/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2496074
Full Metal Sprite Pro Extrude as an Upgrade for my Ender 3:
Y/N, why?

Just upgraded my prusa to a .06mm nozzle. Really sad no good piracy groups for files. Those telegram groups are spammers and coomers.

>>2496086
Learn CAD, freeloader.

Just got a fdm printer and am ready to print 500 low poly gengar prints to throw into peoples back yards.

>>2496093
Based.

>>2496086

what would you need to pirate?

>>2496093
>He doesn't know about the tracking dots

Are there any designs for the acrylic hoods that resin printers use. I want to make one because I just blew $130 on an epax e10 hood only to find out you cant replace the vat while the hood is on.

>>2496120
>you cant replace the vat while the hood is on.
I mean that's how they all are unless you got one with a door.

>>2496125
Tthats the problem. Blew $130 to buy a hinged door hood and you still cant remove the vat with the hood attached.

>>2496120

>>2496131
wouldnt that just crack the acrylic

>>2496126
Well shit. That's an awful design then. Can you at least return it and get your money back?

>>2496140
Put masking tape on it first.

The 3d printing workshop is coming along nicely

>>2496143
gonna add soundproofing?
or fireproofing?

>>2496147
Not everyone has an Ender 3, anon.

>>2496147
The walls are cement board I had left over from many tile jobs so it's mostly fire proof (save the gas line on ceiling lel)
It's in the basement so I don't care about sound. I have it wired for data. There's an exterior venting fan (on the left) because I just got a resin printer and I don't want to run that in my office.
My FDM printer is a monoprice maker select that's like 10 years old (Prusa clone) I think they sell them as wanhao i3

>>2496160
ya got me

on that note, anyone know the actual reason behind ender 3s frying peoples' usb controllers? blaming the cable seems a little odd considering there really shouldn't be any current going through the 5v line. gotta check out the schematic i guess.

>>2496162
Might wanna cover up the ceiling and the walls to avoid those fumes wandering elsewhere.

my filament broke during printing (I guess? I wasn't watching it) and I don't know how the fuck to get it out. I could try to push it in using the filament that's still on the roll, but I feel like that's a recipe for disaster. My needle nose pliers are too big to grab it, and even my bathroom tweezers can't fit in there

>>2496178
Why not remove the bowden tube with that big copper nut there.

>>2496182
cause moron

>>2496178
Heat up your extruder and push it in with a flathead screwdriver.

Halp, I think I fucked up. I can't get these lines filled in for my life via primer. I sanded 120->320 but I think I massively missed the underside of these. Any recommendations?

>>2496198
Couldn't you just use something like a glue applicator to get a fine infil on those?

>>2496205
My newbie is showing. I don't know those were a thing. Would you use putty or just like an epoxy?

Why do like all 3d printing dudes on youtube have this hair style?

>>2496211
I have no idea. It's just what comes to mind for hard to reach areas. https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Tools-Adhesives/Blue-Glue-Applicators/p/81024495

>>2496212
Jews

What could be causing this? My first few layers tend to have crazy patches like this but afterwards everything prints just fine. I have to use a raft every print to catch the bad layers otherwise the first few layers of my model will be disfigured.

>>2496087
My Solidworks license is about to expire. What's another good CAD software to learn?

>>2496252
Probably your bed is not flat. Get a touch probe and run a UBL mesh on it.

>>2496267
I measure the clearance myself with calipers. It's level to within +/-0.05mm in every location tested, denotes with the circles in pic related.

>>2496285
Looks like you found your answer. You thinking probe or fix the bed?

>>2496252
learn how to level your shit, use the teachingtech live level gcode generator if you need training wheels
>>2496198
if youre using filler primer then you just need to sand more and with something more ridged like with a sanding sponge. If thats just normal primer on plastic then you're not gonna get it smooth without many coats

ooops, reposting because didnt notice it was new thread
Anycubic Photon Mono 4K
vs
Anycubic Photon Ultra
the difference i see is dlp and lcd, and that its not much difference except dlp lasts a lot longer before needing to be replaced?
i havent done any resin stuff and just looking for my first one. the photon ultra costs more, but if i dont have to keep buying things for it, it seems ok

>>2496387
DLP has much better contrast ratio too. Theoretically should never need replacing, so long as you don't give it strong shocks. But if you do need to replace the DLP itself, that's a hundred or two dollars. Doubt there's any accounts of longevity out for it yet, but there may be enough already out there for a crib death or two to crop up.

>>2496176
Yeah ceiling is getting rock board too, I just can't do that myself. Can't hold it up and screw it in at the same time

Prints are turning out like shit.
Everything looks bad.
I'm ashamed of these prints, walls look uneven and weird.
Ive done PID and everything.

Klipper + ender 3 + hemera revo, this happens art all z offsets and I'm starting to suspect temp issues?

>>2496432
And before I knew it I got a "not heating as expected error" in klipper console and shut down

Is it time for me to upgrade to a new fdm printer.
I generally HATE fdm printing. I have a very old Maker Select 2 that Ive modded. I didnt even touch it until I got an auto bed leveler. It prints fairly slow, and I often have issues with my prints.
Then I thought about how I hated resin printing on my photon, but got a newer large mono printer and I print with that almost everyday. I honestly fill like resin printing when dialed in is superior to fdm printing because its faster. Just wish it had the same build volume.

>>2496432
>>2496448
check the hardware

where can I download the cura modded with non-planar slicing?

I had it downloaded years ago but can't find it anywhere now

>>2496463
99% of the headache with FDM printing can be resolved with built-in (not modded) auto bed leveling + it having an enclosure

>>2489865
Any reason why you've opted for a motor on each leg segment? seems like it would be a pain to program and be kind of heavy

I've been working on a design myself and was thinking I'd do something along these lines

>>2496086
>Really sad no good piracy groups for files.
why are you even on /diy/?

>>2496140

What's the best value for money board ATM?
Running klipper with a rpi

Does anyone have any experience running 3D printers in a storage closet of an apartment balcony? Pic related isn't my apartment but it's a similar set up with about 60 inches in length and 25 inches in width for the closet inside. I was thinking about putting a 40" x 20" desk for my two small resin printers. I'm just wondering what else I can add in there to make it more convenient. I'll probably run this setup for another year until I buy my house so I'd like to make it as nice as I can.

>>2496609
What city?

>>2496303
I busted out the feeler gauges and got it down to 0.01mm all over. Still having problems. I figure it's the nozzle but I just rebuilt all of it other than the bowden tube, which I trimmed and reset.

>>2496432
looks like your e-steps are off over extruding

>>2496616
I live a little bit north of Houston.

>>2496641
The humidity there might be an issue. Resin is hygroscopic.

>>2496655
Yeah, the humidity is brutal. What about Dallas? I might be staying there for a few months in an apartment too.

>>2496656
Never been but doubt it's much different. Try it and if you start having issues get a dehumidifier. As long as the area is moderately sealed it should be able to keep humidity down.

>>2496143
Where is that, Auschwitz?

>>2496143
>room dedicated to 3d printing
>unsealed concrete and no moisture barriers
how are you suppose to control the humidity so your plastic can sit out longer?

>>2496170
>anyone know the actual reason behind ender 3s frying peoples' usb controllers?
backpowering is a bitch

Okay dudes, I have no idea where else to ask this but I am at the end of my rope. Do any of you know how to use NX? I need to subtract one part from another part to make a custom part that fits the curvature of the two. If none of y'all know, please recommend a board where I can ask. Nothing on Google is giving me good results and I am very unfamiliar with NX.

>>2496545
>linear motor
Consider a linear solenoid with a hall-sensor on it, should be able to measure position with that also. They're kinda expensive and not very well shaped, but if you print in that high-permeability filament you should be able to get decent performance in a custom footprint.

>>2496823
Why would it be configured to provide power anyhow? It's a USB B, not like people would be plugging flash-drives into it like if it were a USB A.

This is the z axis of a calibration axis. What's going on here? Too hot? Too fast?

>>2496845
>I need to subtract one part from another part
Dunno about NX, but "boolean" operation might help with seaqrch results

Waiting for volcano heat block to arrive.. then going to put cht volcano 0.6mm nozzle in it and run 0.8mm walls

>>2496637
So the heated nozzle and bed seem to have 0.100 +/- 0.01 mm printing 1.75mm PLA (Silk Silver by Inland) and this is still happening. I checked my bowden tube and everything. Made sure the nozzle was clear, too. I just don't know what would cause this. I thought it was only in the lowest layers of the print but the top layer has some weird chex pattern on it...

>>2496894
What's your extruder?

>>2496897
The stock Ender 3 Pro setup. I've trimmed the bowden tube back a few times.

>>2496906
The single gear drive one? Could be filament slip.

>>2496869
Not enough cooling. Gotta solidify the layers a bit to be able to print shitshow geometry like that.

