and falling apart, glue between the detached piece and the (hopefully metal) surface beneath it.

If the thing can be disassembled further, yeah you may be able to print a replacement.
You'd be going through a printing service and hopefully matching the color in a durable resin, then thoroughly clear-coating it once you get it because printing resin is very UV sensitive and sunlight can embrittle and discolor it quickly.
Hardest part is designing it to match and ensuring all the other components will fit properly; a one-off print from a service doesn't have to be terribly expensive, but it'll add up fast if you start going through multiple iterations of your design to get things working.

It may be easier to mold and cast it.
If at least one half is good, you've got what you need to make a mold and duplicate this piece in epoxy resin that you can color-match yourself.
It's a straight-forward process, very doable at home, inexpensive once you're up and running so experimenting with colors and adjustments won't break the bank, and quick turn-around so if you fuck something and have to start over you've only lost part of a day, not a week or more of waiting for a piece to arrive from the print farm.

>>2581918
I'd say epoxy and sand. Also it's probably shellac and not plastic.

>>2581918
What's the vehicle, and where's that handle go?
It may be 109 years old, but if somebody gives a shit about it, then it's likely there are plenty of people who give a shit about it.
There are Model T parts that are easier to get your hands on than half the shit from the 1980s, what's popular and/or well-liked is much more important than age when it comes to parts availability for anything over about 20 years old.
Being old as fuck and hard to find parts for is exactly what some companies target for their limited-run high-markup reproduction parts.
Other times, parts get over-made and undersold, end up floating between distributors and parts stores for ages and ages, seemingly always available brand-new all over the place even though nobody's actually made the part in several decades, until one day they sort of dry up, and NOS ones start popping up on eBay occasionally for a considerable markup.

>>2581918
(Just barely) cover the holes, scarify and clean all bonding surfæ, use black epoxy or bondo to fill area, file it smooth to match, use a few coats of sandable primer, paint whole plastic area to match.

>>2581933
As anon said, basic body work on miniature scale

>>2581918
superglue

>>2581676
>at least while powered on
Isn't that the whole problem? That once you turn the printer off the left and right side of the bed aren't necessarily aligned, so it can be at a slant. There's some sort of "auto-levelling" whereby the printer drives both steppers to their extremes until stalled, but that's a shitty solution.
The real ranking is:
independant dual z > belt-driven dual z > single-z > dual-stepper single driver dual z

>>2581977
>independant dual z > belt-driven dual z > single-z > dual-stepper single driver dual z
Facts, pure and true facts that turn to bitter orange wax in my ears.

I didn't even notice I had Arachne perimeter generator enabled in prusaslicer (dunno if it came as default in a new version or I activated and forgot about it)
But I resliced an old file I had on the SD card and you can definitely tell the difference.

>>2581751
What's the footprint of the kp3s pro s1? I got the clone mini because I needed something small but capable that I can throw in my office closet to run small parts off of while my mk3s+ is in the garage working on bigger parts.

>>2581764
>not pirating shit
Idiots do this

>>2582003
320x325x360mm according to Kingroon's website, on the product page.
(12.6" x 12.8" x 14.175" inches)

>>2582017
Almost a suitable candidate but then I looked at some reviews and the kingroon is a king troon, manual bed leveling and a badly designed hotend are gonna be a no from me bro.

>>2581621
I recently got an SR and I'm going to put Klipper on it soon. I'll probably post results in one of the next generals.
>>2582034
>manual bed leveling
dude, it's such a tiny bed that it doesn't matter. I've leveled it once since I had it and had no issues. The hot end is apparently not that great but you can buy a v6 clone for like $20 off aliexpress or spend $10 more and get it quickly off amazon and just drop it in. you can also print a spool holder that is mounted on the z-axis to give it a better angle into the extruder which decreases its footprint. I printed something similar on my prusa mini because neither printer was really "compact" because of the spool holder being on the side next to them.

>>2582060
>Klipper
I looked this up and apparently it's firmware. Why would I want this in my printer? What's wrong with the firmware it comes with?

How do you find actual information about a certain filament? I'm looking at stuff from a company named Prima and they've got 3 different product line names for PLA but no information on what makes it different. The only thing I've got to go off of is that they're at different price points but that doesn't tell me much.

>>2582069
PrimaValue, EasyPrint, PrimaSelect, PrimaSelect Pro.
PrimaValue has the lowest density and tensile strength, it's the cheap option and nothing more.
EasyPrint is comparable to other "PLA+" type filaments that claim to offer both increased impact resistance and better print quality, it is indeed very forgiving to print, and has a claimed impact strength of 36kJ/m2 compared to the 3.5-7.5kJ/m2 of the others.
PrimaSelect is another example of an "improved" PLA, in this case they claim it's less odorous than other PLA and "because of its thermal characteristics it’s easy to get great prints." It has notably greater tensile strength than PrimaValue or EasyPrint, but it's hard to compare the numbers directly because different testing methods were used.
PrimaSelect Pro is just more PrimaSelect with the added fact that it's advertised as being annealable for great strength and heat resistance.

PrimaCreator, the company behind Prima's line of filaments, very likely is regurgitating numbers from the datasheets of the various PLA materials they start with.
They also might just be sticking their labels on various Chinese filaments, who's to say.
Based on the info they share, the PrimaValue looks like some common (Chink) PLA, EasyPrint looks like 4043D, Select looks like 3D850, and Select Pro looks like 3D870. I could be wrong about all of those, because it's just a guess, but that's definitely what it looks like.

I like 4043D for printing, I like it a whole hell of a lot, in my experience it really is the easiest, and makes for great retractions and seams without stringing.
3D850 and 3D870 have higher tensile strength, and they flow more easily, they can be printed more rapidly than most other PLA if flowrate is your bottleneck.

Based on their websites and what they make available, I would never touch this company, they're unprofessional as fuck.
I fully expect they sell customer data and credit card numbers to Armenians, scrawled on stained napkins in pencil.

>>2581674
not a good comparison because prusa is at least still open source

>>2582091
nah i think it's a good comparison. even if apple was open source that doesn't affect the majority of people who buy apple products. it's spending a premium to get a thing that works how you expect it to work.

>>2582091
The entirely opensource WebKit, which has since also been forked by Google as the Blink engine, is the single most widely used thing to ever come from Apple. You'll struggle to find anything made in the last 15 years with a web browser that doesn't have a trace of Apple inside.
Apples contributions to opensource exponentially outweigh that of Prusa.

Don't think for one second that the opensource Prusa family has in any way contributed to the advancement of consumer 3D printers, there's been nothing new there for a decade, they never had anything special going for them over the other RepRap and RepRap derived printers, even at the time when they were competitive in price and quality. Since then, they've not upgraded or improved their printers with features that have become standard on the vast majority of printers priced at or below their level.
Prusa is a stagnant company that tries to look busy and bleeds cash getting very little done.
The misleadingly named Prusa XL, which is in fact very small and overpriced, is a great example of them doing absolutely nothing for a very long time and somehow turning that into several years worth of headlines.
>It's still not here, it's still not done, we haven't actually been working on it, also we know that printers that are larger and more capable are already available for a fraction of the price. In 2 weeks, we'll be announcing a 2 week delay, after which there will be an announcement of another 2 week delay to begin another 2 weeks after that. Send beard oil for the creator, you all aren't buying enough Haribos and the beard is getting frightfully dry.

