/diy/ - Do It Yourself

bad news boys

Finally got my first printer, a Sovol SV01. The benchy that came on the card printed fine but I've run into two issues with my first project.

On the left we have the failure that caused me to cancel the print, a bunch of other pieces were doing okay until this one. I noticed it was either over printing (going over the same area) or maybe over extruding in the top left corner and the diagonals weren't 45° like the other pieces, until it got to the opposite corner. My assumption would be that it hit the limit of the bed travel, still extruding but not moving up and losing timing causing the wonky diagonals. However I do have my printer model set in the slicer (Cura) and made sure not to place any parts outside the build plate, is the software just not accurate?

Secondly on the right I have all these gaps on the first layer, perhaps not an issue for the finished parts but I have concerns about it not sticking to the bed. I'm not sure if it's the extrusion stopping and starting too early and late when it changes direction (if it does that) causing the gaps in the corners and around the circle and perhaps not extruding enough material in general making even the straight lines rather thin. I'm don't really know what settings I should be looking at.

>>2514219
Looks under extruded, and possibly some other problems that can hide in that problem too. When you ask for 100mm of filament through your printer's display, do you get exactly 100mm? 99% of printing fuckups can be solved with the technique here: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ although you may have to get a bit creative adapting some of the concepts to every printer, and some of the more high performance stuff like Input Shaping just ain't happening until you switch to Klipper.
Anyways, welcome to 3d printing, that's a nice and fucked up thing you've made!

I am >>2513891
Looked to see if wires are plugged in, they are. The cables are split to each side from the mobo. I cannot run it to level or to home all as the L Z axis motor does not turn at all unless I tell it to in the menu.

>>2514206
oh no
is your record ruined

First 10+ hour print, going to start it tomorrow morning. It's an enclosure for a soldering reflow plate, split in two halves. For an enclosure box like this, does anyone have a recommended number of walls or infill % or whatever? Also what kind of effects on print quality can I expect by cranking up the speed on the printer itself from the 100% baseline?

Also I think I'll add a feature to make it easier to pry off the bed, like a bevel around the edge.

t. E3V2 user

>>2514305
Full model

>>2514305
Uh, is that PLA?

>>2514305
>Also what kind of effects on print quality can I expect by cranking up the speed on the printer itself from the 100% baseline?
You can expect anything from "looks great" to "absolute dogshit". For me, upgrading the extruder made the biggest difference in terms of allowing large speed increases without degradation of the print quality.

As for wall infill, try to slice it with a couple of different numbers and see how large of an effect on print time you will expect. If it's only 20 minutes extra on a 10 hour long print to go with substantially higher wall infill, then consider it.

>>2514305
from my understanding, number of walls provides the best strength for the least amount of time, compared to infill. infill is still important, but if you spend an hour on an extra wall, vs an hour getting a few more percent of infill, the hour spent on walls would provide more functional strength. to a point, obviously a hollow part with 10 walls and nothing inside is probably not as good as 8 walls at 10% infill but i dunno.
if you know your volumetric flowrate, you could increase your speed without much consequence, so long as you stay under the max flowrate, and so long as it doesn't shake itself apart.

>>2514332
Yes.

>>2514339
>upgrading the extruder made the biggest difference in terms of allowing large speed increases without degradation of the print quality.
I do plan on upgrading, though I've little knowledge of what's good. All-metal I guess?

>>2514360
From what I understand, having strong layers with a sufficiently rigid but wide separator (e.g. aluminium sheet with balsa between) gives good strength. So instead of 6-thick walls, two 2-thick walls with 8 walls-thickness worth of infill might be stronger AND take less time, at the expense of being bulkier. I haven't tweaked any of that yet, but it's probably a good idea to make a testing setup for that with these strain gauges I bought. At the moment my enclosure has 5mm walls, made of 3-thick walls on either side (1-1.5mm idk) and 15% infill between (4-3mm worth), which may be decent. I can probably drop that to 2 walls, but that might not be strong enough.

Filling in unused room with infill instead of building a traditional thin-walled box may make for much a stronger part, I may look deeper into how much room I ACTUALLY need. I've already got the PCB manufactured, but chances are it needs bodge fixes so I'd like to leave at least some room.

>if you know your volumetric flowrate
I'll look into that. I've got a dual-gear extruder (lower gearing and more grip) so I imagine it's better than stock. Haven't seen any vibration issues yet. Guess I should get benchmarking.

>>2514367
>with a sufficiently rigid but wide separator
Depends on the loading configuration and failure mode involved. The separator generally needs good shear and decent compressive strength, so not all infill patterns are equal. Infill also affects how likely the part is to distort during printing. A stiff infill pattern that can't flex without buckling (e.g. rectilinear, cubic, or others with solid planar structures) tends to build up residual stress that can pull the edges of large parts up (100% rectilinear and 100% perimeter are the worst for this). Patterns with some flex like gyroid can avoid that, but they're not quite as efficient at handling static loads (due to the flexibility) though they do handle impacts better (due to the flexibility). I usually use gyroid for large thin walls that I want to be relatively isotropic.

Another issue with PLA and soldering is heat. PLA turns to wet noddle at 50-some C unless annealed. Annealed, its the most heat-resistant common printing material, but that's hard to do without distortion. If I were to make that part myself for that application, I would either use polycarbonate (high natural heat tolerance) or annealed Volcano PLA (PLA formulated to anneal with minimal distortion).

Regarding max volumetric flowrate, how much plastic your extruder can shove through per second isn't actually the practical max, since print quality severely declines before that. I tune max volumetric settings by printing a thin wall in vase mode with increasing speed as it goes up (I do something similar with tweaked settings to determine max movement speed). That makes it easy to see the highest speed with acceptable print quality, which may be well below the true max volumetric rate. Note that this also depends strongly on temperature and nozzle in addition to material, so you may need multiple runs to cover your normal parameters.

I have a question for the Ender 3 haters: When is an Ender 3 not an Ender 3 anymore?

Over the past few years I've progressively upgraded my machine as parts wore out and my needs changed. I think the only original parts I have left are the extrusions, power supply and stepper motors +1 for dual Z screws.

Having lots of trouble with PETG. Stringing is whatever, I can dial that in better, but the blobs and issues on the build surface side are ridiculous. It seems like my layers don't even adhere to eachother all that well either, I've had very thin walls just outright separate.

>>2514392
>Stringing is whatever, I can dial that in better
Filament is wet. Dry it, and most of those issues should go away. 65C for at least 4 hours. Maybe longer considering that starting point.

>It seems like my layers don't even adhere to eachother all that well either
What's your printing temperature? First layer doesn't look very squished, so Z offset may be a bit high, but cool nozzle temp could affect that too. It could also cause poor layer fusion and underexrusion.

>>2514391
The second you begin fixing someone else's problems, the second it's no longer what they sold you. Which is a machine that ""works""

>>2514391
>When is an Ender 3 not an Ender 3 anymore?
When you void the warranty.

>>2514392
I get this with shitty cheapo PETG filament. Increase print temperature as much as you can without burning the filament, ~220C. For the bed adhesion, depends on the bed, I don't have huge issues with my heated PEI bed, if anything's not sticking, it's usually oil from my fingers on the surface, or poor leveling.

>>2514462
>~220C
Different anon here. I usually print PETG at 250-260 C.

>>2514396
>>2514462
Skeptical that it's wet since I opened it recently, but I guess I have nothing to lose by drying it anyways. I print at 240C currently, I could try bumping it up to 250-260 as per the other anon. Bed adhesion as a whole isn't really a problem since i clean my bed after every use and run it fairly hot, inter-layer adhesion seems to be, but only on really thin walls. My main issues with the build surface I guess are more retraction related? See the artifacts around the curves. Z offset is a weird one for me, paper method doesn't really seem to be cutting it so I'll just start adjusting it finely and see how that goes.

>>2514483
>Skeptical that it's wet since I opened it recently
PETG can pick up enough moisture from the air to make a difference in a few hours. And some can be wet right from a sealed package. The excessive ooze in the image suggests a lot of water in the filament that's pushing plastic out of the melt zone in travel moves.

>>2514486
fucked up if true. thanks

>>2514392
black PETG, ABS and PLA all print like this for me. Even when using my 3d pen black PLA just comes out like some kind of tar/licorice. I have black and white PETG bought as a combo deal, packaged together, never apart and the black is gooey af and the white is crisp and nice at the same settings.

>>2513743
>>>2513713 (You)
>I figure the guy who originally made the model just took results from people's layer height tests for tensile strength, because something around 0.15mm layer height is often where tensile strength begins to fall off.
>there's not a ton of information from people bending sheet steel with PLA dies/jigs.
>but i think i'm wrong about printing it vertically (with the compressive force normal to the bed) because the punch will push outwards on the inside of the cup and it'll shear the thin edges of the die.
>intuitively though it seems like if i print in the vertical orientation like in
>>>2513685
>it makes sense to me that i could up the layer height without consequence, because there's fucking zero tensile stress affecting layer adhesion. the only concern is splitting between the layers from compression.
The more surface area between layers the stronger the adhesion. And just in general parts are usually tougher when printed in thicker layers. The interlayer bonding is the weak point. I'm not sure how the designer came to the conclusion that smaller layers is stronger. More layers, more potential points of failure

>>2514519
>I'm not sure how the designer came to the conclusion that smaller layers is stronger.
Empirical data as from e.g. CNC Kitchen.

>More layers, more potential points of failure
Theoretically, the relevant parameter is the aspect ratio of the extruded plastic line, since that's what (mostly) determines the bonded surface area between layers. You can increase extrusion width to a point to increase that effectively, but you can also lower layer height to a point too. 3:1 width to height seems about the best for layer bonding outside special setups like the settings developed to produce transparent prints (which seems to produce perfect layer bonding as an unintended result).

>>2514284
10 print streak

>>2514551
is okay
you probably just need to clean the bed because all that success grease keeps piling up
it happen

how do I lube
is there such thing as too much lube

>print fails on the very left side of the bed every time

WHAT THE FUCKKKK

>>2514519
>>2514527
thinner layers have better adhesion, with diminishing returns.
this is distinct from thinner EXTRUSION WIDTH or nozzle width. thicker lines are stronger than thinner lines.

source:
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/323878149

>>2514594
the bigger the gob the better the job

>>2514594
You've used too much when the HOA complains. But you can get by with just a tiny amount.

>>2514594
If you got metal rubbing against metal
smother that shit
yeah you can cake it up and it'll look like ass
but it'll glide like fucking butter

>>2514198
>you had one job

>>2514551
fug, I should never stop printing. failures usually come in batches right after I've focused on something else for a few days.

where do you buy stuff like nozzles from?
does it matter if i buy one from aliexpress, or some dropshipper on amazon, or from some particular website?
or is it all pretty much the same identical shit from the same couple of factories? i'm wanting to get a 0.6 nozzle for my volcano block, and i can pay all sorts of different amounts of money for the "same thing"

>>2514508
I think the how dark the filament is affects how well it absorbs heat from the hot end. Try taking the temp down 5 degrees with dark filament if you are having this problem.

