/diy/ - Do It Yourself

First.

Could I make an "injection molded" abs part by 3d printing a mold, sealing it, then filling it with chopped up ABS + acetone?

Is there like.. a bridge 'attach point' length adjustment in prusaslicer? It pretty regularly fails to attach one end of a bridge, sometimes the beginning, sometimes the end.

>>2423412
Isn't that what PVC/ABS glue is?

>>2423412
Sounds like a good way to glue two mold halves together! In all seriousness though, check this shit out: https://youtu.be/25PmqM24HEk

okay so I just finished putting together my ender 3v2 and I have printed only a levelling print and a calibration cube. I just noticed that the part under the print bed (I guess that heats it up) has some cracks on it, this shouldn't affect the performance of the printer right? Is this a common issue? The thing arrived with no damage on the box and no other parts were damaged so idk.

Also, it was fucking hell trying to get the cube off of the print bed, I tried to use the scraper but I didn't want to scrape too hard because I was already scratching up the bed. Is this a common issue or is it just because it's a brand new bed so it stuck really well? Should I be worried about scratching up the print bed?

>>2423422
Don't remove hot things from that style of bed. Let it cool and it'll release by itself

>>2423422
What are those scuff marks on the right bed? I have them on my Anycubic but I'm not sure if I should try to remove them or just leave them be.

>>2423422
That bit is Aluminum don’t worry about it.

Prints sticking to the bed is good. It’s a problem when they don’t. Let it cool before removal, put it in the fridge if you really want to.
>>2423445
You just scraped the textured surface. Dw about it

>print with regular PLA
>no noticeable smell
>print with PETG
>no noticeable smell
>print 20% wood PLA
>house smells like woodworking shop in a bad way
learn from my mistakes. gonna make an enclosure with outside air ventilation.

>>2423422
Put a little glue stick on there for easier release, and also let it cool before you try to remove anything. Or, print with ABS, and it will peel itself off automatically while you print.

>>2423417
>Isn't that what PVC/ABS glue is?
Pretty much! I glue all my multi piece prints together with it (pic rel, 6 parts). Was hoping to treat it like soft epoxy
>>2423419
Full disclosure, i want to make a full car bumper. (Retard i know)
One of the big issues with aftermarket fibreglass ones is they are so weak to impact, hence me trying to go ABS like the original ones. Forged carbon is probably a touch impractical for the size.
I got a legit injection molded quote, minimum is 100 parts at $1700 each.

I also made this grille which might be suitable for carbon though, i might try it out, looks fun and a good way to improve quality and manufacturability

Newfag getting into resin 3D printing, only going to be printing dice and minis, any recommendations?
Currently looking at the
>Elegoo Mars 2 Pro
+
>ANYCUBIC Wash and Cure Station 2.0
But I'd much rather hear from people smarter than me and with actual experience.

>>2423443
>>2423446
>>2423452
oh okay, I wasn't sure how long to let it cool. I think I waited like 3 or 4 minutes but I guess I'll try giving it a lot longer.

>Or, print with ABS, and it will peel itself off automatically while you print.
heh, I plan on trying to do this later on so I'll look forward to it

Finally got rid of the decaying magnet sticker on my bed
Feels good for some reason

I have a sheet of glass and the magnet shit just makes it impossible to get off for cleaning

Replace magsheet with glass. Instead of knocking piece over it bumped the whole bed over, lol. This machine is cursed.

HOW DO I GET PRUSASLICER TO STOP MAKING GAPS BETWEEN WALLS.
I'm running 120% flow to compensate but even 100% flow is wayyyy to high for the infill. I'm doing 0.28 with wallwidth 0.5 everywhere. It's a hollow piece so there's nothing to 'trick it' into trying to do thin walls or anything, I verified in slicer that it's only attempting 0.5 width walls.

I guess I can try going back to normal line widths and do extra perimeters. Cura doesn't have this problem but I need the ability to set a custom # of perimeters for the first 20 layers. I can do that with Cura but it'll also print the outline of the modifier box inside the model. (i.e. can't remove 'fuzzy' without it printing additional top/bottom/perimeters around the 'border' of the modifier).

>>2423581
Honestly, this little nigga has saved me so much grief it's unbelievable how good it's been for $20.
Also, you can make a cheap enclosure for your printer with reflective bubble wrap insulation. remember to preheat your enclosure for a good 30 mins.

>https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/vta9j2/new_ender_3_pro_hot_end_overheating_when_set_to/
>“New” ender 3 pro hot end overheating when set to preheat.
Got a open box deal on a pair of ender 3 pros, while a few small parts have been missing I’ve been able to piece together one.

The first issue i had was no movement when using the autohome tool, I found out which board i had (4.2.2) updated the firmware and that solved the movement issue.

Next, When trying to use the preheat PLA tool both my hot end and bed start heating but my hot end keeps heating past 200 degrees and even when the interface says that the hot end should not be heating up it continues to do so. It heats to 275 before shutting off

I’ve read a little bit and it seems this could be the mosfet? Though it seems when that goes out the hot end immediately heats up when powered on. (I don't think it's the mosfet any more)

What would be the best troubleshooting avenues to look down?

Should i try the other printers hot end to see if i have the same issue?

It would be weird that firmware fixed one issue but started causing others( though this isn’t unheard of i guess).

I'm guessing something is wrong with the Hot End now because Pronterface can't heat it up. (but when controlling it through the enders control panel it works fine besides the overheating)


There is some troubleshooting I did in the reddit thread, but Don't want to completely spam this thread with the console outputs and unhelpful advice from them.

>>2423646
This is what an SDS looks like when your Chinese school glue supplier won't answer your emails.
I would have assumed it's just private-label PVA, but I'm reading Amazon reviews where Magoo didn't work and Elmers PVA glue sticks did, so...

>>2423679
I never said it was for an industrial application, but I don't think it's just PVA.
>Thinking amazon reviewers are competent enough to level their beds and appropriately calibrate their flows.
They just get pissed off when they misuse a product and don't get the results on the label.
We use the memepolymer adhesive at work because it's cheaper than other alternatives. PVA seems to only work for lower bed temps in my experience.

>>2423567
ask on >>>/tg/ theyre the resinfags. /diy/ is the filament boyz

>>2423725
Thanks anyway, have fun dudes.

>>2423744
>>>/tg/85160589

>>2423633
Enable gapfill

>>2423417
What's there bridge extrusion look like in the slicer when it does that?

>>2423633
Download prusa slicer 2.5.0-alpha2 and under print settings > layers and perimeters > advanced > perimeter generator select Arachne.

>check print
>decided to not extrude for a bit
>ah fuck I just replaced the extruder motor wires you've gotta be kidding me
>wait a minute the extruder is running fine you can see the gears moving
>push filament back in and it resumes
This is a new one for me
Hypothesis: not enough tension on the extruder when printing the outer perimeters at high speeds, started slipping instead of extruding. Dialed speeds back to 80% and cranked up the tension on the extruder a bit.

test of another kit piece turned out nicely, had one crash that fucked the outer wall at like 92% which was annoying but filler primer will always be there

How often do you guys use your printer? Have you used it enough to outweigh the cost of just having someone else print your parts?

>>2423899
What printer do you have?

Is it just me or has filiment prices dropped?
For a little bit it was pushing $22-25 a spool
I just paid $12 for PETG, never seen anything that low on Amazon.

>>2423918
what brand? You might be getting real low quality PETG at that price

>>2423918
>no reviews
Some magic Amazon shit going on here. But I'm also seeing a lot of $15 spools where they use to be $19. The end of inflation, I guess.
Anyway yes I'm gonna risk $12 on that shit, I can always use a neutral color.
>>2423921
Search Amazon for B09B4XFJQ9

>>2423916
FT-6 with a bunch of modifications, the latest of which was a complete redesign of the toolhead and Y axis. I still need to put together a spool holder.

>>2423915
An average of 12 machine hours a day between all of my machines over the last two years. I could get by with two printers, but having 4 around is nice for bigger projects, like IC3D's annual toys 4 tots campaign.

>>2423918
I only spent $400 on filament at MRRF. The show discounts were decent, but my total bill did seem a little low when I got home.

