/diy/ - Do It Yourself

have you taken the sandpill yet

>>2418617
Oh fuck yeah, I love having sand fall out of my 3D printer.

>>2418617
>the virgin aluminum extrusion frame vs. the chad tailor-made all-metal frame

plebs

>manage to avoid pla for years, using petg for general stuff and lately getting into more and more specialized filaments
>amazon sends me a roll of pla by mistake and tells me I can keep it
>try it
>it's garbage in every way and in no way fit for anything remotely structural
>and it's more expensive than petg
what's the catch

>>2418672
PLA is """"compostable""""

>>2418672
the "catch" is that it prints great with low end printers that don't have direct drive extruders, enclosures, all metal hotends or anything except the bare bones features. You can't say that for TPU, ABS, PETG, or a lot of other filaments... But I'm guessing that you already knew all that and you're just trying to swing your dick around

>>2418685
If a printer can print PLA it can print PETG. In fact, PETG can print with one less feature than PLA, it does not need a cooling fan on prints with no overhangs, in fact it prints better without that fan.

>>2418693
and you don't have to worry about getting plastic lung from PETG

>>2418672
Ok you have said your thing, you can go now.

I'm seeing conflicting information all over the place. Does the creality "carborundum" coated glass have a problem with PETG or no?

What's causing these lines in my print? Is it the filament or something else? The top part is what would have printed on the bottom, I'm just holding it upside down.

>>2418596
wtf i cant open the op image

>>2418738
OP here. Me neither. I dunno why. Maybe the original file was too big?

Finally a reason to use Prusaslicer. They updated to 2.5 today. They added the Cura auto wall width feature so now they don't make retarded gaps all over the place (dunno why you prusa tards never noticed it was missing).

Also they added a flowrate transition smoothing feature which helps with reducing banding.

>>2418732
Uhhh.. belt loose?

Any changes in flow causes that shit but yours looks like loose belt.

>>2418672
>no way fit for anything remotely structural

You'd have to go Nylon or Polycarbonate to get something stronger than PLA. Nobody FOSSCAD uses PETG.

>>2418761
>Uhhh.. belt loose?
>Any changes in flow causes that shit but yours looks like loose belt.
Which axis? It's an Anycubic Mega S if anyone else knows anything about these.

>>2418732
I've had filaments that just does this for no discernable reason.

>>2418732
the pic's kind of blurry so I can't tell which lines you specifically mean, if it's got random bulging on your layers try calibrating your nozzle and bed PID, fixed that instantly for me

>>2418724
Yes, it will work, but there is a risk that the PETG will stick so well to the glass that you'll have a tough time getting the print loose.

>>2418799
It's coated, though.

>>2418801
Why do people come here to ask questions if they already know the answer?

>>2418812
Bro, it's a coated glass plate. The question is if the PETG is going to rip up the coating.

Loose hotend making a woodgrain pattern on my buttstock.

>>2418819
LOL that wasn't a question you asked.

>>2418826
neat

>print 4 inch model no problem
>scale it to 6 inches
>supports and first layers after 20% fuck up and break off bits of plastic
Is there something I should be paying attention to if I scale a model to different sizes in the slicer?

So I guess I'm making like an original Game Boy that's powered by a tiny two stroke engine that's been converted to use the diesel cycle or something. Picrel, it's the power plant that attaches to the back of the Game Boy. I just printed the pulley that fits into the flywheel and transmits torque to the generator via a belt. Then I immediately snapped one of the legs off of it like a mega retard. Currently printing a replacement.
Captcha: V2SAD

Here's a simulation of what it'll look like

Cad of the version 1 power plant. In the version 2 I ended up making the DC motor (generator) mount in the bracket bigger so that it would fit, as well as beefing up a few features to make them stronger.

>>2418596
>When you make it to the OP image

>>2418874
>>2418875
>>2418880
Very cool and retarded, nice job, anon.

is marble pla good for painting on it? or is normal grey better?

>>2418826
it's a feature

>>2418921
Probably just straight grey is better, at least with my marble PLA there are some small chunks of dark plastic that stick out a tiny bit. Plus it costs more, so might as well use the cheaper stuff if you are just going to paint it.

>>2418672
I think you just got shit PLA

>>2418761
Neat, seems like plenty of useful things

>They added the Cura auto wall width feature
Fuck I just printed something with thin walls yesterday too

Lightning infil should be pretty great for figures, seam placement will be useful, pressure equaliser could help with my prusa mini

Have Cura ever ported features from Prusaslicer tho? or do they not want to because copyright etc?

>>2418874
>an original Game Boy that's powered by a tiny two stroke engine that's been converted to use the diesel cycle
interesting mad project anon, thanks for keeping 4chan interesting
y tho

>>2418967
>shit PLA
If anything most of my PETG is shit, I get my stuff local supplier with iffy quality, but it's hyper cheap so whatever, if a print fails because filament diameter decided to suddenly sine wave I just print another one.
That spool of Esun PLA retails for more than the "decent" stuff I used to print with, almost twice that of the filler I use now. I mean, it cost me nothing, and I still don't really want to print with it, I just want the nice plastic spool it's on at this point since PETG I get comes on cardboard spools, but trashing the filament goes against my principles so now I have a kilo of bright yellow purely decorative plastic to print trinkets out of.

>>2418819
It can. In posts where I've seen people actually using it (not just saying "use hairspray on the plain side bro"), they mention heating the bed up after the print to remove the finished parts.

Getting a PEI surface would be better.

Question
So I've had an ender 3 for about a year and use it as a tool to support other hobbies and fix stuff.
I constantly have various failed prints, jams, etc. No one problem is unusual or indicative of a defective printer, but they are constant, and they seem to be happening more frequently as time passes. I swear it worked fine for the first 6 months when I knew nothing but now each good print is a hard won victory. I suspect dust (it lives in the garage) and leftover damage from previous faults to be to be the cause.

If i get a better printer, say an artillery sidewinder x2, fed it only esun PLA, and kept it in the house under a cover this time, will I have a reliable tool, or will it also stop working every time the feng shui is wrong or it's tuesday?

>>2418596
Bros I want to make pet filament from bottles, I have everything but I need to figure out how to power the hot end, I'm yusing this one: https://www.ebay.it/itm/183988988343?hash=item2ad69929b7:g:~6wAAOSwpeBdnl1v

Mind you I know SHIT about electronic, and would prefer to not use an arduino

bonus if I can power it with a phone charger

pls halp, I don't want to pay anymore for filament

>>2419003
my brother in christ be more specific, 9/10 your buildplate is deformed, your springs are old an need to be replaced, your filament is humid and should be dried, or your extrusor is dirty af, after you exclude all of those you can consider buying another one

>>2419034
lmao you got 2/4 just from that.
Warped buildplate I just replaced with glass. dirty extrusor is known, It's still got some old plastic in areas i couldn't reach from when it printed up into itself a while ago. I assumed those were just the most recent and annoying symptoms.
I'll leave the extrusor in brake cleaner or something and see if that works.
thanks for the help.

