/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2350050
Hello federal employee

>>2350050
I tried to make fake silver nuggets from plumbing solder in middle school to scam my classmates after learning about alchemists and fake gold/silver from the past. $1 a nugget. Made enough for a 24-pack of soda.

Work finally calmed down so I had a chance to set up my induction furnace this weekend. Unfortunately the "copper tubing" I bought off Amazon was steel tubing coated in copper so I didn't have a chance to try optimizing coil design.
Certainly has limitations, but a hell of a lot more convenient than the propane forge when you can get away with it.

>>2350212
>Induction furnace
Didn't even know such things existed apart from industrial shit. Very interesting.

>>2350212
Pretty good.

>>2350212
The steel tubing manages? Not bad.

>>2350580
You can sorta make one with just 120V outlets and some carefully selected iron-slug transformers into copper tubes.

I am going to make babbit bearings from leftover scaps of solder and old lead acid batteries.

I'm in the process of building the infrastructure I need for casting. Just finished making a ball mill using my old washing machine motor and a 5 gallon bucket. I need to get some real friction tape and put in a tensioner but still sort of works right now. I plan to use it for grinding cat litter up than afterwards mixing with sand to make green sand.

>>2353442
If you want to be fancy you can turn some brands of cat litter into water glass to make sand molds the PATRICIAN way.

I made progress on my furnace for heat treatment. Cheap Amazon kit, firebricks, and old bed frame angle irons.

>>2350212
That's gonna play havoc with the internal magnetics
in a fun kind of way

>>2353442
what the hell is that wayne's bucket?

Are there any particular objections to using a portable forge setup, like one you could carry in a car if you don't have your own place to set up a smithy?

>>2356410
You need a good pounding spot. A lot of portable welding trucks have an anvil towing hitch to pound on and clamp for welding.

>>2350050
How do I get into metallurgy and such? Is there a babby's first smelter I should look into? I mostly just wanna melt down a bunch of the scrap I have cluttering my basement so I can make shitty little pirate coins and have a treasure horde instead.

>>2357047
Propane fired aluminum furnace made out of a 1gallon bucket lined with refactory cement.

>>2357081
I'm interested in this too. I wanna melt some cans and cast them into a pendant.
Is it expensive, overall?

>>2356759
I guess that is a good solution, however wouldn't it be cheaper to just make a homemade anvil stand or something that isn't too big?

>>2357299
https://concretedog.blogspot.com/2013/08/more-aluminium-melting-and-casting.html?m=1

Good website example.

>>2357470
Yeah, but think how heavy that shit is to pull in and out of a truck bed. Don't hurt your back.

>>2357081
>>2357730
So, let's say I have an old fire pit. The bottom is a bit rusted out, the cover is mesh metal. Could I coat all that with refractory cement to make a big coal forge/foundry maybe? How thick would the coating need to be?

>>2353442
I'm a great fan of luckygen1001.
https://www.youtube.com/user/luckygen1001/videos

Could this be carbide tearout? It's a 70hrc zmax skiving knife I made and spent like 4+ hours sharpening. 200x magnification, Brightfield.

Anyone have experience with metallurgy scopes care to comment on the quality of my image? I came upon a very nice epi scope I've been learning how to use.

Here's another image from a better spot same mag

And just for fun here is a look at the edge after no skiving, medium, and a couple hours of skiving. Carbon steel would have been unusable at this point, but the zmax held up like a champ working through about 3 wallets worth of leather.

left to right least to most wear.

I know the test is kinda of garbage because I didn't image the same spot, but I tried my best the use the 2 inch blade as evenly as possibly.

>>2350050
Why are there different symbols for the same "element", that's rather confusing

>>2358617
looks like a combination of multiple systems
the platonic elements don't exactly fit in well, to say nothing of the planets

What's a good budget foundry? Electrical preferably

>>2358216
For aluminum smelting? 3" to prevent cracking. 1" if you're willing to CONSTANTLY patch it.

>>2358749
???

>>2358604
Knife autists GET OUT REEEEEEEE!!!

Seriously, what does a perfect edge do for you? At 200x NONE of that matters. You are getting no benefit.if you want to be RETARDED get a silica polishing compound. It is like 0.03 microns and etches away the softer residual ferrite or retained austenite to expose more carbide. (Also your microscopy is perfectly fine)

>>2358865
>???
Yes?