>>2496894
You could save a lot of time by ditching the raft and just going with a few lines of skirt, then if you are printing something warpy do a brim. Also, "silk" filaments can be a bitch, they add some sort of petroleum product that makes them shiny, and inconsistent, and brittle, and get bad layer adhesion. Is what it is, might have to stick to parts that don't have a big flat top surface if it bothers you though.

>>2496845
dafuq is NX?

>>2496655
>>2496656
but the humidity is going to be fucking brutal no matter where you are there. you either need an air conditioner or a standing dehumidifier. the latter you can run in the closet and either dump the container or run a hose out. that and basically just don't plan to swap or store filament. worst case is every time you open the door your fuck over the dehumidifier and your spool turns to chalky shit before the day is over and you've learned something valuable for house shopping. best case you print through a roll before it turns to shit and can sustain the closet printing meme.

Is removing supports meant to be an hour+ long ordeal that ends in thousands of tiny pieces of plastic all over the place and ends up ruining the print anyways? Or am I just seriously missing something? Because I would rather slice my own ear off with a plastic knife than ever go through that ordeal again. I just ruined 2 prints using supports for the first time, one was a 15 hour and the other a 9 hour print, both ended up with these godawful, unholy abominations of supports that took forever to remove and then pieces of the print fucking broke off while going through that horrendous ordeal, completely wasting all the time and filament that went into the effort.

I was under the impression that supports were meant to just be like, small structures to hold up hanging parts that break off easy, but what I experienced was nightmarish. I knew a lot of people avoided supports as much as possible but i did not realize it was so godawful.

Please tell me there's a better way and i'm just missing something.

>>2496940
ah, I think maybe my problem, or at least a huge part of it, is using "supports everywhere" instead of just "touching buildplate" when I looked it up I saw some post on reddit where the top replies said "just put it everywhere, it's worth it for the peace of mind". Now after looking closely, I believe I was perhaps a fool to take advice from faggot r*dditors...

man this deburring tool is great

>>2496940
tree supports changed my life. normal supports are ass and I dream of two filament with disovable support whenever I have to use them.

got someone asking me for tech support, they have a anycubic mega zero and trying to put a direct drive on it. has anyone done this? i still need to find out what specific direct drive they tried. they said they tried two direct drives, tried them, they clicked, and then failed. no motors appear to work now. dead board?

>>2496952
the board inside is labelled mega zero, theres been a bit of confusion on what specific model they got with anycubics chinglish translation

>heater block leaking on prusa
>go through and deep clean
>as I'm reseating it on printer I tweak a wire just enough to ruin thermistor
>block warped enough from 6 months of bad use and abuse that I can't get thermistor out even when blasting with heat gun
>get all new hotend and install it
>connector for thermistor is different than what's on the board
>have to carefully remove old connector and new connector and swap it out
Nothing more stressful in my printing career so far

>>2496940
i use prusa slicer and paint supports after awhile you can sort of tell where you need em (.2 contact distance and no interface layer on the top, (just nede something to catch it from drooping too much in retrospect zero distance would probably be better and snip/sand off the contacts also i dont print faggy detailed toys either most things i print were designed to printed and have a use

>>2496954
that's almost nothing

>>2496956
I get squeamish with any wiring shit, I don't do much of it
Wasn't looking forward to possibly having to wait another 5 days for a replacement if I instantly fried the new one

>>2496940
Set support line width to 0.4mm, support resolution to 0.1mm, use tree support when possible, and get a nice pair of flush cutters instead of using a knife, but ideally the supports should come off with just your fingers 90% of the time. There are some more tweaks you can try, but the things I suggested will always be pretty ideal.

>>2496941
Yes, default to touching buildplate, but sometimes you will need them everywhere depending on part geometry. Tree support everywhere will leave less shit and is easier to remove the bottom part than traditional support everywhere.

>>2496959
Anon, I know you're scared, but you are going to learm wiring. You may even learn to like it, but I'm telling you right now that this is non-optional. Pic is related.

>>2496954
Now I'm smelling a burning plastic smell when running a test print, can't see anything immediately obvious either, fuck
>>2496964
I refuse

>another piece of plastic on an old household tool/appliance/etc. breaks
allow me to introduce myself

gonna repost my failure here too:
>>2496146

>>2496972
oh nah man wiring is fun trust me haha

>>2496972
You can refuse, but it's still happening.

What's the best way I could go about converting an image to a 3d raised image? I want to design a ship that has a figure on the front

>>2496867
>Why would it be configured to provide power anyhow? It's a USB B, not like people would be plugging flash-drives into it like if it were a USB A.
I dont understand it either, I just follow the rules. cut the wire and its fine

>>2496894
Print speed? Line width and layer height?

>>2496954
Jesus Christ.
How horrifying.

>>2496794
It's a conditioned basement
>>2496793
:)

If i want to stick some LEDs on the frame of my 3D printer, would I be able to power it from the USB B port on the printer?

>>2496990
Model what you want in blender using the image as a reference.

>>2496867
>Why would it be configured to provide power anyhow? It's a USB B, not like people would be plugging flash-drives into it like if it were a USB A.
Because 3D printers developed from Arduino/MCU's that used USB for power and programming.

>>2497072
Not enough light to be worth it imo. 2 to 3 watts of light. I've always used two 12v light strips in series power directly from the PSU.

What free software can I use to simulate something? I want to know if the thing I'm making will break with a given weight

>>2497099
I'm Lord Bitch, Sissy Master of the Qlz

is there a market for giant 3D printers?
like +150cm cube

>>2496930
Gotcha mate. Fan was at 100 but I'm guessing the min time per layer buggered.

>>2496933
If I don't use a raft, those errors on the first few layers happen ON THE MODEL instead of mostly being confined to the raft.

>>2496924
Would I just tighten the gear to fix that? It's already tight enough to leave teeth marks in the filament.

>>2496975
Damn, are you using flux or just rosin core solder?

>>2496998
Pic related. Just the defaults.
Print speed: 50mm/s
Line width: 0.4mm
Layer height: 0.2mm

They worked for me for weeks before a gap formed between my bowden tube and nozzle. I cleaned the head, replaced the nozzle, trimmed and re-seated the bowden tube, and sometimes everything prints perfectly, but most of the time I have these weird filament lines that aren't strings and patchy top and bottom layers.

>>2497099
Nothing you'd be able to use correctly without hundreds of hours of learning. Better off to make an irl test jig.

>>2497117
Doubt it. Limiting factor is speed. It'd take months to print something of that volume.

>>2497142
You could try that or get a double drive extruder. A bondtech extruder and touch probe are the two must upgrades for me.

Shilling here for Project Rotoforge, an attempt at building a cheap, community oriented, material agnostic desktop 3dp for plastics, metals and ceramics.
https://www.rotoforge.com/introduction/

>>2497191
there's barely anything on this site.

>>2497212
Yeah, the site is more of a portal for their youtube and discord stuff. There's a bit more there if folks can be bothered.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBE1bfTLnz7WSu8h5rG6ihA

>>2497142
>>2496894
>be me, a fucking moron.
>preheat print bed, level it, start a quick print and watch it to try to level it live
>as bed moves to purge the nozzle with that line down the side that cura includes in every gcode, a cable bundle is pulled across one of the bed leveling knobs
>there is immediately too much gap between the nozzle and the print bed
>watch several lines of filament come out poorly without much to grab onto
>move the cable bundle and re-level the bed
>99% of problems vanish
>print breaks while removing supports because I printed it in the wrong orientation

Fuck, if I'd just paid more attention I would've seen the cables turning the knob.
If I'd tried a slicer other than cura and not had every single print start off by pushing the bed all the way back and then all the way forward, the cables wouldn't have turned the knob and I could have isolated that it was something the cura slicer was doing.

>>2497142
>Damn, are you using flux or just rosin core solder?
I think that's mainly the conformal coating that got kinda toasty while desoldering the original battery connection.

>>2497191
Could you alter the alloy mixture mid-way?

>>2497317

yes. Multialloy mixtures and especially bulk metallic glasses are particularly interesting.

>>2497142
Watch the extruder gear, is it slipping and moving backwards without chewing the filament up?

Guys I have an Ender 5, I fucking
>SUCK AT 3D PRINTING FUCK FUCK FUCK I HATE I WANNA DIE FUCK FUCK
ok so I have this weird like "boop, bump, brrt" type sound (a cross between those sounds) that just repeats every second
> ._._._._._._.
its coming from the filament feeder thing, its like skipping or something?

Also, I use pronterface, slice with Cura. Why does the fan not start at all when printing? Like I have to physically go and turn the fan up to 100 every single time I print something

how do I get this to generate interface? Minimum area didn't do anything

>>2497374
They make squeaking noises when they're too tight.