>>2514633
i imagine it's probably due to the dye if anything. it takes a lot of carbon black to get a rich black color, compared to other colors. maybe on the order of a few percent, depending on how rich the color is.
it could be a thermal thing, but that's mostly a photon interaction type thing. dark pigments are opaque to more types of light (not just visible) so the light is absorbed by the pigment and the heat is transferred out into the material.
but, the heating in a nozzle is almost all conduction. it's the plastic in direct contact with the metal around it, and there you're limited by the thermal conductivity of the plastic. i don't think the amount of pigment would be significant enough to change the thermal conductivity of the plastic much.
i think (if there is any effect at all, and it's not imagined) the reason why black filament would print differently is due to physical properties of the material because of how much pigment has to be used. maybe more water can be absorbed by filament with more carbon black in it. it's probably to do with water. it's usually water when stringing happens.

>finds a fully functional ender 3 pro at the dumpster
>only thing wrong is the power supply cover is broken and the bed needed to be leveled
>decide to test it out
>adhesion issues ensue (evident by gluestick residue from previous owner)
>decides to test print on upside down packing tape, stuck down with more tape
>prints fine, but the tape needs to have tension to prevent excessive wobble for higher parts
nice, but now the parts are free to warp even worse, would try a different filament, but it only came with some white ABS that looks rather old...
also, what do (you) for good first layer adhesion?

>>2514630
>where do you buy stuff like nozzles from?
Internet.

>or is it all pretty much the same identical shit from the same couple of factories?
For standard brass nozzles, more or less. There's variation in fit, finish, and internal geometry which presumably makes some difference, but it's not large. But there's more to nozzles than brass and the basic shape. There are more complex geometries and different materials available for different purposes, and getting quality there can make a significant difference in performance. A CHT nozzle, for example, can significantly improve volumetric flow without any other changes to the setup. A ruby / diamond / tungsten carbide nozzle is more or less impervious to wear from abrasive materials like carbon fiber that eat brass nozzles like popcorn. Some nozzles combine a tungsten carbide structure with high flow internal geometry to get both attributes. So, what do you want to do with your volcano block?

>>2514665
You could start by getting a PEI build plate. It's a free printer, who cares if you throw $30 at it to have it work better?

>>2514724
the 'stock' glass build plate seems to be permanently affixed, or does the new one clip on?

>>2514727
>E3Pro
>the 'stock' glass build plate seems to be permanently affixed
Pros came with the magnetic mat as default, the glass bed was supposed to be an upgrade.
I'm betting they just slapped the glass on top of the magnetic sticker and ran it at high temp. End result is the sticker binds to the glass. It is removable if you're careful, but chances are the glass will come off with pieces of sticker and you'll be forced to get rid of it.

>>2514630
For brass nozzles most of them are the same. Brass is really easy to machine so even the chinks get it right.
I have a volcano block on my Ender 3, bought it from aliexpress, works very well. Same goes with the nozzles, I have all from 0.4 up to 1.2, all work great. Up until 0.8 they're quite cheap but the 1.0 and 1.2 nozzles were quite a bit pricier.

>>2514727
I'm not super familiar with the Ender, but if you can figure out how to remove the glass from the metal part, then you just apply a magnetic rubber layer to the metal and then the steel flex plate sticks to that.
Or, you can just scrub the glass with dish soap and scotchbrite to remove whatever the old owner put on there, then wipe it with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel to remove any soap residue, and either print on that directly, or use some sort of adhesion promoter like hairspray or one of the commercially available specialty bed adhesion promoters. There is a chance that the old owner used ABS slurry though (since it had a roll of ABS with it), in which case you will need acetone to remove it.

Shit i just leant against the unsupported side of the X-gantry while trying to listen for vibrations and pushed my print out of whack somewhat. I think it's mostly better now that I pushed it back, but I think I'd want to go for a dual-Z kit, since as the gantry goes up during printing this side will always be lagging below a bit. But levelling the bed manually is done after the gantry was driven down, so the backlash will be in the opposite direction. I'd like to remove most of this backlash because non-planar printing looks like some cool stuff.

What are these Ender 3 dual-Z kits like? Looks like some kits add a second stepper (not sure if there's another driver on the mainboard for it) while other kits just go by belt. If the belt wheels don't add significant backlash I guess it would be a simpler option, but it would also maybe get in the way of filament holder. Thoughts?
I've got a V2.

So its a bit cold where i live and there are air drafts or whatever the fuck that ruin my prints. What do ? Also do i need to get a filament drier ? I added a humidity sensor to the place where i print and it stays around 50% all the time.

why did i buy an ender 3

>>2514842
it was only $99

How do I report my printer to the ADL? It just made a threatening and racist knot in the purge spew. Some nigger might feel threatened if he saw that!

>>2514838
>What do ?
Enclose the printer.

>Also do i need to get a filament drier ?
Maybe. Are you running into trouble? Different materials are more tolerant of water than others. PLA doesn't have much trouble, PETG gets blobby and stringy, nylon turns into a foamy mess.

>>2514842
I'll tell you.
The "community support"
"Oh if my printer breaks someone out there will likely have the same issue"
And no one can fix it without ordering new parts after new parts which creates new problems and the cycle continues.

What is the point of doing temperature towers if they print like this?

Any tips on printing TPU with an Ender 3 with the stock bowden extruer?

>>2514891
Yeah try inserting 4 fingers from each hand inside your ass then pulling with all your might

>>2514895
When did you start having these gay thoughts? Are you in the closet?

>>2514890
See how it gets less stringy as it goes up? Use that knowledge to help pick a temperature for other prints.

>>2514891
https://youtu.be/l0efKKP79y4
Just watched this yesterday.

>>2514898
So it is telling me I wasted my time and just use the standard 205 for cura, prusaslicer, and every other slicer default for pla.

>>2514900
There's a reason it's the standard setting. Temperature towers are for tuning materials that you think might differ from standard, or that you want to check to be sure. Or if you want to optimize parameters differently than the the "standard" setting. I usually run PLA at 230-240 for improved flow rate and layer bonding, at least for utilitarian prints. I tune in parameters differently for aesthetic prints, and things like silk PLA can be finicky and also vary by brand/color.

i do a lot of piracy, so either is fine, but what is the best CAD tool to learn on?
i know solidworks is most prevalent in industry, so would that be better to pick up? i imagine it is a more powerful tool.

>>2514896

What is it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnkXoB3b2W8

>>2514916
I find solidworks pretty easy to navigate. Lots of youtube videos out there so I just jam in what I wanna do and then "solidworks" and it's pretty good at finding me a few examples.
I don't do this profesionally. I just use the $20 loicense that cleverbridge gives you if you sign up (for free) for Titans of CNC.

>>2514925
flight path looks like shite

>>2514925
>How to get a knock from the feds while still not being able to do anything useful

>>2514916
Just use Fusion 360. It is free for hobbyist use, no piracy needed. They bury their 'free use' page on the website, but it is still there. The shit they limit in-program is not useful for home printing anyways.

>>2514926
>>2514944
i don't care about pirating it. i can put it on a virtual machine or on an offlined laptop. it's just whether fusion360 is better in some way than solidworks.
almost everything i read about it says how fusion360 is not as good, but it's fine for what you need it for.
and to me that seems like learning microsoft paint instead of photoshop. yeah you can get the job done in paint, but it's really a waste to "learn paint" if you can learn photoshop.

>>2514978
My opinion may be a little biased as I use Solidworks professionally, but I think that once you get past setting up good toolbars or at least knowing where to find shit, Solidworks is much more capable.
That said though, if you're just doing basic designs with a few features for the more common printed kind of junk or maybe basic fixturing you prolly wont see much difference.
If you're getting into stuff like FEA of your parts, solidwork's setup is straightforward and I'd imagine the fusion 360 free licenses dont have access to that so pirating SW would be the 'better' option (I have no idea how easily the solidworks expansion stuff works on pirated setups though)

I finally found why my ABL was so shit. I'm using an inductive sensor on a mount I designed, but the mount is too thin and the cable was tugging on it while probing, bending it ever so slightly and that was fucking up the mesh. I added a ziptie as a strain relief and that fixed it. Hope you guys are not as retarded as me.

Here's my reflow plate enclosure's bottom half, with mostly assembled PCB. I hadn't actually thought to add a flange to the clamshell to make the sides actually positively slot into one another when I sliced this, so the other half will just have some internally overlapping pieces. With 0.1mm of gap, hope that's enough, I'll measure the dimensions on this current print to see what I'll need to change. Evidently it's printing a tad bulgy since my PCB spacers/standoffs aren't fitting in the hexagonal holes I printed for them. Some filing or heat-setting required I guess.

Ignore the z ripple low down.

>>2515078
>Hope you guys are not as retarded as me.
Do you know where you are, retard?

>>2515007
i might just give one a go for a month or so, then force myself to try the other one for a month or so and see what feels better to use.
solidworks will let you trial the full version anyway for 30 days, so i can see if any bells or whistles are missing from a cracked version.
there's a lot of hot shit in there. stuff like stress modeling is really interesting and would be good to understand for structural prints.
i get the feeling that if i get comfortable with solidworks, that's the best option, simply because of how prevalent it is. learning the nuances would be more useful.
using the photoshop and paint analogy, i have microsoft word installed but i still use a lot of notepad documents just because of how fucking quick it is to type up a document. it's nowhere near as powerful, but it's fast and easy for what i need it to do.

ender3-fag here (v1)
the noise, constant bed leveling, failed prints, and ugly layer lines are making my experience less than ideal
also the table I have is too weak for the jerky movement so my layers come out mildly rough on successful prints

would I be better off taking the SLApill with an elegoo mars?
Is resin really as messy and caustic as people say?

>>2515094
Put ith in the floor or carpet. Install auto level, auto home, set z offset, auto home again, then level bed corners. Until they match center height, then auto home one more time, then auto level bed. Done. Also check all your stepper vrefs they're probably down at 0.6 like mine were

>>2515094
print custom cooling ducts for psu and hot end to use silent fans. silent stepper board might help, not actually sure what's noisy on the existing one, if it's just coil whine then replacing inductors may be doable.
also swap to a PEI sheet bed, and get an inductive level sensor. dual-z may help with layer lines.

if you're not upgrading an ender 3 you're doing it wrong.

>>2515078
>Hope you guys are not as retarded as me.
Gooble gobble.

>>2515081
>Evidently it's printing a tad bulgy
FDM prints usually are. Each layer bulges out a bit rather than assuming an ideal flat side. Design parts that mesh together with ~.1-.2mm of clearance (which depends on various factors - test with your setup) so they actually fit.

