/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Under 50% of the target weight? At least the print finished this time...

The extra nozzle that came with my stock ender 3 wasn't of a smaller size, right?

Tidied up my kp3s, remixed panels so I can mount a orange pi zero 2, and buck converter inside.
1/3

>>2540106
2/3

>>2540107
3/3

Have any of you guys tried a Diamondback nozzle? Supposedly you can print anything with it and it'll never wear out.

>>2540125
Pointless. Even a regular tool steel nozzle will never wear out outside a production setting.

>it's a "Creality can't write proper instructions and have so many versions of shit that you can't even find proper guides from the community outside of 20 minute long youtube videos by severely autistic nerds" episode

>>2540127
Depends, glow in the dark filament is extremely abrasive. I don't know how high it is on the moss scale, but it's probably higher than hardened steel.

i have been debating changing my heatbreak for all meta one if have ptfe one now but i just can't justify it
i extremely rarely need to print other shit than pla and when i do usually pla can still do the job
plus all the other plastic are much shittier to print AND often to store than pla that can just sit on my shelf forever
not to mention all metals don't slide the filament as well as ptfe causing jams more often

>>2540183
good talk

Anyone tried the knock off CHTs yet?
You can get them for a few bucks

>>2540292
you are supposed to talk me into it you useless fags

Any cool robotic base models you guys know?
I got one of the little acrylic ones and did all the sensors and control methods and now i want something cooler/faster that i can print

>>2540346
you should buy a 2nd printer to go on that all metal hot end. no reason to fuck up your current setup that is working.

>>2540344
Yes, I'm using a 0.6mm one now. I've tried the 0.6mm and 0.4mm ones and both work fine. Honestly I can't tell if it flows more, since I never actually pushed regular nozzles to the point where the extruder skips, but after I installed the clone CHTs I set volumentric flow in the slicer to 22mm^3 and never looked back.

CNCKitchen's video on them will be more helpful if you want to try and push the limits.

>>2540367
What printer do you have anon?
I am just looking for ways to speed up my ender 3

>>2540369
Ender 3 with Biqu H2 extruder. If you have the stock hotend make sure you get a MK8 nozzle rather than a "Reprap" or e3d nozzle.

what do you guys usually print? I've done a ton of projects at school with their printers but I'm having a hard time justifying getting a printer of my own. could get a Ender 3 for <200€ and thinking if I should go for it

>>2540414
wedges door stops lightswitch cover shower head adapter keychains xactoknife holder figures animals boardgame pieces board game organization card boxes card holders paper punches decorative pieces brackets mounts shifter knob button replacements dice boxes dice towers dnd props headphone holder controller mount toy accessories halloween decorations christmas decorations small fixes remote holders life counters sunglasses repair keyboard keys pen cup office organizer drawer organizers another printer

I decided to add a color touchscreen to one of my printers; my large-format printer has one and I really enjoy it.
Really disappointed to not see people DIYing this, just tons of unimpressive $30+ shit from Amazon.
So I designed a really simple adapter to easily use some common chinkanese touchscreen modules and rotary encoders.
It's set up for cheap shit ILI9341 based TFTs with SPI, like these: MSP2402 MSP2807 MSP3218
There are provisions to attach a KY040 rotary encoder as well, having both is genuinely fucking nice.
You can grab a 3.2" and a KY040 encoder on Amazon for about $20, even less on Aliexpress, and of course the smaller 2.8" and 2.4" options are even cheaper.
Marlin has support for generic LCDs like this, #define TFT_GENERIC #define TFT_DRIVER ILI9341 etc.
No idea about Klipper support, might be fine, but I don't know if Klipper has the ILI9341 implemented.
If you decide to make your own, check the pinout for your EXP1 and EXP2 ports, some manufacturers (MKS) do stupid shit like rotate them or reverse the even/odd pins.
There is a port for connecting a piezo buzzer or a real speaker if you want.
I highly recommend using a small speaker, a teeny little 8ohm 0.25W sounds heaps better than a buzzer, and you can customize the sound in firmware.

>notice gantry sagging on free side after upgrading to heavier direct drive extruder on Ender 3 Pro
>hear dual-z upgrade should help
>nothing aligns right because Creality used the cheapest parts
>Creality also doesn't include mandatory shit like grease, so the screw whines even when aligned properly
>in many cases, the block at the top of the lead screw over-constrains the screw and binds it
>instructions are garbage, as always
This was supposed to be a cheap, quick, easy fix, but now I'm picking up grease and better couplers and undoing the upgrade so I can print some motor supports with single-z without it whining and binding the whole time.
Fuck it. Remember kids: NEVER buy Creality.

is there a simple way to just take a grayscale height map and turn it into a 3D stl? I don't want to map, I've been through blender rendering tutorials but I need an actual stl out of it. I can make an stl a bump map, but not vice versa. There is shit to do this on spheres, there are ways to render it, but I can't find just image -> stl. Isn't there some tool I can just feed it a heightmap and get an stl relief on a plane?

>>2540466
Cura does this natively, PrusaSlicer might now too but I'm not certain.
Or you can use one of the thousands of online services that do it:
https://www.google.com/search?q=image+to+stl

>>2540467
I installed ideamaker but it doesn't output stl. I don't want some wrapped texture I need an stl file out of it.

>>2540430
thanks for the long response. the controller mount is an intriguing idea I hadn't thought of. maybe I should print some sort of case or protector for my JBL Charge too now that I think of it
>>2540461
is there a better alternative? I could get Anycubic Kobra Go for about the same price as an Ender 3 but I'm leaning towards the Ender since it's such a popular printer it probably has better community support (tips&tricks)

>>2540471
>I'm leaning towards the Ender since it's such a popular printer it probably has better community support (tips&tricks)
AHAHAHA!
You'd think so, but the fucking retards named all of their machines Ender so half the fucking guides you find are for different versions. Like there's an Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, etc, and they all come up when you search for Ender 3.
Plus, the community is shit at help. They never explain anything. They assume you know everything. They'll say, "do x, y, and z" and not mention how to do those things, and when you try to look those things up you'll find the same problem of people not explaining anything 90% of the time, and explaining things presuming you know a lot 9% of the time. Maybe 1% of all explanations on the topic of troubleshooting an Ender 3 actually explain things properly.

It's nightmarish. You basically have to read 5 guides, watch 3 youtube tutorials, and hope that you'll be able to piece out what to do as you go. You have to self-teach most concepts because nobody ever fucking explains them. They just take for granted that you know the jargon and terminology and processes.

If I could go back in time, I would buy a "works out of the box" printer instead of an Ender 3 Pro even though I know more about 3D printing now that I've had to fix my shit so often, compared to if I'd bought a good printer out of the box.

>>2540468
Ideamaker is garbage, uninstall it.
Cura does this natively, PrusaSlicer might now too but I'm not certain.
Or you can use one of the thousands of online services that do it:
https://www.google.com/search?q=image+to+stl

>>2540473
>pls do my homework for me

>>2540473
>They just take for granted that you know the jargon and terminology and processes.
well I do know all that from just printing with and maintaining a Prusa MK3S+. the Ender 3 looks just like it so I can't imagine it being much harder to set up and operate when I know how a printer like that works and what it should do. and yeah I'm not expecting a 200€ printer to do as well as a 1000€ printer, fucking around with its settings should be fun.
thank you for your input, I appreciate it. I'm still looking for opinions on other <300€ printers and I'm probably gonna get the Ender because it seems like all the other ones aren't even worth mentioning.

>>2540487
If you have any printer experience already, don't fear cheap printers.
Very few expensive printers are worth their price, the Prusa is probably the worst offender delivering shit-tier value for money.
It's not difficult, challenging, or confusing so long as you can 1) read English and 2) don't cry when you have to read.

>>2540473
This may come as a shock to you, but the Ender 3 is about as close to a "it just werks" printer out of the box. Seriously, all printers have issues, and noobs need to teach themselves a fair bit before it becomes effortless.

>>2540491
yeah I've mostly used the 1000€ Prusa on the right. but what's the difference to the 200€ Ender on the left? it looks almost exactly same. although I think the Prusa is an excellent printer and worth the money if frequently used

>>2540487
Ender 3 Pro is still $100 at Microcenter, the Anycubic Kobra Neo is $200 on Amazon, and the Sunlu S8 is still $170.
If you're euro then it's going to vary a shitload from country to country, but you should be able to find the Ender 3 Pro or Anycubic Kobra Neo for <€250, the Ender 3 V2 for <€300, and I've seen the cheaper Anycubic Kobra Go for <€200.

>>2540502
what's the difference between an Ender 3 and an Ender 3 Pro? besides the price difference?

>>2540501
One is a design over a decade old, made with a lot of plastic components, with zip-ties holding the bearings in place, and an ancient 8-bit control board, and the other is an Ender-3!

The performance of the Prusa i3 versus an Ender 3 can't be boiled down to one factor. The Prusa is priced almost 400% higher than the Ender 3.
They're exceedingly different printers, using different parts and of different quality, they use substantially different extruders, and tons of small quality-of-life differences.
All-metal direct-drive hotend with real E3D V6 and real BMG gears, compared to the Creality bowden extruder known to be a useless plastic POS attached to the Creality hotend, which is PTFE lined and has an inadequate heatbreak.
The Prusa also includes silent steppers, sensorless homing, mesh bed leveling with included probe, IR filament runout sensor, and can account for imperfections in the frame by compensating for skew on the X & Y axis.

Prusa fanboys try very hard to justify why they paid 3x-4x the price to have a printer based off a 15 year old design with a 10 year old 8-bit mainboard, an inaccurate probe, and printed parts.
They really get mad when you point out that they only recently switched from using zip-ties for the bearings to actual bearing mounts.
No, not real bearing blocks which have been around for decades and cost pennies, custom cheap steel mounts to replace the zip-ties they used previously.

Prusa printers are perfectly good, but still terribly overpriced for what they are. The price was justifiable 8 years ago, but it isn't anymore.
They now compete with printers like the Bambulabs X1, which SHITS ALL OVER the Prusa for $100 less.

>>2540506
open up here comes the aeroplain
https://all3dp.com/1/creality-ender-3-pro-v2-max-s1-s1-pro-comparison/

>>2540511
If the prusa is so shit, then why does it just work?

>>2540528
It doesn't, not any more or less than an Ender 3.
Requires an identical amount of effort to use.

Also, what about that description made you think the Prusa is shit? It's overpriced, that doesn't make it shit.
I was literally praising the Prusa for its strongest selling points.

>>2540528
Can't tell if troll or Prusa fan, the two are indiscernible.

>>2540529
Well mine did. 9kg of filament through it after assembly, it has always just worked.
Also what's wrong with zipties if they just work?

>>2540538
>Actual Prusafag
kys

I can't get my printer to print now, it does the preprint shit like warming up, and then it gets to the time to print and it just sits there and I see the progress bar go throuhg but it doesn't move or extrude. Has that happened to anyone else?

>>2540172
Was that from glow in the dark PLA or something else?

>>2540541
Could be lots of things.
Start by trying a different SD/MicroSD card, slice your model again, do NOT keep/copy the gcode.
Slice it fresh, put it on a different card, try it.
What you're describing is very common with problems related to SD cards, especially the cheapy MicroSD cards often included with printers.
Could be other things, but it's most likely the gcode file itself, or the card, especially if it's just started out of the blue like this.

>>2540543
giving that a try now, its been a few different files so have a better sd card that wasn't given with the printer

>>2540544
I've run into similar problems when I have too many files on a MicroSD card, even though that shouldn't be a problem. Again, only with cheapos, never had a problem with real name-brand shit.

>>2540183
If you get a decent heat break then the inside of it will be polished smooth. I haven't had any problems with my e3D V6 clone with upgraded "titanium" heat break ever. Well the only problem I had was because I didn't tighten it properly. Other than that, it's been great. Check out Gulfcoast Robotics V6 clone, that's what I got and it worked great. I think the heat break was just some random chitanium one.

>>2540527
the comparison table at the end is very useful, thanks. I think I will buy the Ender 3
>>2540532
>>2540540
what's wrong with Prusa? it's always done me good.

>>2540547
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvlMeTnjriQ
Everything in this video about nozzles applies to heatbreaks too, it applies to everything in your filament path.

Clones are fuckin' sweet, but for parts that really matter just dig in and find what's known to be quality, whether there's a cheap option or not.
Slice Copperhead heatbreaks are top-tier, god damn I've been happy with them, and they run about $30 for whatever hotend you've already got, bunch of variants.
I haven't seen a clone that wasn't delicate and trashy, but they might be out there, hopefully someone else can chime in with their own cheap bi-metallic experience.

>>2540548
>what's wrong with Prusa? it's always done me good.
Good printers, high prices, Apple-like cult community of fanboys encouraged by Josef.
I like the printers, the prices are a joke but meh, mostly I hate the retarded "Prusa > All" community.

>>2540546
>>2540543
new sd card didn't work, am going to try a fresh slicer install and see if htat does anything

>>2540552
Oof, well it definitely sounds like either a gcode or sdcard issue if the progress bar fills without any movement. Might reformat one or both of those SD cards and start with that and your fresh slicer install.

gl;hf

>>2540482
Oh look, a stupid fucking cuck making excuse for someone being too lazy and stupid to explain things clearly.

This analogy made you all shit your pants last time this came up: Imagine asking a kid to go to the store and buy you a table. Kid asks how they're supposed to do that so you tell them to just drive to the store and get a table.

