/diy/ - Do It Yourself

calibrated esteps. and z-hop. now its clicking and banging and grinding.

>>2430100
and its using ABL.

how to i find the mest to tell me how warped the bed is? im not installing some horseshit like octoprint or kilpper.

>>2430100
>It's grinding and sliping.
>First layer basically seethrough.
You need to either raise your z offset or use a smaller first layer height.
Alternatively, you can also tighten the tension in your extruder if you have the provision to.

>>2430100
nozzle way too close to the bed

idea
use a home box fan to blow air onto whole 3d printer to help with overhangs?

>>2430123
You'd be sacrificing part integrity. If you're looking for quality fdm is not really the technology.

>>2430127
>part integrity
how

>>2430129
Layers don't fuse together as strongly.
Obsessing over overhangs is one of those things that people will come up with shitloads of absurd toolheads on thingiverse and compete on who can put the biggest most fucktarded fans from all angles when it's really not necessary.

>>2430100
*BLOOP BWOOP*
>PULL UP
*BWOOP BWOOP*
>TERRAIN
*BLOOP BWOOP*
>PULL UP
*BWOOP BWOOP*
>TERRAIN
*BLOOP BWOOP*
>PULL UP
*BWOOP BWOOP*
>TERRAIN

>>2430100
nozzle too close to the bed, if you're using a brass nozzle still you almost definitely need to replace it at this point because you've worn it down grinding it against the bed like that

>>2430159
Nah, it's probably alright. PEI isn't that hard, even compared to brass.

>>2430157
kek
>>2430119
>>2430112
>>2430159
mama i tried,

>>2430169
im going to reflash the OEM firmware once again.

>>2430165
I've had cheaper brass nozzles start clogging just from a feeler gauge pressing under them while leveling, but if it's extruding cleanly probably don't need to worry about it>>2430169
have you cleaned the bed recently? and what temp do you have the bed heated to, and what filament

>>2430178
washed it with water and ISO, Bed is 60 C,
this is the filament. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07VCPK9KC

>>2430178
You know how you aren't supposed to run abrasives thought a brass nozzle? Well, if you run a few meters of your CF-Glowie you can probably deburr the shitty drill pressed opening a bit, but this is more art than science what I am suggesting.

>>2430169
lower your nozzle close to the bed
take a piece of paper and move it between the nozzle and bed
lower the nozzle step by step until you can't easily remove and insert the paper between the nozzle and the bed
congratz, you just found the perfect z = 0

>>2430095
Anyone know of some good deals on decent quality pla + / petg? Need something to print some figures for a friend, but don't want to use my nice stuff, especially if they'll just end up painted.

>>2430196
MatterHackers Build is my go to price/performance PLA, but I'm a snob that doesn't trust Amazon filaments.

Do I need a filament roller for my ender 3? I got a 1kg spool on and the filament line gets pretty tight. Will this effect my prints at all?

>>2430196
for petg polymaker's decent and on the cheaper side
overture is serviceable but you have to check every spool before loading it to make sure it's not tangled which is a fucking hassle

>>2430095
Looking for a neat 10/22 stock. Any suggestions. Kinda want a print similar to this.
https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/MI-Ruger-1022-Take-Down-Chassis-p/mi-1022-tdc.htm

>>2430207
>overture is serviceable but you have to check every spool before loading it to make sure it's not tangled which is a fucking hassle
Had this issue with some ABS. cut like 50g of filament out of frustration for a persistent tangle.
Bought some generic CF PETG and it's rolled absolutely perfect

>>2430095
Been printing for free at my local library, they use Lulzbots and the quality depends on whether the engineering guy is printing it or if it’s one of the artsy blue hairs, I’m pretty good at making new designs, have a few proprietary eBike parts / things that I haven’t listed on thingiverse and could probably sell, the one I did list has a few prints and comments from other people…thinking I can sell those and some common stuff on Etsy as a side gig and looking at buying a printer now.

Under $1000 USD, looking at the CR-10, i3 and FlashForge. I like the larger printing area of the CR-10. Are there many differences in print quality? Or does that all depend on learning how to do settings properly?

>>2430247
For that price point, also check out the Anker printer (forget the name), the Bamboo X-1, or a Prusa. You probably don't have to worry much about having an especially large print bed unless you are going to be printing a lot of cosplay stuff. Most of my prints need less than 100mm, had more than enough room on a 200mm printer for just about anything, but I have a 300mm printer now because I liked the idea of being able to print a helmet in one piece if I wanted.

Speaking of nozzle wear, how often should a hardened steel nozzle need to be replaced when printing something like PETG
The ones I buy don't ever last more than a few hundred hours of prints, which can be sometimes twice a month needing a replacement

Where do you guys buy guide rods and bearings and such? I just ordered no-name 8mm rods from Amazon, then realized I could get name-brand Thomson shafting from MSC for less money. Obviously I'm doing it wrong.

I just fucked something up and not sure what. I tried printing a calibration cube and the printer just kept trying to go in the x and y before I hit the power switch. I just upgraded the firmware and extruder. It homes fine and centers fine. Any ideas what went wrong?

>>2430288
Are x or y inverted?

>>2430266
misumi for high end stuff. Amazon or aliexpress for chinese junk for something cheap

>>2430290
How can I check? I printed a test model the other day and it didn't do this. Could it be older cura settings? I also changed the hotend and added direct drive

>>2430295
Now that I think of it. I pressed the manual leveling function on the jyers build of marlin. Did I have to do something after? I tried it out of curiosity

>>2430205
No

>>2430297
Nevermind I fixed it. I think it was the printhead settings on cura

They still haven't said how this nigga died. It was definitely the vaccine.

>>2430196
>MatterHackers
I have order two rolls of petg from them in the past, the first roll was a tangled mess halfway through, and the second roll was perfect, until again, about halfway through, wherein the plastic was fused to itself all the way throughout the rest of the spool. I know, because I tried unspooling, then resorted to cutting... Will never buy from them again.
>>2430207
>for petg polymaker's decent
Yeah, I've used there stuff in the past, and its good quality/cost. But i was hoping someone would know of something really cheap, like $16 - $18 a roll cheap, that doesn't print like ass, or snap while feeding...
>overture
Yeah, they're okay. I might end up going with one of their cheaper rolls of pla, but I'd rather try and get some pla+ at some point at a lower cost, because all of my pla prints fall apart way too easily.
>Bought some generic CF PETG and it's rolled absolutely perfect
What brand? might snag some if it isn't too pricey-.

>>2430385
We don't care about e-celebs here, newfag.

>>2430385
Auto homo-erotic asphyxiation.

>>2430169
Now split the difference anon. Possibly also raise your nozzle temp by 5C for the first layer.

>>2430443
I care, in so much as I beleive his death put the obxidian nozzles in permanent limbo.

>>2430247
>CR-10
Don't do i3 larger that 220*220mm on an i3 style printer if you can avoid it. If you can't, at least make sure it has dual lead screws, like a CR10S and has a 24V bed. You can live with a 12V bed on a CR10s if you don't mind starting preheating ~30mins prior to starting printing if your bed temp is 100C.
If you're inclined towards more engineering filaments like nylon/abs/pc you're going to have to reserve some budget for a better hotend, insulated enclosure, and some quality of life things like auto bed leveling, raspberry pi, and a better bed surface. Prices vary by region but I was able to get my CR10S (12V bed unfortunately) for around $300 and spent maybe another $200 over the span of several years upgrading it (bl touch, pei bed, enclosure, various hotends and various extruders). Most of it was just bumbling around trying to figure out what works and what doesn't.
If you do want to go with the CR10 series, look up the cost of the dual z screw unit and add to it the cost of the following: PEI magnetic sheet, dragonfly bms and some kind of auto bed leveling.

