/diy/ - Do It Yourself

First, you fucks.
Check out that awesome iris in OPs pic! >:^)
Check out my shower lady!

>>2465314
Sanding her right now, will spray paint her in white and then hang on the bathroom door.

monkey with bat? monkies with bats.

>>2465314
Great, another African historical revision...

>>2465340
but she looks just like Arial

>>2465339
But why?

What's the difference between the FlashForge Adventurer 4 and 4 Lite?
Only thing I can see is the 4 Lite lacks the web cam.

Does a web-cam really add $200?

>>2465346
One of my D&D friends is playing a hadozee (flying monkey) monk with a tetsubo soon. I went to look for minis and "monkey miniature" turned up this baboon with a suspiciously tetsubo like club. I printed the white as a test then thought how much fun it would be to drop a troop of baboons with clubs on a party so I filled the build plate and next encounter in my campaign will be 10 baboons with tetsubo.

>>2465347
depens on the quality. but also it might include networking to go with the webcam because it's no good seeing your print spaghetti if you cannot stop the printer.

>>2465353

saars, the system does not enjoy the idea of me using flammable liquids to clean my resin prints
what are our non-flammable alternative sirs

>>2465366
Are you afraid that it will react with the print, or something will catch on fire?

>>2465369
Not me, but since I live under a more overbearing system than just renting alone (real good deal on rent however, electricity and internet is included all for a cheap price), if I'm doing something risk-inducing I have to answer to some overlords as I'll call them, and while the resin dangers were no issue, they reacted on IPA and other flammables
Norway btw, does limit my choices a bit

>>2465378
water washable resins ya dink

would it be stupid to use a copper or nickel anti seize as a thermal paste in your heater block? I have some old tubes of it where the metal and oil have almost completely separated so I can get easily get very dry metallic powder out of them. of course they can withstand 400 to 500 c+ so that's not an issue but I'm just curious if they would actually increase thermal conductivity or make it worse, or cause some other unwanted side effect.

is there a method for telling how much filament you've got left in the spool?
thx wizards

>>2465405
i forgot to fucking subtract it and I think my next prints gonna run dry lol

>>2465405
$5 kitchen scale with a freedom units/free healthcare units switch + exact same spool but empty. I assume you can figure out the rest.

>>2465404
I use anti-seize for the heatbreak-to-heater block, heatbreak-to-heatsink, nozzle-to-heater block, on the heater cartridge, on the thermistor, and on the set screws securing the cartridge and thermistor to ensure that I'll be able to get everything apart without drama in case I ever need to. I've had issues with seized up hotend parts in the past.

As far as thermal conductivity goes, I'm sure it either doesn't make much of a difference or it may help by filling in air gaps.

>>2465405
I use an old ovature filament spool's label. Can just hold it up to the side of another spool to get a good idea how much is left.

>>2465445
Have any master spools been designed with this feature?

>>2465405
run it off on to an empty spool and measure it this time
take the diameter of filament and measure the depth and width and calculate how much is left

>>2465451
What's a master spool? AFAIK only overture spools have these labels.

>>2465455
Reusable filament spool format specified by RichRap.

>>2465405
weight, but when it runs low enough I figure out the circumference and get an estimate length.

>>2465445
Careful, different spools have different inner diameters, and the weight to volume ratio is dependent on what kind of plastic it is too.

>>2465405
id = empty spool hub diameter
od = filament diameter of full spool
w = weight of new spool
m = measured height of filament from spool hub

WeightLeft =
//weight per area//
( w / (PI*(od/2)*(od/2) - PI*(id/2)*(id/2)) )
//multiplied by area//
*( PI*(id/2+m)*(id/2+m) - PI*(id/2)*(id/2))

phew

>>2465537
Stop oppressing minorities.

My first semi successful test of Mainsail's Exclude Object function. This would have come in handy so many times in the past!

I don't usually print capeshit, but when I do...

>>2465631
How many g's is the purge block?

>>2465632
No purge block, it's just glued together. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2549275

>>2465636
Nice.

Yes, and it only took about 5 hours of printing and 20 minutes of assembly too.
I don't really know why I built an ERCF in the first place, I'll probably end up just using it for doing color changes at different layer numbers since I still just don't like the idea of having a huge purge block.

Do you guys oil your filament? Have seen peeps using a sponge to oil their filament and wonder what the pros might be.
I would intuitively say the oil prevents proper bonding of the layers.

>>2465702
i use a a dust filter sponge and also dab a drop of mineral oil in it when i switch fils never had adhesion problems its not soaking in it just a slight lube that probably gets mixed enough in the melted plastic to not have any physical change

I honestly like 'transparent' filament.

What's this print error called, and what should I do to fix it? I'm using prima matte black PLA at 215 degrees (the recommended temperature from the manufacturer, I've tried 220 and 205 and it didn't help), slicing in Cura 5 with basically the default settings. Ender 3.
The layer lines look worse than they really are, the issue I'm having is that, especially near corners, there are these small holes in the outer wall of the print. But as you can see they sometimes appear a bit away from the wall of a print too.

What's this print error called and how do I fix it? I'm getting these tiny holes near corners, but sometimes a bit away from the corners also as you can see. Ender 3, Prima Matte Black PLA at 215 degrees (manufacturer recommended, 205 and 220 made no difference), slicer is cura 5 with basically the defaults.

I think the parts that are most badly affected are those right next to where the printer starts an outside wall after a move, but even if I turn retraction off entirely I don't get any improvement.

>>2465594
looks uh great?

>get some PLA+
>print temp is really high
>shit expands like great stuff while printing
>print has failed 5x now
what the fuck is this cursed ass filament?

>>2465802
brand?

>>2465789
https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

Perhaps under extrusion or bed drop? Too new to this to know for sure.

Does anyone have any recommendations for filament driers? I notice my petg starts to get quite stringy as I get to about half way through the roll and makes the prints looks shitty. I’ve started looking at food dehydrators but the one I want is about £100.

>>2465812
Sunlu S1. It costs about $50 and you can use it to keep hygroscopic filaments like nylon and PC dry while using them.

>>2465789
Is that where your Z-seam is?
I'm thinking those drop-outs are where retraction happens. Something like too high a coasting volume in Cura, or too much retraction or the like.
Take a look at your mesh in your slicer, and see what's going on in those spots. Look for a z-seam there, or if that's where the head is leaving for somewhere else. That will at least tell you where to look for your problem (and if nothing is happening in those spots, you can start looking for problems in your printer, like ringing, dirty slides or whatever)

>>2465850
not the guy you are replying to but yea, thats probably the z seam. It retracts, it extrudes, but on the z seam something with less quality. I got a v6 just to remedy this problem.

>>2465806
thicc

>>2465850
Yeah, that's where the Z-seam is, but as you can see it's not always at the z-seam, sometimes it's a bit further in. I've tried turning retraction off entirely and it hasn't fixed it.
>too high a coasting volume
That was my first thought, but coasting is off.

>>2465802
You cooling is inadequate. Slow your print, significantly, and turn up the cooling fan speed. How hot are you printing? Most 3D850/3D870 PLA+ you'll be around 210C, if you're pushing more than 215 then bring it back down.