>>2496952
>they said they tried two direct drives, tried them, they clicked, and then failed.
was the hot end heated or nozzle removed? was there even filament? the lack of details makes it impossible to guess what fucking stupid shit is going on.

>>2496954
>on prusa
prusa children folks

>>2496990
1. learn to 3d render with zbrush
2. try to remember why you started this journey 4 years ago

OR

find a near enough already 3d model that you can add to an already 3d boat

>>2497426
cope more, chinkshit shill

>>2496867
>Why would it be configured to provide power anyhow?
chinese logic.

>>2497374
is it printing or not?

>>2497434
here I maded this for (You)

>>2497439
>soijaks
go back

>>2497399
x/y distance

>>2496962
>>2496963
thanks, I did the changes you suggested and just came home, this time supports were nothing more than a slight annoyance, only took about 90 seconds of effort to remove compared to literally over an hour yesterday for the exact same print. Sadly it still had some issues, this time due to probably needing to have used "everywhere" for this particular print. I will try again tomorrow with tree supports, hopefully then I can get a good results.

>>2497439
You sure got those prusakiddies good bro-
>*CR-10 kit arrives with warped extrusions*
>*ender 3 arrives with torn belts*
>*ender 5 arrives with warped heater plate*

Printed this guy on my Anycubic Photon Mono 4K.
Overall pretty happy with him (disregarding my shitty support removal around the teeth) but the area around his butt got messed up, and that same spot had the raft almost totally peeled off the build plate when it was finished. I'm surprised it didn't just fall into the vat. Also, his layer lines seem a lot more noticeable than a typical resin print. Any advice?

>>2497482
The butt in question.

I have a Photon Mono 4K too, just recently printed this on it, actually. What kind of resin are you using? Also, what program did you use to slice it?

>>2497482
>>2497483
>>2497489
Shit, I forgot to quote your posts when I made my reply. I'm half asleep, my bad.

>>2497489
>>2497491
This is the resin I used, and it was sliced with Chitubox. I switched to Chitu from Lychee after having repeated total failures with Lychee. Chitubox worked pretty well up until now.

>>2497493
>Anycubic Grey resin
This is the exact shit I was using when all my prints were coming out with defects. I can't vouch for Anycubic's other resins but on Amazon's review of this brand there's a lot of people complaining about this color specifically. I swapped to Siraya Tech for my Photon Mono 4K and use Phrozen's 4K resin for my Sonic Mini 4K and haven't had a failed print since. Also, I swapped from Chitu to Lychee but I'm not sure which change made more of a difference.

>>2497495
Great to know, thank you! I'll definitely look into getting a different resin. It hadn't even occurred to me that that could have been my issue.

How can I check if my fan is actually turning on? I don't particularly feel anything blowing but it could be a subtle breeze idk

>>2497525
Should note I'm using a Biqu bx

>>2496074
i wonder how long easynylon will keep its grip

uuuh, yeah not quite plumb
also lost bed adhesion for this print so that corner screw is kinda not very good either.

>>2497549
what does this do?

>>2496074
Printbros... I don't feel so good....

What went wrong? This is the first type of filament causing me any trouble despite doing everything by the book.

if i use vase mode should i print one by one? since if i print multiple objects the print is not one uninterrupted line

>>2497489
anon...... please its NNN

Can you use standard resin parts for a DIY FDM machine or is it too brittle

>>2496120
The hoods are polycarbonate. Polycarbonate screens UV.

>>2497454
Well now there's some interfacing, but I'd like it to be more aggressive with it. How do I get it to extend interface to the edge of the support?

>>2497729
nvm i guess, found out density can influence that. I didn't expect it to determine the outer boundaries of interfacing, just the inner lines.

>>2497612
nothing just articulates

Remember to clean your extruder from time to time!

>>2497804
Was there a fire in there?

>>2497729
that's probably alright dude, it's like 1mm of overhang

>>2497483
the layer lines are artifacts of it shifting because of the delam as you print. more exposure time?

>>2497525
>>2497527
look here. if the little blades inside this part are visible then your fan isn't running. if you're still not sure remove the metal detail and press your dick against it.

>>2497699
keep calm and think about golf
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/hUmGMwJDZmg

>print on raft for first time
>no elephants foot
>holes in model are actually consistent in size all the way through
Why did /3dpg/ tell me rafting sucked?

>>2498053
Something something wasteful/longer print times.

>>2498053
I’ve always used rafts

>>2498053
Telling you not to bother with a raft assumes that you are smart enough to get a good first layer.

>>2497632
Have you tried using dry filament?

>6-year old printer
>back in March, decide to "calibrate" by pulling X belt tight as possible
>home
>printer shits itself and board just fucking dies after making horrible WHRRRRRRRRRRRRRR noise
>Order new board + cooling upgrade for $300
>sit on it
>repair it
>filament won't go in, just need to loosing new filament screw but that's a job for tomorrow me
I shall rejoin the 3d printing world for the 3rd time. Got some nice marble filament from Atomic filament, and then two rolls for overture.

>>2497980
Instructions unclear, dick caught in potentially running fan.

>>2498156
honestly anon, for $300, you should have bought an ender3, or other modern budget printer.
i love my monoprice select mini, and i've spend double its original price on repairs and replacements, but thats over 7 years time.
if i was going to start again, i would buy a whole new printer, with 7 years of actual improvements.

what's the best grey pla i can buy from amazon? Also, is vacuum packed a good way to store filament?

>>2498156
Sounds like me trying to fix the printer at work. No matter what I try, there seems to be a new issue with it.

>>2497560
>auto-home printer
>laser bracket happens to not trip limit switch
>stepper whirring furiously while it forces the laser towards the axis
>quickly slam the off button
ok seriously now i've designed a better one.

question, do any anons here use a quick tool changer for their printer? like this
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3369444
i'm wondering how rigid and repeatable it is, and if you'd get any slow deformation of the pla over time, due to hot-end heat.

>>2498156
not supposed to white knuckle tighten it. it still needs to move freely when the steppers are off

>>2498186
It's a Makergear M2. It's American made but also American durable, but also parts come at American prices. Solid, repeatedly reliable, but not idiot-proof.
>>2498212
lel are you breaking it in the process of "fixing" it?
I also managed to break the LED while getting this repaired, but the upside is that I ran some extra slack wire for an LED that will never move again after I reordered it into place.

>>2498269
I honestly didn't feel like I unga-bunga'd it but I learned that day.

>>2498290
laying plastic.
needed to tighten my screws holding my glass so it wouldn't wobble
and needed to smoosh the z a little more
doin a benchy but glad to be melting plastic after like 6 months.

>>2498413
Calibrate your e-steps, anon.

>>2498433
I hate calibrating e-steps but it's a new board and unfortunately on the list. I was just excited to lay plastic. Getting my belt sorted, some gunk was making it bounce for whatever reason.

>>2498053
nvm, I've been going at this print with pliers, a scalpel, and a file for hours now and I can't get a flat finish on the bottom. Rafting is shit

How many grams do you guys think a hamster (with no previous trainign) can bench press? 50, 60, 80?

So if I'm looking to build out my printer collection with a resin one, is there anything specific to look for if i go with used ones? There's definitely fewer moving parts to deal with compared to FDM but other then scratches on the screen or issues with the Z axis is there much else to look for? I figure i can find a decent deal from some retard who realized they didn't like the messes/smelllz but I also don't want to get fucked with a dud

>>2498413
>laying plastic
That sounds like future slang for fucking an android.

>>2498612
NTA but I have an Irokebijin silicone doll and I'm going to start using that term when I fuck it.

>>2498542

All this time wasted trying to get flawlessly smooth prints when fuzzy prints are so kawaii.

I just got my spending limit raised to 5,500 what should I buy?

>>2498613
/ona/ pls go

Anyone know what setting I need to change to prevent this? I'm not getting connection between the walls and the top.

>>2498720
pretty much everything is fucked, anon

>>2498720
Not a clue. I didn't even know you could fuck things up that bad. Time to reset to defaults and not touch the advance tab.

>>2498720
try setting your line width slightly lower than nozzle diameter to get your shell layers and infill squished more together. and enable retraction if its not already and or reduce temp for the stringing.

>printing chain guards for printer belts en mass
>for some reason, every link is missing a single layer of wall at the same point in every link
>1/3rd of the links snap while connecting them

What would even cause that? I used the Cura slicer.

>>2498290
>tightens X belt
>board fries itself
>durable
>reliable
Anon please. Lmao. Sounds like the motor drivers are super cheap and can’t handle the small increase of current on the stepper motor

>>2498720
Calibrate extruder steps. You are MASSIVELY underextruding. what the fuck anon.
https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide

>>2498728
it's probably not missing a link, but it looks like it happens on the transition to the next layer after the top fill for the horizontal connector between the vertical parts. You spend a lot of time on one layer then subsequent ones move a shitload faster.