>>2419049
also glue stick
or coca cola

>>2418967
>y tho

I bought a Bambu after I saw all the shilling on youtube. Am I a retard?
I've had an Anet A8 for years a now and after doing the whole tinkering thing forever I'm giving up it for something more reliable.

>>2419076
>I bought a Bambu after I saw all the shilling on youtube. Am I a retard?
Yes

>>2419003
oil your threads, tension your belts, dehumidify your filaments, level your bed, replace your worn nozzle
All of these get worse over time, i've had prints that failed because the weather changes

>>2419032
Check your printer power supply, you will ususally find that not all the output terminals are being used. Most likely you can make a switch and hook your hotend directly to the 12v output on your printer psu.

>>2419076
All the youtube reviews pointed out it has a lot of issues. I'm sure they'll be fixed later but still, you're signing yourself up to be a guinea pig which goes against wanting something reliable.

>>2419003
Post pics of your failures

>>2419108
I suppose that's true, I have been looking at all the good and bad reviews so I'm prepared for some of it.

>>2419110

The coconut rises

Also I've implemented an adjustable height for my side spool.
It's so simple. I just add a laptop every 5-7 hours

>>2419124
That infill is retarded bro

>>2419174
I would have not done infill at all except that part of the back is kinda dipped in and creates a floating piece because prusa slicer is fucking stupid
It adds an entire 12 hours to the print, and is otherwise unnecessary.

>>2419175
Lightning infill in Cura would have solved that. You're alright balls deep in that print though...

>>2419206
I had issues with cura constantly with models I designed and switched to pursaslicer and had zero issues immediately and have never had an issue so nah

>>2419175
You do know you can change the infill percentage at different layer heights? You could have just had low infill in the bottom and raised it once you get closer to the top.

>>2419231
Sir that is 5% infill, rectilinear
They are not even connected vertically, it prints one direction then next layer it prints the other.
It's whatever. If I end up printing 10 more I'll optimize it

As long I keep the mold in question within melting temperature of the filament and have a socket that accommodates the nozzle , am I able to turn the 3d printer into a psuedo-injection molder?

>>2419269
do you have a way of squeezing the plastic into the mold with a few dozen tons of pressure?

>>2419239
>rectilinear
hawt

>>2419271
Other than keeping air bubbles out, if I have those other things to compensate for lack of pressure why would I need it?

People now print large (1,6m) RC planes.

I'm considering printing a large RC boat in sections, gluing the sections together and coating the whole thing with epoxy. It needs to be fairly strong since I want to put some scientific equipment on it for surveying/water quality monitoring.

Other alternatives such as fibreglass or marine plywood/epoxy seem more risky than 3d printing which allows for less costly trial and error.

Is this feasible? What kind of printer should I buy? What kind of filament would give good results?

>>2419277

>printing out next soi cosplay piece
>why's this say it's gonna take so long? Oh well
>getting to about halfway through print when I notice it looks way smoother than usual
>check prusaslicer
>forgot to change layerheight back after doing a detail print
I'm actually retarded?

Just ordered a roll of CF-TPU, what am I in for?

>>2419124
damn dude you've been printing that for like a week already yeah?
>>2419174
not really, its gonna be strongk
>>2419175
I really like the lines infill, it has good coverage without being so redundant like grid, it usually tolerates lower infill (like 5%) better

>>2419314
There is zero reason why a large 3D printed RC boat wouldn't work unless you leave gaps in your joins. The plastic will probably be strong enough but epoxy will make it better.

PLA degrades quickly in UV radiation but is very easy to print with
You could use ABS, which is easy to post-process, but more difficult to print without a good printer
PETG is probably what you want, but I've never printed with it

All plastic filaments are hygroscopic to some degree so you will definitely want to coat the outside in epoxy, and if you're doing that, you might as well use PLA, coat it, then paint it so it's UV resistant

Prusa Mini is a solid beginner printer but the build volume is only 7" x 7" x 7"
A Creality printer is cheaper but is going to take more tinkering
If money isn't an object then look into large volume printers like Raise3D
There is a brand new printer on the market called the Bambu Lab X1 that by many accounts seems to be a massive leap forward for mid-range consumer printers but hasn't been around the block enough to make that opinion worth anything

what machine is literally better out of the box, ender 3 pro or 3 v2? i want to use it right away, not start tinkering with it before even opening the fucking box.

I'm trying to add a custom material to Cura (PLA 2) and need pointed to a tutorial on how to edit properties at a more advanced level than I'm getting from the Cura GUI. You can set stuff like temps and retract speed... but need to do stuff like:
> first layer cooling fan should be 30%, 100% for rest of print
> print speed 35-50% of normal speed for first layer
> layer height 90%
I've exported a .xml.fdm_material file with a script language. Assume I can edit that and add above parameters in Notepad and then load it...

>>2419373
well it took literally twice as long as it should've but at least this means less post processing
and goddamn I should've swapped to a textured sheet ages ago this is so much nicer than gluesticks or hair spray

>>2419442
Both are equally bad and both benefit a ton from careful set up. Imho, the Pro is better because of the magnetic build sheet. When the print is finished, you simply peel the build sheet from the print. The glass bed on the V2 can fuse too well, and tons of people have chipped up the glass from trying to scrape the print off.

>>2419314
watch rctestflight on youtube, hes made many a boat and prints lots of stuff

>>2419490
holy shit. okay 3 pro is it then.

also, is creality pla good? is sunlu better than creality pla? is the difference between pla and pla+ noticeable?

>>2419524
for the pla to pla+ difference it really depends on the brand
I can't speak to creality filament quality but my go-to for absolute budget is always overture/hatchbox

>>2419490
>Both are equally bad and both benefit a ton from careful set up
This. The Z axis lead screw on the 2 V2's I've seen were horrible. Both were fixed with shimming. Loose wheels on the bed were another.
>Pro is better because of the magnetic build sheet
Can't you use either bed on the bedplate?

>>2419516
Had to check Creality site... the V2 has several running fixes included on the Ender series. And I'm nearly positive you can run either bedplate if you want to replace glass with flex cover.
That saide I've used the glass plate on my V2 exclusively and never had a serious issue getting the PLA loose.

>>2419535
reee
so the v2 then?

>>2419556
The pro comes with that fleximag plate that works alright but you can get dents fairly easy if you aren't careful. Under the fleximag plate is a soft rubber material, idk what it's called i'm kinda retarded, and under that is the aluminum carriage. I have replaced the fleximag plate with a glass plate and the glass will stick to that rubber layer very well, so long as both the glass and rubber are clean. I even have to use the putty knife to separate them.

t. ender 3 pro v1.5 owner

>>2419524
I just stick with regular PLA so that I don't risk having to re-tune shit between different brands of PLA. Should still re-tune, but, I don't! With PLA+, who know what the fuck they are putting in it, and how much; could be Chinese chemical waste for all anyone knows. Same deal with ABS and ABS+, basically any time I see + I just think of it as HIV+ and continue on with my 3D printing career (and bigotry).

Why is the first layer of my print looking like this? It's kinda clumpy looking

>>2419462
support blocker section lets you set per model settings.