What you're seeing there is "curl" or "layer-warp," plastic is cooling too slowly. You end up with a large temperature difference across multiple layers, and as the plastic cools it contracts, causing this. When you cool more intensely, or print more slowly to allow more time for cooling, layers are "set" firmly, and successive layers can't pull/tug them around. That's a really simple way of thinking about it, but yeah, your part-cooling fan is inadequate for the speed and temps you're running.

First time buyer here. I ordered this. I wanted the base Ender 3 but then I saw this, and for 150$ more I get 4 upgrades and a free spool. And it's premounted mostly.

Any recommendation or critique?

>>2465884
My main use will be Board game pieces and small figurines

>>2465888
>low poly
don't be a faggot

>>2465890
The low poly stuff is mostly to print test. Also, less chance for error, you know?

>>2465884
>>2465888
Big Printer comes with Big Printer problems. Don't add extra complication if you're going to be printing teeny-tiny stuff. It's the right choice if your goal is print big stuff, then you would need it of course, but if you don't need it then I don't recommend it.

You want to spend that much? Consider a Creality Ender 3 S1 or S1 Pro.
You'll get more bang for your buck, an easier and better experience overall, and you'll be able to produce higher quality results out of the box than the "Max."

I wish newbs would stop buying Crealty. The stuff takes a lot of fiddling to make work well, where other stuff just works.
>>2465884
This isn't of any help to you, as you've already ordered it, but for small stuff and FDM I would have recommended the Monoprice Select Mini, because it just works out of the box.
You would get better results for game pieces, etc with resin, even though resin printing is a bit daunting, with all the goo and cleaning and so on.
In any case, you still have a good chance of success. Just be patient.

>>2465884
Waste of money, you bought the wrong printer. It'll be fine, but still, you made a poor and clearly uninformed decision and wasted your money. Could've had a significantly better printer for that price, that'd be way more appropriate for what you say you'll be using it for.

>>2465900
>>2465899
>>2465897
I cancelled it. What would you recommend then?
Something like that?

>>2465903
The Elegoo stuff have big coupons right now, so pretty tempting. I have a free room, so the whole ventilation issue should be okay.

>>2465903
Those are resin printers, you'll want to run them in a garage or a shed because the fumes are not healthy to breathe in.
They're the best choice for high detail though, if you're doing stuff like Warhammer figurines they're absolutely what you should go for.

>>2465913
Would an empty room with ventilation be okay? I live in a condo.

>>2465915
How willing you are to risk lung cancer is up to you. I personally wouldn't do it, but if you feel confident your room is well ventilated enough, who am I to say what you should do? What you could do is get one of those "grow tents" with a ventilation hose, and run a small fan or whatever to suck all the fumes outdoors.

>>2465917
Hmm, see a lot of work. I could always put it on my balcony, but UV light is a problem, so I would need a tent and winter would cause issues.

What would you recommend me then in the less than 500$ total range for the printer?

>>2465915
Hell yes it'd be fine. Smell might permeate a little, some folks HATE it and others barely notice it (lucky me), but it's important to note that you can become more sensitive to it over time.

It's one of the notable characters of UV sensitive resin, your sensitivity to it in its uncured form can increase with prolonged exposure. So, you might not mind the smell at all, or notice a drop on your skin, but after a couple of years of working with it you find a drop on the skin makes you break out in hives, and the smell you never cared about before now gives you a headache and burns your eyes.

Limit your exposure. Wear gloves, wear a face shield or at least eye-protection, wear a mask if you've got something decent but don't waste your time with a covid rag. Wash your hands thoroughly every single time, even if you were wearing gloves, even if you're 99% sure there's no resin on you. People get complacent because when they first encounter it, it's no big deal, not realizing they're making it worse for themselves in the long run. Don't end up like the nigger who operated the printers at my local hackerspace, he was an avid resin printer and an avid hater of nitrile gloves, and he can't even walk into the printer lab now without wheezing and breaking out in hives, funny shit.

Be smart and it's perfectly safe, be a retard and you get what you deserve.

>>2465921
Yeah, I wanted resin at first and that's the issues I learned about that made me go to filament instead. Filament is less clean but at least you cant die easily from it.

What would you recommend for Filament for board game pieces then? I'm not into Wargaming, mostly board games. So pawns, deckboxes and ect. I had an idea to make One piece themed pieces for

>>2465891
>Also, less chance for error, you know?
no?

>>2465927
I'm totally a newb, but wouldnt less support requirement make the prints fail less?

>>2465903
monoprice mini delta. it's the price of your upgrades ($150) works out of the box, and is the prefect intro to FDM printing. also a great size for game upgrades, terrain pieces, boxes barrels, first player markers, even card boxes.

>>2465907
>current year
>buying a 4k printer

>>2465929
low poly has nothing to do with supports

>>2465929
As someone who runs 4 printers full-time at home, I often forget that supports exist.
Any asshole with an Ender 3 can handle >60 degree overhangs and HUGE bridges if you tune for it.
Auto-Generated supports are trash anyway, and whenever it's absolutely necessary to support something I prefer to design bespoke supports into the model.

>>2465920
Biqu B1.
Great value, huge print area for the price, about equal to the Ender 3/Prusa in print quality.

>>2465933
I want a multi-color printer so I can do dissovable support.

>>2465930
I find that most premade designs are made to fit within a 200mm by 200mm area, presumably to be compatible with the Ender 3 or Prusas. 110mm print area is tiny! If he ever wants to do anything but print minis, he's going to regret buying such a small machine.

>>2465930
It seem to be 350 here in Canada, so about 266 US. Would that be an okay price?

>>2465934
>>2465936
So the Biqu seem to be around the Enders 3 price, yeah. It come out of the box and is pretty easy of use?

My main use will be small figurines, board game pieces. The bigger things would be like a Planter for a friend. But most prints would be less than 4 inch high.

>>2465939
It ships the same as the Ender, "mostly preassembled". Basically the base+bed are one piece, and the gantry+tower another. The user needs to bolt the two together, but it's pretty easy. Took me an hour to go from unboxing my Ender to printing on it, the Biqu should be similar.

>>2465936
sure, I've had to split one part in 5 years. printing a chess set would be 2 prints for each color. but I do mostly D&D and boardgame shit exactly like he wants.

>>2465937
oh hell no, CAD cannot be that bad of exchange. I just bought one for my nephew off monoprice website for $170 shipped with a spool of filament.

>>2465939
if you're in the $500 price range you can safely go for a big bed. you cannot go wrong with more, it's just more expensive. also it doesn't hurt to only use a little piece of it, and you can use different little pieces or stack a lot of small projects for like overnight (9 1hour pieces printed over 10hours in one go). It's just for the pricepoint and no shit to build, the monoprice has been so fucking good. you don't need all metal hot end or bigger power supply to start, those are things you upgrade when you need them. I've got a lot of experience to evaluate my next printer and it will either be an 8K for minis or a coreXY, but for now it's just smol and mighty for me.

>>2465939
The Mini Delta is big enough for what you say you're going to print, but if you ever find some really cool STL or come up with some other project, you may find the small print volume to be limiting. A larger printer isn't going to print lower quality just because it's bigger. In my experience, while you definitely can split a print into multiple parts and glue them together after, you're always going to end up with an ugly seam, be that from elephants foot or just imperfect sanding.
You shouldn't spend extra on volume you won't need, but it's silly to spend the same on less volume.
>>2465943
>you don't need all metal hot end or bigger power supply to start
You can add all metal later on basically any printer, the hot ends are more or less universal, and you only need it anyway if you're doing ABS or nylon. PLA and PETG print perfectly well with a PTFE hotend and will be good enough for 99% of users. Also all-metal hotends will clog easier, because they're just not as good at separating the hot side from the cold side. Definitely don't go all-metal from the start, if you need it you can get it later.

