/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Rigid mount my Dragon HF?
>Rigid mount my Dragon HF.

I cannot stop getting tiny little holes in prints, it's like my extrusion messed up randomly and it's not a clog.

>>2570354
>rigid
>v-rollers
lmao nice try

>>2570370
It's called rigid mounting because you attach the dragon hf using 4 screws instead of the v6 style collet you imbecile.

>>2570354
I love a 5 minute print.

>>2570373
You're still making to rigidity equivalent of putting a granite countertop on an Ikea table. V-rollers are only useful for having something to print the parts needed for a linear rail conversion.

>>2570373
I literally don't give a fuck. The Manta MK2 printhead I got holding my dragon now is needlessly complex and annoying to take a part. This design will be much more simple and I'll be giving it away for free when im done to retards like you because. I'll get a linear rail conversion when I've saved up enough money to buy a ratrig 3.1 kit. Don't want to half ass something but rather do it correctly. My bed is so incredibly warped that putting linear rails on this piece of shit ender 5 plus won't help me anyway.. Anyways, im going to make the ducts for the 5015 fans now and also add a pinheader for connecting everything. It's gonna be sweet. Or should I use 4028 fans instead?

Could something like this be printed out of TPU? The original is made out of rubber and I've heard that TPU is kinda like rubber.
It's about 4*4*2 cm in size.

Creality Ender-3 V2 or Sovol sv01? both seems to be very similar except Sovol supports a bit larger prints and also a bit cheaper. I think I will go for Sovol

>>2570540
Also Creality having 20 different products all sharing similar names kinda rubs me the wrong way to be honest. Are they trying to confuse buyers or something?

>>2570541
Creality makes money on upselling
They make a cheap-ass printer that "works" but with some major deficiencies. They toss a few upgrades to the base printer to fix the deficiencies that only costs them a few bucks to implement but then charge $50-100 over the base printer.

Despite all the versions, all models pretty much operate the same. Alot of the gcode can even be swapped between different versions of the same model.

The fucked up thing is you can buy the most expensive version of an ender 3 (the S1 Pro) that's anywhere from 2.5-4x the cost of the base model and still have a pig of a printer

>>2570607
>>2570540
Im never touching creality again in my life. Im saving up for a RatRig V3.1. Vorons are nice but almost twice as expensive in kit form compared to it. Fuck creality. It's cancer.

>>2570509
"Yes."
You could also print it out of plastic, or cast a copy in aluminum, or hand-carve one out of wood.
TPU and TPE are soft, flexible, rubber-like materials, but they're sure as shit not Buna-N or EPDM.
The object in your picture would be straightforward to measure up and print a copy of, but whether or not TPU or TPE will work for it depends on what the hell it is and the job it's doing.

>>2570647
It's a seal. Most likely from a brake piston.

>>2570540
If your buying an Ender 3 get a Neo or a Neo V2. They are the latest Ender 3's and come with Creality's version of BL Touch

>>2570650
That'd sure be a bad idea for printing in TPU. However, it'd be a great candidate for casting.
Hell the original in those photos looks good enough I doubt you'd need any printing at all, just make a mold and cast it.
You can cast polyurethane, neoprene, or silicone with relative ease, no easy route to nitrile though.

>>2570509
I don't know what that is, but I can safely say that TPU will work well for the application. TPU is literally the best 3D printable material for everyday items, except for the fact that you have to print at 30mm/s (unless you let NinjaTek fuck you in the ass in exchange for 60mm/s).

>>2570642
>Vorons are nice but almost twice as expensive in kit form compared to it
LOOL, no: https://www.formbot3d.com/products/voron-24-corexy-3d-printer-kit-with-different-print-sizes-for-choice
Don't go for the ratrig, trust me.

>>2570690
What a bold and stupid statement from someone who's never worked with fuel, oil, hydraulic fluid, or any remotely dangerous chemicals.
Go ahead, print a gasket for your fuel pump in TPU. It'll seal fabulously as it swells and gels.

>>2570696
>It'll seal fabulously as it swells and gels.
Thanks for proving my point for me!

>>2570694
Whats the issue with ratrig exactly? I can only find a LDO voron kit in EU. And that shit would set me back $2000. The ratrig 300x300 kit would set me back $1300... Sourcing parts individually is insanley fucking boring.

Can you screw/nut directly into plastic? with a solid hole, slightly tight so the screw can gold on? Or do you need pic related inserts and nuts?

>>2570786
I forgot pic related inserts

>>2570786
You're asking if you can put screws in plastic?
Yes, you can put screws in whatever. In fact, they make special screws for things like wood, metal, bone, drywall, flesh, even plastic believe it not.

>>2570786
You can
Screws can self-tap into plastic but the threads can be quite weak and wouldn't stand up too much torque, loading or repeated use.
Course thread screws will be better for this.

>>2570801
Ideal is screws actually intended for tapping into plastic.
Pull the screws out of any cheap plastic piece of electronics, like a Gameboy or a McDonald's toy.
They're very coarse, the threads are thin, the profile is triangular rather than round.
Pick up some cheap plastic thread-forming screws online, they're so fucking nice to have around, and easier to work around than inserts.
Use inserts when you expect to be removing that fastener over and over again.

Still trying to waste extra shit that's laying around unused. Today, an peephole camera.
Here's yet another ESP32-CAM, with a little 1.3" 240x240 display, a USB-C port for power, a piece of copper tape as a capacitive button, and 3 magnets for easy install/removal.
Stream's accessible via WiFi, or touching the face of it will show the feed on screen until it's been released for 10 seconds.
It'll push 25FPS easily, but adjusted for much better quality I've dragged it all the way down to 15FPS, which is split between the screen and the stream if both are active simultaneously.

>>2570786
Plastic self tapping screws are the strongest way to fasten printed parts. Stronger than captive nuts. Stronger than heat sets. I remix so many designs to use my huge stash of M3 self tappers.

>>2570857
Grab a couple boxes of assorted M2 and M3 plastic self-tappers on the Amazons, you won't regret it faggots.

>>2570706
what voron kit you are talking? A 300 trident won't come in at 2k.

>>2570786
You can nut directly into anything if you are brave enough.

>>2570786
I usually design little slots for pocket nuts for stuff I make, so I can just keep a stock of m3 nuts and screws for all my projects.

So what's the advantage of making your own shit like a voron vs a bambu labs x1 carbon?

What's a nonshit PLA brand I can get off Amazon? I'd recommend against eSun.

>>2570914
Currently, Duramic and Overture are the popular labels. Not that they're any different from one another, or from ESUN, Inland, Amolen, Hatchbox, ERYONE, CC3D, Amazon Basics, Anycubic, Sunlu, Creality, Monoprice, Flashforge, Elegoo, SainSmart, CCTree ...
Much of the branded Chink filament is the exact same shit. Not all, but a hell of a lot of it.

Elegoo PLA+ is currently only $15-$20kg, even less in a 2 pack. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BM721XHT/
Here's some Eryone at <$17/kg if you click the coupon checkbox: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNJ2JDT
Jayo (rebranded Sunlu), some colors in the $12-$18 range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHQMXHHN

If you want to avoid eSun, for whatever reason, then you really can't risk any Chinese brand because most of them are coming from the same factories.
You might consider a name-brand that actually makes the filament they sell, like Polymaker, PrintedSolid, Paramount, 3D-Fuel, PushPlastics.

For fuck's sake don't bother with IIID Max, it's garbage and the current owner is a retarded shitskin scam artist.
No other brand has such a consistent reputation for shit-tier quality control and the inability to keep debris out of their extruders.

>>2570918
Not that anon but one big issue I've had with esun is tangled filament.
Overture petg can't make infill for shit. Meanwhile the cheapest no-name petg on Amazon actually does great even at double the infill speed.

>>2570901
The (merited) feeling of superiority.

>>2570325

>>2570930

>>2570901
you'll know every cross threaded screw and kinked wire in your voron. carbon is an expensive high tech black box you won't know how it goes together until you have to take it apart.

>>2570930
>>2570940
are you going for disturbed
cause I'm disturbed.

heh

>>2570960
>not down with the sickness

>>2570960

>>2570940
them some really bad slicer settings or bad under extrusion anon.

>>2570861
Well the LDO Voron 2.4 kit is about €1600 on 3djake, and you need to add a OrangePI and a hotend+extruder... +shipping.. So it it's around €1850.. The ratrig is cheaper and of comparable performance... I guess I could source the parts myself cheaper if i find some good store that stocks most things.