>>2515094
>would I be better off taking the SLApill with an elegoo mars?
Different printing technologies are suited to different things. What do you plant to do with it? And while resin is messy, it's manageable with care. The hazard isn't chemical burns, but immune sensitization, which can cause an allergic reaction after sufficient exposure on future exposures.

is it a good idea to jump from an ender 3 original to a bambu p1p, eventually?
would i be missing out on anything in-between?
i really just want my prints to come out clean and at a decent speed without a lot of fiddling because i just don't have the time or patience to mess around trying to turn a printer into pic related to get good prints

>>2515113
>what do you plan to do
detailed miniatures and probably some form fitting pieces
Also what do I actually need to do for resin? Set up a whole area for IPA washing/UV curing?
How much will I end up spending on resin and accessories comparatively?

>>2515119
>detailed miniatures
Resin is way better than FDM for this.

>and probably some form fitting pieces
What size/detail are you talking about? Do they need to be durable enough to be worn? FDM is better for larger and more durable parts, and the material is usually cheaper, but it takes more post-processing to produce a smooth surface ready for final painting.

>Also what do I actually need to do for resin?
Get an actual resin printer and some resin (of whatever varieties suit your uses). Spare resin vats so you aren't unloading and cleaning them with every resin switch. A fumetight place to store those resin vats. A workplace away from sunlight with good ventilation. Gallon-scale IPA and a suitable container for washing, or a dedicated washing station. A UV light source or dedicated curing station (if you get a station, get a UV flashlight too for curing spilled resin on paper towels so it doesn't offgas from the trash bin). Rubber gloves, paper towels, sharp putty knife for removing prints, at least one spare memory card.

>How much will I end up spending on resin and accessories comparatively?
Different resins formulated for different purposes cost different amounts. Around $15/liter for cheapo ones to $75 for high performance moulding resin that can be used for things like vulcanizing rubber products, to several times that for specialty things like ceramic or metal impregnated resin intended to produce sintered parts. Good structural resins for utilitarian purposes may be in the neighborhood of $40-50 per liter, while decent modeling resins may be around half that. IPA is somewhat expensive in the amounts used for cleaning, but it's not awful if purchased in bulk. UV lights can be pretty cheap, so you don't HAVE to spend much on accessories. However, there is a tradeoff between cost and hassle. Making do with very basic cleaning and curing supplies is notoriously bothersome, while something like a Prusa CW1 makes it a breeze. The CW1 is $750, however.

>>2515125
>>and probably some form fitting pieces
Addendum to this: FDM does have the option of silk filaments, which can do a decent impression of metal as-printed. So far as I know, there isn't a comparable option for resin. On the other hand, it's a lot easier to get clear resin prints than with FDM if you want transparency.

>>2515094
r34 on pic

>>2515094
If you want to make minatures or brittle aesthetic things, sure.
But you got a shitty FDM printer that needs tons of fixes to perform well. It's okay. It's marketing and reddit that got to you.
Ender 3d printers are if you want a 3d printer as a project.
A 3d printer that you don't have to touch to make work is a tool you use in your projects
Good printers stay good too. I've got a 6 year old makergear m2 I'm still spitting out things with. In that time the only mods I've made to it is a flex bed and an OEM cooling upgrade.
The only time I have to re-level is when I change my nozzles, and I only have to adjust my Z-height.

The Sovol SV06 looks to be a good budget one if you can make sure you got a good one. Cheap Chinese stuff can be good, but your particular printer might not be.

>printer happily working
>suddenly stops
>check octoprint
>Reported error: Move exceeds maximum extrusion (0.724mm^2 vs 0.640mm^2)
Greetings from Kazakhstan
I hate Klipper so much it's unreal

>>2515199
>Sovol SV06
if it ends up actually being good it'll be impressive, because it basically crushes the prusa across the board. if they pull it off i imagine it will pave the way for a lot of prusa clones and dropping the price even further, like what happened with the ender 3 and its clones.

>>2515201
why can't they invent program that just works

>>2515206
Here's hoping. I almost bought one instead of a bambu x1. It's just a really nice value proposition provided it's reliable, but one guy that's had one for 6 months is not a great sample size.
But bambu is at least trying to shake things up by making voron/klipper more widespread and viable to copy.

>>2515208
It's not that it doesn't work but it's loaded with a whole bunch of customizable parameters that flat out don't exist in the provided example configs. So they default to some magic numbers that ultimately end up cucking you sooner or later.

Here's the entry from the config reference guide:
>Maximum area (in mm^2) of an extrusion cross section (eg, extrusion width multiplied by layer height). This setting prevents excessive amounts of extrusion during relatively small XY moves. If a move requests an extrusion rate that would exceed this value it will cause an error to be returned. The default is: 4.0 * nozzle_diameter^2

So it's calculated smartly, with the exception of expecting the user to change the config manually every time they swap a nozzle.
This style of "good under the hood, trash user experience" absolutely reeks of linux dev hands.

>>2514198
Favorite salsa for cheap PLA?

>>2515245
Whatever company is having a 10 rolls for $100 deal.
https://fremover.net/
It feels like shit and has printed mostly fine. Mine has bends in the filament which is broken at the extruder gear and then slid under the gear so would stop extruding.
Tightened up my extruder assembly haven't had that issue since though.

>>2515248
Wow, I've been paying $20+. Thanks

>>2515250
This is cheap stuff though and I've only hit one roll. No telling what's wrong with the other 9.
I had buyer's remorse when I touched it because support with that company is non-existant.
But it's printing okay.
operating work currently printing okay.
But I just wanted to print some not-important stuff with it and be able to chew through stuff.

Are there any filters that can remove microplastic particles? P100 filters maybe?

trashpicked ender 3 pro anon here, i set up a camera to monitor printing, rather than having to run in and out every 15 minutes to check on the prin
t>>2514731
magnetic stuff was fine after i got it removed, it was just stuck down to the edges , bit of prying with a blunt pry tool broke the seal and lifted right off, will inquire about the better mat, as some of the shiny top layer? came off during cleaning with ipa

>>2515263
Yes. Electrostatic filters of various grades will remove varying amounts, with P100 removing nearly all. They don't remove fumes, however, unless they include a chemical filter as well.

>>2515265
is your camera trash-picked too?

>>2515265
>some of the shiny top layer? came off during cleaning with ipa
That's not a problem because you're not supposed to print on it. It's just a rubbery magnet.
The actual stock build surface looks like linkrel and goes on top.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004699074636.html
Now instead of this build surface you can use any steel backed print surface and the rubbery magnet will keep it there.

>>2514924
that's a 3d printer. FDM one even. Most probably MakerGear.
It's no different than an ordinary fmd printer, except it has the Y axis mounted on the Z axis.

>>2515250
>>2515254
Cheap shit did it again.
So anything that's critical to get printed successfully.... I wouldn't trust. I fiddeled with retraction and turned up the heat in case it was having trouble but the nozzle was already at 210.

>>2515201
Go into your printer.cfg, and set max-extrude-cross-section to 5. As far as I can tell, this is some weird holdover form a previous version or something, and doesn't really do anything but fuck your shit up, so "5" turns it off essentially.

>>2515349
>>2515201
*max_extrude_cross_section (it's in the extruder section)

>>2514198
Reposting cause I didnt see the new thread sign, why are there two values in the right side of the settings? All the help videos only have one set of values.

I have resin arriving later, first SLA print will be tonight

>>2515291
no, some shiny rubbery layer came off of the glass plate, leaving a matt black textured pattern behind
>>2515287
yes, doesn't help that the signal goes about 100 feet and through a window

>>2515349
Already did that, I set it to 1.2 since I managed to print fine with 0.64 even when running a 1.2mm nozzle.
Still, I wish these weren't ghost settings, all such params should be included in the config templates.

>>2515363
>some shiny rubbery layer came off of the glass plate
Likely it was coated with glue, hairspray or something like that to improve adhesion. The matte coating doesn't come off without pieces of glass.

>>2515388
ah ok

>>2514842
You're a poorfag just like me

I would mention about chimera all metal heat break as a budget recommendation for ender 3/5 type hotends, but never actually used one. Decided to keep my ender 3, and do some mods

> skr mini e3 v2
> meanwell power supply
> sherpa mini
> Orange Pi Zero 2 with klipper

Normally I limit the amount of printed mods, but since Ender 3 isn't my main printer, I ended up trying some stuff.

to make long story short the stock ender 3 cooling sucks and I kept getting heat creep, and my dumbass kept forgetting to do a proper hottight as well.

I don't normally print cooling systems, but
>minionD
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4819097

uses stock hardware so I figured why the hell not, since it directs the air at the heatsink better my heat creep is gone, or at least I think it does.

>>2515424
oh yeah I did do the chimera all metal heat break, forgot to mention that.

Are you supposed to store 3d filament in a airtight bag? Is it really nessecary? Or do you just have it laying out.

>>2515470
you ought to store it in a box with a desiccator.
it absorbs water from the atmosphere and if you don't dry it, you will get stringing on your prints.

>>2515470
Lots of filaments come packed in a bag with a ziplock seal. Save these bags, and save all desiccant packs. Store your filament in them.

>>2515499
Also you can dry out the desiccant packs in a toaster oven. I put them in at 200F for a few hours and they're g2g.

>>2515499
>>2515500
there's loads of shit you can use as a dessicant. if you have a bag of epsom salt, you can oven dry it and it'll about double its mass in water.

>>2515509
Eh probably not the best choice since it melts into a corrosive brine

>>2515543
If corrosive brine is on the table, why not go whole hog with some sodium hydroxide?

>>2515543
magnesium sulfate is seriously fine. we use it in the lab all the time. i'm not saying pack your PLA in MgSO4, i'm saying put a cup of it in a box with your PLA, if you don't have some other dessicant.

>>2514842
ender 3 is nice, its what I have and I am quite happy with it. although it took a while to get it working reliably, main thing was getting a CR touch or BR touch or whatever

>>2515559
Is it safe to use the MgSO4 that I have in my pantry for cooking to dehumidify filament? I go through about a pound per month seasoning my food and don't want to buy extra.

Hey /3dpg/, I recently got my hands on several containers of white support wax that I'd like to flip on ebay. There is a fair amount of info on the labels, but 0 identification of a manufacturer, and going off of the name, I've been able to find next to nothing on this online. I was wondering if you guys could give me a hand identifying/pricing this stuff since I know the bare minimum about 3D printing.

>>2515596
chinese font

>>2515596
>called YHK-102
>next to no online presence
>cheap chinese alternative to Visijet M2 SUW
>compatible with Projet 2500w
>only sticker besides main label is QC approval
This is about all the info I've managed to dig up on this. Pic rel is the closest thing I've found to pricing online, it looks like there are 3 variants to this, each priced differently. I'm not sure which one I have, and have no idea how to narrow this down.

>>2515602
Anon, they had to steal it from somewhere.

>>2515625
If it's in the trash it's free, man. Everyone knows this.

A company called handi-racker is filling patent strikes on all the designs for handgun racking tools on Thingiverse. They have already taken down nine designs. They are going to take down this one next: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4919651
Don't let these terrorist win.

>finds the box that had a spare print mat and end stop switches
>repeats the bed leveling procedure
>prints fine with minimal pealing
had to dick with the support structure settings a bit so crevasse were easier to clean out, but enough fun, i gota print a replacement mains cover, rather dangerous to leave the socket just dangling out in the open, though i could just throw a permanently affixed cord on the power supply it and do away with the IEC plug entirely

>>2515666
That's about 15 minutes in Solidworks to make that, not including the time it would take to have it fitted to my particular, uh, "application", which I would have to do anyways if I downloaded that. Thanks, but no thanks.

