/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Does anyone have 3d files for a set of dilators for the jannies?

>>2511051
Am I wrong for thinking that looks neat

>>2511072
Is this how we finally get their names and addresses?
>inb4 Agent David Steinberg, 1000 Colonial Farm Road, Langley, Fairfax County, Virginia

>fix after fix after fix after upgrade after upgrade
>finally go to print spool holder
>z-axis binding
when does this hobby become fun

>>2511074

ratrig minion, apparently the bed rarely needs leveling. (no bed height sensors, etc.)
when you have a tiny build area like that, the rigidity is very good, the bed heats up evenly, basically the material properties are all in your favor. I think if we use composites in the larger printers, it will be possible to get similar performance -- carbon fiber can be tailored for 0 or negative expansion with heat, for example, in addition to being very stiff obviously.

>>2511082
>no bed height sensors, etc.
I was thinking of the tron.0

>>2511079
did you buy an ender 3?

is sensor less homing a meme?

Thank your lord and savior

I just pulled the trigger on a Prusa mini per some anons suggestion. What am I in for?

>>2511093
Autism, and some reddit onions. At the very least there will be proper documentation and customer support, unlike the chinese manufacturers who don't care about you after they have your money.

>>2511097
>unlike the chinese manufacturers who don't care about you after they have your money.
I think it's downright adorable that you think Chinks care at all, at any time in the process.

>>2511072
I have normal dilator STLs but I would have to manually edit the spikes and hooks onto them to make them fit for the jannies.

>>2511079
>put thought and effort into initial assembly
>suddenly realize all copegrades are bloat and bandaid style fixes

>>2511079
Now just replace the frame to make your own little Ship of Theseus.

>>2511097
Creality and Voxelab will both replace defective parts pretty quickly. Shipped from HK using DHL. It's relatively fast and it's not exactly cheap. The technical support, though, is lacking since most of them don't even understand what they're doing.

>>2511083
You might as well pay a little more for the switchwire or something. It's a bed slinger but can still get plenty fast and you get nearly double the dimensions in each axis

>>2511108
The V.0 isn't really suited to be your main printer anyways, it's more of a quick prototyping and/or Benchie Racing type of thing, or just to rip off a few small prints while your big printer is tied up with a 12 hour print job.

had to buy a new extruder and hot end because I took 0 care of the last one it was totally destroyed and constantly failed prints with thermal runaways. the nozzle was infused with the hotend lol

>watching guide to hotend cleaning
>it recommends doing it all while the nozzle is heated to at least as hot as your hottest recent prints
>also recommends removing the fan during this time

Is that correct? There's no risk of damaging the hotend by heating it up without the fan?

>>2511131
sounds like a bad idea to me.
i left the fan on and just passed the old PTFE tube through the hotend several times (original was causing inconsistent extrusion and was all burned at the end).
that seemed to clear it out and i get perfect prints after fitting the capricorn tubing.

>>2511097
Is it a good machine though? Also what does Reddit onions mean?

>>2511135
Yeah, it's a good printer. And I was referring to the reddit style s.oy boy NPC culture surrounding Prusa, similar to Apple. Still though, it's a decent printer.

Newest iteration of these cupholders is finished

You guys spend hundreds of dollars and countless hours of your time fucking around just so you can print plastic trinkets that you would buy if you saw them at a dollar store.

>>2511191
sounds like someone has buyer's remorse because he can't model his own parts

>>2511191
(you)

>>2511191
>You guys spend hundreds of dollars and countless hours of your time fucking around just so you can print plastic trinkets that you would buy if you saw them at a dollar store.

>>2511191
>He thinks we give a shit about the plastic object after it has served it's primary usage of being printed...

>>2511191
3D printing is our refuge from trannies, identity politics, niggers, judaism, faggotry, and general shittyness that got associated with videogames and such. Sure, we have to deal with the Yellow Menace a bit, but at least they are upfront with their hatred of us, and treat us as honored adversaries. Fellow humans.

>>2511219
Son, I hate to tell you this but the 3d printed boomstick community is made up 90% by the people you hate, just waiting for you to fuck around and find out some more.

This hobby isn't your refuge.

It's your Sword of Damocles.

>>2511169
I don;'t get it

>>2511236
I think it's a little phone shelf?

>spend 12+ hours upgrading and repairing ender 3 extruder and nozzle after a horrendous clog
>everything is good to go, finishing up re-assembly and pre-print calibrations
>shiny new capricorn bowden tube wiggles loose
>the fucking gasket doesn't grab the tube anymore
>tube slides 100% free
>no replacements on hand
>can't get a new one shipped for days

MOTHER OF FUCK

>>2511079
nothing a z axis shim cant take care off, check your belts, check for wobbles and i think you are set

>>2511265
Wedge something between the fitting and tube?

>>2511224
>This hobby isn't your refuge.
lol and YWNBAW

>>2511224
Wrong, while you print starwars cosplay toys I'm printing guns

>>2511265
they provide a spare extruder bowden fitting with the tube and with the printer. check the box anon-kun

>>2511224
Do they print the guns to join the 41%? Sounds like a problem solving itself, bigots can't stop winning!

>>2511191
That's the beauty of it.
Pic related is a cradle to attach a magnet to an LED string in a manner that it won't be marring or permanent. Took me all of about ~5 minutes to design and maybe an hour or two to print out. Can't find this in the dollar store.

my ender max keeps clicking here and there. like filament isnt getting pulled in, but it still prints

>>2511236
>>2511242
made some cupholders for my mahjong table a couple months ago and have been prototyping improvements to start ripping people off on etsy
been working slowly towards a stable rotatable design for a phone mount since I learned how to use meshmixer before anything else and it's crippled me
finally have a consistently printing 5 piece unit that can swap to being just the cupholder and also have a 270 degree range of rotation if the phone mount is on

>>2511311
extruder gear too tight or too loose or your filament isn't in a good environment for printing so it's skipping most likely

>>2511286
My printer came with 2x extruder feeder connections and 1x pre-installed nozzle/hotend/receiver connector.
The capricorn tube came in a plastic baggy with nothing but the tube in it.
I may have a third extruder feeder connector, somehow, but I don't have a spare receiver and they don't seem to be cross-compatible.

give me 1 reason why i shouldn't start 3d printing XL dildos and sell them for premium prices

>>2511359
Nobody's going to pay a premium for a shitty 3D printed dildo.
You'd have to print it, polish it, use it to make a cast for silicone or latex, then refine that until you had a competitive product. Probably something dual-density with a stiff core and squishy exterior.

>>2511121
Yeah it’s this kind of shit that makes you realize you’re spending tons of money to make dollar store trinkets.
At least it’s *yours* though.

>>2511108
>normal people problems
gross.
I thought the switchwire was slow for regular prints. the corexy geometry is only in the z axis.
>nearly double the dimensions in each axis
what the fuck did you just say about me, you little bitch? I'll have you know I purchased a $99 ender at micro center, and I've been involved with numerous homebuilt aerospace prototypes, and I have over 300 printed parts. I am trained in CD/CAM software and I'm the top maker in my entire EAA chapter. As we speak I am ordering linear motion components from warehouses across the USA and the voron 2.4 instruction manual is being perused right now so I can better prepare to tune the flying gantry, maggot. the flying gantry that will wipeout the pathetic little thing I call my life. I'm fucking fucked, kid. those belts could stretch anywhere, any time, and I'd have to check over seven hundred screws, and that's just with the 4mm hex handle.
>>2511097
>>2511099
>requiring some motherfucker to babysit you while you play with your kiddy toy
is this what happens to you after you attend trade school?

>>2511369
Calm down Pvt. PTSD, you just pluck the belts every now and then and give em a quarter turn until they hum again. You don't even need to take anything apart.
t. 1300 hour V2.4

>>2511359
People who pay premium prices dont want a 3d printed dildo

>>2511376
To be fair, people pay premium prices for some paint and/or bodily fluids splashed haphazardly on a piece of canvas. Who's to say they won't pay for an awkwardly proportioned, jagged hunk of PLA to break off in their sin orifices?

>>2511380
The whole point of a premium sex toy is finish and bodysafe materials.

>>2511388
Stop oppressing my creativity!

>>2511380
>people pay premium prices for some paint and/or bodily fluids splashed haphazardly on a piece of canvas
In order to launder money or game tax deductions. Not really something sex toys are viable for.

>>2511391
True, so launder drug money with one-off anatomically hazardous adult accessories and you are in business.

What causes print supports on Ender 3 V2 to just fuse into the print and can't be removed?