>>2465884
I would say get a Prusa Mini clone kit, they are easy to assemble and print out of the box better than any Ender 3 i ever had. Look for the Fysetc kits at Aliexpress. There are two kits, 3.2 inch display and 2.8. I personally like the smaller one, but it doesn't matter.
The printed parts are best bought at Ebay: https://www.ebay.de/itm/283976648374
You should pay not more than $250 with everything. The printer is perfect for small high detail shit.

>>2465947
If you are in the US you pay probably far less, because of 18% sales tax around here.
I had the following printers:
Anet A8
Creality CR30
Creality Ender 2
Creality Ender 3
Prusa Mini Clone

The Prusa Mini clone so far is the best out of them, followed by the Ender 2, then Ender 3, then CR30. The Anet A8 is garbage tier.

>>2465947
Why did you mount the printer to the wall?

>>2465952
I didn't. The house it at the side of a mountain.

>>2465945
I cant find the Mini Delta for less than 350 here in Canada. With conversion, it should be around 200$ max. No idea why the big price margin.

>>2465955
ah fug, it's sold out on monoprice site. that's why.

>>2465955
Alright, some shit worth considering:
https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-Select-Mini-Printer-Assembled/dp/B073ZLSMFT/
It's small, but it is good, it's solid, it's well liked and well documented, it is a good fucking printer on the whole.
It'll do great work right out of the box once you've got the hang of it.
If you feel like improving it, modifying it, there are a ton of resources out there.
Bed is small enough that it's a joke to even consider doing automatic bed leveling or anything like that, it's an easy printer to live with.

https://www.amazon.ca/Voxelab-Cleaning-Detection-Compatible-Materials/dp/B095JNF4GY/
It's just another Ender 3 clone, in this case more comparable to the Ender3V2, but with less bullshit markup.
Build quality and tech support is right on par with Creality, it's just off-the-shelf Chinese parts like 99% of printers.
Absolutely worth considering, similar quality for a lower price is hard to argue with.

>>2465994
>https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-Select-Mini-Printer-Assembled/dp/B073ZLSMFT/
>
$175 on their site
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21711

>>2466020
$250 CAD from Amazon in Canada.

From Monoprice, that's $175 USD, or $230 CAD. Shipped to Canada it's over $240 USD, that's >$300 CAD, assuming there's no additional charge for the currency exchange.

>>2466028
>the true cost of socialized medicine

>>2466032
>snow monkeys

are there any partial infills that are strongrer than 100% due to their design or is 100% infill the strongest?

>>2465859
25cm

>>2466090
100% is the strongest, but if you go for a really high wall count to get to 100% fill it will be stronger than just using your normal wall count and then selecting 100% infill. There are some trade-offs though, like more tendency to warp.

>>2466090
>>2466120

if you want to close to 100% infill but keep the print time from increasing too much, use thicker walls for infill, there is a section in this voron PIF profile, and this may help you out for what you want.

>https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Ellis-PIF-Profile#infill-line-widths

>>2466127
oops meant line width.

>>2465296
How is coloring in pic related done?

Its easy enough to scan someone & print a low texture model.

Is it some sort of cnc paint sprayer machine ?

>>2466141
Inkjet printing on each layer.

>>2466141
This looks like it was done on a powder bed 3D printer of some kind.
Layers of powder fused by a binding agent and colored with ink.
It's similar to (or sometimes literally is) an inkjet printhead, printing onto a thin layer of a (nylon?) powder. Machine then lays out another thin layer of powder above that, rinse and repeat.

The most notable example I can think of is HP with their Multi Jet Fusion printers.

Mimaki makes some of the nicest full-color prints I've seen with their inkjet printers, but those are quite different. They apply UV resin in a manner similar to an inkjet printer, augment the color with the addition of ink, and immediately cure it in place. Their printers can do incredible work!

Pic related, Benchy printed on a Mimaki printer, definitely the printer I'd be most interested in if I had a budget of over $250K.

>>2466141
Looks like a cracked version of Photoshop was the main thing.

>>2466153
Do you happen to know how heroforgeTM does colored minis?

>>2465405
you get a filament runout sensor and don't bother fucking with inaccurate measurements or math

>>2466176
Hero Forge actually uses Shapeways printing services!
The "premium" base-color options for painting are done with SLA printers.
The current full-color ones you get are done with a Mimaki 3DUJ-553 polyjet printer, exactly what was referenced here >>2466153

>>2466141
that's full color sandstone printing. it has a characteristic dull pastel color and roughness. it also picks up color very well.

>>2466141
>>2466185
this (https://www.holodeck3dstudios.com/)) is an example of a company that does this. they're printing in VisiJet PXL, which is a cemented sandstone-like material with weak material properties.

>>2465884
get rid of that $18 3d print removal kit and just buy a $5 paint scraper/razor scraper/glass scraper

>>2466020
>>2466028
Yeah I checked. It's 68.87 US to ship it 45 away from the border.
So it would cost 241 US, or 318 CAD

What's the best place to get aluminium extrusion for 3d printers in the US?

>>2466258
What kind of volume you buying?

>>2466270
Enough for a single printer, just converting one.

>>2466271
Amazon.

>>2466272
What's a decent price per foot?

>>2466272
>>2466273
Check McMaster first to find what exactly you need (they're surprisingly reasonable for aluminum extrusion for whatever reason). If you can find it for at least ~40% cheaper than the McMaster price, that's a good buy in my book.

>>2466273
It's depend on what exactly you're after. Assuming 2040/4040 double slot it's dumby expensive. Pandemic shot prices through the roof and they've not come down.

>>2466280
>>2466281
Thanks for the info, I'll check that out.

>>2466273
>>2466280
For example, McMaster has 30 ft of 2020 (https://www.mcmaster.com/5537T101/)) for $102.12 + shipping. Amazon has it for $79.99 (https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Extrusion-European-Standard-Industrial/dp/B09DYJWBGD).).

If this were industry, we would just grab the McMaster stuff. I'd get the Amazon stuff as a home user.

>>2466281
Well, what can you do. It's something you usually don't need *too* much of, at least.

>>2466283
Guess it's time to see just how much I need, then.

>>2466285
SendCutSend's a great resource for getting brackets laser cut, by the way. The /3dpg/ answer is to print them, though (although a lot of plastics like PLA will experience creep when near heat sources).

>>2466288
Interesting, I never thought about getting stuff cut out.

>>2465789
Another picture of another print, it's hard to see because I don't have a macro lens but basically the entire outside wall at the start of this section prints as these tiny blobs, causing the wave pattern you can see.

>>2466310
I'm pretty sure it's not underextrusion, which is what I can find that looks similar on the web, because the rest of the print looks fine. Again shitty picture, but the upper layer is perfectly smooth, no ridges or gaps.

Printed this compost-thing here, its just a clamp basically.

>>2466366
Noice. Another piece of plastic saved from the trash.

Can you print flexible deck boxes like that?