>>2430535
Retard-bro, there's only 2 types of nozzles that are relevant: brass and hardened steel. Anything else is just for printer-peen measuring.

To recap for you
>/3dpg/ don't care about the e-celeb
>/3dpg/ don't care about the aerospace grade unobtainium nozzles or the virgin blood diamond nozzles.

>>2430547
>brass and hardened steel
You mean plated copper and hardened steel.

>>2430547
>the virgin blood diamond nozzles
>vs the chad HARDENED STEEL

>>2430556
No, I meant brass. Because that's what everyone uses. It's cheap, easy to obtain and easy to produce. All of these are very important for a consumer product. They're also not fussy about handling, I can use the cheapest stamped sheet chinesium wrench and it will work just fine.
Your Gucci plated nozzles need to be babied with the socket wrench otherwise the plating will chip away.

>>2430547
>virgin blood diamond nozzles.
Diamondback already beat them.
A single 0.6mm from them will last a lifetime.

>>2430103
ABL still needs to be adjusted. The Z offset is used to determine what distance the ABL will adjust the z-axis to

>>2430569
Thermal transfer of copper nozzles and the coating is invaluable for speed and quality. It makes a difference, and if you're not crashing nozzles you should be good with just a 0.4mm and a 0.6mm.

>>2430385
I thought he necked himself.

>>2430593
You just adjust your temperature to match the thermal conductivity of your heat block/nozzle to get the melt chamber temperature you want. No need to go wanking off about it.

>>2430593
>It makes a difference
The only time nozzle material would hold you back would be in industrial printers, the ones that start at a price of 5 digits.
For the consumer printers, even the expensive ones, a quality brass nozzle is more than enough.
Another thing to keep in mind is that for melting filament it's not the material of the nozzle that matters. Both brass and copper are very good. The problem is the plastic itself which has shit thermal conductivity so the core of the filament heats up slowly. The only ways to solve this is to use a longer melt zone (like the volcano and supervolcano) or go for fancy internal geometry like bondtech's cht nozzles.
So yes, for the most part plated copper does fuck all. Maybe if you have some super fancy filament that needs 300+C you would benefit from one, but for anything non abrasive under that temperature brass is king and always will be.

Are resin printers OK in warm temperatures? I wanted to put my Elegoo Jupiter in the garage but it's somewhere around 80 degrees Fahrenheit in there.

AHHH@#%R@%# fucking PETG. Calicats (thank you) went well on multiple printers, so I kicked off sundial out of PETG on several printers and they all snapped the filament or popped off bowdens when I woke up. Extruder was skipping like crazy at the PLA Z-Offset, so I raised them all up at least 0.1 but I guess it went fucktarded at some point, about when the fan kicked in. Reprinting calicats and they're fine.


Just get the Sunlu S8 Pro instead of the CR10. It was $250 two weeks ago, prices are higher now I guess because of the amazon day sales. It's basically a CR10 but already has the PEI bed, dual Z's, filament runout and an LED in the hotend to light up the piece.

Adding BLTouch is a pain in the ass tho since you need like a 2m cable, same with CR10. If anyone can recommend a way to do the wiring it'd be appreciated. I don't want to spend $40 in slapping two ribbon cables together.

Dunno if diff thermistor or diff heatblock but I do get underextrusion unlike the Enders if I try to do ludicrous speed. I haven't tried bumping the temps tho.

>>2430590

I got the bed more level, and the nozzle a bit further from the bed but is this clunking now the ABL bed mesh thing trying to keep everything printing even?

>>2430729
most printer resins work between 50-85 degrees iirc

I want to print polypropylene (no real reason just want to) but bed adhesion is bitchy
I'm using packing tape right now but I hate removing the gunk from my bed afterwards
so was thinking, would it be possible to create some kind of fiberglass/pp sheet just for printing pp?
would that even help or would the print just fuse to the sheet?
I've never worked with gf in any kind of manufacturing sense so I have no idea where to start
I'm assuming it's not as easy as melting a bunch of pp in a pan and mixing it with fibers
suggestions? is this retarded or am I a genius?

What temps you guys using for PLA? I've found 210 with a 70 bed to be the best.

I've been trying to tune this direct drive for a minute now and can't seem to get rid of stringing with regular PLA. Esteps are perfect and retraction tower has very little fuzzing. But when I print a temp tower or all in one test there is a lot of stringing and those diagonal boogers.

>>2430796
Retraction towers are useless. Just go with 3x whatever retraction distance that tells you to use. Also if you're the same anon using 210 on normal PLA then your temps are probably too high.

Would pic related and some 4" ducting be all I need to vent out fumes from a resin printer? I already have an air evacuation tunnel made https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5414695

Any decent alternatives to the Raspberry Pi to run Octoprint?
Can't find a RPi anywhere, and there's dozens of other SBCs available - just want one I can flash Octoprint onto and run with no issues.

Already posted inthe prev thread before I noticed this one here.

>>2430837
if you have an old android device laying around: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74xdib_-X38
personally I'm using a crusty chinkshit tablet until I can order a pi zero 2

>>2430837
>>2430885
Did some searching and apparently the way to go now is the ODroid N1. About half the cost fo a current scalped RPI and way more powerful/useful.

>>2430821
Where are you venting to, outside?

>>2430918
Yeah. I have a window in my workshop that I'll stick the ducting out of. I plan on getting (Or making) something like pic related to seal it.

>>2430944
Okay, then yes that fan should work. I would care more about the noise levels of the thing. 4 inches is the equivalent of a 100mm computer case fan. So I would prefer something bigger and slower, even if you need some fan shroud.

What's the next upgrade from a prusa? Looking for something commercial

I'm trying to get my Ender 3 to print as accurately as it can. Right now a 10x10x10mm test cube is coming out a little over sized x and y. Where can I compensate for this?

Total noob, was finally able to get my bed leveled and such, first completed benchy came out OK on the front, but the back has some bumps and a seam running down the top. Any ideas what this might be??

>>2430978
For context, here's the front. I noticed some stringing, but I think that might be from too high a temp? Could that also be causing the bumps on the back??

>>2430978
seam is normal and unavoidable, most slicers let you position it so you can stick it somewhere you wont notice it so much
yours is definitely more exaggerated though, could be possibly over-extruding

>>2430169
Change slicer first layer line thickness to 180%, helps a lot

>>2430978
Increase your retraction.
How much are you retracting right now?

>>2430989
I didn't realize that, I didn't mess with the settings on Cura too much beyond what I saw in a CHEP video.

>>2430993
What a good question.... I have no idea lol, whatever the default on Cura is, I suppose. When I get back to my PC, I'll give it a look. Any suggestions as to what a good setting might be??

>>2431022
Under "travel" check "enable retraction" and "retract at layer change" which defaults to off, I think.

>>2431022
you'll want to measure out filament and see what gets extruded
here's a good video walking you through the process https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PChOqIBNwOs
and here's a site to do the math after you calibrate it
https://www.th3dstudio.com/estep-calculator/
you're going to need a cable that can reach from your computer to your printer if it doesn't already have wireless functionality, as well as a ruler with metric on it for marking off your filament
generally mark at 100mm and 150mm and tell it to extrude 100mm, then you check the difference, if the line for the 100 is right at the extruder then you're fine, if it's not at the extruder you need to increase steps, in your case it will probably be through the extruder and you will need to decrease steps

>>2431032
"Calibrate your E-steps" is a meme.

>>2431034
kill yourself

>>2431037
Sorry to ruin your fun.