>>2498722
I basically am on default settings. The only thing I changed was the infill amount and style, and adding a brim. In PrusaSlicer with an ender 3v2. Filament is generic PLA @Creality, 1.75mm, which is the right diameter.

>>2498723
The default extrusion width? It's by default set to 0.44mm, and I've got a 0.4mm nozzle. Probably. I don't actually know for sure, but it's the slicer's default setting for this printer and it's what my printer came with.

I'm honestly not fussed about that level of stringing if it means better print strength.

>>2498737
Well I already calibrated the esteps after swapping to a dual-gear extruder, it's basically bang-on. I tell it to extrude 5cm and the filament moves 5cm. And that's with the extruder connected to the hot-end by the bowden tube. So I can only assume I need to increase the extrusion multiplier in my slicer's filament settings. To something like 1.7 times.

I'll check the esteps again though, and see about increasing the tension on the extruder from the minimum. I don't think it's slipping, but a bit more tension can't hurt.

>>2498739
That seems accurate. Some of those links don't even have complete top layers on the bridge portions. Why would the speed difference cause a seam right there? Were the layers cooling too much while the printer extruded the top layers of the bridge or something?

>>2498750
generally extrusion width should be your actual nozzle size, or smaller if galps appear between each line, and that .44 is what's causing that gap I'm almost certain.

strange if that's the default.

>>2498760
A higher line width will extrude more filament enough to make that line width, a wider line width than nozzle size squishes filament more.

>>2498760
>that .44 is what's causing that gap
I'm not sure I understand the logic behind setting it to be lower. Wouldn't that make the lines even thinner, and hence further apart? Or does it keep the same extrusion amount and just change the spacing in response?

>>2498720
Wait a fucking second. My transmission ratio was back to the default 93 e-steps per mm of the single-gear extruder, even after I set it to 150 or so last time I tuned it. I've set it to 145 again and I'll check it after it's been turned off for a short while, but fuck if it doesn't save its specs that will be a pain in the dick.

Should the bottom of a print be completely smooth with no gaps, or are small gaps fine/expected?

>>2498788
Ideal is still being able to see the gaps on the bottom perimeters, but smooth in the infill lines, or as close to that as you can get.

>>2496143
Did the sex dungeon not work out for you or did they all escape?

>>2498777
Fuck, it did change back. You need to go and press some sort of save button to get it to save those settings.

Well I found my cooling issue. This open box printer's fucking fan is snipped. Where's the best place to get a replacement for this?

>>2496886
Why so small?

>>2498811
Amazon is probably the fastest, but dig deep and order a spare so you don't go into withdrawals next time.

>>2498811
Snipped how? If the wire is just cut it can be reconnected.

>>2498811
>This open box printer's fucking fan is snipped

Then just splice on a new connector.

>>2497117
They already exist, and are mostly $30,000 pieces of garbage.

>>2498811
Also, consider a soldering iron, leaded solder, and heat shrink tubing so you can fix things like that.

>>2498815
There was no connector end when I opened up the hot end.
>>2498816
Where can I just get one of them?
>>2498813
Amazon's looking like it doesn't have this particular model. I'll look around though.

>>2498542
They're natty beasts. At least 70% bodyweight.

What are some good profiles for E3Dv2 and Cura 5.2.1. I tried using CHEPs profiles - EF 2.0 and 2.8 but i dont know, they are meh. They are really fast than what I tried before from CHEP, no doubt but its all behind a login.

Quick question for you gents. I've had my CR-10V3 for about 2 years, replaced basically everything on it piecemeal as they broke but the frame, motors and power supply. It's a decent frankenstein with a bigtree board running fluid, has a webcam, v6 hotend, noctua fans, 3dtouch, blah blah.

Now the original cooling ducts have given up the ghost. They got warped when the hotend fan wire finally went. Now it barely drags the bed and lifts prints as they're getting done.

I found some replacement files that look like a good bolt-on upgrade. Problem is, only available printers I have are my girlfriend's Playsmart that will only do PLA and my resin printers. Would PLA work for something that near the hotend or am I fucked until I can get something that resists heat better? Only really use PLA and PETG on the printer so I don't have to worry about ABS temps.

>>2498823
>Where can I just get one of them?
Check the pitch of the connector. Should just be 2.54mm standard. Grab a variety box for like $7 and never worry about connectors again.

>>2498832
Thanks mate I'll look into that tomorrow.

>>2498823
I've found 30mm and 40mm but not 35xd

>>2498821
If you use leaded solder instead of rosin core, consider flux as well. And a filtered ventilation fan is mandatory.

And if you wanna be really fancy, isopropyl alcohol and d-limonene are important for cleaning up a soldering job, and a roll of desoldering wick is invaluable.

https://www.ipc.org/sites/default/files/test_methods_docs/2-3-42.pdf

>>2498823
>There was no connector end when I opened up the hot end.
What was the wire connected to before? If there's anything there you can solder or otherwise join the wire back together.

>>2498836
There's absolutely no connector in the box that it came with but it's one of these. I do have another idea though. I found this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4682915 and this would be the perfect excuse to upgrade while I'm at it.

>>2498830
>Would PLA work for something that near the hotend or am I fucked until I can get something that resists heat better?
Lots of people make fan shrouds/ducts in PLA and it works fine. If nothing else you could certainly print one in PLA and then use your printer to do one in something more high temp

>>2498830
I've tried an Ender 3 duct in PLA. It lasted a week before drooping enough to touch the print. Given your situation I'd print a pla one on the gf's toy and use it to print an abs one on the cr-10.

>>2498830
ABS is ideal, but you're probably ok with PETG.

>>2498861
>>2498830
Adding to this, as a bonus you aren't going to be using the fan when you print the ABS duct/shroud, so you are already set up to do this.

>>2498836
>If you use leaded solder instead of rosin core
those things aren't mutually exclusive, anon.

>>2496479
I found it and built the slicer (it was slic3r not cura) in an ubuntu VM. Works but sometimes takes a few tries to slice it.

Has anyone used this on an i3? Just remove the fanblock and move the PINDA up? Guess I'll just try and get a longer nozzle if there isn't enough clearance.

Also, any clues as to why my bed is lifting at one corner when I run mesh bed visualizer? There's no debris or anything jutting it up

>>2497117

I bought a spool of 90A TPU filament and I want to start printing with it.

What settings do I need to change besides temperature? I am used to print with just PLA (ender 3v2, bowden), what are the go-to settings for TPU?

>>2496252
Good: Fusion360/Inventor.
FOSS: FreeCAD.

>>2498975
You ever try to use FreeCAD?

Related video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LqfzdEz_MM

Any of you anons have an Ender 5 Pro? What do you think are necessary upgrades if any? Will teaching tech steps work just fine with it do I need to upgrade firmware or anything? Also, with it getting colder out, do I need an enclosure to print PLA+ properly?

>>2499034
You'll only need to update the firmware if you add or change something like a CR Touch or different hotend. If you live in the Alaskan woods and are printing on a stump you'll probably need an enclosure for PLA. If you're in a house that is reasonable heated then no.

>>2498830
>Would PLA work for something that near the hotend or am I fucked until I can get something that resists heat better?
It could, but you can always print it in ABS or ASA to make sure it can take it.
No part cooling? No problem, ABS doesn't like part cooling anyways.

What's the most braindead simple small DIY printer for someone who wants to try building a one from scratch

>Inb4 voron0
Pls no

>>2499091
probably an ender 3 clone with linear rails and a v6
you can do that almost entirely with off the shelf parts like extrusions and angle brackets. the hotend flange can be made from a simple 6mm plate with a hole drilled through and then cut in half.
you could build a printer like that with a drillpress, a hacksaw and a file

>>2498952
30-40mm/s for 95A (might have to go slower for 90A), 220C Nozzle, 60C bed, same fan you would use for PETG.

>>2499091
Salad Fork: Not technically a Voron.

>>2496252
>Salad Fork
Sign up with Titans of CNC and get their $20 license for solidworks

>>2498836
>If you use leaded solder instead of rosin core, consider flux as well.
Anon here's what you do
Get you a pound roll of Kester's rosin core lead solder
and a bottle kester's flux
and never worry about the quality of your solder again.

Any of you guys tried manual mesh leveling? How about those dirt cheap BLtouch knockoffs that are like $10? Any of them worth it or any anecdotes Anons? Anybody else have an Ender 5? I bought it on Amazon prime day for like $230 but what sucks is that it seems uncommon so all the information out there is for different printers.

>>2499158
>>2498952
>same fan you would use for PETG
eh petg can bridge a lot better with a lot less fan, never in all of my time printing TPU have I had an issue with 100% cooling. It always comes out indestructible regardless and cooled definitely has a better finish quality

>>2499207

>manual mesh leveling

What do you mean exactly?