I've tried support settings in both cura and prusaslicer. 205 c, pla, 60c bed. Only thing I have yet to do is a pid temp tuning. Could that be it?

>>2511438
>What causes print supports on Ender 3 V2 to just fuse into the print and can't be removed?
The supports were extruded too close to the print and achieved fusion rather than cold lap. The parameter is called contact distance in Pusaslicer. You can also lower the temp, but that's undesirable since that also reduces desired layer fusion.

Here's my first ever 3d print, the anycubic test cube. Printed with default settings using Photon M3.
Snapped the base scraping it off the build plate. Quite strong too, took a bit of effort to snap the thin piece in two.

>>2511051
Which printer under 250 USD from the OP is the best?

>>2511501
the Li GMA

>>2511501
the best printer isn't in the OP but good luck finding one.

Merry Merry and Happy Bullshit and all that. What are (You) printing for Christmas?

>>2511585
I meant, out of those four.

At the tail end of the last thread an anon said "you should turn off Z-hop for Ender 3 v2s".
Is that common knowledge? Is there something specifically broken with Z hopping in those printers?
I've been printing for years and never heard that before.

Could a kind anon tell me the resistance value for the second-from-the-right resistor, by the extruder driver on an Ender 3 v4.2.2 Mainboard? (marked R19)

Need this info to troubleshoot, but it's impossible to find schematics online. I think mine is busted, but can't know for sure until I get feedback from other anons who also have this mainboard.

>>2511625
>resistance value
Multiply the first 2 digits on it by 10^thrid digit
You're welcome.

been running two ender 3's for a few years, got into some money and thinking about pre-ordering the bambu p1p after a jewtube video, money well spent or best spent elsewhere?

>>2511628
This particular resistor seems to have 2 digits and a letter. Is it supposed to be a hexadecimal value or something?

>>2511639
>>2511628
nevermind I googled it, should have done that right off the bat
01C is supposed to be 10 kOhm then?
Hmmm, why am I getting a higher reading with my multimeter?

>>2511641
what are you getting?
what the fuck did you do to u6

>>2511661
I'm very confused, something is fucky, R19 reads as 3,5 kO, while other 01C resistors are reading 2,5 kO

>>2511663
Resistors don't usually die without burning up or something.
You're reading weird values because you're trying to measure in circuit and that can affect the meter's reading.

>>2511169
If you accidentally swing your arm into it it’s going to explode.

>>2511664
right, but why am I getting a different reading for that one resistor?

>>2511671
As other anon said there's no telling what else you're reading from the board without a schematic

>>2511663
2.5 is lower than 10, for your information
>>2511671
you get different values because htey are part of different circuit branches. you can't measure the value of one resistor in a set of parallel resistors, you only can measure the effective group resistance.
for example 3.3k would suggest 3 10k in parallel, 2.5k would suggest 4 10k in parallel etc etc.
you need to figure out the circuit and what other components you are unintentionally measuring and then calculate the value before you can check it.
or desolder it, check it, put it back.

>>2511380
Because these people are paying for dildos and there's plenty available.
Yours would suck.

>>2511501
Get the sovol SV06 while it's $229
both enderfaggots and prusafaggots shit and piss at the sheer site of it

>>2511365
It costs me 25 dollars and 15 minutes to replace

>dollar store trinkets
If you're making dollar store trinkets I don't know why you're 3d printing, most people here are making specific parts.

>>2511191
I'm printing toy for the Toys for Tots campaign.

My ender 3 pro is coming out with some hot garbage ever since it was moved into the garage

>>2511747
I don't even know...
I'd start over with the fundamentals. Is the frame square, level and tight? Is the bed trammed?

>>2511629
At this rate it's money well spent. There will be cheaper clones down the line but seems like Bambu is the only actual 3d printer competitor now.

>>2511639
Look up U6’s datasheet, see what pin R19 is connected to, then see what the application circuit says to do with that pin.

Also black solder mask is bad for tracing circuits, they should use relatively translucent colours instead.

>>2511744
I hate how this one looks useable..... some of the other designs have arms

>>2511747
How cold is your garage? Maybe that's throwing something off.

>>2511624
Nah I use Z-hop for prints with lots of overhangs that might curl up and get snagged by the nozzle. Never had a problem with it.

>>2511265
>decide to try running the old bowden tube through the pnuematic connector and widening it with a soldering iron on the other side to keep it from pulling back through
>figure I'll get at least a few prints out of it before it melts in my hotend while I wait on new connectors to arrive
>as I go to push the old, warped, charred, melted bowden tube that came stock with my printer through the connector, it catches in exactly the same place it used to always sit
>it's... it's home
>bowden tube doesn't wiggle loose
>printer is humming along without a care in the world despite nothing holding the bowden tube in the hotend other than the sluttiness of the stock bowden tube for the stock hotend

any advice on painting something like this? I was thinking start by painting the entire thing with the darkest color, than adding the lighter one in the next layers?

Best resin printer deals this cyber Monday?

>>2511870
Depends on what kind of details you want.
You can do a black primer then do lighter layers or do a white primer, add some base colors then do a 'wash' on it.
Go ask /tg/'s WIP thread or see if there's a painting thread or a 'questions that dont deserve their own thread' thread
INB4 thin your paints

Is there any reason to get this Creality Sonicpad other than if you can't get ahold of a raspberry pi? I have one of those Inovato $30 computers and 3D printed my own case/stand for an LCD screen I had laying around since like 2017 when I was doing projects with raspberry pis, it will basically do the same thing right? I don't even have a creality printer but I heard that you can get it to work on other models like my Anycubic Vyper and Prusa mini
>>2511454
Are you using Anycubic's resin? I started resin printing a couple of months ago and the base would snap off or I'd break something almost every single time until I swapped resins. I use Siraya Tech (sp?) and Phrozen's resins on my Photon Mono 4K and Sonic Mini 4k

>>2511900
This is the thing I'm talking about, but for $160ish dollars I don't think it's worth it at all but maybe I'm wrong?

>>2511900
>>2511901
you can octoprint on any linux capable device, an old phone, tablet, mini PC, anything.

>>2511438
I had that issue. Have you tried changing support density? I forgot what my default/original setting was, but I lowered it to 10%. Not too many issues releasing supports since.

>>2511438
Also try disabling support interface or support interface roof

How the fuck do you choose a resin? Most of the big brands people say are good, but what does it entail? I look at the phrozen resin and it seems good but its expensive as fuck, why?

>>2511900
>raspberry pi
just buy a fucking android box for $40 and install Octo4A

>>2511051
I don't know how to assemble my cr10. I don't know where to put the cables. The guide book isn't helpful, anybody know of a good video that explains the process step by step?

>>2512065
Just b urself

https://odysee.com/@airbornewolf:8/RF-Marines-use-a-3D-printer-to-convert-ordinary-UAVs-into-combat-ones

The last print went quite good and I guess I could clean up the mess inside and call the day, but...

The blobs (third bottom pic) are due to oozing, but I can't figure out how to fix it in any way. I tried several things. I'm using white Sunlu PLA, and I guess ther's no way to have spot on results with it. Formfutura it's another leve, but even geeetech is better.

What about the extrusion inconsistencyes in the thirs top pic? They are mostly in the lower part of the print and are concentrated in left part. I suspect it's due to the bending of the bowden tube that increase the drag. The issue is present also in the first and the second print, the one before tuning and new feede.

Any guess? Any tip?

>>2512141
What printer is that?

>>2512141

Isn't it more accurate to say that they're converting regular munitions into UAV-mounted ones? Observation has already been the more important function of aerial vehicles, so any camera-toting UAV is already capable of influencing warfare.
Anyway, all this bullshit you see online is misinformation, intelligence or propaganda. Basically the cost of the production is very slight, whereas the success of the mission could have immense impact in human lives. So you would certainly build two sets of UAVs built for different objectives, and then publicize the wrong one, in order to obfuscate the nature of the mission as long as possible. In this case maybe he is using PLA fins to repurpose conventional ordinance, but he's certainly not deploying them from a quad-copter. Nor is he wearing a bulletproof helmet to run prusaslicer.

>>2512144

>>2512152
>>2512144
Kingroon. Someone got mobilized with their 3D printer from home.

>>2512150
Solutions being developed near the front are far more responsive to the needs of the soldier than going through the bureaucracy of a design bureau.

Now that they have the STL file they can get some company in China to injection mold these parts.