>>2466419
I think you might, but only flat on the print bed.
https://boxmakeronline.com.au/component/jshopping/product/view/190/339?Itemid=0

do people torrent stuff off cults or am i being a cheap ass?

>>2466310
a wave-like pattern is often "ringing," where the printer is on a table that allows it to wobble back and forth. The vibrations feed back into the movement of the print head.

I've tried every solution for under extrusion I could find but my print quality hasnt improved. I think its something else but I cant figure out what. Do you guys know?

>>2466477
What material, temps, speeds, nozzle, printer, hotend, mods, etc?

>>2466419
If you can print the box flat on the bed and which is to be folded, then yes.

>>2466480
I have an ender 3 with a skr mini v3, cltouch, second z axis motor, Micro Swiss Direct Drive extruder with the all metal hotend.

>>2466486
Did you have this problem before the new hotend/direct drive upgrade and did you do those 'upgrades' at the same time?

>>2466514
no, I did these around 2 weeks ago and this issue started 1 week ago.

>>2466530
Have you retuned your PID settings since?

>>2466258
Don't forget that there's T-Slot and V-Slot. V-Slot is for V-Wheels, T-Slot is NOT.
McMaster and Tnutz sell T-Slot. Tnutz has good prices, but is almost exclusively Imperial.
If you want GOOD V-slot (not cheap, at all), I recommend Misumi, or for a little cheaper OpenBuildsPartStore is good.

Unless you're putting together a "serious" printer. If you're building a fresh Voron, buy from OpenBuilds, or splurge for Misumi. Otherwise, I don't see a reason not to just buy the cheapest shit you can find on Amazon.

>>2466532
I have never touched the PID settings and I didn't know anything about them until just now.

>>2466552
Couldn't you theoretically use a router with a chamfer bit to convert t to v?
I mean, it's aluminum, even HSS would suffice.

>>2466567
Sure, if the width of the slot is correct and there's enough meat to work with, but precision is pretty important here. Not something you would do by hand, better task for someone with a mill, at least in my opinion.

>>2466581
Well I guess there's makerspaces all over the country. Worth a try at least.

>>2466584
Awesome idea, plenty of 'em could help you do something like this for little or no cost. You're likely to find people there who are interested in the idea. $1.80/ft for 2020 from Tnutz vs $3.40 from McMaster, $3.26 from OpenBuilds, or $3.05 from Misumi + rapist shipping.

Goddamn Jesus fucking Chris I hate having to level my print bed.

>>2466476
I don't think that's it. The problem isn't that the print is wavy, it's that it prints only dots instead of actual lines at the beginning of a layer, which causes a wavy pattern over several layers.

What type of respirator should I wear for sanding PETG
Or do I even need one, would a cloth mask suffice?

>>2466676
PINDA sensor goes for 8 bucks. BLTouch for 40.
You have no excuse.
>>2466716
KN95 or FFP2 will do the trick, unless you actually burn the stuff and plan to breathe in the soot.
I use 3M 9320+ for all my DIY needs, they are large enough for my beard and comfy with the glasses. 2 to 3 bucks a piece.

update on 3d printed scale model progress.
remaining a lot of finitions to do and to paint the top of the walls in black..

>>2466464
you're being a dumb ass because cults is not a torrent site.

>>2466766
you are even a bigger dumbass, do people put STLs from cults on torrent sites?

>>2466766
having to register to donwload stl is dumb as hell, and if its uploaded only on cults I rather go waste time.

>>2466486
How sure are you that your printer is level and not wobbling while it's printing?

>>2466561
Did retuning your PID solve the issue?

>>2466777
Also, make sure your frame is topped off.

>>2466767
no

>>2466775
it's the only place I actually use my google account because it's one click

holy shit I'm retarded
I think I nearly caught my house on fire just now
double check your temperatures when you make a new filament profile lads

>>2466915
Do you not have a firmware hard ceiling temp on both heaters and a thermal fuse on your bed heater? Doesn't take that long, and the peace of mind is definitely worth it.

>>2466915
anon is out here trying to melt steel beams

>>2466924
I don't, didn't think I needed any of that, kinda thought prusa would have idiot-proofed my printer for me.
Shoulda bought a STRATASYS I guess.

>>2466934
Shoulda bought a Creality.

>>2466744
Consider gluing fabric where appropriate, like the bed, the sofa, leather for the office chair.
What are we looking at anyway? A puppet house for your children?

Is there anything better than epoxy at glueing 3d printed stuff together? Takes forewer to cure, but holds better than the print itself.

>>2466961
Fabric would make the... uh, cleanup phase a lot more difficult, if you know what I mean.

>>2466974
I might.

>>2466974
what the fuck man

I lent my shitty Ender to my workplace while I was moving and they liked it so much they want a printer for themselves
Any suggestions for a srsbsnss machine with good support and possibly multi tool capabilities

>when you finally take the time to properly tune your slicer, firmware and machine settings in depth and properly and are finally able to make very accurate and good looking parts for the first time since you bought the fuckin thing

>>2467008
i give it 5 days before something catastrophic happens if i ever get the damn thing properly tuned.
last time it was my cat dropping a box of parts onto the printbed, before that it was the heatbed wire wearing throguh, and before that it was the gantry belt snapping and taking out the z axis motor.

never trust a 3d printer anon, get the good parts you need out of it now before the problems return.

>controller fan starts making a horrible noise, bearing dead
>swap it out for a same size fan I have laying around
>healthy noise, but super crazy fuck loud
The fan I installed turned out to be a 12V model, the old one was 24V.
I don't mind killing the fan, but is it going to do damage to my control board by drawing too many amps or something?

>>2467017
Probably not but it won't live long. Like a few hours if that. If you have another 12v fan wire it in series.

>>2467009
sounds like you're just unlucky. my printer was shit only because I never tuned it right, only quick and dirty to get it good enough to make dumb shit like pots or statuettes and never had the patience to do it right to make usable parts and mechanicals.

Daily dose of:
>This (((new))) 3d printer is the definite ender 3 v2 killer!!!!!! by the way the company sent me the printer for free and I get to keep it, and if I say good things about it they'll continue to send me printers in the future so I will of course only say good things.

>>2467026
I already ordered a pair of 24V replacements from amazon, but it'll take a few days to get here. I was just wondering if I could run the printer in the meantime.
I guess I won't.

Check out this picture of a print i made with some rest filament, it's called Flexi-Rexi i think.
Printed on a quick setting on a Ender 2 in 2017 i think.

>>2467098
So many 7+ year old Flexi Rex floating around everywhere, popular little bastard even still.

This is now a Flexi Rexi thread.

>>2467109
which TPU filament do you like the most?

>>2467114
These dude are regular PLA. The model at Thingieverse is called Flexi Rexi because once printed you can "break" it's backbone and it becomes flexible.
I have yet to print something in TPU.

>>2465296
Newfag here, i run a small business and i want to resin print small (sub 3"x3") PEI (Ultem) parts with tolerances of .001" (.0254mm)

Is there anyway to go about doing this without paying 7k+ dollars? 3d printing might just be the for me to start prototyping and small scale production and compared to paying for an injection mold

Thanks diy

>>2467114
TPU filament is a shit-show because it's not all TPU. TPU, TPE, and all sorts of weird blends of TPU or TPE with other shit. They get sold as "Flex" or "TPU" or "TPE" or "TPU/TPE" it's all a bunch of convoluted bullshit because chinks aren't interested in what they're selling.
Look at shore hardness, higher is easier to print, lower is softer and more flexible.