>>2423922
>Anyway yes I'm gonna risk $12 on that shit, I can always use a neutral color.
Same here, bought 2, first time buying filiment since the stuff I bought when I bought the printer.
Been slacking on printing because I've been out and mostly have ABS which I've had good luck with save for not being worth a damn for small parts.
Hopefully the 5 total spools I bought will last awhile since I won't be wasting so much on failed prints

>Get new printer, can't get one successful print
>Pieces keep falling over
>Replace PEI with glass
>Glass starts getting knocked around
>Replace with stronger bed clips
>Filament runout detector kicks in midprint as planned
>Notice machines 'done', instinctively clear build plate

This machine is cursed.

>>2423964
dumb frogposter

>>2423964
being retarded just makes life harder doesn't it

>>2423899
Need to up your temps with speed. Pressure advance tests I do like 240 or 250C with PLA+

>>2423744
You see this? It means NOT WELCOME!

>>2423967
Sir this is an emote free image board, please respect pronouns and give trigger warnings before posting frogs.
>>2423873
Gapfills enabled by default
>>2423880
Arachne's enabled by default.
>What's there bridge extrusion look like in the slicer when it does that?
Oh, you're right, kek. The bridge literally starts and ends in the air. Other times it's been when it's laying skin over infill so I thought it was the same reason. Thankfully it recovers on next layer and it's not too bad to clean up the few strands in the slot. Almost done making this large batch.

>bed is warped to fuck
fuck me, is there any way to fix it or do I have to replace it

>>2424095
Auto bed level and never worry about it again

>>2424098
problem is the huge difference in certain spots
I can level the corners perfectly, but lets say corner bottom left is perfect, simply moving halfway towards top left the nozzle is already digging into the bed. even with auto leveling

I live in a small apartment with my parents and I want to get some models I made 3d printed but I dont have eniugh space for a 3d printer. Is jlc pcb 3d printing services any good?

>>2424106
Where there's a will, there's a way: https://www.vorondesign.com/voron0.1

>>2424100
Can you up your points? I run either 5x5 or 7x7 and i think i could print on gravel

>>2424109
I run 5x5

>>2424118
You can export the mesh and then print a adjustment table which is the inverse of it, but youll still need a plate or something on top of it.

>>2424121
I heard you can use aluminium tape to flatten it out a bit, problem is there's a magnetic plate glued to the aluminium base and would have to replace the thing if I take it off

Any guides on electronics and hotend upgrade for an old ender 3 pro?

I've been thinking of getting mine back in action, want to get a V6 on it or something that uses the nozzle size, maybe Revo. I'm wondering if there are suggestions on the electronics and PSU as well.

>>2424176
What's your budget?

>>2424180

I can expend $200 to $300, any more and I guess I'd just get a new printer. My intentions is to get it working so I can have two printers at hand.

Thought it might just be better to buy replacement parts for the MK3S+ I have.

>>2424176
I'm just a retard, but I put a ~30$ micro swiss clone hotend (from gulfcoast robotics, although I assume there are probably a lot of good quality alternatives) on mine in addition to a cheap BMG clone dual gear extruder and it's been working great for a couple hundred hours of printing. Mostly with ABS.

For the ~45$ in upgrades, I felt that it was a really good improvement. I did have to hook it up via USB to my laptop so that I could use pronterface to set the E-steps high enough for the new extruder.

>>2424176
I have a Biqu H2 extruder ($80) on mine and a SKR Mini e3v3 mainboard ($40). Running Klipper on a RPI4 ($????, I paid $40 for mine a while ago).
The Meanwell PSU is good and doesn't need to be upgraded.

So for $160 I basically upgraded my Ender to as good as an Ender can practically get. There are tons of other upgrades but they are pretty insignificant compared to the three I mentioned above.

>>2424176
Not sure what electronics you'd want to 'upgrade' aside from maybe one of those silent boards, filament sensor, light bar and bed probe.
PSU's all pretty much look the same, I'd just get whatever has reviews on Amazon, probably $20-$30. If your board doesn't support it I guess I'd get one with that linear advance support and maybe a second driver for the Z axis.

DESU I'd just replace your hotend unless you have specific needs. Might even be able to just swap the thermistor/heater over and then you don't have to mess with the wires.

>>2424100
I can run a 20x20 mesh, see the Z change during print and it'll still almost drag the nozzle on the edges on a glass bed. I just disabled mesh yesterday and use it to measure what screw adjustments I need now.
1) Make sure you have X/Y offsets set for probe/nozzle distance.
2) Make sure it's not bumping into something at the extreme edges, try reducing the probe distance 10mm on each side. I had to reduce mine twice
3) Try flipping the bed over if you can.
4) Clean off gunk on your pom wheels and make sure their track doesn't have a layer of dirt. Tighten hotend onto the gantry, check if you can spin any of the wheels easily (It wouldn't wiggle but the left wheel would spin freely on all mine so I tightened it).

I dunno what the deal is, mine always drags at the front right, the corners will be at perfect matched height. Glass beds always end up showing a warp towards the middle. Since I can't solve it with mesh enabled I figured that I'd rather just not have it adjusting the Z during a print so I turned it off. I could rotate the bed 90 or 180 degrees and it'd do the same thing so I dunno.
'Bed Tilt adjustment' was useful tho, this option doesn't exist on Klipper as far as I know tho. Just adjust for 'tilt' and assume the bed is flat.

Maybe there's a way to manually steer it around while having it display the adjustments it wants to do.

>>2424205
>>2424212
>>2424214

good stuff.

I'll need to do an inventory of the stuff I bought pre coof that just went to a tray, but I am pretty sure I have a capricorn tube somewhere, an all metal extruder with the dual hub (I needed a new stepper because the stock one came with a hard fit brass gear I cant get to replace with the extruder) and I got a BLTouch. I think I also have a glass plate, though I bought a flex steel with PEI too.

All Id be missing would be an all metal hotend which Ive been wanting to get a V6 variant because I have a bunch of nozzles of the size, and yes I wanted to get a board that was silent. I do also have a raspberry pi 4b I bought just before the coof, with one of those adjustable camera modules too, so I could go with that too. and that sd card extender.

I also got a Wham Bam V2 box coming, but I dont think it'll fit this printer given its much taller than the MK3S+, which I think the V2 barely fits with a MMU on it.

>>2424106
just stick your 3d printer into your closet.

>Ender 3 won't feed
>Upgraded feeder
>Discovered nozzle wasn't heating
>Installed pic related
No change. The printer thinks the nozzle is at temp, but I can touch the nozzle. Sometimes it's warm, sometimes it's cold. But it's not 240C
The bed is warm.

>>2424242
is your heater cartridge connected?

Put it in a drop of water and see if it'll boil it.

>>2424244
Could I do a continuity test? That was the hardest part, that Ender board with the screws is in a very tight space.

anyone have any experience with clear filament and which brand i should buy?
doing an LED project for a friend. wont really matter if its PLA or PETG. doesnt have to be super clear but the clearer the better.

Have you guys found 3d scanners useful or do you tackle everything manually with calipers, some elbow grease, and a dream?

>>2424176
Before doing anything, can you let us know the voltage of your bed? If it's a 24V unit it might be worth it to spend on a second lead screw, 32bit control board if you're planning to continue running marllin, and installing an all metal hotend like a BMS dragonfly + triangle lab bmg extruder, and a magnetic pei sheet.
If it's a 12V bed, just keep it as is, maybe run klipper on it and replace the extruder with a triangle lab bmg and leave it for stupid knickknacks out of pla/petg. You'd be surprised how good a properly tuned ender 3 can print.

>>2424242
>The printer thinks the nozzle is at temp
uhhhhhhhh.. uhhHHhHHHHhhhHHHhh.
Does it think the nozzle is at room temp when it's not being heated?
It should be around 200-1000 ohms when hot and 100,000 ohms when at room temp.

>>2424235
>just stick your 3d printer into your closet.
I kinda wonder on this. I want to shove all of mine into a closet but that room has a Window air conditioner and I'm afraid of changing the temps when I open the door. I have a spare room but this shits so loud that I think it'd bother my neighbors on the other side of the wall. I think I'm going deaf from all the fan noise but it seems like it's $100 a pop to swap fans on an ender.