>>2419620
z offset might be too low
could also be some skin oil or something preventing adhesion and letting the extruded material clump up before sticking

>>2419175
In Prusa slicer you can add modifier objects that add infill only to the specific section of the print.
>>2419620
It's a shit picture but you have spots of no adhesion, the bright white ones, possibly oil/dirt on the plate, and the whole plate surface might be uneven causing the blobs along the edges. Could finetune Z to get slightly better results, but if your prints aren't deatching I wouldn't really worry about it. Clean the plate with alcohol if the surface material can handle it.

>>2419124
dude...
the infill...

>>2419435
>A Creality printer is cheaper but is going to take more tinkering
RCtestflight uses a Creality 3d. Is the Creality 3D CR-10S Pro likely to work well out of the box? I'd rather pay more and tinker less, designing a good boat is hard enough.

>Raise3D
It doesn't make sense to buy such a printer unless you will make use of it commercially. Would it be feasible to set up a side business with this? Take orders and print stuff for people.

> Bambu Lab X1
Its not clear how much this costs, it's some kind of kickstarter..

One worry with epoxy is whether the 3d printed hull will bend more than the epoxy can, causing cracks. Would PLA get soft in the sun?

>>2419492
It seems like his 3d-printed catamaran partially sunk for an unknown reason.
He then 3d printed molds for a fiberglass catamarans, put one of the molds in the sun to cure the fibreglass and the PLA melted leaving the hull with a pattern.

Still, this seems to have produced a decent boat. 3D printing molds seems to be feasible. I have previously tried to make molds out of foam and its hard to get the shape right.

>>2419556
I'd get the V2 and swap the build plate if needed.

>>2419478
>do not print directly on this surface
what did he mean by this?

>decide to give that yellow pla another chance
>print me the n1, all it's gonna do is look pretty and pla admittedly does do good details
>run it overnight since pla is supposedly a "just works" filament
>lmao I'll just break off halfway through print and leave you with half a plastic rocket and an unresponsive hot end that must've ran dry for at least 3 hours
yes thanks never printing with this garbage again
also what the fuck, everyone told me pla supports are the best and petg is supposed to be a bastard in that regard, but it's clearly the opposite

>>2419703
Taking engineering advice from /diy/ has got to be up there with taking financial advice from /biz/; this is jokes on here.

>>2418984
>>2419703
Well I have a bunch of esun PLA+ and they're mostly fine except for one roll of garbage that just breaks and clogs and warps. Probably been sitting in warehouse too long or too wet.

how much do you get a roll for? I cant find anywhere cheaper than $25/roll here in Australia

>>2419231
just use adaptive cubic like a normal person pls
>>2419224
lightning infil is getting ported to prusaslicer too so something to look forward to

>>2419556
V2 has silent drivers, so motors are less noisy. Can change fans for further noise reduction, and changing fans are easier than changing stepper drivers. Glass bed works fine for me, also tried G10 and works perfectly for PLA/PETG.

>>2419490
those are people printing PETG directly on the glass. Replace the glass with G10, problem solved.

>>2419705
eh there's some genius here too, just ignore the retards that starts sperging when someone spends extra money on printers that are not bottom of the barrel

>>2419711
>just ignore the retards that starts sperging when someone spends extra money on printers that are not bottom of the barrel
Reminds me of the guys in /drg/ who lose it when you say you put a $30 Crossfire receiver instead of the shitty $15 FrSky receiver on your 2" quadcopter so that it doesn't failsafe when you fly on the other side of your house. I think a lot of those anons killed themselves around the time BTC double topped though...

>>2419383
>CF-TPU
kek, wtf would this even be like? matte and very stiff? I almost feel like it'd be crunchy

>>2419778
maybe it's for chemical and abrasion resistance? That's my only guess.

>>2419383
anon?

>>2419696
it means I live on the edge
I had already popped it off the sheet before I thought to take a pic and it wouldn't stay balanced on the textured surface :^)

>>2419696
the heatbed is actually a PCB, you can literally see the traces

you could print on in, but if the nozzle ever scrapes then its RIP

Welp I ordered a Fysetc Voron 0.1 kit on Aliexpress.

Did I goof? I just hope that they cut the 1515 extrusions perfectly square. That's literally the only thing I care about.

What are the best mods or accessories for the 0.1? I already ordered a Bondtech LGX Lite and printed the modified toolhead because I heard the Mini Afterburner extruder is a piece of shit in comparison.

>>2419615
>pic
hot glue tribute when

>>2419978
That's disgusting. It's clearly a buttplug.

>>2419982
kinda thick

Why should I calibrate e-steps/flowrate on Enders? The default E-step is 93% and after 'calibrating' it I need to set my 'calibrated' flow to 93% instead. Why all this work just to end up where I started from.

Why are slicer devs so retarded with 100% infill. Oh you want me to fill this space 100%? Oh gee, I can vary the linewidth but fuck you I'm just going to intentionally leave a gap here.

It's like a life support system failing to deploy the oxygen masks because it detects it might not be able to so it doesn't even attempt it.. Nigga your bitch ass better fucking try.

Where's the 'DO IT FUCKING ANYWAYS' button?

Literally should be a checkbox on 'give up like a bitch because you can't do 100% accurate' and 'do your best'.

I wanna punch those mofos in the face because 'do your best' isn't the default option.

>>2420029
>>2420025
Id love to see the garbage nigger rigged work you think is "good enough" in your every day life

>>2420002
This is exactly why estep calibration on Ender is a bit of a meme. It's less of a pain in the anus to just leave esteps alone and leave flow at the default 100%. That said it may be beneficial to set filament types other than PLA to higher flows.

My e-step calibrated printers use 90% flow for PLA, 94% for PETG, and 96% for ABS.

>>2420032
Sure. You showcase your best at something and I'll show you my best at that.

>>2420032
Anything you can do I can do better. I can do anything better than (You). o/~

>>2419657
>Would PLA get soft in the sun
Absolutely, the internet is littered with stories of people leaving PLA prints in their car on hot days and coming back to a melted print

>>2420053
>melted print
Remind me again, what's the melting point of PLA?

>>2420054
you knew i was referring to the glass transition temp nibba

Good luck finding anyone that's successfully crossed the glass transition temp. They all go quiet once their pieces 'melt'.

>>2419778
>>2419788
It's for the hymen on the unlicensed RealDoll I'm printing.

>>2420055
Then why didn't you just say "glass transitioned print"?

>>2419129
Audible kek

>>2419962
If it's anything like my Formbot V2.4, then you are in for a good time as long as you don't try to rush things.

How for off are we from slicers that can process parametric models in addition to .stl garbage? I'm tired of looking at all these huge polygons now that I have a printer that doesn't just smooth them out with its own incompetence.

>>2418596
Quick question; anyone know how to get these things to work without needing to unplug and plug them back into the printer?
kinda counter intuitive when you get an extender to prevent you from needing to do a reach-around on your printer, only to have to do that every time you use it

Why can't I fix this shit? I restarted my printer, I restarted Octopi, what the fuck

>>2420183
either your bed is shit or you didn't adjust it correctly

>>2420089
Because when you come back to a goopy looking whatever that ain't what it used to be, you're going to be upset and not going to be saying, "Oh man, that's past the glass transition temperature and completely useless!" You're going to say it fucking melted.