>>2512152
>>2512153
>>2512144
Kingroon KP7

>>2512154
>Now that they have the STL file they can get some company in China to injection mold these parts.
And as soon as you invest into their tooling, you restrict yourself to one supply chain. You can't keep anything a secret. As soon as your design gets memorialized like fucking Jabba the Hutt in titanium, mysteriously some random asshole that does quality control will slip in the shower, or a boat carrying some additive will hit a coral reef somewhere. And you're left with a bunch of worthless bullshit. Either you relocate the entire Chinese company, or you can outsource the toolmaking itself. They already invested in the tooling and QC for the Bambu for example, so you're basically hedging your bets if you use one to make your army dildoes.

My printer has gone through 2 rolls in the past week without any failures. Nothing has gone wrong. Everything looks great.
I don't trust it.

gonna try some carbon fiber reinforced PETG, what should i expect? i'm hoping it prints something like normal PETG (flawlessly and just like PLA).

>>2512272
if you have anything less than a hardened steel nozzle, your small butthole will become the big butthole

>>2512028
That's what I posted in the picture, dude. I was just making sure there wasn't something about this stupid sonicpad that I wasn't aware of but it turns out it's just overpriced chink garbage like I thought.

>>2512287
>read only as far to reply with a snarky remark
Sometimes I think it's fate that I wound up in this shithole site with shit users.

>>2512284
even the feeder gear and bowden will get chewed up anything that filament touches on its way to being extruded, i had a pla filament guide that got a line grinded out of it before i realized printing glow in the dark shit and it even increased the chinesium "hardened steel" nozzle .1mm i maybe printed like 1/10 of a roll before prints started going to shit and afaik glownigger filament is the worst

My fremover $10 pla"+"filament has arrived.
For the price it's really hard to argue. The filament on the roll feels super stiff and shitty and like it'll break if you look at it wrong but it's been going on 6 hours now churning out gridfinity for my mom and the stuff that comes out looks good as anyone can ask for

>>2511848
The current state of the unholy arrangement. Print quality is down like 5-10% compared to before these troubles began, but I'm confident I can make them up.

>>2512141
Any idea on what laptop that is ? I kinda want one like that even though i never leave my office or workplace for anyhting whatsoever lmao.

>>2512364
dont use that sell out chep. That faggot made everything behind his sponsored login wall.
Try this guy instead
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdFGfWwfVYU

So I followed one of those videos to set up the flow rate and printed the cubes they want you to to test the prints with all the settings in Cura etc.
I have a 0.4mm nozzle and I am getting wall widths of like 0.88 while it should be 0.42-0.48 as per the videos I have seen so far. Its a new nozzle, printer is stock Ender 3v2 with stock firmware and gyver's UI.
>Where or what is fucking up ?

>>2512364
>cuck cube

>>2512376
Show me where the fuck to get calibration models from that motherfucker you linked or fuck right off.
I don't care about your e-drama. I just want to print shit. Give me a superior alternative to the generic chep cube or fuck right off.

>>2512381
I cucked your mom by banging your dad's mom. I bet you didn't even realize your family tree was a wreath.

>>2512380
Is it single walls? Because 0.44 x 2 = 0.88.
If you're printing two walls you'd expect widths of 0.84-0.96.
If not, there's a setting for extrusion volume that you can dial down, but you'd want to check your infill extrusion and more to see if all your lines are going down thick.

>>2512384
>Show me where the fuck to get calibration models from that motherfucker you linked or fuck right off.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4153051
There are literally hundreds of these, even Cura has a plugin that lets you print these to your heart's content.
OR
>https://www.yeggi.com/q/calibration+cube/
Other than the branding on one face, what advantages does it offer ? I dont see any.

>>2512386
I thought it is single walls. It should be anyway. I will print another one because if its just 2 walls being printed then yeah ok maybe I messed up the settings somewhere.

>slice small bracket
>slicer says 4 hours
>put in printer
>printer says 14 hours
maybe it's time to ease back on the ultra-quality preset with 25% cubic infill

>>2512392
When you ask for a certain wall count, the slicer usually gives you a bonus wall to hide the infill pattern. You can turn that off if you want, but I'm pretty sure that's what's going on here.

>>2512393
Estimated time is based on current speed (first layer is always slower), and how much g-code has been read vs. how much remains. That's it, and long straight moves use less g-code per minute than a bunch of tiny little detail moves, so that can also throw the estimate off if you are printing a statue with a lirge square base, for example. Generally the slicer's estimate is pretty spot on, unless you are running a pretty high acceleration to cheat the clock.

where do you guys get your filament?
i've been doing firearms stuff, and a lot of people use esun pla+ so that's just what i've been buying. i'm about to the point where i'll need to buy some more rolls. it seems good enough, i've not had any real complaints, but i also haven't noticed any huge difference between the esun rolls i bought and the 1kg of no-name chinese PLA that came with my printer.

>>2512150
Kek, is that flite test foamboard?

>>2512397
Yeah it's turning out about right, ±15 minutes. But Even 4 hours is a bit of a pain for something I want 6 of.
From what I see, reducing "print quality" just changes the layer thickness. But what does layer thickness do to print strength? These things are feet for speaker stands that used to have carpet spikes but are now on a hardwood floor (and getting a little rusty), so I'd prefer them to be reasonably strong. The things will slide over the ends of 1" iron square tubing, the indent is for optional adhesive rubber feet that I wouldn't trust to stick onto the ageing paint.

>>2511093
Disappointment and an empty wallet

>>2512425
>part broke trying to get it off
Well at least it fits. Going to add a 1.5mm fillet at one edge so I can more easily pry it off the bed.

>>2512425

I'm printing 4 copy of a 28 hours print. I cannot see any problem. Still faster than shipping from ecommerces other than amazon.

>>2512007
>but its expensive as fuck, why?
Because they think enough people will buy it at that price to maximize their profit. That's what underlies the price of nearly everything for sale everywhere.

1) how long do i have to rinse stuff in isopropyl for (vigourous shaking or do i really need one of those wash tanks)
2) if the suns uv is around 12, do i really need to get a uv chamber?

>>2512490
>how long do i have to rinse stuff in isopropyl for
Depends on how much resin needs to be removed, how viscous it is, and how the geometry of the part affects washing efficiency.

>vigourous shaking or do i really need one of those wash tanks
Can you do dishes in the sink, or do you need a dishwasher? Similar issues.

>if the suns uv is around 12, do i really need to get a uv chamber?
Situational. UV LEDS give low-energy UV that's enough to cure the resin without burning it. Some resins can discolor if exposed to the mix of higher-energy UV in sunlight before they're fully cured.

>>2512401
I posted my yellow chinkshit filament that's $10 a roll (10 roll minimum)

Got it from a place called fremover
There's another place that's called LLDmax I believe.

hey buddies, just popping into the thread to say that all of your 3d printing issues will be fixed eventually and we're all gonna make it into 3d valhalla
see you again, buddies

>>2512401
Microcenter, inland when they have a sale and I'm in the area.
Cheapest filament I've found where profiles work consistently.

>>2512506
There are more variables than i thought, but it seems a wash tank is truly optional, whereas a curing station may be required

>>2511744
stl? for research.

>>2511797
just awful how dare they

>>2511848
I have a dat gap and I've learned to push my filament forward to clear the wad before a swap.

>>2512065
>giggle CR10
>poke images
>really look at something for a change
try to brane anon, I have fafe in you you crayon eating retard.

>>2512268
why tf would you post this?

>>2512544
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5156975

>>2512329
I hate + filaments. + should be fucking banned because it's a goddamned crapshoot roulette every time.

>>2512376
That dude looks like a pedo

>>2512384
>I don't care about your e-drama

Start attacking other ppls moms. Are you retarded?

>>2512553
i thought the point is theyre held to higher quality control in addition to specialized additives sometimes

>>2512573
Technically grandmothers.

I would like to design and 3D print buttons that can be pressed by your feet.
Essentially plastic case, then maybe some felt on the inside, and a switch that gets activated.

So far I have looked at Sketchup then convert to STL, anyone have other suggestions for a complete beginner like me?

>>2512676

Fusion360

>>2512407
>foamboard
Is highest quality, lightweight core composite sandwich material. Extensively tested. Has high compressive strength yet is lightweight. You see the bubles? Those bubbles are not merely air pockets but indeed, a three-dimensional projection of a higher-order, multidimensional optimized lattice framework.
>>2512290
With the level of of ignorance here regarding basic physics. I'm surprised they haven't regurgitate their saliva and died.