NinjaFlex is 85A, it's TPU, great stuff. A little on the soft side, totally manageable with virtually any printer, but will be SLOW in a Bowden tube.

NinjaFlex Cheetah is 95A, way stiffer than regular old NinjaFlex but still soft and flexible. It's much easier to print, and can be printed much faster. 95A is also a typical hardness for lots of the TPU and TPE coming out of China. Overture, eSUN, Duramic, Polymaker, SainSmart, Hatchbox, and most of the bullshit disposable-name brands on Amazon.
>In my opinion, this is the best place to start,
get some Overture or Duramic, whichever is cheaper at the moment. Works well, prints much easier than the softer stuff, it's a cheap way to try out TPU and plenty good enough for all sorts of fun shit. All the TPU I keep "laying around" is cheap 95A hardness from China.

There is softer stuff, and harder stuff. 95A is a good limit for what's still "rubber-like." When you go harder than that, you get into some very capable wear-resistant and impact-resistant materials, but they're really not "soft" or "rubbery" the way you might think of a flexible filament.
Lower, like the 75A Chinchilla and Armadillo NinjaFlex, and the difficulty of printing starts to really stand out. Even with a good direct-drive setup, you'll be printing very slow, and it can be a challenge to print well.

>>2467129
Thanks a ton

>>2467122
Sorry, you don't.

>1
You can't resin print Ultem, it's just not an option, nobody does it, nobody can do it. Resin printing is weird, and specific, and in many ways limited. It's getting better every day, but there's nothing CLOSE to Ultem you can manage with SLA/MSLA printing.

>2
You can SLS print with Ultem powder. You'd be looking at an EOS machine like their P 810. The P 810 can use over $50,000 worth of Ultem powder in a single print. The machines start around $150k. I believe they have smaller offerings than the 810 now that may be more affordable, the 810 does have more build volume than you require.

>3
There are much more affordable options for Ultem, but the process is quite different. You'd be looking at a standard FDM/FFF printer, which won't remotely touch your tolerances. Oh, SLA and SLS printers don't either, 3D printers are not that precise. There are printers capable of incredible precision, but none that remotely fall into this category, they're mostly(!) metal printers. So we'll just ignore the tolerances for now. Intamsys FunMat HT, you may have seen it given your "7k+ dollars" comment, the FunMat HT runs about $7500.

Now don't get me wrong, you can print PEEK or Ultem for WAY CHEAPER! If you're in a remotely professional environment or want to do even very small scale production, then ignore the cheaper options.
You can find printers made specifically for working with PEEK, Ultem, and other high-temp shit starting around $1000.
Ignore that garbage. It's perfect for the home-gamer who wants to spend the time dicking with it, but they are NOT plug-and-play, they are NOT well built, well designed, or really all the functional out of the box, and they're made by trash-tier Chink companies that will provide NO support for the trash when it inevitably breaks and potentially burns your house down.
$150 home 3D printers is great! $1000 high-temp enclosed printers from the same people who make $150 Ender clones? Fuck no.

>>2466744
>Consider gluing fabric where appropriate,
gluing fabric on furniture is not easy, carpet is 1mm thick felt. will try to put fabric on sofa on next scale model.
>What are we looking at anyway?
1:20 scale model of a cabin on a sea going ship. Furnitures are based on real life mesurements and colours are close to reality.
real life carpet has geometric patern difficult to replicate with fabric markers so this part is not true to life.

>first print after mainboard replacement
>goes fine
>slight oozing, no biggie will fix later
>second print
>come back after it was supposed to be done
>the nozzle rammed trough the printing bed cover and was trying to ram itself trough the top left corner of the printer
>reset the damn thing
>go trough the settings
>printer starts rappidly beeping and again tries to ram itself into the top left corner
my ender 5 plus is possesed the fuck

>>2467178
So, like, you configured and compiled and installed new firmware right?

Right?

>>2467181
I did, that the thing I did a quick calibration cube and it worked like a charm. Ran the same program, same sd card, didnt even take it out
Only thing I changed was i heard some slight noise coming from one of the x axis guide wheel bearings and I adjusted the nut a little

>>2467136
Thank you for the effort post, i dont know enough about 3d printing but your post cleared up alot in regards to my options.

I talked to the funmat guys on the phone, they explained the realities of 3d printing tolerances. Honestly i could probably accept tolerances of up to 4 thousandths of an inch (.1mm) realistically but even then that seems to be an expensive propisition in ultem.

I may be able to use other thermoplastics like some higher grade nylons in conjunction with sla printing. Not sure where to start there though.

>>2467178
>>2467187
sounds like you're missing some end or closing condition. my printer goes back to home at the beginning and end of every print but if it shits the bed or I have to cancel for another reason the head returns to home but whatever commands go with it don't fire and the very next thing I do it does the freakout grind, even though that thing starts with "go back to home". I can "fix" this by power cycling or using the manual go home command on the printer interface, but if I don't it's malfunction city.

Try unplugging it after the next few prints. If that works try sending it home via the printer menu. If that works then I guess you fucked up son.

>>2467188
why not resin print and cast in Ultem or something similar? how do you know available resins won't fit the application?

>>2467194
Any idea how to introduce an end condition. The reason i was replacing the mainboard was i fried the one before by accident. I followed a tutorial to install an SKR v3 over the v2 i had before and the tutorial had the firmware included to install

>>2467198
Available resins may fit the application, but due to the nature of the part (sabots for high velocity impact lab testing btw), a material failure could be messy. These parts may be small but they need intense heat resistance and strength.

I initially wanted to use a known material like ultem, which has been used in even more intensive sabot applications then what i'll need. I might have to do some math on other materials though. Nylon seems 'good enough' as i mentioned.

>>2467198
Oh and on casting in ultem, thats a pretty neat idea but preferably the bearing surface of the sabot would be a very strong thermoplastic

I installed octo print on arch linux but I cant findout how to run it.

>>2467243
anon, we really don't care what *nix OS you use, this isn't /g/, just use one you're comfortable with.

>>2467243
>btw

>>2467243
it runs on a webserver, right? just figure out what port it's on an go to http://localhost:thatport

How can I into direct drive extruder on Ender 3?

What is superior, having a separate extruder above the hotend, like what comes stock on a Prusa i3, or an all-in-one extruder hotend combo, like a Biqu H2 or e3d Hemera?

>>2467350
Why? A properly setup Ender 3 doesn't need a DD extruder and adding that much weight onto the crossbar of a belt driven, single screw, roller ways printer is stupid.

>>2467351
To be fair, you really do need DD to print TPU. Is it better to just buy a printer built around a DD tool head? Probably, but sometimes you just gotta print some drone parts for the minimum amount of money.

Well, well, well... looks like my amazing idea in >>2462547 is actually already implemented in Cura. Has anyone messed around with this? All I know, is it's time to produce a mountain of scrap while I figure this shit out!

>>2467398
Yea, it's right there in the print quality defaults and has been for a while.