>>2420089
You pedantic, semi-sentient anal fissure.

sorry for the basic gcode question

The purge strip area on the front left of my bed is messed up so I'm trying to adjust the start gcode so that the purge strip is on the front right side now. Here's what I have so far:

"M862.3 P "[printer_model]" ; printer model check
M862.1 P[nozzle_diameter] ; nozzle diameter check
M115 U3.2.3 ; tell printer latest fw version
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M204 S[machine_max_acceleration_extruding] T[machine_max_acceleration_retracting] ; MK2 firmware only supports the old M204 format
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G80 ; mesh bed leveling
G1 Z0.2 F720
G1 x250 Y-2 F1000 ; go outside print area
G92 E0
G1 X250 E9 F1000 ; intro line
G1 X150 E12.5 F1000 ; intro line
G92 E0"

Currently it does the bed leveling, quickly shoots home to 0,0, then slowly goes to the right side to make the purge strip before printing. How do I adjust the start code so that it quickly shoots to the front right (250,0) instead of the front left?

>>2420160
Mine works perfectly fine? So maybe it's a personal problem.

>>2420213
You can just say it "tee sub gee'd" for short. What are you, some kind of nerd?

>>2420234
Change the third from last F1000 to like F3000 to start, and then bump it up to like 6000 if your printer can take it. That's feedrate in mm/minute.
Does the purge line go across the front of the print? I.e. x-axis? You're really better taking the 2 "intro line" commands out and doing a skirt instead, in my opinion, less headaches.

>>2420183
pride month

Why do people still use Cura?

>>2420354
Lightning-infill

>>2418761
>Nobody FOSSCAD uses PETG.
I use PETG for the melting point and UV stability in vehciles. I'm not some reddit faggot tho.

>>2420354
Because SuperSlic3r is a disorganized nightmare of a UI.

>>2418874
are you theBackyardScientist on youTube?

>>2419129
true /diy/

>>2418874
>gas-powered Gameboy

>Anycubic Kobra Plus
Is it good? I'd get the Vyper but I need 10.75 inches+ in at least one axis (preferably Z axis)

It seems pretty good but I've never owned a printer before and would rather be bullied out of wasting $400+ than just outright buy it.

>>2420640
I wouldn't pay more than $200 for a bedslinger. If you need big volume, look into a CoreXY style printer, otherwise you are going to be hefting a big, stupid table around for every Y move, and taking up a huge amount of real estate to boot.

>>2420648
Any suggested ones?
I don't need big volume perse, it's just that I've got a CAD file I've made where one part has to be 10.75 inches long and can't be changed. I'm not planning to print bigger stuff later so as long as it's good for that one part is should be okay.

>>2420579
>>no way fit for anything remotely structural
Again, nobody uses PETG for guns because it's too weak. PLA+, PC or Nylon. No ABS, no ASA, no PETG, they're too weak.
>>2420357
Prusaslicer 2.5.0 has lightning-infill
>>2420354
>Why do people still use Cura?
The arachne linewidth algorithm. Until Prusaslicer 2.5.0 alpha which adds it, without it you'd have massive gaps in your prints unless you customized your model to only have widths that are a whole integer of a linewidth.
Even with the algorithm you'd end up with gaps if you use custom linewidths. Cura still handles it better but you need to fuck with the wall transition angle and decrease the minimum linewidth size.
>>2420213
>goopy looking
You don't know what you're talking about.

>>2420654
I really like the Voron 2.4 (but I'm biased because that's what I built), the Trident is also just as good, if not better in some respects even. You can get 250mm, 300mm, or 350mm, and it's just a fantastic printer, but you do need some mechanical aptitude and at least $1000 to build one. Otherwise, maybe look at the Ender 6 for a more budget friendly CoreXY.

>>2420654
what is the part? I have a monoprice mini delta and I'm using printed parts slid over aluminum stock for a monitor mount that needs to be over 4" wide.

you can also find a maker space or use any of the many services online. you might even know someone else with a printer, but don't ask them because they'll know your dildoes are tiny.

>>2420712
pics of your voron, I want to fap to some CoreXY

*slaps hood*
You can fit alot of autism in this bad boy.

>>2420692
I was not aware of the new alpha release of prusaslicer. Cura is finished.

>>2420727
Prusaslicer 2.5.0 alpha is on their github
https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases

>>2418761
>Nobody FOSSCAD uses PETG.
prusa's are literally made out of petg

>>2420727
still no tree supports on prusaslicer tho

>>2420354
Because I /like/ it.

>>2420692
3d printing guns is cool and all, since we all need to do our part to put a gun in the hands of every man, woman, and child, but honestly, you’d have to be absolutely retarded to trust your life to a FDM printed gun, and guns that aren’t trustworthy are just range toys at the most.

>>2420721
I feel like I post this too much here...

>>2420722
Sir, these are not meant for mass producing parts. Slow the fuck down.

>>2420793
An FDM gun is more like an easier way to aquire a normal gun from a UN walking loot box.

>>2420813
If you need to do that make IEDs instead like the big kids.

>>2420812
Hehe. Printer go wrrrrr

>>2420722
>>2420812
>>2420854
What am I looking at?

>>2420857
Mainsail Klipper interface showing the 4 printers in my dining room printing. I really hate copying stuff to SD card. If you drill down it shows more info on each job. Spent the weekend adding 2 more and getting the LCD's working with Klipper for 3 of them. (Ender v2 LCDs aren't supported so need to use diff ones).

Shit was occupying every flat surface in my kitchen so I moved it to diff room so I can have a functional kitchen again.. I like food.

>>2420854
Still room for two more printers on that screen. What a waste!

Who makes the best looking metallic PLA? Specifically bronze color, but I don't know if just the pigment or that shit that KVP has with actual bronze in it would look better, plus it's $109 (kek!) per kg, which is a metal shaving filled kg, so probably not very much material.

>>2420888
Get you some silk copper.


>>2420877
All the chinkshit has the same device ID, so it's literally mapped per USB port, which the raspberry pi host has 4.. God knows what happens if I use a hub. I'll leave the other printers off it for now.

>>2420721
Replica EM-2 rifle receiver (pic rel), I've looked at getting it made via MJF from a few different people but I know I'm going to have to iterate on it so $60+ per one isn't really affordable when I know I'm likely going to need at least two.
I'd break it down into two parts if I could but the fucking walls on the bastard are so thin (they have to be to maintain functionality) that there isn't really a way of doing it.

I'm trying to get a klipper macro going to effectively purge when changing filament with minimal waste extruding and retracting, and it's not doing anything. I'm guessing I don't need all those additional M83 relative positioning commands, and also thinking I should maybe replace the G4 dwell commands with M400 instead. I'd mess with it some more, but I have a print going right now, here is what I've got:

[gcode_macro CHUNDER]
gcode:
M83 G1 E25 F300
G4 P1000
M83 G1 E-5 F300
G4 P1000
M83 G1 E25 F300
G4 P1000
M83 G1 E-5 F300
G4 P1000
M83 G1 E25 F300
G4 P1000
M83 G1 E-5 F300

anyone have any ideas?