Also if you dont have a glass bed, consider getting a inductive probe instead. something like this.
>https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Inductive-Proximity-Detecting-LJ12A3-4-Z/dp/B07P3JX6J7/

or this.
>https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Detecting-Distance-Inductive-Proximity/dp/B01M1777XK

these have better accuracy on reading
>.005mm

while bltouch is
>.025mm

Now, if you have a glass bed, then consider bltouch, or even try the poormans bltouch if you have the stuff for it. My ender 3 has a glass bed so im going to try poormans bltouch.
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890290

I have a digital dial indicator to level my ender 3 bed back in the day, but there is also a digital tire depth gauge that has a data port out just like the digital dial I have, and digital calipers on the cheap chinese ones.
>https://www.amazon.com/BESITA-Digital-Tread-Depth-Gauge/dp/B07GRX7LWS

these are also cheap on aliexpress if you dont mind waiting a few weeks or a month+ for them.

Is ~210 a good price for a new Ender3 V2 Neo? Or what would other options be for something in the same price range with the features it's got?

>>2498542
the real problem is the other hamster won't have the attention span to spot. had a lot of dead hamsters that way.

>>2498844
anon, this is a blue board. we have prusa fags here who are triggered by wires like that. please keep it clean.

>>2499266
Yeah, that's not bad. You can maybe find it cheaper, but you are just wasting time that you could be printing for maybe $10-20 savings. Looks like a solid printer, a direct drive extruder would be nice but if you aren't trying to print TPU then a Bowden is perfectly fine.
Just get a few rolls of filament from a brand that doesn't also make printers and you're set.

>>2497024
>contributes fucking nothing
>DUUUR LOOK AT THE TONGUE GUYS
Fucking kill yourself. So fucking sick of you that I could strangle someone in public on the off chance that I might kill you and you specifically.

New nozzle arrived

So my filament that has been staying in the 'open' for the last few months and every time i print, I get those weird pop sounds. I think the filament has moisture or whatever. The prints themselves have gaps in them on the Z which i think are from this popping and cracking. Cant be a nozzle clog because extrudes really good in free air.

What do?

>try to use http://nebarnix.com/img2gco/ to make laser files
>doesn't work on svg, treats transparency like black instead of white, make a test png instead
>can't figure out what height is actually supposed to do, set it to 100mm
>output g-code to ender 3, it doesn't move my z axis, and burns way too much of the designated area dark, can't figure out scale either
>check g-code with viewer, top left png becomes top right file
>export svg from kicad
>try to use https://jtechphotonics.com/?page_id=2012 to make laser files
>scale looks 2.54 times too large
>output g-code to ender 3, immediately rams into the edge of x travel and i have to turn it off
>check g-code with viewer, bottom left svg becomes bottom right file, the scale grid is so small that it's invisible so it must be scaled off by a factor of 1000 or something ludicrous
>also doesn't raster black areas
the search continues

>>2498880
>>2499206
Miss me with that shit.
Leaded solder with liquid flux is the only way to go, imo. And if you don't have a solder pot for dipping along with a roll of solder, ya basic.

>>2496099
.06mm nozzle, guessing they're wanting table top miniatures to print. Some games get pretty aggressive about protecting their IP.

>>2499377
No I meant you can buy leaded solder either with or without flux core. Actual quality of both solder alloy and flux is highly dependant on what brand you buy. Flux-core solder is just more convenient, especially for working on circuit boards. You should have some sort of external flux, but it's only really necessary to use when you're working on heavy parts that take a lot of heat.

I used a Replicator 2. What the fuck went wrong?

>>2499409
stringing, its usually an issue with heat, retraction settings, or moist filament.

>>2499409
Any chance you printed this in vase mode?

>>2499409
There's a pre-Hot-Glued version of this model?

>>2499412
>stringing
I've had stringing before, but it's usually been stringy. This is a lot more clumpier and tougher. In another print I made it basically made walls in between two parts that stuck out.
>heat
Too hot? Not hot enough? I've been trying to use Cura for the Replicator, and I set it to 220. I've tried 230 since that's the stock temperature on the MakerBot software, but had similar issues.
>retraction settings
Too high or too low? Suggested ones on MakerBot Print were at 1.8mm, but I've dialed that up to the 5-6mm range as that's what I've got on my printer at home. Neither have worked well.
>moist filament
This is what I thought, but not sure on how to dry it. It's an old reel that was bought years back, and from what I've seen, until recently it was still vacbagged, so I don't see how moisture could have gotten in.

>>2499414
Unless that's a setting in Cura, no fucking idea.

>>2499100
>Ender 3
Anything smaller? Something about Voron0 sized or atleast prusa mini

>>2499419
>>heat
>Too hot?
Depends on the material. Print a temp tower to find the settig that suits your filament.
>>retraction settings
>Too high or too low?
5-6mm is reasonable enough, again depending on your printer and filament.
>This is what I thought, but not sure on how to dry it.
Either get a dryer box or shove it in the oven for few hours on 40-50°C

>>2499423
The Ratrig V-Minion is pretty cool looking and tiny. I don't have any experience with it though.

>>2497835
It's oil residue. Should be cleaned.

>>2499016
Yeah, that's why I didn't put it in the good category

>>2499387
>No I meant you can buy leaded solder either with or without flux core.
No I mean I'm well aware of it, but in my opinion the entire point of leaded solder is the higher quality of the joint and the lack of impurities in and around it, and adding flux to the solder itself undoes that. You're getting lead exposure for the tiny benefit of it being slightly easier to work with.

Imo, if you think you're good enough to bother with leaded solder, you should be managing your flux volumes yourself. And for circuit boards, that's why you need something like d-limonene and IPA for cleanup. You apply the flux with a needle dropper precisely where you want the solder to go and the leaded solder doesn't risk over-saturating the pad or pin.

Is there any way to push a stock Ender 3 Pro beyond this? I feel like I'm overlooking something, like the subtle pockmarks on some surfaces, or the light stringing.

Also, how the hell do I turn off the focus blur on a smartphone camera?

>>2499298
You sound tearful. Do you want to talk about it?
I'm here for you.

I recently upgraded my nozzle to 0.6mm. I'm trying to print a sword prop but the very tip is looking droopy and a string tip like soft server ice cream.

I've slowed down the print and smaller layers, is this an overheating issue? PETG.

>>2497632
I think you should slow down until it's good enough, then print a heat tower.
>>2497804
Why? You can just buy a new printer.
>>2498156
>marble filament
European statue incoming!
>>2498542
kek
>>2498720
You need to print with actual filament, this looks like your print on 70% or so.
>>2499034
You want to change the board, it's an old 8 bit one. It's loud and you want separate drivers for the two Z motors.
>>2499091
A Prusa Mini clone.
>>2499357
You gonna need three extruders, boy. Hope you got the stomach for that.
>>2499547
That is as good as it get, i think. It's better than most are able to, so be happy.
You buy a phone with a macro, wide and regular lens. I have a Pixel 6 pro, makes perfect pictures all the time, the only problem is, it can't take CRT pics, i collect old macs and that is anoying. I have a Samsung Galaxy 7 tablet that i have to use instead.

>>2499426

I have one. Good machine and fast, but for the life of me I can't get the bed level- it compensates so it doesn't matter, but it's a very flat bed... my mount just appears to be jacked up. Pisses me off.

Also getting the belts tensioned is a pain for the X axis. I'm pretty sure my belt is too short because I had to modify the tensioner and make a new one.

>>2499207
I use manual mesh leveling with a dial indicator.
It's been a while. I still level the bed and use a mechanical limit switch adjustment for Z. The mesh is to to account for the bed shape.

The mesh data can be dumped to pronterface (G29 S0) and entries can be edited.
>G29 [I<index>] [J<index>] S<0|1|2|3|4|5> [X<count>] [Y<count>] [Z<linear>]
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html

>>2496479
If you know your shit you can download Curvislicer on Github

>>2499592
>You want to change the board, it's an old 8 bit one. It's loud and you want separate drivers for the two Z motors.
Yea man it is loud as fuck. I've heard of people having trouble with some aftermarket boards what do you think?

>>2499547
>>2499592
>That is as good as it get, i think. It's better than most are able to, so be happy.

My next question then is what kinds of upgrades and modifications are good to get for an Ender 3 Pro?

I'm very interested in dual extrusion and auto-leveling.
I've heard that a better fan or a duct can improve prints as well.

>>2496074
You've just failed your last print, you piece of shit.

>>2497426
>>2497439
At least their fucking printers work well for longer than 1kg of filament.

>>2499607
Print some single and double layer shims at .2mm layer height and you're good.

>>2499694
>RRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

>>2499423
>Anything smaller?
M8 anything that is made out of V slot profiles can be made with fairly basic tools. Yes, you can make something small like a Prusa mini out of Vslots, see the Ender 2 for inspiration.