You don't tell them how to drive, despite them not knowing.
You don't tell them which store.
You don't tell them what table.
You don't tell them how much money they'll need.
etc etc.

There's a HUGE fucking difference between "please spoonfeed me detailed instructions" and "DO THE BARE FUCKING MINIMUM TO EXPLAIN YOURSELF INSTEAD OF JUST SPOUTING NONSENSE THAT ONLY MAKES SENSE TO YOU."

>>2540487
You're probably fine then. The problem is mostly newbies get into 3D printing with the cheap Creality garbage and have to sink or swim right off the bat.
I will tell you this: If you buy a Creality printer, within 6 months you WILL encounter new problems you never even heard of with other brands. Those dumb fucks have a gift for finding unique ways for their machines to shit the bed.

Maybe you've never had to worry about a cable being placed perfectly to fuck with your bed level during printing by dragging over a wheel; or experienced a critical component being made of cheap plastic that's weakest in the most hidden location on the part, making cracks difficult to spot but lethal to your prints; or seen filament curl under the silicon sock and accumulate on top of the heat block before melting down on all sides of it; or had 50% of all screws you drop while working on the machine get swallowed up into the extruded aluminum frame because the slots all channel debris into the interior, forcing you to disassemble the frame if you ever want to reclaim what you dropped.

>>2540496
Those are all things I had to deal with in my third and fourth month alone. The printer was pristine for 2 months, then everything on it started breaking.

>>2540550
>their own cheap bi-metallic experience
Got one when I broke the steel heatbreak on my Titan Aero.
I just works. All I can say, really, as it doesn't seem to perform any different from the steel one. Titan Aero is a bit shit when it comes to keeping the cold side cool but the bimetal didn't help much with that. Anyways, I use it in a high flow setup with a Volcano block so heat creep isn't much of an issue despite everything.

>>2540567
>within 6 months you WILL encounter new problems you never even heard of with other brands
Depends on what you mean by other brands. If you think other manufacturers of chinkshit don't cut corners then you need a reality check.
Creality is the top of the shitheap. You're still buying shit but at least it's some high grade shit that will work for a while.
t. fell for the Voxelab Aquila hype, that shit gave me more grief in a week than my ender did in an entire year

If you mean actual printer manufacturers that don't employ child labor and make nozzles out of pot metal then you're comparing a 200$ machine to stuff that's at minimum 3-4x as much. Your expectations are a bit too high.

>>2540567
This nigga bad at Google, breaks his printer, loses screws, has poor bed adhesion, and blames the chinks for all of it.

My 4 year old Ender 3 and 9 year old 113860 are both still going strong >100Kgs through each and no unexplained or random "breaking," just normal maintenance and upgrades here and there because a lot improves in 9 years (just don't tell Prusa).

>>2540567
so you're a kid in this scenario?

Need I remind you that if I need you to do something for me, it's my responsibility to oversee you do it well? You're responsible for your prints, so fuck you

>>2540496
>Ender 3
>it just werks
Bitch, please. It's a really good kit for the cost, but you're completely wrong.

>>2540584
With that logic, you're the underage one here.
What the fuck do think I'm doing by explaining that most of you suck at explaining things if not taking some responsibility for your improvement?

If it would take you 10 fucking seconds to include a sentence filling in crucial details but would take your read a fucking hour to find the right mix of sources to figure it out themselves, you are a piece of shit if you don't spend that 10 seconds elaborating. Period.

>>2540642
>What the fuck do think I'm doing by explaining that most of you suck at explaining things if not taking some responsibility for your improvement?
Oh, the irony! It's funny how everyone else here was able to figure out what they needed from these terrible explanations...

>>2540648
God damn, child.
A) That's not what "irony" means.
B) You can't claim that "everyone else here" was able to figure out what they needed from the explanations I'm referring to because you don't know which explanations precisely AND half of you claim that using one explanation as a breadcrumb to more explanations and figuring it out on your own is somehow the best approach despite being intolerably stupid and inefficient. Which is it? Are these explanations sufficient or is it mandatory that people have to go search out 5-10 resources and waste an extra hour or two of their time because if they want clear, concise explanations they're just stupid babies that want to be spoonfed?

Please explain to me how expecting you to be able to communicate like an adult is somehow ME demanding to be coddled rather than your stubborn refusal to communicate clearly being an example of YOU demanding to be coddled while you communicate at a 3rd grade level.

>>2540605
Name a printer that just werks out of the box. Don't say Prusa because that's bullshit. Ender 3 is about as close as it gets, because it's a simple, relatively refined design.

>>2540706
We all figured it out, improve yourself instead.

>>2540550
Well I just bought a couple of heatbreaks from Trianglelab the other day. One chitanium one and one bi-metallic. I'll report back after I get them. I might be able to see inside with my microscope but other than inspecting them visually, I'm not sure how I could really test it. I suppose I could "feel" inside with some filament. The bi-metallic one was about half the cost of the Slice Copperhead one you mentioned. Hopefully I won't regret buying it...

>>2540706
Not the people you're talking to, but you're clearly way too retarded for 3d printing. Sell your ender and stick with watching anime.

>overtorque mounting screws on CR-Touch
>they crack
>hmm seems like it couldn't be that hard to just model a bottom shell with integrated spacer for the Volcano nozzle I'm using since I found a STEP file for the CR Touch already
>immediately discover that my Fusion 360 skills are too rudimentary to recreate the bottom shell
>mounting tabs crack apart when trying to pry open the case, I'll have to glue the bottom shell onto the top shell
>prototype after prototype doesn't fit, the clearance for the sensor thing is never quite spot on, the tinest bit of overextrusion fucks everything up
>hours later, finally everything fits
>all to save $40

/diy/

Another view

is the voron still the top diy corexy printer or has it been dethroned by something else (not necessarily corexy)?

>>2540362
i don't print often enough to justify second printer and also i don't have space for it i live in a tiny box studio apartment

>>2540550
the problem is the high quality breaks are also very expensive, hard to justify $50 price tag when the chink one costs $5 and is only 20% worser

>>2540767
bambu lab shit on voron, yeah.

>>2540548
>what's wrong with Prusa?
too expensive.
chinks printers can print just as good at 30% of the price

>>2540550
Any sort of brand products like this are no-go unless you are a fat burger. Why?
The product costs $30, shipping is $20, have to fill out tons of paperwork for customs in EU, another $30 total in customs fee at that is now a $80 heat break.
On ali they handle all customs so in can get chink heat break for $5 with free shipping so yeah..
Can you recommend any good heartbreaks from ali?

>>2540711
I can improve myself and tell you to improve yourself at the same time.

>>2540722
>ur so dumb
>im 2 stoopid 2 actually reply but clearly im not the dumb 1!!

>>2540771
>Too expensive
Man I hate poors. Buy a clone then.

>>2540788
show my a decent one sold on ali and i will
also stop pretending you aren't a poor a well you serf

>>2540466
>I've been through blender rendering tutorials but I need an actual stl out of it

You can easily get a STL out of blender, I used blender to customise guitar picks. When I was done I just exported it as a STL

How would one go about levelling the bed using a feeler gauge? As then I could know the exact distance from the bed and setup the slicer accordingly right?

>>2540789
I've heard good reviews on fysetc, will maybe try a mini clone in a few months.

Anons who have a desperate need for pats on the back don't like prusas because they just work without the need for countless hours of DIY and third party addons. Good job little buddies, you got the enders and other chinkshits to work, well done. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.

And fuck jannies, it's not a real gun, I will always evade your bans, I have infinite IP's and infinite computers. Fuck you jannies.

Not a real gun, jannies, it's a toy, stop being niggers, you ban me, I will just evade everytime

>>2540089
listen fucker, put a link to the new thread in the old thread when you make a new thread.

on topic,
have any of you guys done a setup for mounting a sharpie on your toolhead? i think it would be very useful to draw out parts on sheet metal and then i could cut them by hand. the plate's already magnetic so that sounds pretty fuckin sick.

>>2540414
gun

>>2540809
>Anons who have a desperate need for pats on the back don't like prusas because they just work
I have $200 chink printer. I hase worked flawlessly for the bast 3 years printing pla without A SINGLE nozzle clog or problem.
All diy i did was adding clone bltouch for auto leveling.
Get rekt chinese hater.
It's you in fact who is the lame one spending 5 times more on a printer that works exactly the same as chink printer.
You are as bad as people buying supreme tshirts.

>>2540567
>There's a HUGE fucking difference between "please spoonfeed me detailed instructions"
reminds me of that feynman interview about magnets
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MO0r930Sn_8

>>2540814
not personally but I saw a fuckton of people doing it. it's very easy.

>>2540812
>"see officier, it's not a real g..BANG BANG BANG"

>>2540812
Yeah, and fuck your neighbors while we're at it!

>>2540629
>I releveled my bed, but supports are still failing. What could cause them to fail in such a peculiar manner? It's like they're getting squished, but there's nothing for them to get squished, but I don't see how that could be happening, and other supports don't fail.
You need thicker supports to bear more of the peeling forces

>>2540824
>be american

>>2540836
it was new years but stay retarded bro

>[deleted]
kek

>>2540767
Vorons are the most polished and easiest to build due to the design philosophy, good kits, excellent manuals, and large community support. In terms of pure performance they get dunked on but the best you’ll get when building something like a Annex K3 is a BOM, a cad file, and a few autists on discord.

>>2540818
Feynman is a fucking hero of mine, an ultrachad, and one of the main reasons I went into electrical engineering. His book on quantum electrodynamics has a permanent spot in my nightstand drawer.

He (and Einstein, iirc) said that if you could explain a topic to a peer, you could claim to understand it, and that if you could explain it to a child in terms they could understand, you could claim to have mastered it.

Every time I answer a question here I start from the assumption that the other person is a newbie and I find some little gap in my knowledge to fill in every time in the process of giving a thorough answer.

So when I see "experts" or people that claim that "they just went and learned it on their own" who can't explain anything and are going well out of their way to defend strangers on the internet that also can't explain things, I'm reasonably skeptical that they actually know anything at all. They haven't proven it in any way whatsoever!

And that's not even touching on the absurd inefficiency of having thousands of popular users in the hobby who DEFINITELY know their shit and do things all the time that prove that they know the fundamentals flawlessly, yet they don't ever explain anything from first principles. They pump out 10-minute YT videos that lead you down a 2-hour rabbit hole that may not even tell you what you wanted to know in the first place.

They could save a LOT of people hours of suffering if they just spent a little bit of time conveying what they know in more accessible and rational ways.

pray

>>2540767
for poorfags, yeah. p1p is better.

>>2540768
1. print more

>>2540900
It's all good to have heroes and gods, but you should know that since we can't actually BE where you are, what you see in your screen is what we can offer you.

You may see insufficiency in the effort and/or lack of expertise. But you didn't see behind the scenes. You can't. You don't know what it took to bring that information to you. You payed your courtesy (maybe), and now you demand we pay you twice over for offending your sensibilities.

Cover everyone's costs for teaching you first, then you can bother them about how good they teach.

>>2540911
I can't agree with that because you're not even "paying" one time if your advice isn't intelligible to the recipient. It's no different to them than mashing your face on the keyboard.

The simple solution if you don't know any better is to disclose the gaps in your knowledge when you share it rather than try to hide them and get defensive and hostile when someone asks for further clarification.

It's absolutely retarded how many people work themselves into a frothing rage over someone asking for more information or saying that they didn't understand a topic. I can't imagine the stupid monkey brain that thinks, "everyone should just shut up and brute force every new topic they learn rather than let the community discuss how to improve knowledge transfer."

You see it everywhere, though. When I was in college a first-time professor asked for feedback and I gave it and one dipshit held a grudge against me for the rest of our time there because he believed with 110% of his idiot soul that the role of the student was to passively sit there and shoulder 100% of the weight of learning and never criticize or offer constructive feedback to those that try to teach, no matter how bad they are or even if they're malicious!

We had a TA in another course that sabotaged some student's grades because they didn't respond well to his flirting and this piece of shit student that didn't believe in speaking out was fucking pissed that anyone would dare criticize the TA for sabotaging grades.

It's like some kind of subservient, right wing peasant mindset. Maybe they were raised by parents that hit them when they asked questions or something.

>>2540713
If it's from Trianglelabs, at least it probably won't be garbage. High quality, not necessarily, but it's really unlikely it'll be total garbage.
They're good at not selling complete trash.

>>2540727
Beautiful

>>2540913
if you think the information available can be summarized as "head-rollingly dumb" then you're just a brainlet. Study takes time, dum dum

>>2540913
I think you're bad at Google.
Seriously, 3D printers have been home-gamer bullshit for over 10 years now, there are hundreds of books, thousands of videos, whole university courses you can take, but you feel the resources you have access to are inadequate and lacking.
You see gaps in tutorials and cry, when those gaps are in your knowledge and it's up to you to fill them.

>Waaah, why does this tutorial just assume I know what a screwdriver is?
>Waaaah, why does this tutorial just assume I know what a screw is?
>Waaaaah, why does this tutorial just assume I can add 2 + 2?

A tutorial isn't an extensive compendium on a single subject that teaches you every detail.
You're just a shit learner, if you actually went to uni then you were pitied for you small-mindedness.