>>2431034
>>2431037
No matter how different each board is, they're all kinda the same lmao

>>2431030
>>2431032
Thanks for the info Champs, I'll try all this tomorrow

>>2431048
I want to leverage some inadequate racial and homophobic insults your way, but frankly, it's late and I'm tired.
That out of the way, do check your retraction, and do check your e-steps on your extruder, it looks to me like you're over-extruding ever so slightly though that could also just be the stringing. You don't have to go full on autism checking your e-steps right now, just checking that extruding 100mm does in fact extrude 100mm. Try the print again with anywhere between 2mm(direct drive printer) or 4mm(bowden printer).
Considering how many problems newbies are having with Cura I'm getting to a point where it should be re-considered whether it's worth recommending.

>>2430969
Is yours totally stock? I have mine down to >0.1mm of accuracy.

I have the creality metal extruder, glass print bed, some chink all metal hotend, and capricorn tubing. I've leveled my bed with a 1mm feeler gauge. Bed temp is 65, nozzle is 210. Retraction distance and speed at 1.5mm and 35mm respectively. Printer also kept in a small closet.

I'm pretty happy with these settings, might tone down the nozzle a touch.

>>2430969
It's a mostly stock except for a Bond Tech extruder and mag base. It's super consistent but 5% oversized on x and 6% oversized on y. If I could just input those percentages somewhere to compensate for commanded vs actual position it'd be a sub 0.1mm machine.

>>2431097
It's a mostly stock except for a Bond Tech extruder and mag base. It's super consistent but 5% oversized on x and 6% oversized on y. If I could just input those percentages somewhere to compensate for commanded vs actual position it'd be a sub 0.1mm machine.

>>2431128
What slicer are you using? Not oversized on Z at all?

5-6% is really bad, are you sure it's that far off? Check your belts, I keep mine pretty taut. If you've got no issues on Z I'm gonna guess it's the belt tension. Being consistently that bad is worth remarking.

>>2430821
Its overkill, honestly. Like the other anon said, you could go with a bigger, slower fan, or try and find one rated for being quiet. You could even try some Noctua/other quiet pc fan with a 3d printed adapter, although it might have as much suction, and you might need an adapter to plug it into the wall.

>>2430776
>pp sheet just for printing pp
It will stick to it and fuck it up after the first print. If it doesn't, you'll get shit adhesion and warping of the part.
>fiber
"it werks", and I can't say more than that. Give it a go; it's kind of shitty but it's doable.

>>2430157
*RETARD*
>RETARD
*RETARD*
>RETARD
*RETARD*
>RETARD
*RETARD*
>RETARD

>Amazon fucking lost the parts I ordered
welp guess my ender3 will remain stock forever...

>>2431392
> leave seller bad review
> small chance they pay you to remove it
Rejoice for having extorted a third world chinamen

>>2431078
>I want to leverage some inadequate racial and homophobic insults your way, but frankly, it's late and I'm tired.
Hope you were able to adequately recharge, brother. Thanks for the info. Just got back from the wagekek. I'll check all this rn.

>>2431497
AFRICAN AMERICAN GENTLEMAN

anybody have experience with that creality spider hot end? I'm sick of all the heatcreep I'm getting with this shitty clone hotend I've got

>>2431587
Dude just get a V6. Stop bothering with random ass chinese crap made by a CAD trainee.
The V6 is tried, tested, reliable and so damn simple even the chinks can produce with no performance losses.

>>2431597
the amount of work that it would take to interface that br*tish slag with my printer is so far beyond the value it would provide, stop shilling that shit here

>>2431602
I'm not here to shill, I'm just trying to get one thing trough that thick skull of yours. Anything all metal that's a drop in replacement to the stock creality hotend is a piece of shit that will forever be plagued by heat creep. There's simply not enough physical space to make the fins bigger and dissipate more heat. Simple as.
And to claim it's hard to install a V6 to any chinese printer is an outright lie, others have already done the work of designing brackets for whatever printer you may have. You just have to print it and install it.

>>2431587
There are pretty decent quality v6 and microswiss clones out there now that are basically drop in replacements for your creality stock hotend.
I swapped to one of the ~30$ microswiss clones and it prints ABS beautifully.

>>2431602
The V6 hotend is like the Toyota Corolla of hotends, but go right ahead you prefer the Hyundai Accent of hotends.

>>2431587
What printhead are you using?
Is your hotend cooling fan running independently from your part fan/electronics fan?
What makes you think you're having issues with heat creep? Heatcreep hasn't been a considerable issue since the Mk8 hotend days that had some thick heatbreaks and minimal heatsinking.

>>2431624
Is there any legitimate need or reason to upgrade from the stock hot end of an ender 3 if you're only printing in PLA and PLA+? Are there other things I could change about the machine setup that'd be a better option to consider first?

>>2431654
No. Just leave everything alone, don't even remove the nozzle. Literally only need to fuck with it if you're trying to print Nylon and even then I'd just say fuckit and keep using it until it breaks.

>>2431654
>Is there any legitimate need or reason to upgrade from the stock hot end of an ender 3
Yes. Although the problem is also fixed with a captive ptfe mod. This page explains the issue regarding the ptfe not sealing around the nozzle:
https://www.crealityexperts.com/creality-hot-end-repair-guide

Halp. Basic bitch Ender 3 (several). Playing with PETG but it likes to skip the extruder, especially when doing the 10% infill regardless of layer height. Tried 230-260C. 8mm retraction, 45mm/s speed. Trying to make more of those sundials.

Calicats and other functional prints come out perfect. Tried varying layer height thinking it was temp but no change. Using 3 different brands of PETG on 3 diff printers, they all do the same thing.

>>2431655
I change the nozzle every now and again because I'm only running an ender 3 pro without any bed leveling assistance so it'll occasionally gain runout in the z axis and dig a nozzle into the glass bed, plus I don't exactly trust PLA+ additives to be non destructive on brass nozzles.

>>2431659
I've printed that mod before but never exactly felt confident in installing it, will I be okay relying on PLA+ in that mod? It's sitting in the bag with my spare tubing but I've become confident in the traditional way of doing things that I feel that sorta mod is a bit more failure prone than something more simple like a duct replacement or something to that effect.

>>2431661
>8mm retraction
you're dragging a molten slug of petg back into your heatbreak. Keep it 4mm or under. Maybe 6mm if you've got a long crealifty stock ptfe tube from your extruder to your hotend.
If you still feel like you need more retraction, consider checking the set screws on your extruder's drive gear. One of the set screws should be on the flat. They should both be tight, just keep in mind that it's a small thread into brass, think finger tight with a small wrench. And for the love of all fuck make sure you use the right hex/allen key. The idea is to keep the brass wheel from having any play relative to the motor shaft.
>>2431663
If it hasn't been an issue so be it. It tends to develop further along as a printer starts to rack up several hours and the ptfe starts to slip out of the pneumatic fittings/wear out. I do not know how common it really is, i just know it to be common enough that it's happened to a friend on both his enders(he might've fucked with them and caused the issue himself) and my cr10(the ptfe wore out and backed out). Problem is when it does develop, cleaning the glob is a proper pain and often takes out the heater cartridge, thermistor, and set screws making the more viable solution timewise to just replace the entire hotend+pid tune.
>printed parts.
I've only heard of the one using a drilled out washer. I wouldn't use anything below abs/PC for this function.

>>2431672
So far I've only had to replace the regular tube and cut a short section off my capricorn once or twice, may have done it earlier than necessary as I've only got 5kg of PLA through it so far but I come from a machining background so management and checking my machines if I see shit that concerns me I just fix it when it's a consumable especially.

>>2431676
Fair enough. Pic is after an unknown number of weeks(possibly months) of intermittent printing on a cr10s. I think this was with the more aggressive fittings capricorn uses too. Worth noting that changing out the hotend simply changes the failure mode and the time to failure, not prevent the failure altogether. When this fails it will be unmolten filament atop the hotend, and in order for it to fail it has to break off completely. For the failure seen with the stock hotend, all it needs is to back out enough that the ptfe no longer seals against the nozzle.
>machining background
Was it you that was obsessing over a 100~200 micron bow on your bed a few threads/months ago?
Do you ever wonder why the fuck nozzles aren't NPT?