>>2424258
calipers, eyeballs, a set of files/sand paper, and a handheld vacuum.
Only place that a scanner might come in handy is having to model a compound curve/plane, which I rarely encounter and disregard most of the time I don encounter. Economic hobby scanners aren't good at these without appropriate markers and even then you'll still be hand fitting. They're a nice toy to play around with though.

>>2424264
>but it seems like it's $100 a pop to swap fans on an ender.
lol $100? fucking what?

>>2424264
>Does it think the nozzle is at room temp when it's not being heated?
The screen reads 240C, but I must have magic hands b/c it's cold.
I replaced the thermistor with one recommended for the Ender. Maybe my dumb ass can't plug it in the right way.

>>2424270
Where did you plug the thermistor in? Show us a picture of the new thermistor wire into the board.

>>2424274
lol. I wonder if it's backwards

>>2424275
Unplug it and measure the resistance of the thermistor at the wire's connector.

>>2424277
I ask simply because thermistors are easy to damage and short out when installing.
If you've got the glass bead type take it out and make sure the insulation is covering the leads.
If its the crimped cartridge kind it will be a bit more resistant to handling but can still short internally.

>>2424270
>I replaced the thermistor with one recommended for the Ender. Maybe my dumb ass can't plug it in the right way.

It doesn't care about direction. Again, I ask whether or not it reads room temp when it's not being 'heated'. Does it always read 240C? When does it not? What does it read when it doesn't?

We've already established that your microcontroller is getting ~200 ohms when it feels cool and it displays 240C. We're trying to establish whether or not it *always* does that, and if not then provide details on those cases.

[thermistor Generic 3950]
temperature1: 25
resistance1: 100000
temperature2: 150
resistance2: 1770
temperature3: 250
resistance3: 230

Is there an easy tool for adding bumpmaps/textures to STLs? I found some guides but even the authors say 'I'm using this sphere, I can't figure out how to get it to work on an imported model'.

inb4 gatekeepers suggest I devote more of my life to tools than the bare minimum. I.E. "Perfect" electronic simulators have 1000x more buttons than the "Good enough" ones and I'd suggest the retard friendly tool if you stumbled into one of my threads for help.

fucking ninjaflex is going to bleed my bank account dry at this rate

>>2424332
There's no generic equivalent you can get to replace it?

how does a skirt count as adhesion vs brim or raft? it doesn't touch the print so why do people use that when wanting to make the print more stuck to the build surface?

>>2424316
Try "fuzzy skin" in Cura for a quick and dirty way to get some bumps.

>>2424332
What's the advantage of this stuff over normal TPU? To me, it looks like a case of just raising the price to make it seem like a premium product, to justify the high price.

>>2424406
Try reading the specs sometime.

>>2424410
No.

>>2424379
The "skirt" gives you time to make adjustments like the z-probe offset before actually starting the print.
Some filaments want more "squish" than others.
It also gives an opportunity for any shit on the nozzle to come off before it makes it to a print.

How bad are those Creality Spider All Metal Hotend, they say they go to 500C, press F to doubt.

>>2424429
You need an adequate cartridge and thermistor, along with a copper nozzle.
Any of the hotends with an all metal heatbreak and a hotblock in a material better than aluminum will be good to 500C. Once you get PTFE and aluminum away from the heat most hotends will reach 500 easily. The challenge is in the thermistor and heater cartridge.

>>2424277
120 kilo ohms
>>2424274
Pic related, top right
>>2424309
The screen starts off at 0, then gradually climbs to whatever it's set at. If I change it, the screen changes the temp as well. Identical to how it was prior to failing.
I'll have to research measuring everything else.
I'll try to see if the heating element is connected next, but I can't see how that'd cause a false temp reading

>>2424454
* pic

>>2424454
>screen starts off at 0
0C Centigrade is not likely correct. Unless you're running this in a freezer.

>>2424429
You will need a PT100. Ordinary thermistors can't read that high with any accuracy.

That said, what's the point? Are you going to be printing ultem and PEEK all day?

>>2423398
Got a (modded)Ender 3 v2 here, and I've been having issues with heat creep in my all metal hot end killing multiday prints. Any advice on fixing the issue? A few posters elsewhere online told me to clean the boron nitride I put on the nozzles threads off, to better thermally isolate the nozzle from the heater block. That doesn't make sense to me, as I figure you want the heat being dumped there, instead of into the heat break?

noob here, what material would be hold up for a press-fit(?) wheel center cap? something similar to picrel. anything else for a total novice to know?
a local body shop has an immediate need to repaint a wheel this weekend but can't get the real part in time. they reached out to me (it guy) and are willing to buy a printer so they can accommodate last minute jobs like this. ive never messed with 3d printers but dabbled in autocad/solidworks/blender/etc. been scouring every resource in the op and anything else i can find but would appreciate a more knowledgeable opinion. huge thanks in advance

>>2424619
Abs, followed by petg.

>>2424564
>I've been having issues with heat creep in my all metal hot end
You could start by telling us what hotend it is.
>inb4 microshit

Anyways, an easy "fix" for heatcreep is to just print faster. Filament enters the heatbreak cold and picks up heat as it heads towards the nozzle. The more filament you use per second the less heat creep you have.

>>2424619
lol bro I hate shops like yours, oh no you broke yet another one of my center caps. fuck you just order the real replacements and be honest with the customer. whatever you print is going to look like shit

>>2424634
>Abs
Not UV-stable. ASA would be better.

>>2424698
But yes, it's not going to match a OEM part.

>>2424682
A gulf coast robotics clone, probably the same one talked about by another anon in this thread. Printing faster might be difficult, but I'll tinker around and see what I can do. The slim stepper motor I have mounted struggles at higher speeds :/

>>2424718
>A gulf coast robotics clone
You mean picrel? That's even worse than microswiss.
You can't have a decent all metal hotend in the same form factor as the E3's stock hotend. The reason is heatcreep, as you and many microshit owners have come to know.
Either go with a V6 hotend or go back to the stock PTFE tube hotend.

Okay, what the fuck is going on? My vertical Z axis lines are all fine and smooth, and so are the diagonal ones, but as soon as the lines start running parallel to the build plate, it starts looking like bad pussy. Pic related as will the next ones. I'm also having adhesion issues most of the time. Opinions?

>>2424756

>>2424758

>>2424759

>>2424756
Lol you have a lot of work to do

>>2424763
Cool, like what? I've got the bed leveled. Is this a calibration issue? I'm not looking for spoon-feeding, but a general idea of what to focus on?

>>2424768
I'm assuming this is all PLA.
Not pictured: verify extrusion multiplier. If you ask for 100mm of filament, do you get 100mm? do you get 98mm? make sure this is right before proceeding.
A: Nozzle too far from bed? inconsistent extrusion? Bed not hot? Part not sticking to the bed? Printed on a raft? I'll be honest I don't know how your bottom layer looks this shit, but this should be the easiest to start with. Make sure your z offset is exactly as it should be. Start by getting this consistently within +/- 0.02mm.
B: Insufficient cooling. Not much you can do about this, any FDM machine will have a limit to overhang angle. Increase fan speed if you can, replace fan, add more fan, anything to help with cooling.
C: Stringing. Tune retraction settings.
D: Pressure advance issues; gaps inconsistent at corners.
E: Overextrusion on the lower section, could be caused by the part lifting from bed and curling. On the raised section with text, could be made worse by pressure advance.
F: Seam looks bigger than it should; play with extrusion, pressure advance, and wiping settings
G: Not sure why your edge here looks fucked. Again, if the part was lifting from bed, could compound issues on higher layers. Also could be cooling related.
H: Stringing, again retraction settings and wipe settings. Do you have Z hop enabled too?

Run through this. Depending on your firmware and slicer, some things may have different names:
https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide

>>2424777
>>2424768
Forgot image

>>2424427
i see, thanks. makes sense now

>>2424401
how do you 'block' areas you don't want fuzzy skin in cura?

>>2424768
I was having bottom layers that looked exactly like yours, and what worked for me was lowering the z offset and increasing the extrusion multiplier (after testing the extrusion by extruding 100mm and only receiving like 92mm)
That got my bottom layers a LOT better and improved adhesion, increased the extrusion consistency and got rid of the weird gaps between lines.

