/diy/ - Do It Yourself

I don't really know but I am monitoring the thread. And I'm thinking about getting one to work with an off grid solar set up.

>>2426926
I've installed quite a few of these things (although never the "diy" precharged lines variety) and I like them. They're quiet and very efficient on power usage compared to common central systems if you're not in a crazy cold climate.
I recommend that you check into how cleaning the indoor units works (I bought a service bag to make it easy with mine) and look at some youtube guides about installing one with a vacuum pump etc. It will probably be cheaper than being locked into the "diy" versions only, and it lets you choose a wider variety of unit such as the ceiling mounted cassettes etc. But I realize that for a lot of people the simplicity of the precharged lines outweighs the slight cost increase and other tradeoffs.

Also, look into the issues with MrCool brand specifically. Their warranty and tech support suck balls and there is often minor issues even with their poorly written installation guides.

>>2426926
>chink company who shills to youtubers, claiming to do special shit
Walk away

Just get a window unit and hose it off every 2 years and it will last 30 years. Mini splits are mold makers and break down all the time.

>>2426981
For a house without ducting, minisplits are 100% the way to go. They are massively more efficient because the hot side is outside. Also they don’t leak through the window. Condensate is more efficiently removed as well

>>2426981
>Mini splits are mold makers and break down all the time.

I do maintenance for a large-ish church property. The Mitsubishi mini split that cools the main office is literally the only unit I've never had problems with.

Well, that's not entirely true. The condensate line clogged one time, but it runs nearly 100ft along a drop ceiling, so...

>>2426926
Quick connects leak gas.
Just buy/rent a vacuum pump and normal mini-split with copper line set and flaring tool.

>>2426981
>Mini splits are mold makers
Just like window rattlers. Or central for this matter

>>2427040
Do the guys that clean these wear hazmat?

>>2427041
no.
But yes, compare that to mini-split. So much easier to clean. Well, not as easy as window which u can remove and hose blast, but close enouhg.

>>2426981
I swear to god, if you go 30 years while listening to a window unit rattle and blow and never bother to think about upgrading to something better, you're a fucking caveman

>>2426962
the thing that mrcool has going for them is the "diy" quick connect precharged linesets. That's pretty much it. Other than that, they're a bottom or very low-middle tier chinese brand.

>>2427044
I think mr.cool is a rebranded midea

>>2426926
>Plastic blades
Huge red flag.

>>2426954
Theres a body on the right...

Wait what rattle are you talking about? My window unit does not rattle. Do you mean the window? Just get a good window.

>>2427038
iirc they dont use a quick connect, but more of a one time connector which pierces a seal as it tightens.

>>2427060
I don't know to be honest.
But I've heard that they get leaks. I mean, flares do leak too if you're fuck tard, but those linesets are flexible hose IIRC, and this might contribute to leaks too.

I think it is a meme, because classical flared copper isn't that hard. Actually, it is harmful, because all this muh global warming gas lea-... WAIT A SECOND, CHINKS ARE FUCKING GENIUS, IF YOU HEAT UP PLANET WITH FREON YOU GET TO SELL MORE ACS, ILLUMINATI CONFIRMED

It might be DIY-able, but I prefer to stick with a professional installer

>>2427115
>t professional installer

>>2427118
The joke was meant to be that they send MR. Cool ICE to install it but I worded my post poorly because I was driving

>>2427118

>this newfag doesnt get the Mr. Cool Ice meme

does anyone know of systems that are easy to charge then? I have access to a vacuum pump but i may need to buy lines.
do any come with automotive type recharge fittings? Otherwise i gotta get a can tap.

it seems lots of kits have preassembled lines so I can actually just slap it all together, pull a vacuum, and charge with a calculated amount of r134a or what

>>2427268
>do any come with automotive type recharge fittings?
No, R410a SAE nipple thing. Keep forgetting what thread.
>r134a
R410a.

You know what? better dont dick around with system call HVAC-scam.

>>2427044
>>2427046
In unit build quality is a concern why not just use the precharged lines with a better unit? I feel like this is a retarded question but I had to ask.

>>2427290
ok what happens if i put r134a in anyway, or r152a
I'm not paying $100/lb for r410a

>>2427301
If you're installing a multisplit it's 3k+$ in parts and you want to blow it up with the wrong refrigerant immediately to save a couple hundred?

>>2427301
>I'm not paying
Then get a window rattler, poorfag.

>>2427314

>>2427060
Those types of piercing connectors were actually fairly common on residential split systems way back in like the 60's or 70's. The manufacturers used them to make the systems easier to install (even though the piercing connectors cost more to manufacture compared to the sweat fittings)
They wound up switching to sweat fittings almost exclusively because of issues with leaks. Not 100% of units had problems, but enough of them kept having problems that they switched back.
>>2427268
Most of the residential minisplits use flared, threaded connectors to attach the lines to the indoor and outdoor units. You then attach your vacuum pump to the little valve stem on the outdoor unit-- I think it's a 5/16" SAE but I'd have to look it up -- and evacuate the lines. Next you turn the valve to isolate the vacuum pump and release the refrigerant into the lines.

>>2427301
The outdoor unit is precharged with all the refrigerant that the system needs.... after evacuating the air from the lines and indoor unit, you just turn the valve and start up the units. You don't normally have to measure in refrigerant unless you're using a non standard lineset.