>>2430749
clunking?

>>2431692
>>2431692
Not me, I accept that this machine is cheap as fuck and is not at all comparable to a milling machine or even a cheap metal lathe. My bed has a small amount of warping that was ameliorated by a glass bed. What comes with running a cheap machine like this is less peace of mind and a lot more gathering knowledge and understanding failure modes and taking proactive steps to ensure they don't occur. I run octoprint and have a shitty little camera watching my prints and managed to catch the only scary incident where my filament ran out and the machine kept running for about 30 minutes beyond that which spooked me, time to get a filament runout sensor soon I suppose.

>>2431652
currently using a microswiss, swapped off to it because the stock ender hot end's grub screws were completely stripped out of the box so I couldn't replace the heater cartridge when that eventually wore down, immediately after swapping to the microswiss and even after lowering the print temp by nearly 20c I have failures on any print that takes over two days, always at different heights but always clear the extruder can't push more filament through with all the bite marks in the stuff in the bowden, swapped the tube and replaced nozzle and blowtorched the whole hot end to ensure it wasn't a clog

>>2431835
Did you retune your PID settings? Pretty much required if you switch to an all metal hotend. I'd also change the retraction settings. 1.5mm/35mm is a good place to start.

>>2431853
done several PID calibrations since getting it yeah, and that's about what my retraction's set to already

>>2431855
Well I've never done a print that took longer than 24hrs, but if your printer is not in a temperature controlled enclosure there are huge fluctuations that happen in that kinda time period.

Maybe print with a draft shield?

>>2431872
I've got it in an insulated enclosure and printing the same brand of PETG I was on my stock hotend with no issue, only had these problems begin to arise with the all metal microswiss

>>2431873
Do you have a photo of what the failure looks like?

I want to 3d print various moulds for cheese. Basically hot viscous cheese is poured in, mould is clamped, and you wait til it hardens.
Ive found no food friendly fillament, so Im thinking some varnish. Ive found only some food friendly sillicons, do you know of any good food varnishes (inert enough for 100C)?

>>2431877

>>2431835
>currently using a microswiss
>microswiss.
I had forgotten that company exists. Why microswiss when dragonfly bms exists?
anyway, have a look at this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4332316

>>2431887
No filament is going to be truly food safe, partly because of where it is made and partly because of the process through which it is made into other things.
Polycarbonate might be your best bet if you don't mind growing gigantic cancerous tits.
What about using a printed part to make casted molds out of some food safe casting resin? you might have better luck there emailing a few manufacturers

>>2431917
Cheese growing tits ? I see potential on tranny market.
Wadabout polyurethanes ?

>>2431912
because I'd never heard of them before :^)
I might try one of their hotends out if this current attempt at printing even cooler with thermal paste on the heatbreak and nozzle threads fails

>>2431889
Well if you're saying this prints totally fine before you upgraded, then with everything else eliminated I'd say maybe consider a better cooling fan. All metal hotends are just gonna have more heat transferring to the filament so you should do everything you can to confine it to the block.

>>2431887
The gaps between layers are going to be a breeding ground for bacteria and mold, assuming you even found a filament that is food safe. I suppose if you had a mold that was simple enough and you had some impermeable material to line it with that is disposable and food safe.

>>2431761
I took the abl off and its completely stopped. it was the abl doing a lot of work despite a perfect manual level.

>>2431887
Why not just 3d print the cheese directly into the shape you want? Are you too much of a pussy to sell a $100 loaf of cheese that only weighs six ounces or something?

>>2431887
Use whatever you have on hand to make a mold then cast your cheese mold into that with food grade silicone. It's the safest way.

Have old bike, could not find pulley of the right size, so I just said, fuck it and made ir myself.

>>2431947
Try the duct first.
Microswiss's obsession with stainless has bitten in the ass when trying to make a replacement for the Mk8 creality hotend, it's too thick and isn't properly spaced off the tool carriage to where it gets good airflow over the heatsink.

>>2431930
The thing about coatings on plastics is that they flake off as the plastic flexes.

>>2431917
>>2432000
This. Bonus points if the cheeseform you print is out of a cheese coloured filament.

>>2431957
What clunking?

>>2432043
mmh looks yummy

>mfw I am in hell
>ender3 pro
>basic pla, forgot brand
>cura default settings (20% infill, with some supports)

I’m guessing my x axis belt needs to be tightened? Could it be the motor?
I printed a z axis test to check and was able to print a rectangle through the full build height with only a little wobble near the top.

>>2432083
hehe penis support

>>2432083
turn the model 90º and print. certainly looks like an x-axis slip or about 4 in a row. it's impressive that the head recovered. could also be corrupt gcode.

>>2432083
looks pretty cool like that desu
actual irl vaporwave vibes

>>2432083
Sell it on etsy.
Claim it's intentional for a retrofuturistic aesthetic.

>>2431887
>>2431917
>>2431950
>>2432041
This comes up every now and then, might be worth adding to the OP?

>Why aren't 3D prints food safe? What if I use a food safe plastic?
Creases between layers store bacteria and are impossible to sanitize
Nozzles leave small amounts of metal in your print
Filaments aren't manufactured on food safe equipment
Food safe coatings flake off as the print flexes

>What should I do instead?
Print a mold and cast it in silicone/resin

>>2432107
yeah was gonna throw it in blender and do this on purpose later. would like to get a clean one first.
>>2432099
it actually needed a support for both the cock and the balls.(You could probably get away with one but I didn't want to risk him having a fucked up cock)

I talked with a friend and he thinks the x belt is probably slipping, That's my next test.

>>2432083
Steppers lose steps when their current is too low or the driver is overheating.
If you were printing with reduced cooling then keep in mind the board cooling fan always runs at the same speed as the part cooling fan.

>>2432142
>board cooling fan always runs at the same speed as the part cooling fan
This is a Crealty meme? I thought they fixed that?

>>2432129
>nozzles leave a small amount of metal in your print.
This is insignificant, there are stainless steel nozzles.
The process of printing isn't.
There's also the lack of transparency in listing plastic additives and such with most filaments.
Don't think it comes up often enough to justify further adding to the bloating OP, maybe just a line letting people to ask before printing food items.

>>2432147
>This is insignificant, there are stainless steel nozzles.
I forgot that brass has cadmium/lead in it. I'd still call it insignificant, but not something you'd want to consume if at all avoidable.

>>2432146
No, the version 4 boards still have that issue.
The fix is to cut the connector off the board fan and screw it into the hotend fan slot so it runs 100% at all times.

Does anyone know of a software to make generative designs (topology optimizations) for FREE? Ideally I’d prefer to run it locally instead of on a cloud system (seems expensive/wasteful to pay to use a cloud system when my PC should be able to do the calculations itself.)

Topology optimizations look super cool and I’d like to add them to my designs but I’m not sure which tool to use for it. If you don’t know of a free one, do you have a recommendation on a paid one?

>>2432147
>>2432148
>stainless steel nozzles
>brass has cadmium/lead in it
I intentionally left out too many specifics because of
>bloating OP
I figure if anyone isn't dissuaded enough they would ask anyways
Could also add additives to the list, but just one line telling people to ask first would be a good idea too

Can someone help me fix my terrible z seams on a stock ender 3 v2? I've tried turning up my retraction distance and speed to 10mm and 50mm/s respectively. Coasting is on in Cura and esteps calibrated. I'm just using basic bitch PLA.

It almost seems to be puking out filament when starting a new layer so I wonder if the retraction prime setting will help

>>2432149
Altair Inspire is an incredibly intuitive and powerful software. However it is only "free" on certain sites. Or maybe there is a free trial/student version.