"Dynamic Quality"

>>2467243
sudo systemctl enable octoprint
sudo systemctl start octoprint
Then open localhost:5000 in a browser if you're using it from the same computer, or log onto your router to find out what IP the octo computer is at and use that IP:5000 from another computer on the same network.

the gyrating thing from my sweeping robot broke, so I printed a new one. Pretty tight fit, but I managed to get both pieces to stick together as well as pry them apart without them breaking. Currently thinking of a way to clamp the hairs in there (which I cut from a broom) without them flying off too easily. I tried screws, but it's too tiny to fit any I have lying around, and printing one just came with tiny tiny threads that didn't work. For now, I solved the issue with some adhesive.

I thing my ender bed just got warped, what do?

>>2467453
check to see if it got warped

>>2467452
I think I'd epoxy the bristles in packs, you know just a dot at the back, then clamp/clip them in place before cure. goal not being to glue to the part but to flatten something as a handle for the clump of bristles.

>>2465913
My company has several resin printers indoors near where I work. Are you telling me that they are poisoning me?

>>2465903
In general, resin printing requires a lot of effort though (washing, curing, removing supports). I print minis on my Creality Ender 3 Pro all the time. The are pretty accurate (0.12mm layers). The figures may require some cleaning up. Removing supports can be a pain.

>>2467570
Can you smell the resin? If not then there's some kind of ventilation setup and you need not worry.

>>2467572
After days of reading and researching, I ended up ordering an Ender 3 Pro since it was only 275 CAD with 4 spools.

Resin sound cool, but it sound like a Mininiature factory, and I dont care about details that much since most of my things will be Board game tokens and stuff like that.

I'll need to go to a Hardware shop and get some scrapper for the beds and some snippers for the supports.

>>2467599
Both are in the kit. All you need is Cura or Prusaslicer and some filament.

>>2467606
Cool, thanks ! Is the table the 3D printer is on important? Like a foldable table would be too woobly?

>>2467607
Put it on a sturdy table or directly on the floor. A wobbly table can cause some small imperfections in the print, but mostly what it will do is make a fuckton of noise.

>>2467607
FWIW, I have an Ender 3 on a plastic folding table like pic related, and it does just fine.

This creality cat was supposed to be printed in aluminium/pla filament but something went wrong. Eventually it returned to normal somewhat.
It's incredible strong, you would think it's easy to break, but that's not the case.

>>2467614
Probably loud as fuck?

>>2467616
>creality cat
Never been to east asia? Every single store has one of those in the window or behind the counter.

>>2467608
>a fuckton of noise
It's impressive what a difference in makes. Just adding some printed reinforcement to my cheap table cut down the noise considerably. Added a 1/2" thick piece of marble I found at a yard sale, and again amazing how much of a difference it made.

I want to find a retired slate pool table, remove the Rails/Bumpers/Liners and use it for a 3D printer. Stable AF, heavy, solid, level, most in the US use a single piece of 3/4" slate or multiple pieces of 1", but if you hunt old ones you can get lucky and find >1" thick single piece slate pool tables.

>>2467618
Maneki-neko, for any nerds who are interested.

>>2467619
Go to Lowes and get a concrete pavement slab. Costs almost nothing, but placing your printer on it will let you use a table made from toothpicks without issue.

>>2467619
I've seen folks split up the ones made of 2 or 3 pieces of 1" thick slate and make slate tabletops/workbenches, fuck I envy that. Bitch to move though.

Different filaments:
Bronze/PLA, treated with vinegar
Aluminium/PLA
PLA Orange
PLA Glow in the dark
PLA Blue
Copper/PLA, treated with vinegar

I tested Bronze and Copper to print a few "aged/patinaed" Roman statues for some guy, but have no pictures.

>>2467618
I know, but it's a ready to print file on Crealitys SD cards. And now, i never was in that region sadly.
>>2467619
>>2467623
Need to give this a try, there is some construction down the streat, maybe i can steal a concrete slab. Then again, that poor dude will have problems putting the place together when the work is done. Should i screw him over or not?

>>2467628
>maybe i can steal a concrete slab
Don't be a nigger. It costs 3 dollars.

>>2467631
$2/ea for 12x12 at Home Depot, 4 to make a 24x24 square that comfortable fits an Ender 3 or similar, that's $8.

You think this nigga has $8? Shiiiit

>>2467635
I'm not made of money, fatcats.

The box is print in place and opens like an iris when you move its bottom, a really cool print.
The firefly is awesome for children, they love this shit.

>>2467568

>>2467599
>get some scrapper for the beds
go to and arts and crafts store and get some palette knives for this. also get snippers there, better small craft choices usually.

>>2467616
underextrusion probably a slipping extruder since it came out at all. underextrusion with a clog turns into spaghett

>>2467619
I have a salvaged granite island counter top, heavy af. I just need to build a frame for it in the basement.

>>2467626
>slate tabletops/workbenches
good god the first time you dropped a hammer

>>2467640
poorfag, thief and a pedo. /3dpg/ is moving up in the world.

What size do you guys print your anime figures at? I want to print a bunch for my desk. I am going to try to print them to the same scale.

>>2467672
>What size do you guys print your anime figures at?
I don't but if I did the bigger one.

>>2467672
I'd go as small as possible, so I wouldn't be wasting as much plastic.

>>2467656
A mask? Why not?

>>2467781
You're a big guy

>>2467656
Because Anubis is sexy

>>2467836

thingiverse was hacked gg

>>2467906
It still works for me. Do you happen to live in a cucked nanny state?

>>2467906
It's been hacked like 5 times now. Is this time special somehow?

>>2467672
For FDM bigger is better.

how do you publish stuffs on thingiverse as a "work in progress"? can't see any option to flag it as such

>>2467914
Add Other Details> + Custom Selection >"[] This thing is a work in progress" under where it says "Tel us more"

I have an Ender-3 PRO at the moment, but it's a bit small. I plan on buying an Ender 5 PLUS in the future, is it a good choice or do you lads recommend something else?

(It's for cosplay props)

>>2467940
Voron 2.4 350mm, then you don't have to keep buying incrementally better printers. Search your heart, you know it to be true.

>>2467950
> $1700 USD in Norway
> mfw

>>2467925
Danke anon

>>2467940
Ender 5 Plus owner here, it replaces the super functional screen with a touchscreen that doesn't let you do fucking anything.
Good print volume and quality, but if you can get something without a touchscreen for the same price you should.

>>2467672
middle it's the best for detail while not dwarfing your tiny penior

>>2467781
the fucking mud caked spackle or whatever the fuck that it. it's like you're putting two big pieces of superglue together with bubblegum. seriously why the fuck would you do that?

>>2467906
oh noes did someone get free stls?

also thingiverse is not coming up in 3dcults anymore, what changed?

I’m using an ender 3 v2 with bl touch firmware ver1.1.2. Every time I try to adjust my z height up or down it crashes and drags on the bed destroying my tip. Anyone else have this issue?

>>2468022
yea, just use jyers custom build

>>2468024
>dude just leave your printer's config in the hands of random people on the internet
This meme needs to die.

>>2468048
have fun burning through a pack of nozzles then retard ;)

>>2468019
>also thingiverse is not coming up in 3dcults anymore, what changed?
They realized advertising a free model sharing platform was cutting into their profits.

>>2468048
By running Marlin at all your printer you're leaving your printer in the hands of random people on the internet.

Better go code your own firmware anon.

>>2468049
Lolwut? You must be an actual retard if you somehow ruin nozzles with your shitty firmware configuration.