Buying a bambu x1 carbon tomorrow. Talk me out of it.

>>2515679
Absolutely soulless, like a silver '98 Camry. Yeah, it's a good machine, but wouldn't you rather have the experience of building a printer from scratch?

>>2515666
>handgun racking tools
But why?

>>2515701
id assume its some anti competitive bs

>>2515706
No, what is a "handgun racking tool" for? Racking a handgun, I'd imagine. But what is the tool supposed to do there?

>>2515714
I think it's like an under the table mount.

i havent posted itt before. i bought a saturn s because le online business meme. i would like to make a mould out of prints so i use it as little as possible because this thing is smelly af and i just stood on my tub of acetone and it spilled everywhere and now it smells worse and i feel like im at 50% brain cells from sleeping in these conditions.
anyways, what material would you use for a mold or the resin in the mold for decent durability and painting. i know i can ask google but google doesnt have a soul like you do.

>>2515724
>what material would you use for a mold
Depends on the material being molded.

>or the resin in the mold for decent durability and painting
Depends on the application.

>>2515724
Silicone is peak mould material. Resin printing a plug, then casting silicone around that, and using the silicone as the mould is probably the most common way to go. Don't have to worry about clearance angles or whatever because you peel the silicone apart, plus it's a natural mould release agent (unless you're casting silicone into it). Can also cast at somewhat high temperatures using silicone, for things like pewter or perhaps a rather exothermic resin. If you do use resin directly as the mould, you'll need to care about clearance angles, will need to use a mould-release, and likely won't be able to use the mould as many times. But it would be better for absolute shape accuracy.

Don't resin print in the same room that you sleep in. After that kind of spill I'd be sleeping in the lounge.

>>2515724
>i feel like im at 50% brain cells from sleeping in these conditions

>keeping a SLA printer in your bedroom
RIP anon

>>2515728
thanks for the info. will a silicone mould be finicky because it is soft and flexible? i feel like anything i cast will be kind of warped? im just overthinking?
i cant sleep in the lounge there are animals outside that will watch me if im in there.

>>2515735
the bottle never said not to breath it. if i dont wake up sue siracha tech for me

>>2515739
Silicone moulds are usually in large enough blocks that they're pretty rigid. They can bend, but snap back to their original shape without plastic deformation. Watch some videos on casting into silicone moulds.

>>2515587
yeah for sure. so the way it works is that MgSO4 incorporates water in its crystal structure. it's not "wet", it's not like it's partially dissolved, the water molecules are physically bound up in a crystal structure. you could grind it all the way down to dust and it's still a dry powder.
at standard temperature and pressure, it's in the heptahydrate form, which has 7 water molecules for each molecule of MgSO4. that's the form you get in a bag from the store or whatever.
if you heat it up, you can drive the water out of the crystal structure. so much so that in a hot oven water will pool around the crystals as it comes out. and it'll drop down to lower hydrates, like a hexahydrate with 6 H2O, then a pentahydrate, and so on, until you get anhydrous MgSO4 with no water molecules in it. and if you take it out of the oven and let it sit, it'll suck water out of the air and reform the heptahydrate crystal. it has a really strong affinity for water. we dry solvents with it, so like if your acetone has some water in it, mix in anhydrous MgSO4 and it'll dry it up.
it holds a tremendous amount of water. if you buy a kilo of MgSO4, almost half the mass of it is water. if you dry out that kilo, you'll end up with around 500g or so of dry MgSO4 and all the water evaporates out.
maybe you could have like a plastic tub with a shelf in it, and put the dry MgSO4 on the bottom so it can dry the filament over time. it'll pull the water out of the air, and the filament will release water into the air, and that cycle will continue until equilibrium is reached with the MgSO4 being fully saturated. then you can dry the MgSO4 in the oven again, and use it again, forever.
it's probably better for maintaining already dry filament, because it's so fast to dry filament in the oven or whatever, but it would absolutely keep already dry filament dry.
look up how to dehydrate MgSO4, or drying MgSO4. there's a protocol to do it right and get a nice powder.

>>2515714
maybe for arthritic old grandmas? i had to get my grandma a pk380 because she just didn't have the physical ability to rack the slide on her carry gun.

Printing a jericho top slide and im more or less ok with how it came out but i was wondering if i could reduce the obvious lines on the top through printing settings. There is also some sagging in the barrel hole which i thought i could avoid (i was wrong) so i was wondering what i could do to mitigate that as well.

>>2515756
>if i could reduce the obvious lines on the top through printing settings
Variable layer height or nonplanar slicing.

>There is also some sagging in the barrel hole
Tuning of overhand/bridging settings. Or some slight alterations of geometry to make sagging less likely.

>>2515761
i forgot to mention that i am using petg which i have heard has issues with overhangs, would more fine tuning iron that out?

>>2515762
Potentially, though the settings that make overhangs nicer tend to reduce layer bonding. Consider using supports there.

>>2515764
I would if I could get rid of them. I don't know how I would scrape it out with a knife. Im using Cura for slicing and I cant find anything variable layer height or nonplanar slicing, should i switch to a different slicer?

>>2515768
>I don't know how I would scrape it out with a knife
I use a narrow woodworking chisel for that.

>variable layer height
Cura calls it adaptive layers
https://all3dp.com/2/cura-adaptive-layers-simply-explained/

>nonplanar slicing
It's not a standard feature of any slicers I'm aware of, but there have been some custom versions made to do it.
https://all3dp.com/2/non-planar-3d-printing-simply-explained/

>>2515780
thanks man, preciate it

>>2515764
>the settings that make overhangs nicer tend to reduce layer bonding
Instead of using higher fan speed Cura lets you specify a different speed for any overhangs steeper than a certain angle (configurable).
This is all I have on 4.7 but I suppose the newer versions of Cura have more settings to help with overhangs.

Here are a few Pokemon I printed on my Photon Mono 4K, I think they came out pretty well.

>>2515826
Also printed a Sonic figure a while back for a friend, I'm happy with how this one came out too.

Printed on my Sonic Mini 4K.

>>2515795
It's not just fan speed. It's also temperature and extrusion width

>>2514633
>I think the how dark the filament is affects how well it absorbs heat from the hot end.
you should definitely not be responsible for thinking.

>>2514861
that's a penior anon and this is a blue board. penior, pee balls and pubes even. your printer isn't racist anon, it's a faggot.

>>2515724
wait you go this far without picking a mold material?

anon you should go to the doctor. I am afraid you might be dumb.

>>2512142

I solved my problems lowering the temperature to 195°, reducing the retraction length (from 8.5mm to 5mm) and increasing the travel speed a bit.

There are some more minor flaws on the exterior of the lamp, but no stringing and almost no blobs inside. Overall is better this way.

>>2515901
good job anon

>>2515826
>>2515832
care to share the models? everywhere i look i can only find shitty lookalikes/knockoffs while the ones you posted actually look like the real deal

>>2515901
>lubrication of bearings
arent they self lubricating ?
Greasing which gears ?
Also is the capricorn tube legit ? i bought an off the shelf PTFE tube which was white, is capricorn just the same tube in blue ?

Why the hell is my CRTouch being useless? This is happening in the back corner of my bed, everywhere else seems fine. I have to assume the new firmware uploaded since I can have it probe the bed to supposedly generate a displacement mesh.

What can I do to resolve this or troubleshoot the issue?

>>2515939
>arent they self lubricating ?
No, bearings must be lubricated and, if needed, cleaned. In 3D printers it's not crucial because they are not under significant load and operate in a relatively clean environment. Nonetheless it can be beneficial if you have the tools for the job.
>arent they self lubricating ?
Z axis screw and extruder gears. Those are the most stressed parts of the printer and having everything clean and lubricated it's really beneficial. Less load on the motors, less wear and no weird squeaking noises.

In general, any contact surface should be lubricated with the proper lube. If lube is needed, you cannot run the machine. Not all the lubes are the same, so, unless you are not sure about what are you doing, don't use different lubes other than the ones that are prescribed.

In 3D printers lube is not critical and putting it in the wrong place can be detrimental. So be careful.

>Also is the capricorn tube legit ? i bought an off the shelf PTFE tube which was white, is capricorn just the same tube in blue ?

Dunno. The Capricorn tube is really tight. Better clearance in the Bowden tube can lead to better accuracy in the print but can put a lot of strain on your extruder. I'm not sure if the stock ender 3 extruder can print with it. Surely it can’t after some wear of the extruder gear.

In my experience is not an important upgrade. I would rather invest in octoprint, belt tensors, dual gear extruder, a roller for the spool (it's underrated, but could be really important).

>>2515944

Wipe the bed with alcohol.
If improves but it's not enough to solve: wash with dish soap and water, rinse carefully, dry out and wipe again with alcohol.

>>2515962
Not saying this won't do anything, but... It seems like it won't really do anything, as I'd also noticed poorer adhesion on left travel moves than on any other moves, even in other areas of the plate (but not quite print ruining levels). I had just assumed that that was a side effect of whatever was going on with the bed leveller

>>2515971

Adhesion problems with -x movements could be due to the cooling fan, if cooling is not symmetrical as in ender 3. But in first layer, fan should be off.

Another problem could be a misaligned nozzle (i.e. a non orthogonal nozzle in respect to the bed).

Dirty bed can be an issue. The good news is that you just have to spent 20 second to fix it. I usually start the troubleshooting from that and solve.

>>2515980
Thanks. I'll try cleaning and report back.

I recently bought a TwoTrees Sapphire Plus (SP-5) printer. I figured that it has a solid frame and is Core XY but i got it with the intention of swapping it's abysmal hotend before ever using it. Now that I got it and assembled it I can fully appreciate how annoying of a mounting option it has. The hotend I got for it is the Phaetus Rapido (I got the UHF but plan on using the HF for starters). Do you guys think I should try using this mount(even though it's meant for a shorter hotend) - thingiverse/thing:4716358 or should I look into printing a completely new carriage/hotend assembly like cults3d/The-diamond-mount ?
The thingiverse option uses a 40x40x10 fan and not the 30mm that came with the stock hotend.
The Diamond Mount maker says Rapido is almost useless on a TwoTrees and cables are rigid. Why would it be useless? I'm seeing it being used on vorons and VzBots alike.

whats the next best cad software? i wish to make a *proper* camera mount so i can monitor prints, instead of having it bolted to scrap steel and magneted to a spare computer power supply
>i dont feel like reinstalling windows if/when fusion360 crashes & bricks itself, like what happens with 3ds max, or pirating it
>freeCAD is dogshit

>>2516072
Solidworks
>inb4 b-but muh leenucs
Make a rope out of your programming socks and neck yourself.

>>2516090
hey hey, i use windows though

>>2516072
literally haven't had a fusion 360 crash in 2 years.