Shortly after that I wound up upgrading to a 15$ BMG extruder clone and haven't looked back, but >>2424777 is giving some good advice about where to start. I would check that the bed isn't too far from the nozzle, the extrusion multiplier is properly calibrated, and the retraction settings before moving on to the other stuff

>>2424777
Yes, I do have z-hop enabled, because otherwise it looks even worse. I do get curling too. The nozzle is pretty good on the bed, -1.8 mm and the test pattern prints good no problem (I have a Prusa MK3S+).

So basically the gist that I'm getting is that my mechanicals are fine, it's the slicer settings that need work? The only thing I don't know is how to futz with "pressure advance issues," but I'll look into it.

>>2424800
Okay, both of you mentioned extrusion multiplier, so I'll look into that. I'll keep you guys updated, thanks.

Question - how do you know all this? I'm "teaching" myself this crap by essentially doing stuff, but I'm wondering if there's a better way.

>>2424768
On top of the things other anon's suggested, try checking your belts tension.

>>2424807
>Question - how do you know all this?
I had issues and then searched about "common 3d printer problems" and followed the links. There are a lot of guides about this. Pic related.
You can also find big chart pictures with that show causes and effects of the various common problems.

I also strongly recommend the guide here: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
It has videos that take you step by step through the process of setting up and calibrating basically everything on your machine to get it perfectly into tune. For example, in the first video, "frame check", it guides you through checking the machines assembly and frame, levelling the bed, checking the belt tension, etc etc. Then it starts going through additional videos like PID tuning the heating block, calibrating the extruder, etc etc

>>2424793
No real block, but there is a sub option to only do fuzzy skin on the outside.

>>2423445
you've scraped the bed by having it too close to the nozzle.

Is the new bridging extrusion multiplier shit in prusa slicer 2.4?

>>2424857
Awesome, thank you!

>>2424793
prusa slicer has fuzzy skin now
you can probably use it as a modifier

>>2424619
you're fucked dude
you don't have time to learn 3d printing

>>2424619
if you don't want complaints about replacement parts that look like stale dog turds, industrial SLS printer with a service contract

I linked my benchies together

>>2424235
I dont even have a closet or a room. Its a small one bedroom apartment.

>>2424793
Support blocker feature area in Cura and Prusaslicer can do mesh modifiers to remove fuzzy, the problem is that it then draws the 'modifier' box with extra walls and shit. You can do a 'layer height' modifier also.
>>2424952
Bondo and paint, lol.

>>2424260

Sorry it took so long to get it off the shelf and check it, I was going to check it with a multimeter after I cleaned it but it just says on the bed is a 220w 24v model on the backside of it.

And yeah I can confirm I got a double gear metal extruder from Creality, a Capricorn PTEF tube replacement, I got some hardened steel extruders for the hotend stock, and I got a boxed BLTouch from Creality.

I'd like to get it a 32bit board and run klipper on it, I got a raspberry laying around for it too. I'd just need the board and the hotend... Oh and I think if I want to make this a direct drive I will definitely have to get rid of this stepper, that brass gear is stuck there, it ain't coming out.

Why is my heater cartridge is so much weaker than it used to be? Did I blow it out by trying to run it at 280 degrees? The pwm is 90% when running 200 degrees, then jumps to 99% when parts cooling kicks on.

>>2425147
>And yeah I can confirm I got a double gear metal extruder from Creality
You sure the entire thing is metal?
Looks like just the standard one which will fuck up after a time.
The plastics break in a non-obvious way sometimes

>>2423398
I'm going to buy an Ender 3 v2 and put on the micro swiss direct drive kit and a cr touch for a total of $390
Is this a smart decision vs buying one around that price point which has those features?

>>2423398
I think I will join this party next paycheck. I am ready to fail.

>>2425029
Heil'd

>>2424500

>>2425253

Yes, its that red one you slap on replace for the black plastic one that comes with it.

It clink and clanks, I've even scratched it, its Aluminum.

Why the fuck did creality think it was a good idea to press fit their fucking steppers with brass gear? I wanna go get a dremel and just cut it but I bet the shaft wont be good for the double gear extruder after that.

Also I am looking at some SKR Boards, dont these Bigtree guys supposedly stop producing boards left and right? I swear there was one that heard two years ago Im guessing they stopped making it?

>>2425266
It's fine. microswiss optional. One of the benefits of going ender 3 is that you have so many aftermarket options. If you're new to 3d printing, you could skip on any accessories for a couple months to see if you actually use/have a need for the printer rather than sinking money into it

Anyone has that Hemerra clone BIQU H2? I'm thinking of strapping one to my Ender 3 Pro.

>>2425452
Yes, I have one on my E3Pro. It works well. I printed just about every backplate and fan duct design out there. Most of them sucked so I had to remix my own by combining two different designs into one.

>>2423905
stormtrooper shoulder armor ?

>>2425266
Why do you want direct drive? The only ender 3 mod I would recommend without any other information would be an all-metal heatbreak

>>2425557
I plan on mostly printing with TPU and I've read that it's better to use direct drive instead of the bowden tube but I have no idea if that's accurate or not.

>>2425491

I'm guessing the Stock Ender 3 carriage is not going to cut it. I got another printer I can do PC stuff and I got some Polymax PC, you mind sharing what worked?

Did you buy a heater cartridge and thermistor, or used the stock? Package doesn't seem to imply it comes with anything.

>>2425561
Very accurate. I can print tpu faster(and nicer quality) than I can print pla, or petg, on my direct drive printer.

What hotend should I swap on my Enders 3s? I guess someone said H6 was good but I have no idea how that mounts?
Finally turned Pressure Advance back on, at high speed 200% I was getting inner wall gaps. Kinda wondering if this is part of the reason why I've been having so much trouble with Prusaslicer since it already defaults to having a higher inner wall speed. I turned it off in the first place since it was causing wall gaps (exterior) and I'd just keep lowering it more and more well beyond what the 'calibration' had me do.

>>2425358
Your thermistor is bad or your board capacitor C9? is bad.. You measured 120k ohms and that's why it's reading 0 degrees C. Swap wires for the bed/extruder to isolate it or replace thermistor.

It forms a voltage divider, room temp should measure about VCC (which it does for you), the 'hot' temperatures are when that voltage drops because the resistance is low.

>>2425215
>Why is my heater cartridge is so much weaker than it used to be?
Thermistor mounting and maybe not having a silicone sock over the nozzle area. My shit used to run about 90% also but the rest of my printers would hang around 60%, the thermistor finally went bad and I swapped it and it went back to 60% like the others.
God knows WTF was going on where it could dump 50% more heat but not 'see' that heat?.
>Did I blow it out by trying to run it at 280 degrees?
Ehhhh. The 3950 lists values up to 300C. Maybe you killed it if you're not using an Ender. The Enders have ~5k resistor inline to limit the current going through it.

>>2425642
>God knows WTF was going on where it could dump 50% more heat but not 'see' that heat?.
More heat dumped means more heat dissipated.
No expert but there probably isn't a linear relationship between heater cartridge on time and actual nozzle temp and depending on what you are printing the extra temp may not matter

>>2425576
It comes with a heater cartridge and thermistor. They work alright.
Here's my Ende btw:
>>2424212
I ultimately went with this design for the duct. No means perfect, main criticism being that it seems too restrictive, but it puts the airflow in the right place.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5101234

For the backplate, I dunno what would work for you. I wasn't totally happy with any of them, but this is the one I think is best.
https://www.printables.com/model/152676-biqu-h2-mount-for-ender-3

All parts are printed in ABS for heat resistance. Even still, the duct is melting a bit because it sits right up against the heater block.

>>2425756

This thing uses Nozzles of the same size as Ender 3, or does it use V6 hotend size nozzle?

>>2425764
V6 nozzles

When the hell are the Obxidian nozzles happening? Been putting off a revo hoping they would be out soon.

>>2425789

You rather get a Revo when they are available, when everyone else also plans to get them, or before when you can actually get them?

>>2425756

Amazon reviewers are talking about getting a bimetal heatbreak for this.

