/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2509013
god your dumb af. you must be a woman.

>>2509013
Are you on a VMC/Lathe/etc? What's your thru coolant pressure/volume like, you'll have tons of issues if it's not good.

They're supposed to make a consistent high pitched squeal when cutting well, if it's quiet it's too slow, adjust the feed to the lowest you can go while still breaking a decent chip.

Most of my experience is with Sandivik tooling so YMMV.

>>2509037
i am a man and i use these fucking cunt tools every day. the designer was probably a woman
>>2509039
lathe. good consistent coolant flow, no other tools have a problem with it.
>They're supposed to make a consistent high pitched squeal when cutting well, if it's quiet it's too slow, adjust the feed to the lowest you can go while still breaking a decent chip.
again, this is why they're so fucking retarded, on ANY OTHER TOOL that means something's fucked. you just want cutting noise, you don't want EEEEEE. EEEEEEEE on a boring bar means you're chattering, EEEEEEEEE on a normal drill isn't good either, EEEEEEE on a facing cut means you're chattering, but oh no these fuckers just want to EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE all the fucking time.

>>2509374
How big of a lathe and how big of a drill? Those things need good rigidity, but will never be actually quiet. Should be more of a rumbling growl than an EEEEEEE though. Their point is that they remove material fast as fuck, and can be offset on x (towards the side with the insert that cuts the periphery of the hole) to increase the size of holes. You can even use it to bore.

>>2509376
>How big of a lathe
mitsubishi C10B that's been rebuilt with almost half the length (yes i know how fucked that is, it's not my machine)
>how big of a drill?
.984"-2.5", we use every fucking size of this shitbird implement.
>good rigidity
this machine has been crashed, rebuilt, crashed again, and was actually out of service for almost a year before i got hired to run it. my trainer was visibly frustrated with it, i've gotten fed up a couple times, i still make a lot of good parts it just sucks sometimes.
>rumbling growl
i've hit this good a few times, thought it was fucked, apparently it wasn't. i know brrgrgrlrlglrgrllglzzrzgzgrgz is usually better than EEEEEEEEEEE, i just still don't like to hear it
>Their point is that they remove material fast as fuck, and can be offset on x (towards the side with the insert that cuts the periphery of the hole) to increase the size of holes. You can even use it to bore.
alternatively: twist drill and boring bar. these retards program the indexable drill, then STILL use a boring bar because their drills are so clapped out that they don't bore right. i've only seen one program that bores out of probably 50 that have used these drills. one program used it as a boring bar, 49ish didn't. like what the fuck dude.

i know they ?*can* be useful, but it's a bastardized tool that does something that two other tools can do and do better.

>>2509381
>>2509374

You are talking about thru-coolant right?

Given the machine's been run hard and put away wet, when was the last time you checked the turret alignment and the centerline offset? I'd even go as far as to check individual tool pockets/holders, I used to run a lathe with a VDI 40 turret that was treated similarly, some holders were way better than others but only in specific pockets, you'd figure out what worked well and then try to change it as little as possible. The drills don't need to be centered perfectly (they can even be offset slightly to tweak the diameter) but if the centerline of the tool isn't parallel to the spindle axis you're going to have a bad time

What sort material/speeds/feeds are you using, are you using the same Kennametal tools in your picture?

>>2509641
>You are talking about thru-coolant right?
yes
>Given the machine's been run hard and put away wet, when was the last time you checked the turret alignment and the centerline offset? I'd even go as far as to check individual tool pockets/holders
yesterday. indicated the face of the turret, indicated the pocket that's used for indexable drills and most other drills, etc. was fucked and it got fixed. indexable drills run no better for it
>The drills don't need to be centered perfectly (they can even be offset slightly to tweak the diameter) but if the centerline of the tool isn't parallel to the spindle axis you're going to have a bad time
the drills were presumably out by ~.005" over 6 inches before i reindicated it, now it's a little less than a thou over 6 inches from the pocket face. the turret is .002" out, which isn't great but at one point before i got to it the face was out ~.030" so i guess that's not terrible.
>What sort material/speeds/feeds are you using
almost always C12L14 cold roll, ~1krpm and .003" in uh... fuck, i can't remember if it's IPR or IPM. i know there's a huge difference there, but i'm going to assume it's IPM because when i wrote a part off cycle the other day the programmer mentioned it was fine in SFM.
>are you using the same Kennametal tools in your picture?
yes and no. i have a constellation of different brands including kennametal, sandvik, and some others. it's really just a mishmash.

>>2509645
>but i'm going to assume it's IPM
>0.003"

Are you sure you're qualified for this job?

>>2509646
no

i thought about it after i posted it and immediately thought "im a fucking retard", because i am a fucking retard. also turkey coma. give me a break dude

>>2509645
That sounds like your alignment is good, what direction do you have the outer insert pointing towards?

>now it's a little less than a thou over 6 inches from the pocket face
This probably goes without saying, but you are checking this with a known straight tool shank or test bar and as short of an indicator setup as you can get right? The body of the drill isn't supposed to be centered in the hole, if you find center using an indicator from the outer insert to the opposite side of the body it will drill small and you'll have chip issues, there's supposed to be 0.010-0.020" of clearance on the non cutting side.


>C12L14 cold roll, ~1krpm and .003
Without a size I can only really guess, that would be about right for a 2-2.5" drill, do you have any idea what insert grade(s) you're using? With the Sandvik tools and I'm used to and a good general purpose insert, I'd aim for 600-700SFM at a 0.0015-0.002" IPR feed as a starting point, once you get one hole done you can evaluate changes based on the insert condition, feed would be the first thing I'd try to increase. Most of my experience is with specialty HSLA steels and high performance nickel alloys, having some 12L14 for a day would be a pleasant dream, but I don't have any direct experience.

The thing I like to keep in mind is that they're not "drills" in the common sense, it's more like a boring bar that can take a massive cut since the loads are not symmetrically balanced, you've got to throw out a lot of the conventional logic. When they're running correctly they should sound about like this https://youtu.be/0N9ktwuNH9k?t=31 but almost ear piercingly loud, you probably want some form of ear pro when you're using one.

>>2509902
>what direction do you have the outer insert pointing towards?
up, so i can adjust the cut on x

Almost no one in my shop knows how to drive a drill properly, either on the floor or in the office.
>material: AH36 (HSLA mostly used for marine applications)
>tool: 9/32" solid WC 3xD, with TSC
55 SFM, .002 IPR, .025" peck increment
>material: Inconel 625
>tool: 25/32" spade drill, carbide tip, ~6xD body
37 SFM, .0018 IPR, G73 cycle with .05" Q value and no retract. Especially egregious was calling for the longer drill body when the shorter version would work just fine.
>material: either AH36 or another similar HSLA
>tool: 21/32" indexable
SFM 85, .002 IPR

Just some particularly dumbfounding programming off the top of my head. There's a guy who insists on using a peck increment of no less than .015" I'm fairly certain that most of these people don't have any grasp of seeds and feeds; they just pick some multiples of 5 for RPM (but never anything over 2000) and IPM.