PrusaSlicer is a fork of an existing opensource slicer, Alessandro Ranellucci's slic3r, wherein they implement features taken from Ultimaker's opensource Cura engine where the real slicer development happens. Prusa meanwhile contributes heavily to the shortage of jojoba and eucalyptus that's disrupting the global economy and imploding American banks as we speak.

>>2582034
It's your choice, but i'll replace my Prusa mini with it, that should tell you something.
It is the printer with the highest precision i ever had so far. I always had some kind of Z irregularities, they are gone. Also, this is my first direct drive, that could be another reason.

The hotend is a V6 clone with a V5 heating block, it's fine. If you want a V6 heating block, i ordered one on Amazon together with coldend, cartridges and all that for 10€.

Bed leveling is fine if you regularly change build plates. I don't, i have the glass and didn't change it after the first calibration. I have a PEI sheet too, so then i ordered a BL-Touch to add it later.

The extruder is a Titan clone, absolute fine, replacements cost 7€ at Ali.

Now the cons:
* the fans are loud, the machine itself is silent in operation
* once you use your own Marlin or Klipper firmware, the display is in the wrong orientation, depending on how you look at it. Basically you would have to turn the machine so that the logo points to the right
* it's chink shit, there is no support, there is no help, you are on your own

I stick to it, the KP3S Pro S1 and the Sovol SV06 are the best printers in the last 3 years or so.

>>2581930
Well, you have a 3d printer to make something up.
I see a computer fan, a 12v power supply, a HEPA and charcoal filter and a 3d printed case for all of it. This put in a closed print chamber and you are golden.

>>2582000
looks like it needs a bit more heat too, +10C made more solid first layers for me

Which of these approaches would yield higher rigidity, Z-Axis standing on Y-axis or next it? Initially i would have said the right approach with Z next to Y, due to the higher cross intersection. However the more i think about it, it seems to be duped by just putting a larger L-joining plate on the Z on Y variant.

>>2582145
I would say they are the same. However ...

>>2582145
Probably the Z standing on the XY, since the bottom bolt tension will be holding a flat plate against a flat plane, resisting X and Y wobbles.
The one on the right will still probably be stiff enough in X (where it matters), but you might still develop some errand resonances in the Y direction.
Just my thoughts, and you should design a CoreXY anyways...

>>2582114
>the display is in the wrong orientation, depending on how you look at it. Basically you would have to turn the machine so that the logo points to the right

not the anon you're talking to, when I installed klipper on my kp3s 3.0 (not pro) I was under the impression I couldn't use the screen anymore, kind of a bummer was hoping to try klipperscreen, even though its probably too small.

>>2582152
>CoreXY
>not crossed gantry
ngmi

>turns linear rod into ballscrew
would this even be repeatable?

>>2582238
You forgot to include the fact that I still need to feel elitist when I get around to building a K3 into your calculations.

>>2582239
There's the rolling screw extruder which is downright hypnotic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCINI5pHP4Y
There's also an industrial model by Zero-Max inc. called the Roh'lix so I'd assume there's actual use cases for the rolling bearing screw.
Also I remember some threads from the RepRap forum dated way abck to like 2014 or something with pics of said motion device on the z axis. Can't find those I'm afraid.

>>2582151
Compelling argument.

>>2582152
>since the bottom bolt tension will be holding a flat plate against a flat plane
I'm not completely certain about this, as any irregularity from the cut will be pressed into Y as well.
>design a corexy
Too expensive to justify right now. Current one may be seen as overkill as well, but I rather carry over some proper extrusions and steppers than dealing with creality scraps one day.

>>2582246
Maintenance hell.

Has there been any development to bring something like the Bambu Lidar to other printers? Seems like it could be very useful.

Update on the Ultimaker overhaul.
Added a probe camera and some more LEDs. Unfortunately the module was not manual focus like advertised so the image gets worse with movement (focus mechanism is delicate for these small sensors).
ASA wasn’t good enough for the probe mount, decided to go back to the old duct and just tap some holes. Much better.
Im also considering switching to the BTT Octopus Pro board. The DSI interface on the manta board doesn’t work without a CM4 (CB1 substitute board has a couple issues/limitations) which is going for $160 so I’m running another Pi for KlipperScreen. It also doesn’t always boot when powered on, incredibly frustrating.
Having used Klipper for a little bit now I’d prefer to keep the Pi always on and power cycle the rest of the print which will be easier to accomplish with the Octopus board.
I also ordered a V6 clone and CHC heater from triangle labs (I’m still on 2.85).
Even with my current CHT nozzle and bondtech ddg extruded infill begins under-extruding at ~70mm/s and any faster I’m grinding filament.
Curious if boron nitride paste would help as I wasn’t too impressed with the heater cartridge/block tolerances.

I'll buy this strange fucker as soon as LDO comes up with a full kit

>>2582254
>Maintenance hell.
Care to elaborate?

>>2582286
What's there to elaborate? Something breaks, needs to be cleaned, unstuck, etc. and you're down to disassembling the whole thing because there's no easy access.

>>2582291
>>2582291
>Something breaks, needs to be cleaned, unstuck, etc. and you're down to disassembling the whole thing
What are you making a comparison to?
>there's no easy access.
On the contrary, the rolling bearing linear actuator is very easy to split radially without negatively affecting the performance.

>>2582298
>On the contrary, the rolling bearing linear actuator is very easy to split radially without negatively affecting the performance.
Then why don't we see it used anywhere?

>>2582300
>Then why don't we see it used anywhere?
Do you often hang out in proximity and inspecting the inner workings of following industrial operations and/-or equipment?
>Packaging
>Printing
>Converting
>Materials Handling
>Semiconductor Manufacturing
>Test Equipment
>Inspection Equipment
>Core Cutting Equipment
>Door Openers and Actuators
>Video Imaging Devices
>Adjustable Web Guides
>Optical Comparators
>Parts Feeders
>Gantry Robots
>Medical Equipment
>Transfer Cables
>Back Gauges
>X-Y Tables
It's hard to see shit when you're not exposed to it. Just like any other power transfer and actuation mechanism, they have their unique advantages and disadvantages. They might pop up in 3d-printing but might not.

>>2582320
I don't have to lick poop to know it's not going to taste good.

>>2582325
>It's poop because... it just is okay??
Do you feel threatened by three ball bearings resting askew on a shaft or what's making you so angry?

>>2582320
Do you think you're making a point? Give some proper examples or fuck off. No, an open linear actuator is not a good comparison to a rotary extruder.

>>2582329
You like shafts, don't you?
Say why your solution should be considered or shut it.

>>2582284
>no supports
>angled pullies
>heat dissipates into open air
>meme belts
>meme tax
I do see the appeal of cool cause different, but frankly it raises so many red flags. I don't get any serious consideration around it.

>>2582277
Just wanna say, i love these. Please do keep em coming.

>>2582151
This and a proper 123 block.

>>2581406
Does it come with those printed components, or did you print what we see in blue and/or orange here?

>>2582116
thanks for the keywords. my brain is not so huge but i think i can put something together.

you know printing spool dregs kinda sucks ass

>>2582522
You could try your hand a filament welding, and make a multicultural spool to print various shit colored trinkets (if the welds don't snap in your extruder).

>>2581294
>3d printing thread
>Faggots only talk about the 3d printer itself
>No one actually does interesting projects with it but highly tune, and put thousands of dollars into modifications and exotic filaments to print benchies and test cubes.

>>2582531
some of us may be under NDA otherwise I'd show you some cool shit

>>2582531
mkay

>>2582531
wheres your interesting projects

Fully serviceable 18650 battery pack made after watching 2hrs of youtube freecad tutorials. Will PLA yield and cause my threaded screws to loosen?