Are BIQU H2 not stock All Metal Hotends? Why?!

Got my first spool of this >>2423918
Not much to say other than it prints
Had a benchy but I left the fan on 100% and it split taking it off the bed, did look good otherwise.

It manages to do better than overture. Overture PETG just makes a complete mess of infills at 50mm/s. This random Amazon brand still ain't perfect but atleast I don't have to knockdown the speed to get infill that looks like something.

>>2425879

>Infill that looks like something

Why? Its INfill, its INSIDE the part, where you shouldnt be seeing it. Are you only printing translucent PETG?

>>2425886
Let me clarify
When I say infill that looks like something I mean you actually have infill that would serve a structural purpose and would support the top layers.
Overture wouldn't even do that at 50mm/s you'd get something similar to this.

>>2425877
Mine came with a bimetallic all metal heat brake.

>>2425857
I've wanted to buy one to clean up my delta (RMaxV2), but I'm getting buy with a normal V6. I just hope that they're available by the time I can gather the resources for a custom delta to replace my current one.

>>2425879
Mine came today as well. Prints well. I'm pretty happy with the color. It looks like the same gray plastic that old Nintendos and SNESs were.

>>2425893

Yeah I just noticed that there is the H2 V2.0 and then there's the H2 500C, that is the one that comes with the All Metal Heatbreak with no PTFE lining.

I guess I'll just buy an all metal heatbreak for the H2 V2.0, thought it might not be that dissimilar in pricing from the 500C one... Even though I dont plan to run PEEK anytime soon on it.

Would the board handle the 70w cartridge it comes with though.

>>2425029
Cool it with the antisemitism.

Anyone tried the Haldis 3D Red Lizard V6 clone?

I wanted to get a Phaetus Dragon, but there are none listed on Aliexpress, its like these Chink fuckers at Triangle Labs stopped making them...

The Red Lizard one claims to be a replacement, anyone had experience with both?

I'm thinking of building a Voron afterburner and slapping it on an Ender 3 for fun and giggles while I can afford the rest of the BOM for a 2.4 Voron.

Printing ABS without enclosure on PTFE hotend at 230. Halfway done on a 24 hour print. Wish me luck lads.

Has anyone tried the new overhand extrusion multiplier in prusa slicer?
Can it still bridge for a few inches?

>>2426091

have you taken any look at it?

You sure its not a ball of plastic slinging around?

Well maybe it would have already caught on fire.

>>2424258
scanners good enough for functional parts are too expensive
maybe you can make it work if you're some kind of blender wizard

>>2426091
Depends on the part and whether you need it to be dimensionally accurate.

Fun with annealing. Realized too late that 'warping/shrinking' of PLA occurs *below* the glass transition temp at about 50C.
My 'resize' anneal experiment was a success, the machined threaded parts changed dimensions and fit together after annealing. I'm doing this in a hot water bath so the bottom is going to be cold so I bought some cookie racks but they were too big to fit so all my pieces are a bit warped on the bottom.
HTPLA actually is some pretty good stuff, it changed dimensions 1% instead of the 4% PLA+ does. RN I'm printing a full machine out of each material 'resized' to anneal and hoping for the best

>>2426100
I didn't bother to cool and clean bed after printing cal cube so the 1 wallwidth draft shield is ugly from unsticking in spots but main piece seemed fine and adhered except for like 1mm of a corner that got rounded. 110C bed. ASA not ABS. Trying that digital sundial to take a break from PLA and enjoy the fumes.

I have enclosure I'm just too lazy to set it up although I need to do that next time. 0.12 height so the warpings non-existent except for 1/2mm of curling on overhangs in a few spots

>>2426105
Not really. As long as it's flat.

Sorry for potato. Pic is the ASA piece unrelated to annealing. Just the draft shield is ugly. The piece ate a few strands of it too.

I dunno why but this ender does a calcube perfectly with ASA, and its identical brother next to it, using the *same* spool of filament in the same hour will make a potato looking calcube. It's always just ugly on the 'face' of the calcube around the X. Hotend fan or something I dunno but they're identical. It always does that tho. Didn't realize until today it was just that machine being weird.

>>2426112
>As long as it's flat.
>ABS
>Long straight wall sections.
>No enclosure.
I rarely advocate for PETG, but this is perhaps one of those cases where you might've been better off.

>>2425957
I really like the texture you got on the top surface.

>>2426122
Mei textured bed.
They're really forgiving in terms of first layer height.

>>2423398
Can one 3D print condoms as a cost saving measure?

>>2426129
In my day, we used Saran wrap when we were broke. Feels great, too.

>When your levels so off your first layer eats the skirt and there's nothing left of it

>TFW first layer eats entire skirt

Ree. God this Sunlu S8 is junk. Can't go more than an hour without the Y axis skipping. Pile of metal shavings under the Y stepper. Fucking gear is loose.

I like the machine, it's a good value but god damn if half the bolts are so loose you can unthread them with your fingers out of the box.

>>2426178
what?

>>2426202
Huh?

It hula hoops the draft shield at this point.
Would it be a bad idea to acetone vapor smooth this? Some of the parts are just single strand bridges. Exterior finish is pretty good except for a few flow buldges.

>>2423398
What's the most profitable use of these things

>>2426301
most profitable: specialized on-demand prototyping for corporations that their in-house model shops are too cheap to pay for.

Nice bird

There's like prime day deals and shit today btw. like 25% off a bunch of filament. Go forth and consooom

First large ASA print was a success (digital sundial). I did one cal cube before this. Dunno what to do about the crunchy softs bits at the top tho. I imagine cooling related since I've been doing fans off, trying SuperSlicer instead of Cura for next one and doing it at 200% speed. Built up enclosure and threw it in. 100F enclosure seems about the same, maybe a little less curling. Warped pretty bad at 90C bed so I redid it again at 110C, no draft shield this time tho.
>>2426464
pew pew. Kinda funny how so many of them are used as parking lot ornaments.
>>2426304
Pretty much. We goofed on a prototype and had to hire all the printers we could find to crank out a replacement piece while we waited the months for injection molding production to ramp up.

>>2424258
hp 3d scan v5 for scanning
projector + industrial camera for scanner
geomagic design x for reverse engineering

torrent it
yw

if i have cylinder with 5mm diameter what diameter should i set my 3d printed hole to for the cylinder to fit in there tight enough to not fall out easily, but at the same time where i can still insert it without using too much force by hand?
something like 5.1mm? i have ordinary chinkshit printer

>>2426502

I waited until now looking for upgrades to my Ender 3 Pro, and with all the sales my budget of 200 will fit a H2 500C, a SKR3 and a dual Z Axis mod.

Once I have it up and running I'll come back... hopefully I dont explode something.

>>2426646
>fdm
ew...ewwwwwwwwww
get sla you dipshit

>>2426649

>Functional SLA Parts past two months

shiggy diggy

>>2426224
YEAH!

>>2426502
Is filament all the same, or is there any brand I should avoid

Is there a single Y-Axis Adjustable model for the Ender 3 Pro that doesn't fucking take any millimeters off the Y Axis?

All of them seem to take from at worst 40mm to 10-5mm.

>>2426502
>They're used as parking lot ornaments
SR-71s? These things? The only one I've ever seen in person was at a Lockheed museum down in Georgia.

>>2426690
what are you even trying to do?

>>2426683
>Is filament all the same
kinda.
i tend to not go for the super cheap brands because they can sell some "expired" filament. i bought some PETG that had a ton of moisture. or pla that ended up being super brittle.
just look at a brand and read reviews, or hope theres some kind of youtube video review on it as well.

I flashed a OS on my enter 3 on accident. What firmware do I need for a stock ender 3?

>>2426698

Have belt tensioners that are adjustable.

Mine had an ABS printed one but it exploded when I pulled it down the shelf to clean and see if I can resurrect it.

I'll either print one for the Y axis out of PC or use the stock, because the ABS one I have now wont cut it.

>>2426763
Depends on what version board you have in there, the normal enders switched at some point to a better one. But this is a great chance/moment to switch over to raw marlin from the creality firmware.
here's where you find links to the machine specific marlin versions, in stock config: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.0.x/config/README.md
just load that one, and modify it if you want to.