>>2540919
Go ahead and justify making someone spend 3-6 hours skimming articles and youtube videos that aren't useful for them for the tidbits of information they need rather than just being clear in the first place. Go on.
You could type 1 sentence to explain a specific prerequisite idea but instead your dumb, lazy ass expects everyone in the audience to go put in the same time and effort you maybe did? If we ran society on such an idiotic principle we'd still be in the stone age. Imagine not having universities or schools because some ignorant dumbfuck declared, "I spent hours tracking down this information so I don't have to explain it well! Everyone else should also spend hours tracking it down!"

>>2540924
>there are hundreds of books, thousands of videos, whole university courses you can take
Exactly. And many people know exactly where in that body of knowledge to find answers to questions but don't tell newbies where they are or how to find them!

>You see gaps in tutorials and cry, when those gaps are in your knowledge and it's up to you to fill them.
With WHAT? Tutorials? With the gaps in them? Did you even think this through?

>>Waaaaah, why does this tutorial just assume I can add 2 + 2?
Thank you for proving that you are actually functionally retarded. You should know that we're discussing much more complex topics than basic tools and math but you're either a dishonest piece of shit that's deliberately strawmanning me, or you're so unforgivably stupid that you think knowing how an extruder assembly goes together is just as basic as knowing what 2+2 is. Explain that. Right now. Type me a response explaining to me how the various components of a 3D printer and topics like servicing a clogged heat block are just as simple as 2+2.

>A tutorial isn't an extensive compendium on a single subject that teaches you every detail.
Nobody said it was, but you'd be pissed if you opened your cars maintenance manual and didn't find a single engine diagram, right?

>>2540807
feeler gauge is the same as paper, you want a light slip between nozzle tip and bed.

>>2540811
>this doofus has a huge seam going right thru the handle
maybe they ban you for being a shit at /diy/?

>>2540935
I hate printing with supports.

>>2540933
Ender 3 is an easy example.
It's opensource, so you have access to the entire design.
Literally anyone can just go look right now at a detailed 3D model of every component of their Ender 3.
https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3
A lot better than any single diagram.
That URL is in the manual that came with your Ender 3 that I'm 100% sure you never looked at.

Do the step-by-step videos made for children not hold your hand enough?
It's hard to see what you're upset about.

>>2540933
Where's the gap?
That is, what's the information that's missing?
Can you cite an example?
I've never read a 3D printing related guide or tutorial and been left wanting, maybe you're trying to run before you can walk.

>>2540924
>A tutorial isn't an extensive compendium on a single subject that teaches you every detail.
This is another bullshit strawman, btw. Nobody is asking every tutorial to be a complete compendium. Just that significant or complex ideas, parts, or procedures not be omitted or glossed over.
There are tutorials out there on changing your nozzle that don't mention temperature or securing the heat block! They don't tell you to secure the block to prevent it from twisting and they don't tell you that you often need to heat it up to get the old nozzle out, or that you need to heat it up and tighten the nozzle a little bit more to account for expansion.

You cannot defend that. I just typed ONE SENTENCE that could save a newbie from destroying their heat block and save them hours of time wasted fighting with a cold nozzle or trying to print with a nozzle that clogs because it was never tightened while hot.

By your logic, expecting people making tutorials to include SINGLE SENTENCES like that is the same as demanding every tutorial be an encyclopedia. Do you see how fucking stupid your comment was now?

>You're just a shit learner, if you actually went to uni then you were pitied for you small-mindedness.
I know so much about learning because I organized the biggest self-teaching and group study organization on campus in response to the absolute shit quality of instruction in most departments. I was offered a full ride for my Master's and PhD because the university was desperate to keep the org alive. To them, it was a free and significant boost to student performance. It made them look great but cost them nothing because it was entirely student-run.

>>2540907
>256*256*256 mm3
>under $800
it's got a way smaller build area, way cheaper, and not DIY at all.
>for poorfags
more like... stingy with your time fags

>>2540924
>I think you're bad at Google.
you will love industrial machines, they basically mark up the cost of the machine and you pay for a tech to visit from the distributor and understand your process, understand your goals, and they'll help you every step of the way.
of course, you'd be paying a $5,000/yr subscription fee for the slicing software...

>>2540944
So is the complaint that there are so many bad resources out there in addition to the good ones?
Genuinely asking.
I mean, I wouldn't follow a shitty tutorial that didn't cover the details I needed.
Not understanding what you're upset about.
Over the last decade I've had no problem finding any and all information related to these machines that I needed.

Your uni story is cute, tell us about when they all stood up and clapped for you.

>>2540941
You have got to be trolling.
You're now shifting to the claim that newbies should be able to read and understand mechanical and electrical diagrams and the code that runs it and deduce how everything works? Utter incompetence on your part.
Besides, that link is not in the manual. I keep the box and documents that came with my printer and it came with a customer service/warranty document and a little assembly document that only points you to Creality's website, not to the github repository.

>Do the step-by-step videos made for children not hold your hand enough?
>It's hard to see what you're upset about.
Probably because you have an IQ lower than room temperature. I explained in detail how stupid it is to conflate what I'm talking about with handholding. If you don't get it at this point, you're mentally handicapped. More likely, you're just fucking autistic and can't admit when you're wrong.

>>2540943
See: >>2540943
A perfect example is Creality's own documentation. If you go read any of the reviews for products like the CRT you find tons of complaints that they don't explain firmware very well, and many youtube videos on the product mention that Creality's provided firmware doesn't even work in some cases. You cannot claim that you used these documents and were not left wanting because even people that make a living making 3D printing videos and have 10 of them in their shop are uploading videos about how the documentation was shit and they had to contact the company directly for help.

Examples abound and it's staggering that you would even claim to have never encountered it. An adjacent example would be the sheer number of 3D prints online that require things like 4x12 metric bolts and 4M t-nuts/hammerheads but don't bother to include a picture including them or mention in the description that you need these things to assemble the print. You just have to stock up on components and trial-and-error it because the original uploader was lazy or stupid.

>>2540949
>So is the complaint that there are so many bad resources out there in addition to the good ones?
More or less.

>I mean, I wouldn't follow a shitty tutorial that didn't cover the details I needed.
Exactly. I'm saying it's stupid that you have to hop from tutorial to tutorial to tutorial all on the same topic because perhaps 4 out of 5 of them omit crucial information that would take little effort to provide.

This is worsened by the fact that because you don't know what you don't know, you can't even fully assess a tutorial until you solve your problem in some way. You could think a tutorial was amazing, follow it to the letter, have your nozzle drive into your glass bed and crack it, and only after an additional several hours of troubleshooting realize that the tutorial you thought was amazing actually skipped something very important.

It seems to me like some of you in this thread would blame the newbie despite them having no way of knowing the tutorial was bad, rather than blame the tutorial author for not disclosing a significant risk or adding a warning.

>Over the last decade I've had no problem finding any and all information related to these machines that I needed.
The question is efficiency.
Did you do so without wasting hours trying to figure one tiny thing out that could have been explained in a sentence or two elsewhere?
Did you ever spend an hour or two implementing a solution only to find it didn't work for you?
Did you ever break anything because you didn't know any better and no one disclosed the risk to you?

These are basic usability concerns and a VAST number of users, especially at 3D printer companies and among 3D printing content creators, understand these topics very well. They also produce a large majority of the tutorials and guides available. All I'm saying is that they often fail to adequately explain these topics and the blame falls on them, not the newbie, when the newbie struggles as a result of their laziness or stupidity.

>>2540949
>>2540957
You are free to say, "It is what it is. I just deal with it." That's your choice.
Just don't say, "No, it's actually fine that these people that make careers out of telling newbies how to do things often fail at the thing they get paid for and it's actually the newbie's fault for being misled in the first place!" or "I put up with that incompetence therefore nobody else can complain!"

And only a legitimately handicapped person would say, "Don't expect the people getting paid to teach you how to solve problems with your 3D printer to actually help you solve problems with your 3D printer or else you're just a whiny baby that wants to be spoonfed!"

holly fuck anon, stop menstruating about this and write a guide about 3dprinting yourself then.

>>2540952
>Examples abound and it's staggering that you would even claim to have never encountered it.
That's just it, I don't think our experience has been similar at all.
When I went to hook up a BL-Touch for the first time, I didn't watch a tutorial or Google how to use it, I just set it up in Marlin and plugged the bitch in because it's a very straightforward and easy process; didn't even touch my startup gcode, I just ticked the "ABL" box in my slicer.
I've never had a printer "suddenly break" either, and not for lack of experience, my oldest printer has north of 30k hours on it.

I also can't imagine printing something and then being surprised to discover it takes hardware.
I always look at models before printing them.

Seriously not getting the anger here.
3D printing is not terribly difficult, the machines are simple as can be, the resources are extensive and have been for awhile, but it's still not consoomer shit.
I've picked up multiple lightly-used printers from Apple users who declared them "impossible."

>>2540943
> maybe you're trying to run before you can walk.

>>2540961
That'd be great, it can go on the pile with the thousands of other good guides (and bad ones).

>>2540957
>These are basic usability concerns and a VAST number of users, especially at 3D printer companies and among 3D printing content creators, understand these topics very well. They also produce a large majority of the tutorials and guides available. All I'm saying is that they often fail to adequately explain these topics and the blame falls on them, not the newbie, when the newbie struggles as a result of their laziness or stupidity.

This clicks.
It's not that there aren't resources available, it's that there is a huge amount of worthless shit to wade through generated by careless people just looking to make money on a popular topic.
It's not a problem I personally deal with, but that is something I can totally understand and have encountered with other topics.
Even in places where one would reasonably expect quality to be curated to some extent, it often isn't, and some of the biggest resources out there are some of the worst offenders because scale and traffic driving for ad revenue is their only actual goal.
(lol@all3dp)
The worst is when a manufacturer fails to provide reasonable information, or even worse provides poor or false information, looking at you ENTIRE AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRY.

>>2540963
>from Apple users

bambu bros, how do I make my tree supports thicker in bambu lab. the trees are a paper thin column and I'd rather burn a little filament than risk them failing but idk what setting this is.

Here's how my morning went. This was mid print on a 40h print. May all your prints resume flawlessly!

>>2540971
Both of my CR-10 clones and my Mars 2 were bought from women under 25 with iPhones, Macbooks, and giant sunglasses; all were perfectly good almost-new printers with no issues (though one had raped their buildtak and the Mars was a sticky mess), none had managed a single successful print.
I still have the Mars 2 and one of the CR-10 clones, both going strong.

>>2540975
>apple
>women
>under 25
dear god do you fish in a barrel with a shotgun too?

>>2540974
Tree support branch diameter, branch distance, wall loops, with infill, all under Support down under Advanced, go play.

>>2540977
Too much effort, I prefer to wait for little blond fish to jump right on the grill for me. The trick is to put the grill near a university campus.

>>2540978
>branch diameter
this is trunk size right?
>branch distance
minimum spacing for terminal branches?
>wall loops
I'm guessing this is what I asked for
>with infill
obvious, but recommended on top of more wall loops?

>>2540961
I'm working on it. I'm new to the hobby but I'm documenting everything I learn. I have yet to delve into the firmware and g-code side of things, and still have a few things to learn about stuff like direct drive extruders and the tripod extruder mount, but once I learn a bit more I plan to build my own rig from scratch to prove to myself that I know enough, then launch my knowledge in either a wiki format or something like HyperPhysics: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/index.html

Go click some of the bubbles on that site and imagine being able to navigate a site on 3D printing with bubbles for extruders with general extruder info and further bubbles for different types of extruders, etc, for all components, formats, styles, filaments, applications, etc.

btw you're a retard for attempting the "man in the arena" defense and implying that no one is allowed to criticize anyone else unless they first do it better.

Rate my first benchy, there was a weird glob of plastic on the starboard bow but I put that down to either a defect in the filament diameter or the kids stamping around the place knocking it. Other than that and the overhanging front looking a little off I think it looks alright
If I look closely I can see the arches and the round window are a little wonky but at a glance you don't notice it

>>2540963
>When I went to hook up a BL-Touch for the first time, I didn't watch a tutorial or Google how to use it, I just set it up in Marlin and plugged the bitch in because it's a very straightforward and easy process; didn't even touch my startup gcode, I just ticked the "ABL" box in my slicer.
If you can't recognize the load of prerequisite knowledge baked into just this sentence, I don't know what to tell you.
Imagine telling a newbie to do this.
They respond with:
>What's Marlin?
>Plugged it in where?
>Should I be worried about startup gcode? Where is that?
>Where is this ABL box in which slicer and how did you know to look for "ABL" or that "ABL corresponded to "BL-Touch" or that it was safe to just toggle the box? How did you know it wouldn't break anything?

>I also can't imagine printing something and then being surprised to discover it takes hardware.
I'm sorry anon, but you are a fucking moron. Knowing that it takes hardware and knowing which hardware it takes are two ENTIRELY DIFFERENT THINGS. Again, the options are you're a fucking idiot that this isn't obvious to you, or that you're a troll that deliberately chose the dumbest interpretation of what I said so you could masturbate over hitting a strawman.

>Seriously not getting the anger here.
Again, it's because you're either an idiot or a troll. I SPOONFED you an example of one sentence being the difference between a newbie damaging their machine or not and you claim you can't understand how anyone could be critical of lazy retards not including that one single sentence in a guide?
And that's just one example. I've carefully delivered like 4 such examples to your mouth and you just keep choking on it like a dumb little bitch. Or you're just pretending to be retarded. idk.