>>2499705
Yes.

Been out of the game for a bit but made these rc car hub carriers a few weeks ago, tested and survived proper racing and the car works quite well with them.

>>2499906
The ass of the car in question, my 1/8 scale electric buggy.

Ender 3 V2/V2 Neo or an S1 or Other Printer?

>>2499920
Prusa MK3S, running Taulman 3D glass fiber nylon with print settings that I spit and bubblegummed together after watching the CNC Kitchen video on transparent FDM prints. The result was a little ugly but very strong.

>>2499920
I’m a dumbass, thought you were replying to me. In any case just get a Prusa if you got the cash.

>>2496074
My latest print had elephant's foot but at the top. Anyone got a clue how this could have happened?

>>2499920
>>2499926
Aiming to keep my budget under 250 if possible, but some pre blackfriday deals popped up and all three of those enders are under 220$

wait i just realised op used my pic of an improperly constructed extruder full of blow

>>2499906
>>2499926
That's really cool anon. Nice to see structural prints with those high-end filaments. But don't the glass-fibres burn through nozzles?

>>2499955
NTA, but you're going to want a hardened noozle for glass filled filaments.

>>2496252
Try SolidEdge, they have free community edition.
Fusion360 is annoying after a normal cad system (I use Solidworks at work) and it all online shit but it's usable.

Welcome to your nightmare: https://github.com/zruncho3d/DuelingZero/

>>2499360
>What do?
buy a Food Dehydrator.

Rolling for five nines!

>>2499665
Can't say anything to "I've heard of people having trouble with some aftermarket boards".
I personally have had a few printers, Anet A8, CR-10, Ender 2, Ender 3 and now Prusa Mini (FYSETC clone). I'm also looking for a large volume printer and think the Ender 5 Pro is a valid and cost efficient choice, after all it's just a hobby. I personally don't mind the sound, it would live in the basement. What i don't want is another bed slinger, as these are only great if your printing platform can be small.
A shop on Aliexpress will have the FYSETC Prusa kits for 30% off at 11.11, might get another Prusa Mini just to be able to print different things at the same time. They are silent and fit nicely in my living room cabinet. At the same time I'm looking out for deals on larger CoreXY printers.
>>2499671
Here is the thing, i personally don't think any of that is needed if you print PLA. If you have one of the first Ender 3 with 8 bit board and plastic extruder, you can and maybe should update to 32 bit and metal extruder. Other than that, i don't see need for updates.
Next step would be CoreXY instead of bed slinger.
>>2499720
The Ender 2 really was a good printer. I should have kept mine, to be honest.
>>2499920
I would get the cheapest one that has 24 volt bed, a metal extruder and TMC drivers (aka silent board), if i'm correct all of your choices offer that. Make a spreadsheet with all the features and prices to decide.

>>2500004
Almost, bruf, almost. Have a Ukie lady innawoods.

>>2499955
Hardened steel nozzle
>muh thermal conductivity
Live with it, upgrade to volcano.
I’m experimenting with glassing atm (brushing diluted epoxy adhesive onto glass fibre cloth onto parts)

>>2499955
I have an e3d nozzleX in the printer because I didn’t want to shell out for a ruby, supposed to be some super duper steel. It works well but we’ll see how it holds up under heavy use soon, season just ended and I have a ton of RnD planned.

When using a 0.6mm nozzle and setting line width to 0.8mm and wall width to 0.8mm, I would assume the flow is supposed to compensate automatically and should be left at 100% because it doesn’t know what nozzle I’m using.. but I’m getting underextrusion and can notice it on the raft. I’m going to try again with 133% flow in cura and see how it goes (0.8/0.6).

It’s not an extrusion/hot end limit. I just did a test up to 16mm^3/sec is 100% with no under extrusion on a flow test.

0.8mm x 0.2mm (layer height) x 50mm/sec should be only 8mm^3/sec.

>>2500117
Never mind I had E in mm^3 turned on and was getting 59mm for 100mm of extrusion, off and now I'm getting 134.5mm.. well time to calibrate

>>2500122
Well calibrated and got it extruding 100mm.. but after doing a flow test the sample weighs around 0.4g.. got sus on my filament but calipers confirmed it's 1.75mm and cut a 200mm sample and it weighs about 0.62g as one would expect given any error in my measurement with cutting.. weird af.. the previous uncalibrated value was always spot on even though i found it's extruding longer lengths than what it's supposed to, hmm I'm gonna try it manually through the nozzle and weigh it at 200mm then calibrate via that instead of measuring extruded length

>>2500139
After calibrating for weight for e-steps, and measuring how much filament was pulled off the roll.. it’s spot on 100mm for 100mm of extrusion.. measuring it coming out of extruder but not going through hot end just makes it extrude more.. absolute bizzaro. I never knew.

I went through the same process calibrating step/mm for my bontech extruder. Even though the amount of filament used and weights checked out visually I could tell it was massively over extruding. So I cut back the esteps from what the math and measurements told me it should be and ran tests until the prints looked good. I don't have the actual numbers in front of me but I went from like 482 steps/mm to around 415-420. No idea why but that's the sweet spot for my setup.

Oi, what is the difference in the Voron Trident and the Voron 2.4r2?
Which one would be preferable?

>>2499665
Was just reading up on it, it seems the Ender 5 pro get delivered with the silent boards now.
Chinks, amirite?

>>2496074
Hey anons, I'm retarded, and need help
Ender 3 v2, is the arm that holds the print head supposed to be uneven? Its always been this way.

I tried messing with frame screws and arm screws, no dice. Any advice? Should I buy another z-axis motor and make it dual z-axis?
Currently updating firmware for the BL touch I just got.
Thanks in advance. I just want to make something nice and I haven't printed anything on it yet, its been months.

>>2500117
the slicer calculates with*height= needed plastic with a lot of filtering applied, basically every slicer does actual extrusion length a little different for a given line.

The flow % is a simple multiplier for calculated extrusion length and you are free to play with that within reason.
>and should be left at 100%
not at all, flow can compensate for shrinkage. the slicer doesn't know what plastic you are running

>>2500234
If you only have one Z screw it will be slightly hanging down on the other side, but that shouldn't be a problem, since you adjust the bed so that it is a bit down on that side too.
You don't need a BLTouch and you don't need a second Z screw unless you print high precision over the entire build volume.
Get fucking started and stop upgrading!

>>2499694
voron time

>>2500229
The 2.4 has the Z movement on the gantry with quad belts, and the Trident has the Z movement on the buildplate with triple lead screws.
Probably the Trident is better overall until you get over 300mm, when moving that big ass buildplate up and down becomes harder than moving the gantry up and down. Now you may ask, "why the fuck would I care about how hard it is to move the Z, it's only 0.2mm at a time each layer?" And the answer is because the bed mesh has the Z moving in minute amounts all the time, and the less heft you have the better. It's not a huge difference, but it's there.
It really comes down to looking cool and being a challenge to build that I think most people go with the 2.4.

>>2500232
Might be the "silent board" but the thing is fucking LOUD. Do you guys have any links to the best priced m4 screws you guys use for projects/mods?

Fuck it, i ordered a Tronxy X5SA Pro for 323€ incl. 3 day shipping in Germany.
I think i can solve the problems it has easy enough and the price is really nice.
This thing is huge, 330x330x400 build volume, about 700x700x600 on the table!
I have a Prusa Mini that i use mainly, but sometimes you need a larger volume.

>>2500299
Why tho? Ender has rubber wheels, that leaves only the mainboard and fans to make noise. Should be easy enough to fix.

>>2500282
Cheers.

>>2500302
Its probably the fans

Easy to install.
Take no space.
Happy childhood.

>>2500108
>I’m experimenting with glassing atm (brushing diluted epoxy adhesive onto glass fibre cloth onto parts)
Yeah, fibreglassing low-density prints sounds like a decent way to get good strength too. Or printing a mould, covering it with mould release, and fibreglassing the inside. That way you can ensure you get a smooth outside.

Also buy casting epoxy instead of using adhesive epoxy.

>>2500311
>Babby's first scrap factory
I could see Asian kids being good at this though.

Now THIS is what 3D printers were invented for: https://www.printables.com/model/238027-swole-pikachu-with-massive-cock

>>2500013
>Here is the thing, i personally don't think any of that is needed if you print PLA.
I'm also printing PETG and looking at getting into other filaments. PETG comes out a little rough still.

>Next step would be CoreXY instead of bed slinger.
After searching that, I have to agree. I can SEE the subtle wobble in the model and the frame when the bed moves on the printer and I know it's having some effect. I've been thinking that I need to weigh down my print stand and add supports to the gantry on the printer but that doesn't address the prints wobbling on the bed.
Thanks, anon.

>>2499703

Yeah, it just irritates me.