>>2516072
>el autodesk garbage crashing
I hear this so often it's not even funny.
Why do you people like to torture yourself with shit software? Both AutoCAD and F360 are crap. Use Solidworks, use CATIA, use literally anything that isn't from autodesk.

Anyone have advice on converting a 3d printer to a 2d pen/marker plotter? I have a prusa mk3s+ and I want to print Christmas cards with custom drawings and text. Ideally the solution would be easy to switch between 2d and 3d mode.

>>2516117
I'd probably affix a marker to the hotend,
make a svg of what you want to draw, convert it into a single layer gcode and manually (or make a script) remove temperature and fan stuff

>>2516117
Make sure the marker holder is spring-loaded, that way you can raise and lower the Z without caring about bed levelling. SVG scaling is a bitch, watch for it messing with you and sending your gantry crashing into its limit. Trial and error may be required to find a 2D G-code generator that works for you. Particularly so if you want to trace vectors and raster inside them. Gonna have to write my own code for that.

t. put a laser on my 3D printer and haven’t gotten anything coherent out of it for over a month

>>2516105
you're doing it wrong. it will shit the bed trying to fillet a complex curve. still my goto shit, I mean for free it's hard to beat, but it does crash occasionally for me.

>>2515832
That looks awesome anon. How do you like the sonic 4K? I’ve never used resin, would you recommend that machine or wish you’d gone a different route?

Anyone else's parents getting gridfinity for christmas?

>>2515909
Yeah, I can upload the few Pokemon models I have. I don't know if I still have the Sonic one, I found it for free on thingiverse or something. I'll report back later tonight, in a few hours or so.
>>2516171
The Sonic 4K feels like a more premium/well built machine than the Mono 4K, but I honestly have no complaints about either. The 4K Mini is like $90 more than the Mono 4K, but I did buy an aluminum vat since the Mono 4K came with a plastic one and that cost me a little under $20.Pic related was done on the Mono 4K using Siraya Tech grey fast resin while those green Pokemon we're done on the Sonic Mini 4K using Anycubic's translucent green resin. I was having a fuck ton of issues using Anycubic's grey resin, no matter which printer I used it on so I swapped to Siraya tech and Phrozen's resin which I've had a lot more success with. That green resin is the only stuff I've used from Anycubic that wasn't hot garbage. YMMV but another anon in here had the same issues with the exact same resin/color combination.

I'm going to print a few more things on both printers tonight (Mainly Pokemon stuff since I'm a manchild) and I'll post more results. I'd say you can't go wrong with either machine but I've heard a lot of horror stories about Anycubic (mainly buying directly from them and customer service) but the machine has been working well for a few months. Phrozen seems to have better quality control but I've read that people have more issues setting up the Mini 4K and leveling it compared to the Mono 4K. For reference, they were both my first resin printers after dabbling in FDM printing for a whole week and I had no issues with any of my printers because I have the ability to read and follow instructions.

I'd suggest buying your printer on Amazon since you have until January 31st to return it in case anything goes wrong or you just don't like the printer.

>>2516185
What in the ever loving fuck is that

Anyone know how well octoprint works with resin printers? Shit works great with FDM stuff, but I'd imagine a lot of the stuff isnt really relevant to resin printing, and it seems like every other brand of resin printer has their own file formats which only complicates things further

>>2516232
https://youtu.be/ra_9zU-mnl8
stackable, modular storage solution to stick in a drawer.
My mom does sewing and crafts so she's going to shit herself.
I bought a 10 rolls of mega cheap chinese pla and it's good to just burn through it. Learning curve with the grey at first then just been going through roll after roll.

>>2516185
run a cigarette lighter or anything with a good directed flame across the prints to get rid of the stringing that you see there.

>>2516236
meh. not for me.

>>2515958
>Z axis screw and extruder gears
So what do you recommend for these surfaces ? I never heard about the extruder gear need lube or anything like that.
>>2514862
>Enclose the printer
The whole printer ? or like keep the power supply out ? Some anon suggested that they just use a cardboard box that fits all over the printer. Does that mess up the cooling and temps on the SMPS and the main board ?

>>2516224
Thanks for the rundown, I’ll do a little more research but leaning towards the sonic. Also, nice thinkvision monitor.

setting up ender 3 v2. just got box in today.
what stuff do i need to do once i have it going? like setting tension and esteps and shit, what calibration type stuff do i need to do?

>>2516239
I use a bic lighter and it removes the stringing pretty easily, you don't even need the direct flame on it. I assume a hairdryer would also be good if you don't wanna buy one of those expensive heat guns
>>2516247
return it, imo. creality sucks ass

>>2516242
actually, that's pretty cool.
Still a lot of effort to go through but I can see it paying off.

>>2516251
>return it, imo. creality sucks ass
It does but you are discouraging someone for no reason.
>>2516247
Congrats on getting your first 3D printer. Now first of all, check if the bed is bent or not, the glass bed or the metal sheet under it. If its warped, get it changed. Check the extruder isnt broken etc.
Download Cura, and use this profile:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdFGfWwfVYU
Have you bought filament separately ? You will need it so do that.
Glance over this playlist before you start
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWtApxaJRck&list=PLVctiritf4zSqDkZN7UQHEgCXiarOpJu7
and this one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LV1Nnohwqik, check out the channel in general. Even tells you how to deal with jams and clogs so in general, a good resource.
Find something to print here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=benchy&page=1&type=things&sort=relevant
There is a lot of hit and miss here so patience is key. You will need upgrades to your machine once you get used to it, my top recommended are
-All metal extruder (the plastic ones break)
-Yellow bed springs (much stiffer)
- Glass print bed (the one on the v2 on mine was bent)
- Firmware upgrade to 2.x
- UI upgrade to 2.x or maybe use Gyvers. (adds manual 16 point probing to your machine but the stock firmware on the ender doesnt save any Z offset values)
Also dont forget to PID tune, set up e steps, flow rate.
Good luck out there.

>>2516247
Try and get it working properly with the provided equipment before you start throwing parts at it. It's a perfectly decent machine as is if operated properly.

>>2516247
And please make sure that wherever you place it, there is no air draft or any rapid temperature changes because they fuck up prints, like a lot. Clean your bed with isopropyl alcohol, works wonders with adhesion. I do that after every 2-3 prints. You can feel it when you dont lol.

>>2516266
>Download Cura, and use this profile:
already good for that, i got a trial of fusion360 too and did a bit of playing around with it. i feel pretty retarded using it but i followed a guide and made a thing that feels pretty good.
>bought filament separately ?
yeah 2 kilo pla+
>Glance over this playlist before you start
i've already watched a lot of videos about them when i was deciding on what to buy, and i absorbed some information like, i'm meant to wipe the bed down with alcohol before using it, and that a lever on the extruder (or something) breaks often and it's good to print a new one. i think i'll just try and follow the paper guide they sent me and see if that's sufficient to get it setup, i'm more wondering what stuff after that is important.
like, setting esteps. i don't really know what that means, i guess it means making sure that each unit the stepper motor moves is repeatable and standard.
do i need to set my belt tensions to some certain value?
leveling the bed is a thing i need to do. i figure it would also be good to figure out my maximum volumetric flowrate to maximize print speed. i've also seen a thing where people print cubes and use calipers on them in order to check how dimensionally accurate the machine is. i don't know what that's called but that's the type of stuff i'm asking about. what sort of stuff i need to dial in or test before it's totally good to go.

i've bookmarked a bunch of stuff like klipper and marlin and octoprint, all sorts of little upgrades like new hotends and what not, but i think it's probably good to get it going as best it can be stock, and then decide what is worth upgrading. i don't even really know the value of going with direct drive instead of the bowden setup it already has, for example, and i don't want to just buy something new if i don't even understand why i'm replacing it, ya know?

thank you though i appreciate it.

>>2516273
My favorite upgrade was getting octoprint setup and running with a cheap little camera on my old raspberry pi. I just watch the first layer to make sure it's good then keep an octoprint tab open in my browser and check it every now and again. Super useful for stopping prints that turn to spaghetti half way into a 12 hour job. I've heard of people running it on a phone but I wouldn't leave that running for too long like I just leave my raspberry pi running.

>>2516273
>like, setting esteps. i don't really know what that means, i guess it means making sure that each unit the stepper motor moves is repeatable and standard.
In the FDM context, the idea is that you extrude the same amount of filament every single time. For this, we usually take off the coupling for the extruder and bowden tube, and ask the machine to manually output 100mm of filament. Then we do this 3-4 times, take an average of how much is actually put out, anTd make the adjustment to our machines.
>do i need to set my belt tensions to some certain value?
They have to be tight but not too tight or you will wear your machine down. There are videos on those channels about doing exactly so
>i figure it would also be good to figure out my maximum volumetric flowrate to maximize print speed.
What you are looking at is the flow rate calibration and the idea there is to make sure if you arent under or over extruding. You will print out a single wall cube with the top missing and measure the 4 sides and then find the flow rate for your filament. You will first print what is called a x,y,z calibration cube and measure it. See the finish, maybe post it here. From that print you can figure out a lot of stuff like the finish, elephant's foot, wringing, over or under extrusion. Then you decide if you need flowrate adjustment or belts are too tight / lose. Again, videos are on the channels i posted before, go through them with a fresh pair of eyes because you will be applying this knowledge soon.
>FLOWRATE - DEPENDS ON FILAMENT
>ESTEPS - DEPEND ON THE EXTRUDER
Also go into the settings and turn "POWER LOSS RECOVERY" off because it fucks up the surface finish on some prints.

>>2516273
> klipper and marlin and octoprint,
We all have brother. I even have a bltouch lying in storage somewhere along with a pi. Even bought a pi camera to setup klipper. But I never got around to do that because got busy / lazy. And I have been doing this for a while now. Just go by your own pace. Was tempted to buy a S1 when it came out but I will wait for the price to go down in a bit. Or might just bite the bullet and buy a C1 or something top tier for top dollar.

>>2516247
Don't adjust the e-steps. It's a meme. The default that Creality ships with machine is FINE.

If you calibrate e-steps, you'll find that it was underextruding by like 10%. This is completely intentional, since if the e-steps are actually calibrated, it will overextrude PLA. On a calibrated extruder, you need to set flow to -10% on PLA, less on PETG, and less still on ABS.

>>2516288
>Don't adjust the e-steps.
>it will overextrude PLA
what sort of bait is this ?
Let the guy print a XYZ cube and see for himself. I never bothered with it till i had to replace my extruder and it made a world of difference.

>>2516290
Maybe I worded it wrong.

Don't touch stock e-steps + don't touch flow settings in slicer = good print

Calibrate e-steps + calibrate flow in slicer = good print

Calibrate e-steps + don't calibrate flow in slicer = overextrusion

Options 1 and 2 work. For a noob, it's best not to mess with anything.

nandroid board

Do you guys get bulk hardware for your 3d prints? A lot of the designs on prusa printers or thingiverse have lots of m2 bolts/nuts, certain size magnets, etc. do you just have a ton of these on hand? Do you buy them all in a big set?