>>2570930
>>2570940
>>2571017
Should have used a 1.2 nozzle for even shittier quality.

>>2570540
SV06, the price difference is ridiculous and the quality improvement is really high.

>>2571080
The Ratrig is fine.

I was about to pull the trigger on one last year, but IIRC you had to source the panels separately. After getting quotes for custom cut set of acrylic panels the cost for the build spiraled out of control so I got a Trident kit instead. If the cost was the same I would have gotten the Rat Rig and I see that they offer the acrylic panels now so maybe the price for an actual complete kit can be competitive.

>>2571172
Ok, yeah I'll save up for a ratrig then. I also considerd the HevORT and Annex K3.. But again sourcing parts is a big deal with those. The only thing that bothers me is that you can't order printed parts for it in anything else than PETG and I do plan on buying the enclosure so I can have a heated build space and carbon filter for ABS and ASA printing. That a minor issue though. What I did like about it is the fact that it uses 3030 profiles..

Thanks for bringing up the acrylic panels I'll have to do some research about that. Perhaps I can replace acrylic with aluminium sheet metal as I do have means to cut that to size and drill holes. I'll insulate them with cork sheets. Or ask around if any of my friends has a cnc router. Should be doable, really. Worst case scenario I'll just go full hillbilly retard and use plywood, I could make it look really good with some sanding paper and paint in the end. kek. If there's a will there's a way.

>>2571192
aluminum should be fine unless you're printing in a garage or unheated space. you're maintaining the air volume temp in an active environment not insulating per se.

>>2571172
well one of the reasons for the expensive panels is, that ratrigs are fucking huge if you want an enclosed one... pic related, voron 250 on left, middle ratrig 200, bambu lab x1 carbon (256) on the right

>>2571215
>you're maintaining the air volume temp in an active environment not insulating per se
Even if you get the aluminium sheets together in a way that makes them airtight you will still lose a lot of heat because aluminium is conductive.
I had a cardboard box enclosure for my E3, now I've made a proper enclosure with lack tables and 2cm EPS panels. Cardboard could hold around 45C while printing ABS, the EPS holds 65C despite crooked cuts leaving open spaces here and there.

This Sunlu is shit. I can't print models with non-continuous geometry, I can't even do ~<90% infil without a ton of little string chips that fragment all over the place like shitty snow.

I'm guessing it's something with retraction. What can I do to tune that?

>>2571294
Change the setting

>>2571294

It's coming along!

Is there a point in making Voron 2.4 350mm gantry/toolhead lighter? Or the whole frame would rattle anyway? Aluminum 20x20x1.5mm profile for the gantry, single MGN9, miniStealthburner with Sailfin, no drag-chains, klicky probe.

>>2571327
But where does the air go?

>>2571383
Air go whoosh.

>>2571383
It exits at the back here, idk if i should incorporate a small wing to guide air away from the print.. As for the part cooling ducts, I've yet to model them. I'll think of something, but i'll probably use the walls of the hotend fan shroud meaning i could probably make those 2mm thinner and still maintain stiffness then again that might be a horrible idea as you might want to be able to adjust the duct nozzle height.. Also unsure if the BL-Touchbshould go behind the nozzle like this, it would be very protected by surrounding hardware and it would make the whole solution as compact as possible..

>>2571400
Bruh, did you just chink my design?

>>2571302
>>2571316
Can't even finish a fucking temperature tower to begin calibrating this shit ass filament.

>>2571367
What are you going to do with a light toolhead?
>inb4 going fast
Whatever you gain you will piss away with a high flow hotend to keep up with those speeds and adequate part cooling.
If you're not going fast then you won't gain anything by doing weight reduction.

>>2571417
>starts off at low temp
Small brain moment.

>>2571422
I am an absolute retard and can't figure out how to change the gcode and I'm too fucking lazy to open the file and do it myself so I just downloaded something off Pritnable.

>>2571423
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#temp if you're too retarded to use this, give up on 3d printing altogheter.

>>2571172
ratrig still don't offer the panels. I wish they did because getting quotes for them is a nightmare and i dont know anyone with a cnc cutter

part cooling fans on my printer broke, gotta wait for the chinks to email me back...but it looks like i can print 0.4mm still if i go real slow

I tried my first print. Went through leveling with a piece of paper and all that, was printing an X to check level. The skirt printed fine, centered on the bed, good adherence. Then the print head shifted all the way south and started printing the X at the bottom (front) edge of the bed. Any thoughts on why?

Ender 3 pro
Using cura to slice

>>2571518
check the preview in Cura -- what's the problem though?

>>2571518
Sounds like layer shift. Most likely caused by the nozzle colliding with a curled part of the print.

>>2571522
This is what I ended up with. Before I aborted, it started printing the line going to the right of the bed where the filament trails off from.

>>2571531
Gcode corruption

The included 8GB sdcard is a piece of shit.

Pew pew pew

>>2571539
Any way to diagnose and fix in the gcode? No time today to run out and buy a new card

>>2571543
No. If the card is bad then it will throw all sorts of errors.
It is possible to print without the card, directly through USB. Get pronterface and print from that.

>>2571540
neat
does it cycle printed bullets?

>>2571576
Nope, it's just a big gun shaped solid chunk of PLA unfortunately.

check out my lil fall guy

>tree supports snap off after 4 hours of printing just a few layers before the thing they're supposed to support is placed down
>the spaghetti that's printed in place of the supports manages to curl in such a way that it resumes printing the supports as intended
God is good I hate this hobby though

I'm bracing myself to knuckle down and get to learning some cad.
I'd like to know if theres a small library of standard "parts" like threaded screw attachments, hotshoes, braces I can just have a library of like photoshop paint brushes?
i'm the only one among my friends who fucks with this shit so I have no ones shoulder to look over and get an idea of what the workflow from sketch to print is like

>>2571068
ye under temp and pretty wide extrusion width on 1mm nozzle, just testing and trying to get the prints out fast

>>2571531
Isn't that just stalling against edge of travel? Though I'd expect that to cause slipping, so maybe it's your slicer clipping it, or your printer firmware just replacing any value over its limits with that limit. You may need to just scale your print down, or else try to increase the printing size in your slicer/firmware.

>>2571540
Do the mag or slide move at all?
Make it hollow and put weights in it, and mount a laser pointer in the end. Run around in the forest holding it and pointing it at things for exercise.

Could you 3D print a body kit? I'm thinking if you made hollow shells and filled them with foam or something after they'd be fast printing and strong enough. Then you'd sand, bolt the pieces together, fill the seams, and paint. Not looking for a show car body, I just want to make my go kart look vaguely like one of those little old roadsters.

>>2571744
Yes, definitely. You'd probably need to print using a bunch of supports though. Other options include:
>printing a plug to vacuum-form over
>printing a plug/mould to roll ductile sheet (metal) over
>printing a mould to lay composite cloth onto
>printing a guide to lay wooden/metal ribs into, to cover with cloth

>>2571490
>Not pictured: .357 holding the camera for his harem.

>>2571704
Grabcad.com, just don't trust anything you download there to be 100% true to life, because some people don't know how to use a set of calipers.

>>2571704
>>2571785
I mostly use McMaster... you can download partfiles directly from McMaster for most of the hardware they sell.
In addition to grabcad, the other big online library is TraceParts.

Solidworks has a built in library called Toolbox too

>>2571744 I have tried printing 600x450x150mm covers with abs. Gluing warped parts was no fun.

>>2571808
I see 2 problems
1. you are shit at printing ABS
2. if you know you are shit at ABS you really should use something else for large parts.

>>2571824 This thing could heat up to 60C. PLA would melt, PETG would hold but cant be reliably glued/painted. Fancy ABS+ is pricey and would still warp.
Also a doubt anybody could print large ABS parts warp free on stock ender 3 with cardboard enclosure.

>>2571828
What about welding the petg? Chamfer the edges and print triangular lenghts that you weld in place using heat?

>>2571829 I have not tried welding. In my experience PETG is not easy to sand and it could be glued only with CA glue. Epoxy, automotive putty, spray can paint does not stick well to it.

>>2571828
>Also a doubt anybody could print large ABS parts warp free on stock ender 3 with cardboard enclosure
If you don't have one already a PEI surface works wonders for ABS adhesion.
But yes, cardboard enclosure is a bit shit. Get lack tables and EPS panels and you can keep at least 60C in there easily.

>>2571849 PEI? Nah im a cheapskate. I use glass with PVA modified phenolic glue. Also cant go over 45C chamber temps due to nozzle clogs and extruder skips.