>>2512425
>slide over the ends of 1" iron square tubing
I printed four of these things as temporary sliders for this cube I'm welding. 2*2 steel tube and it weighs ~120 lbs. It improved my quality of life dramatically because I don't have to bring the wheeled cart each time, which was super annoying wheeling it through narrow spaces. I just leave these skids on the fucker. Now the skids are starting to ablate and leave tiny PLA streaks on the concrete. I printed with 20% infill and 3 layers with a 0.6mm nozzle. The holes are for M6 bolts to grip the steel. Obviously I should have made it two pieces so it doesn't bow out due to creep.
For anything permanent I would want to print with ABS because it creeps the least. Otherwise it's just temporary. The materials you can print with are super soft and "print strength" doesn't exist. And if it breaks it's not going to tilt enough to crash the speakers to the floor so just use whatever settings you want. If it survives assembly then it's strong enough.

>>2512677
> $90/month
Are there tutorials etc? if you really think it is a good application I'll free trial it

>>2512688
u get some fucking hobbyist license for 0 shekels you goddamn ignoramus. do you not know how to use googleTM?

>>2512688
>Are there tutorials etc?
Yeah Fusion is huge, you can find tons of tutorials on youtube. Also it should be free, you're probably looking at a business license.

>>2512692
relax chicano, sure i'll do some of that. if they don't help me it's on you though

>>2512676
Haven't tried it but tinkercad is for beginners.
openScad is good if you have any programming experience. It's also free as in FOSS

>>2512676
post feet

You can only reply to this post if your main printer is at least 5 years old.

Do you see it, anons?

>>2512782
M-... Masaka...

>>2512786
You guessed it: Because there was an exterior surface adjacent to that layer inside the model, an entire ring of wall is missing and the model falls apart at that point.

Has science even figured out why this happens? It's goddamn annoying. I feel like it mostly happens at higher detail. I did a 0.2mm test run and the aperture turned out fine. I reprinted it at 0.12mm to make it prettier and this happened.

>>2512685
The main thing I actually care about is being a friction fit, it’s a mostly compressive load so strength past not splitting when being pushed on doesn’t matter much. Having it print on a slight angle though for aesthetic reasons might make it take longer to print, but the overhang doesn’t look bad so I think it’s fine.

Guess you printed that one sideways? Were the holes meant to be threaded into, or were there captive nuts? Creating threads is hard in google ketchup, but I think openSCAD can do them easily. Unlike fillets and chamfers.

>>2511359
it would be extremely unhealthy
anything that isn't platinum cure silicone is not suitable for a sex toy

>t. microbiologist fag

> everything for Windows or MacOS only
does anyone here use CAD 3d printing software on Linux?
I'm looking through this:
> https://all3dp.com/2/cad-software-for-linux-best-tools/
and it shows a bunch of mediocre stuff from LibreCAD to some interesting Haskell-type thing called ImplicitCAD

>>2512811
yes, the sideways holes are messy. With tap drill diameter (5mm holes for M6) with the layer lines it's guaranteed to cross-thread if you try to thread into PLA by hand. But very simple to fix with a drill bit. For other parts I used slots for captive nuts and that works fine too.
V2 to be printed from PETG, I will use the same part for top and bottom and just flip it when the bottom gets worn. More importantly, I finally made use of that piece of shit warp feature in the CAD software. It has a 5 degree bow

>>2512811
>Having it print on a slight angle though for aesthetic reasons
The best things for aesthetics: matte filament, fuzzy edge, small layer lines. If you look at that CF shit that they use for gun stocks, it looks really impressive. No obvious layer lines.
The other best thing for aesthetics is to stop caring. I thought weld beads looked ugly at first but now I only think they're ugly if they're bad welds. The same thing with prints will happen, eventually.

>>2512676
these are called pedals anon

>>2512516
>we're all gonna make it into 3d valhalla
without proper ventilation, you're not wrong

havent had one single miss print
>feelsgoodman

>>2512749
i think i'm coming up on 5 years pretty quick

>>2512749
what if it's 5 years old but I only bought it (new) 2 years ago?

>>2512790
>Has science even figured out why this happens?
3D printing has become accessible enough that retards can enjoy the hobby with zero experience, knowledge or fundamentals. You're stupid, that's not me being mean, that's just science!

>>2511359
3D print molds, cast dildos and you're golden.

>>2512688
>$90/month
It's free for hobbyists and startups making <$100k
Download the trial, open the app, go to your profile section and poke around to find the free subscription option

>>2512553
>>2512656
The additives raised the melting point and makes it easier to get results with a lousy setup. I don't get stringing this bad with [Inland] PETG+. Also I should probably tighten my belt L M A O

>>2512689
>>2512917
Only for 3 years. They changed the liscense terms last year.

I am sooo fucking pissed, since default save is cloud too...and so is converting from the defaut to step and stl files

>>2512914
Ok, so make me not stupid. Why does this happen?
It's not like the wall is extruded but fails to adhere because the previous layer had too much time to cool as the rest of the layer printed. There's not enough filament for it to have even tried to print the wall. So why does this happen?

>>2512917
360 is limited shit or expensive without limits.
Go to Titans of CNC and make an account and sign up for their "class".
Then you get a 1 year solidworks license for $20. It's full monte, but it'll put a watermark on your solidworks files.
If you just use it for converting to STL to 3dprint, then the watermark doesn't matter.
It's moreso if you try to sell the models online and they catch you.

>>2512930
https://www.cleverbridge.com/1566/purl-StudentEdition?prevUrl=https%3a%2f%2fwww.cleverbridge.com%2f1566%2fpurl-TITAN
forgot the link for solidwerks

still trying to decide best support pattern

>>2512933
Gyroid

Cause funny noises on non silent boards

>>2511051
Looking to build a IDEX Direct Drive printer here at some point. What would be the cheapest way to do a ~300mm * ~300mm * < 300 mm printer? Buy a cheap printer, say a CR-10, and mod the fuck out of it, or build one from scratch?
I want something better than my direct drive ender v2, in nearly every way. Already planning on doing generic bondtech + pancake steppers + Slice Copperheads for the direct drive setup.

>>2512935
my printer screeches and shit il have to try this

>>2512922
It changed from 1 year to 3 years. You can still renew it. source: reddit don't @ me

>>2512933
anything that isnt jew stars who wants to make a patch for swastika and sunwheel infill patterns? or maybe an plugin that lets you import a vector graphic as an infill pattern

>>2512933
Rectilinear for simplicity.
Aligned rectilinear for transparent filaments.
Gyroid if you intend to pour anything into the print body.
Lightning or that alternative cube pattern if you're trying to minimize internal support material.

>>2512902
No not a pedal, I mean a toe stud.
Since making that post I figured out how to make basic shapes on implicitCAD.
But I am lost on how to incorporate that basic shape outline into some kind of electrical switch so it would be able to function as a button

This thread contains 32 fucks, now 33

>>2511051
>I'm An Engineer For Fucks Sake edition
Your cad software can make the collage just the same as photoshop, silly willy.

>>2512987
Can you explain how a toe stud works? I don't really understand what the felt does.

A common method for incorporating a button is to choose an off-the-shelf cheapie tactile switch, put it on a PCB fitted to the bottom housing, and design the actuator to slot neatly atop the nub of the button. Ensuring that the PCB is well-supported right beneath the button. Tactile switches have really short travel and are momentary though, you may well be best off choosing a different kind of switch for the following specs:
>actuation force
>hysteresis / detent
>actuation travel
>axial strength
>resilience to sideways forces
>ingress protection
>mounting method
>dimensions
>momentary vs latching
>electrical capabilities
I'd likely lean towards something that screws into a panel with a circular hole and a nut on the backside, that way you don't need a PCB.
Stomp-box switches could be great, so long as they're not too large. They are kinda expensive.

If you want to make your own electrical switch, there are a few options. One is to just use a binary hall-effect sensor and a magnet, that way you can get zero detent. Same for optical, you can buy off-the-shelf photointerrupter setups, or just buy LEDs and phototransistors to make your own.
Spring-loaded metal contacts would be great, but also difficult to diy without making something that work-hardens and breaks, you may end up trying to fasten a contact on a wire to a spring, with some sort of end-stop for the spring.

>>2512994
Aw, fuck, you're right...

>>2512790
Jesus
Wept

>>2513013
Everything seems to be in order here. Surely nothing to worry about.

>>2513015
time to get a new gear i dont thing theres supposed to be a filament sized groove there!

>>2513015
The trouble seems to be starting in this section.

>>2513015
>>2513020
Forgot analysis. That will be $200 to fix it.

>>2513000
>hysteresis
You dare utter this profanity?

>>2513017
I investigated and it turns out the groove is an illusion created by all the filament dust clogging up the gear everywhere the filament doesn't squeeze it out of the way. The gear is fine. It's just gnawing on my filament like a pitbull with a toddler's face in its mouth.