>>2582596
If they're machine screws, they can't hold much torque, but they won't give up on their own so long as you stay in the safe range. It's pretty easy to over-torque a little M3 screw in a printed part.

The best fastener for plastic is screws made for plastic.
Keep some on hand, assortments are cheap on eBay/Amazon/Aliexpress.
An M2 plastic self-tapper will hold more torque than an M4 machine screw in plastic.

>>2582619
Good to know thanks. Yeah theyre m3 machine screws

>>2582631
Just melt an M3 threaded insert into the hole you are threading into now and trim the excess. Problem solved!

>>2581611
Find me a 330mm^2 PEI coated spring-steel sheet + magnet for $20 in the USA

>>2581835
Oh boy, Untitled_plate_1 through Untitled_plate 6!

What's the general userbase like in this general, is it mostly hobbyists or are you guys real adults with phds in engineering and stuff?

>>2582794
a bit of both

>>2582531
my most advanced 3d project was criticized to the ground on another imageboard so I prefer to shitpost now

I'm thinking of building an enclosure in preparation for the summer heat, but I'm unsure of how to cool it without the fan impacting the prints, any ideas?

Beginner here, I want to print props for anime figures. Since unpainted figures are gray, should I buy some gray filament or is white fine? I don't know how the color affects the paint.

I want to 3d print cover for doors and windows that glow in the dark, outside cianigger jokes, is there any filament that I can trust that it won't be shit for this task?

>>2581688
>got an FDM printer years ago because "it's not toxic"
Fuck
How ghetto can I go with the ventilation on an FDM printer? A box fan in an open window next to the printer? Would this work for an SLA printer too?

>>2582794
some people never inzvented anything, all they printed were downloaded from printables or any other site

Why is CAD along with FEA so comfy bros?

Also, give me some design ideas to improve my CAD skills. I'm relatively new to designing and am using CATIA (for professional reasons mostly).

>>2582794
I stick to 3d printing with blender and yeggi with my trusty old ender 3 for both hobbyism and labware... so a bit of both.

is it possible to 3d print a lense with fdm printer? even if I set 100% infill there will be some gaps between layers so the result wont be glass clear. it is more reasonable to print a lens, polish it extensively and make a silicon mold for epoxy, but that approach requires two more steps and working with epoxy sucks. what did I miss?

>>2582834
If you're printing figurines you should be using a resin printer.

>>2582851
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qb25Gi4Jv0

So if I'm reading the details about this right, this is a slightly hacky way to integrate multi-material printing onto most printers
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooplCiS7mqU
I don't think it would work great with direct extrusion, but I think I may have to pick one up and try it on a bowden.

>>2582886
Interesting, an update a couple months ago solved that problem
>Y-adapter can now be moved an arbitrary distance back from direct extruders

>>2582834
The gold standard technology for mini printing are resin printers

>>2582794
Engineer here, you can learn 90% of what I know by just getting comfortable with Solidworks, or F*sion360 if you are poor.

>>2582848
what lab shit are you printing? i needed some weird sized keck clips and printed those literally one time, and that's all.

I'm trying to teach myself CAD and so far I'm having a decent time with sketchup, but I'm already seeing some big limitations with the free version. Would it be worthwhile to buy a subscription to the premium version, or would I be better off just torrenting some other shit all together?

>>2582531
im too lazy to learn anything and tinkercad is comfy.
anyway here are some car plugs for the small pockets in the doors.

>>2583008
>CAD
If you want technical stuff use openSCAD if you want more artsy stuff use Blender, it was true then and it still holds true now, there is no need to pay for anything when designing things to 3d print.

>>2583008
Sketchup doesn't get better. For serious stuff move up to FreeCAD, Fusion 360, or Solidworks. Blender is also usable.

new project: recreate the "FrEe EnErGy" coil thing from YouTube as a gag, the plywood in the original has a battery hiden inside, so il be using wood pla, just gota do the bottom lid and the rest of the motor mount

Another Ultimaker update
Octopus Pro board is installed and most of the wiring is done. The Pi will be mounted on the front with a touch LCD which is next.
Considering rewiring the printer for AC input since there’s enough room for a 24V and maybe a 48V but I’m getting carried away. Speed is cool but I’m more interested in high temp.
BTT make a MAX31865 module that goes into a stepper slot, that combined with the onboard chip will let me use both PT100s in the bed and hotend which is fresh.
I already own a full enclosure but I’ll be adding something extra for better chamber temps, no spoilers.

Freecad really has a learning curve. And the fucking topological naming problem is still there.

>>2583193
Oh that's nice.

>>2583216
>>2583216
It's better than the original vapor chamber cooling but still hits high numbers on high load sadly.

Any tips on making better eyes on bjd dolls?

>>2583257
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0_0nyHRLL4

>>2583257
Honestly I prefer wacky eyes like you'd see in a nihei manga

>>2583111
duno if this shits just REALLY wet or wood fill PLA is just naturally stringy like this

>>2583292
forgot pic like a retard

>>2583293
aaaand the iPhone battery doesn't fit... back to openSCAD...

>>2583292
Wood PLA is not typically stringy, really no more so than any other PLA.
The wood does make it much more hygroscopic than regular PLA though, that really may just be wet filament.
Of course, that assumes you've tuned for this woodfill already. In my experience I have to fuck with retraction settings with wood/bambu/hemp filament.

Rate my setup, I'm healthmaxing. Activated charcoal on the walls and in the filters. No matter what you give it though it's 0 because the room still reeks of plastic. By the way the stacked filters are to raise the upper one closer to the bed, the bottom is turned off. I'm not retarded.

>>2583329
without forcing air through those bags of carbon they're having virtually zero effect on removing harmful particulates. Your typical single stage comsumer HEPA filter isn't good enough for capturing the entire range, honestly you're much better off just exhausting/ventilating.

lol jesus christ get a spiderplant and opena winder its spring you still weariing your mask right? chud

>>2583333
So it doesn't draw it in from its surroundings or anything? I read that it's good in rooms to remove cigarette odors, something has to be happening then.
>>2583338
My ironclad instincts tell me to ignore virus, pay attention to the stench of melting plastics. Just don't like it. But I'm well aware it looks silly. You may laugh.

>>2583329
I'm not really fond of those fan-based air filters, the airflow feels a little forced.

>>2583353
What do you mean?

I have solved basically all issues with my prints, but there's one thing I just can't fucking get rid of: elephant's foot / corner curling

>elephant's foot means first few layers are squished
ok, I installed a probe, I'm using mesh bed leveling 10x10, literally went and manually perfected the z-offset for each point in the mesh using the paper method

>unless the first layer is squished a bit into the bed it doesn't adhere as well and curls up
ok, I installed a PEX WhamBam printing bed, the PLA sticks wonderfully to it but without some squish there is still corner curling due to the contraction of the material once the cooling fan comes online at layer 4

>less cooling
my fan has to go up to at least 70% RPM at first, otherwise it won't start spinning, slicers don't have settings that allow for more than one fan speed change
I tried printing at 70% all the way, still curling
tried printing with no cooling fan, printing accuracy went way down

>try lowering z-offset to force some amount of squish, just chamfer the part's edge that will be on the bed, or use a setting like "initial layer horizontal expansion" to make that layer a bit narrower to compensate for the squish and avoid elephant's foot
that causes my print to work kinda like an elephant in stilettos, the first layer is narrower and heavily squished, but the second layer bulges out and there's still curling (I think the wider 2nd and above layers almost cause a sort of leverage effect on the edges of the first layer when cooling kicks in


what the fuck guys I'm stuck in a loop, I can't escape the fucking elephant's foot / corner curling deathspiral

the ONLY thing that helps now and then is using rafts, but that comes with its own set of issues

>>2583357
it was a joke
as "feels a little forced" and "forced airflow"
sorry

Bros I have a problem.
I am a newfag in 3d printing. I have an stock ender 3 and I'm trying to print this part but it cuts or don't round it the edges. Part is like 218mm and workspace is 220mm so everything should be printing. no brim or skirt. Same thing is happening when I turn around this part to horizontal position.
Any clue what is wrong?