What would be the better option for a 3D printer for a school, something cheap that's probably gonna take some setting up, or something pricier that's more straight forward to use? I'm leaning towards the cheaper shit that way I could maybe pick up a couple of them and just have them running, but I'm not sure if the potential for others to use them would require something that's basically retardproof.

>>2571857
Cheap shit only works if you have a kinderd spirit with good knowledge and experience. But avoid Creality. Seriously.

>>2571859
I thought of going with an Anycubic. I'd try to pick up a Prusa but I doubt I'd be able to get it signed off on if there are cheaper options around.

>>2571860
Do yourself a favor and ask for quotes on 3d printers for education on your schools normal procurement channels. There's a good chance you'll get quotes for +$2500 microbrand dogshit printers with additional extras for consumables and educational materials. Educational technology is expensive as fuck and resellers love to prey on clueless educators spending government dime.
After those quotes you can easily offer the chance of picking up the 3 prusa minis for less.
A similar scenario happened at our college. They bought a $5k Minifactory that hardly ever worked and basically collected dust for few years before they bought 3 Prusa Mk3s's to replace it which are churning pretty much 24/7.
I'm not advocating the czechjew's printers for personal use but the customer support is worth the price when you're trying to work with the damn thing

>>2571867
Good call. I'm honestly keener on picking up the cheap shit since it's what I have at home and find incredibly easy to use once it's set up. All I can think of as a downside is I'd have to write incredibly detailed instructions if anyone takes the class on me, but even though it's fairly intuitive.

>>2571857
ender 3 is pretty simple to set up and run. not too expensive. mid range tier.

>>2570356
check your extrusion setting on the slicer, if it's not set to 100% you'll have problems, but usually it's the retraction, set it small, like 6, no more. That'll prevent clogs and extrusion problems. Also the print head my be wiggling a little bit. If you have a rough top surface as you print that's likely the cause. Tighten the bitch up.

>>2570509
yes it can, problem is you want a good water seal assuming it's for plumbing, especially if it's for a toilet or you'll have a sewage leak. So it's better to buy a real replacement. If you've never worked with tpu before you shouldn't try to fix plumbing with it in my opinion. It can be a difficult material. But in theory yes. It's a shape that tpu would do fine with.

>>2570647
Oh a fren said it might be a brake piston. If that's the case don't try to print it. Just buy one. TPU is not heat resistant, quite the opposite in fact. And even if it were heat resistant the liabilities of working on brakes are enormous. So just buy a replacement.

>>2570914
Hatchbox. I use it exclusively. Not too pricey but good. Their PETG is hit or miss. Sometimes super stringy, but their PLA is very good, extremely low odor.

>>2571327
open hole in the bottom part on one side so you can slide it in and out without removing the hotend. Also add large vents on the left side of the sneed 3d so the fan pushes the air out the side. You're overall package size is so tight you will get overheating without large vent holes.

>>2571490
point a regular fan at your printer for time being to prevent heat creep. generally hot end fan is a 40mm. Replacement cost for a good noctua type is around $13 on amazon, but you can get a cheap one cheaper. Get some shrink tubing and cut the original fan cord and strip the wires and put the shrink tubing over the ends of the wires and splice new one on. Easiest way to fix it in my opinion. You just need to look at the fan and see if it's 12v or 24v before ordering.

>>2571870
On that Note, I have good experiences on the Fokoos Odin. The only gripe is the heatbreak being a proprietary model but it's PTFE-lined so refurbishing it in case of a bad jam is easy enough.
There's customer support available through the facebook page and the community support is also pretty good. But it's not dead-nuts reliable like the Prusa support where they'll just ship parts for you when you mention what's gone wrong.
Also the Elegoo Neptune Pro is looking damn good. Can't say nothing else as I've not ran it.

>>2571531
Not sure why it's printing random lines, but it looks like the lower right corner of the bed is too low. Adjust the screw a bit to raise that side and the others just a little down to compensate. Do just a little at a time.

>>2571750
>>2571808
Oh, I guess it's already been done before, some legend built a Lambo in his garage. Looks like he just wrapped it after assembly. Neat.

I may be an absolute retard, but are there any slicers that let you configure supports to print at a different layer height?

>>2571948
SuperSlicer, which means you might also be able to do it in PrusaSlicer.

Are fumes from a non resin printer a concern? I have a 420mm 3x3 140mm fan radiator that I need to make a shroud to exhaust out the window for the summer but I can put the printer in front of it.

>>2572002
I tried the fuzzy skin mode in superslicer and it used all 23gb of ram and froze my pc.
I guess I should be more careful

>>2571948
>configure supports to print at a different layer height?
can you explain what this means? Like it extrudes thicker/coarser just for the supports? that does sound pretty cool

>>2572030
I assume that's what he means.
That's the default in SuperSlicer, I don't know in PrusaSlicer.
Supports are printed at the highest layer height specified in your machine configuration.

>>2572030
Say you're printing at a "fine" layer height like 0.1 mm. If you could set your supports to print at a "coarse" layer height like 0.2 mm, you just cut your support printing time in half.

>>2572035
3d printing software is still surprisingly limited

okay so I was printing this shape on the bottom, but when it was all finished (took like 2 fucking days) the bottom was no longer flat on the bed, and there was also a layer near the bottom that's kind of poking out a bit like it was squished. I am using an ender 3 v2, and during the print I would sometimes hear it making noises that sounded like it was too close to the print (like the nozzle scratching plastic or something). But I don't understand how all that would create this result. I watched it do the first few layers and it was completely flat on the bed, at the perfect height. Moreover, the shape was distorted enough that the lid I printed to slide into the top (I gave it a good amount of leeway as well) wasn't even close to fitting. So what the fuck?

>>2571931
imagine the truckloads of failed prints

>>2572264
It warped.
That doesn't usually happen in the first few layers though, you need to build up a few good mm of material before it starts to do this shit.
Solution is to improve bed adhesion and use a fucking brim.
Always use the brim. Always. The material cost of not using it is far greater than what you save by not using it.

>>2572321
How does a brim help with first layer adhesion ?

>>2572322
More surface area on the first layer = more adhesion
It holds the first layer down so it doesn't warp.

>>2572323
Right. For some reason I thought you meant just a contour, not a brim/rim that went right up to the part

>>2571540
Remember: no Russian.

>>2570354
Dragon HF clogged on me while printing PLA. Prints ABS like a dream though, but I switched back to a V6.

>>2570914
>>2570918
>>2570921
What's wrong with eSUN?
Their PLA+, ABS+ are God tier. Marble, glow in the dark, wood are great. I've heard bad things about their matte PLA and silk and stuff, and I never bought some.

>>2572359
I think I meany Sunlu. And in further retrospect, it might be Silk PLA which is why it's printing like shit.

I'm going to try fire hosing it through a 0.8 nozzle at 230C to print large simple things, like a trash bin for the poop chute.

>>2572355
You are running too much retraction if your DHF is choking on PLA. Molten plastic is getting pulled up into the heat break and resolidifying.
Or you can just switch to ABS full-time, like I did!

Finally got my first print job done
Ender 3 was literally falling apart every 2nd to 3rd print (I print 2 at once).
There is like 15 others not shown.
If these things hold up I'm getting a bambu x1 carbon

Fuck nylon

>>2572427
why.
what even are those.
i guess a stepper goes in it, because you've got a stepper there. but why so many.

>>2572321
don't use a brim just design the model correctly and use a cleaned pei sheet.
I've spent too much time removing brims with box cutters but if you just bevel the bottom of the model you can avoid sharp corners which reduces the chance of lift.

>>2572455
I hate removing brims too but often the option to design the model with no sharp corners simply isn't there.
Either you need the sharp corner or it's not your design so you'd waste more time trying to edit an STL than removing brims.
Also "just use a brim" is retardproof advice that works in almost any cases of warping.

>>2572468
I saw a guy on youtube recommend this. You add the brim to the corners in the model editor and they're easy to snip off once the thing is printed.

>>2572479
Yes, I saw that too but from my experience with ABS that will do fuckall. A decently sized model can warp that pad off the plate like it wasn't even there. If you're trying to hold PLA onto textured glass it might work, but for any materials known to be prone to warping you want the pad actually touching the model.
Also because you have to manually add this to the model this only works in your favor if you're printing big batches of the same stuff. For one off prints it's a pain in the ass.
And again, not retardproof, not download-modelproof. Brim is the safe bet.