>>2540963
>I've picked up multiple lightly-used printers from Apple users who declared them "impossible."
The thing that should be tipping you off is that you ignore PARAGRAPHS of spoonfed explanations delivered straight to your face to vomit up ANECDOTES that mean absolutely nothing.

You cannot respond to what is being said. You can't answer any of the challenges that have been posed to you and you know you'll look like an even bigger idiot if you try to claim that the other points are wrong, so what does your stupid ass do?

You IGNORE all of that and go, "well I HAVE THESE PERSONAL SUBJECTIVE EXPERIENCES THAT ARE BARELY RELEVANT THEREFORE NOTHING ELSE THAT WAS SAID MATTERS, ALL THAT MATTERS ARE THESE ANECDOTES."

You must be a goddamn Boomer because nobody else pulls shit like that.

>>2541003
>>2541005
I'm sure you'll figure it out eventually, but I'm not seeing a problem worth being upset about.
Trying to run before you can walk and bitching about how hard it is, pretty retarded.
Expecting to smoothly learn things with no prior knowledge and no clear source of information, pretty retarded.
Can't find appropriate learning resources, pretty retarded.
Now you're just spewing shit that's unrelated to your argument, you seriously need to get your anger in check.
I don't believe for a second you've been to university, no chance you can function around humans without keyboards and screens between you.

>>2541018
Keep making excuses, dumbass. Anything to avoid talking about the actual topic.

>I'm not seeing a problem worth being upset about.
Who gives a fuck? Your subjective experience doesn't matter, retard.

>Trying to run before you can walk
Keep spamming this but it makes no sense. Give an example. If you try to claim that certain tasks you need to know in 3D printing shouldn't be pursued until you've got X amount of experience you must prove it, and you must justify how newbies are supposed to know.

>Expecting to smoothly learn things with no prior knowledge and no clear source of information
This is entirely possible and something we should all expect. Again, respond to my example of ONE SENTENCE saving newbies hours of pain. Do, dumbfuck. Let me hear your excuse for why no one is allowed to criticize some retard like you for omitting that sentence when it's going to cause hours of problems for others. Explain to me why we can't demand better from people that get paid to teach. Do not respond to ANYTHING in this comment without addressing this or I'll just call you a retard.

>Can't find appropriate learning resources
They're few and far between. I dare you to link me to some, but be aware that I will go looking for gaps.

>Now you're just spewing shit that's unrelated to your argument
You're projecting. And why should I stay on topic when your idiot ass refuses to answer anything I say? I spoonfeed you like a fucking child PARAGRAPHS of explanations and examples in simple little baby words just for you, and you pretend not to understand them and sit there and piss into your own mouth about "well i just don't see any of these problems myself so they must not exist."
Why should ANYONE ever take you seriously? I know for a fact your personal life is shit because nobody in the real world would put up with someone so fucking pathetically stupid.

>you seriously need to get your anger in check.
If it weren't in check I wouldn't be wasting time talking down you.

>>2541018
>I don't believe for a second you've been to university, no chance you can function around humans without keyboards and screens between you.

This is one final cherry on top of a whole projection pie.
I know for a fact you're describing yourself because I deal with subhumans like you every day as part of my job. I've met countless dumbfuck factory floor workers that think their 10-20 years of floor experience trumps anything an engineer can come up with so they sit there like you just did and blabber on about "well I never saw a problem" or "it worked for me!" and try to block you from fixing or improving a busted process purely because their dumb asses can't comprehend the problem or don't want to adapt and learn.

You are a picture perfect representative of that kind of dumb, sub-60 IQ, mouthbreathing, windowlicking, drooling, pigheaded dipshit. The type of idiot that can't handle change or cognitive dissonance in the slightest.

>>2541005
>ANECDOTES
>PERSONAL SUBJECTIVE EXPERIENCES
>BARELY RELEVANT

lmao-- this fucktard thinks that something literally happening IRL that you directly experience and witness firsthand isn't meaningful.
I remember some Apple fanboy telling me that "Mac's don't freeze; it just doesn't happen." and when I told him that I had personally experienced it when a Mac I was using froze, he said "that's just an anecdote"

In summation, kill yourself you stupid fucking retard.

Jesus Christ, niggas. Calm the fuck down.

>>2541032
Are you so fucking stupid that you don't realize that our situations are reversed in your anecdote, retard?
I'm telling you a problem exists and spoonfeeding you examples and rationale for it and your stupid ass is going "nuh-uh because I don't personally see it!"

This is another post that's on the line between obvious trolling and sheer retardation. If you're a troll, good job at pretending to be retarded well enough that it's doubtful that you're actually pretending.

If you're a retard, good job at figuring out how to structure a sentence just well enough that it seems like you might be trolling rather than a victim of fetal alcohol syndrome.

>>2540911
reasonable take

>>2540933
it would be ludicrous to attempt to curate the totality of knowledge of 3D printing, as minor as it is.
Who is responsible for collecting that information? For verifying it? Who decides what is relevant and what isn't?
What is necessary? What are you even upset about, specifically?

While it's unfortunate there isn't a curated repository that contains exactly what you want to read, written exactly how you want it to be written, the reality is that much of it is released without a thought.
When I give some advice to someone in this thread, I'll give precisely what I want and that's it.
A corollary, if I had a problem with my computer, and someone told me to turn it off and back on again, that would be a waste of my time, but it probably saves a lot of people a lot of time. So if every single video about 3D printing whatever comes with a fucking enormous preamble to bring a novice up to speed, that is a waste. it's a waste of time for anyone who understands, and it's a waste of time for the one providing the information.

you would not expect a textbook on calculus to explain how adding numbers works. that's just a given. and if you do not understand how adding works, perhaps you should seek elsewhere and understand that first. and i think it would be unreasonable to expect a calculus textbook to point you in the direction of another textbook to teach you about everything you may potentially not know.

>>2541043
Oh shit he thinks he's only talking to one person.
Enjoy your factory job or whatever it is you do with your GED and your rage addiction, pathetic nigger.
If learning how to 3D print has been frustrating for you, it's probably because of your learning disability.
The rest of us white folks just don't encounter the kinds of problems you make for yourself with your melanated brain.

>>2540949
>>2540957
>So is the complaint that there are so many bad resources out there in addition to the good ones?

i think this is just an unfortunate part of reality. people who think they know things share information as if they are experts. and people who do actually know things, may intentionally or unintentionally give poor quality information.

a concrete example is the replication crisis in academia. i'm a chemical engineer. i only worked in a lab a short time, but it is unbelievable just how many procedures from actual reputable papers we just could not replicate.
maybe the authors gave truthful information and our experience was just wrong. like, maybe their thermocouple is just calibrated wrong and 50C off from what it ought to be, so we cannot repeat their data.
or, maybe they lied and massaged their data, and don't get 95% yield but actually 55% yield.
their reaction was stirred overnight. is that required or did the workday just end and they went home? maybe they plan to patent their work later, and so they leave out an absolutely critical step. i could tell you the ingredients to make a cake but if i don't tell you to stir them together then you probably won't have a very nice cake.
so whether it's malice, or ignorance, or an expectation of understanding, the information you are presented with may not be the information you are wanting. and i don't know what the solution is but it certainly is unfortunate.

>>2540961

>>2540974
they're meant to be thin. they're printed as vase mode, effectively.

>>2540996
>I have yet to delve into the firmware and g-code side of things
So you haven't even scratched the surface, you are a complete noob to 3D printing still.
These aren't consumer machines, they're not on the shelf at Best Buy for $45.
If you haven't turned a screw, used a multimeter, soldered to a PCB, or played with a microcontroller then jumping into 3D printing with cheap Chinese machines is jumping right into the deep end, it's trying to run before you walk.
If you feel like this hasn't been communicated to you, then you really didn't look into 3D printing before getting started, because this is pretty universally echoed.
You would probably be happier with a more consumer-oriented machine, like a Prusa Mk3, which comes with a full color guide with pictures detailing every aspect of the machine as you assemble it from parts, hands-on tech support, and a massive community of people with similar levels of experience.

>>2541003
you cannot rely on people to be the way you want them to be. you can only change yourself.
and instead of hoping that people do it the way you want them to do it, you would have better results by learning how to learn. learning how to find the information you want is critical, especially when you have a niche topic that isn't as simple as how to install a BL touch.

>>2540996
>thread slowly turns into a shitshow about good/bad ways to explain/understand
>gets called out
>anon is a retard
3D printing?
Criticize all you want anon, I dont fucking care, but atleast get off you high horse and talk like a human.

>Have inital layer adhesion issues
>Decide to lower the initial layer speed
>7x it instead
>It just works
Is something bad going to happen or is this fine?

>>2540817
Good for you. Vast majority of troubleshooting and cryposts about printers fucking up come from chinkshit printniggers however, so either there is a correlation between them being cheap shit quality printers or only poor idiots are buying them, leading to all the posts. No such posts about prusas however, not by anyone practicing above fourth grade reading level at least. Prusas just work.

>>2541213
You're right, the Printables forum isn't filled with a constant stream of the same retarded questions and problems over and over and over . . .

1/?

>>2541281
2/?

>>2541282
3

>>2541283
4/4

>>2541281
>>2541284
What even is it

>order some PLA online
>they send you PLA+ instead
What am I in for lads?

>>2541225
What is the printables forum?

>>2540770
>bambu
>diy

>>2540892
>Annex K3
looks interesting ill look into it thanks anon

>>2540907
>p1p
>diy

>>2541213
>No such posts about prusas however
either they just werk or there are no posts because no one buys them

>>2541348
PLA+ is "premium" PLA in the most generic sense of the word. Basically, if a vendor added sometging to make it print easier or more durable or simply because it comes with a resealable bag, they will call it PLA+.

>>2541348
i use esun/inland/polymaker pla+. it's a lot tougher, as in it doesn't shatter generally. a part that would snap in PLA bends and stretches in pla+. its a good material.

I just had my first sucessful ABS print in months and I'm absolutely glowing

Cheapest POS ender 3 clone, kept making perfect prints until it got about 5mm up, and then the nozzle would hit the print and knock it off the bed. X axis was about 1mm off from side to side, I used 25 point mesh leveling.... But it's been printing perfectly with PLA-- which kind of makes me wonder how it could be an alignment problem.
Finally enabled z-hop and combing with other avoidance options and it printed perfectly.

IDK if I should add a second z-axis motor/rod or if I should just keep pressing my luck. Anyone here been through similar shit?

>he doesn't have his own cuck closet
Sad!

>>2541371
>Prusa Research distributes Original Prusa 3D printers to 160 countries worldwide, selling more than 400,000 machines in total, surpassing a 10% share in the worldwide desktop 3D printers market.
I guess they just werk.

>The 3D Printing Industry Statistics
>About 2.2 million 3D printer units were shipped in 2021

so ive been using f360, and i decided to give solidworks a try because so many files are step files and f360 wont do feature history for those so it's kind of a pain to edit them.
im using the trial version of solidworks, but every single step file i open has no feature tree, or timeline, or whatever.
on f360, if i edit a .f3d, i can see the sketches and extrusions and stuff, and edit them to modify the part. is that not a thing in solidworks?

>>2541420
>every single step file i open has no feature tree, or timeline, or whatever.
Did you try using google? The step format doesn't have a feature history, your cad software is just shitting it out its ass based on some kind of geometry analysis of the solid body. You can probably find the menu option (Tools -> create feature detection history manager wizard explorer) if you tried searching it on the google. I get that pop up (feature reconstruction?) every time I import a step and I never used it, ever.
Also sw uses parasolid format natively, and step works only ok. You should try a real software like openscad or whatever the fuck it's called.

>>2541420
>it's kind of a pain to edit them
edit what? post the part. I bet you can recreate it easily with convert outlines and extrude.

>>2541398
I have The Oven™, which gets to a toasty 65C whenever I print ABS. It also has integrated styrene vapor gassing facilities to answer any jewish questions you might have.

god damn creality is such a shit company

im certain they still exist solely because tinkerers have convinced themselves that using copegrades to keep a printer on life support is fun

>>2541356
it's prusa owned site where prusa owners go cry about all the issues that anon said don't exist on prusas
it's just that many people in this thread don't have prusas, but they have same issues as chink printers mostly.

>>2541420
>so it's kind of a pain to edit them
blender. also in f360 make sure you're using the import all the way to the right, the menu imports to the left do not allow stl editing, might be same in step.

history is unique to f360, I mean it might work in other autodesk but it's not a standard or anything.

fuuuuck me lads it's finally over

>>2541480
>blender. also in f360 make sure you're using the import all the way to the right, the menu imports to the left do not allow stl editing, might be same in step.
>
>history is unique to f360, I mean it might work in other autodesk but it's not a standard or anything.
6/10

so if a filament is fracturing internally noted by white stress lines after going through extruder and tube then extracted, and breaks instead of flexing in some cases, is that moisture fucked? and if so is that the sort of thing a food dehydrator will fix or is it fucked? prints are fine without hissing or popping, no defects shit's just brittle.

>>2541510
This can be moisture, but it can be degraded for other reasons.
UV exposure is one of the big ones, it's a rapist for most plastics, and PLA especially doesn't do well with UV exposure.
A combination of changing humidity and exposure to light can make a roll of PLA go to shit, or at least the outer layers near the surface.
It is absolutely worth trying to dry it, might come back with no issue, or you might find you've got several ruined meters of filament but still perfectly usable shit underneath.

Print isn't perfect but I'm happy with these rock sliders I bodged together for my SCX24

What firmware does a craftbot flow use?