>>2582840
So... no one?

>>2583193
How's that Vega holding up anon? Cool to still see them in the wild, kinda regret not getting one back in the day

>>2583370
i'm guessing it's because of the wipe line, try rotating 90

Looking for filament to make an onahole/dildo... for a friend.

What is the right material?

>>2583452
you don't make onahole/dildos with printers, you make moulds that you can cast with silicone

>>2582102
> Prusa meanwhile contributes heavily to the shortage of jojoba and eucalyptus that's disrupting the global economy and imploding American banks as we speak.

Kek, almost spit my tea out.

>>2583451
I've tried this and no luck. I have a feeling that this limit is hardcoded to the creality fw.

can I run my printer in a garage? looking at getting an x1 carbon, and planning on where I can put it. other option is a laundry room with a vent.

>>2583487
How cold does your garage get? What's the humidity?

>>2583489
i'm in texas, so anywhere from 40-90F and it can get humid in the summer.

>>2583490
You'll want a dehumidifier and depending on what filaments you use probably one of those fancy dry boxes that feed directly into your printer.

>>2582840
So, umm... does anybody know about any green glow filament that is too in base green instead of white?

>>2583592
This stuff is actually pretty green: https://ultimate3dprintingstore.com/collections/kvp-filament/products/kvp-abs-glow-in-the-dark-green?variant=39643073478759

I have a feeling my resin print will fail out

>>2583349
>So it doesn't draw it in from its surroundings or anything? I read that it's good in rooms to remove cigarette odors, something has to be happening then.
yeah, like how the air filter in your house is actually sitting in front of the air intake instead of just nailed to the wall somewhere?
or how in a fish tank, you don't just dump carbon pellets into the water, but put them in-line with the pump?
or how with a respirator mask, you attach filters to it directly, instead of just hanging just hanging filters off your neck, or putting them in your pockets.
no anon, they're not toxin vacuum cleaners. the air has to flow through them.

>>2581294
>bowline appearing out of nowhere.
>haven't changed slicers, filament, printer, printer enclosure, weather, etc.
Is it the phase of the moon?

>>2583193
Freecad is driving me nuts. I'm spending my life searching for the correct icon to click... which is in another workbench, reachable through a different tab. Always.
My son is using Onshape in school, and it's free for open-source shit (like anyone would want my crap models.) This means I can ask him questions.
Any reason to avoid onshape?

>>2583773
just use f360. they've got a "free" version.

>>2583776
Thanks, but not my question. Is there any reason to *avoid* onshape? Like is it internally building all geometry out of hairballs or something? Exports ingrown surface normals?

>>2583329
Why not putting the printer in a ventilated box with a charcoal filter in the input and output air channel? The airflow in the box doesn't have to be massive, just so that the polluted air can exit only trough the filter.

>>2583787
It's entirely cloud based, 100%.
What you work on is on their servers, not on your computer.
You have ZERO access to the service without internet, and ZERO access to your own work.
Everything you make is already in the hands of a company you have to trust with 100% of what you design, as you're designing it.

Fusion360 still works when your internet is down, you get a little popup, tells you you're working offline and shit won't be backed up to the cloud like normal.
F360 has cloud "integration," it is not cloud-based, and runs on your own computer. Only some specific functionality in F360 is limited to online/cloud usage, like certain simulation tasks for example.

i hate cloudshit so fucking much

>>2583793
>i hate cloudshit so fucking much
I hate unnecessary cloud shit.
Give me the option for automatic cloud based backups of shit I'm working on? Yes, please, that's a nice feature, might want to use it.

Cloud-integrated fruit juicer that tracks your juicing and is literally unusable without an active internet connection and a Juice-Hero+ account.
>Become a Juice-Hero+ Platinum member for only $7.49/mo when you purchase the $89.99 1yr Family Pack that includes 2 new select 'Tunez2JuiceBy' from your favorite hit artists, an additional 12oz of JuiceSilver every month, and 4oz of JuiceGold!
>Juice-Hero+ Action Alert: the price of juicing citrus fruits has been increased from 3oz JuiceSilver per fluid ounce juiced to 2oz JuiceGold per fluid ounce juiced.

There was a bjd doll Polaris on thingiverse but the owner pulled it down because of a spit with some broad. Anyone has a copy I can get?

Are self tapping screws also removable? Or will they fuck up the plastic as i put them in and remove them several times?

>>2583816
Yes, they will fuck it up.
If disassembling is a concern, embed nuts into the print.

>>2583329
Thanks, this is going in my cringe compilation.

>>2583764
Is your cooling setting higher/different? How about the ambient temp in your house? Is there a window open somewhere?

>>2583329
Just put your printer in kids' room

>>2583826
Nope. Everything exactly the same. i ran most of the spool without a single issue, realized I only had like 4-6 meters left on the spool, so decided to run a boat. Yes, it is ABS, it just hasn't been this pronounced.
Exactly why I'm genuinely perplexed.
Only considerable difference might be layer height, 0.3mm vs. my usual 0.2mm. But I've printed 0.3mm fagboats before without an issue, and most of the parts were 0.3mm layer height with a 0.6mm nozzle.

i'm using a resin printer. is it a bad idea to use fine-grade steel wool to gently clean small amounts of hardened resin from the printing plate?

>>2583837
Depends on the build plate.
Many are coated or painted, steel wool may fuck with that. If there's an oxide coating, the steel wool will both scratch it off and contaminate the surface, leading to rust.

Many are bare steel and can be polished if needed, no worries using steel wool on those, same goes for most of the magnetic ones.
It's not uncommon to use steel wool, fine grit sandpaper, or scotch-brite pads to scuff the surface of a steel or aluminum bed for better adhesion.
If it's painted or coated in something, I'd be careful and probably avoid anything abrasive.
Highly recommend the magnetic steel sheets, they're super easy to work with, inexpensive, and you can clean 'em aggressively if you have to.

>>2583792
>ZERO access to your own work.
I can export to some big list of formats, I just have to think to do that.
As for the net-required, that's fine. It's reliable enough where I am. And it will work on my chromebook, which f360 will not? Blah.

OK, so for f360, ami I getting the limited free maker version or am I leveraging my kids student status for the student edition? Or am I torrent? kthx.

>>2583847
The "Limited Free Maker Version".
You miss out on some esoteric filetypes, certain 2D documentation features, collaboration features meant for professional environments, some of the electronics related design tools, simulation, generative design tools, and EAGLE Premium.
Fusion360 isn't "just CAD," 2D and 3D design and modeling, both parametric and mesh modeling, rendering, sheet metal design, CAM for everything from basic 2D machines up to multi-axis simultaneous milling, electronics schematics, PCB layout, and PCB routing and related PCB CAM functionality, SPICE simulation, electronics thermal simulation, it's got a slicer for FDM 3D printers as well as powder bed laser sintering metal printers, generative design tools, it is a big piece of kit with a lot of shit going on.
The free version is still a huge feature-rich software suite that does a whole hell of a lot, I'd take the free version of F360 over OnShape any day.
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal/compare

You may still be able to get the "full" version for free as a student, I don't remember.