>>2432184
Benchies look decent too except for the blobbing

>>2432188
That is...odd. I've only ever seen that with poorly tuned pressure advance and even then it was done intentionally to accentuate seams for pictures.

I can't think of anything more c.ucked than owning an Ultimaker printer.

>>2432083
I hope you didn't throw that model away. Looks awesome like that, maybe just clear off a little bit of the spaghetti, and leave the supports.

>>2432083
Reminds me of this for some reason.

what the fuck man

>>2432220
Check your extruder arm.

>>2432220
Looks like you are about one order of magnitude low for your extrusion multiplier.

>>2432225
This is the built in "first layer calibration."

>>2432223
What do you mean?

>>2432226
Alternatively just check that you're not clogged by manually pushing filament through a clean nozzle.

>>2432227
>through a clean nozzle.
Through a hot nozzle*

>>2432227
I did and when it start extruding it "loops" a bit, but then extrudes normally.

>>2432231
does the built in calibration use a hot nozzle?

>>2432232
Yeah, 200C

>>2432234
get up to 220C, make sure your PTFE tube is pressed all the way into the hotend.
Does your extruder motor move when it extrudes?

>>2432236
I don't think so about the motor running. And I'm pretty sure I don't have a PTFE tube. Should I get one?

>>2432240
...I'm operating out of a few pictures, could you post an assumption of your extruder and your hotend?

>>2432244
jesus fucking christ.
You know what? It's nearing the end of the workday here and i'm too drunk to be of any real help.

>>2430978
>>2430980
No way you ever calibrated your esteps.

>>2432244
An assumption?

>>2432062
it was clunking from the steppers really bad. took the abl off and its gone.

>>2432261
...how on earth did you manage that? ABL should not be affecting your stepper motors.

>>2432083
this is art

>>2432263
I have no idea, i looked and other people had the same stuff. its faster now too.

>>2432184
>>2432188
I don't understand this. I've never had seams. I have an Ender 3 and I'm guessing that prusaslicer just hides the seams by moving them between layers. But when I look at my final print I can't see any blemishes.

>>2431853
will post a pic in a bit, ran some towers from 1.5mm retraction distance all the way up to currently trying at 5mm (which I've read is too far for a microswiss but I'm still getting ridiculous buildup at the travel points even at 4.5mm distance), not sure if I'll even attempt an actual print at 5mm since that seems like it would just invite more clogs but

>>2432285
forgive the scuffed presentation I didn't have anything better with enough contrast to show the results
it seems to be nearly there at 5mm for distance but I'm hesitant to try an actual print at that distance with a microswiss hotend when all I'm seeing is that'll clog even faster

>>2432328
esteps?

>>2432328
esteps or popping sounds with the petg?

>>2432330
>>2432331
esteps calibrated and recalibrated, PETG shouldn't be hydrated since this spool's under a week old and enclosed in my dry apartment, but nah don't hear any pops when it heats and extrudes

>>2432332
What extruder are you using?
Also I have mine set on 6mm, but I just have a cheap Ender 3V2 style hotend.

>>2432335
using the creality aluminum extruder, and I know that with ptfe lined extruders you usually retract between 5-8mm, I'm just paranoid that retracting that far with an all metal hotend that's already giving me heat creep or clogs on long prints

>>2432083

>>2432336
Yeah, you are being dumb. Wait until an actual problem happens, because they do. Don't worry yourself over this mm stuff.

>>2432338
yeah I suppose at this point I do just need to try printing it again with these new retraction settings, just not big on potentially wasting another half a spool for a test kek

>>2432083
>>2432132
looking at so much 2d and 3d porn fucked me up on just how small a regular flaccid penis is, im used to dragon men with minimum footlong cocks

>>2432083
Skipped steps on the x axis is rather odd on an i3 style printer. Check your belt tension/toothed pulley set screw.

>>2432005
Very nice. What plastic did you use?

does nylon PCTPE give off toxic fumes while printing

Can someone check this gcode for me? The tool head just keeps going in small circles.

>>2432454
Is it a 6 followed by a whole bunch of circles?

>>2432337
Kek, fukkin saved

>>2432104
Now that you mention it, how would the head print correctly, way off axis like that?

>>2432454
Kikes seething

How long do print heads last and what kind of maintenance do you do on them?

Building an air filter for printer room. Is there any reason to get a higher rated filter for plastic particulates? Planning on using a merv 14 filter and a 3/8in sheet of activated carbon as a pre filter.

>>2432524
You going to be sanding in it?

>>2432533
Not really. Just have a bunch of printers in a single room and worried about build up in the air. I've left the window open for ventilation but its summer and I doubt my A/C enjoys the extra work.

>>2432544
Printers are said to put out particles > 100 microns. Your filter should get 99% of those. If anything maybe scale down the merv rating and increase the number of filters for more volume.

Or just shut the AC ducts to that room and put an exhaust fan in the window. Why even cool it?

>>2432545
>Printers are said to put out particles > 100 microns.
Are you fucking with me? 100 microns? .1mm? My african american printers give off particulates in the sub .3 micron range. HEPA filters are potentially useless that's why I asked.

>>2432548
I don't really know what you're upset about. If you want a source for the 100 micron claim it's here: https://www.fastcompany.com/90269252/3d-printed-particles-can-embed-themselves-in-your-lungs-forever

Merv 15 removes over 95% of 3.0 – 10.0 microns particles. Since those are an order of magnitude smaller than what 3d printers put out (100 microns) a Merv 15 filter is probably going to be in the 98% to 99% efficiency range for 3d printer microplastics which is kind of the opposite of worthless.

What's the longest any of you usually let a print run for?
I'm honestly too lazy to care about losing 15 dollars if a big print fails at the 80-95% area so I never split models, a lot of my prints go for 60-80 hours

>>2432563
Impressive. I usually only go 10-12 hours max, but I have a fast printer and don't like to leave it unattended.

>>2432563
30 hours is my max so far.

>>2432580
Got pics of the final abomination?

>>2432378
don't you have your own penis to compare?
also that's kinda small, or rather when doing these sculptures they believed putting a big dick on it was unbecoming so they were always on the small side as a "it's there because we don't have the notion of barbie dolls"
granted normal dicks aren't a footlong either but still

>>2432563
Anything larger I'll opt for a 0.6mm nozzle, less perimeters, and 0.4mm layer heights.

>>2430266
Igus.

Budget: 500€
Looking for an i3 in the same range.

As ebay auctions seem to run ramp up prices even on used Prusas, is pic related bear from scratch my best bet? I got a student mk3s on hand, so printed parts are not a problem. Will print just PLA and PETG, no ABS needed.

>>2432715
The bear kits are nice, especially if you can get it from the get-go. Is it a fysetc i3 bear clone?
>500 MerkelDollars
yesus.

>>2432511
Here is the underside of the overhang that should have failed. looks like it struggled for a layer or two but once it got its general shape it could resume.
>>2432337
lmao
>>2432142
This does seem to start happening about 6 hours into a print. not at a consistent layer though. The Fan seems to be running fine though.

It seems to happen around the thickest part of prints and then stop when they thin out. Thinner z axis tests print well but start to get a little wobbly near the top but I think that's due to the table it's on.

>>2430095
Anyone have any luck electroplating metal infused filaments? I’ve tried making a carbon slurry “paint” with acetone and brushing my ABS parts but it didn’t really give the results I expected.

>>2432741
No but that's an intriguing thought. You should be able to electroplate anything with a resistance under that of the solution albeit slowly. If you can get your part's resistance low enough you could probably plate it with copper then nickle and chrome if that's the end goal. Probably need a thick copper and nickle layer to be rigid enough to support chrome.

>>2432726
It looks like it only took a layer, two at most to recover. That's rather impressive, part failure aside.