>>2512930
> It's moreso if you try to sell the models online and they catch you.
P sure that’s only relevant if you share the solidworks format files. If you save as a step or igs file I don’t think that’s possible.
For solidworks files though, on top of whatever bullshit they can pull from the file that identifies you the, every feature is time stamped and has the name of the account that made it so even the normal user can figure out which retard before you is terrible at their job.

>>2513017
>>2513044
Still baffled that my photos don't look blurry until I upload them...
One thing that's off about the gear is it's higher than it should be. Somehow it's experiencing some upwards force that's pulling it up the shaft even though the screws don't seem to be slipping in the horizontal direction.

>>2513021
I'm learning the ropes on this $99 machine so I can upgrade to a $1500 printer and feel like a god.

>>2513045
>If you save as a step or igs file I don’t think that’s possible.
I think you're overanalyzing the watermark. When I volunteered at a workshop, I left the watermarks in all my exports (dxf drawings etc.), just as a betalord reminder that I wasn't getting paid. It's not computer hacker backtracing shit, more like people not knowing how to use computers, and expecting me to do 12 hours of design work like it's nothing. I mean, I learned a lot, but if I'm operating at a loss then there's no fucking way I'm letting somebody else profit from the same shit work.

>>2511191
I plan on printing parts that would allow me to convert a PS90 trigger pack into a P90 trigger pack that would be capable of firing fully automatically.

>>2513047
What I was talking about is basically never relevant for normal use, and for drawings specifically, you can just delete any watermarks from a different dxf viewer/editor. Just nothing that if you're dumb enough to be selling shit using a student license and send the Solidworks format files there is a non zero amount of risk.
DAssault has a bit of a rep for harassing people if they manage to find them pirating or using student stuff commercially, and while it is relatively easy to get around it, there are definitely retards out there that do not bother.
This has basically zero relevance to anyone using it just for 3d printing though

What type of material would be ideal for 3D printing gun parts like this P90 front sear?

It took a year of learning and playing around, but I finally know how to make some beautiful prints off my ender 3 v2 clone. I know should have bought a prusa. I had so many problems with just about everything. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now.

>>2513059
I know this doesn't show up the same on my iPhone camera as real life, but there are these beautiful lines throughout this print. What are these things? And how can I make sure all my prints have them. You can't feel them. Outside is smooth.

>>2513058
PEEK

>>2513067
I ordered some TAULMAN3D Alloy 910. Will this be good enough?

>>2513059
>>2513065
>itoddler
figures

>be me
>bad dragon engineer
>every thot with an ender 3 can now make their own 10 inch horse dildo
Anyone else here worried about 3d printing killing their profession?

>>2513033
Mechanical, not electrical. Don't worry, your precious electrons aren't getting shaken about by the switch's detent. That's what the bounce is for.

>>2513072
Figures what? I did the whole android thing. Ran cyanogenmod on the first phone. The G1. Didn't switch to the iPhone until the 6S+ because I got sick of Android ram issues. So you don't know what you are talking about.

Didn't know anything about 3D printers. First month my Voxelab Aquila blow out the board because I crossed the power to a thermistor accidentally. Struggled and changed the board over to a Mini E3 v2. At a time when few people did that. So yeah I've struggled like hell the past year to get good prints. Just fixed two fans that weren't working right.

>>2513065
The hexagonal pattern? Isn't that just support showing?

Neat, there's all 6 feet printed. Here's the underside of the (frankly kinda shitty) speaker stands. Added stick-on rubber feet that wouldn't have sticked to the flaking paint on the underside of the steel square tube.

>>2513092
And here's the TV setup, with old amp, and speakers now at a decent height. Can't help but notice the TV being off-centre. Maybe there's something I can make to hold the TV in place in event of an earthquake that looks better than that packing tape, like some brackets to hold an adjustable strap.

if you started again, what slicer would you learn on? i've been using cura for a couple months and it seems fine but everyone has an opinion on every other slicer.

>>2513098
Idk man, been using prusaslicer for a month and it comes across as if you can get good prints without diving deep into it. Feels like I could pick up any slicer in an hour or two. Wish I could say that for CAD. I mean OpenSCAD was that easy, but that's not a good thing.

>>2513098
I've used Prusaslicer on Prusa printer for three years and see no reason to use anything else.
It just works.

>>2511747
Check humidity. Maybe your filament just soaking with water.

Ever since I added a CR touch and wham bam magnetic PEX bed to my printer

> create UBL bed mesh with probe
> run print task (incl. Initial 3 point Auto tilt)
> adjust z-offset while printer prints priming lines and skirt, need to make a big adjustment every time
> print prints fine
> after bed cools down, effortlessly pick up part which detached itself, no need to use force
> start next print (3 point auto tilt, as always)
> z-offset is all wrong, need to readjust it a ton again
> every 4 to 5 prints remake the full mesh and notice significant changes

Why is my z offset always wrong?
(I save the settings, it just seems like the damn bed swells and shrinks randomly depending on the moon phase, I always print at the same temp)
Why does the bed mesh look a bit different every time?

I thought this setup would allow nearly "fire and forget" printing when it comes to initial layer bullshit and z offsets, what am I missing?

Is this normal? Above and below the holes there is no layer shifting. Dual Z axis is perfectly level and not binding. What's going on?

>Printer make & model
Ender 3 V2 w/dual Z axis stepper motors.
>Filament type/brand
Overture PLA Professional
>Slicer & slicer settings
Cura 5.2.1
.20mm resolution
205/215 hotend
60/65 bed

>>2513196

>>2513103
>OpenSCAD was that easy, but that's not a good thing.
Why not?

>>2513196
Here's another example. I'm pretty sure my Z axis is spot on. Is this just a slicer nuance???

>>2513209
smaller area = less shrinkage, maybe

>>2513196
Further magnification

>>2513218
It's driving me bonkers lol. Functionally and dimensionally they are perfect, but they just look ugly.

>>2513195
The CR Touch is great, but ppl saying it's set and forget is wrong and misleading. You still have to manually level the bed from time to time. The CR touch only compensates for the minor variations caused by a bowed or warped build plate.

>>2513196
One idea is that small features are printed slower. At high speeds exruder might be slipping just a bit. But at slower speeds it is not. Therefore it extrudes more material.
Try printing everything at the same speed. Check in the gcode viewer.

>>2513235
Thanks. I'll definitely check that out. I've calibrated my extruder steps, but never thought about print seed. Think a flow rate adjustment would help?

>>2513092
well, it doesn't look terrible. Actually it looks pretty good, considering the white molding and without the feet the black stands would merge with the brown floor and look like mud.. Whether or not it was necessary to attach the rubber feet (you could have just used sandpaper and epoxy) the silver was a good choice.

>>2513092
>>2513094
also, resize your images, you friggin' caveman, nobody wants to see that many bytes from your piece of shit samsung phone. I shudder to think what the audio quality must be like.

>>2513196
>is this normal?
yes

>>2513068
Not if you expect it to not creep.

>>2513059
Should have bought a bambu

>>2513059
lol why do people have so much trouble with the Ender? I was making flawless prints literally day one with my Ender 3 Pro, with the bone stock Cura profile. It's still pumping out flawless prints to this very day.

>>2513292
I also ordered some POM (Delrin or Acetal). Would this be good enough? I've been told that this is the material that is used in P90 trigger packs.

>>2513299
What printer are you printing this on?

>>2513303
I've never done any 3D printing before. I've ordered an Ender 3 V2 with a Bondtech BMG-M Extruder, a Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit, and a Creality CR Touch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Kit.

>>2513298
people have various expectations of flawless

>>2513307
Jesus christ.
Can't tell if troll or if genuine retard.
Print a boat out of PLA before you start down the path of exotic filaments.

>>2513307
You are in for a world of hurt if you try to install, tune all that shit, print nylon, all on a shitty Ender 3, with no 3d printing experience on day 1

>>2513313
I'm not retarded, anon. I'll rewatch the installation videos for those parts and carefully read the instructions immediately beforehand.

Really digging the new Sovol SV05. Half the price of an Ender 5 and its basically the same machine.

>>2513307
>Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit
Imagine overpaying for suffering.

>>2513319
I can still cancel the order. Which hotend kit should I get?

>>2513320
play around with the stock creality components for a bit.
You buy things as you need them.
Who in their right mind spends 50% the price of a printer on "upgrades" just because some cunt of a youtuber posted affiliate links?

>>2513321
I plan on using this to print gun parts. I want those parts to come out as precisely as possible, and I want those parts to be as strong as possible. If there is a better hotend kit, please let me know. I just ordered some PLA to play around with, since it's much cheaper.