>>2572455
>>2572468
>>2572479
>>2572480
It only takes a few seconds to run a debur tool along the bottom edge, so I say brim all the way. The tiny amount of effort is well worth the peace of mind.

>>2572480
>not download-modelproof


Can't add primitives to your slicer?

>>2572522
Yes, I can, but to do those spaced tabs would require quite a bit of fiddling. Multiply by each corner you want to protect.
Compare that to a brim which is just 2 clicks away for any number of corners.

>>2572430
They are actually a bushing for ferris wheel seats. The seats mount by slipping over 2 pins on the wheel. The bushings provide something to rotate against that isn't bare metal. Need 32 of them for 16 seats.

>>2572321
It uh, didn't work. It looks like the lines weren't printed close enough together to form a strong brim. I don't know if it's an issue with the bed not being perfectly level or if there's a setting in cura I can change to make the brim stronger or something. Also this warping happened like less than a third of the way through the print, so if it continues like this all the way up, it's gonna need a hell of a lot of adhesion I feel like

I bought a Creality halot1 for miniature printing. Is it a bad brand? Compleat greenear.

>>2572551
>3d printed ride parts

>>2572594
I hope they're installed somewhere that isn't humid.

>>2572605
I mean, it's a fairly humid climate outside, but it's not that bad in here and I guess I could make it dryer but I'm printing with a pretty fresh roll of filament, I doubt it's gone bad that fast. Haven't had any issues like this even with much worse quality filament

>>2572601
i think it's for lilliputians or something

>>2572594
>his warping happened like less than a third of the way through the print
Yes, that's usually where it happens. Below a certain height there isn't enough material laid to stress the first layers enough to warp. Past a certain height you have enough material laid to keep it stiff enough so it will stop warping.
From the looks of your brim you might be just a little too high off the bed. Also print the first layer real thick, such as 0.32 height for 0.4 nozzle, that will help a lot.

>>2572594
I don't see any glue stick on there, that'll solve the problem - ordinary pritt stick.

>>2570325
Hello, is there a "3d-printing" friednly font? I am trying to make dog tags with recessed text, and most are printed very badly (because the tags are small) 8's, 3's and 9's are really bad

>>2572595
Creality is chinese shit. The ender 3 was good because the chinese didn't design it, all their subsequent printers have retarded firmware that refuses to read any files with a space in the filename. The machines work just about and are cheap so they're worth buying occasionally

>>2572646
roboto is reasonable with a 3mm font height
try a smaller nozzle size if you can

>>2572601
I guess as long as the printed parts are solid/non-compressible, and they fit into an actual structural, load bearing steel hardware, i guess it should be fine. Definitely opening yourself up to lawsuits tho, if anything goes wrong

Does anyone here have a biqu b1? can I use mk8 heat breaks in it? looking to upgrade to a bimetal one.

>>2572651
thanks, I have no smaller nozzles, just a .4mm.

>>2572612
I'm referring to Nylon's performance in humid conditions, especially as a 3D printed part.
Nylon hits saturation at a given humidity in about a day, ~24 hours.
Total absorption varies significantly with the variety of Nylon, PA6 can, at total saturation, hold 9.5% of its weight in water, PA6/12 will hold 3%, PA12 around 1.4%.

Tensile strength and flexural modulus tend to decrease with increases in humidity (relative to perfectly dry), though impact strength can actually increase.
The glass transition temperature can decrease by as much as 20C.
All the additives and conditioners they can add to Nylon can affect this shit too of course.

Nylon makes big numbers under ideal conditions, but real world performance varies pretty significantly with humidity. Something that needs to be accounted for with parts that matter.

>herome now sells the guides to their models
why? Is it even worth it to upgrade to gen7, then?

>>2572715
Lol fuck no, people have moved on from that sperg and his shit.

>>2572745
what do the cool kids use these days?

Did I miss the cutoff point for the freebies?

>>2572761
Satsana remixes.
https://thangs.com/search/satsana

>>2572655
The only question is how the 3d printed parts stand up to abrasion. Original parts where also nylon just machined instead of printed. The originals lasted 10 years.

It's not a safety issue should they fail, you'll just have metal contact. That's what I've been told anyway.

>>2572715
>>2572745
>>2572761
>>2572771

I don't think herome is that bad, I think this was the generation he went to heat set inserts which seems to improve its system, imo. I switched to v6 hotends on my cheaper printers just so I wasn't restricted on what I could print, and when I came across herome, and saw the adjustable part cooling fan ducts, and went with it. Prints come out fine, overhangs as well.

While satsana is all over the place on thangs, it seems to be.. hmm.. easier to navigate the remixes for herome, but that's my opinion.

>>2572711
Just get a heated drybox that you can print from.

>>2572955
That doesn't have anything to do with that.
Not talking about printing, talking about after the print. Talking about how Nylon behaves, not how it's printed.

>>2572959
I really should start reading the entire post people write out. I tend to gloss things over very quickly...

But what can be done about it? Is it possible to dip parts in something to protect them from humidity? I find this topic quite interesting.

>>2570325
What's a good 3d printing channel you guys could recommend? I've watched Maker's Muse but he doesn't provide any material, technical or print ideas tips.

>>2573028
>print ideas
your are joking right?

>joel 3d printing nerd
>zach freedman
>Ivan Miranda

>>2572971
>possible to dip parts in something to protect them from humidity
printed parts
*do not need*
humidity protection
--only spools

printed parts
*do need*
sunlight UV protection
--yes there are

could you read that dorthy or do I need to make a picture?

>>2573028
>print ideas tips
3d printers exist for the sole purpose of printing out upgrades for themselves, in turn allowing for the printing of more upgrades. Attempting to print anything else is just wrong.

>>2573028
idk you could become one of those stupid gay cosplayers that print extremly dumb shit like an iron man mask because they're essentially man-children who hang out on reddit and that think stupid fucking superhero movies are awesome.. Or just you know learn cad and design functional parts you need. also >>2573082 is extremly correct. i think the following channels are interesting:

Vez3D, MirageC, TeachingTech, Printing 247, CNC Kitchen, Marko Reps (Marco Reps?)

>>2573057
Sheeesh so condesending even after I admit my stupid mistake... Nothing wrong with my reading comprehension. I assume paint is good enough for UV protecting nylon or simply printing coloured nylon as the pigment would only let the UV light penetrate it a little.

>>2573028
>print ideas
How to end up with 100 dumb dust collecting toys

im looking for a replacement for 74mm Victorinox scales that includes the retractable pen from the 58mm models and the tweezers/toothpick slot. i cant seem to find one on the links provided at the top. does anyone know where can i find it_

>>2573028
Get some PLA+ and start printing funs
Design your own fun accessories
If you get gud enough at cad find an obscure parts kit and design a receiver for it

>>2572971
>But what can be done about it?
Plan for it, that's what engineers do.
Don't plow ahead blindly saying that the datasheet had nice big numbers and your part will be the strong; you need to figure out how strong it needs to be and how strong it actually will be in the given application.
If a Nylon part is going in somewhere in the Southern US with ridiculous 80-100% humidity, you have to bare in mind that your Nylon parts will not have the tensile strength that they would if installed in Arizona with 0-25% humidity. That's it, just be aware of what it is and how it works, learn about the material you're working with and how it behaves in the conditions that it'll encounter in your application.

There's a shitload of conjecture in 3D printing, "PLA bad," "PETG gud," "Nylong stronk," "carbon fiber make strong," dumb niggers can't read, so they don't read datasheets.
This is why with printed guns people always be asking, "PLA? Why not PETG or ABS? I'm gonna try PETG."
Retards could just read the fucking readme and maybe a datasheet to see that they should be using 3D850 or 3D870 PLA+, which shits all over PETG and ABS in tensile strength, impact resistance, flexural modulus, etc.
Instead they end up printing in plain PLA (suicidal) or something really stupid like PETG (some varieties have piss-poor impact resistance, others don't, can you spot the difference?), CF-PLA (brittle material made even more brittle), non-reinforced PA6 Nylon (which is weaker than 3D850 or 3D870 PLA+ at 50% humidity), or Polypropylene which is too flexible for most printed pews.

Why hasn't anyone invented a 3D printer for PCBs yet? And I don't mean one that just creates the board and connections, but one that can print components as well. Printers can already use multiple filaments on the same print, so why not have:
>one filament for the board structure
>one conductive filament for traces
>a carbon-based filament for resistors
>a semiconducting filament for transistors (technically two depending on the polarity required)
Why hasn't this been done yet?