>>2432752
>You should be able to electroplate anything
I was thinking this too, but from what I've seen of conductive filaments... you'd need several cathodes going to your part to get a decent plate.

>>2432758
>>2432752
How do they plate flowers? Spray them down with something that is adhesive and conductive?

>>2432719
>The bear kits are nice, especially if you can get it from the get-go. Is it a fysetc i3 bear clone?
Good to know, but no. So far my plan is to assemble a BOM and see how far i can jew my way out.
>MerkelDollars
Please. It's hard enough as it is, no need to rub it in.

>got an ender 5 plus last year
>followed some ozzie's build guide on it
>constantly having to find workarounds to keep hotend wires from dipping down because they would set off the X stop or even shift the stop and prevent it from getting triggered
>watching a vid about a different hot end
>they have their hot end wires outside and zipped to the cover for the x axis stepper
god I'm a fucking retard how did I never think of this

>>2432786
>So far my plan is to assemble a BOM
Self sourcing isn't as economical as you think unless you've already got an account with and local access to an industrial supplier.
Self sourcing will have you raped with minimum order quantities/values and shipping from multiple sources.

>>2432715
Just get an ender 3 kit it costs like $200

>>2432715
>no ABS needed.
You say that now, but the styrene will be calling to you later.

How the fuck do I rewire a stepper motor. I'm so fucking retarded I can't get this to work. I've identified both pairs on both motors. But all I get is chatter and not proper movement. Is there something with this extension cable? There are 6 pins but 4 wires on this half size stepper motor

>>2430438
Purchased some Pla + and some Sparkly Pla.
with the discount I received, its around 17$ per roll. I should probably swap my plated copper over to a brass for when I print with the sparkly pla, shouldn't I? Don't usually print with filament that was additional additives like that.

>>2432957
I bought some Jayo PETG but it's kind of Garbo even with food dehydrator. Ok for $10 per kg tho.

My printer bed keep grinding when it moves the bed out at the end of a print. Is it the motor or firmware?

>>2433099
Does it get the bed all the way out?

>>2432715
Prusa mini

>>2433127
Yeah it just goes further out than it should I think. Is it possible to add some ending gcode in octoprint to adjust it?

>>2433207
In your slicer there is an option for the different axes' max travel. In Cura you find them under manage printers->machine settings->printer settings->X/Y/Z Your Y travel is probably set too high.

>>2433215
Thanks! Gonna check it out in a bit.

Second person to do this today. I don't want to live on this planet anymore.

>>2430169
PLA?

>>2432403
Filalab PLA. No idea how long it hold. Still, it's lot better than this broken piece. Tested bike, about 10 miles ride, works nice.

>>2432726
>>2432083
Fixed the issue, there were a couple things wrong with the printer, one being the bed was lose, and the z axis motor had come lose as well. I also tightened the belt on the x axis. now I need to get the supports right on that arm.

>>2432339
goddammit

>>2433389
>>2433376
>>2433227

F
It's a bad day for /3dpg/...

>>2433376
I should print one of these, mainly because I like twinks

>>2433359
I was thinking that's the perfect job for Nylon, if you can stand to print it. It would be great if this lasts, though, since peeps love to talk about how PLA can't go outside.

Hey /diy/, didnt see much in the pastebin, but how far along are resin printers for stuff like figma like articulated figure printing?

Saw this guy producing his own Boudica figure on twitter and more, he's shown off 3d model files so he's doing that himself, am i mistaken in thinking he's using a resin printer?

https://twitter.com/benti1983/status/1542066815156617216?t=iPHvRIyPujUActDqo_UtXA&s=19


Tl;dr how do i print waifu action figures?

>>2433448
Yah, looks like resin. They'res a 3d printing figure making general over on /tg/ that is right up your alley, so to speak.
>>>/tg/85370638

>>2433389
is that an ender 5 plus?
got one coming in the mail soon, it better not have the same issues

>>2433400
bad couple of weeks for me, finally had this thing printing decently and all of a sudden had these heat creep/clog issues show up again
>>2433496
it is yeah, I can't speak to their general quality since this is my only experience with one, when it works it's amazing for large prints but I've had to do so much troubleshooting for mine over the last 20 months

>>2433442
Nylon is no go for me, stock Ender 3 with v2 board and crtouch. I tried, but my God, just fuck it. No enclosure, no mods for head. As for PLA, use it for bike parts for a long time. Only thing, don't leave it bake on a sun. But for ride it, I see no problem. All sort's of fittings and so on. I'm actually make functional parts from PLA and see no problem with it. You must understand material you working with, it's strong and weak properties. As far as it goes, if part not going get heated to much, or get some shattering impacts, PLA pretty strong and versatile. As for UV light and biodegradation, if part for bike hold tow years or more, I consider it as acceptable service time. Especially if it's some expendable parts like those pulleys, whom worn out anyway. For PLA it's bad if you keep things outside all the time, on a sun, and especially on heat. Also you should consider HOW you make this part, how layers go and so on. In short, I solely use ABS and bit more frequent use PETG for parts I intent leaving outside and especially in a car. By the way, ABS as it goes, also pretty shitty for UV light. For everything else, PLA works quite nice. Also it's cheap. And no problems printing it. And I can afford to make new part without hassle. I do it anyway, some things I redesign few times and have lot's of versions of same part. Used PLA only for prototyping in the past, but after realizing it's properties, and knowing what I should expect from it, I use it almost everywhere and it works fine. Not perfect, maybe won't last hundred years, but hey, do I need it last forever?

>>2430095
3D printing plastics are only good for prototyping during the design process. Plus making toys - for out-of-body experiences only! So why are amateur makers going out of their way to remelt in salt or buying expensive carbon filaments and all the other things?
Making something to last for production will always be better done with injection molding. Don't waste your time trying to solve problems you weren't meant to have. Layered manufacturing is quick, easy and cheap but never meant to replace solid mold.

>>2433502
>ABS as it goes, also pretty shitty for UV light
ABS is just terrible for everything. I've got like five rolls I'm going to end up throwing out. I've had some success with Nylon for gears, etc. If PLA is working for an application there's no reason to change, it sure is easy to deal with.
>>2433517
>I'm here for an argument
This isn't arguments, this is Abuse. Arguments are down the hall.

>>2433517
Ok

>>2433522
>This isn't arguments, this is Abuse
It's words of truth, set by the physical world. Layers of plastic will never EVER compare to injection molding.

Take your finished 3D printed prototype, cover it in 'form release', cast it in silicone, remove the prototype from the mold, spray 'form release' in the negative mold and fill with whatever material (epoxy? melted PLA?) for your finished thing!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsYmQz19c_g

Don't skip this last step of ensuring quality in your making of things!

>>2433405
You should use the "Twinkle Black" in >>2432957, and also make sure to keep your degeneracy away from children!

>>2433522
I'll trade you five rolls of PLA for your ABS.

>>2433376
Fixed it, just added extra thick support for the left arm. This is much smaller but i think i should be able to scale it up without issue.

>>2433487
Thanks anon! Much appreciated, i probably shoulda checked /tg/ to start, seems kinda obvious now.
Cheers

>>2433496
>>2433498
I should add that this issue only pops up on prints that go on for more than 35 hours for me, and I don't know what you'll be printing but that's with me printing on a metal hotend with PETG at 235c
if you're going to be printing smaller shorter prints and on a cooler filament like PLA you probably wont run into my issues
I would recommend swapping from the glass bed to a magnetic PEI sheet if you have any adhesion issues, that was my biggest recurring problem for a long time and as soon as I swapped to a flexible PEI sheet they disappeared, I think those glass beds with such a large surface are just very prone to warping because both glass plates I bought ended up having issues with center leveling no matter how much I'd chase the numbers on the corner points

>>2432149
Solid Edge community edition

>>2433517
>Making something to last for production will always be better done with injection molding.
I built my printer for $120. THat won't even buy the HEATING ELEMENT for an injection molding rig.
And with what machine, pray tell, do you expect us to machine the molds? Hmm? Can't even print those.
>"But you can cast them from aluminum!"
Yeah nah mate.
I'll stick to PA6CF on a modified Ender and milling whatever I absolutely have to out of 6061 on a hotrodded $150 3018 router.