>>2513320
Phaetus Dragonfly BMS is the best Ender compatable hotend out there.

Next best is a Micro Swiss clone from Trianglelab.

Also the Bondtech BMG is a little outdated. You want the LGX.

>>2513238
>Think a flow rate adjustment would help?
I would just test printing everything at the same speed (or even better: the same volumetric flow rate). Perimeters, external, small perimeters, infill etc. All of it. This ensures constant flow of plastic and pressure in the nozzle, and hopefully consistent feeding of filament. If your slicer doesn't support it, prusa slicer also has gcode viewer, where you can view gcode from other slicers and check Volumetric flow rate.
For the test don't adjust anything else. If it under or overextrudes it shouldn't matter as long as it is consistent everywhere.

>>2513326
>Phaetus Dragonfly BMS
This one is actually a little cheaper than the Micro Swiss.

>>2513322
Get it through that thick skull of yours, 3d printing has two components to it that determine the mechanical properties of a part.
One is the filament itself, but equally as important is the quality of the individual print. Figure out how to properly set up your machine and evaluate prints before you start downloading things from the gatalog thinking it's just push a button and play.
You are not printing PEEK/PEI/POM on an ender 3. 910 needs an an actively heated chamber or parts designed in a way that they don't warp in a passively heated and well insulated enclosure.
Save your money on buying the upgrade parts and get yourself a decent set of calipers.

>>2513337
>thinking it's just push a button and play.
I'm not this retarded. I'm going to be doing hours of research into everything 3D printing related. I've got this website saved in case I get any problems, and I've ordered a 3D printing reference manual.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>>2513340
Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
You're trying to print parts with materials that need 270+C on the nozzle when most printers ship with thermistors good for about 250C. Maybe stock ones have gotten better since, but point being if you've got money to spend and are interested in those materials you would be better off with a different printer than attempting to build an ender into something that has the capabilities you're looking for.

>>2513344
>Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
Why would it catch on fire? I've played with pretty hot soldering irons before, and I've got a hot air station that's capable of 500C. Also, I already have the Ender in transit to my house, but which printer would you recommend? I also figure I need to upgrade the thermistor, but which one should I get for the Ender 3 V2? Would I need to make any software modifications? I've heard that these machines limit the nozzle temperature to 250C.

What's a good gcode resource?
I want to add support for Flashforge Adventurer 3 to MatterControl as I heard it's just a dozen initializing lines that need to be added (or swapped) and want to be sure I know what I'm doing.

>>2513340
Do you have a set of calipers?

>>2513352
I've considered buying one, but I figure I'd need to spend another $100 for an acceptable pair. If a $30 torque wrench is a piece of shit, then a $10 or $20 pair of calipers must also be a piece of shit.

>>2513353
>wants to use printer for firearm parts.
>doesn't have calipers
>buys meme mods and fancy materials that will sit unused/be wasted on a poorly tuned/incapable printer.
>is not a retard.
in the US msc/amazon(check vendor) both have genuine Mitutoyos 6" AOS for like $120.
But this is home 3d printing. You don't need a nist cert or hurr dhurr made in japan(brazil) tier accuracy. Look into igaging 6" for something under $50. We work with 1%+-0.5mm on prints for dimensionally stable materials out of printers like these.

>>2513351
https://linuxcnc.org/docs/devel/html/ is a start but don't know how it relates specifically to 3D printing. Any specific feature you're after with MatterControl?

>>2513365
Basically, I just want to print a P90 hammer and front sear. This is what would be needed to give a PS90 hammer pack the functionality of a P90 hammer pack. I was thinking about ordering calipers if I ever want to clone my own gun parts. For example, I haven't seen any files for the selector. You can readily buy P90 selectors, although they're overpriced, so I thought I'd make some measurements and try to make my own clones. I'd also make sure to upload the files online.

>>2513366
why yes! for a matter of fact it's a feature of always running the perimeter in a fixed direction while still having infill. Don't know of any other slicer with that option.

>>2513367
>P90 hammer and front sear
For what you're trying to do, look into cf-nylon. You really want to get that notch in the right location, so get your measurements right.

>>2513375
These two file packs will help me out. They've got the two parts I need.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3872058
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4088032

>>2513204
Because it's really limited in other ways (no chamfering), and just tedious and slow to model with.

>>2513000
the felt is just so there is no clank/thud when the button reaches its full range of motion.

This is a photo of the mechanism on a conventional stud, when the toe stud is pressed, it meets resistance by a spring, and the main bowl comes into contact with the 2 metal forks, which connect to the 12V cables and send the required signal.

I don't have to do it the way it's done in the photo, just any switching method that can send that 12V signal. Has to travel at most 1-2 metres. In American the dimensions of the square frame are around 2 inches by 2 inches.

>>2513326
Might as well just get a lightweight extruder like the sherpa-mini or orbiter

whats the max temp a stock ender3pro can go with a bimetal (all metal) hot end? think the firmware is locked at 250 can i up that on a firmware and get better? without changing out anything

>>2513442
Something like 290 with the stock thermistor. Even though an all-metal hotend can go higher, you need to replace the thermistor with something like a PT100 in order to print hotter.

PT100 or PT1000 requires adding a MAX31865 board to use.

>>2513453
Not that anon but what about a TK500? I know it needs a small board which I have but even so I heard it's not compatible with any Creality boards. Is that true?

>>2513298
Ender 3 has the shittiest quality checks because they know you're going to upgrade it anyways.
They don't have to care z they just need enough okay units to send to fucks like you who try to make a case when it's obvious the ender platform is utter shit

>>2511703
>Get the sovol SV06 while it's $229
you can't actually get it tho right?
it's just on presale, it's like, over a month until it ships.

is there any way to combat humidity? All my files, pliers and knives next to my printer are covered in rust. I dare not to guess what happened to the filament in my closet

>>2513494
Uhmmmmm...

A dehumidifier???

>>2513494

>>2513494
>All my files, pliers and knives next to my printer are covered in rust
you might have a bigger problem than moist filament.

how hard would it be to make your own filament? you can buy sacks of PLA/ABS/PETG for super cheap on alibaba.
it seems like it might be a fun project to do, but can you actually get repeatable quality?

>>2513494
>All my files, pliers and knives next to my printer are covered in rust
You must be in a meth lab or some other kind of environment where hydrogen peroxide or sodium chloride are constantly being made in gaseous form. Steel will rust but nothing about a 3D printer accelerates rust. Unless you left your printing setup completely abandoned for 6+ months you shouldn't be seeing surface rust.

look ma
i'm designing things

>>2513531
no experience myself but the fact that no one seems to be able to find great success in recycling prints seems to imply its kind of difficult

>>2513531
Various things can go wrong in my opinion.
https://www.instructables.com/Build-your-own-3d-printing-filament-factory-Filame/?amp_page=true
If you were to copy this design there are things like the auger jamming or providing insufficient plastic; which would lead to the extruded filament coming out too thin, air pockets in the filament, or worse, the plastic could build up in the heated end leading to burnt plastic that could make it's way into your filament destroying your printer if it got to it or clogging the filament making machine which would require disassembly and cleaning. I've never built one though so I'm just speculating
I'm sure it can be done but it's going to be more hassle than it's worth

>>2513555
i think that sounds reasonable enough.
i imagine that one issue is that filament isn't all that expensive, even 25$ a kilo is not that bad. considering the cost of a machine, grinding (or buying granules), extruding, then spooling.

>>2513562
yeah i saw that one and a dude in the comments even mentions it, a drill pulls material out of the cut, and an auger does the same thing, so you'd want a different design to actually feed material into the heater. you can buy that shit on alibaba or whatever, but you'd just need something different.

i think a problem is that it's a big thing. it's not a little box you put on a shelf. it would take up a lot of physical space. you'd probably need to do a lot of work yourself to come up with a design, if you aren't machining parts.
but thinking about the precision of the extruded plastic; even if you got a pretty shitty product, you could pull that through another die and get a better one. maybe going from bulk granules, to a thicker tube (maybe 3mm or something), then pull that again to get your 1.75mm filament.
i just want someone else to do the legwork for me so i don't have to go through the process of figuring it all out. but it SEEMS simple, maybe i'm just ignorant.

anyone given this a shot? i already have a volcano block, but the guy gets pretty good results out of just running a longer nozzle, and a little better by putting some M6 nuts on it for more heat capacity. makes sense. the bottleneck for melting plastic is contact time.

https://youtu.be/_Soz8z-vAIw

>>2513314
Better watch the install video for an enclosure then, because fancy filament does not like printing out in the open.