>>2541467
What's the url, because I can't find it.

>>2541430
fuck you're right about that. i don't know why i assumed .step was the proprietary solidworks file format. no it absolutely doesn't contain feature history. that makes sense.

>>2541510
Is it happening after you leave it sitting around overnight? And just the stuff not directly on the roll (first few feet or so)?
It just happens. I think it's stress from being bent harshly. Maybe stresses from the extruder. If you remove your filament when you're done for the day, it won't happen.

This is overextrusion, first layer too low, right? Is it fucked or should I let it print? It takes a lot of time to heat up the enclosure so...

>>2541576
>Maybe stresses from the extruder.
It's absolutely this but it fractures during print so when I extract for filament swap first section is ruined. I can cut and keep going with new but sometimes it snaps off instead of pulling out.

>>2541584
you could lower the tension on your extruder. if it's really gouging into the filament, that's not helping. it only needs to grab enough to not slip.

ok, this way you can all learn from my mistakes. I can hear the nozzle skimming off the top of the print, but otherwise seems to be doing ok. My goal is to print abs with minimal warping, up to the bed size of ~200mm.

>>2541573
Yes.

>Superslicer bed level test uses 0.0 for the elephants foot compensation
>Default printer settings us -0.1
Why do they do this

>>2541574
https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/
Here's the highlight of the day.

>>2541573
Custom af, choose RepRapFirmware if you must use it, but you'd be better off using Craftbot's shit.

>>2541627
It all worked out in the end though.

>>2541632
>can't tighten belts
>fuck prusa
Amazing

>>2541634
>I've loosened and tightened the belts - didn't see a huge difference in either direction. Belt calibration numbers x = 240, and y = 271.

>>2541634
Fucking golden.
That's the kind of quality I was getting out of a Tevo Tarantula back in 2017.
It's 2023 and that's a 750+$ machine the dude is complaining about.
The Ender 3 Pro I have now prints way better.

>>2541640
>cheap printed petg motor mounts just snapping off
Holy shit this is even better.
Also I just realized that there's no way a Prusa would survive an insulated enclosure with all those printed parts.

Why is so much of the Prusa's 3D printed and not injection moulded? Wouldn't it work out cheaper for mass production?

>>2541634
When you buy a prusa, you're supposedly buying technical support.
Stop making excuses

>>2541643
85-95F is the safe high range for a Prusa in an enclosure.

>>2541647
Yes, they could make better parts for less money if they didn't print their own.
They're a gimmick company and your money goes to keep the gimmick alive.
They sell 10 year old printers for ridiculous prices that get btfo by mass-produced chink printers and DIY kits.

FUCK you Anycubic. Why in the name of God would you glue these tiny ass connectors? Not everyone has the emaciated chinky fingers required to work them, much less so with this fucking glue. Ive been trying to remove it for the past 30 minutes but this WILL NOT open. FUCK YOU CHINA AAAAAAAAAAAAAA

>>2541651
>85-95F is the safe high range for a Prusa in an enclosure.
>95F = 35C
Prusa can't even survive a hot summer day in east Europe holy lmao
Unironically should have bought an Ender. Barely has any plastic in it and the small amount present is not printed PETG.

>>2541654
It's so you can cleanly pull it off the board but leave the pins in place so you can jam dupont connectors on 'em.

>>2541657
It'll survive ambient temps of 38C (100F) but you aren't supposed to print when it's that hot.
They were great printers 10 years ago, and they've barely changed at all in that time, they're ancient DIY-tier trash now.

>>2541651
>mfw been cooking my ender in the polystyrene enclosure for almost 3 days straight printing resistor storage boxes
>survived 32 hour torture test printing the biggest box
>currently shitting out small drawers at a rate of one per hour
It got a small 2 hour break yesterday because the spool ran out while printing the small drawers, otherwise it's 10 minutes of cooldown so the part can pop off the plate and off to the next print.

>>2541658
Kek, exactly what i ended up doing. Hope i never screw up the orientation

>>2541662
Well of course, you bought a real printer.
The Ender 3 is based off an updated version of an updated version of an updated version of the printer that Prusa still sells, doing their best to ignore the last decade of innovation and half-ass any and all changes they make.

Ender 3 confirmed for the greatest 3D printer of all time

do 3d printed keys actually work?

First print on my recently upgraded Ender 3.

Massive vase with 0.5mm layer height printed in 1 hour 6 minutes using the new bi-metallic CHT Volcano 0.8mm nozzle. There's some underextrusion near top because I kept pushing the speeds up just to see what my limits were. Seems like with the PLA at 220C, the limit is around 45 cubic mm, conservatively speaking.

Printer specifics:
Biqu H2 extruder
Trianglelab CHC Pro heater
Bondtech Bimetal CHT Volcano nozzle, 0.8mm
Absolutely ridiculous parts cooling provided by 18w 25000 RPM 4028 Delta server fan

>>2541701
Glad to see the CRTouch housing didn't an hero.

>>2541710
I'm pretty sure my CRTouch housing is a lot stronger than the old one because of all the added meat for the Volcano spacer. Also easier to mount because of the heat sets vs dealing with the separate nuts and bolts on the original.

>>2541682
Locksmith here
Yes, they do. But, the plastic is much softer than the brass inside the lock so they wear down quickly. Not really something you would use daily. I used my Ender 3 and printed a sidewinder key for this dude's Honda motorcycle to make sure I decoded his lock correctly and the key worked exactly one time. But that was enough to print another key and then use my high security duplicator to copy it. This was before I got a nice key machine that can originate those keys by code.
They used to make things like pic related for people to bring to their locksmith and get cut (pic related is already cut) so they could keep an emergency key in their wallet.
>pic related

i got a drop of acetone on the frame of my printer. It looks to be something like ABS judging by how it discolored. It turned a lighter almost greasy looking color on the surface. the frame of the printer is black and I want it to at least not look like i got a drop of acetone on it.
I tried sanding a bit of the frame in a hidden area, with 320 grit sandpaper, and it doesn't look great.
i dont have any other ABS but i put a drop of acetone on some PLA and it changes color in a similar way when the acetone dries off. like a big white patch.
sanding doesn't really work unless i sanded the entire frame and i don't want to do that.
i tried to hit the frame with a lighter to see if that would help and it doesn't really.

how would you suggest i make it not look so bad?
if I can't come up with a better solution I think i'm going to try and sand it down a bit and go over it with a sharpie.

Polycarbonate was a mistake.

Wish me luck!

>>2541739
You have a 3D printer, your job is to solve your problems with 3D printing.

3D print a new one.
Or, 3D print a cosmetic cover to hide the screws (and coincidentally the blemish).

>>2541759
i could print a cover and just slot it over the thing. yeah that's not the worst idea in the universe. it would look better than trying to fix the finish to the extent that it doesn't look like i dropped acetone on it.

>>2541739
Honestly, why do you care so much about a discolored dot on your printer? Are you a woman?

>>2541765
It's a shame dot, it's only natural.

>>2541739
Scrape/slice it flat with a straight edge razor, then buff it out with a acetone soaked rag.

>>2541753
I want to try PC. sell me the rest of your roll, and then I'll sell it to the next anon when I see why you hate it!

>>2541757
See you next week.

>>2541757

>>2541757
Add this to [bltouch] to make your mesh twice as fast.

probe_with_touch_mode: true
stow_on_each_sample: false

my 196 point mesh

>>2541785
webm related

Stowing the probe is a waste of time.

>>2541785
Holy shit that's way faster! Good call, fucking protip. I went back to 10,10 (instead of 1024x3 probes) just to get back to printing again.
I'm just trying to find the exact spot on my bed thats all fucked up. Visually it looks normal but when I did 5x5 it showed a low spot in the back right corner. So I did a 10x10 and it showed something similar. I have no idea what's going on with it because I have a glass bed. So I thought if I did a very detailied probe, maybe I could find the exact spot that was low. I don't know what I would do about it anyways since it's glass. I also have 3-point leveling and the normal screws_tilt_calculate shows everything within 6 minutes so I dont know whats going on. I even releveled my gantry (dual Z) in case it was that but that didn't change the bed mesh.

>>2541786

how do you do a 196 point? lagrange algo only allows 6 on x, and y totallying to 36. This would be nice to do onmy 300x300 bed.

>>2541801
change from lagrange to bicubic.

>>2541786
You've got flat spots on your shitty Chinese rollers.

>>2541801
>>2541800
To further elaborate, here's my klipper config.
[bltouch]
sensor_pin: ^PC14
control_pin: PA1
x_offset: -37.5
y_offset: 0
probe_with_touch_mode: true
stow_on_each_sample: false

[bed_mesh]
speed: 200
horizontal_move_z: 4
mesh_min: 5, 5
mesh_max: 197, 220
probe_count: 6, 6
algorithm: bicubic
bicubic_tension: 0.2
fade_start: 1
fade_end: 8

Here's one more klipper speed protip. You can adjust how much the printer will move up after it probes a point with "horizontal_move_z", so you waste less time moving up and down. Be careful with this though since if you go too crazy with it and your bed has a lot of warp to it you'll scrape the tip of the probe on the bed as it moves around.

>>2541810
I thought so too, until I replaced the wheels and found that it made no difference. So the x gantry extrusion is probably fugged or something. Doesn't matter. If you can get variance down to 0.1mm it's good enough.

So who has experience with dual material support, specifically:
1. bambu labs support W
2. water dissoluble support
3. using a non-compatible filament (PETG with PLA or vice versa)

I was under the impression that the "support W" was #2 but it's more like proprietary PLA+ closer to #3. support W seems like it might be hard to come by for a minute, and they don't seem to have a product for ASA ABS temps so I'm curious what my options are.

So experience or thoughts?

>>2541630
But craftbots slicer sucks ass.
Thats why Im making a Superslicer config.

>>2541701
>0.5mm layer height printed in 1 hour 6 minutes using the new bi-metallic CHT Volcano 0.8mm nozzle
Nice. Still within the realm of a regular Volcano though. I usually print my vases with the 1.2 nozzle at 0.4 layer height and it takes about 45-70 minutes to get to Z 200, depending on the geometry.

>>2541811
I adjusted my speed and the distance it moves up in Z with each probe (plus the other stuff) and its much much faster now. Still getting that low spot in the back right corner but thats OK. Thanks for the tips!

>>2541785
>>2541797
Any tips to make klipper's bed mesh leveling actually work? Currently I probe a 4x4 and it looks fairly level in the visualizer plugin but when I start a print the first layer is all over the place. Too low in some places, too high in others. And that's with the bed hand leveled beforehand.

>>2541829
Few suggestions. Run probe_accuracy in the console to confirm your probe isn’t fugged. Use more probe points, and calibrate your xy offsets using the tape + pen method that klipper documentation describes. The printer needs to know exactly where the probe is in relation to the tip of the nozzle or else it won’t raise and lower the nozzle in the right spots.

uh uh...

>>2541831
>probe_accuracy in the console to confirm your probe isn’t fugged
This is the output:
probe accuracy results: maximum 1.917500, minimum 1.890000, range 0.027500, average 1.908500, median 1.910000, standard deviation 0.006819
Should be more than good enough, plus I knew the probe was okay since it's used as Z endstop and prints go well if I don't use leveling.

>Use more probe points
Tried up to 6x6, still no improvements.

>xy offsets
Already did that, the tape and pen gave me the same values that I calculated in CAD.

>>2541841
>Already did that, the tape and pen gave me the same values that I calculated in CAD.
well arent you a fancy fuck

>>2541845
Well, if I design a hotend mount I might as well calculate the probe offset to save myself the effort of doing it manually.
Anyways, point is everything is fine but the bed mesh just refuses to compensate correctly.

i took my printer apart and removed the lube from all the bearings and shit, and packed them all with lithium grease and it's so smooth now its ridiculous.

>>2541654
Just rewire their shit on upgrade. Product is good, but I cant just leave it as stock.

I removed their fucked up little break out boards and hard wired longer cables. Simples.

If you dont agree with the 'standard' become the standard.

The discussion about chink shit machines and the dumb-asses that use them - with the same fucked up questions all the time - let me throw some facts into the ring.

I worked in Consumer Electronics, and previous to that Help Desk - back with Compaq was still a thing, and HP was run by a woman who thought it was a great idea to add a bagel holder as standard on HP desktops.

'Customers' will buy the step above the lowest value - whenever possible. This is why the 'Good, Better, Best' concept sells the 'Better' product almost 80% of the time. Through internal bargaining the customer will convince themselves that they need the Anycubic as its $30 more expensive, but dont need the Prusa because its the top of the line.

Then! The value of the product determines how they treat it. If they did buy the bottom two, they treat the product poorly - if it breaks, its because it was cheap - not because it failed from ID10T errors.

This was prominent in digital cameras back in the day, when the more expensive units would fail at a higher rate, but the cheaper and mid range would fail a lot less. Because of PEBCAC, perception of value and to an extent FOF/Authority there was a perceived higher failure rate.

Prusa users look after their shit, generally, and rightfully so when they cost as much as a Tesla. When . We need to remind Timmy to stop crimping the cables for the hotend on his Kingroon with his teeth.

I was extremely curious what bambu studio 's auto support placement was thinking when it sliced this floating support so I printed it, did not disappoint...