>>2468048
Jyers firmware is a fucking joke. People need to learn to configure Marlin, is reading just so hard on the negroid brain?

>>2468073
>NO!!!!1111!!!! you have to make 3d printing your daytime job!!!!!!!!

>>2468075
It takes me 20 minutes to configure a fresh copy of Marlin, you must be retarded or something.

First non-test print on my Mono 4K
Resin is fucking incredible after only using PLA for 2 years. I've seen videos of peoples' prints but witnessing it in person feels totally different. I can make out the goddamn teeth on his vest zipper.

If I'm just starting out with modelling, would it be better to try Fusion360 or Blender?

>>2468133
What are you trying to model? Parts and mechanisms, F360. Other, Blender.

>>2468136
More artistic things: busts, statues, display pieces and the like.
Sounds like Blender's the way to go then, thank you.

>>2465296
Just got the cr10 S5! I'm gonna assemble it now and then start 3d printing!

>>2468149
Did you stitch your carpet together anon?

>>2468156
Yes

>>2467952
Formbot sells a great kit, especially for the money, otherwise keep an eye on the flea market section of the Voron Discord in case your neighbor is selling his for a lot less.

>>2468166
>the Voron Discord
Why are you gay?

>>2468165
Love the smell of /diy/ in the morning.

>>2468167
It's not my fault that someone put all the trannies in the same place as all the technical information.

Test run for the full thing really showing me I have a lot to learn about sanding and painting.

>>2468207
Youre gonna need about 3 more layers of filler primer than expected is my experience.
Oh and also let it properly dry between each of the layers.

>>2468209
That was 3 layers. It was starting to lose detail but I guess that wouldn't necessarily be the case at full scale. When you say properly dry, is that after the full curing time on the can (i.e. 24hrs)? Or the "dry to the touch" time (i.e. 30 mins)?

Also not sure if I should be sanding most of the filler primer off with each layer like this or if I should already be onto a finer grit and leaving more behind?

>>2468215
I don't know much about sanding primer, but it looks like you should move to a finer grit for the sandpaper.

>>2468215
>That was 3 layers.
Do 6 on the full scale one.
>When you say properly dry, is that after the full curing time on the can (i.e. 24hrs)?
Yes, unfortunately.

do some fine grit sanding between the last few layers too.

It's horrible, i know.

>>2468228
Damn that's a lot of downtime.

What about applying the paint itself, or the sealant? Do those benefit from full cures between coats?

Has anyone with dual extruders tried printing an opaque object inside a clear filament

>>2468228
Also is the last layer of primer, before paint, supposed to be sanded or not?

>>2468236
I just waited a couple of hours between those and it turned out good. Haven't tried waiting a full day between coats so can't say.

>>2468239
Sand it! Make it as smooth as you want the prop to actually be.

>>2468240
>Sand it! Make it as smooth as you want the prop to actually be.
And at this point, if I waited a day between each layer of filler primer, should I be seeing the underlying plastic colour at all (like in >>2468215)?

Appreciate the pointers anon

>>2468241
Filler primer takes forever. It's why I don't use it. I use bondo. Once and done.

>>2468241
You shouldnt see it at all.
But i'd fine sand it again.
And then put another layer of spray paint.
And sand again.
repeat until perfection

>>2468215
let it cure for the full time, don't start your primer on any grit lower than 120, ideally nothing below 240
rinse and wipe down the helmet between every sanding/respraying to get rid of any excess dust left
and when you get to the actual painting if you're using a spray on paint, always lean to less than you'd think you'd need over more, you can always do another light layer if there isn't enough but if there's too much it's going to make the surface ugly and you'll probably end up sanding it all off and starting again

>>2468273
also with this advice obviously that grit count is only for after you've gone over the helmet with low through high grits before priming it, 120 is an ideal starting grit for smoothing layer lines on the fresh print

why is my printer over extruding all of the sudden? I switched from PLA+ to PLA because of this and it's doing it again. It basically seems like it's swelling but this is the brim so it's got to be over extruding. Thoughts?

>>2468307
You tried a new nozzle?

>>2468307
have you checked your esteps?

>>2468307
did the pla+ have abrasives? do you use a brass nozzle?

>>2468073
>Marlin
You guys still use Marlin?

>>2468149
What a beast, show pic when it's thrown together.
I had a CR-30 back when they where the cool shit to have, i think even before the Ender 3 came out.
But this is ridonculous.
Anything special you want to print?

Went to a one day mini convention yesterday, set up an artist table with 3D printed jewelry I designed. Made about $50 profit on the day.

>Wasn't expecting to sell much of anything, so the day went better than expected.

>>2468022
I had that happen with my BLT, too. The closer my X-axis got to 220, my Z-axis would move up by about half a mm. Would ruin prints, and I finally said fuck it and went back to manually leveling my bed.

>Never been happier

>>2468533
A vascular horse cock in petg

TIL Voron=lizard people
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyPj4mire0k

>>2468550
Nice
Wonder if it's possible to build a portable ultralight printer that can be set up in a convention like this, then do a custom accessories commission and print it on the spot

>>2468557
Dude lost it bit by bit over the last years. Extremely paranoid.
He thinks Prusa has a shill army that comments in his videos.
I leave a "We will get you sooner than you think." or "Tick-Tock, your clock is ticking." whenever i think about it.

After slicing, Cura is implying shit won't print properly (whole piece is red without supports). Am I crazy to believe I should pay not heed?

>>2468635

>>2468641
isn't red just the color of outer walls/shells?

>>2468644
Is it though?

>>2468644
Right yes it is (has been months since I printed something so I' misremembering). And on the preview page it's overhangs?

>>2468557
Well, shit, I knew I smelled something bad around the Vorons but I couldn't exactly say what it was.
Dude is 100% right, the "community" is a cesspool and the printers are overcomplicated just for the sake of it

>>2468652
Yes.
That will be fine.

Is a small work room with a box fan pointing outside from a window enough ventilation for an SLA printer?
Assuming I sleep in the room next to it and don't want lung cancer.

>>2468662
only thing about vorons I don't like is how they're designed to look like toys. You're wrong about everything you've said.

>>2468696
How the fuck am I wrong?
The community is obsessed with IDing their printers and do not accept help with the printed parts unless it's printed by a registered Voron machine. At this point the high percentage of troons and lefties is just the cherry on top.
And the printers themselves really are overcomplicated just for the sake of it.
Explain to me why the 2.4 uses 4 points for tilting the bed when 3 are more than enough. Hell, they even did that themselves on the trident so they're no strangers to 3 point tilting.
Explain to me why the Vorons were inteded to use a belt driven extruder, made with printed gears no less.
Explain to me why the 2.4 drives leadscrews with belts instead of directly.
Explain to me why the V0 uses the obscure as fuck 1515 extrusions.

The only explanation is that these printers were designed by hyperoptimization fetishists that were stroking their cock through their pants while CADing their 100% minmaxed wet dream printers.

>>2468644
No, red means bad, always. Red is the bad color, all the walls are bad.

>>2468712
>The only explanation is that these printers were designed by hyperoptimization fetishists that were stroking their cock through their pants while CADing their 100% minmaxed wet dream printers.