>>2516245
Yeah, I think you should go for it if you're already leaning towards getting it. What other machines did you have in mind? Pic related was made on the Mini 4K using Phrozen's 4K Grey resin.
>>2516299
I bought a few sets off Amazon that have like 20-30 of each m2, m3, m5, etc at different lengths. They're only like $10 or so.

So I may have made a slight impulse purchase.
Did I fuck up?
I also got some water-washable resin.
Also ordered a 12V UV LED strip and will DIY in a bucket for a cure station.

>>2516299
>>2516302
Pic related

>>2516299
You can buy mX bolts in all sorts of styles and types and mixes. They're more expensive than you'd think but ordering a set or two will last you much longer than you might expect. I think m3 is the most used on thingiverse

>>2516302
print something like this and get a good light
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1019656
Might do wonders for your print pictures.

>>2516299
yes.
Ali express has some nice kits for M4/M3/M2 screws of various lengths for cheap if you can wait. Also compare ebay and amazon for what it's worth. You might also want to pick up some heatset inserts. Frankly you could just get away with M3's of various sizes. mostly 6,8,10, &20 mm length in a socket cap.

>>2516299
I get 'em from Bolt Depot when I'm running low.
Twice as expensive as Amazon but I never worry about the quality. Comes in individual bags which I just dump straight into their shelf in my organization thing. No sorting needed.

>>2516303
Pic related. I picked up a Elegoo Saturn S.
Seemed like a nice price.
Regular Saturn was out of stock for US
But I intend to print in my big living room where I am so the filter would be nice.

>>2516317
>$120
>more than 10c per fastener.
>fastener quality matters for 3d printed parts.
jesus christ.
So long as they're not made of zinc plated soft cheese you'll be fine.

>>2516321
they taste better than amazon screws if i had to be quite honest with you familia

shit
guess my layer-to-layer adhesion is just not good enough?

>>2516333
I bet layer adhesion is fine but the thin cross section is inherently weak and vulnerable to being knocked over by the nozzle. Maybe try z-hop to hopefully prevent collisions.

>>2516333
Redesign it so the grilles are a separate part that slots into the main assembly.

>>2516232
Kowloon City.

>>2516333
This is why so many designs use hexagon grilles. And fillets. For fuck sake, dude.

>>2516333
If you look closely at your edges for the top layer, it's the nozzle is too close in that area or putting out too much filament. It's squishing your edges something terrible and may have just physically knocked over that pillar.
You can really see this becase you can see lines in your print closer to the camera, and then it fades away as you look further up the picture

>>2516333
Oh, wait there are fillets, but on the top. You want some fillet on the bottom, then just do a straight bridge on the top. That's probably what happened, those overhangs while the top fillets were printing curled up (they always do), and caught the nozzle during a travel move.
Oh well, this is what parametric CAD is for!

>>2516336
Yeah, I thought 2mm was a good compromise between strength and not blocking airflow and blocking fingers, but I guess I was wrong.

>>2516340
That's a decent thought. I think I've got my print tolerances somewhat dialed in so it wouldn't be too hard. Next time.

>>2516345
Went for vertical vents to avoid angled overhangs, but I guess if the hexagons are small enough it would be significantly stronger and with less precarious extensions. Would need to use pretty small hexagons to block fingers though. How thin do you think I could get the supporting grid of a hexagon, if I wanted 10mm wide hexagons? Less than 2mm?

>>2516348
You think? I'll go through a more detailed calibration I guess. My cube came out bang-on, so I can only assume that the slicer is already compensating for that. The e-steps are within 95% of what they should be.

The band near the bottom is probably due to deformed rollers after storage, I'll just rotate them at random angles to prevent the deformations from compounding. With any luck that prevents further bands, if not I'll order more rollers. Or swap to linear rails lmao.

>>2516352
Oh yeah they curl up. That makes a lot of sense now. Huh, I'd have thought that fillets on the top would make sense, but I definitely see the problem. It's odd that the other half printed fine though.
I'll cut and sand the broken ones out and reprint them to superglue in place.

>parametric CAD
I use OpenSCAD on occasion, but using it to do fillets is ass so I steer away from it.

>>2516355
>You think? I'll go through a more detailed calibration I guess. My cube came out bang-on, so I can only assume that the slicer is already compensating for that. The e-steps are within 95% of what they should be.
>The band near the bottom is probably due to deformed rollers after storage, I'll just rotate them at random angles to prevent the deformations from compounding. With any luck that prevents further bands, if not I'll order more rollers. Or swap to linear rails lmao.
yeh
i don't think it's your e-steps
it's usually never your e-steps after you do it the first time
just try the easy thing and dial your z back a hair.

>>2516355
Don't worry about blocking fingers, worry about blocking dicks. Also, by excising your grills now, you can print the replacement drop ins laying down for more strength with less material. Just make their frame as tall as the wall of your case, and do like half that height or less for the actual hexagons and it will be plenty.

>>2516359
Also, since it is laying down, you can make the grill out of whatever shapes you want. Squares, triangles, hexagons, swastikas, soccer ball pattern, voronoi... Whatever and you can change it out later depending on how you fixture them to the case.

>>2516357
>just try the easy thing and dial your z back a hair.
Is it bad if I don't know what this means?

>>2516359
I was going to just get rid of the broken grid bars, file the surroundings flat, and superglue in identical bars. Could get rid of all of them, file the surroundings flat, and try to match that shape with a print, but that sounds like a pain.

I'll probably redo this in a few months with other design revisions anyhow, depending on how well it holds up under the heat. Pic related.

>>2516266
>>2516273
actually really good tip with the build video. i figured "ah ill just follow the guide but i was putting on the extruder and noticed the bed was kind of wobbly. googled that and got to this video and the guy is showing all sorts of shit like tightening your bed wheels and squaring up the vertical bars and shit. did up the wheels and beds great now.

>>2516384
Thanks, I am here all day.

>>2516243

I use PTFE grease on those elements. But just because it's fine for the task and I stole it ages ago from my father (he was ok with it). You need only a ridiculously small amount of it for a printer.

Aside from that, again, it's not strictly necessary to grease those elements, but it can reduce wear over time.

What do you think about 3d printing instruments like flutes or recorders?
Viable?
How hard would it be to learn?

>>2516433
>flutes or recorders

Don't. The results are poor and there are physical reasons for that. Moreover, for winds the better the quality of the instrument, the easiest to learn. So, really, don't.

>>2516243
>The whole printer ? or like keep the power supply out ?
Leave the power supply out if practical to do so. But without a dedicated heater for the enclosure, and without effort to making it actually air tight, it probably won't get hot enough to bother the power supply. A basic enclosure can block drafts pretty well.

>>2516251
>I use a bic lighter
A mini blowtorch with a directional flame works way better.

>I assume a hairdryer would also be good
Not even a little. It's too cool (since it's made to dry hair without burning it or your skin), and it's not focusable on the parts to be de-stringed. A fraction of a second of intense flame burns off strings without melting the underlying plastic. An extended hair dryer blast wouldn't bother the strings, but it could raise the print above the glass transition temperature and cause distortion.

>>2516310
I'll check it out, I just got Klipper running for my Vyper so I'll make it on that soon.

>>2516303
>>2516320
I'm assuming this your first resin printer, right? I've heard good things about Elegoo, especially their customer service. I have a Photon Mono 4K and a Sonic Mini 4k but I was thinking about getting a Mars Pro if I didn't pull the trigger on Anycubic's DLP printer.
>But I intend to print in my big living room where I am so the filter would be nice.
Keep in mind the fumes can make you feel sick if you don't have proper ventilation. Those air filters only filter out the smell iirc.
>I also got some water-washable resin.
I've only ever heard bad things about water washable resin. It's very brittle and apparently breaks apart on its own given enough time.
>Also ordered a 12V UV LED strip and will DIY in a bucket for a cure station.
I know a lot of people think that wash/cure stations are a meme but I feel like they help make the clean up process a lot easier.

>>2516447
Printed on a Sonic Mini 4K using Anycubic's green translucent resin.

>>2516444
time to get to it then. I will just get plexi glass, print some holders for it, and assemble a box of sorts.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2260556
I will print a few of these. I will keep the front open tho.
>>2516447
Yes, get lighting too. You can take pictures with your phone camera and they will come out so much better.

>>2516453
>I will keep the front open tho.
Then it won't be enclosed, now will it?

>>2516454
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2121640
Guess i will have to make something like this then.

Printed some more shit on my Anycubic Photon M3 using the free Fabbxible General resin it came with.
Dragon came out fine, just fucked the hands up scraping it. Really need to get me one of those magnetic flex plates.
Can't seem to get the sword blades to print right though.

>>2516382
>Is it bad if I don't know what this means?
no it'd be bad if you didn't know but wanted to argue anyways
Your Z is basically how far your nozzle is away from the bed in a rough sense. Your regular way of leveling gets all the bed the same distance from the nozzle all around the bed (or should, in a perfect world). That's X distance all around the bed. If you were 0.1mm away from the bed, you'd be 0.1mm away from the bed every where (ideally).
If you're a smidgen too close, backing your z up would make the nozzle 0.2mm from the bed, all the way around. You don't have to lower it via your corners or bedsprings because then you'd be re-leveling the bed and either tightening or loosening all the knobs.
Instead you just adjust the Z offset. On my printer, you can do it manually via a Z set screw.
Enders and other stuff have their own way of moving Z. You can also set it in software.

>>2516352
didn't fail at the fillet.
It failed at the layer line, there's no fixing that unless he goes to a different material and or prints hotter.

>>2516433
i think you can do an ocarina

is belt tension a meme? i just crank it until it makes guitar sounds

>>2516433
I made a wall mount for my guitar so that it collects dust in an unobtrusive way.

>>2516236
I love his guys projects, i wish his presentation can be a bit less cringy though

>>2516236

People like him must like the idea to die leaving behing a shitton of never touched gears and materials. And also extremelly well organized I guess.

>>2516236
why does he wear a scouter

>>2516333
do it as an insert so you can print it horizontal for better layer adhesion

>>2516528
I hate him because he once threw away perfectly good electronic components and ordered new ones because he couldnt be arsed to organize them.
>>2516538
the fire rises

>>2516561

>>2516562

ender 3 v2 guy from last night. got it going and did a benchy this morning.
getting everything dialed in actually took a really fucking long time. the aluminum tubes on the z-axis wanted to cantilever out by a good quarter inch or so and it took a lot of unscrewing and rescrewing to get stuff square enough.
also the carriage beam that the extruder runs on would not sit straight. lots of unscrewing and rescrewing and propping up with peices of metal to try and get it level. i think i got pretty good though, only a couple thou off.
bed leveling is a pain in the ass. one of the gears i had to completely run out, then when i came back around the nozzle was scraping the surface. it took like 8 adjustments per corner and i left some nice scratches on the bed.
benchy looks ok, just default settings. 200c extruder 50c bed, 10% infill, .2 layer height, .4 nozzle. i used the free PLA that came with the printer.
print looks ok except for some crusty stuff on the arches, and on the top of the post thing at the back of the boat. dunno what is responsible for that.