>>2573164
Because it would be garbage.
There are already "PCB printers" out there and they're useless trash.
Conductive filaments are garbage and not conductive enough. Conductive resins are garbage and not conductive enough.
Most thermoplastics are trash compared to fiberglass for thermal and electrical insulation.
>A semiconducting filament
You're a child or a troll but I'm just drunk enough for this.
This idea is bad and you should feel bad.

Maybe if you used Google you'd see the numerous examples of "PCB printers" and what a fucking useless joke they are.
Here's by far the most impressive and capable one I've ever seen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8u4izLA-SCo
(It's useless trash.)

>>2573164
If you want to "print" PCBs at home, then mill or etch your own, that's how PCBs are made at home.
We've already created 3D printed resistors, capacitors, transistors, etc.
They're horrible useless garbage, but "technically" it can be done, in a lab setting, by professionals with big budgets, as a proof-of-concept demonstration.
What you're suggesting is a fantasy.

>>2573144
any suggestions for a 22lr pistol to print? There are so many of them that I don't know which one to pick.
(preferably something that won't blow up as I like my fingers, thank you)

>>2573141
If it's niche stuff it can be that nobody has designed/uploaded it anywhere, one reason this is a /diy/ thread is bc you can design your own parts too

>>2573226
Glock with 22LR Conversion Slide.
Overpriced as fuck though, cheaper to put a complete PSA Dagger slide on it and have a 9mm like a normal white person.

>>2573226
Also, https://odysee.com/@AreWeCoolYet:7/BuckMarque:0

>>2573164
>semiconducting filament for transistors (technically two depending on the polarity required)
AAAAAAAAAAHHHHH
AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA
AAHHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH

Lets get a filament to do silicon wafers while we're at it - we could print our own CPU's!

>>2573278
6502 stl where?

>>2573226
one of the ones with a barrel liner. then you could easily make multiple different ones with a single liner. it's like, a couple bucks of material each. so, print different ones and see which you like.

>>2573257
>>2573258
I just want a "pure" plastic pistol, could be a single shot one for all I care.

>>2573308
PilotGeek's Maverick or the PM422 Songbird with a barrel liner. 22LR Barrel liners are basically barrels in and of themselves, very safe. Not the Liberator, not the Aurora, nothing with a "printed barrel." The Harlot is a gamble, it's fine if you don't fuck it up; the reppringer is a worse gamble with worse odds.

>>2573310
>Barrel liners are basically barrels in and of themselves
they aren't basically that, they are that. a barrel liner is the pressure bearing component. you can shoot through just a barrel liner all day.

>>2573308
i was looking at pic related, single action 22LR revolver. closed beta, but, it's something i've got an eye on. just pick one mate. it's 22LR, it's nothing.

>>2573319
>>>>>>>pic related
i have brain damage

What if you made a mold out of something high melting, like nylon, then printed a part out of PLA, and put it in the mold and then heated it up past the melting point of PLA.
would you effectively get an injection molded part? i mean you'd have to have 100% infill, and geometric design to allow for use of a mold, but would that work?

>>2573399
It would be shitty and full of air voids, nothing like an injection molded part where the mold is filled with molten plastic with literally multiple tons of force

>>2573400
Why?
I'm imagining something simple, like a poker chip, just for the sake of illustration. Geometrically simple. Not like, a benchy.
print it to full infill, enclose in a mold, maybe clamp the mold closed or put bolt holes on it to tighten closed. as long as you stay below the some acceptable heat deflection temp of the mold material, i don't know why you wouldn't get a better part. better surface finish, fewer internal defects, better anisotropy.
depending on the thermal expansion of the plastics, you could probably even get some effective compression while heated without the parts welding themselves together.
i think it probably has potential. maybe even better with molds made of resins, due to better surface finish, rigidity, and heat tolerance.

>>2573402

I've been keeping my filament (mostly IIID PLA+, PETG & TPU in a dehydrator in spare room at 60C (140F) for months now - haven't noticed any issues aside from occasionally some PLA+ is brittle and snaps easy - this goes away after loading it in to the printer once a day or so has passed.

What are the political... Wait, shit. What are the implications regarding the materials being baked for months at a time like this?

>>2573148
>3D870 PLA+

still pla, with all its shit characteristics... only gets "gud" after "tempering" which sucks ass as it basically ruins the print by at best just fucking up the dimensions slightly, at worst totally warping the stuff you just printed.

>>2573592
what are the bad charactaristics about PLA?
it's pretty unbelievable how good of a plastic it is for the price, barring the one problem with it, the low glass transition temperature.

>>2573402
There are many people on YT doing this, only they use PET bottles. Check out how they do it.

>>2573164
It's kinda impressive how little you understand materials involved in electronics. And 3d printing.

>>2573174
For HV capacitors PLA is actually pretty decent. Especially if you use white filament, the titanium oxide pigment improves electrical permittivity significantly. Add your own foil.

>>2573402
check out the guy who remelted prints in salt

>>2573626
Anealing is a bitch tho. Prints will shrink and unless you have a uniform heat they will warp, and cooling needs to be slow and uniform as well otherwise your print will warp.

>>2570918
Amazon Basics is shit.

>>2570914
Amazon itself is a crapshoot. I reordered my best and still all time favorite filament and it was absolute crap to the point I wound up throwing out more than half the roll.

>>2570914
Seconding Duramic, but you gotta go for their PLA+, not the regular stuff.
Their PLA+ is some of the best stuff I’ve printed, but their vanilla PLA has consistently been the worst.

Need your help anons, how could i solve this weird underextrusion in pic related? This usually happens right above the 1st layer and on layers where there is a change in speed. I have an ender 3 (v1, bowden tube).

>>2573747
I split the printed model at the top crack (came off very cleanly because it was quite weak) and it went to shit where there was a top outer layer

>>2573747
>>2573751
I would try measuring and calibrating the extruder e-steps (https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#esteps))

and then probably turning up the nozzle temp just a bit. Also check that your layer heights etc are reasonable if you aren't using a standard slicer profile for your setup.

I'm pretty much an amateur though, so maybe you will get better advice from a wiser anon.

I just got my sovol sv01 and set it up. It is my fiest printer. Leveling looks fine to me, but is it really? Looks like first layer is fine and smooth enough

So pic related is the first couple layers of the xyz test cube, i cancelled it after that. What weirded me is that it created this grid pattern on first two layers (first vertical lines and then diagonals). I thought my leveling was fucked up so it didn't "spread" and make a solid square but then I checked a video and it looks like that is how it goes

Why is it making this grid pattern but not solid bottom? Can't 3d printers make first layer as solid for some reason? Sorry if dumb question, i am very new

>>2573860
You're dealing with underextrusion. You should look into E-step calibration if you haven't yet done that

>>2573860
That's a raft, a way of compensating for poor bed leveling and poor bed adhesion by making a shitty "raft" to then print on top of.
They're very rarely used any more, it's just not necessary. You've got what looks like a textured glass build plate, that shit is plenty flat and easy to adhere to, you definitely don't need rafts.
When you slice your own shit, look through your settings for "rafts" and options related to them, you can and should just turn them off.

>>2573863
No, that is not underextrusion.
That's the raft of the xyz test cube included with the SV01, picrel.

>>2573863
Hmm you say that because of the thin line? And some slight unevenness on second layer? Is that something I should fix?

I will read about it, thanks

>>2573866
Ah I see, what about my second pic
>>2573869
There was a bit of thin spot on first layer and slight imperfection on second/diagonal layer

I will try a full cube tomorrow, it is a bit too late for 3d printing right now

>>2573871
Now i think about it, maybe that middle diagonals being too close to each other is not an imperfection. it is perhaps because it is the middle and those two lines at exact middle is just closer

>>2573874
Talking about these 2

>>2573592
PA6 Nylon at 50% RH ambient, IZOD impact 6.4KJ/m^2
3D870 without annealing, IZOD impact 6.3KJ/m^2
3D870 annealed, IZOD impact 9.3KJ/m^2

Sounds like you're talking shit because you're a retard who can't read and compare datasheets and published tests.

>>2573871
This is normal, because rafts are deliberately printed in a poor and stupid way that makes them more "reliable," that is they're less likely to fail regardless of how bad other settings might be.
It's totally normal for a raft to have this spacing and whatnot, nothing weird in your pics at all.

>>2573834
Havent thought of screwing around with layer heights, thanks anon!