>>2540814
>listen fucker, put a link to the new thread in the old thread when you make a new thread.
ditto
t. just found out there was a new thread after doing 2+2 on why the old thread was slowing down

>>2541919
Nevermind, despite this, prints came out very clean

learnding how to model
made my first thing in onshape to slot into my little acrylic robot
made a part to glue on as well to test that out since i haven't glued anything yet

also nearly every model i download for anything i want to do always is not the right dimensions or just horribly designed, nearly melted my esp32cam before because the case had no vents zzz

>>2541770
It shrinks, worse than ABS. You see this in layer cracking and warping, but also in peeling up from the bed unless you raft.

I'm currently trying a print at 100.5% cooling shrink compensation and I still don't think my parts are gonna fit.

>>2540127
How does one 3D print outside of a production setting...?

>>2541804
>>2541811

After I originally looked at the 196 point bed mesh I went through documentation, and figured maybe that anon here >>2541811
was using
>mesh_pps: 2, 2
>https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html?h=bed_mesh#bed_mesh

but looks like its not in your klipper configuration.

Thanks for providing your settings.

>>2541944
my gap between the plugs was too small and i cracked my acrylic a bit, oops
also forgot how annoying superglue is

its really nice being able to go change the sketch dimensions afterwards at least

rate my new qr print

>>2541882
>be me
>buy x1
>proceed to feed it garbage
>have to rip it apart hot to save a print
good times

>>2541882
Thanks for your life story bro, very helpful response. I only bought it for the 300x300x300 build area.

Voron is a cult

It gives back to you in tho.
i love this printer

>>2541818
Good luck, they're pretty solid machines overall, and people have had success working with them in PrusaSlicer and Cura; hell it'd probably be easy to grab one of the existing PrusaSlicer profiles and bring it in to SuperSlicer.
If you ever get tired of it though, a decent controller isn't terribly expensive (starting around $40USD) and would give you heaps of freedom to really make the most of the machine, the biggest "challenge" would be plugging everything in!

As Raspberry Pi's are insanely expensive, it looks like the only viable option I have for remote controlled printing is the Creality WiFi Box. Has any one used it?

>>2542028
You have a shitload of options depending on your needs.
The Atomic Pi is a full-blown x86 PC that shits all over many other SBCs: https://www.amazon.com/DLI-APi-Atomic-Developers-Kit/dp/B08CGFM2B1
That's because it's not a real SBC, they're surplus embedded computers originally intended for some robot product that never hit the market, and some group/investor/whatever bought up their massive surplus of x86 boards and started shitting them out as "Atomic Pi" single-board computers.
They're old crap, but they're good, and for $50 it'll play Fallout 3 on medium settings; it'll easily serve as a klipper controller/server.

The Makerbase Pi clone is a whole $36 https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804231556479.html
It's trash next to a Pi4 imho, but it's more than capable as a Klipper server.

Plenty of people run off a $35 Libre Le Potato: https://www.amazon.com/Libre-Computer-AML-S905X-CC-Potato-64-bit/dp/B074P6BNGZ
Runs Klipper well with Debian, but a little lacking for OctoPrint with its specs.

There are also plenty of folks who use Android set-top boxes, as many run the same Allwinner chips you find in plenty of Chinese SBCs (like much of the Orange Pi lineup), and known usable ones like this T95 run about $30: https://www.amazon.com/T95-Mini-TUREWELL-cortex-A53-Streaming/dp/B07SM8WTBT
The best examples I've seen use a modified Inovata image: https://3dpandme.com/2022/09/04/tutorial-t95-mini-tv-box-klipper-install/

Inovato also sells the Quadra which itself is just a repurposed Android set-top box, specifically set up for 3D printer use as a Pi alternative.
https://www.inovato.com/

There you go, plenty of options from $30 - $50, ranging from "good enough" to "overpowered as fuck."

>>2542039
Nice one

>>2542039
Damn that Quadra only ships to the US and Canada. Being a yuropoor is suffering

>>2542026
where do I find those existing PrusaSlicer profiles?
I already had a look a while ago and couldnt find any, only cura.
Not my machine by the way, just helping out a buddy. I got my own design comming up in 3 years or something if my current projects go according to plan.

>>2542046
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07THJJTK4
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Android-Quad-Core-Support-2-4GHz-Smart/dp/B07T2H4FFF/
https://www.amazon.es/Android-Amlogic-S905W-Soporte-2-4Ghz/dp/B07GWPJ15L/

Read this before you buy anything:
https://3dpandme.com/2022/09/04/tutorial-t95-mini-tv-box-klipper-install/

>>2540892
vorons are notorious for being ultra difficult to build tho

>>2542051
Could I just use my old phone?

>>2542048
Craftbot Plus/Pro: https://github.com/itzgoldenleonard/Craftbot-Plus-essentials/
Flow (Idex?): https://github.com/polishx3/Craftbot-Prusaslicer

Be aware that Craftbot firmware is flawed, the most distinct example being non-compliant gcode handling.
This may be of value if you run into unusual issues: https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/issues/6996

>>2542055
Short version: No
Old phones can be great for some shit, like Octoprint: https://github.com/feelfreelinux/octo4a
Klipper though, just no, Klipper relies on being able to do a lot of "real-time" shit, and Android devices are just not appropriate.
It'd be like running Klipper from Windows, "fine" sometimes and fucked at others.
If you have an old Android phone that has an unlocked/unlockable bootloader and actual linux images available, that'd be more realistic.
There are some old phones that people run Debian on quite successfully, and one of those might make a decent Klipper server, but you're layering hacky shit on hacky shit at that point.
Sure might be fun for the right enthusiast, but not a realistic option for most people.

tl;dr: No

>>2542059
Whats the difference? I'm just sick of taking the SD card in and out and want to be able to just upload to the printer

>>2542056
That looks promising.
Special thanks for the headsup.

>>2542060
In that case, Octo4a and an old phone might be fine.

If all you want to do is remotely manage/use your existing setup, you don't necessarily need Klipper or any of that.
You'd more likely be interested in Octoprint. Octoprint is often used together with Klipper, so there can be some overlap in those topics.
Octoprint handles the printer remotely, giving you a nice easy web interface to monitor and control it from, and supports plugins for fun things like controlling webcams for timelapses.
It can "run" the printer directly, but it's not a reliable way to print; more typically you upload to the SD card remotely via octoprint and print that way!
There are other ways to go about it, but using Octoprint to upload to the SD card and printing from SD that way is extremely reliable and safe.
You can do it all remotely, all very easily, and it makes monitoring prints a breeze.
Octoprint doesn't need the real-time control that's required for Klipper, because it's not participating in the printing process, so to speak.
Android phones that support the features required for Octo4a are a great option, typically with a high quality camera built in!

Klipper is an alternative to typical RepRap or Marlin based firmware you find on most printers.
The biggest difference in how it works is that it's a 2-part split system that requires full-time control from a dedicated computer.
Most often, that's a Raspberry Pi.
By nature of how it works, Klipper constantly communicates between the printer's mainboard and this "klipper server" device.
This way, lots of the complex math that has to happen can be done by the more powerful "server" while the mainboard does the easier task of shoving motors around without having to think about it.
There are plenty of other differences between Klipper and the more common Marlin firmware, but that's the most distinctive, it REQUIRES full-time control from a DEDICATED Klipper server like a Raspberry Pi, an old laptop, or this shit: >>2542039

>>2542078
Ah right sound, thanks for the help dude
Is something like Klipper even worth using on a cheap printer like the Ender 3 Neo?

>>2540892
>design philosophy
>"let's put a(n overpriced as fuck) regular hotend on this machine that can go really fast and would really benefit from a high flow hotend"
>"part cooling? A single blower will do, it's not like this thing prints really fast, right?"
And other retardations. Vorons are designed from top to bottom by motion system engineers who overdesigned every part of the motion system but make the most embarrassing blunders when it comes to other areas.

>>2542078
>typically you upload to the SD card remotely via octoprint and print that way
I could feel my beard growing just reading this.
Uploading to SD via Octoprint is slow as fuck because the data rate is limited by the mainboard's max baudrate. 250k (the max octoprint supports) is fucking glacial for anything but really small prints. I don't even want to imagine what it's like on the standard 115.2k rate.

>>2542083
Is there such thing as a wireless device I can plug into the SD card slot and upload directly to that?

>>2542028
orangePi my man

>>2541962
why not smooth?

>>2542083
>Uploading to SD via Octoprint is slow as fuck
Don't spoil it for the kids, Marty!
Yes, it's insanely horrendously slow, and it's not even a baudrate issue.
You can check for yourself, it doesn't even use half the rate of a 115200 connection.
It's the firmware, and the worst offender is Marlin, holy fuck the way Marlin handles writing to SD is horrid, and Prusa's firmware is no better (shocking.)
Makes me sad.
Printing via Octoprint directly without uploading to SD is definitely faster by a huge margin, but it's error prone on low-powered devices, and anything running Android (Octo4a) or Windows, especially when you have plugins going for timelapses or whatever.

>>2542087
There are actually SD cards with wifi built right in, they've been around for over a decade, mostly used in photography.
Some would work no problemo with a 3D printer, but I wouldn't count on it, they're "weird" to put it politely.
Toshiba FlashAir cards are solid, high compatibility, I know from experience that they work just fine with a 3D printer, but god damn they're hard to find and overpriced as FUCK now. ($150+ for 8gb)

There's the FYSETC SD-WIFI, that's made specifically for 3D printers, dirt cheap at about $15, and Tommy Sandals did a brief review video that goes over the specs and limitations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHNZPRl8gzA
Should make it very easy to decide if it's a viable option for you.

There are other options, but running Octoprint on an Android phone with Octo4a can be problematic if you try to print directly instead of uploading to SD and printing from there.
File transfers can be slow, but it'll all work.
On something dedicated and a little more appropriate, like a Pi4, you can print directly without uploading to SD, and you're less likely to run into problems. At that point though, you'd already have all the pieces in place to go full Klipper+Octoprint, which would be an even better (if somewhat more complex) setup.

>>2542087
Not as far as I know.
Just print directly from Octoprint. It's not the shitfest that guy claims it is. Printing from USB is plenty reliable and that's how printers worked for the longest of time.
Also, think about it this way: Klipper trusts the USB connection enough to send raw movement data through it. Not GCODE commands, but exactly what the stepper drivers should be doing. The machines that commonly use Klipper operate at really high speeds without any issues.

>>2542096
Pi4's are £150+ right now. I just don't wanna keep putting the SD card in and out cos I got a feeling the port will break cos its Chinese shit. That WiFi SD card seems handy though

>>2542096
Totally forgot, the BigTreeTech Cloud, comes in both fullsize SD and MicroSD versions, effectively equivalent to the FYSETC SD-WIFI.
https://biqu.equipment/de/products/bigtreetech-module-btt-tf-cloud-v1-0-sd-cloud-wireless-transmission-module?variant=31555936944226

The Cloud and SD-WIFI "can" be quick, definitely quicker than the slow transfers via octoprint.
Again though, there are limitations, Sandals covered 'em well in the SD-WIFI video.
It's a really easy solution with high compatibility, any printer mobo using SPI to access the SD card and not SDIO.
Even if your printer uses SDIO, displays/screens for printers often have their own additional SD card slot that you can configure your firmware to use, and that is "usually" SPI, lots of options here.

What other uses have you found for your 3d printer other than 3d printing? I've seen people convert them to laser engravers, cnc machines, little hand-writing things, etc.

>>2542101
For those feeling extra frisky, make your own:
https://github.com/ardyesp/ESPWebDAV

>>2542100
makenprint has a decent tutorial that shows how to get going with a BTT Cloud:
https://www.makenprint.uk/3d-printing/3d-printing-guides/btt-sd-tf-cloud-v1-0-setup/
You'll want to find out if your printer is using SDIO or SPI for the SD card slot, usually won't be hard to find out.
If you're really not sure, just ask here, note what printer you have (as precisely as possible) and what mobo it has if you've changed it.

>>2542103
Added a $6 harbor freight dremel toolhead, so much more useful than I ever imagined.
It's underpowered garbage of course, but it's good enough to engrave/cut plastic with ease.
I've also used it to drill out custom PCBs, did a reasonable job at a low speed.

Plotting with pens and whatnot is fun too, but the most "useful" thing I've done like that is using good fabric markers to draw directly on T-Shirts.

>>2542105
Considering I'm having a hard time finding a microusb otg adapter with charging I might just go with that SD card

I have a Ender 3 Neo with the 4.2.2 mobo iirc

>>2542113
Well I probably should've guessed Creality.
Sadly, that mobo does use SDIO.
To use it with the BTT Cloud / FYSETC SD-WIFI, you'd need to add an SPI based SD slot to your printer.
Many aftermarket LCDs have 'em, or you can do a standalone one for cheap.

That said, it's not a drop-in plug and play easy-peasy solution anymore, it'll take dicking around in firmware to work with.
Not terribly difficult or complicated, but definitely not beginner friendly at all.
You'd be picking up something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Integrated-Circuit-Interface-Raspberry-Breakout/dp/B08C4WY2WR/
That's a 2 pack of SD card slots with SPI controllers ready to use.
You'd then need to hook that up alongside the existing LCD so they share the same SPI connection, and set it all up in Marlin.
If you don't already understand what I'm saying, I'd say don't bother, it's not going to be a fun project for someone who isn't already comfortable fucking with Marlin or microcontrollers in this way.