>>2516572
also there's kind of like a gross "seam" or something down one side of it. surprisingly hard to take a photo of but it's pretty obvious with your eyeballs. maybe that's where each new layer starts? it doesn't look good.

>>2516592
z seam

So i am using
M42 P4 S100
to set the PWM on a pin. the problem is that M42 is executed the moment it gets loaded into the Marlin's buffer, so async basically.
But i need some way to do it in sync. Any ideas?

What i mean:
G0 X100
M42 P4 S100

if i run the gcode M42 will execute before the G0 movement finishes. I need to make sure the movement finishes first. And i can't use M400 since it causes delay between movements
G0 x100
M400
G0 x200
this is not a smooth movement as if i did just
G0 x100
G0 x200

Let's hope somebody with big brain can help because i'm out of ideas ;_;

>>2516538
heavy autism mixed with type-A personality

>>2516592
Bed leveling has to be done very often.
Have you done esteps and flow rate calibration ?
Please use the Cura settings I shared, the 5.2 ones. They make a lot of difference. Are all the wheels on the X, Y axis tight (but not too tight) ? The need to be able to spin when you push them. I think its a Z issue. Did you turn off the power loss recovery ? Please print a XYZ calibration cube, should take around 30 minutes. They might visualize issues better.

>>2516614
>Any ideas?
You could try turning off the emergency parser since that is usually responsible for commands that get executed right away.
You could also try to use M226 to watch for a state change in the pins of the stepper drivers, there should be a pin you could use to tell if the machine is still moving or not.
Of course you could also edit the firmware itself to make M42 a queue command instead.

>>2516619
>Bed leveling has to be done very often.
If you have a shitty printer then yeah
I've gone through four rolls of shitty pla without touching e-steps or releveling.
>>2516592
Anon, if anyone suggests e-steps as an answer to anything, they're an idiot and it's safe to ignore them.
That's a Z-seam. You can help that out by enabling wiping. But it's just an unavoidable fact of how the FDM printers work.
You can spread the seam around by selecting random zseam points.

>>2516628

This!

I never calibrated x and y on my ender 3 because they were always perfect. I had to calibrate E to compensate some slipping and then i solved changing extruder. I just calibrated Z the first time and then after three years (the printer have been moved in another house and left alone for almost one year).

About leveling... if you are gentle with the printer when you remove the pieces you will have no problem at all!

Just level the bed before important prints or if you have not used the printer for a while.

>>2516185
with mine it would just get shoved on a shelf next to all the other crap and never touched again. I hope you're also going to organize their shit with it.

seems as nice as advertised, you printing more for yourself?

>>2516273
in a month or so Fusion360 will start acting like you have to buy a subscription. you'll have to hunt around a bit to force it into hobby mode, so don't panic when that happens.

>>2516299
I don't use fasteners.

>>2516333
make holes not skinny towers.

>>2516469
or z-hops so the nozzle doesn't retard into the print. i mean it's a bad design but z-hop is a thing

>>2516592
in addition to what other anons said vase mode doesn't have a z seam but it's not a normal print mode

>>2514465
Same. I don't know how people get away with printing shit between 200-220. I run pla Plus at 230 C, abs and p e t g between 240 and 245°. I print nylon at 250 plus closer to 260

>>2514665
ABS is the easiest thing to get to stick because all you need is more abs. Slap some ABS on your bed, level it, and everything should print fine if your temps and settings are good. If the nozzles clogged or the filaments wet then that's something else to deal with.

>>2515265
Dude, I can't tell what the fuck is going on with your printer it should be very cut and dry either it's got a glass bed or it's got a mat and neither should be permanently affixed to the metal plate. If anything cut a piece of mirror and swap the bed if you absolutely need to, if you want to put a mat on their fine go for it but I printed for years with the CR 10 and the warped ass bed it came with with minor issues. I finally swapped the glass bed for a sheet of garolite so I can print carbon fiber nylon. I found out that soft build plates move a whole lot once heated but the g10 was so strong that my pla prints would still stick to it with the lightest of contact, so much so that I could actually get contours on the legs of the articulated llama that you might find on thingiverse. The test llamas I printed with the flex plate and the glass bed on my other printers both came out with flat legs that were against the bed but the g10 llama had rounded legs. Absolutely miraculous looking back with hindsight.

>>2516299
I tried to figure out what bolts are needed by my builds, especially the builds that go bang. And to be honest I find it better at least for me to find the lowest common denominator and go for that rather than buy a bunch of different sized bolts if I don't have to. I'm not going to pay extra for 20 mm bolts if I can get 25 or 30 in bulk and then use my Dremel to trim them down as needed. Now this is just an example I'm sure 10 20s and 30s are all fairly cheap but if you need something that's say 15 or 16mm and that's going to cost you extra for just three bolts then like I said get something in bulk trim it down and then save the cut off for other projects. You can cut a slot and turn it into a set screw. You can always use set screws.

>>2516185
I honestly thought about this for my stepdad but I got him a hose timer and I'm going to print him off some adapters for his raised beds. In the meantime I'll be printing myself some vertical beds because I have to have the latest and greatest and then he can catch up later.

>>2516467
Ah so it is the Z-offset you're talking about. Can't really see why someone would tune that, just use a different paper thickness or whatever haha. I can only imagine that having an effect on the first few layers, so I can't see how it would influence this?

>>2516651
Just wanted to maximise airflow, to minimise the amount of obstruction. While being finger-proof, since there's mains voltage inside.

>>2516652
I'll definitely consider it if I absolutely need that kind of top fillet that's prone to curling up. But I take it they'd increase print time a bit.

Hey guys, what is the thinnest or best practice for wall thickness I can get away with? I'm waiting for my printer to get here, I've been messing around in cad, and it occurred to me that my wall thicknesses for a half-inch high extrusion might be to skinny.

>>2516433
You can print an octarina, kazoo and maybe pan flute. 100% infill so the wall at least have some density. Don't bother with anything bigger/more complex.
They're all about equally easy to learn.
They're still going to sound like shit compared to real ones. Except the kazoo where the sound is produced by the membrane and not wind reverbating.

>>2516674
It's standart to have at least two walls (0.8 thickness for 0.4 nozzles.) Bigger nozzles don't need that many walls for structural integrity.

>>2516677
If you're up for it you can bypass the 3D printed object and then use 3D printing in conjunction with something else. You could make say a mouthpiece that connects to a jug that holds water and that way you can pour out the water until you reach the pitch that you're trying to obtain. Sometimes you have to think outside the box. The next time you change your windshield wipers save the blade and you can use the metal piece to make a kalimba. You just need a resonator you can 3D print some hardware and then use a cell phone app to tune each prong that you cut from the wiper blade.

>>2516646
>seems as nice as advertised, you printing more for yourself?
No I use a $20 harbor freight parts organizer with labels.

https://www.amazon.com/Ratchet-Wrench-Battery-Terminal-Socket/dp/B0B4BFSGDK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3IJ03K180QLR7&keywords=0.4+ratchet&qid=1670366313&sprefix=0.4+rachet%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-3

is this the right wrench to remove the nozzle?

>>2516732
No.
The nozzle is 6mm, just use a 6mm wrench.
Or even better, use a 6mm socket. The nozzle will simply fall into the tool, so you don't get a hot nozzle bouncing around all over the place.

What's could be causing these wild fluctuations in nozzle temperature and how do I fix it? It can be fine for hours, but then for a few minutes it very quickly jumps from around five degrees under to about five degrees over, too quickly for this to be anything but some electrical problem somewhere. After it happens the printer usually returns to working normally for a few hours more. I've tried wiggling the cables both close to the thermistor and to the circuit board, as well as the whole way along the cable, but it doesn't have any effect.
Ender 3 v2.

>>2516744
>I've tried wiggling the cables both close to the thermistor and to the circuit board
Try the same with the heater cables.

>>2516753

>>2516757
that has to be faulty wiring like something slipped out of place holy shit

>>2516732
Depends on the printer/hotend. if it's a V6 style nozzle you're looking at a 7mm socket. if it's a stock creality/mk8 nozzle you're looking at a 6mm nozzle. You can get away with the SAE conversions but you do risk rounding off the soft brass, especially with a 1/4" on a 6mm. on the other hand 9/32" and 7mm are practically identical.
Either way, you'd be better served by a 6 pointed socket and ratchet. go for 1/4" drive.

>>2516758
the chassis is hot and being grounded through the microsd shield

>>2516744
I don't know about the ender3 v2 but check if inside the cable sleeve going to the hotend there are inline connectors for the thermistor

>>2516753
Nope, doesn't do anything either.

>>2516321
Have you never gotten the zinc plated soft cheese special from china?
I once ordered a binch of bolts from China and got fucking spray painted chalk or something.
Like they had poured a chalky, dusty ceramic mix into the molds and then spray painted them with a glossy black paint to make them look metallic. You could snap them in half with three fingers.

>>2516744
Could be as simple as the part cooling fan turning on. Do you still have the silicone sock on? You could try running a PID for a few cycles (8~12).
If it's not affecting your print, i'd just leave it. how wildly is it oscillating?

>>2516770
Not with fasteners, but once with a set of taps. Since I never do SAE, I impulse bought a set of SAE taps from ali and just let it sit for the better part of two years before I needed a single one. The tap's threads ended up like pic related into low carbon steel. Silver lining is the hardening was so poor the thing twisted rather than break off inside the hole.

>>2515352
Check out lychee slicer. I hated chitubox

>filament melted around drill bit
what do?

>>2516789
go slower.
Or use a bit meant for plastic.
Best to just go slow.

>>2516299
Yep, I bought these assortments on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RFPRZ4C
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJQC7T6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CYGD9XK

I also bulked on fasteners on aliexpress, since I had plans (at that time 6 months ago) to build voron printers I went and bought fasteners that are called out in the BOM. 95% of the time I have had the required fastener for any projects I find on thingiverse/printables.

I can't tell if its the bolt or my hex, but it slightly binds when I tighten m3.

Does anyone have recommendations on buying grade 10.9 on ali? Im not saying mine is shit, but I also noticed discoloration maybe its surface rust.

The shop I got mine were from
>HZYUEGOU Official Store

so if you have recommendations that aren't from this shop or experience from buying from this shop, lmk.

I would also recommend heat set inserts, m3x5(OD)x4(length) and also in size m3x4.6x4 or 5 not 5.7

>>2516804
Yeah I tried using water, which kinda worked, but I'm not too happy about potential water ingress between layer lines, or just residue left behind in a shaft that will have a ferritic bolt in it.

>>2516825
Just go slow you twat.

>>2516771
Part cooling fan is on 100% that whole time. Silicone sock is on fine. It does affect the print, I get noticably lower quality during the times it fluctuates, and it sometimes even triggers thermal errors that abort the print. Thanks for the advice on PID, I'll try that once this print finishes.

Slowed my speed down to 80% and the print is much better. There is a lot of monkeying with this shit isn't there.