The problem with using only a vacuum pump is that if you had a leak or didn't pull a strong enough vacuum, then you might have problems later. But if you take your time to do a good job putting the connections together at the proper torque and using an appropriate sealer like nylock, then you'll probably be fine. If you're only installing multiple systems or multiple head units on a several thousand dollar system, then consider getting a 100$ nitrogen tank and a cheap gauge set so you can pressure test etc. If it's just a single small system, then it might be worthwhile to just go commando.

>>2426926
you're infinitely better off with sticking a window unit through the wall and using great stuff to spooge around it and trimming it in, than a dedicated through the wall or ductless unit.

there, a pill that is relatively red.

>>2427089
They are 100% going to leak gas if they aren't soldered.

Just accept it and if it's what you want because yo like the look and don't want to look ghetto and save money like my suggestion >>2427456
then just accept that you'll have to open it up, have it serviced for $450 or replace the seals and vacuum it out.

>>2427460
>They are 100% going to leak gas if they aren't soldered.
I guess. Flares kinda work for ~10 years I think, then I suspect copper work hardens and seal is fucked.

I installed a mr.cool split for my uncle a couple weekends ago. Works fine so far.
I also installed a non pre-charged mini-split and that worked good too.
I like them. Stupid quiet.

>>2427038
https://www.nucalgon.com/products/specialty-products/flaremate

>>2427549
I don't know how do I feel about that. Most manufacturers don't tell you to use them.
Nylog tho, it is oil so it is actually what a lot of manufacturers call for.

>>2426926
I installed one last month, was easy and works great.

>>2427040
any solution to this?

>>2426981
>Mini splits are mold makers and break down all the time.
my fushitsu "heated" my lazy ass for 3 months with 5 years of dust as in it blew lukewarm air no matter what I set it to until I called some fuckers to do >>2427043
DO NOT GET FUSHITSU
MIDEA UNITS CAN BE DISASSEMBLED EASILY

>>2426926
vacuum pump is only 100 bucks
hoses, pipe cutter, pipe expander you could get for another 100 bucks

I'm guessing this shit costs a lot since it's non-standard
probably would be cheaper all in all to do it the normal way
especially since you can sell the tools later
or keep them for the next time

>>2426926
They don't keep us up. If you're so cheap you'd buy and attempt to install this then you got what's coming to you.

>>2426981
Based anon. Mini-splits are a bitch to fix, hard to get parts for, and grow mold instantly.

>>2427001
They are the way to go, especially for third floor/attic bedroom conversions. Even if you managed to get a forced air duct up there it wouldn't cool enough.

>>2427038
Quick connects leak when Mongo over-torques them. Also, make sure you buy a flaring tool made for mini-splits, your dad's old automotive flaring bar won't make the correct flare.

>>2427043
They sell mini split cleaning kits, but honestly if you keep the filter screens clear you shouldn't have to do this very often.

>>2427268
You need R410A and a gauge set with hoses for such. Diversitech sells a gauge set for under $50 that would work. Unfortunately, you'll need an EPA card and about $500 if you want a jug of R410a

>>2427298
most don't come with charged lines
as you cut lines to what you need

>>2427460
>They are 100% going to leak gas if they aren't soldered.
Brazed, not soldered. Also, no. If you use the correct mini-split flaring tool and a torque wrench to tighten to factory specs you'll be fine.

>>2427549
No. Don't add more joints. Use pic related.

>>2428505
If you're gonna DIY get a small vacuum pump. 1.2 cfm is plenty for residential. Gauges $50 or less online. It's the 410a that will soak you, about $500 for a 24# jug and you need an EPA card to get it.

>>2428511
>>2427268
they come precharged
enough for a few meters of line
(so read up on particular models and measure how far you want to place them, maybe you won't need to fuck with the beaurocracy)

>>2428515
you don't need to buy refrigerant for standard installs
ACs come with enough for standard line length

>>2426926
If you want to DIY I'd suggest getting the unit, installing it yourself, and then have an HVAC guy come out and start/charge it. Check on Craigslist in the wanted or barter section or ask around on Faceberg, you should be able to find a side jobber who'll start it up for some lunch money. If you really can't find someone, call an HVAC wholesaler near you and ask if they know someone who'd do it, might even be able to talk the counter guys into it. Just understand that if it breaks, it's your problem to get it fixed and find parts.

>>2428518
Yeah if he's running the standard length. If he's going more than 15' with the lines he'll need a top up.

>>2428511
>Also, make sure you buy a flaring tool made for mini-splits, your dad's old automotive flaring bar won't make the correct flare.
Meh, they make acceptable flares, it is just slower than eccentric one and you need to make sure that cone is oiled well.
45 degree SAE is 45 degree SAE.
>They sell mini split cleaning kits, but honestly if you keep the filter screens clear you shouldn't have to do this very often.
Filters on mini splits only keeps elephants and rats out of radiator. So it is a good idea to clean it every 3-6 months. Especially on cooling, on heating it is not as bad.
>You need R410A and a gauge set with hoses for such. Diversitech sells a gauge set for under $50 that would work. Unfortunately, you'll need an EPA card and about $500 if you want a jug of R410a
Is R410a that expenis in USA? Here is is like $150 per 10 kilo.
But anyway, mini splits rarely hold more than 850 grams, so you can buy shit small cylinders of ebay I guess.