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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 16 KB, 236x314, 8a809b1ab8c747a19625d8dec36005ae.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2443160 No.2443160 [Reply] [Original]

What do I need to make this style of free-standing pull-up bar? Is it straightforward? Any tips?

Note: I'm a relative DIY novice - mended a few things here and there, helped out my uncles when converting the loft at my grandmother's house, not much experience other than that.

>> No.2443163

>>2443160
a couple of 4x4s, a 2x4, a saw (miter saw preferably, although even a simple hand saw will work) A length of pipe, and either a drill and a few screws or even a screwdriver, or just a hammer and a few nails. And a measuring tape.

Think about the operations required. You will need to take that wood and measure, cut, and then fasten it.

>> No.2443165

>>2443160
looks straightforward but if you don't have a mitre saw i'd buy one, precise angles cuts are extremely difficult to execute with a circular saw for a novice

>> No.2443168
File: 102 KB, 798x746, pipe flange.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2443168

>>2443160
I can't see how they did the actual pipe/bar in your tiny picture, but it appears they just bored a hole part way through the upright 4x4 and stuck it in.
If it were me I would use pic related instead, which might provide just a touch more stability to the whole affair

>> No.2443173

Looks like 4x4 posts, 2x4s, 3” screws, a metal bar, and a ton of braces. Tools would be a saw, drill, and a spade bit whatever diameter the rod is. Would highly recommend using bolts instead of screws, also a good sealant before assembling it. I would assume a $100-200 trip to home depot.
Instead of those braces you can just cut joints with a saw and chisel.
Instead of a upside-down T frame I wonder if an A frame would be stronger.

>> No.2443177
File: 78 KB, 1129x712, braces.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2443177

>>2443165
I guess it depends on how concerned about the appearance you are, but just slapping a couple braces on the side would obviate the need for angle cuts at all. Pic rel
It will be a more stable structure if you lengthen those diagonal braces so they run higher up on the upright member... this makes it approach more of an A-frame

>> No.2443184

>>2443160
Just use 4x4, 2x4, and power lags like Spax. The cheesy little metal brackets are a waste of time. The threaded pipe fittings are a good idea.

>> No.2443209

>>2443177
You don't want fasteners taking the load. If you cut the braces and attach them to the frame in line the wood takes the load. The fasteners are just holding the wood in place. In your picture, the load is being transferred from the 4x4 through the fasteners and then into the diagonal supports. That is an inferior design. You will need to use more robust fasteners, like lag bolts, instead of just wood screws. You will also have to be concerned with the the wood failing where the bolt holes are placed when it is under load.

Besides, you can cut 45s into 4x4s using a had saw and a simple miter box easily and cheaply. No reason not to. Its a better design.

>> No.2443234

>>2443209
bruh, the load the braces will take is going to be so minimal compared to the force of the 4x4 directly down into the base. it doesn't matter at all.

>> No.2443279

>>2443234
True, but is OP doing those rowing pullups? Also OP needs to post fat ass to determine if we need to step up from 4x4s.

>> No.2443475

>>2443165
>>2443163
You don't need precise angles for that. You're not making fancy furniture.

>> No.2443480

You don't need those faggy metal brackets. That only to hold the pieces together. A toe nail screw will do the same thing. You better off getting a doorway bar

>> No.2443794

Any ideas for how you could incorporate a chest dip bar into this frame?

>> No.2443807

>>2443794
You could send black pipe out at around 4' and right angle it to the base.

>> No.2443817
File: 98 KB, 1080x1436, Screenshot_20220808-192300_Keep Notes.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2443817

>>2443807
Like this? (The red line)