>>2583842
I'm using the default Mono 4k printing plate. Trying to find more information on it but it's not magnetic and I think it's just steel?

>>2583847
Internet goes down while you're working, you've lost your progress on the thing you were working on, and cannot continue to work until you have internet again.
If the internet goes down while I'm working in Fusion, I get a pop-up notifying me that I'm offline, which I ignore.

Also, you can use it on a Chromebook. There's a special cloud-only version made specifically for Chromebooks or from any real web browser: https://fusion.online.autodesk.com/
It's only accessible if you have a Student account with Autodesk, it can't be used from the normal "Free" or even the "Pro" version, only students.

pirate solidworks

>>2583787
>Is there any reason to *avoid* onshape?
it's not built by one of the big boys. the two big ones being f360 and solidworks. like, you can do a ton of photo editing in paint.net, and it saves out in jpegs and pngs just like photoshop, but, you might want to just learn on photoshop because of the inertia.

>>2583866
It's aluminum, you're totally safe to use steel wool if you need to.
You will easily and readily scuff the plate, don't be surprised when you put big swirl marks on it.

Seriously though: https://www.amazon.com/Sovol-3D-Upgraded-Platform-Magnetic/dp/B08LYP2VTT/
It's a massive upgrade for a small price.

>>2583866
does the resin material not dissolve in some sort of solvent? acetone, isopropyl alcohol, MEK, toluene, gasoline?

>>2583877
Degrade/weaken/generally fuck off, yes, but dissolve, no.
Hexane weakens and degrades most cured UV resins, but won't dissolve them. Dichloromethane, same deal.
If you actually want to dissolve a resin print, you want nitric acid.
Not a friendly cleaning product.

>>2583877
i've only tried IPA. I have let it soak before and it does make it easier to remove but some was still caked around the edges
>>2583875
I will check this out, thanks!

>>2583887
When you finish a print, and everything just falls off the plate as you peel it off, you slap it back on and immediately hit Print again, that is a good feeling.

>>2583886
yeah but that's fine. you just need to swell the material to reduce the adhesion to the surface. toss the plate in a ziplock with some sort of solvent, let it sit for a couple days, and you could probably knock all the resin off with a brush.
additionally, the UV resins degrade at higher heats. potentially you could toss the plate in a toaster oven, or something, and burn the shit off.
or, just use a wire brush or something that is less hard than the alloy. like a copper scrubbing pad or something.

>>2583890
Just sticking the plate in a freezer for an hour or hitting it with some liquid CO2 or R-134 from a can of air-duster would likely do the job, let everything pop off with ease with just the usual scraper/putty knife.
That said, razor-thin small bits can be some of the most obnoxious to remove.

Do they still make R-134 air-duster or is it all CO2 now? I haven't thought about it in awhile.

>fusion 360
>duplicate piece
>plane slice the copy
>try to delete the bottom half
>THIS IS NECESSARY IN THE TIMELINE
>wft, whatever
>be later
>accidentally merge the cut off piece instead of the full piece that was copied
>print
>don't realize until it's finished that it's missing the top
>don't have enough PLA to finish now
GODFUCKINGDAMMIT

>>2583894
remove stuff instead of deleting. delete like, removes all references to the thing you're deleting. so if you make a part, then draw a sketch on it, then use that sketch for some other part, and DELETE the first part, it'll fuck up that sketch.
but if you remove it, it keeps it in the timeline and doesn't fuck it up.
also, copying parts doesn't separate them from each other. it stays a copy. so you copy part A and paste it as "part B". now if you extrude into part A, it also extrudes part B. they're linked.

>>2583861
>>2583871
Thanks guys
>>2583869
Multi-homed fibre here, if there's an outage I created it.
>>2583894
I'm so looking forward to f360 now

Why does petg have so many stripping issues? It seems relatively intermittent, should I lower or increase retraction, maybe?

>>2583894
Extrude cuts instead of deleting, and switch to ABS so you get more cubic centimeters per kilogram for the same price.

>>2583962
PETG is the r*ddit filament.

>>2583964
>switch to ABS so you get more cubic centimeters per kilogram for the same price.
Some people downplay this, but it's surprisingly significant. You're looking at 7% - 20% more material with ABS or ASA versus PLA or PETG depending on the brand/variety.

You can get ~90 Benchy boats out of a roll of PLA or PETG at a reasonable 2 walls 20% infill.
You get ~115 out of a roll of ABS.

Shame it sucks dick to print with. At least use ASA if you're gonna go this route.

>>2583970
My enclosure stays at 40C even with the exhaust filter going, ABS is easy for me!

>>2582066
newfag here, please spoonfeed

Didn't Onshape used to have a lot more features available for free and they gradually began pulling the rug under people to monetize their dependence on their software?
With Autodesk's track record, what makes anyone think they didn't adopt the same business model?
If they made a version of Fusion that ran completely offline and that people could just purchase once at a reasonable price and be done with it, I would probably switch because of their CAM integration.

>>2583764
benchies are for normies
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2067507

>>2583694
>12 hours ago
...well anon how'd it go

>>2583970
How serious are the ABS vapors? Say I'm in a 5x5x5 meter room where I sit most of the day at my PC with my printer running next to me, is ABS an instant no-no in this scenario?

>>2584000
You pay for software?

bump
>>>/g/92206481

>>2583894
It's a history based program, like all pro/e-clones out there. Use history-forward commands like remove and suppress if you intend to use the data you've created.

>>2584018
Total revolutions are a major wear factor, if that 5 year old motor was run for a lot more often than the 20 year old motor that could well explain the discrepancy. Powering an unbalanced load could also vibrate the comm-bar connections to brittle failure, dust ingress could wear away the brushes quickly, shitty bearings could die, etc. The top motor looks like a typical chinese motor so I wouldn't be surprised if it was made with a shitty build quality.

Was using clear resin and soaked my vat in some IPA before washing it off in the sink. Didn’t scrape all the resin away enough as when i washed off the vat i could see some left over and the smell is lingering
Anything i should do to make sure it doesn’t gunk up the sink or perpetually smell like chemical resin or am i fucked? Poured a bit more IPA and let it sit for a bit and tried to rinse thoroughly

>>2584017
Key words being "fair price".

>>2584031
IPA rinse and then plenty of hot water, you're fine.
Don't stick a UV light down your drain any time soon.
When cleaning my vat, and prints, I use a dollar-store paintbrush to agitate things. Highly recommended.

>>2584012
ABS fumes definitely need to be vented outside

>>2584132
Hardly. It does however leave an oily residue on the interior surfaces of enclosures.

>>2584012
ABS fumes leave Prussian Blue residue on your walls.

>>2584010
It didn't fail, came out well. Resin printing is a lot more forgiving than FDM though. I printed an entire bed of minis. The "pre supported" file I have when sliced through Lychee makes a shit ton of errors. Single pixel towers through all layers, gray half-exposure shit coming off the supports, IDK why it's doing this.

I did break one of the pieces during post-processing though.

>>2583370
bumping for help on this issue
>inb4 buy a larger printer

>>2583370
Don't do a wipe line and bring in the skirt.

>>2584193
Ok, is there and option in Prusa slicer or should I just remove the gcode?