Honestly the printer is reliable and fast. Not sure it was worth the price but it doesnt give me any issues in actual use.

>>2500458

Oh, one other gripe. It lacks accessible USB outlets. I really want to attach a touchscreen to it, but I end up controlling it from my phone instead. Convenience wise having a separate screen attached would be nice... I have one attached to all my other printers.

>bought TPU filament the other day
in for what?

Is standard cheap resin as strong as epoxy adhesive? I use cheap epoxy and thin with a little paint thinner into parts A and B before mixing and mix and brush on to cover stuff in fiber glass cloth. But when it’s thinned this once it takes fucking hours to set instead of 5-10 min.

3D printer resin I can use a UV lamp to cure once brushed on. So was thinking it’d be convenient

>>2500573
I got some anyway, $30 dollaydoos from local store for clear esun standard resin, rated tensile strength higher than epoxy, and thinned $2 epoxy from Bunnings likely does not reach full strength, will see how it goes next time I do it. It should be way more convenient to use though

>>2500601
not sure what it will do when diluted, safe bet is to wait for the thinner to evaporate before curing.

>>2500440
>I can SEE the subtle wobble
Those are called ringing, caused by resonances. CoreXY has them, albeit reduced.
To fix ringing, you calculate the exact movements to compat it in the slicer. That reduces ringing a great deal or allows you to crank up speed.
That, of course, can be done with a bedslinger als well.
>>2500528
Butt plug, guessing by this gentlemans gayness.
>>2500458
My god, look at them going fast!
https://youtu.be/IGoTz43Iyls
>>2500573
>cheap resin
Regular resin is acrylic. Its brittle by nature. If there are no forces acting on it, it might work.
I use a UV paint for protecting traces on repaired old computer mainboards (think collectibles, like old Macintoshes). UV hardening the paint is easy and quick with a UV flashlight. I would think it would work for your application, if done only for optics.

>>2500646
No. I bought it since making custom rubber gaskets and bushings sounds like it would be really useful. But I hear it's a pain to print.

Also I bought this UV-hardening glue from aliexpress. As you might imagine, it doesn't work. Go legit with glues.

Do larger glass bed warp easily? I have an ender 5 plus that no matter what I did and how much I chased the numbers when leveling to get them even I couldn't get consistent adhesion with my PETG, tried a wide range of bed temps and first layer speeds and everything else, even with painter's tape or glue sticks it would still be a 50/50
As soon as I swapped to a flexible textured PEI sheet that just magnets on I've had zero issues with adhesion

>>2500649
Use a raft and auto level like bltouch, if it's bad you may need to set probe offset closer than normal to make sure low pointd are squished down, a raft will then give a flat surface to print on.

After auto homing and setting Z probe offset and store, auto home again, then check the bed corners with a piece of paper etc and manual level them out to the new Z0 this should get it flat as possible rather than trying to compensate with lifting/raising bed corners causing bowing in either direction. Auto home again and check Z probe offset one last time, then run the auto level check and should be good to go usually without having to resort to squishing first layer too close.

ordered a elegoo neptune 3 while half asleep the other night because the canadian dollar is dogshit and i wanted to save a few bucks. over the last two days i actually put the effort into learning a little more about the hardware and it looks like there is a neptune 3 pro coming out and the sovol sv06 exists, only $30 usd more than what i spent on the neptune. is it worth getting fucked on return shipping and buying an sv06 instead?

i intend to mainly print jigs and templates to help with some woodworking and a bunch of shop/home organization shit. looking for something that can print reasonably durable and stable material. from what ive read bowden extruders cant really handle abrasive or flexible filament very well and direct drive might work better for my needs. sv06 is $240, return shipping probably $25 usd making the difference $65. i dont know what it would cost to upgrade to dd if needed but i think its going to be more than $65.7

>>2500646
Update. Doesn't work. Adhesion to foam, PLA Rafts is extremely poor. It does solidfy in woven glass fibre but somehow males the glass fibre weak and allows to be torn easily. I used a cheap UV torch for curing, sometimes won't fully cure and some spots will remain wet regardless of how long I leave it. On other surfaces like cardboard cures straight away. Odd. A UV curing epoxy would be nice.

>>2500646
Also curious about try this
https://riot.com.au/products/ultra-clear-fast-curing-epoxy-resin-1500ml-2-1-by-volume?dfw_tracker=107798-39637671051341&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgribBhDkARIsAASA5buHf9qYBoirMWnSVcClMO10ZxyW3uXDyRog-2nj7mgY8GybaiFvGIUaAh6MEALw_wcB

Casting resin, but it says epoxy, so should be just as strong as epoxy adhesive?

>>2500636
The resin doesn't need to be diluted to be brushed on which is fine as it's think enough, but it doesn't work well at all. Premixing cheap syringe A B epoxy into two glass jars with a little thinner and mixing them as needed still works though.

>>2500649
I didn't think glass beds warp at all. So far i never used one, but i have a XS5A Pro incoming that has a coated 330x330mm glass bed. It's huge. Should i be worried?
>>2500653
There is always the next best thing on the horizon. I wouldn't worry, it's a good printer as it is (it's a Ender3 v2 clone, right?). Maybe list the changes between yours and the Pro.
You can turn the Ender 3 to direct drive for 5 bucks, cheaper if you print it yourself:
https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B09MHN6B24
It's just a fucking bracket and some screws, you already have the motor and extruder mechanics. Don't let the Chinks chink you, bud.
>>2500683
Interesting. Now you know.

Check out this Rodime Systems Cobra 70e i got recently. I'm printing a bracket to insert a newer hdd and power supply as we speak, without even taking out the old stuff (which still works but is loud as fuck).

>>2500699
A RaSCSI (basically a SCSI1 hat for a RPi4) case i printed in ColorFabb Ral 7044 to match the Macintosh color. It's perfect.
A 2kg spool costs 110€ with shipping.

>>2500701
Don't mind the texture, i tried coasting, didn't work out. Bought a smooth PEI sheet for my Prusa Mini, surface looks like this now.

>>2500699
Well now I have a bottle of 3d resin and only an fdm printer. You said it's acrylic? So basically it's acrylic clear cost undiluted I could thin it and add some pigments or pearls and use it as an acrylic paint that cures by UV? I have some spray guns from painting my car doors and some props already, though considering how piss poor the adhesion was... Hmm maybe over primer

>>2500108
I've been wanting to try that for a while, specifically on petg. Have you done it on petg? My hope is that petg sticks to virtually nothing like pet and that you can just use the print as a mold, without release agent.

>>2498720
wrong nozzle size
extreme underextrusion
possible fucked up slicer for anything having to do with laying plastic down

this is like every possible issue at once. you have terrible layers, stringing, some globby shit sticking out the side (how does that even happen?), zero adhesion between walls. this almost looks intentional, i genuinely don't know what combination of factors could possibly lead to a print being this bad

>>2498975
i love freecad. reminds me of mastercam. it's just really easy to sketch shit out, dimension it like a normal print, then pad it as needed. sure it spergs out often but what cad program doesn't

>>2500780
>how does that even happen
basically under extrusion causes this too

What's the better option, Jubilee, Prusa XL, or Bambu X1? I don't mind some assembly, but I'd like something that I can rely on for daily printing

>>2500800
>Prusa XL
I have a Prusa Mini clone. Very detailed engineering. I guess they will be around for some time.
But is the XL even available? I know i had to wait 4 month for the Prusa Mini and eventually gave up and ordered a chink kit, which worked out fine.
Never heard of the other two.

i have a part that is going to be subjected to sustained pressure and some friction. nothing crazy, just consistent. should this be printed out of ABS then post-processed, or another material? the part is likely to be dropped, and will be weighted down when it is dropped.

>>2500982
TPU for buttplugs.

>>2500778
You will need a glue that sticks to petg. Pic related is the thinnest (and cheapest) /woven/ glass fibre cloth I could find, and brushed on with epoxy thinned with paint thinner. The difference with just one layer is unreal, wing went from 11g to 15g. The weight on it is 163g. It’s a super cheap soft foam glider. Apparently epoxy works with petg.

What are you wanting to do as a mold? Not reinforce petg prints?

>>2500994
stop being homoerotic and answer the question, this is obviously not a buttplug. this is a definitely not /k/ project that is literally just a 3d printed tube for shit to get pushed through

>>2501025
Nah mate, it's a dilator, i'm sure of it.

I'm fucking done with PLA, so tired of having to slow everything down from my ABS speeds and still having things break off when the overhangs warp up into diamond-hard little tank traps for the nozzle to crash into and possibly break off.
What is wrong with you people?