>>2430095
>keep squishing my Camels with my thick ass
>need a cigarette case
>don't want to buy one
>have a DS with a defective power management IC
>idea.jpg
well anons?

>>2433797
Why not just replace the IC and buy a $5 cig case on amazon?

>>2433797
The DS library wasn’t that cancerous

>>2433800
because it's a bronze XL
>>2433801
$20 for a pack of cigarettes is a better deal than anything on the eshop

>>2433389
Okay so a question in regards to trying to diagnose this
On each print where it's failed like this the filament in the extruder is having trouble moving through, with bigger and bigger bites/squishing until it eventually can't get through even to the beginning of the bowden
Could this be the case and does that sound like the extruder's stepper failing during long prints/the arm or spring wearing down already
Or is that more likely just another symptom of it clogging in the hot end itself
I legitimately can't tell if it's heat creep or not because the problem arose before and was solved with ceramic tape but came back with that tape still in place and persisted after switching to a fresh piece
I can't tell if it's clogging easily because when I kill the print and let it cool it will start flowing like normal on reheating to either disassemble and clean or to try a different print again

>>2433813
Oh, and it's done this across multiple brands of PETG so I don't think it's a low quality spool issue

When did this become /ender/ general?

>>2433821
When we kicked out the ones that didn't have chink printers for being insufferable snobs.

calicat is so kawaii <3

Niggas acting like this shits all hard. Replace heatbreak for a few dollars, print flawless Nylon on first try.

>>2433822

>buy a 3D printer, it will let you make whatever you want, man
>buy Smooth-On products, they let you make whatever you want man
>look at this website with a million STLs on it, you can make whatever you want, man

i think i'm having an intensely Freudian bad dream here

Where can I find this?

>>2433830
do not try to print a dildo anon
print a mold

>>2433833
Fuck I dunno.

Here have a custom pepe made just for [You]

https://files.catbox.moe/1ogtwf.7z

dammit. What's the name of one of those Ender fan fang things that uses the stock fans. I broke and superglued mine back together but need to print another.

>>2433822
I really would be nice to have a a separate general for non-Ender printers so I wouldn't have to think about poor people when I'm trying to do something enjoyable.

>>2433855
Ender fang oem ?

I need to recreate some parts for a brake master cylinder on my project car, i cant source the parts but theyre very easy to create in CAD

Between PETG and PP (Polypropylene) which is the best for tensile strength and basically being completely immune to immersion in brake fluid? I cant find any reliable information about resistance to DOT3 brake fluid ever being tested against these plastics

>>2433448
resin should be perfect, minimal treatment, plenty of models. I think /toy/ might have some connoisseurs but it's a slow board.

>>2433502
>tfw I can print nylon on my monoprice mini delta

>>2433539
5th time the charm. and it's not extra support it's that long thin pole was prone to wobble shitting up the print, I mean most likely. Print it again with tree support.

>>2433797
quit smoking you disgusting fucking cunt

>>2433851
whatever happened to the guy making the benis pepe adventuring minis?

>>2430095
Anybody know what the most squishy filament is? Ninjaflex isn't squishy enough.

>>2433998
no filament is a squishy as you want anon.

>>2434002
How do I get a more squishy material? Do I print a mold and pour silicone into it? What type of silicone is the most squishy one?

>>2434019
uncured silicone in a latex balloon is the most squishy. why don't you tell us what you're trying to do instead of just randomly asking about irrelevant "mosts"?

What parameters do I need to change when going from a 0.4mm to 0.5mm nozzle in superslicer?

>>2434044
For me, it's a DIY Fleshlight; the ultimate way to tell society that you don't need them.

>>2434087
print a mold, cast in silicone

>>2434019
>>2434044
'silicone' isn't a specific material, it is a catch all name applied to a class of related polymers.
Silicone can range from a slippery, lubricating liquid such as that found in silicone ass lube, to a squishy rubber, to a tough hard plastic-like material depending on how it's formulated.

If you want a really squishy one, look at low hardness 2 part silicones sold for special effects purposes (smooth-on brand and others)
You can choose different ones based on their hardness, and if you look at videos of the different types, you will see just how squishy they can get. Anything under about 10A shore hardness is too squishy/floppy to make a good dragon dildo.

https://youtu.be/psKY2N3SB8k?t=42

>>2434044
The actual request helper here. I wanna print massive tits. I have a Creality 10 S5 that has 500 mm cubed print volume that I want to use to print very large squishy breasts with. I've upgraded it with a direct extruder and I have an enclosure, I can print ninjaflex without any problems but the material isn't squishy enough.

>>2434019
>>2434044
>>2434098
Best would be to make a higher durometer core and encase it in super soft shell. Easy on the body, but rigid enough to push though any "shyness"

>>2434106
>. I wanna print massive tits
Cast a pair out of two part tittycone and a printed mold. I don't think you understand how slowly and prone to failure flexible filaments are, and it gets worse as you go softer. I would never attempt something that takes more than 15m of flexible filament without that one specialty extruder.

>>2430169
glue

>>2434126
Exactly. Vapor smoothed ABS would be ideal for a titty mold, so un-enclosed printers are officially for homosexuals.

Hi /3dpg/ this is my first print using a mod for my ender 3 to use direct drive (extrusion).
also made a retraccion test before and after the modification, in case someone wants to see.

>>2434278
Now get some TPU filament to take advantage of that!

>>2434284
i am two steps beyond you annon.
i order it alredy, in a couple of days i will print an octopus to test the quality of the filament.

>>2434287
TPU is a little tricky, so don't get discouraged if it doesn't look that great when you first try printing it. Drying usually helps, keep your velocity to like 30-40 mm/s, and it doesn't bridge that well so don't be afraid to use plenty of supports. TPU is my favorite filament as far as usability goes, with only ABS being a close second.

>>2430095
Does anyone have any recommendations for priting Gameboy shells? I am thinking of printing it out of pla, but i am not sire if that is good long term.

Any recommendations for a gamboypocket/color shells

>>2434313
ABS would probably be ideal, with PETG being the best option if you have an open printer.

amidst a sea of buttplugs I finally found something on thingiverse you can stick your weiner in that's not a chastity cage.

Also horse boob

>>2434320
sorry anon, but i am a foot guy, and now with this adquisition i will finally explore m fetish to the fullest.

>>2434340
Rate me/10

>>2434313
pla will be fine, abs would be stronger, but likely warp with the size, PETG would look cool, and would be less likely to to crack, But PLA would work fine.

>>2434349
ugly, but you look like the step we need to return to monkey and leave taxes and anxiety forever, Would you voluntarily submit to a bi-vivisection?

>>2434349
that looks useful.

>>2434351
What about when he leaves it in a hot car, or in a backpack out in the sun? I pretty much view PLA as an "indoors only" kind of plastic, but if you live far north then it's not really an issue either way.

>>2434313
Lmao just buy a shell on ebay. Chink factories churn them out and they cost like $10 with buttons and membranes. Made of ABS and injection molded. Way better quality than you will ever get with a printer.

Satan wants you

Some scale furnitures prints for architecture model.

>>2434551

>>2434552

>>2434551
>>2434552
nice. the chair and couch look extra cushy.

>>2434561
Yes, it was done with the fuzzy skin setting, not sure yet how it will look once painted.
I hope it will replace the need for surface texture modification on the fabric covered furnitures models..
This is a bathroom tiled floor.