>>2420947
That looks really good

>>2420957
M83 prolly needs to be on its own line.

So I've watched some youtube videos but aside from trial and error, is there an easy way to figure out what settings to use on a print if none are provided? I'm talking about when it's a print on thingaverse in cases where they give you only the .2 number and that it has supports.

>>2421047
You just learn how it works the more you print. Not a good hobby for people who can only do something if they're given a complete tutorial and have someone holding their hand.

>>2420862
I manage a Prusa Mini+ farm and I am absolutely seething that I have to regularly update 20+ USB drives because Prusa STILL has yet to finish the wi-fi integration for these printers

>>2421122
>wifi
Sneakernet is bullshit.
These are enders hooked up with USB to a raspberry Pi. I'd think just basic octoprint would be good for you? Wifi would be nice tho, I only have one PC and to hell if I'd connect any 3d printers to it, lol.

>>2421047
Just have to get a feel for it. For .4mm nozzles, I usually do 2-4 walls depending on whether it is a decorative or structural piece, and then the number of floors and ceilings to match the wall thickness based on layer height. So, for two walls at .4mm line width, you'd want .8mm of floor and ceiling height, which is four layers at .2mm, but you can sometimes get away with two or three of you don't need much strength there. For more than two walls, again use your judgement, because floors and ceilings take a while to print.
For infill, usually 10-20% is fine but go up to 40% for more strength, and after that you might as well just go 100% infill if you really need strength. Different infill types have different line densities and structural strength though, so look at how your roof layers are supported to figure out what will work best.
Speed is based on what your hotend can flow, how effective your cooling is, what your motors can run at, and how stiff your frame is, you are going to spend a lot of time getting that tuned if you are looking to push it there.
There is a lot more, but it kinda just takes trial and error, so I hope this gives you a good starting point.

>>2421122
Shoulda bought a Klipper.

My nozzle and assembly aren't sufficiently heating up.

>>2421248
Did it used to, or did you change something?

>>2421122
What kind of stuff does your boss sell that requires 20 open-air printers?

>>2421255
I replaced a blown thermistor and upgraded the feeder. Checked the thermometer at both ends and it looks good.
Ender says the nozzle is at 200C but it's at 50C and doesn't feed.

>>2421263
If the thermister went bad, it might have taken the heater tube (or it's connections) with it. The faulty temp read can let your heater get too hot until something gives. I had that happen on a 4Max Pro when the heater and thermister worked loose from being heat cycled.

>>2421248
Bruh, not even a $10,000 FLIR is going to give you a semi-accurate 'touchless' reading on anything remotely shiney. Maybe if you spraypainted the whole hotend black with BBQ paint.

>>2421270
I could touch it with my hand
>>2421268
Thanks, sounds like a good excuse to upgrade that

>>2421263
sneed

>>2420785
I can afford it.

>>2420998
Managed to get it working with this:

[gcode_macro CHUNDER]
gcode:
M83 G1 E25 F300
G4 P500
G1 E-5 F300
G4 P500
G1 E15 F300
G4 P500
G1 E-5 F300
G4 P500
G1 E15 F300
G4 P500
G1 E-5 F300
G4 P500
G1 E15 F300
G4 P500
G1 E-5 F300
G4 P500
G1 E15 F300
M82

Now it binges and purges like an underwear model!

>>2421260
Many colors of small toy parts in batches too small to make injection molding worth it

>>2421122
use the ethernet cable ya dingus
those low cost ESP modules are 2.4GHz, they'll get a ton of interference and you'll just end up seething about unreliable connection.

hows the reliability of your farm tho? I heard mixed reports about their reliability, though mine has been decent so far

>>2421263
New thermister have the same coefficiant?

>>2421347
Cool. What kind of batch sizes are typical? Also, I can only imagine how much space you is needed for filament storage if you have 20 individual rolls of every color you use, plus extra stock on hand.

Currently, what are the best filaments on offer right now? I'm shopping for samples for testing and looking at some relatively exotic blends like PC-PBT, and I'm more looking for recommendations on specific offerings from filament producers. I've got a few Protopasta filaments on my list. I'm sticking to print temps below 260 for now because I'm still making decisions on my high temp system. I'll be building a dedicated machine for that.

>>2419314
is 120cm/4feet big enough?

>>2420234
It should be this

G28 ; home all axes
M117 Purge extruder
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
G1 X2 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
G1 X2 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
G1 X2 Y200.0 Z0.4 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
G1 X2 Y20 Z0.4 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
; G1 E27 F3000 ; retract filament 3mm
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
; done purging extruder
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface

do you need to do anything special with cleaning a textured sheet or does just spraying down with IPA and wiping work the same

>>2421478
Dish soap and warm water to really clean it, then IPA to get the last of the soap off, and then IPA in between the next few/several prints as a band-aid instead of actually cleaning it properly. After every couple of washings, I take some steel wool and scuff it up a bit afterwards to give it some more grip, but that is more important for the smooth side than the textured side. That's my method for my ABS plates.
For my PLA/PETG/TPU/Nylon plate, I just put on a layer of Stick Stick, and it's pretty much good forever.

>>2421350
Every other fucking day I am changing the 43.3mm PTFE tube on one of these bastards

Other than that, along with the sneakernet bullshit, the printers are very solid and reliable

>>2421299
tree supports saved my marriage

>>2421509
how is what you do profitable enough to pay you to do it, yet not profitable enough that you would just go do it yourself in a storage unit with your own printers?

>>2421535
Seriously, he should just get some of that Platinum Plan money and start his own operation.

>>2418617
For what purpose?

>>2421509
>43.3mm PTFE
Good thing I bought spares. What was the indication when I should replace them?

but seriously I'd look into wiring them via ethernet. Ethernet port is equally useless now, but when it isn't you'd have a lot more reliability vs wifi connection. Probably cheaper too, just get an old used 48-port switch.

If you're that pissed off I'd suggest octopi if not for raspis being unobtainium at the moment.

>>2421509
>>2421579
also I'd give them some credit since baremetal networking stack are a gigantic pain in the arse, I'd prefer sneakernet-ing 20 USB drives vs having to deal with them again.
>t. firmware engineer

Maybe get a bunch of 3m long USB A-A extension cables so all the USB drives you need to swap are bundled together in one place?

>>2421568
For YouTube views, dummy.

>>2421583
Of course, silly me.

Has anyone 3d-rpinted with clay here? How?

>>2421595
I just use tan ABS, looks just like clay spun on a wheel until you pick it up!

>>2420731
Those features are nice, can’t go back from Superslicer though.

>>2420811
It never occured to me that you could rice out a printer.

>>2419175
CUBIC. not rectilinear. CUBIC.

>>2421654
>rectilinear
enough with the straight-piping talk? this is a blue board ffs

>>2421667
Rectilinear? I barely knew 'er!

AM I THE ONLY ONE WITH STANDARDS. THIS IS POTATO.
Every comment on this guys latest print (with a Prusa) is 'Wow! So smooth!', 'Looks great!'.