>>2512938
Just bought a busted Sidewider as the basis for my build. Going to go with the Slice Engineering LGX Lite extruders w/copperhead now.
Is the Copperhead "z-height adjustment feature" as simple as moving the heatbreak up or down, by loosening the retaining grub screw?
Couldn't I just do that w/ a stock mk8 heatsink?
Also, any other decent options for all-metal hotends, for use w/ dual extrusion?

Printing a die set to bend a firearm receiver. I'm not confident enough to say but I have some questions about the settings the guy uses.
Like, it's printed vertically, but the stress from the press is going to be parallel to the layer lines. Wouldn't it be better to print it "as it's going to be used", with the large flat side on the bed? Or maybe it's more dimensionally accurate in a vertical orientation and is strong enough in compression anyway?

Also, the print settings are kind of ludicrous, taking a little over 3 days for all the parts for the die. I figure it could be optimized somehow but I'm not experienced enough to know what matters.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4614385

>>2513637
Just print in ABS. Flow is more often limited by your material and cooling than the hotend

>>2513685
>0.16mm
lolwut

Why do you need to print at 0.16mm? Print at 0.32mm if you have a 0.4mm nozzle and print at 0.8mm width or even 1.2mm if your printer can handle

>>2513713
I figure the guy who originally made the model just took results from people's layer height tests for tensile strength, because something around 0.15mm layer height is often where tensile strength begins to fall off.
there's not a ton of information from people bending sheet steel with PLA dies/jigs.
but i think i'm wrong about printing it vertically (with the compressive force normal to the bed) because the punch will push outwards on the inside of the cup and it'll shear the thin edges of the die.

intuitively though it seems like if i print in the vertical orientation like in
>>2513685
it makes sense to me that i could up the layer height without consequence, because there's fucking zero tensile stress affecting layer adhesion. the only concern is splitting between the layers from compression.

>>2513390
>Has to travel at most 1-2 metres
Centimetres? If so that's a tough ask for an existing switch, though still look into stomp-box / guitar pedal foot switches, they travel maybe 1cm or so.

So you could use a compliant 3D printed form of some sort (e.g. a spiral) to act as a spring while holding a contact, but for longevity and strength I'd still opt for an existing switch. A rubber membrane or other compliant piece would be easier to make last. If you went for hall-effect or optical instead of mechanical (may need a transistor if switch current is high, external power probably required) then you wouldn't have to worry about selecting contacts that can handle being bent. Then again, if you design the rubber compliant pieces right you could likely get away with it. For the contacts themselves, I'd want to use something plated in something hard and corrosion resistant, like nickel, or otherwise just use metal that's already good enough for that like stainless or brass. Thin brass stock would be relatively easy to cut into strips for such a purpose, though dimensional accuracy may matter.

Here's a possible design:

Just got an anycubic vyper. It works aside from L z axis motor not working when auto leveling. The other side works but cand bring it all down with 1 motor. But they both work fine when home positioning. Would that be a software issue? Should I take it apart and see if the chinks installed it wrong? It is never simple is it.

>>2513891
Auto leveling the z axis or auto leveling the bed? Only 1 motor needs to run to level Z axis. The L side is the zero point and it adjusts the R side to the left. When auto homing both motors would obviously run the gantry up and down.

>>2513891
I'm not familiar with anycubic; does it use endstop switches or is it switchless for homing?

>>2513898
I would have to look into it after work. But the r axis tries to turn but binds. It does move when I manually spin the l axis threads. Possibly not any lube on the gears. I just got it last night.

>>2513891
Is it properly plugged in?
Are the Z steppers independent, or on a splitter cable?
If you're going to fuck witht he stepper wiring make sure power's off. easiest way to kill a stepped driver.

>>2512528
>a curing station may be required
UV light is what's required. That doesn't have to be in the form of a "station" though that's a convenient form factor to have it in. You could just shine a blacklight at it.

Can anyone explain what is the difference between those two types of nozzles?

When should I use one or another?

>>2513952
Also ignore the 1.0 and 0.6 size. The question is about the shape.

>>2513952
Use the one on the right for better penetration in your build plate, and the one on the left if you only want to penetrate a little ways.

>>2513952
https://3dprinterly.com/mk6-vs-mk8-vs-mk10-vs-e3d-v6-differences-compatibility/

>>2512919
some additives. + just means "something besides PLA" it's not the same thing in every + and isn't always better.

>>2513952
they go in different heating blocks.
they have the same thread pitch, just one is longer than the other. it's meant for a different design of heating block.
although
>>2513637

>>2513296
uh, bambu bros I prereserved the carbon for $55 and it was supposed to be ready December 5th. It's the 2nd and I haven't heard anything. When am I going to get billed?

My printer fucking sucks how do I fix this

>>2513993
You will need a goat and some red paint.

>>2513952
Left is a V6 nozzle that works with V6 blocks and some others.
Right is a Mk8 nozzle for use with the Mk8 blocks that come standard on Enders and other low cost machines.

>>2513987
probably december 5th

>>2513987
Is this Rin?

>>2513987
>When will my pre-order be shipped?
>Your orders will be shipped out from the local warehouse after the 3-day final payment collection period. Shipping priority is determined by the order of deposit payment in each store.

first ABS. how much do I need to clean up the white support artifacts before acetone smoothing? how long for smoothing in a vapor bath?

Hello boyos. I'm having this weird thing happen where the base of this calibration cube can't come out right. I'n using pla+. In the first case I did 215 nozzle and 70 bed, after that I did 210 and 60. Any pointers? Thanks

>>2514011
You're running too hot on the bed.
What temperature are you running for your first few layers?
The weird glitch is a purge line. Ensures that any weirdness is out of your nozzle before it starts printing, as a skirt doesn't always clean/load filament properly.

>>2514017
The ender 3 keeps it steady at 210 for the nozzle and 60 for the bed. The entire print is made at those temperatures, I think. Thanks for the info on the purge line, was freaking me out a little.

Got a Saturn 2 for $500 yesterday should arrive next week. Did I make a good choice for my first printer? I chose resin for the smoothness of the prints.

>>2514031
how come nobody ever talks about peopoly resin printers?

>>2514042
booba

How many years are we away from appliance grade printers. ie you plug it in and it works perfect every time.

>>2514071
there are, just way more expensive. Popular designs try to overcome cheap mechanics with tricks and cheap electronics. Example, the need of a bed leveler means that something is wrong with your bed, which is usually not addressed even after many years

>>2514071
About as close as we are to a plug and play CNC mill.
The only way we're bound to get a plug and play printer is if it's heavily controlled in both the materials that it prints with and the files that it prints.
i.e. you can print this trinket from the campany's catalog with the company's provided settings.

>>2514081
>i.e. you can print this trinket from the campany's catalog with the company's provided settings.
Adding to this, I think Prusa tried doing this by having people upload their gecode meant for stock prusa printers on files uploaded to the prusa repository of files.
Unfortunately gcode can be used for malicious operation of a printer and if I recall correctly it all went horribly wrong. Mostly due to a very large portion of people that don't run stock prusas and the lack of consistency in the filament/environment the open air printers operate with/in.

>>2514081
10 years ago I could do that in the office with a stratasys one, it was proprietary consumables, including dissoluble support material but I could upload whatever design I wanted.

>>2514010
Just trim off anything that's not supposed to be there with an exacto knoife, then give it 30-45 minutes in the gas chamber since that looks pretty small.

>>2514042
Try going to /tg/'s 3dpg, they do mostly resin printing over there

>>2514085
Surprised hardware interrupting limit switches aren't present on both sides of all 3 axes. Tried messing with custom G-code from laser-cutting software and it slammed my X axis hard against the limit of travel and stalled the motor for a couple of seconds while I found the power switch. Then just add hardware temperature limits on the bed and nozzle and malicious/nonspecific g-code is a non-issue.

>>2513536
>6+ months before surface rust
If only. I've bought this knife two weeks ago and it's already getting rusty

Just wanted to share, I installed the direct drive extruder to my pro and its decided to melt through my printing surface. Hopefully the test print comes out well.

>>2514144
Should have bought a bambu

NEW THREAD

>>2514198
>>2514198
>>2514198
>>2514198

>>2513843
>4chan fridge magnets

>>2513843
you can spell ginger with that but I wouldn't, I hear those people don't like that word.