>>2426665
WHAAAAT IS IT GOOD FOR?

>>2426785
Not him but what benefits is there to go regular marlin vs creality?

>>2426880
Two benefits:
Creality essentially takes a snapshot of the marlin firmware, changes some settings, adds their own splashscreen, then flashes that version onto their machines. Flashing marlin yourself means that
1. you are guaranteed a more up to date version, with all the improvements that brings
2. you can customize it and change things you want, like change settings, use 100% of the buildplate etc. It's necessary if you want to use sensors, but imo still worth it if not.

>>2426834
ABSOLUTELY NOTHIN!

>>2424108
I dont think its possible to have a voron 0.1 as your first printer, you need a 3d printer to print voron parts.

>>2426882
Except Marlin doesn't support the replacement for STM chip that Creality is using now

Can I run 35% fan on enclosed ABS for most of my print? I had to kick on some fan to print one of these sundial stands which had a short layer time.

Also how does I vapor smooth ASA. I left that shit for hours in the sun dangling over a bunch of acetone in a sealed jar and it didn't seem to do anything. I thought my 'nail polish' acetone was dilluted so I got some of the good shit but it seems to behave the same. I dipped my piece in a big bucket of acetone a few times which kinda worked but now it's all splotchy white instead of black.

fuck enders
broke after 1200 hourse
bought prusa mk3s, never looked back

>>2423398
Bros what is the best mat for 3D printing creality 3 v2? The glass one that came with it is fucking garbage. I had to use tape to get decent prints.

I'm also looking for good amazon prime shit for the 3D printer too

>>2427020
invest in PEI sheet for pla or abs, best investment for shitty printer. It also gives the nicest texture you'll ever find on 3d print

>>2426975
I stick my print in a sealed plastic tub with a little cup of acetone. This might be the wrong way to do to though, now that I think about it I never learned this anywhere, it was just the first thing I tried when I started printing ABS/ASA and it worked so i didn't question it.

>>2423398
So I did a temperature tower for PETG on my ender 3.
260C and 250C are a complete mess as expected and stringyness declines all the way to 225C in which it's gone.
Something odd though when I was trying to break it was that the higher temps where weaker than the lower temps, kinda expected the opposite. Just used my hands and that's not completely reliable so I was wondering if anyone else noticed the same?
The fan was kinda high at 80% so maybe the higher temps would be stronger if the fan was lower?

>>2425029
I print Cali Cats and give them to my mom. She collects them like they are her own little Pokemon. Hate the waste of calibration prints.

Amazon has some pretty good pla and resin deals atm, if anyone is unaware. I picked up two rolls of giantarm pla. Cheapest I've seen it at

>>2427042
Yep, running the fan reduces layer adhesion with petg. I don't use any fan at all.

>>2427105
I have a bucket full of benchies.
Don't have any use for them, don't know anyone who would want them, or anyone with a trebuchet and a target they want pelted with plastic boats.

>>2427202
>with petg
Happens with all filaments, not just PETG

>>2427256
True, but with petg you can run fanless without the sagging problems you would have with other plastics.

>>2425540
close, something for a mando kit

I got a neptune 2 and put a ABL on it. I got the marlin build by this guy on it, and it levels, but when printing its an inch over the bed. try to adjust the z step while printing? will that stick in the memory or not?

>>2427257
no... Your petg profile is probably a lot slower than your other profiles or something else is different because it likes to warp just the same

>>2426639
5mm. Drill it out with a 5mm drill bit or reamer.

>>2427214
Start leaving them in random places in public. I drop prints at college bars and watch the knuckle draggers lose their shit.

Quality Chinese engineering. Just jizz on everything until it runs smoothly.

>>2427503
Lube is universal no matter how good a part is.

>>2427504
Very true. I'm just impressed that the chinks went so hard on this one. It's like buying used anime figures. I am overall in awe how much heftier the Jupiter is compared to the Mars. The form factor is not unlike a mini-fridge.

>>2427484
I'm sorry you have trouble with it but that sounds like a personal problem.

What causes these ripples

>>2427610
nozzle too close to bed
grease from fingers on bed
nozzle too far from bed
dirt on bed

>>2424564
Cleared out the jam, assembled a Hero me v6, updated firmware, and did a PID tune. Hopefully that'll do enough to improve cooling.

>>2427610
Poor bed adhesion.

Clean bed with dawn dish soap and correct z-offset.

Bros is it worth getting resin 3d printer yet? I think FDM right now is good enough.

How far are we away from a metal 3D printer? Or is CNC machines better now I want to have a business.

This might be a dumb question:

Is a cured resin piece safe to have warm and next to a fan? I'm wanting to print a fan bracket-thing in clear resin. It will be slightly warm and next to the blowing fan... any offchance risk the warm resin will produce any gases? Sorry I'm autistic as fuck about my air.

So I did my first print that uses supports and the part that was supported didn't come out quite well, and I'm not sure why. I just used tree supports and I assume all the other settings were default, any suggestions?

>>2427806
it looks good to me.
What do you think flat contact supports look like?
If you want a perfect finish you need either dissolvable supports or some kind of release medium. If the support is all on one layer and want a cheap trick, try using a sharpie manually.
https://hackaday.com/2020/05/27/improving-3d-printed-supports-with-a-marker/

https://youtu.be/oBGl4i668Tg

I keep getting jams and what I can only interpret as heat creep, so I'm tempted to ditch my direct drive system and go Hemera.
I don't need hot swappable nozzle diameters but when I've had to replace a nozzle I've hated the process of re-calivrating z-offset...
Is the Revo general a good option?

>>2427834
>so I'm tempted to ditch my direct drive system
shill

>>2427834
Its great on paper, but until the Obxidian nozzles are in, its not worth killing off my v6

>>2426770
If your ABS prints are weak then it is soaked with water my dude. Its the only filament I have ever had to dehydrate and it makes the difference between being strong and useable vs. brittle as all fuck.
>>2426880
afaik all creality printers do NOT support pressure advance changes so you're permanently stuck at a certain speed and acceleration value (for acceptable results) unless you flash your own firmware

>>2427620
What the fuck is that printbed

>>2427480
You'll have to save the current settings once its printing correctly.

>>2427855
Glue. Theres a solid layer across the entire build plate. I got tired of failed petg prints because of bed adhesion issues causing failed prints, researched build plate materials, realised the only thing better than what I'm using rn, that would be cost efficient anyway, was like 60$ for a sheet of it. Said fuck it, and just started caking the build plate with glue. I'm still using the same glue sticks I bought 2 years ago for 4$. It works, even if its ugly.

How tight does my X gantry pom wheels need to be on an Ender. I keep adjusting so I can just barely turn the wheels by hand and to minimize the updown motion on the unsupported side.

I relevel bed but then it usually just constantly drifts around. I do the klipper probe leveling so it says 'turn this screw X degrees', and it takes about 10-20 tries to stabilize.. Basically it stops being consistent and will have a dramatically diff result each probing. My original Ender 3 was silky smooth on the X, you could move it up/down by hand by grabbing the gantry but now it's just impossible to do that. Kinda wish I didn't adjust it but I was tired of the bed drifting a ton (silicon spacers).

I put dual Z motors on one of my Enders but that thing likes to be retarded and get out of sync so I usually end up with X gantry tilt after every print and also need to constantly relevel.

>>2427829
>If the support is all on one layer and want a cheap trick, try using a sharpie manually.

Heat from a lighter or from holding over boiling water will turn the white PLA marks from supports or scratches back to its original color. You don't need to melt it, it happens pretty much instantly.

>>2427916
Only tight enough to remove any slop and no more. If you tighten them too much you'll put a flat spot on the wheel and you'll have to replace it.

>>2427923
Can't get a flat spot if you never leave it idle.

>>2427891
cool thank you dude

>>2427848
Yeah I'm running standard AliExpress triangle labs brass nozzles, I don't think I worry about the quality of the brass nozzles

Is anyone else getting garbage adhesion with a stock ender 3 build plate.

>Looks through social media profiles of other printer enthusiasts
>It's all trannies preparing for civil war

Whoever makes a blue/pink printer will make out like a bandit.