>>2421535
Because the pieces are supplements/optional add-ons to the main product, which takes a far larger investment than some Prusa Minis

>>2421579
We got a couple meters of Capricorn tubing and cut them ourselves once the spares ran out. Heat creep causes those tubes to shrink just enough to let molten filament escape out around the tube just a little bit, but it's enough to cause significant underextrusion and eventually clogs. You can literally take the tube out and measure it with a micrometer and it will be shorter than 43.3mm

>>2421580
I've offered to set up some Octoprint instances but we're still holding out for Prusa Networking by Josef Prusa for Prusa printers

What's up with Esun PLA+ ? I can't push that stuff more than 185 without mad stringing (tried 5 different colors), everyone else claims they do 205 up to 230.
Polymaker Pro the manufacturer suggests 210 and I only have to go down to 205 to avoid stringing. Cranked my retraction up but it didn't make any diff. I'd have thought the all PLA+'s should go above 200C so makes me think somethings wrong but *all* my printers are like that with it.

>>2421790
I have no fucking clue. I have two rolls of it. I print them at 220.

>>2421790
Is your thermister loose?

>>2421607
Yes, you can! It even has the undercarriage glow.

>>2421790
What color? My white PLA+ strings but my black doesn't.

>>2421786
Most of those people are weird gun nut types. Don't count on them having many braincells.

>>2420259
in reading the reviews on amazon, it seems like there's a number of people having the same issue with various models of printer
it works, but you need to unplug and plug it back in or power cycle the printer for it to refresh with a new SD card

>>2421790
If you have multiple printers doing the same maybe it's a bad batch or it got some moisture in. I would try sticking those rolls in the dehydrator for a bit

>>2419373
third print where I have only caught this halfway through
I'm used to my other printer having to print PETG at a snail's pace so it doesn't cross my mind when I see a 4 day print on something medium sized on this
but why the fuck is prusaslicer reverting to .1mm every time I open it and not saving my settings at .2mm layer height when it says it does

Anyone else running an Orbiter extruder?
I just got the filament sensor but I’m not sure how to wire it. The skr mini has 3 pins for a filament sensor but this thing has 4 wires.

>200mm^3 corexy

Thoughts? Why didn't they at least make it 235mm so that it at least matches the build volume of an Ender 3.

MY ENDER 3 V2 IS A PIECE OF SHIT SELL ME ON THE PRUSA I3

>>2422046
works great. Ratrig, voron, hevort all have proven out corexy ad nauseum. You don't have to do 200mm^3 if you don't want to. Any of these you can customize your build volume.

>>2422050
>many such cases
what exactly is shit about it that you think a prusa will fix?

>>2422050
What’s the problemo mate

Whats the best way to find a local 3d printing place? Is there like a site that aggregates these things?

>>2422094
Literally just buy an ender.

>>2421953
That not really it, it's more that they're new to 3d printing. So any print that turns out functioning "looks great".

>>2421953
This is a Christian Nazi Gun Nut website, go somewhere else with your cucked anime atheism.

>>2422103
Im only looking to print a single item one time

All the KVP ABS I have used is excellent, except for Industrial Grey color. Under extrudes, poor overhang layer adhesion, bone texture surface finish... It reminds me of chewing gum that's been chewed too long, compared to the fresh Starburst consistency of all the other colors. What are they putting in this shit, metal shavings?

>>2421786
>>2421953
looks great to me desu. if you want form over function a resin printer, they're literally made for that

>>2421788
Thanks mate I'll check that tube on ocassion. Maybe get a raspi and trial octoprint anyways, you might find more useful functionality. I double prusa connect will ever be as feature complete as octoprint.

>>2422180
Fuck you and fuck the Nazis.

>>2421786
this is mostly just minor ringing, it's still pretty smooth. It's probably due to a shitty chinese motor like LDO stepper motors, which have been known to have issues. It's probably not worth a better motor and other trouble shooting

>>2422257
Why all the cope?

>>2421786
The sources of that type of pattern are numerous and difficult to track down. Doesn't affect jack shit on your part.

Speaking of ringing, do the printers get bolted to the paving stones or do people just sit them on top of them. Should I ditch the squash feet and go back to the stock feet? None of the tables/floors are flat here so the squash feet were kinda eating up some of the slop but a paving stone might be flatter. I moved everything onto lack tables from previously my kitchen counters (I think they're pretty flat but need to shim the feet).
I fucking hate PEI or whatever those plastic mag sheets are. Glass gang 4 life. Every tall print just gets knocked over and it's impossible to clean. Shit stabs you under the fingernail when you go to scrape the skirt/purge line off. I'd have thought the lighter weight would help with ringing or whatever but I didn't notice any improvements. It makes a shitty bottom surface too that's usually white, but hitting PLA with a lighter turns the white back to the PLAs actual color.
>>2422257
>It's probably due to a shitty chinese motor like LDO stepper motors
That bad of ringing on a Prusa tho. I have two identical Ender v2's (same board, support braces, squash ball feet, silicone spacers, klipper resonance tuned with probe). One does ringing bad the other doesn't. The one with the hot motors makes the bad ringing. They even sound diff so I wouldn't doubt that the steppers are actually diff (or something in stepper driver path).
>>2422317
Yeahhh. Doesn't affect anything. Primary reason why I run at 25 outer wall speed tho.
-
I finally managed to get ringing gone on one of my Ender v2's, the Ender 3 didn't have it at all to begin with.

>>2421968
>>2421827
I run Klipper on all of them. Maybe Klipper has a bad profile for the Thermistor and is translating the ADC values wrong?

Filaments not wet, I dry/vacuum bag and monitor it religiously and re-measured just in case. 4 diff printers are throwing a fit if I do anything more than 180C with Esun PLA+. Even cranked the retraction up 50% more (8mm total). I still get a bit of stringing at 180C but the increased retraction helped. Just odd that 4 diff printers need 25C less than everyone else.
Captcha HPV Sag

>change filament color
>calibrate flow rate
>suddenly all kinds of issues
>blobbing
>not sticking to bed
>weak prints (when it actually prints), layers separating
>zits all over
>change back to black or gray filament
>all is good again

once you go black...

>>2422341
>That bad of ringing on a Prusa tho
Prusa uses LDO motors. They're known to be mediocre chinese junk

>>2421607
brb gotta go print a spoiler out of transparent petg, stick rgb leds into it and post it atop the top extrusion

>>2418596
Resin printing is so much more satisfying than FDM

>>2422418
Only if you are a faggot.

>>2422423
>you’re a faggot if you like high quality detail
Explain

>>2422426
We know what you are using those smooth surfaces for. You are not the first anon here with a dragon dildo fetish.

>>2422427
Actually I pretty much have only printed miniatures for ttrpg

>>2422418
How do you deal with supports? I can never get clean breaks, especially with heavy supports.

>>2422429
I use light supports and have never had any problems and they come off like butter

>>2422408
>mediocre chinese junk
Is there a fine Chinese junk you would recommend?

>>2422407
Did you try drying the shitty one?