>>2573876
>3D870 without annealing

there is no data for this without annealing, all the datasheets show 100% infill with 110°C annealing, all others tests done by people show way worse specs without annealing.

Again, there is no magic, this PLA is just a blend of god knows what with pla.

>>2573982
>cont.

pic related, are actual IZOD impact tests of various filaments available.

funny enough the horizontal impact for nylon is 5800J/m2 which is the worst possible situation and its the worst nylon there is for impact strength (PA6 which is pretty shit in that regards).

I don't know why you are trying to shill that PLA blend so much.

>>2573994
https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/IZOD-impact-properties-of-full-density-fused-with-Patterson-Pereira/298d2586b231c3c61471b6660b55d0f45b2e4b0e

I'm at my wit's end, no matter what I do my prints always clog.
I even swapped my whole hotend (old one was fucked) and it still clogs midprint. I fucking hate it, I go to check my print and it's all CLICK CLICK CLICK before I even get there.
What could be causing this? Should I have changed some configs? (changed hotend from standard Ender 3 hotend to E3D V6 clone)
Am I too dumb for this hobby? I feel like throwing this printer in the trash and picking up knitting or something.

>>2573633
The salt was a complete remelt, not just an anneal. There's a little bit of shrinkage, but if you add an extra flute of material at the top of your print that should fill any voids. The packed salt surrounding the part prevents warping. If you have a heating chamber with a PID temperature controller (e.g. furnace, toaster oven, dehydrator, etc.) it's pretty easy to make a slow cooling temperature curve.

>>2574093
>Am I too dumb for this hobby?
I feel like this might be the case.

Is your extruder a boden or direct drive? Have you fiddled with retraction and feed rate? Have you played around with temps? 3d printing is still in the early stages and requires a lot of fiddling and trouble shooting.

>I feel like throwing this printer in the trash
Don't. Give it to a school club or maker space or something.

Can someone spoonfeed me a bit on if sv01 pro is a good starting point for 3d printers? What exactly am I getting with this over, say sv06? I've been eyeballing creality printers many times before but it seems that they're not really recommended that much anymore.

>>2574093
what temps? melted tpfe tube did that to me a while ago. maybe u melted both hotends?

>>2574093
Don't despair anon, are you trying to print PLA with an all metal hotend? Clogs are almost guaranteed, in my case changing to a bimetal heatbreak solved the clogging problems with my V6 clone

Ultimate cura creates supports like this, is it normal? normally aren't they more like pipes?

>>2574163
here is the original supports on same file (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2774165))

Which one is better? The original one doesn't have supports under wings for example. Wouldn't it be harder or can wings really support itself?

(I am using sovol sv01 if that matters)

>>2574166
also what are those white squares supposed to mean? areas too thin for my printer? I understand the white bits at horns but I don't get why it complains about the edge where it starts the head (blue rectangles)

>>2574172
I am dumb, it probably just means where it starts drawing. Is that important? Will it be visible?

>>2574175
yeah
yeah

zseam. you can change where it is by changing the zseam settings.

What exactly is "resolution", I understand it is the height of layers (at least for Z resolution).

My assumption is that resolution is the smallest unit it can measure on Z axis. So a resolution of 0.1mm (my printer sv01) means it can produce layers of 0.1, 0.2, 0.3mm etc Multiplication of that steps

But this is what Cura shows me, which implies the resolution is 0.05mm. If the steps are 0.1mm then wouldn't 0.15mm "normal" resolution be bad?

Am I misunderstanding what resolution actually is (it is not the steps between Z distances it can move)? Should I expect it to produce 0.05mm resolutions?

>>2574163
>>2574166
>>2574172
>>2574175
those cura supports are normal supports for FDM printing,
The thingverse supports are for resin printers
the white dots are just the start/end of a line, it will be slightly visible and is called a seam, there are settings to scatter them, but i prefer what the slicer has already done, because if its on a corner its usually harder to see.

>>2574193
I see, thanks for the clarifications anon!

>>2574192
my man you need to do some research on your own. i understand that there's a lot to it, but a lot of these you can answer on your own.

that number is referring to how high the nozzle moves up, in the Z axis, for each layer. that is your layer height. a typical nozzle, like the one that almost certainly came with your printer, is a 0.4mm nozzle.
a normal line width is 0.4mm, the same as your nozzle. you can print a little wider than that, but no thinner than that. so you could print at 0.5mm line width, for example, but not at 0.35mm line width, on a 0.4mm nozzle. it just moves the nozzle slower to generate a fatter line, but there's obviously no way to accurately make a line thinner than the physical hole in the nozzle.

with that 0.4mm nozzle, and 0.4mm line width, a typical layer height is 0.2mm. you can look up and see the benefits or drawbacks of choosing a larger or smaller layer height.

>>2574192
also get this plugin. this guy will show you how to install it. it just explains what settings do when you hover over them, and basically answers every question you've asked.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YrvkJOPoWMc

>>2574192
resolution is just the layer height, different printers have different "magic numbers" for the z axis, height where the stepper motor and the z-axis screw pitch.
google up the magic numbers for your printer,

>>2574197
magic numbers are an old meme. with microstepping and better steppers it's just not a thing anymore.

>>2574195
I understand that setting is the layer height. What I don't understand is why Cura is showing heights of 0.05mm or 0.15mm while my printer has "Layer Resolution: 0.1mm"

I assumed that means my printer's Z motor can only move 0.1mm in steps. If so why Cura shows 0.05mm resolution? Or even 0.15mm because that is not a multiplication of 0.1mm

Imagine you have a rod of 1 meters. It means you can only measure stuff multiplication of that, 1m 2m 3m etc. You can't do 0.5m or 1.5m

So I am probably misunderstanding what "Layer Resolution: 0.1mm" exactly is or Cura is wrong about showing resolutions of 0.05 or 0.15

>>2574199
your printer can can move in like, fractions of discrete steps of the motor. if you fed it the code to do it, your printer could print at like 0.001mm layers.
i think it looks like that probably because you've set your visibility to something like "beginner mode" or something. it's trying to simplify the options for you rather than give you everything it's capable of controlling.

it's showing you those so that a beginner could just click a profile and it gives a bunch of appropriate default settings.

could be wrong, but it's probably using the term "layer resolution" to simplify the language for someone who may otherwise not understand the tool.

to give you more evidence of this, if you set your layer height, or layer resolution, or whatever (they're almost certainly synonyms), to 0.2mm, the printer is going to lay a line of filament that ought to be 0.2mm tall.
then, when its done, it'll move up vertically 0.2mm, and do the same thing again.
and if you set it to 0.3 or 0.1, switch the numbers appropriately.

and to console you, somewhat, or maybe confuse you further, cura supports adaptive layer heights. as in, you can put a lower limit and an upper limit (say, 0.12mm and 0.41mm)
and it will print finer layers when it needs more detail, and thicker layers when it doesn't; smoothly adjusting the vertical movement as needed.

get that plugin
>>2574196

and hover tooltips to see what they actually do.

First print anon here, thanks for all the answers and help /3dpg/

Looks mostly alright to me for a cheap printer (sv01). It is quite solid and no major errors. But I am not sure what is expected, anything I should be wary of or I can fix?

(1) One of the Y layers has like this weird bits of strips with a bit of empty space. I think sometimes my printer produces lines thinner than it expects. Why is that? It is not really that visible unless you closely examine it. I imagine it would disappear with a bit of sanding or even painting

(2) The bottom/Z layer is the worst, I imagine it would be better without the adhesion pad. The pad is a lot smoother

(3) This X layer has a bit of shifting. Nothing extreme, slight sanding should take it off. But is it expected?

>>2574201
Thanks anon, I will try with that plugin next

>>2574208
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_troubleshooting.html

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html

>>2574214
Hmm, looks like those holes on face Y are "Pockmarks"

I am not sure if I have "Extrusion/Woodgrain Patterns". It is there but not as severe as those images

Thanks for the links anon, I will read them more. And sorry for asking newbie questions without investigating things first

tree supports bros how are we faring?

Bros I tried putting post it notes under my PEI spring steel build surface to compensate for the warped bed. It still does not fucking work. This printer is a fucking piece of shit. Don't ever buy an Ender 5 Plus.

>>2574261
Well if you happen to 3d print for 3+ years and gain experience, you realize how stupid this sounds, not saying you are. I said same thing about my ender 3, on the verge of throwing it in the dump. I decided not to, and it prints reliably, well mainly because of mod I did. But that's it.