>>2584195
look in print options my dude.

>>2584196
ok my dude. Gonna tell you the result in about 24h since I'm at work currently

>>2583370
Your workspace is 220mm starting from the left, just count the squares. Each should be 10mm

>>2584217
I understand but why then Slicer doesn't tell me that this shit is not good and just cuts the corners?

>>2584219
Because you have to tell the slicer the bed dimensions and the right offsets.
Some gcode processors may not care about the size of your model and just print until they hit a software or hardware limit depending on their settings

>>2584229
Slicer is configured for Ender 3 and It knows its 220x220 workspace. Dunno about the offsets tho...
When I Auto Home, it goes slightly in front of the bed, not in the corner of work space. I'm thinking its the creality fw thing. If your tips wont work I will compile and install marlin myself. And maybe change the board because god its loud. Due to acoustics of my flat, it has very unpleasant sound when I'm in other room than when I'm right beside it.

What are my odds of getting cancer next time I cook with this thing? Drying nylon.

>>2584239
Fuck Windows.

>>2584239
Fuck dude, maybe I have it already. Every program I open this is has it upright.

>>2584242
4chan deletes exif data from photos (including orientation data)
This is to prevent people from doxxing themselves with GPS tagged cock pic selfies

>>2584248
newfag alert

>>2584242
Here you go anon.

My prints go fine until it retracts and THEN extrudes again. It's like it hits something hard every time it pushes forward a lot at once. This occasionally causes stripping. How do I prevent this? Am I printing too hot, retracting too much, too little, what?

>>2583370
What do you have in this screen?
You might also want to examine your x and y offsets on your printer itself, see that when the machine is sent to 0,0 it actually goes to the corner of the bed rather than some point further in.

>>2584248
I'm not convinced, gotta be careful on the interbutts.

>>2584276
Yes friend, I fucked with it on the second try expanding the bed to 235x235 and it did nothing.
>You might also want to examine your x and y offsets on your printer itself, see that when the machine is sent to 0,0 it actually goes to the corner of the bed rather than some point further in.
yes, gonna try this tomorrow.
Like I said. At this point, I'm pretty sure its the creality fw

>>>/tg/88124482
Crossposting offer

>Nobody took me up on the offer last time but this thing's still lying around unused

>Company fucked me on a replacement part and sent me a Mars 3 Pro plate that I cannot use, so if anybody here needs/wants a replacement plate for their mars 3 pro and you live in the US I'll send it 100% free of charge since nobody's been interested in buying it locally either.

>You can contact me at this discord: robowoof#1613 to discuss things like mailing addresses

>First come first served and only one in stock, ideally I'd like it to go to somebody who actively needs a replacement but if you just want a backup I won't say no

>If I get a taker I'll post a followup reply to say it's off the table

>>2584271
How stiff is your bed?
When you change acceleration, the bed will tilt in the opposite direction, especially if you're doing a hard 180 degree change.
Otherwise, check your retraction settings. Any filament stuck in the hot end will start oozing down and can snag (especially if you have a floppy bed).
What slicer are you using?

>>2584282
Cheers. hope someone needs it. have a bump.

>>2584271
Sounds like you're retracting too much, or your extruder acceleration is too high, or you've tuned linear advance wrong, or you're deretracting too quickly, or several other possibilities.
>Printer make & model & relevant mods
>Slicer & slicer settings

>>2584284
>>2584286
It seems I'm in over my head with this because some of what you two suggested is unfamiliar to me.

>Ender pro 3
>no mods
>Ultimaker cura
As far as my settings I've mostly fiddled with temperature and movement speed, and modifying my retraction speed has seemingly made it less likely to thud, I changed it from 6.5mm to 5mm and speed from 30 to 25. But prior I had it at 3mm retraction and 25 speed, where it had no issues with thudding like this. I was trying to avoid the excessive stringing (which it's still doing as a side issue...) but it also only really thuds when it retracts and re-extrudes multiple times quickly. So, not sure if that's enough information, but I think it's definitely to do with something in the tube, nozzle, or the extruder itself instead of the print bed.

Would it be safe to just make retraction, say, half as slow? Put it at 12mm/s or something and see it that fixes it?

>>2584301
If you didn't assemble it properly (or got a lemon), then the rollers won't align properly with the rails. If you keep it tight at first you won't notice but the rollers will wear down and then at some parts of the travel it might teeter-totter like a four legged chair with one leg just slightly too short. Check if there's visible wear on the roller (or if you notice rubber crud buildup in the rail).

>>2584306
I'll check it after this print but it has been about 6 months since I got my printer, for what that information's worth. If I don't see any visible wear I'll attempt the slow retraction and report back.

>>2583870
Solvespace is better. Let me guess, you need more?

>>2583837
I just scrape the shit out of it with a steel spatula. Who gives a shit if you rough it up, things will just stick better.

>>2583889
i’ve actually been having trouble scraping things off my plates and sometimes metal shavings come off so this definitely sound super nice!
i might need to adjust my settings with how long the base layer is set for

>>2583875
nta but I don't know why it didn't even occur to me that resin printers probably have these flexible plates like my FDM does, would've made so many recent prints so much simpler

>>2584316
Sometimes surface quality is important.

>>2584306
>>2584313
I didn't see any issues with the rollers and I tried the retraction but it still started messing up after this much time. I was reading on line that speeding everything up might prevent the issues because it won't have time to cool down if I increase travel speed and retraction speed, staying melted and thus still liquid, so I'm trying that now. Also increased temp. My poor bowden tube.

What I'm working on is actually work-related so I'm getting pretty worried. This is several hours of failed prints now.

>>2584387
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NCHYQV1

>>2581918
>What a stupid fucking design.
What a stupid fucking locksmith.

looking at some new in box filaments for bambu AMS:
pla+ from GST3D
PLA from 3D Solutech**
PETG from Overture
ABS from Hatchbox**
Polarpoid Premium PLA
HZST3D champaign silk PLA

**verified on ributt to work with AMS

So the biggest concern is the GST3D. there are multiple rolls of that one and they have issues with warped spools and moisture inside the dry bag. They're also a bargain bin price yeah? So how much per kg roll do you think for the GST3D?

For the rest $15/kg. Any info on the oddballs?

>>2581918
>1914
>plastic
It's Bakelite.

>>2582102
Webkit is only open source because it's a fork of KHTML which used to power Konqueror, the former default KDE web browser.
If you're looking for something open source that was made by Apple and is widely used CUPS is a better example.

idk much about this but it comes down to $210 with the aliexpress sale
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804665240548.html

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804643585385.html

>>2584520
>Le Troon XY Chromosome
For $200, why the fuck not? You can always transition it later into a crude mockery of that Voron that it will never be!

>>2584465
No, it's not. I know Bakelite is a nice famous brand name even the zoomers recognize, but believe it or not it isn't the only "plastic" that existed before WWII, it was just the first commercially successful synthetic plastic.

It's shellac, it looks right, it broke right, it's by far the most likely option given the year, doesn't at all resemble Bakelite.

Have any of you tried something like a belt extruder or an extruder with herringbone or double helix gears instead of the standard bondtech-style gear(s)? What were your experiences?
>pic related "proper extruder" by proper printing

>>2584514
Apple bought the company that made CUPS in 2007 and had no involvement prior.
Webkit was forked in 2001, less than 2 years after the first release of KHTML with KDE 2.0 in October of 2000, unless you count the previous related khtmlw, which I don't because it was completely rewritten.