Yes, that is exactly what Voron printers are, excess is kind of the point.

after weeks of tinkering with this piece of shit anycubic kobra and three replacement parts sent from them the printer finally "just works"

>>2468712
>Explain to me why the 2.4 uses 4 points for tilting the bed when 3 are more than enough. Hell, they even did that themselves on the trident so they're no strangers to 3 point tilting.
The 2.4 tilts the gantry, which is mounted to the vertical rails of the frame. Four points is just nice and symmetrical/compact with what's already there, plus it's stiffer with respect to a rapidly reciprocating tool head. The trident doesn't have to worry about this because the gantry is separate from the bed leveling mechanism.
>Explain to me why the Vorons were inteded to use a belt driven extruder, made with printed gears no less.
Not familiar with a belt driven extruder, almost everyone used direct drive, and if you meant belt driven motion system, then that uses metal pulleys and idlers.
>Explain to me why the 2.4 drives leadscrews with belts instead of directly.
>Again, no lead screws on the 2.4, but it uses belts because they are light, cheap, reliable, and don't need lube.
>Explain to me why the V0 uses the obscure as fuck 1515 extrusions.
Have you ever had someone tell you "wow, my dick would look HUGE in your hand!"? Well now you have, and it's kinda the same thing with 1515 extrusions on a tiny printer; it just scales, and it's fun.
Anyways, the best part of building a Voron is the satisfaction you get from angry people that got filtered before they even made it through the bill of materials. It's priceless, and it's like a gift that keeps on giving!

So, first Bench test for my first built 3D printer. Tried the Benchy and it came off at some point and started to skip some spots. I stopped it and then restarted a new one. Any idea what caused it? I tried to loosen the bed a little bit because I think it was too close?

>>2468731
>The 2.4 tilts the gantry
Literally impossible. It lacks the bearings to do so.
Here's a video of a self leveling printer that tilts the bed using 3 points:
https://youtu.be/aL7pEEHTTe4?t=14
You can see in the CAD model at 0:14 the kind of mechanical coupling needed to allow such movement.
Your heavily praised printer has no such contraption on the XY frame.

>Not familiar with a belt driven extruder
Worst shill I've ever seen. Here you go, retard-bro.
https://vorondesign.com/voron_m4
This was standard on the 2.4 until recently.

>1515 extrusions on a tiny printer; it just scales, and it's fun
Or it was an intentional move since at the time of the Voron 0's design 1515s were produced by a single company and were quite expensive. China jumped on 1515 production only once Vorons became popular.

Anyways, my thoughts on this are as follows
>anon you replied to is right
>(You)
>is a Voron tranny shill, likely paid by Prusa

The 250mm/s meme* arrived.
Now I need to create a SuperSlicer profile for it and see how fast it will actually go.
> * https://www.sunlu.com/products/terminator-3-fast-printing-fdm-3d-printer-up-to-250mm-s-32bit?_pos=1&_sid=1aeaea791&_ss=r&variant=40058198032470&sca_ref=1556928.aITudGkGfO&utm_campaign=AS&utm_medium=social&utm_term=SUNLU&utm_content=T3

So I'm at 32% after about 50ish minutes. Cura said that it would take 1:53. The screen says 2:02. Does that mean that there is still 2 hours to go? Or it might speed up at a later time and the time will decrease faster?

>>2468755
>Literally impossible. It lacks the bearings to do so.
2.4 has flex at the corners from semi-spherical parts that slide over each other. Some people put a little bit of grease on them, some people replace those parts with a spherical bearing. You should take a close look at the CAD files before you make claims like this.

>https://vorondesign.com/voron_m4
>This was standard on the 2.4 until recently.
Again, nobody uses that piece of shit. Everyone uses the Clockwork 1 and Clockwork 2 DD extruders, or they just use an adapter for a Bondtech LGX or something in that class.

>Or it was an intentional move since at the time of the Voron 0's design 1515s were produced by a single company and were quite expensive. China jumped on 1515 production only once Vorons became popular.
LOL, whatever keeps you up at night. HOW DARE THEY incorporate a unique design element into a weird printer, SOMEBODY COULD BE MAKING MONEY OFFA DAT!

>is a Voron tranny shill, likely paid by Prusa
I suspect that you are an IDF shill, and the Prusa conspiracy theory is just another psy-op like Flat Earth; used to discredit actual conspiracies.

>>2468787
Time to go is just an estimate based on elapsed time compared to either how much of the z height is left, or how much of the g-code file remains to be read. It's not an exact science (although it could be, if anyone cared enough), and Cura doesn't know exactly how long it will take either (because it's good enough).
Not sure how the Ender calculates it, because I skipped that part of class.

>>2468794
So the Benchy I ran kinda rotted in the middle for no real reason that I can think of. Top was great, bottom was great, middle look rotten.

I left my window open with the door closed could that have made the filament cool too fast ? It's currently 13 C outside right now.

>>2468879

>>2468879
Better view of the layers starting the fail.

>>2468554
Flared or unflared?

>>2468890
XL flared with a knot

>>2468882
>>2468883
Try printing it without supports, and see if that helps (this model doesn't need any support).
Looks like your extrusion temps got out of hand somehow, or your cooling was insufficient for some reason. But that's just with a cursory glance.

>>2468898
Would that be the reason why my wood colored PLA is stringing a lot? Or is it just a part of the PLA itself?

>>2468912
To prevent stringing, you can dry your filament (wood is especially hydroscopic), try printing at a lower temperature, and tune your retraction settings, in that order but probably all together.

>>2468912
One more thing: is it just "wood colored", or is there actual wood in the PLA? Regardless, should probably dry it anyways.

>>2468755
>Shilling for an organization that doesn't actually sell printers
1-800-COME-ON-NOW

>>2468916
It seem to be Wood infused? It's extremely brittle and 3/4 of my pawns died due to a lack of strenght. I probably need to up the infilling and lower the temp to 185.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07M9B11NC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

>>2468922
What temp are you printing at right now? If it's wood infused, then you are basically losing layer adhesion strength wherever there is a little piece of wood, so you might have to find a temp that strikes a balance between stringing (annoying) and poor layer adhesion (deadly, to your pawns).
Maybe try printing a bunch of little rectangles in horizontal and vertical orientations at different temperatures and see how that affects the strength.

>>2468924
I was printing at 200, gonna try 185 with 100% infill since it change like 1 min in time.

>>2468928
Try like 5 degrees at a time, 185 is pretty low. And definitely dry your filament first.

>>2468936
What do you mean by dry? Like in an oven or just in the air?

>>2468937
An oven works, just be careful. A food dehydrator is much better though, and there are even specialized filament dryers you can buy that are really just fancy food dehydrators. Check craigslist or FB marketplace for those last two, you can usually get them pretty cheap.
Basically, you have moisture content in yout filament, and you always want to minimize that when you are printing. I noticed a pretty bug difference in stringing and surface finish when I got a dryer.

>>2468893
Horses don't have knots you fucking retard. >:(

>>2468972
With a 3d printer, they can. There are no rules now.

>>2468972
Tell that to my draft horse fursona.

>>2469071
>>2469071
>>2469071
>>2469071
>>2469071
>>2469071

Furries killed this thread.

>>2468319
did and it helped, thx.

>>2468474
who knows, but haven't even printed a 1/4 of spool. might just be time because it's been awhile since I touched nozzle and I've been printing a lot lately.

>>2468754
did you wipe your new bed down? the skirt is coming up. wipe down or try glue stick. loosening makes no sense.