>>2574267
Meh, the bed is really warped man and the UBL mesh isn't really helping. Decided to try the stupid post-it thing because why not. But it looks like im going to have to make a mesh manually now or edit the mesh. Both are super fucking gay and time consuming. Especially since this ahit should just work given the fact that i have a BLTouch.

>ender 3 goes from printing perfect circles to sloppy oblong shapes
>recommended to tighten belts
>look up official instructions
>not too tight, not too loose
It's incredible to me that such a precise machine has such vague instructions. How tight should they really be? Does anybody know?

>>2574322
https://youtu.be/db20LaG2VhQ

I do this on my ender 3, and other printers.

>>2574155
you mean to tell me one of the most popular hotend designs out there doesn't work with the most popular filament type out there unless I replace parts?
That's wild

Ok, so after spending OVER a fucking hour manually building the fucking mesh it's starting to look decent. Why couldn't the fucking probe do this? WHY THE FUCK DO I HAVE TO DO IT MANUALLY TO GET AN ACCEPTABLE RESULT? I EVEN BUILT MY MARLIN TO TURN HEATING OFF WHEN PROBING GOD FUCKING DAMN IT THIS IS SO FUCKING WHORE GAY ASS RETARDED STUPID. NIGGER. And the result is only acceptable, not withing what i would call perfect or even good.

I printed this iPhone 13 case for my friend using TPU on my KP3S Pro. It's my first time using TPU and it came out pretty well, I think.

>>2574344
Just use a paper bro, works like a charm

I have a PLA roll that just refuses to stick to bed, I guess it's fucked with humidity after being in the open for like a year+, should I just throw it away? Tried dehydrating in the oven with only small improvement

>>2574261
>>2574274
>>2574344
>she bought Creality
I got told to stop being "negative" when I suggested people not buy Creality's overpriced garbage but most of the issues in these threads come from them.

>>2574322
>How tight should they really be? Does anybody know?
Not too tight, not too loose

>>2574365
What's the alternative? Prusa costs double and isn't even available everywhere.

>>2574367
I have a Prusa Mini and I'm never buying anything from them again other than filament. The printer works fine but it was like $400 + another $100 for shipping and I got hit with a customs fee. I also had to change the shitty extruder to a Bondtech one because it kept jamming. I suggest the KP3S (Normal or Pro version) or SV06. The KP3S is like $170 and is basically the same thing as a Prusa mini but has a direct drive extruder. It has an external PSU like the Prusa Mini but you can just print an attachment to keep it on the side of the printer. The Pro version has an internal PSU, one more inch of build volume and a filament sensor which I think is useless since I printed a filament holder to screw onto the top and give the filament a smoother path into the extruder. The SV06 is a Prusa clone for like $270 on Amazon and prints just as well. It can print as fast as a Bambu Lab P1P if you are using a Klipper profile without having to be locked into Bambu's Jewish proprietary ecosystem. The only issue is that they cheaped out on lubing the machine so you will have to take it apart and lube it yourself which is very easy since there's a youtube video with step by step directions.

I guess a shaky table can't be good for printing?

>>2574325
That's just what I needed, thanks.

>>2574375
Vrry bad.
Even some simple printed reinforcements for a shaky table can make a distinct difference in print quality.

Printed this iceberg with .28 layer heigh and the speed setting on Prusaslicer on my Ender 3 Neo. How do I minimise these wack lines that don't seem to follow a pattern or is this just a side effect of the speed + big layer height?

Also any tips to combat corners curlingup? other than a brim I guess?

>>2574362
Thats literally what i did you shit monger. Move to coordinate, place paper, dail z down untill it just grips, repeat 35 times. This despite having a probe that can measure within 50 microns of accuarcy. This is a fucking joke.

>>2574420
bro just go by the feel. you need to lower it enough so it scratches the paper but does not grip. it always comes perfect after you got it

Anyone else with a Bambu printer really fucking hate the nozzle switching process? I swear I'm going to fuck up these little connectors and need a whole new toolhead board or need to solder new surface mount connectors after ~2 changes.

Should I try my luck with a 3rd party hotend like https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Hotend-Heatbreak-Compatible-X1/dp/B0BMZZD5QK/ that lets you use traditional nozzles or try cutting the fan/thermistor/heater cartridge cables and putting an easier plug type inline so I don't need needle nose pliers / hemostats to get at the normal connections but need to find a place to stick the connectors and hopefully not have the heater cartridge cables melt shit.

>>2570325
I was looking at resin 3d printers to make minitures. I was thinking about getting the Elegoo saturn 2, but I dont know much about resin 3d printers. What all do you need for these? I see you need a IPA washing station and a UV curing light, but is there more you need? anyone know about resin 3d printing?

>>2574503
You need a well ventilated area. Resin is carcinogenic

I guess prints this small and detailed is way above my capabilities. Cleaning supports were a lot harder than I thought (I probably shouldn't try to support sword), I broke the sword as well. Guess the model was just too small

>>2574350
nicely done
i like the idea of phones just coming with a rubber outer case like how multimeters do
gonna make a phone back-shell with magnets and pads for charging via pogo pins one of these days

>>2574513
You should be able to use Tree Supports in Cura, or you could just try a different slicer.
A smaller nozzle for smaller prints might work better unless you're already doing ~0.2mm.
Changing the orientation could help. Laying it on its back and using normal supports could work since I'd image the back is mostly flat surfaces, cleaning up supports should be easier and flat surfaces are easier to file/sand.
Or get some super glue gel with a nice applicator and print it in multiple parts with more optimal orientation per piece you then glue together. If one doesn't come out as nice, just print that one part and try again.
Unless scale is super important, you could try just making it bigger.

Miniatures are definitely dominated by resin printing, but with some effort you could get pretty good FDM printed miniatures.

Well goddamn.

Ender 3 v2 with CR Touch and mriscoc firmware. PolyMaker PLA Pro. Thing was printing just fine, but now I cant even get past the first layer with shit like this. I redid the bed tramming, bed leveling, and Z offset and still no luck. Did my filament finally get too humid? I also cleaned the bed and made sure it was clean.

>>2574499
Fine, I'll edit the 20 or so points needed to make the bed perfect. If probes were this utterly useless with ABL why did people ever starting to buy them? I feel cheated.

>>2574344
>I EVEN BUILT MY MARLIN TO TURN HEATING OFF WHEN PROBING

If you are talking abou bed heating, his could be why,

you're printing on a heated bed that has warps, which means warps on the bed will be closer closer or farther away from the nozzle, which makes a difference.

Then you probe when its cooled meaning the spots of the bed that were warped aren't warped anymore, and reading is different now.

Who told you to probe while its cooled? Judging by your pics you have a bltouch that uses a mechanical switch, correct?

>>2574546
Just 4 points bro, go around the corner twice and works perfect every time. You just need to believe in paper bro.

>>2574553
Could also just use the marlin bed tramming feature.
IDK how standard it is but I got some firmware off of reddit for my ender 3 with a sprite extruder and that feature was on it

I thought I had a truly warped bed but after tramming with a CR touch and leveling afterwards my z axis hardly moves.

>>2574527
looks like your too far from the bed with your nozzle. you can test the filament by bending it and if it snaps, its too moist.

>>2571540
I'm so triggered even fake guns are banned in this cucked country of mine

>>2574594
Which one?

>>2574594
Same here in Sweden, technically a small crossbow that launches rubberbands would constitute a weapon that gets you 4 years in prison. I just want a cool prop revolver that I can spin the barrel on like a cowboy for fucks sake.

>>2574405
did you shim the z axis lead screw motor yet? i had the same problem on my machine until i printed one out and installed it

>>2574261
十 (10) 个 prussia coins™ 已存入您的帐户!

>>2574643
Imagine buying Creality or Prusa lmao

>>2574566
>I thought I had a truly warped bed but after tramming
if you have a laptop, or a computer,
and your printer has some sort of USB access, you can visualize the data over USB.
you connect the printer to the computer, with something like a microusb cable. then use a program like pronterface, and you can display the mesh data as actual values and coordinates, using M420 (marlin, look it up)
then plug those into some sort of visualizer, there are loads of them online, and see just how actually warped your bed may or may not be in real life.

>>2574566
>I thought
Do you not own a straight edge?

>>2574650
I've done that before and it's shown like a bow upwards and it reflects my experience of using paper on the 4 corners only for the center to scrape the nozzle.
Haven't hooked up my printer since to a PC as octoprint was very unreliable.