If you want to get into it, the XNU kernel is opensource and in every single product that runs a Darwin-derived OS. Of course, that wasn't theirs originally either, it was from NeXT, because Apple was as useless heap of shit without Jobs around. Of course, it was a useless heap of shit when he was around too. Modern Apple may as well be NeXT, shame they didn't adopt the name when they bought them out and abandon the Apple name they'd ruined.

>ordered FLSUN Super Racer
>supposed to be coming this Thursday
>they gave it to the fucking worst courier ever, always had terrible experiences with them

I'm cursed.
These are the people that make you sit in front of your house the entire day, never show up, then the next day when you ask about your missing package they say "we came but nobody was home"
It's like I'm in the fucking Twilight Zone every time these people are on the job, help

Is a 60 degree C chamber temp good enough for larger nylon parts?

>>2584625
Absolutely, more than enough for the vast majority of Nylon.

>>2584197
Ok have tried. Removed the line and did offsets, new home, horizontally, vertically and nothing, still cuts the corners... I'm gonna compile marlin for 235x235 and call it a day fuck their software. I mean look how much space there is left

Never had a 3d printer but always wanted to get one, a uni classmate is selling his resin printer at a good price, should I buy it or should I look for a filament printer?

>>2584762
Don't get a resin printer as your first printer unless you exclusively plan on printing figurines or something, and even then I'd buy new.

Doesn't melting plastic give off harmful fumes? Is it really safe for you guys to be doing this shit where you live?

>>2584765
>Is it really safe for you guys to be doing this shit where you live?
People have been 3d printing for a while before this
>https://chemicalinsights.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/Chemical-Insights_3D-Toxicity-Report_final.pdf
And no one has died, so let's put it on the tobacco category, sure you won't die tomorrow but at some point you should take measures

its fine just wear your cuck covid mask that'll protect you

>>2584768
>People have been 3d printing for a while before this
n'wah people have been drinking pulverized jade dust to gain immortality for a while before this.

>>2584762
I have both, here's my experience.

FDM printers are "easier" to get into but harder to use. They are much slower, much more finicky, much more troubleshooting, and the parts you print are always going to "look" 3d printed. FDM Printers have way way more moving parts and that means way more trial and error to get things working. the benefits are you can print a wide range of materials and the prints can be orders of magnitude stronger. If you want to print functional parts, parts that move, replacement parts, etc- go with FDM.

Resin printers are easier to use, easier to print, get better looking prints by orders of magnitude, and much much more forgiving in case of a part failure. The downsides are that resin is an absolute mess and way more "involved" than FDM. There is no point in getting a resin printer if you do not have a dedicated space to use it (If you don't have a dedicated space, you will never use it.) the resin smells like shit and is toxic, it gets literally everywhere if you're not careful, and generates bottles and bottles of contaminated solvent from post-processing your parts. Where FDM parts when they're done you pop them off the plate and call it a day, resin prints must be removed from the plate, washed in IPA, supports carefully removed, washed again, dried, and cured. Then you have to clean up all your tools, workspace, any silicon mats, etc. Every batch of prints I do (Full plate) generates a grocery bag full of used gloves and paper towels coated in resin and alcohol. The most important part though: If you want to print statues and miniatures, or parts that only exist to "look cool" there is no question that resin printers are what you want. Printing statues with FDM big enough that they resolve details is a 10+ hours long adventure for a still mediocre product you will then need to somehow finish with spackle or filler.

tl;dr it depends what you want to print:
Miniatures and figurines? Resin
Everything else? FDM

>>2584765
I have my printers in a vented room. PLA is pretty benign though, basically just gets dissolved by your body if you inhale any dust. I wouldn't print anything beyond PLA in a living space.

>>2584797
>>2584764

Thank u loads

>>2584797
I don't think it's fair to say that FDM parts will always look printed. We accept that resin prints require post processing, then I think it's fair to compare it to FDM prints with post processing.

>>2584805
Post processing resin prints to have them look good vs post processing FDM prints to have them look good is not even comparable. If I print a statue out FDM and want to post process it, I have to add some kind of filler, smooth, and sand it. You just don't get the resolution from FDM you can get with SLA- Unless you have an FDM printer that can get 20 micron layer height and an z/y resolution of 35 micron

>new p1p
>My first print is more beautiful than 90% of anything else I've printed in the past
It's hard to tell because its a bit blurry but it was one of the cleanest prints I've ever had. Supports came off by hand and I've never ever seen that before.

>>2583816
>>2583819
uh no. the taps are no bigger than the shaft. removing them is zero issue.

the problem is if you need self tapping then you didn't plan for the screw and that means you're going to tap through a few wall layers and be into infill and no screw is going to not destroy shit there. the solution is to put in a casing cylinder, but at that point you put a hole in it and you no longer need self tapping screws. The only use I see would be to go through a flap into something else (wood) for mounting and then it also won't screw up the plastic by removing.

>>2583329
>it's 0 because the room still reeks of plastic.
you should put up a bunch of crystals, they'll triple the effictiveness of the bags.

>>2584807
Post processing a resin print so that it's fully cured and stuff is roughly the amount of effort it takes to remove layer lines and stuff on FDM. It's definitely fair to compare them and I even told that other poster that if they want to do figurines to get a resin printer because that's the one place where it'll really matter for most users.

>>2584807
>If I print a statue out FDM and want to post process it, I have to add some kind of filler, smooth, and sand it.
here's where you're wrong

>>2584540
I think you may be right.

My printer is otherwise fine but when a design has a round hole it makes it into an oval and shit fuck fuck fuck

>>2584797
Wait, are you saying resin printing is a no no for things like gears? I'm guessing that good resin for things that are not meant to be brittle is costing quite a lot?

>>2584863
you can get stronger resin, but in my experience I'd just FDM gears unless you need them smaller than you can get on FDM.

>>2584863
I say a vid with a test and the FDM gears lasted way longer than resin. I've printed some pretty nice nylon gears, not surprised as there is a lot of stronk if they are printed flat as it makes the layer profile perpendicular to the teeth.

Also Fusion360 has some really nice gear tools that understand that gear teeth are more than just rectangles. It's what got me started with F360 actually.

Pew pew, DIVERSITY ROCKS!

has anyone ever tried making their own pla?
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK44131/
i wonder if some cheap chinese machine exists for it

>>2584768
>People have been 3d printing for a while before this
people doing stupid shit in the past does not excuse continuing to do stupid shit after you're aware of it.
That being said, I'm one of the lucky ones to have a fully enclosed printer in the basement. Most of the ABS fumes seem to deposit on the inside of the enclosure.
That being said, It's also right next to my treadmill, so I will either not run a print if I'm running, or not excessive if a print is running.

>>2584831
I thought about getting a p1p but then I saw that they use proprietary hotends alongside a lot of other parts. You also have to send the printer back if anything goes wrong and pay for shipping so I decided to wait and see how their products pan out. That print does look really nice though, anon. The printers themselves are cool but I can't justify buying such a closed off machine. If they go more open source then I'll definitely hop on the train.

For only $1000 more, you can pre-order a soon-to-be-released Prusa XL CoreXY printer AND have it come fully assembled! What a deal!

>>2584986
Prusa has already started shipping small batches of the XL to their biggers cuc... I mean customers, your argument is erroneous!

>>2584542
The guy that designed z belt for ender 3, is working on a belted extruder.
>https://kevinakasam.com/the-papilio/

I was thinking of alpha testing it, but I thought I had majority of the required bom, but I didn't so I decided not to, since if belted extruders were good, we would see more of them, right?