>>2433991
Can and want is big difference. For what it is, it's not worth all that hassle.

>>2434106
I believe traditional mold is the way to go, I just don't see doing massive flexible printing and having it go well at all. For one they won't be smooth. That said the internal structure "fill" patterns are designed for rigid material. Still the wall count and internal structure will affect how squishy your print is. Lifesize and bigger tits, even as a mold, are going to require a large format printer and you might as well just invest into actual silicone doll manufacturing equipment focusing on the boobs. I'm sure the many fags who have doll threads on /b/ could steer you in the right direction.

>>2434349
ngl that's fucking amazing. throwback genes or something?

>>2434349
>>2434627
return to monke

>>2434636

>>2433797
Pure class. Add a lighter to it somehow.

>>2434317
>>2434351
I will look at the petg option, since i am running an open ender 3. I still have mixed feelings on abs from the thingomatic era

>>2434493
True, but i found some neat beskar/pokedex ones an i want to prototype it for giggles. In all honesty i will end up doing yours

>>2434087
I thought that TPE is the softest
you can consult /jp/ ona thread and/or guide for softness

>>2434551
>>2434552
>>2434554
What printer, material, and nozzle size? Did you assemble it after printing or is it one piece?

>>2434313
Try pla. I've got a pla case on my phone and it's been fine.

>>2434865
Printer: Prusa i3 MK3S+
Nozzle size: 0.4mm
The models are assembled after printing with super glue.
The fuzzy skin does not allow easy assembly without post processing so some areas on the fuzzy models are changed to regular skin with box modifiers in prusa slicer.

>>2434812
>/jp/ ona
I didn't know that existed but of course it does.

>>2434106
>massive tits
Look into Smooth On's Eco Flex series. 00-20 might be a little soft, 00-35 might be what you want. they sell trial packs for relatively cheap.

My ender 3 skips steps like crazy and shits out underextruded lines when using brightly colored filaments, but suddenly turns normal when i feed it black/white/grey filaments, anyone know why the fuck is that?
The filaments are all the same type and brand btw (esun pla+)

>>2434106
>massive tits
Look into Smooth On's Eco Flex series. 00-20 might be a little soft, 00-35 might be what you want. they sell trial packs for relatively cheap.

Retrowave!

>>2433830
>i think i'm having an intensely Freudian bad dream here
lol nigga go buy a real dildo to give yourself hemorrhoids with, also try therapy

>>2435140
Is there a package date for the colored stuff? Could be older, could be the dye, could be you're a faggot

>>2435140
Did you turn off the raysism mode in the control menu?
The ender3 colour sensor only accepts certain filaments to ensure quality prints

Halp with Nylon. All metal clogs if I retract more than 4mm, so I've been running about 220C for Nylon or else the stringing and blobbing gets bad. The overhangs look like ass so I've been running fan but then the layer adhesion is absolute trash. Cura seems retarded so i've just been running fan on 50% the entire time which even that doesnt' seem enough.

I can literally just crush it in my hand and have 100 identical layers split off. Should I be focusing on trying to reduce the fan to just the overhangs (superslicer does this but it doesn't have the arachne engine I want to use), or do I need to bump up the temps to get layer adhesion?

>>2435108
>>>/jp/ona
Well, that was a waste of a monday morning at work.

>>2435275
Really dry nylon doesn't string or ooze for me *at all*, even with a volcano. But that shit is a sponge, and even if you don't have enough moisture to spit or foam, just a trace is enough to steam up and pressurize the melt chamber, which will cause stringing and dribbling.
I have to store it in tupperware and leave it in the dryer overnight to keep it dry.

>>2435275
>do I need to bump up the temps to get layer adhesion?
And Yes, Nylon wants it hot. I've been running 260 and I've heard of folks extruding at 300 to get extra strength.

>midway through long print

>>2432715
Save a few more hundred urinalbucks and get the mk3s+, euros are worthless so it's a good deal.

>>2435302
this is why I don't buy overture anymore

>>2435302
>Time to purchase some more carbon credits, Goy, you have reached your allowed filament for the week!

>>2435302
Do you not know how to undo a knot without pulling the filament out of the extruder? You literally just push the loop over the side of the spool, which unironically is what got you into this mess to begin with.

Is the Mars 3 pro worth it or should I go elsewhere?
I'm reluctant to go for anycubic because I bought two of their fdm printers and they were shit.

Any of you guys get physically sick from 3D printing? I started 3D printing with pla and pla+ and the smell gave me a headache and some strange congestion. I had to stop just to air out ny room. I have an air purifier now but I have to get an appropriate filter specifically for chemical smells. Are those repurposed garden tents worth it when it comes to scent and microparticle exposure?

>>2435362
anon you're literally speedrunning your cancer development
don't print PLA if your room has bad ventilation, stick it in another room or build a sealed enclosure with AC hosing leading outside

>>2435414
I'll look into that. I don't really have any other rooms to put the printer in other than my bed room so ventilation is something I have to work on. I'd rather not deal with plastic health shit down the line.
Or I could just drop the hobby for now. Either Way, I'm holding off from printing anything else.

>>2435362
>buys cheap ass PLA from china
>releases COVID-21 directly into his lungs
gg, anon

>>2433608
>I should add that this issue only pops up on prints that go on for more than 35 hours for me, and I don't know what you'll be printing but that's with me printing on a metal hotend with PETG at 235c
Are you using the stock cooling setup for your printer? I have a similar setup, and since I've switched to a different mount + cooler (Hero Me) I've had less problems with clogging. Taking and moving the back of the heatsink away from the mounting plate seems to be doing wonders for heat dissipation for me.

>>2433448
Any good, publicly available models for anime figures? I kind of want to print something with a set of nice fat tits sometime soon.

>>2434287
Make sure your cooling is off/ on very, very low. My first time printing TPU, I couldn't figure out why all of my prints were ever so slightly warped. Turns out, the airflow from the cooling fan, plus the elasticity of tpu, is easy enough to deform the stuff while its cooling. As soon as I handled that, prints were near perfect for me.

>>2435457
yeah just the stock shroud with the default two fans since I'm too lazy to add additional ones
I guess at this point that's probably one of the next steps I'll need to look into if I want to continue having longer prints

>>2435346
phrozen mighty 8k

>>2435362
real wood PLA stinks but otherwise I don't have any fume/smell problems and I print about 8" from the side of my desk. PLA+ can have many different things added to make it +. I also print PETG a lot.

17.472 per KG with discount code LS3D5OFF
is this worth it?

https://www.zyltech.com/5kg-texas-size-spool-petg-3d-printer-filament-1-75-mm-11-lbs/

>>2435594
no? I got 2kg for $35, there are a few off brands on amazon for $16.xx / kg and you're not stuck with 4 extra kg if you don't like it.

>>2435602
Its the same price per KG as the stuff I posted but offbrand

just found this for 13.95 a KG now
https://www.zyltech.com/petg-3d-printer-filament-1-75mm-1-kg-2-2-lbs/?sku=FMT-PETG-BGE

>>2435604
you're still going to have most of a kg of barbie flesh tone™ PETG laying around. $14/kg isn't bad if tax and shipping don't make it moot. at least your only going in for 1 spool instead of 5.

>>2435610
>>2435610
>>2435610
>>2435610

>>2435608
muh colors

>>2435302
I don't think I've ever had that happen to me.
I just don't understand how something can come tangled from the factory, considering it's a single wound.
I'm going to call bullshit on your
>midway
or at the very least say that you yourself caused this.

why is this peeling up?
pla
220 c
60 c bed
ill find hte filament in a second.

>>2436505
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07VCPK9KC

ive used gluestick and hairspray with no effect. still peels right up. im trying to print hte AWCY? skorpion evo uppers