>>2427916
>>Heat from a lighter or from holding over boiling water will turn the white PLA marks from supports or scratches back to its original color. You don't need to melt it, it happens pretty much instantly.
M8, although the input is appreciated, it is clear both posts were about surface texture on the underside of supported layers. Look at the post I was responding to. It has nothing to do with color. Think of the permanent marker as an interface layer that you can apply manually and of zero layer thickness. Pic related is the underside of a part printed with supports and using a sharpie on the interface layer.

>>2428100
neat

Someone gave me a 3d printing pen so I want to try welding 3d printed parts together with it. Its max temperature is 240c, is that enough for PETG? My slicer does 240c for the first layer and 250c for every layer afterwards

i'm printing a AWCY Sczorpion Evo. with 100% infill or close to it, how many walls do i need?

the instructions are just basic stuff.

>>2428125
Should be. Try it and let us know how it turns out

I would like to print with pla+ and cf nylon what 3d printer should i purchase? must be atleast ender 3 sized print bed

>>2428169
basically any low budget FDM printer will do PLA+ out of the box. They usually only recommend to bump the temperature by like 5-10 degrees when going to PLA+.
CF Nylon is going to want much higher temps, so you can either get a low end machine like the ender3 or one of the cheap clones like the voxelab aquila and then upgrade the hotend, possibly add and enclosure, etc etc, or you can start off with a somewhat more expensive machine that is more capable out of the box.

I went the first route and I've been happy with it, but I can't offer advice about which decent mid range machines offer the best value

>>2427834
Just get a V6 or a Volcano. They're a better investment than the pricey as fuck hemera or the eternally in development revo.
I got myself a Volcano clone from Ali and I oftentimes forget that hotends can even clog. In the 2 years I've had it the damn thing never clogged. Not once.

>>2428015
Almost everyone with a stock ender build plate.

I just installed a new direct drive on my ender 3 but the new stepper motor isn't working properly. It keeps clicking back and forth. Any ideas what could be the issue?

ordered a dual z-axis kit for my ender3 but the tracking number I got shows it's going to fucking Whoville or whatever, so how long would it take me to print a working helicopter to fly over there and intercept the clearly meth head delivery driver

>>2428242
You have a bad connection somewhere that causes only one set of coils to work.

>>2428259
I reused the original connection. Does that mean I have to switch the wiring from the board? In the meantime I'm using the old stepper which is fine but heavier

>>2428261
It could also be that the new stepper is wired differently. Use the multimeter to check for continuity on the stepper and compare that tor the old one.

>>2427503
I puked half of vaseline tube on Z axis screw, went totally smoother

>>2423554
the struggle is real. this is PETG 260C and UV resistant. ABS is 220C and not UV resistant. good fugging luck making car parts.

>>2423646
is that a $20 glue stick? damn son

>>2423725
>tfw you want to be a resinfag
someday anons, someday.

>>2424316
If you are importing an STL then you need blender to modify it. If you're building the 3d file then Fusion3D is good. Fusion just sucks ass at any kind of existing STL manipulation. Maybe post exactly what you're trying to do?

>>2428305
>>2423554
Use ASA, it is widely used in automotive specifically because of its heat and UV resistance.

Anyone know of some good deals right now on pla +, petg, or something cheap and great for fdm models? budgets very limited, currently, but I'd like to make a statue for a friends birthday.

>>2428305
>ABS is 220C
Oh shit nigger what are you doing?
ABS is 245C at absolute minimum. If you want decent layer adhesion you need around 260C.

Is torching with a propane torch a valid method to clean nozzles?

>>2428390
yes, it's good for getting rid of clogs in the hot end too

>>2428394
Well that makes me feel better.
I have issues with the ptfe tube sometimes having a gap between it and the nozzle after some printing so everytime I change the nozzle there is some shit on the face of the nozzle where the ptfe should sit.
When this happens it's often just easier to use a new nozzle since they are sooo cheap but I'm moving to steel nozzles which aren't cheap enough to be disposables.

>>2428410
make sure that you have a nice square end on your ptfe tubing. If the cut isn't made perpendicular to the axis of the tube, then those kinds of issues are unavoidable.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/ptfe-tube-cutter-kamilglryz

>>2428417
Yeah I have the cutter you get from buying capercorn tubing.
I think the hotend tube fitting just isn't gripping very well even with the clip.

>>2428410
Use this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3386628
Cut the PTFE a tiny bit longer than the required distance so the stepper pushes down on it. With the weight of an entire stepper on it the tube will always seal perfectly.
Chep's gay ass printed washer trick can go rope, this is much better.
t. used this for almost 2 years

>>2428309
im counting down the days till I am. I want to get whatever the meta will be after new year. whats the state of hte art resin for doing handgun frames?

>>2428372
IDK bro, I get great quality and adhesion at 235C. But now you're got me curious about running it hotter.

>>2428421
were you pressing the PTFE down against the nozzle as you tightened the nozzle in?

Looking for advice for Resin Printing safety/setup.
I've been FDM printing for about 6-7 years now and finally got a resin printer. Right now my FDM lives in my office at a dedicated location so it's always ready to use. In my experience, if I don't have a dedicated space for something like this, I never use it as unpacking and setup time get in my way. Since I made a dedicated space, I use my printer nearly every week.
Now that I have a resin printer, I'm worried about the fumes and VOCs from the resin itself. The Anycubic I bought has no real seal between the plastic "hood" and the base, it just rests on it. Some examples of fume extraction rely on temporarily placing hoods over the machine while it's running, but the post processing seems like a mess and I'd rather not get resin and slop all over my office (Pic related).
My current idea is to take a small space in my garage and make a sort of "paint booth" style room with a bathroom vent to draw out any smells/fumes. Is this overkill? I have the space for it and I'm comfortable drilling another vent hole in the basement sill, That way I can move all of my 3d printing stuff down into this room and it will have a permanent "Place to live." I was going to make it in the style of a "greenhouse" with plastic walls around a wooden frame. Alternatively, I could just set up the printer in my garage when I want to use it, and then pack it away when done, but again this would result in me having to unpack/repack the entire station every time I want to print.

What setups do you guys have for 3d printing with resin? Any tips? Is being afraid of fumes just a meme?

>>2428489
Alternatively, I've heard the plant based "Eco Resins" are a lot less toxic but who knows if that's true, or I could put a small air purifier in the room instead of building a dedicated "Paint booth" but I'm not sure how good those are at removing VOC.

What's the best ender 3 hevo revera mount and fan duct?

Anyone want an AcrylOreo?

>>2428456
I've got an ABS i run that's that ultra pure high quality primo shit that i run at 270

Best way to seal a print?
Wanna incorporate some liquid cooling (water or mineral oil) in a part I'm printing, need some sort of gsket for the seams

>>2428489
>>2428497
100% make a vented hood, and process the prints outside your house, the smell is gross as shit, and the resin itself is an absolute PAIN to remove from benches when its a liquid, and down right impossible when it sets in the sunhine.

eco resin is "better" smelling, but like how the smell of your own fart isn't as bad as someone elses fart, its still toxic resin fumes/a fart.

>>2428623
TPU printed gasket

>>2428566
At least it stays crunchy in milk

>>2428631
Thanks, that's what I figured. I think I'm going to make a dedicated "Gross room" in my basement for this shit + spraypainting indoors.

Why doesn't anyone make HIPS filament for practical anymore? It's just black or natural color because it's meant to be dissolved as a support. It has decent mechanical properties that makes it a more flexible alternative to ABS.

>>2428489
>What setups do you guys have for 3d printing with resin
I built a cabinet that vents out the window

>>2428616
>I've got an ABS i run that's that ultra pure high quality primo shit that i run at 270

Weird. I print high speed ABS at 230. What failures did you encounter that made you raise it so high?

>>2428744
if how many walls are needed if i need to print an object at 100% infill?

>>2428749
All of them.

>>2428789
the wall line count?

>>2428749
>>2428790
Actually, you just jack up the bottom layers to some really high number

Le eiffel tower printed on my Ratrig Minion

Would this make a good starter printer for $100?