>>2501005
Car body panels, I have a MPCNC with a 2'x3'x idk 5" or 6" volume (probably a little bit more as the extruder will be smaller than the router I have in there), I haven't set it up for printing yet but I have a titan knockoff extruder and volcano knockoff hotend with 1mm nozzle. I figure I could start small to try and work my way up to quarter panels and bumpers in sections. Limited to PETG because no heated bed and I figure it would be perfect for molds because PE and PET don't stick well to any adhesive.

Attention scalpers: you're done, just dump your supplies and there will be an end to this madness. Get a real job while you're at it.

I caved.
After 6 years of 3d printing....
I bought a Prusa.

>>2501166
You could have built several Vorons in the time it will take Josef to finally get around to shipping out your Prusa.

>>2501169
Kits are in stock so it looks like it will ship next week.

>>2501169
>>2501173
I mean Prusa wouldn't just go on the internet and lie would he

>>2501173
That's really not bad, enjoy your printer (on reddit)!

>>2501190
I was thinking about taking a picture of the box and making a post analogous to a journey.
I might even get spicy and take the parts out first.

>>2501082
amen brother, come back to abs, have a good sniff, and never look back

>>2496074
my birthday is coming up and i'd like to up my printer tier. i have an enclosed ender 3 right now. what makes more sense? putting a ton of time into reworking my current printer, or finding something in a similar form factor to replace it?

i am looking for a faster print, and/or more accurate. i also want to get into exotic filaments like polycarbonate, nylon, and maybe even ASA. if i end up doing a new printer, i would want it to use 1.75mm filaments and ideally it would still be something that can fit in my enclosure so i don't have to replace that too.

>>2501194
Oh wow, delivering to real hard hitting scientific research here!

>>2501204
You're pretty close to being able to do that with what you've got, just make sure you have an all metal hotend and maybe upgrade the heater tube for it.
Otherwise, just go with a coreXY where the frame is the enclosure, but more importantly get one that runs Klipper now that Raspberry Pi's are coming down in price.

are there any actual reliable multi-material solutions? IDEX and toolchangers don't seem to have a whole lot of support, the Prusa XL will be the first mainstream printer with it but if it's anything like their MMU it won't see a lot of use and I can't really tell if toolchanging is a realistic solution or not. E3D made that prototype, released the design, and just dropped the concept. Splicing/cutting solutions are all pretty niche, including MMU and Mosaic. Multi material hotends are apparently all pretty bad.

>>2501219
i put an all metal hot end on my printer in like 2019/2018, can't remember for sure. i've done some good PETG prints with it. heater tube is fine i think, i'm not sure because i'm just now starting back up after about 2 years away from it

>>2500780
Read >>2498777, >>2498810.
It was me being even more of a retard than I thought.

>>2501260
See: >>2499979, it looks like the most robust solution for dual material prints, but there is no way in hell I'm going to build one.

>>2496074
>but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD.
freecad is awesome if you've ever once handled a print in your life. you literally just draw a print, pad it, and it works.

>>2501190
>shilling chinkshit
>calling others reddit
lmao

finally broke down and bought one of those meme nozzle Xs
shit's actually so nice, exact same settings and zero clumping with my PETG

>>2501315
Please point me to the White manufacturer of stepper motors, linear rails, aluminum extrusions, and MCU/drivers/Pi/PSU then, because just about everything else on my Voron is made an the USA by a Straight White Unvaccinated Christian Male Racist.

>>2496074
z offset is -3.57, but I always get these blob lines or a super thin line or 0 adhesion.

Any advice?

>>2501436
Have you levelled the bed properly? Auto home and set z offset correctly, then manually level the corners to match to reduce curvature as much as possible, Auro home and readjust z offset, then auto level the bed.

>>2501436
Looks underextruded as fuck, to be honest.

>>2501291
I do a $20/yr license for solidworks educational.
works good for me

>>2496086
I agree. I bought a printer b/c of the thingiverse open source concept.
Then I was devastated there wasn't an underground troll / anarchy library of files.

>>2501485
>/diy/

>>2501436
basic questions but how close is your nozzle and what filament are you using
is the nozzle damaged
is the hotend clogged
does it actually pull 100mm off the spool if you tell it to

I followed this guide to make a scuffed macro pad, I'm wondering how hard it would be/if it's even possible using a raspberry pico to add a volume knob to it

whats a good printer that "just works" right out of the box like Prusa printers?
my buddy just finished building his and he said he barely had to tweak anything for prints to come out perfect.
I know ender3s are the popular choice but everytime i see it mentioned anywhere, people are always having issues with it and constantly having to tweak it and shit just to get one basic print going. I dont mind having to tinker with things but if its something i constantly have to do, then i feel like its just not worth my time.

>>2501291
I like it as well, but maybe I am being biased since I also do coding as a hobby in python, and I want to try freeCAD api at some point.

>>2501615
Prusa of course, but the Bambu X1 looks pretty good for something with a little higher performance right out of the box. Just about everything else is for people who enjoy fixing their printers.

>>2501558
I imagine it can work, actually here is a quick google search on the matter

https://www.onetransistor.eu/2021/04/media-keys-rpi-pico-circuitpython.html

>>2501615
Keep in mind, only the $1100 + shipping assembled prusa works out of the box. You have to assemble and tune the kit.

>>2501615
prusa's basically the only one that you'll be able to go from unpacking to printing at a good quality instantly, everything else you'll have to tweak things till you get good results, and stuff like the cr-10/ender3 are popular for that because they're cheap and they've been around so long there's plenty of sources to read up on how to fine tune

>>2501643
>You have to assemble and tune the kit.
oh, i thought that was the only option. sorry, when i meant "out of the box" i didnt really mean that quite literally as in already assembled. i always though prusa were only made as kits you need to build.

>prusa's basically the only one that you'll be able to go from unpacking to printing at a good quality instantly
why is that though? i would imagine by now there would be some company that can take what prusa has done and provide a cheaper option. what exactly are they doing different?

>>2501615
My ender 3 pro worked out of the box on stock settings. You have to manually level the bed unless you install an auto level or get a model that comes with one. You generally have to tinker with shit anyway when you want to start changing shit.

>>2501615
>whats a good printer that "just works" right out of the box
Even the Prusas need to be calibrated.
Since you don't want a Prusa, i recommend to get a Prusa Mini clone kit from Fysetc, you can benefit from Prusas engineering without the cost.
Don't buy the chink print-parts though, they use PLA which is shit. I have a guy in Spain via Ebay that sends me the parts in PETG for 40€. It's actually cheaper than to print them yourself.
The kit costs around 220€ from Aliepress, the printed parts 40€. Done, Prusa Mini clone for 260€.
I built 6 kits by now.

>>2501615
monoprice mini delta here.
1. plug in cord
2. print
never leveled the bed, never printed a calibration cube.

>>2501812
>Since you don't want a Prusa
nowhere did i say i didnt want one. just looking for a possible alternative.

so im messing with anycubics slicer, and i have a multi monitor set up, like in the picture. by default, it only snaps programs to the left or right and fills half the screen, or snaps to the top and fills the entire monitor.
the slicer, when moved on the left screen upwards, snaps at the red line. this isnt the middle of that monitor, its actually the top of screen 2, the bottom right monitor. it wont allow it to move above this point. it will snap to the "top edge", filll directly down, but not expand left or right.
I dont really care that i cant easily move it to where i want, ive just never seen that sort of behavior. why would you make a program do this, or if its a bug, how did they even break it that way?

>>2501926
Never used the Anycubics slicer so it may be a special snowflake but programs don't normally have a concept of monitors, sizes, layouts, resolutions or positions. The desktop environment handles that. As far as the program knows it could be on a million monitors or one. When you drag a window to the top of the screen to maximize it or grab an edge to scale it that's the desktop environment doing things. All the program gets is a resize event and/or a repaint event.

>>2501934
special snowflake seems most likely. the only thing ive seen do anything like that is old vidya getting stuck in the top left of the monitor it starts in, that 3dfx, glide something something wrapper stuff. anyways, was just a "huh, thats odd" moment.

>>2501945
oh and if i just hit fullscreen while its on the left monitor it fullscreens just like it should, ignoring the red line barrier. just cant drag it there.

NEW THREAD
>>2501956
>>2501956
>>2501956
>>2501956
>>2501956

>>2501842
He said he wants a printer, not a geometry nerds jack-off trophy!

>>2499971
I tried using Solid Edge at work and it made me want to blow my brains out, constraints and dimensions basically don't fucking matter because it just changes them at random. NX has been my go-to for school and work but Fusion 360 is really solid for being free, just gets annoying if your internet is spotty or when they have maintenance you can't use it due to the cloud based nature of it. I'd be tempted to pirate NX but pirating software in general just spooks me out.

Guys I cant print on my Ender 5 bc the screw on the part that feeds the filament is too tight, but nothing has changed? I havent adjusted it and now it just goes brpbrpbrpbrpbrp when I try to print and nothing comes out. What the fuck?