>>2542144
Damn so I can't even use those fancy SD cards? Its odd they are so special
Probably going to be the easiest to just use a android box or source the creality wifi box for easiness I guess

>>2542147
>Probably going to be the easiest to just use a android box or source the creality wifi box for easiness I guess
Pretty much.
From this list: >>2542039
For Octoprint with plugins and nonsense and not having to worry about it, your easiest and cheapest options aside would be the Makerbase Pi, and the H6 based Android TV boxes that work with this tutorial: https://3dpandme.com/2022/09/04/tutorial-t95-mini-tv-box-klipper-install/
It's Inovato's Raspberry Pi debian image for those Android boxes that makes them attractive and easy options, so that little tutorial is important.

My gf wants to print tabletop 2" DnD game pieces, and I want to print drone parts and magazines for my guns. What's the best printer for all of this?

Not to be rude, but with all the nigger rigging going on in these threads, how have more of you not just grabbed a duet 2? I get that some of you younglings are piss broke, but surely a few of you could justify the price given what you throw away on upgrades and other add-ons. Every time we lose have a thread to connection options and octo print, I just pull up my duet on my phone or pc and wonder if I missed some inside joke. What gives?

>>2542208
Tabletop figs are best on SLA printers (the resin ones)
The other stuff is best on FDM printers (the plastic spaghetti one)

>>2542167
Thanks for all the info and help I appreciate it

>>2542213
The Duet 2 doesn't hit the mark.
It's great, but it's pricey, and it's a big "one-step" replacement.
Being able to upgrade one step at a time instead of investing in a mainboard that costs more than the printer is very attractive.

If someone's got a cheapo setup to begin with, and they want to expand and upgrade, tacking on a Pi to use Octoprint and Klipper is an easy and substantial upgrade.
It used to be more of a no-brainer when Pis were affordable and easy to find, now it's much more of a discussion, and there's actually a use case for many of the "alternative" boards that most didn't bother fucking with previously.
Still, there are tons of options, including purpose made offerings from MKS with their MKS Pi and BigTreeTech with their CB1 Compute Module optionally available with an adapter board that makes it a full blown Pi 4 alternative.

If I'm going to replace the whole mainboard, and I'm already familiar with Octoprint, and now I want to upgrade to something that won't require an external Pi but still lets me use Octoprint and Klipper on top of that without a hitch, why not buy the MKS SKIPR for $50-$60?
It's cheaper than the Duet, and already runs all the shit I'm used to, all ready to go.
Similar deal with the BigTreeTech Manta, which lets you plug an Rpi compute module directly, together with their clone CB1 module it's about $70 for the 5-driver variant.

I've got no genuine complaints about the Duet 2, it's fuckin' great, but I can definitely see why others don't go that route.

How ass is it going to be to print nylon on an ender 3 pro?
Anything specific one might need to buy?
This is for a legit print job worth $400 maybe $500, not enough to cover the costs of a new printer or even subsidize one and $130 of that has to go to materials.

Is there any software that I can use to make gcode paths? I want to make a custom script that just moves my hotend around the bed in a certain way to cool it down but so far I've been unsuccessful. I tried NCVeiwer online but it just crashes for me if I right-click. I'm hoping for something I can download.

Anyone know the proper XY co-ordinates to move the nozzle too to calibrate the bed? The Ender 3 Neo doesn't seem to do this itself and one has CR touch levelling

>>2542235
ASSSSSSSSSSSSS - Prepare to have a bad time.

Still not fun or easy in my opinion. At a minimum, you'll need a dry box and an enclosure.
With an enclosure, Nylon isn't that bad, it's just very prone to warp, and extremely moisture sensitive.
A whole spool can turn from perfect to unusable garbage in less than an hour outside the filament dryer, so it needs to be dried and then kept dry.
Printing from a dry box will save you tons of grief.
Dry filament, stable enclosure temperature (doesn't have to be crazy high, most printers can easily keep their enclosure at 80-90F), and it won't be that bad.

You can be cheap, put the spool in a nigger-rigged shoebox full of desiccant and throw a cardboard box over the printer while it's going.
Not the best way to go but it'd do the job, I did it plenty in the past for printing Nylon, ABS, and Polycarbonate.

Are you restricted to a specific material, or just "Nylon"?
Overture Easy Nylon is as the name implies, about as easy at it gets for printing Nylon.
It's not magic, but it's definitely easier to print than any other I've dealt with.
https://www.amazon.com/OVERTURE-Filament-Consumables-Polyamide-Dimensional/dp/B087R3M9Z2

>>2542235
I've heard of people printing nylon fine. Go have a look at what people do. You have to do something fucky if i remember right

>>2542233
Certainly, its not for everyone. I just see so many people pour hours and dollars into rigging up these multiboard monstrosities, and running into headache after headache. Duets have top of the line drivers that are whisper quiet. No hassle access and control/upload from any device with a browser. And the entire this is run on a single page of gcode. No compiling or secret code deep dives or tweaks needed. I understand if you just like the challenge, but the cost seems justified when ease of use and QoS is considered.

The only thing I will concede is duet doesn't really have a good Webcam implementation feature.

>>2542236
G-code is like html. Just read up a bit and you can manually write fairly complex path pretty quickly.

>>2541962
10/10 you fucking memer

>>2542244
I definitely agree that the Duet is an easy solution, but you're on /diy/.

I'll gladly trade massive, massive gobs of my time and sanity in exchange for not buying something I can instead make a poor imitation of.
3D Printers are just so perfect for that.
>2c coat hanger? Fuck you, I'mma spend my time designing and printing a custom folding coat-hanger with tits on it
>$5 for a shower head? Fuck you, I'mma spend my time downloading one from thingiverse and adding tits to it.
>Nice genuine double-shot keycaps for $10/set? Fuck you, I'mma waste a week printing a complete set and every key will have tits on it.

>>2542241
>Are you restricted to a specific material, or just "Nylon"?
This is for very specific fitment bushings to a amusement ride to stop metal on metal contact. Nylon is what I was told was the original material. I think they are willing to try a lesser material just because they don't have any other option except me but I do want to try to match the original material

IDK if there is anything else that might have the same abrasion resistance but is easier to print

>>2542253
Why are they getting some anon with a budget 3D printer to make this?

kek my dinner made it to the pic

>>2542253
>amusement ride
>non certified parts
oh boy

>>2542252
That was my assumption, just wasn't sure. I will say that with the duet making the control experience care free, I've really got in tune with the mechanical aspects of fine tuning the build. Any complication has been because of the printer itself, and lack of infinite squareness/rigidity.

>>2542258
Their source is gone and have no CAD files for the part. I'm weary about it but afaik it's not a safety issue if it wears prematurely.

>>2542260
any part is "certified" when you're the original manufacturer of the ride in the first place.

>>2542253
Sounds like Nylon is gonna be the way to go.
Nylon can be a finicky bitch, but it's still totally doable for a home gamer with a "typical" printer.
Don't make the mistake of grabbing fiber reinforced GF / CF / Kevlar or whatever; some can actually be less challenging to print than normal Nylon, but all would be the opposite of what you want when abrasion is a concern.

There are better options, but the only ones I know of are orders of magnitude more expensive, and considerably more challenging to print even with purpose-made printers.

Overture Easy Nylon is one of the "weakest" options when compared to other Nylon filaments, but at $34/kg, it's Nylon, and it's the easiest nylon I've found.
When I want to print something in Nylon and really trust it, I use Push Plastic or MatterHackers Nylon.
They're both on the pricier end, with PP's Nylon coming in at $60/kg, and MH's Nylon at $83/kg (in 0.75kg spools for $62.)
Push Plastic's only comes in black, Matterhacker's comes in a range of colors.
Both great options for seriously high quality Nylon without any fiber reinforcement.

Rpi 3a+ is available for approx 30$ as per pilocator

>>2542052
You're probably thinking of Ratrig. Vorons are relatively easy to build with clear and crowd tested instructions, just time consuming at about 30-40 hours. I'm looking through your Steam account right now though, and I notice you have more play time than that on several games (each).

>>2542274
I'll keep in mind the push plastics, kinda expensive but that may not be an issue depending on how much their willing to pay for these parts
In the mean time I have ordered a dry box and a cheap spool of yxpolyer nylon just to fuck with. Might just try to print without an enclosure as the printer is already in a closet

>>2542306
Good luck, have fun, dry the fuck out of that shit before you even bother starting.
Nylon is fucking magical in its ability to suck moisture out of the air.
I hope you have a camera because opening the closet door during a print to check on it will probably end badly.

>>2542274
>great options for seriously high quality Nylon without any fiber reinforcement.
Oregon Gatorline.

I printed a trash can but the sides buckled in lol.

1hr 7m, was pushing 41 cubic mm the whole time.

Sold an ender 3 stock for $200 AUD ($140USD).

>>2542368
maybe add some Xs on the sides to stiffen it, like a jerrycan

>>2542372
isn't that the normal price?

>>2542385
second hand idk what a good price is. I just priced it at what I thought was fair. I paid about the same new so IDK. came with some extra filament and shelfs

>>2542368
add slight corrugations, it will rigidify it massivly.

>>2542368
What size nozzle were you using?

>>2542416
0.8
>>2542373
>>2542393
I'm well aware.

>>2542368
How do you like the resin printed hotend stuff? I'm thinking about doing the same for mine because my current hotend setup is PLA. I wanted to use a certain color blue (Jayo GITD Blue) that looks almost like the lighter color you have. I read a lot of people don't recommend resin printed parts for the hotend because they crumble at a certain temp but I guess if my PLA stands up fine than the resin stuff should be good as well. Did you glue in the heat inserts?
Also, do you like the ceramic heater? I just bought one of those as well and hopefully it'll be here by February. I got it to replace the heating block on my V6.

>>2542311
Thats funny, do people actually print with this stuff?

>>2542425
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XsrkFIuQEZM
https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/3d-printing-trimmer-line
>IMPORTANT: Please make sure to only 3D print trimmer line in well-ventilated areas where you're not constantly present. As some of you pointed out, some materials that are not primarily intended for 3D printing can release TOXIC FUMES when heated!

>>2542425
It was the OG nylon filament, although it has to be dried before use as that.

>>2542422
Honestly couldn't tell you about resin. I've only ever had FDM printers.

All my 3D printer parts are printed from ABS in my enclosed Rat Rig that gets to 60C, so I can pretty much print any size ABS part with no warping. I've printed printer parts out of PLA and PETG in the past but they don't hold up to heat, especially the parts closest to the hotend. PLA also creeps under screw tension, so screws need to be repeatedly tightened over time and the PLA eventually flattens out and becomes useless. In my experience ABS holds up the best.

Don't ask why I keep dumping money into this Ender 3 when I have an ultra fast and capable Rat Rig. It's a fucking disease. At this point, with this hotend, nozzle, and cooling setup, my Ender 3 easily can shit out prints faster than my Rat Rig with a 0.5mm nozzle.

Heatsets are inserted with a soldering iron, and yeah I like the CHC Pro so far. Time will tell. It heats up quicker than any hotend I've used before, probably because it draws 100+ watts at room temp.

what the hell i was waiting on the other thread for a new thread's link to be posted but it never was

>>2540789
buy a sovol
>ali
no

>>2542428
I thought you fixed your CR Touch with resin... I must have misread. Shit, re-reading >>2540727 mentions overextrusion and I see the lines now. Well shit, I feel dumb lol.
I bought some of the same color ABS as my current hotend to reprint my everything with but never got my enclosure/extraction system set up so it's just been in the bag for like a year. I did buy some "abs like" resin to reprint the hotend parts with recently. I'll give it a go here in a few days and see how it works. I'm using the "CR-10 Heavy Duty customisable modular e3D V6 mount Volcano 5015 ABL" by chito on my machine and it works well but it's a really old design (2017) so maybe I'll do something else. My shit is sagging and I was wondering why because everything is tight but its visibly lower on one side. Fucking PLA.
I'm at the same point with my Ender 3. Upgraded so much on it at this point. Is it even an Ender? I'm about to buy a new carriage and rails for the Y axis... It's stupid. But, my late Dad got it for me so I can't get rid of it. Hoping to build something better at some point. That was the idea at least. I have almost everything I need for a Voron except for the extrusions I'm just not sure if I want to go that route anymore or not. I just want a fast CoreXY machine.

>>2542445
>I'm at the same point with my Ender 3. Upgraded so much on it at this point. Is it even an Ender? I'm about to buy a new carriage and rails for the Y axis... It's stupid. But, my late Dad got it for me so I can't get rid of it
keep it working anon you'll be happy you did later on

What's your opinoin on Flying Bear Ghost 6? Have they improved it compared to previous iterations?

I've gotta life so this is way late but:
>>2541055
>it would be ludicrous to attempt to curate the totality of knowledge of 3D printing, as minor as it is.
Strawman. For the 4352365th time, you don't get to pretend that asking for the bare minimum of explanation is the same as asking for everyone to present an encyclopedia with every answer. Fuck off.

>Enjoy your factory job or whatever it is you do with your GED and your rage addiction, pathetic nigger.
I am literally an engineer that works in industrial automation. My full-time job is telling retards like you how to do your job better and how to convey what you know to others because you're fucking shit at it.

>>2541057
S+ tier post. Good insight. Thank you for your contribution.

>>2541064
>So you haven't even scratched the surface, you are a complete noob to 3D printing still.
Yes, the topic this entire time has been how utterly bullshit it is that 99% of people claiming to be making guides for 3D printing are NOT making them for the people that need them, but apparently targeting themselves, because they're too stupid to realize that other people don't know the things that they themselves know.