>>2574692
I do, just never bothered to put it on the bed since I had pic related to tell me

Is the da Vinci Pro 3-in-1 a good printer for a dedicated ABS printer? I'm considering buying a like new one for a few hundred dollars. Seems like a pretty cool printer, even if it is a bit older. The build-in 3D scanning module is certainly interesting. One thing I don't like about it is the stupid proprietary hotend, but it looks like it's not too hard to upgrade it to a V6. Do any of you guys have experience with this printer? Is it worth buying for $300 or is there a better choice in the same price range (<$400)?

>>2574710
Isnt that the one that had DRMed filament?

are there any feasible ways to utilize waste filament and waste prints?
i don't think grinding and re-extruding is reasonable on the consumer level. you "can" melt them down into a coffee coaster or whatever, but how many coasters do you need?

i was thinking maybe melt casting waste material into somewhat useful shapes. like, maybe making silicone molds of project boxes and pouring molten filament into simple shapes that can be bolted together into something you could put a raspberry pi into, or whatever.

>>2574732
you know, even typing that out sounds kind of retarded. i'm just going to landfill it.
like, i wouldn't melt down a fucking milk jug into a project box. i'm just going to throw the HDPE away. so why does it feel wasteful when i'm throwing away a benchy, but it doesn't feel wasteful to throw away an empty milk jug.

>>2574710
It's old trash, disregard it.
Garbage.

>>2574733
>it doesn't feel wasteful to throw away an empty milk jug.
It should

>>2574724
The "pro" version has that bullshit disabled, so you can use whatever filament you want.

>>2574736
Even for $300? I can't think of an enclosed printer for $300 that can print ABS. Not including an Ender 3 inside of a cardboard box obviously. I just want something easy.

>>2574732
I've been experimenting with melting it down into smaller "rods" that I can put in a dremel/rotary tool thingy and use it for friction welding smaller pieces of larger prints. I've only tried it a few times but it works decently well.

>>2574550
Yeah I'm talking about bed heating but you're in your assumptions of how this works. #define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF will have the printer heat the bed to the target temperature, it will keep heaters on while the print head is moving from position to position, turn them off briefly during the probing operation and then turn them back on. The firmware will also wait until the target temperature is reached before doing the next probing. I found this gave me much, much better accuracy, the downside is that the probing takes longer. It's actually a good feature. My BL-Touch is mounted on a non moving mount. The weird thing is that manual probing gave vastly different results compared to the automatic probing and i really cannot figure out why. Still need to fine tune this mesh a bit more but it's very tedious and time consuming work..

>>2574365
Yes, I will never again buy a creality. their smaller printers might be a bit less problematic but with a 370x377mm bed warping is a huge issue. I'm saving up for another printer. A nice one.


Thank you for the moral support anons, it means a lot to a man on the verge of throwing the printer out your window. Wich would be very bad because with my luck it would hit some poor geezer in the head then bounce and smash the windscreen of an ultra rare classic Ferrari that just happened to drive past in that exact moment.

>>2570325
My printer seems to scrape the infill (judging by the loud scraping sound it does while printing the infill) of the bigger,higher prints,yet the infill is not damaged at all. I have stopped several prints to check the infill lines and they were pristine,not one scratch.
The printer is FLsun v400,first delta printer,didn't have the issue with my Enders before.

Picrel print,loud scraping sound after hour 2 of printing (18hrs overall)

>>2574784
>i really cannot figure out why.
because the physical location of the probe is not coplanar with the nozzle on two axes.
so, if there's some tilt on the printhead, as it moves left to right the total rotation of the probe is greater than the rotation of the nozzle.
"x axis twist"

>>2574787
How can i measure this? Is it hard to fix?

>>2574794
yeah i mean youd need to either compile your own marlin or find one that does have compensation in it, or klipper.
you could use like, a plumb line to see if the nozzle is normal to the print surface or not, and then compare the probe.
if that's even the problem there's software or hardware solutions, but a manual mesh bypasses it.

Have anyone seen anyone printing a new fan shroud / cover plats for their GPUs? Almost all aftermarket GPUs looks like shit

I can't manage to print this PETG normally. Every large surface looks like shit. What could be the problem? With smaller parts it not this bad.

>>2574810 For cosmetic purposes should not be hard, just measure, model, print, rinse and repeat until it fit.
But it will be tricky to adapt generic fans to gpu. Weird connectors, speed curves, etc.

>>2570325
Any openschads here? I have a weird request.

h1 = 5;
rbase = 3;
rtop =5;
separation = 0.5;
difference(){
cylinder(h=h1, r1= rbase, r2 = rtop,$fn=6);

translate([0,0,separation]){
cylinder(h=h1, r1= rbase, r2 = rtop, $fn=6);
}
}


I'd like to add little step to the inner surface of this cup. It is a cup I will be using to feed stingless bees, and they have a tendency to drown in containers without objects inside. I've just been using sticks so far, but I'd like to innovate, I just have no idea how.

>>2574813
you could probably print new blades if you think the design of them looks retarded, then you could use the same "internals".
i don't know if 3d printed blades work well. maybe ABS and you vapor smooth them?

>>2574816 Even the cheapest chink fan gonna be better than a printed one. But it is okay to remove blade/motor assembly and make a custom shroud.

>>2574813
Yes i was thinking about something exactly like the one in your pic, just for cosmetic purpose. Ill just look at a disassembled card of the model i want to buy and make sure i dont need to take of the heatsink to remove the plastic shroud. The MSI card i my pic only has some screws between the fan blades so it would probably be easy.

>>2574784
Oh I thought the bed was fully cooled, I see now.

Honestly if you live in the Kansas city area I would buy the problematic printer from you whenever you buy a new one.

>long print with long curves
>hours of electronic sounds horror

>>2574744
> I just want something easy.
The davinci line of hateful garbage printers is not what you want.

>>2574580
I fussed with the Z-depth a bit more, and it seems to be printing fine. I'll post the finished print. Thanks!

>>2574641
I didn't, I'd seen people say its not needed on later ender 3's

I'll give it a go

>>2574917
Move printer to another room anon

>>2575018
>it's in a room on the opposite side of the house
>faint whispers of grinding in the background
Creepier

Is there a secret to printing domes or do I just have to have half the print be supports?

is this stuff alright? I have 2 solid meshes that just touches each other. Will slicer fuck it up? Should I interleave them more

>>2574350
How durable is it? Compared to something like a petg phone case?

>>2575062
looks fine to me, guess it works

>>2575070
another question: I want to put self-tap screws into those cylinders. Not very visible in image but they are like tubes the screws will go into

How can I make them robust for that? I guess I need to increase wall line count for those areas? Would 4-5 enough?

>>2574814
Decided to try another approach.

PLA is about 1.2~1.5 specific gravity.
Water is 1 so it sinks, but usually I feed them a mixture of 50% + sugar and water, so I hope it floats.

>full pot keeps the lid on top, bees drink from the border and holes
>as they drink it lowers, denying them access to the liquid and avoiding drowning.
Hopefully this will work for the larger species

>>2574810
I do know there's an entire YT dedicated to printing and benchmarking fans.

>>2575046
If you can hear your printer through a closed door, you have a bigger problem.

>>2575096
Neat. You could also make the inside of the print hollow (with infill) and probably get something that floats well. Ironing may be required on the bottom surface though. Gluing polystyrene and/or weights to the bottom to make it float at a desired height might be nice. A pole down the middle of the container would prevent flipping.

Design-wise, I'd consider making the entrances to the holes conical for a wider area and a shallower step-down into it. More spaces for bees too.

>>2575163
Yeah, I want to upgrade my Mega S but I don't know if it's worth it now or just buy a better one. For what it's worth I don't have a problem with it. It's been very reliable for what I need it for.

if the collage OP doesn't make a new thread i'm going to do another AI one.

>>2575402
You will not you cock-snorting shit puncher, you will wait patiently while I make coffee and shit out a real collage.

New Bread
>>2575491
New Bread
>>2575491
New Bread
>>2575491
>>2575491
>>2575491

>>2570786
aliexpress.com/item/1005003467541429.html
Great little assortments, got one in M2 and M3 some time ago. Most of my little projects I just screw together with these.

>>2574637
Fun little story:
Here in Germany, bow and arrow are legally sports equipment, while a crossbow is a weapon because it stores energy and releases it in two separate motions.
Crossbows are still legal to own without any kind of license, but that legal differentiation means you can legally carry a bow anywhere you please, while you couldn't with a crossbow.

>>2572594
I stopped having any issues like this once I went for ABL.