>>2422448
MOONS

>>2422436
Have you printed anything larger than those?

>>2422460
>MOONS
You think there's a dime's worth of difference? You think they don't manufacture for each other?

>>2422466
If they do LDO gets the B-grade rejects. The voron community knows it well. Moons motors don't have the same issues LDO motors do

>>2422468
The only thing I'm finding is replacing LDO with Moons of higher specs, can't find anyone trying higher spec LDO or any non-china motors as a replacement.

Is making money selling 3d printed products feasable anymore? I've been interesting in experimenting with working for myself that way.

>>2422463
Dragon, demogorgon (d&d) and a dice tower

>>2422479
how big were they and did you still only use light supports?

Pretty sure Klipper uses the wrong Thermistor definition for most printers. Easily 20-40C degrees error by picking the wrong one. Shit fucking sucks because they're retarded and they all use ones 'calibrated' to be 100k at room temp, so you won't notice the 'error' until the stuff is above 200C or so.

>>2422485
They were multi part pieces and the dragon had pre supported files, the demogorgon used light supports but also was multi parted and the tower used no supports… anything I think I’ll need stronger supports I’ve used medium and nothing more than that.
Maybe I’m just lucky idk

>>2422478
I hasnt been feasible in 5 years

>>2422485
Iirc I used light supports on these chonky boys printed solid and had no issues

>>2422478
I've been crunching the numbers and trying to find an in, and basically printers have become so common now that even the poorest street shitter can undercut the sub-minimum wage that you will be making with a machine.
The only way around that low rate per hour is to have multiple machines (good luck getting enough customers though, without a webdev), or an extremely expensive industrial machine that can do things not possible with a consumer printer, or find some sort of niche where you can design and produce parts to be sold directly to the consumer while somehow steering clear of infringing on someone's IP or having your IP stolen by aforementioned street shitters.
In short, there is not hope for mechanically minded White men in the modern world, every avenue leading to a decent life has been deliberately removed by vindictive kikes in the hopes of reducing both our numbers and wages.
I think we all know what happens next, considering it has happened 112 times already.

>>2422246
someones ideology shouldn't be making you this butthurt

>>2422493
It's panic.

>>2422478
its possible, but only if you get returning customers that want batches of special parts made and pays well
and while printers are dirt cheap nowadays and you'd think they'd just make the parts themselves, many simply do not have the time, know-how, or interest to get into it, like boomers who calls their grandkids to set the clock on their still running VCR

>>2422492
Oy vey

>>2421786
what's your slicer settings?
I used cura and have gotten slightly better than that

>>2422426
If you're not using resin printers because they're more dimensionally accurate for prototype parts, you're using them for reddit purposes like faggoty trinkets.

>>2422478
Only if you're providing within a niche.
Even then you'll be able to charge more for aluminum parts you mill on a $300 3018 router. I make parts for airsofters sometimes.

>>2422606
Lol FDM is trash
The best thing I ever did was get a resin printer regardless of reason

>>2422611
There are no resins with impact resistance on par with Nylon. Enjoy your anime figures.

>>2422612
Why am I throwing shit at the wall?

>>2422615
Yeah im sure any mechanical device you print out of resin wont completely wear out after a few months

oh wait no thats whats always happens unless you have a fucking formlabs printer

>>2422615
>I don't make things I just print shitty blender statues somebody else modelled
Fixed

>>2422623
I’ve already said I mostly print miniatures for ttrpg
It’s the reason I purchased it

Only chads who can into parametric CAD software are allowed to respond to this post.

>>2422628
You can’t stop me.
I’m going to continue printing trinkets and miniatures

>>2422627
That's nice, FDM is for engineering, and producing functional items though, which is what men are interested in.

>>2422638
Nobody is stopping you, kid. We are just making fun of you.

>>2422628
My Solidworks license is is what keeps me from 3d printing a gun and putting it in my mouth.

>>2422628
ITT: CAD-deficient resinfags coping at FDMchads

>>2422649
FDM is trash
Literal garbage

>>2422664
What's that
I can't hear your shitty resins over the sound of actually having tensile and shear strength worth a fuck

>>2422667
You don’t need to hear text, what are you on about?

>>2421263
>>2421357
>>2422373
>>2422488

You're right, "100k" is just half the info needed for a new thermister. You also need either the "beta" or three pairs of temperature/resistance for Klipper to figure out the Steinhart-Hart coefficients. Get it wrong and your temps will be all wacky.
The numbers you need should come from the seller of the thermister.
https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/docs/Config_Reference.md#thermistor

>>2422478
sell unregistered gun parts on the darkweb to retards for massive monies

>>2422478
>s making money selling 3d printed products feasable anymore?
Only if you're near a university and advertise "engineering materials" like memefiber filled abs/pla/nylon/petg with the respective disolvable support interfaces.
If you've worked out the kinks in maintaining a ~70C chamber for things like nylon, ultem, ppsu, hips, etc then you can charge a premium.
Basically its an exercise in staying a step above whatever the current ender 3 is capable of.

>>2422720
>Basically its an exercise in staying a step above whatever the current ender 3 is capable of.
$60 in parts and an Ender 3 can print basically any widely available filament. Most commonly this means carbon fiber nylon at 300 degrees. $80 and you're printing fucking PEEK.
The difficulty of printing engineering filaments is highly overstated. It's literally just getting your hands on an all metal hotend, a thermocouple and an enclosure. Which can be a $20 canvas tent. Tards are just scared of bricking their firmware.

>>2418596
So what filament has good dimensional stability but isn't PLA?
Carbon fiber PETG maybe?

I have some things I want to print that is going to be used indoors but even indoors I hear PLA just gets brittle with age no matter what you do.

I'm trying to use mesh bed leveling with marlin, but I'm having an issue. I start with it manually leveled, but when I go through the mesh bed leveling process, it slams the nozzle into the bed. It's like it forgets the z adjustment or something.

>>2422732
PLA+ is the standard for gats. PETG is the go-to for everyone else, but isn't used for guns so take what you will from that. HTPLA is also good. Fiber additives aren't really worth it until you get to PA6CF or other nylons but there's all sorts of 'boutique' blends out there of other stuff that you just have to look up independent tests and comparisons for. Protopasta has some interesting shit I'm gonna be sampling myself.
But yeah in general PETG and PLA+ are the two most common filaments for shit people actually expect to last a while. I've got 2+ year old PLA+ prints still serving purposes.

>>2422745
Physically move your z-stop.

>>2422732
PETG is nice, but also look into ASA for UV resistance. Carbon fiber filaments are still going to get creep in situations where the non-carbon filaments are going to get it (and they aren't even that much stronger overall), the only real advantages they give are higher initial stiffness, and sometimes easier printability (less warping, but no guarantees).
Really just ABS is probably fine for just about everything, you will probably not be using the same 3d printed item outdoors for 10 years anyways.

>>2422748
Wouldn't that undo the mesh leveling adjustment?

>>2422751
>and sometimes easier printability (less warping, but no guarantees).
Guy I know swears by carbon fiber nylon even when not doing gun stuff because it warps so much less than regular nylon. It's definitely a thing.
>>2422753
Not if you do it BEFORE doing the levelling.