>>2584670

Are you planning to do dual z screw?

>>2584777
>thinking layered cotton mask is actually comparable to rated kn95 filtered masks.

Its annoying that people are treating those as if they're the same. In Murica we made our own so the hospital workers can have the actual kn95 rated masks, layered cotton only gave *some* protection, not guaranteed to protect you.

Like anyone fucking remembers that or cares anyway.

>>2584957
Yeah that does sound pretty gay not gonna lie. It struggled just a bit with tree supports but honestly I'm surprised it got that far at that speed.

>>2585009
Idk why my photos are rotating though so sorry about that

>>2585011
Crop them a bit in your camera and the orientation will carry over correctly to 4chinz.

>>2585031
*Camera phone. For me it's just a camera though, because nobody ever calls me on it.

It's not really all that thought provoking of a design, but I made some frames for my lenses (I had to model it by hand since I don't have a 3d scanner). I'm still a notice so it doesn't have hinges or anything, but I can produce replacements in under an hour, with modular parts in case something or another breaks.

>>2585050
But uh, hmm... *tp tp tp*
Something about practical designs don't taste quite right to me. So since I have a base model for these perfectly normal and functional glasses frames handy, I'm going to take it a step further and make it really retarded.

Articulated arms on both sides with which I can hold things, a flashlight holder that also double as devil horns in the middle, I'm trying to think of other stupid shit I can add to these in the future for the next iteration. Any ideas, /3dpg/?

>>2585052
OLED module holder for RSVP reading
welding-helmet LCD holding bracket for auto-darkening
curved semi-reflective pieces of plastic for infinite-focus POV display
RGB

What the fuck were they thinking? https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/smartmaterials-natural-black-innovatefil-tpu-carbon-fiber-filament-05kg/sk/MPUP9VNN?aff=7574

>>2585075
>Due to the stiffness of the plastic, it can be perceived as easier to write with than normal TPU
No shit

>>2585075
TPU is extremely resilient/wear resistant, extremely strong, has great inter-layer adhesion, and very impressive chemical resistance. There are already very stiff varieties of TPU available, like NinjaFlex Armadillo with a 75D hardness comparable to a hard-hat.

Okay CF-TPU is still fuckin' weird and I don't see the point of it.

>>2585052
Magnification options like optivisors.
Headstrap arm replacements for extreme glasses.
Third point of contact over-head strap for heavier duty attachments.
X-ray vision.

>>2585005
kevin plz go

>>2584670
I finally did it. After installing Marlin for stock E3 it finally printed the whole model. Still something is fucked. Printed on the edge. I'm guessing its the X offset?

>>2585006
Heh, I got this 3rd party part since mine was not in the box when I bought it (but it was super cheep). I don't have any plans for the moment.

>>2585120
oh no im not kevin lol Im just saying belted extruder is questionable since we dont see that many being used.

>>2585052
Make flip down sun glasses.

>>2585052
make cosplay goggles that your lenses fit in.

>>2585005
>but I didn't so I decided not to
it's like there is a reason we don't see more of them. can't put my finger on it because I'm also too lazy to lift a finger.

>>2585189
make flip up glasses.

Having a nozzle camera is peak comfy. Even without the nozzle in focus the perspective is much better especially for the first layer.
So far it's handled the last 2 hours of ~65*C chamber temps fine, or at least hasn't dropped any frames yet. I used some silver bezel wire and aluminum tape for mounting and to act as a heatsink.
Hopefully the following camera module will have a shorter focus distance but if not the longer ribbon cable will still make positioning easier.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804800982281.html

>>2584132
>>2584141
Hardly. It does however leave an oily residue on the interior surfaces of your lungs.

>>2585052
Build some speakers into the arms pointed inwards.

i need to try making a pair of glasses again. last try didnt sit right on my nose and i guess the angles were fucked up cause after a few days would give me splitting headaches! also had made clip on shutter shade attachments!

>>2584520
You can pimp it into a VZBot.

>>2584543
Based open source knower.

>>2585227

>>2585123

>fluorescent pla
why the fuck does this exist
you need uv light to make it glow, but uv light also kills it
the only filament stupider than that that i've seen is glow in the dark pla
of course i own both why do you ask

>>2585264
>fluorescent pla
Phosphorescent, you tard.

>>2585270
Glow-in-the-Dark is Phophorescence, fluorescence is your nail polish that glows under the blacklight in your closet.
That nigga literally specified that it's "stupider than [...] glow in the dark pla".
Try harder next time you retarded faggot.

>>2584573
it came and I was being a faggot.
It's a really solid printer too so far, the test print has really good detail for how tiny it is (I screwed the nut in myself afterwards, they printed separately)
Tomorrow I want to see how far I can push this thing's speed, any FLSUN Super Racer anons ITT? What's your Cura settings?

>>2585264
did you know his apartment flooded

>>2584911
I say it depends on the context

>>2585301
MOLD.

>>2585297
Tuuuune, tune for accelerations, junction deviation, find your max flow rate.
The SuperRacer is genuinely very fast, your hotend should be your biggest limitation.
200mm/s, 14k accel, 7k decel, good starting point for a Super Racer.
Crank your speeds to the moon and limit the volumetric flow to the most your hotend will reliably keep up with.

I think the SuperRacer is underappreciated for how quick it can be out-of-the-box.
I like to compare it to the AnkerMake M5, which is $200-$300 more and slower than the SR despite their only real selling point being speed.

fucking chinese pre-made wires

COPE TIME!
I've been researching different kinds of supports and found out about the progress that Cura and the various other slicers have been making towards the notorious "tree" type of support, that essentially do the job but with less plastic and more importantly by being a lot easier to remove.
Now my question is this: through the use of these supports can my FDM printer compete with resin printers when it comes to miniatures? I'll do very thin layers bros I swear

>>2585363
>can my FDM printer compete with resin printers when
no.

>>2585264
It glows in UVA like from a 405nm LED, which doesn't break it down. You need UVB at least to break down a chemical.

finally got around to making a camera mount that isnt a piece of scrap meatal bolted to the frame, got worried about interfacing with 2020 extrusion, but its really simple
>10mm in from each face, 20mm spacing for the 4 holes

>>2585396
and on the topic of mods, i dont supose there is a always on 12v rail on the motherboard anywhere..
>hotend fans are 24V
>steppers and heaters are obviously 24v
kinda want to eliminate the wall wart that powers the camera and put a RCA jack on the back of the printer so its not just a random wire that plugs into the rest of my video system

>>2585398
Use an LM2596 module like everyone else does when they want to run a 12V PC fan on it.

>>2585400
yea figured id have to do that and just tap off of the power supply

>>2585417
>>2585417
>>2585417
>>2585417

New bread new bread

>>2585198
>https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804800982281.html

I did same thing with an endoscope. IDK if the endoscope sucks or what but frames suck ass, could be my MCU as well. my logitech performs better, so it could just be hardware for the camera. Thanks for the link, Just add that to my Wishlist for now..

>>2584849
Are you running a Bambu printer by chance?
I had a similar problem and it turns out that the slicer was mangling 3mf files for some reason. Converting the files to another format seemed to fix it. No idea why this happened.

>>2585155
thats exactly what kevin would say!
kevin confirmed

>>2585264
>Glows in your darkness.
>Doesn't elaborates.
>Leaves.

Can you paint PLA with hand? Which paint type would be the best?

>>2586395
feet.
Acrylic.

>>2586395
Just make sure to prime your shit, otherwise paint will run.