>>2513390
you can buy a 12v lever switch if you're so inclined, I used to use them for hood and trunk switches in my vehicles. but essentially that's just metal touching metal. traveling 1-2 meters irrelevant at the amps you're dealing with and would dictate wire size nothing else. first come up with a mechanism you like and can print (print in place spring would be my choice) and then it's just putting two bits of metal that contact on depression, or in your pics case a 3rd that contacts both.

>>2513554
pls post chad cock

Are there and 3D printing master classes out there? I would like to learn everything there is to 3D printing through a video course.

>>2511051
Can someone explain the right side of the settings to me please
Why are there two fucking values

>>2514011
That line it extrudes to the left is just a prime line. It does it to try to remove blobs and junk off the nozzle before it starts printing in earnest. It's normal.

How should I interpret this temperature tower? 230C at the bottom, 5C lower each step up. 195C and 200C are tied for first place visually but none of the bridges are acceptable.

Prime Value PLA, Ender 3 plus, sliced on Cura 5.2.1.

TLDR, what setting do I change to make bridges work again?

>>2515262
shit gets put on in layers. your are welcome.

>>2515262
3d printing is one of the few places I've found fail fast and fail often to be a viable strategy, especially if you have multiple printers.

>>2515848
There's a thick bridges setting in prusaslicer. I'd start by looking for a setting like that in cura

>>2515926
There is an option to adjust "flow", ie how much more or less than 100% of normal extrusion width it should do. I haven't played with that yet. There's also an option to treat three layers above a bridge as it they're still a bridge, which was already on. I did find the advice to lower bridging speed, which seemed counterintuitive but did help a lot. I set it to 10mm/s and got a still awful but at least functional bridge at 200C, I'll play around with the speed and flows tomorrow.
I'm not planning any prints that require bridging, but I am planning a huge print that will require a lot of supports, so I figure it's best to tune everything to perfection before I start that.

Using tree supports instead of normal ones shaves three days and one kilogram of plastic off this godawful print. Is there any compelling reason I shouldn't do it? I've panned around the print and everything that needs support looks supported (tree support misses out a few 4mm holes, but realistically even if those print as ovals I can ream them out with a drill).

>>2515942
Oops, noticed a blunder. I'll be printing this in ABS, not PLA, in case that matters for the supports.

>>2515942
>Long straight and thin walls.
>no actively heated chamber
>multiple day print.
>ABS.
pic related. Even if it doesn't tear itself apart during printing it'll be too soft and delicate to really do anything with it. Consider PLA or petg, or modifying you construction so it uses 3d printed parts for joinery and made out of sheetmetal/acrylic/wood.

>>2515951
>no actively heated chamber
>multiple day print.
>ABS.
I have a cardboard "enclosure" I DIYed last time I printed ABS, it worked fine. I just put the printer on the basement floor, start the print, lower the cardboard around it, and have a little webcam with a light inside to monitor it via octoprint. I haven't printed anything this big in ABS before, but I'll at least try it.
Fallback plan is PETG, but this will be a computer case so ideally I'd like something that can handle 70+ degrees for hours at a time, thus why I'm trying ABS first. In theory it should never get hotter than about 50C so even PLA should be fine, but ABS will handle gaming all day on a hot summer day without shrugging so that's going to be my priority.
>Long straight and thin walls
Only in places. The side facing the camera is 5mm thick and the top bars (the side facing left in the picture) are 20mm squares. I think it'll be rigid enough. Even the thinnest walls are 2mm thick and aren't load bearing, they're just there to brace between the internals and the exterior panels.
>Even if it doesn't tear itself apart during printing it'll be too soft and delicate to really do anything with it
>made out of sheetmetal/acrylic/wood
This is just the frame that all the internal components mount to. It'll have a metal radiator bolted to the front (top in the picture) which will make that side super rigid, a motherboard bolted to the side facing right in pic, and the left side won't have any load on it. I'm going to make a front+top panel out of aluminium andside panels out of ~5mm thick wood panels. Each exterior panel will bolt to the frame in four places, which should give a bit of extra rigidity.

Yeah, this will be the hardest print I've ever done. I've got two fresh rolls of ABS for some tuning and retries if it fails early enough, otherwise I'll do PETG instead. If that also fails I could build a support frame out of 10mm aluminium square profiles, but that's basically a complete redesign.

So I'm shit out of luck if I've got a Phaetus dragon and it gets damaged? i.e. new heatbreak, replacement support tubes, or somehow manage to damage the heater block?
I was seriously hoping for this to be the last hotend I ever purchased, and for the better part of a year it has been.
>>2515966
Print a benchy out of abs. Whether or not you have a bowline will determine if you can do this.
Also consider a 0.6mm nozzle.

>>2515942
>>2515966
>If that also fails I could build a support frame out of 10mm aluminium square profiles, but that's basically a complete redesign
This should be your plan A. Redesign this thing so you can insert aluminium profiles through the edges of the frame, if you can figure out a way to bolt things directly into them that's even better. That way even if you print it in PLA it will be tougher than if you printed your current design in ABS and miraculously didn't fail hilariously.

>>2515966
The reason you want to avoid tall and long straight thin walls on ABS is one you won't have given much thought until after you fail at it.
Consider pic related. Yes it's slightly underextruded, but also consider the effect that a shrinking layer has, then compound it over several dozens of layers. Think of each shrinking layer as a cable tensioning the layer beneath it, then a further tensioned cable is added on top of it. The more layers directly on top each other the worse it gets. The longer the straight path in the x-y plane the line is the worse it will be.
Compound the geometry, the height, the temperature gradient that will form, and the shrinkage of the material and this would be risky to build in a properly heated chamber.

>>2515981
If you want a test before you go and waste days of your life try priting link related with a 200% z strech in the slicer.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2739200

>>2515968
>>2515972
>>2515981
All right, I'll rethink this. I can probably design it as a bunch of hollow prints that fit aluminium inside. Two rectangular frames of aluminium profiles linked at each corner with more aluminium profiles or something. That way I shouldn't have to print taller than a few centimetres out of ABS, and I know for a fact I can do that because I've done it before.

What causes this?

>>2515942
the only problem I've found with tree supports in cura is the tree support distance being too large on default for thicker layer height. pic related is exaggerated. you can set the z position to just below some edges having half the model under the bed and slice just the top to quickly get to the supports and see if they work as intended, so print for 30mm or so from 15mm below a few ledges then stop the print and check your quality.

>>2515983
>stretching something you could make faster in fusion3d

>>2515981
>vase mode how does it work
also
>not mathing your sides to be 2x line of extrusion thicc

>>2516006
a tiger napped on your print

>>2516009
>thinking I'm going to model, export as stl, find a place to upload, and link to it my post.
You overestimate the amount of effort I'm willing to put into helping out people on this site. Also can't assume that everyone know how to cad, even simple shit like that. Something like the linked stl will replicate the issue with ABS that I am referring to.

>>2516006
Touching yourself at night. Could also be varying filament diameter, poorly tuned pressure advance, poorly tuned e-steps/z offset, warped bed, or eccentric extruder drive.
If your bed's flat then start looking into your flow parameters/hardware.

>>2515938
speeds on bridging are usually lower. You don't want the extruded string to break when bridging. The important thing is that it catches the other end and sticks. Lower temps might be better so it solidifes faster.

>>2516020
same filament I was using before it got fucked, same settings and setup, clean glass bed and everything else, it just decided to do that one day out of the blue so I'm assuming the most likely out of those would be an eccentric pulley or fucked belt then, how do I check for those without buying replacement parts I may not need in the end?

I just found out my library (90s walk away) has a bunch of 3D printers. What's the downside to doing the design and just dropping it in there? Presumably they do the maintenance on the machines?

>>2513058
>P90 front sear
Do you really want to 3D print a sear?
>also send files SKS auto-sear plz

>>2516073
Here are the files for the P90 hammer and front sear.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3872058
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4088032
It took me a really long time to find these files. I also found this little booklet, which is plans for an SKS auto sear.

>>2516073
>>2516088
If you have any trouble getting the auto sear to work, I'd recommend getting World of Guns: Gun Disassembly. Get the full access version so you're not locked out of all the guns at the beginning of the game. Search for the SKS, and look at the operation. You can select click to hide, and click on the receiver so you can see the trigger mechanism working and analyze it.

>>2516073
Here are the files for the P90 hammer and front sear.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3872058
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4088032
It took me a really long time to find these files. I also found this little booklet, which is plans for an SKS auto sear.

If you have any trouble getting the auto sear to work, I'd recommend getting World of Guns: Gun Disassembly. Get the full access version so you're not locked out of all the guns at the beginning of the game. Search for the SKS, and look at the operation. You can select click to hide, and click on the receiver so you can see the trigger mechanism working and analyze it.