>>2516744
pid tune?
M303 E0 C10 S222 U1 ;autotune nozzle
M303 E-1 C10 S75 U1 ;autotune bed
m500 ;save

Cleaning bed worked per >>2515980, but I'm getting this problem now. Undersides of curved parts are drooping. I guess this is a more classic problem, I just... Want to know if there's at least a fast way to solve it?

>>2516894
Check that your bed is level again. Enders(marlin whatever) tend to have a sequence in the software to do so. You might want to check that your bed isn't bowed before you start leveling again.
If it's one corner consistently you might get away with just a quarter turn to bring that corner up (look carefully at the knob to figure out direction).
Are you using an SD card to print, or are you printing from a computer/raspberry pi?

>>2516906
Printing from SD, but... I think that the auto bed levelling probe should compensate for bed warping if it's working right and applying the deformation mesh correctly

>>2516909
is your z offset set correctly?

is it "fine" that my cables sit on the bed on my ender 3 v2 (clone)?
also its hard to pull the bed all the way forward. it tries to pull itself back. i don't know why that is.

>>2516972
If your printer pulled you all the way forward, would you just stand there and take it? No, you'd resist too!

>>2516974
well its more than happy to be pushed back, but it takes a lot of manhandling to bring the bed forward to level the back corners. and i figure that retraction that i feel by hand might have consequences with printing in the back parts of the bed

>>2516972
No. Chances are it was assembled with the hot-end cables going in front of the box frame instead of behind it, take it apart and fix it.

>>2516975
Maybe the v channel is fucked up, or the rollers are not square with each other? I don't really know though, I have only ever used coreXY printers.

>>2516985
>going in front of the box frame instead of behind it
what do you mean by that?

>>2517011
Fuck idk just post a pic so we can tell exactly what's wrong
or draw it in ascii art if your internet is too shit

wow in the process of trying to get a good picture ive completely solved my own problem and i could have just looked at it and figured it out.
the power cables route along the back and up over the power switch in the back (like pic related)
so when the bed is fully extended the cable is at maximum tightness and it tugs the bed back.
but i could just pop the zipties and route the cable under the foot and to the side so it's not constrained so hard, and that also eliminates the cable sitting on the bed problem.

What's the sexiest enclosure method? Need ideas for the printer I'm building, my current one has bolts going through into t nuts in the extrusions, it's not ideal for disassembly.

>>2517045
>What's the sexiest enclosure method?
Would you fuck this? It would fuck itself hard.

>>2517045
i've not done it but i was thinking about doing the shower curtain flexible ones.
how about a fabric reflective growtent enclosure so you can produce sticky buds when you're not printing

Can the fag with the mosaic tool make a new one and this time remember to use a title.

>>2516673
>that kind of top fillet
Use chamfers rather than fillets. Those print fine as overhangs. Most printers, materials, and parameters can handle 45 degree overhangs, but most have trouble with overhanging fillets due to the extreme overhangs at the transition to horizontal.

>>2516674
>what is the thinnest or best practice for wall thickness I can get away with?
Nozzle width or a little more, but single-perimeter walls are very vulnerable to disruption at their ends, so practically speaking this is for vase mode or as interstitial parts of a larger print. If a wall needs to have self-supported ends, use two perimeters (meaning nozzle width x2 or so minimum). Note that this is for making printable walls, not structural strength for the printed part in practical use. That depends on things like what that use will be, the part's size (square-cube law matters), the material used (stiffness vs. flex vs. brittleness), and printing parameters that affect things like layer bonding. Smaller nozzles can handle smaller details like thinner walls, but being able to print very thin walls doesn't necessarily make those walls strong enough for their intended use.

>>2516862
>There is a lot of monkeying with this shit isn't there.
Yes, but the tradeoff between speed and print quality is something faced by all printers.

out of every solid thing on my printer, the z axis lead screw is the least solid. there's a nonzero amount of play because it's unsupported. is there value in making a lead screw holder?

>>2517119
No, the lead screw is loose on purpose. The Z-axis gets its rigidity from the guide rods (Prusa-style)/guide rails (Voron-style)/Z-extrusions (Creality-style).

>>2517119
>>2517120
To elaborate, the Z screw only needs to be solid along the Z axis. Some play on X and Y allow the Z movement system to accommodate imperfect fitup without binding. See the spring built into pic related? That's there specifically to allow that sort of flex. Even on things with a Prusa-style solid plate frame where things can easily be aligned enough to not need that sort of spring coupler, the Z screw isn't used for Z axis stability because the mechanical parameters that make for a good Z screw make for a bad guide rod and vice versa.

>>2517119
it's been done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqSQhwqSzvg

>>2516894
Is that a catapult?

>>2517132
I'd guess a crossbow.

>>2517120
>>2517123
i guess you're trading off long term wear for precision, and i don't even know how significant the inaccuracy of a slightly wobbly lead screw would be. but it is the most sloppy part and i figure you could run a machine a lot faster if you could have screw very rigid.
but that might exhibit regions with higher friction if your gantry isn't perfectly level and there's more force bearing on the screw. or, it'll just wear the screw or the threads on the gantry until the slop comes back anyway.
but i feel like someone smarter than me could do something better than a wobbly lead screw and i don't like it.

>>2517136
The long thing on the left looks a lot like a spoon, and the two parts to the top right look like a catapult frame.

>>2517126
that's actually pretty slick

>>2517138
With the lead screw loose the gantry will only rest on it and it will flex along the length to accomodate the actual guide rods. With a fixed lead screw your gantry is now in between straight guide rods and crooked lead screws pushing against each other. The former lets the straight guide rods dominate and keep the whole gantry straight, the latter introduces a wobble with each rotation of the lead screw in any situation where the lead screw and gantry aren't perfectly straight, which is literally never.

Let the guide rods do their job and the lead screw do its. Messing with this is only going to cause trouble for at best zero improvement, and more likely a slight degradation in print quality. Smarter people than you reached the conclusion that loose guide rods are the best option.

>>2517136
>>2517142
This is what it looks like to me.

>>2517148
Is this a weapon to surpass Metal Gear?

>>2517150
100% illegal in Europe at any rate.

>>2517081
I was also looking at this exact cover. Was hoping it will fit a prusa mini. They are kind of expensive for what it is, but my basement is kind of dusty, want the machine covered.

>>2516771
>>2516878
Don't know if it was the PID tune or tightening the screw over the thermistor (it was slightly loose), but the temperature plot looks like this now, and the print seems to be going flawless.

Ambient temp in my printer room is 6 degrees over the winter, and it's really hurting my print quality. Any easy solutions that don't involve heating the whole basement (expensive thanks to shitty EU politics) or bringing the printer upstairs (wife)?

Getting a PEI print bed cover because I'm starting to work with ABS and putting slurry on glass might become a pain.
Spring steel is worth it right?
Any recommended brands or is it all the same shit.
This a 235x235 bed and I'm in the UK probably buying from Amazon.

>>2517219
Spring steel is super worth it. I have a magnet on my bed and the spring steel just lifts right off (it stays on during prints, don't worry). A single flex is usually enough to pop even the hardest print off, otherwise I can just put the bed+print in the freezer for half an hour. Much more convenient than unclamping the binder clips in each corner to take the glass bed off the printer, or worse, glueing the PEI directly to the print bed and not being able to put it in the freezer at all.

PEI adhesion can be seriously tricky, it's so good getting a large print off the bed can be a major pain. The spring steel with magnet is worth a little extra so you can let the cold handle those prints.

>>2517219
Oh also forgot, and I would love input from anyone specifically working with ABS because it's a huge pain so far after I've moved away from PLA.
Do I need a frosted surface, has anyone had good results with the smooth surface PEI?

>>2517226
Smooth surface PEI has the best bed adhesion of any bare printing surface I have.

I also have a powder coated PEI sheet, and it has a fraction of the adhesion. Still, this is the one I use the most, since it puts an aesthetically appealing effect on the bottom layer. The smooth PEI results in an almost glass smooth bottom layer, except mine is scratched up a bit and every single scratch gets transferred to the bottom. I really ought to get another smooth PEI sheet, but this time take care not to scratch it up.

For extremely large prints, I use Vision Miner Nanopolymer. Word on the street is that it's just elmer's glue diluted in alcohol, but it works.

>t. prints 90% ABS, 9% PLA, 1% TPU

>>2517236
Thank you

>>2517236
PS, regarding the use of the Vision Miner shit.

Yes, it's expensive at $20 for a small bottle, but my bottle will last for years, because I dilute it 50/50 with 98% isopropyl. To apply, I put two drops on a kimwipe, and simply skim it over the top of the build sheet. You can see it flash off in an instant. I prefer this method because it's quicker than using the provided brush, it uses a fraction of the material, the adhesion are just as good, and most importantly, it minimizes the haziness it leaves on the bottom layer if you use too much. Less is more.

One last word on bed adhesion. Don't rely on isopropyl to clean the bed. Instead, use dish soap and a scrub pad. It works much better at stripping the oils and contamination from the surface.

>>2517243
new bread

>>2517226
You need to be cautious about a few things.
First off part geometry and bridging. Overhangs with abs is far from what you might be used to with PLA/PETG. As the material flows better it will sag more. Similarly, be cautious of shrinkage. The longer the straight line with the more layers on top of it the greater the chance of curling. Design accordingly.
Enclosure temperature is important, but you can get away with starting to print when you read 35-40C about 50mm from the bed. You can do this easily by parking the head there and reading from the thermistor. Insulated enclosures will continue to heat up as it prints.
One thing people fail to consider is the toolhead. Some toolheads blast air from the hotend down onto the print, which causes irregular cooling and thus contraction and curling. You want to be in control of as much air hitting your print as you can.
Be prepared to print a part multiple times if you want to maintain sub 3% dimensional accuracy.

>>2517244
Anon, I was going to start a new thread in a few minutes. I'm the usual OP

3D Lac is basically a fancy glue stick or is it more than snake oil?

>>2517246
Thanks friend, very comprehensive. I have all this side covered. Built an insulated enclosure, part cooling is off for ABS slices.
Mostly going to be printing cuboid structures with hollows to make moulds.

>>2517252
It's just polyvinyl alcohol diluted in isopropanol, like every other bed glue. You can make enough to treat the beds of a print farm for years for $20. Biggest scam in 3D printing.

>>2517255
When talking about part cooling you do need some in an enclosure. What I meant for keeping it in control is what happens on the ender toolheads and many others where the hotend cooling fan(the one on the heatsink) will blow down on the part.

>>2517256
but anon, it's nanopolymer! There's youtube videos showing it's use!
frankly as far as adhesives go, it's either just clean PEI or magigoo nylon for me. nylongoo + ABS leads to needing some serious thought to removal, as it sticks far too good.

>>2517148
stl?

>>2517257
Right, I understand now. Can any modding to the shroud be done that's already documented to avoid the airflow directing down?

>>2517269
>>2517269
>>2517269
>>2517269

New thread

>>2514391
This is some ship of Theseus bullshit.
I'd also vote for whenever you void your warranty.

>>2517263
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=da+vinci+catapult