>Creality Ender-3. the 4.2.2 board. Running UFW 2. Magnetic and original beds. Upgraded springs and an authentic Bond Tech BMG extruder. Brand New creality hotend installed. Comes with extra Capricorn Bowden tubing and couplers, nozzles, heater block covers, 2 rolls of filament.

>>2423398
Bros how do I fix these imperfections with the line going across horizontally all around at the bottom and top in the red square?

Is my Z-axis fucked or something? I did install a 2nd z-axis motor on my Enders v2 Creality.

>>2423398
Bros how do I fix these imperfections with the line going across horizontally all around at the bottom and top in the red square?

Is my Z-axis fucked or something? I did install a 2nd z-axis motor on my Enders v2 Creality.

>>2423398
thanks to whomever who made the petg suggestion, it is a little bit stringy but a bit more afterwork doesnt compare to UV resistance and higher strenght. It still prints well without warping on my modded ender 3 v2 lol

My other standard printing thing is e-pla from esun. Which is way more flexible and less cracking than regular pla.

>>2428841
Looks nice without the globohomo art painted underneath. Real shame that there's a fence around it now.

>>2428717
Pigment your own.

>>2428847
The frame is junk, but the rest is worth the money.

>>2428841
wow that's sharp. nice anon.

>>2428919
I have neither the space nor the resources to make my own filament

>>2428851
>Enders v2 Creality
roller printers are going to do this unless you reinforce them and keep them very clean. this is why slider 3d printers are better.

>>2428851
those imperfections are just part of printing a calibration cube, if you go in your slicer you'll see that top one is on the same layer where the pattern for the Z starts

>>2428851
You can't do anything about those artifacts in FDM printing. It's caused when some layers have less support than others which allows it to shrink ever so slightly more than other layers. Google Benchy hull line.

>>2428851
Get a spider coupling. It helps reduce the inconsistencies of chinese leadscrews transferring into the Z-axis.

>>2428851
Post gcode.
https://cockfile.com/

>>2428851
Lube your z screw with some lithium grease.
I used the blue marine kind on my ender 3 and I have no more Z lines

>>2428744
Wasnt meltin' good lower than that.
It's completely different from any other ABSs ive used, its quite flexible.
It's made by a dude that runs his own print shop for ABS car parts he just sells the filament since he makes it anyway, helps offset costs.

>>2429137
https://a.cockfile.com/wdwzXi.gcode

>>2429320
So grease would help? Why lithium grease? Isn't that shit inside batteries?

>>2429134
>>2429132
>>2429090
>>2429077

An extra note: The Z axis thing is sometimes random and changes but the top line stays. I'm more worried about it weakening the structure as the line looks like there is less filament.

If I were to make a business would this be legible for selling?

>>2429134
Spider coupling 3D printed in plastic be sufficient? Or would a metal one inserted in the rod holding be better?

>>2429497
>Why lithium grease?
It's just a nice general purpose tacky grease. It stays adhered to whatever you place it on.
Some peeps use white lithium grease but the grease you find in the automotive section of a store is pretty much the same thing

>>2429497
>>2428851
I don't see anything in your gcode that might be messing with you, but do note that the faint speed changes do seem to line up with the imperfections.
What material and what temperature are you printing? If it's the creality PLA, try something else. Four top layers seems a bit excessive at a 0.2mm layer height and you really don't need rafts these days (look into brims), but that's besides the point.
200C might be a bit low, though it depends on the hotend and material that you're printing with. If it's just regular pla, try using the automatic cooling and bringing your temperatures up to 205-210C. Note that the issue correlates with slight changes in speed per your gcode. Bringing your temperatures up might help things flow a bit better and lay down plastic without as much internal stress.
Yet a third thing you could try is calibrating your e-steps on your extruder. This is best done over the longest length you can measure reliably, so for most calipers something like 125mm is good enough.
https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/ and run a PID tune.
I'd start by just raising the temperatures. Report back with what you've tried and your results.

>>2429530
>faint speed changes
most of my print is 25mm/s, what speed in particular you think are causing it?

>Four top layers seems a bit excessive at a 0.2mm layer height

>automatic cooling

Where are the settings in ultimaker cura to adjust these?

Yes I am using PLA and have already performed the extruder calibrations (unless I fucked it up more)

One other question is how you able to view this?

I will try and raise the temperatures for now and get back

>>2429546
looks like hes using the prusaslicer gcode viewer, and also just opening the gcode in a text editor.

>>2429546
I prusa slicer, and in this case I'm using the prusa slicer gcode viewer. I also opened up the gcode file in a text editor to check temperatures you intend to print at. A gcode file is really a .txt with a different extension.
Cura has a different viewer after you slice it, haven't used cura since 2015 so I couldn't really tell you given all the changes. I switched off it after they started hiding useful features behind multiple click-through menus. It might be under layer view or something like that. that will show you your layers as they will be printed.
Regarding the PLA, what pla are you using? You can adjust nozzle temperatures and cooling from the same menu, you might just have to dig a bit deeper. Chances are you have auto cooling enabled and just need to bring your nozzle temps up.
Try the print again at 210C. Chang nothing, besides possibly using a brim instead of a raft (you don't really need them for PLA).
Another thing to consider, and this is going to get a bit meta, is that there is a variety of issues all which can cause the same or similar defects. Often even when well intended people just look at an image and give a solution without wanting to know more will send you down a rabbit hole to fix an issue that may not have been what's causing the present imperfections. While it could be all of the issues mentioned earlier, it's just throwing shit at the wall to see what sticks.
The bowline is an imperfection that is material dependent. Nylon and ABS? royal pain to get rid of. PLA, PETG? Shouldn't be there. Pic is abs.

>>2429566
Running it at 210C produced this result. A lot better in other areas, but this one line at the top just keeps showing (even more at 210C)

>>2429566
>what pla are you using?
Ender PLA filament 1.75mm diameter

>>2429499
You can get a pack for like 10 bucks on amazon

I was cleaning my build plate after getting wd40 on it and spilled about a quarter cup of iso

How much fumes does it take to actually get dangerously sick? Ive left the area but I felt a bit nauseous

>>2429614
If you aren't vomiting I wouldn't worry about it
Though you might have lost some brain cells

>>2429614
You mean isopropyl alcohol?

>>2429614
as long as you dont drink it, or literally sit there huffing the fumes from a bag, you're fine.
just open a window or take a 5 minute step outside.

>>2429616
>>2429626
>>2429629
He hasn't responded in a while. Maybe he went blind?

Does PLA stick better to the ender magnetic base plate or glass?

>>2429640
Yes.

>>2429596
understood. post gcode file for your 210C run, in the meantime try the boat. If the fault happens at roughly the same height from your buildplate the problem is mechanical, but just assuming that's where the top layers of the Z start and it looks like filament might be clinging onto the nozzle.
Try the boat at 205C. This is to let us know if the issue comes from the slicer, or a mechanical issue with your printer.

>>2429640
If you're having issues with adhesion of PLA the surface you're printing on is not the issue. Level your bed properly. Do babystep adjustments if necessary when printing your first layer.

>>2429745
https://a.cockfile.com/wExQSK.gcode
I just changed the temperature nothing much.

Where can I get the boat test print?

>>2429757
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622

>>2429746
>the surface you're printing on is not the issue.
That is, assuming your surface is free of oils and contaminants. Clean your glass bed anon and do not touch it with your grubby fingers again.

>>2429746
I've leveled the bed using a feeler gauge. May have to do the babystep thing. The problem only happened on a single print trying to do a very tight circle on the first layer. Might have to slow down the feed speed during that layer. I'm still figuring out things.

>>2429793
I'm using a mag base atm and clean it with windex. Going to cut a piece of glass and try it later.

>>2430019
>very tight circle on the first layer.
Just use a brim.

>>2430020
brim was also too tight and didn't stick.

>>2430028
>brim was also too tight and didn't stick.
What?

New thread:
>>2430095

Any decent alternatives to the Raspberry Pi to run Octoprint?
Can't find a RPi anywhere, and there's dozens of other SBCs available - just want one I can flash Octoprint onto and run with no issues.

>>2430836
An older android phone like a LGv30 or a newer cheaper phone can do it by itself, there's a youtube video on it by CNC kitchen or someone else can't remember but yeah it's not difficult.