How much knwoledge/text/resources to run a 3d printinf business to the bones, and get somw legit 6 digit income annually?
Where and how much knowledge do i need? I am trying to run 3d printing as my parents want(like) but i m struggling and it s completely out of my depth or pasion but i m still tryinf to give it my all(because my passion projects all dont make money anyway...)

Pls Help me with the direction

>>2422770
What makes you think a single person can dethrone Shapeways
Can you even afford a laser sintering printer

>>2422776
Mmmhmmmm, shapeways has 8 letters so thats like 2 more than 6 digit. Ah sorry, 9. 9 letters.

>>2422770
Have you learned CAD like I told you before? That art degree is not going to cut it here.

>>2422781
Ok, learn cad, sure. Like what? House planning? No wait you havent. Which CAD should i use? There are libre ones and proprietaries, but im not sure what yer going for.

>>2422761
Okay, but that's what I've been doing. I adjust the physical z stop, manually level it, then do the mesh leveling by bringing the nozzle to the plate for each point. Then it lowers the nozzle into the bed every time. I don't get it.

>>2422787
Fusion 360 or FreeCAD is what you want for parametric, and Blender if you think there are more than two genders. You can't afford Solidworks.

>>2422791
Ha. What do i do with em though, and all those genders. Kinda out of clue except the 6 digit average middle class household seem live on. Also the numbers needed to move in to australia or something.

Like, how good should i be on those tools

>>2422792
Six figures is probably not happening, but if you want a side hustle figure out what people want and print that. I'm not going to figure that out for you, because I'm trying to find a niche myself.
As for CAD, make a shim for something, then a holder for something, then just get more advanced from there and explore all the modeling features. This is a lifetime worth of learning though, so it's not going to happen real fast, and keep in mind that you are in competition with thousands and thousands of people that got financially raped on an engineering degree and are hungry for scraps.

>>2422814
Hmmmm, do i really have to find a niche?
Well back on CAD, am i supposed to make any money as i learn? Is there at least a definitive guideline on how good am i supposed to be at it?

>>2422815
You may never make money, see >>2422492

>>2422816
I suppose. My parents still want me to. And i got no other choice lel
How am i suppose to tell em?

>>2422814
Unironically, custom soap molds.

>>2422821
That's probably the best answer actually, and it will technically satisfy his parents.

>>2422728
>$20 tent
>50~75C enclosure.
You're retarded. Moreover, you either figure out motors outside of the enclosure or go with high temp motors. You also don't want a bed flinger for a passively heated enclosure. There's a massive delta between "being capable" and actually being profitable. You don't want failures with 100USD+/kg filament.

>>2422668
>he doesn't hear text
i bet you don't even see spoken words either

>>2422815
>>2422814
Here's an idea for practicing CAD at least: make a full detailed model like >>>/k/54301823 and >>>/k/54301845 then sell it to this anon >>>/k/54301908

>>2422883
>then sell it to this anon >>>/k/54301908
Nah. Sell it to the North Koreans as partial plans for the South Korean tanks.

Ree. "Wall thickness flow test" and superslicers "flat ironed piece" flow test give me wildly different results.
-Wall test gives me 10% too low flow for a production piece
-Flat piece test gives me 5% too low for a production piece.
I can't find a flowrate that satisfies everything :( . I guess I should stick with superslicers flat piece test results but it'd be nice to not have wall thickness all fucked up when I do that. I've done 4x varieties of it with multiple slicers and models.

>>2422606
Non-industrial resin printers are mostly worse at dimensional accuracy than fdm. Large structures tend to warp and small imbalances in the LCD backlight lead some areas to bulge slightly from overexposure

>>2422628
It's great, especially when you don't pay for it

>>2422606
you have never printed anything practical that was worth the effort and you never will

>>2420692
>nobody uses PETG for guns because it's too weak
That's like saying "aluminium is shit, nobody uses alu in rockets". Like, no shit, it's no titanium, but it's got good strength for its dirt cheap cost and it's reasonably easy to use, so it's a good general material that can be used in anything from beer cans to fighter planes.
I would trust PETG with the duty of being a gopro mount on my dirtbike. I would not trust PLA. A PLA+ mount would be more expensive than buying an unbranded chink mount so why bother.

>>2422606
>you're using them for reddit purposes like faggoty trinkets
I've ordered a resin printer to make anime figurines of characters either too obscure to get one or too old to have any still in print. I'm also learning to airbrush.

I still fucking hate magnet PEI beds. Managed to print 90% of a tall piece before it fell over from nozzle smacking it around. Made the piece hollow inside this time so there'd be less stuff for it to hit. I dunno why the hell people use this stuff instead of glass.\

>>2423127
I personally could never get anything to stick to the stock glass bed my ender came with, even with an inch of glue stick it was 60/40 fail/succeed on the first layer alone after releveling nonstop
the only thing I've learned with my PEI sheet is never try to print two tall things at the same time because it might knock one loose, but that's only happened once since upgrading to it

>>2423129
Needs to be like 60C before it'll stick, maybe 55. Also needs to be clean. If I run 50C it'll pop off during the print. Dirty bed it'll still stick but it'll lift up at the edges.

>>2423146
I work with PETG so my bed's always at 70C minimum, I tried so many methods and a couple overpriced adhesives to get it to adhere before trying a PEI sheet and having no real issues

>>2422606
congratulations on printing the cup holder you clipped onto your desk bro
meanwhile I'm out there printing shit that actually matters

Mesh is getting turned off. I think it does more harm than good on glass. I can see it varying the Z height during a layer but I can make a 20x20 mesh and it'll still squash the nozzle down so far that it can't even extrude for 1/4 of the bed. Tramming wizard is about the only useful part. My enders like to go full retard and shift the right side of the gantry up/down 1/2 mm randomly so it's nice to do a quick check on klipper before the next print.

Cheapass basic bitch Ender 3 has been the most reliable compared to the V2's. Z screw is silky smooth, the whole gantry goes up/down at the slightest touch, I haven't had to relevel the bed once, that shit stays within 0.005 mm every fucking time.

>>2423147
That's a good reason
>>2423208
Duck and his girlfriend have been coming by to swim in our manhole sized puddle.

>>2418596
How retarded would I be to print Pic related to attach it to my Box fan at home?
The box fan is loud as fuck, and I feel like more curved blades would be quieter, even it it lowers overall flow.
I work for Boeing so having a CFM style fan would also be cool.

>>2423263
Youtube fan showdown, go through the autistic contest, pick one that suits and scale it

>>2423282
We taking PC case fans or just 3d printed ones?

>>2423127
Have you tried printing with a brim?

>>2423263
That's not going to do much without the proper duct around it.

>>2423293
It's 3d printed fans + shrouds for a atandard PC sized fan. He does db and flow numbers.
Its user submitted fan designs

>>2423263
Even if it's no quieter, it would still be cool.

>>2423396
>>2423396
>>2423396
>>2423396
>>2423396
>>2423396

>>2423398
>>2423398
>>2423398
>>2423398