>These aren't consumer machines, they're not on the shelf at Best Buy for $45.
The most popular printer is literally off-the-shelf for $99 at Microcenter. Get with the times.

>If you haven't turned a screw, used a multimeter, soldered to a PCB, or played with a microcontroller then jumping into 3D printing with cheap Chinese machines is jumping right into the deep end, it's trying to run before you walk.
I literally assemble, code, and troubleshoot industrial robotics. I regularly do root locus analysis on feedback control loops for sensitive assemblies. I assessed a PCB for parasitic capacitance and heat transfer issues just last week and got paid about $100/hour for it, taking into account total compensation. I'm not walking. I'm in orbit on a space station bitching about how primitive you fucks are.

>>2541065
Take your own advice. Don't try to change me. See how that logic works?
I know exactly how to learn. My complaint is that this self-teaching approach is hideously inefficient. It's fully fucking retarded to pile multiple hours of struggle onto newbies because idiots like you think we shouldn't criticize knowledgeable people when they fucking suck at communicating.

Should newbies take initiative and put in the hours and learn how to do this stuff? Of course!

Does that change the fact that the veterans that can't explain shit and think everyone can read their mind need to grow the fuck up and learn how to talk like an adult? Also yes! Both things can be true.

>>2541074
imo I'm one of the few that did speak like a human. The rest gibbered like dumb apes. If we took all these comments and broke them down semantically and analyzed them for soundness and validity mine would be pretty good, but the cretins that pushed back would mostly be put on disability due to clear intellectual handicap.

>>2542461
i feel like that not having a dedicated spool container is a waste

>>2542485
>>2542482
newbie here
my biggest problem is the sheer quantity of guides and info and how much is outdated

>have idea
>spend a half to full day modeling and refining it
>import into slicer
>200x200 410g 18h
>hmm
>google idea/thing
>30+ results
>40x60 55g 3h (at worst)
>rinse and repeat
>every
>single
>fuckin
>time
damn. guess I'm pretty bad at the whole simplicity and efficiency thing or something.

>>2542491
I feel that deeply.
That's one reason I'm passionate about this: If you explain the underlying reasoning properly instead of just telling someone to blindly follow the steps, they can determine if the guide is right for them or not. Sometimes you can skip steps, or need to include extra steps, to adapt a process to suit your needs. This is hindered when the author doesn't provide any kind of framework that allows you to hook this new information into your existing knowledge.

Put another way: The way most people make guides and tutorials in this hobby is like if part sellers didn't label the size, weight, thread pitch, material, etc, on their parts. You go to the part store and you find shelves of parts with labels very close to what you think you need but you can't be sure without lots of trial and error. And the next person to come into the store will have the same problem. And so on and so forth until almost everyone in the hobby has experienced this. And it all could have been prevented with proper information on the part labels.

>>2542494
have idea
google
improve

order of operations matters

>>2542491
>have issue
>find guide
>it's a video
>five minutes of talking around the issue
>skips solving
>
I fucking hate youtube culture

>>2541962
I fucking knew it and still fell for it

waiting on my filament dryer. am going to be a real boy soon.

>>2542516
>not this shit again
REVERSE POLISH NOTATION

Even if not, when obelus sign is used it can be interpret in any way, and that's why you can get either answer, talk to anyone that actually is a mathematician and they would say go from left to right.

>pic related

is comparing both, I love how I am able to screen capture my ti-83 CE python calculator.

Anyways, as you can see there is the first example doing simple division. Second one is treading it like a fraction.

First we have to simply the denominator which results to 6, then simplying the fraction gives us one.

people really arguing if its 1 or 9 on facebook and suddenly everyone thinks they're an expert in math, lol bitch please you can't even find x.


>>2540447
I bought these a while back, and I didn't realize I could probably use it as a touch screen for my printers.
>https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804430946996.html

>>2542532
>and that's why you can get either answer
>talk to anyone that actually is a mathematician and they would say go from left to right
These things mean the opposite of each other, anon.

>Anyways, as you can see there is the first example doing simple division. Second one is treading it like a fraction.
Because it correctly parses order of operations.

>>2542534
>Because it correctly parses order of operations.

Did you not see my point? I am showing how mass produced calculators either use one or the other to interpret the problem, and why there is two different answers

>one calculator just does simple division

>while another calculator will just treat it like a fraction

>hurr hurr people are confused and arguing on facebook on whose right.

>>2540089
gona get myself a 3d printer but I have no tools at my new place.
what else do I NEED for printing and cleaning up?

>>2542545
I would pass on the hot air gun, unless you need it for something else. See if you can find jewler's files as opposed to just three large ones. Avoid diamond files for plastics.

Kinda sad I can't find a sample pack of different filament colours from known brands on amazon UK. I want to try out some funky colours without spending a fortune on 1KG spools

>>2542545
In that price range those digital callipers probably suck. Either spend more or get some normal ones and eyeball it

>>2542532
It could also be interpreted as 6/2 * (1+2).
The problem is whether you apply the multiplication or the parenthesis rule to the 2(1+2) segment. Because any work done with that would be multiplication, you treat it as such and thus work left to right.

Any mathematician will tell you it's an intentionally poorly written problem, though.

>>2542546
noted
>>2542550
are the analogue ones better in that price range?
the reviews claim that this one is unusually good for it's price so I might just take the chance

>>2542541
>and why there is two different answers
...when the expression is written differently. 6/2(1+2) is not the same as 6/(2(1+2)). The screenshot you showed demonstrates that the calculator is parsing them correctly according to the standard order of operations.

>>2542562
In my experience inexpensive digital calipers are good enough for 3D printing purposes, but they supposedly run the batteries down faster than nice ones.

Any chance that klipper is glow-ware?
The name sure is suspicious.

>The Clipper chip was a chipset that was developed and promoted by the United States National Security Agency[1] (NSA) as an encryption device that secured "voice and data messages"[2] with a built-in backdoor that was intended to "allow Federal, State, and local law enforcement officials the ability to decode intercepted voice and data transmissions.

>>2542563
Oh my fucking god dude thats what I am trying to fucking say!


> 6/2(1+2) is not the same as 6/(2(1+2))

no shit sherlock! I am trying to get through your dumbass head how calculators by default will either interpret the expression as

>6/2(1+2)

ORRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

>6/(2(1+1))

Even if you say they are different tough shit the manufacturer has it by default to interpret the expression one way or another, but you're too dumb to understand that I am demonstrating how one calculator would interpret as 6/2(1+2) or 6/(2(1+1)) by default.

I am literally repeating myself in this one comment because you're so dense.

>>2542562
I also assumed you already have a multibit screwdriver. Beyond what you've got, I wouldn't worry too much about other things and get them as needed. Depends entirely on what you want to print. You might want to pick yourself up some assorted fasteners (m3 assortments seem to be a favorite), some cyanoacrylate glue(superglue). Also, the feeler gauges are nice to have but completely unnecessary. paper works just fine, then if any issues arise you can still babystep your first layer, which you might have to do anyways even using feeler gauges.
>>2542562
Don't worry too much about the calipers. Neiko is the go-to for cheap ~$20USD units in the US, but for our purposes the ones you're looking at can't be too bad. just take measurements twice/don't move the slider too fast. At worst the batteries it comes with will run down rather quickly over the span of a few months. After that get some decent cells in there and you'll be just fine. For what it's worth, the black calipers are like $10 USD. In this hobby 0.1mm is more than good enough.

>>2542576
>how calculators by default will either interpret the expression as
And the example you gave has the calculator interpreting it CORRECTLY according to the CORRECT order of operations, and then CORRECTLY interpreting a DIFFERENT expression to produce a DIFFERENT result while also following the CORRECT order of operations.

>Even if you say they are different tough shit the manufacturer has it by default to interpret the expression one way or another
You only demonstrated the calculator following correct order of operations there. Do you know of any calculator that actually parses it incorrectly? Because you haven't done that.

>>2542583
We should just implement polish notation and be done with it.

>>2542093
is that a layer shift?
Wasn't this printer supposed to be perfect out of the box?

>>2542590
I already said that here >>2542532

but anon here >>2542583
can't understand that when someone uses division some calculators will interpret differently. Literally written the same on these calculators in pic related and given two different answers.

So anon tell me do you understand now?? Written exactly the same in the picture, and yet one is being interpreted as

>6/2(1+2)

and the other

>6/(2(1+2))

Do you see now? I can't wait for your response to bullshit your way out of this one. Its obvious, Im expecting it.

>>2542606
>So anon tell me do you understand now??
I understood the whole time. I was pointing out that your "example" didn't show what it was supposed to.

>Do you see now?
Yes, that's an actual example that illustrates your point. If you think this conflicts with anything I've been saying, perhaps try reading what I actually wrote instead of what you imagine I meant. That's a rather common occurrence, I find.

>>2542616
>three people get into an argument all three in agreement.
par for the course for this place.

>>2542616
lmao Im such a dipshit, sorry anon, my bad.

>>2542562
the way digital calipers are constructed they really can't be all that bad, accuracy wise. unless the parts are physically bent or something. it's like a magnetic "zigzag" along the metal strip and a little probe picks up the magnetic field as it moves across. there's not really a way to fuck it up.

>>2542532
>I didn't realize I could probably use it as a touch screen for my printers.
Doooo iiiiiit, you only need some jumper wires to give it a try.

>>2542630
oh I wanted to ask, is that pcb drawing available online where I could go to jlcpcb to have one made?

>>2542482
How you can have the experience you claim to have yet in any way struggle with an Ender 3 and break it repeatedly just baffles me, and I'm guessing it baffles you a bit as well given your experience.

If you're used to industrial automation, you might be more comfortable with the type of printer you'd actually encounter in your environment.
I run a 5 axis DMS Hybrid at work with a pellet extruder and another that spits aluminum at a rate of 3lbs/hr, I bet you'd enjoy it, it actually "just works" unlike a Prusa or any of their Chinese counterparts.
Just don't fall for the Prusa meme, if you think the Ender 3 is bad you'll despise the fucking joke of an overpriced 10 year old shitbox printer that is a Prusa.

>>2542633
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/q9AZA6jm
You can directly order it from Oshpark through that link, or hit Download and it'll give you the zipped Gerber files.
If you intend to use it, keep your eye on the schematic and verify the pinout of your EXP1 and EXP2 connectors.
The manufacturers are NOT consistent about them, they like to rotate or mirror them because reasons.

>>2542656
if I order it do you get a cut as well or no?

>>2542657
No nothin' like that, it's just an easy way to share PCBs.

>>2542562
digital are fine. you're using a mechanical hot glue gun to squirt weed trimmer on a pane of glass. you're not a machinist. mine were $10 on amazon.

you also need side cutters a pallet knife.

>>2542218
Thanks. Bought Ender 3 v2 Neo.

Stupid Trudeau isn't going to stop me from having extended rifle magazines.

>>2542672
the Neo V2 doesn't really seem worth it, there isn't really a big difference for the price

>>2542602
"it just werks"

it's been a struggle. you'd think they'd have default profiles that worked for example. here's the final. not a layer shift but more like an elephant's foot where the floor stopped and the wall started.

>>2542675
I like your design with the interior figures, looks good.

>>2542673
Metal extruder and self leveler. Only $40 difference, I earn good money so it's not a lot.

>>2542675
I've been eyeing the x1 carbon for fancier materials, but if it doesn't work properly out of the box and with software that locked down I'm starting to get concerned.

>>2542700
my experience has been less than ideal, but I still think it's a great machine and has lots of potential. my plan is to go full ASA production. I feel like there's an instagram effect where the filtered reviews make things seems more perfect than they actually are. otoh I could have bought 5 Geeetech A10M for the same price and be making money shitting out rainbow filament trash rn, so there's that.

>>2542550
on a process where 0.05mm tolerance is difficult and time consuming and 0.01 is a pipe dream, ±0.005 accuracy will make absolutely no difference whatsoever

>>2542708
I had a quidi x1 carbon, but it would've needed considerable modding to print straight nylon reliably so i returned after a few weeks.
My nylon machine, a cr10 in a heavily insulated enclosure is fantastic for nylon, but I keep telling myself it's not going to last forever, even though it's been in the 50C enclosure for the better part of three years now without issue.
i've never even sold anything, wouldn't know where to start printing shit to sell. just a hobby that i don't mind dropping a grand or two on.

>>2542685
The regular neo the same full metal hotend and the same levelling
I was originally going to buy a Neo V2 as well until I realised the only difference is the V2 is more assemled and has a spring steel bed. I wanted a glass bed too so I went for the cheaper Neo

I need to pick up a new hotend, whole thing.
I'm not worried about needing to adapt and modify shit, it really doesn't matter what it's made for or intended to fit, I'll work with it.
"All Metal" 300C+ with a decent melt-zone, thinking about Creality Spider 3.0, though I'd rather a cheaper option if I'm buying chinkshit.
I don't want to pay a premium price for Chinese premium quality.
I like the Revo, and the $85 price is high but not unmanageable, but another $40/ea for decent nozzles that are sometimes in stock, no thanks.
Am I wasting my time, should I just grab a real V6 for $50? There are inexpensive options to push the flowrate higher, hell I can do what that jewtuber did and stick a brass nut on a Volcano nozzle.

Who's been playing around with hotends lately, who has strong autistic opinions to shove down my throat?
I haven't actually bought a new one since 2019.