>>2358885
An induction heater for casting? Forging? Heat treating? All the above? Be specific.

>>2358866
Well, a skiving knife is for skiving leather as the name implies. Skiving is a delicate task where an incredibly sharp edge makes the job much much easier and leather is very harsh on fine edges often needing stropping every 20 minutes or less.

The zmax I used has a super fine grain, very high hardness, and is jam packed with carbide, so I wanted to see just how sharp I could get it and how long it would last at that extreme sharpness.

It's funny you mention using silica polishing compound because I actually did basically that with my japanese natural stones. I think the carbide exposure is somewhat visible in images.

>>2358904
Ah, for casting

>>2358865
So if I wanted to smelt copper I'd want to go thicker right? like 5"?

>>2359043
I recommend it. Higher temps cause more problems that thicker layers will mitigate. Requires less often patching.

>>2358926
"Budget" and "Good"? Make one out of microwave transformers and copper fridge line fed with cooling water from a pond pump.

>>2358737
It’s because according to the theory of the universe these people worked under, everything in the universe has correspondences with “higher” elements like the stars, as well as “lower” elements like plants and animals. I think abstract concepts like numbers and shit is also on a plane that matches with this.

Anyway, the idea is that magic works best when you do it when all the different signs and stuff are in harmony. That’s why in movies they always have spells say shit like “Mix the herbs together with the ground up pyrite when it’s a full moon” or whatever. You couldn’t be a good alchemist without also being at least a competent astrologer, etc.

In case you’re wondering whether this sounds a lot like magecraft from the Fate VNs, yes, magecraft from Fate/Stay Night is based off this. Right down to the semen being a very potent substance part

>>2358906
Serious question, is it worth making your own, then? If you need it for leather, surely you’re already doing enough DIY’ing

>>2350050
This isn’t likely, OP. Alchemists were basically just scientists doing proto-chemistry before they had a theory of the world that made it make sense. Historians today view their main contribution as inventing a lot of the equipment and processes. Cleopatra the Alchemist (different person from the queen) is famous for inventing one of the earliest stills for separating liquids with different boiling points, for example.

>>2359392 (me)
Well, except perhaps in influencing people here to make their own chemistry equipment…

>>2359390
It's more of a test to see if the steel is a good fit for the task, so that I could possibly sell them. High quality leather tools are always super expensive, and this skiving knife would be no different.

I was trying to case harden a part with this powder shit I bought, but I don't think it worked very well. I wasn't able to turn the lights off because someone else was working in the shop with me so I don't know if it's because I mis-judged the temperature, or if it's because the flame I was using to heat it was too oxidizing and was cooking off any carbon I was putting into it. does anyone have any experience with that stuff? how do you judge forging temperatures while wearing shades so you don't go blind?

>>2359669
K type thermocouple or git gud. I use shades for forgewelding and I will briefly glance at the forge without them on to get a reference for when they are on. Keep your lighting consistent as you're figuring things out. As long as it isn't too bright you should be able to judge reasonably well with colors.

>>2359669
From what I've heard blue-colored sunglasses make it easier to judge the contrast, yellow make it harder.

>>2359336
>Higher temps cause more problems that thicker layers will mitigate. Requires less often patching.
What about that thermal wool stuff? I've seen a couple of diy builds that just use that and some sort of hardening agent. Could I put a layer of that down over the 3" of concrete to keep the build lighter? Or would it be a bad idea?

>>2359860
Soft layers outside hard layers, rule of thumb. But if you do have a lot of refractory wool and are willing to change it then you just need to "glue" layers of it together. No hard layer required except a good steel liner.

>>2359669
Time + Temp. The powder stuff takes a lot of time in a furnace at very high temps. If you try to wrap it in stainless foil and torch it you'll just waste gas and time.

>>2359884
it was the kind where you heat the part until it's glowing red and then dunk it in the powder and then torch it off

>>2359910
Seriously? Got a trade name so I can look it up?

>>2360126
the original was called kasenite but I guess they stopped selling it. I was using a substitute I bought from brownells.

>>2360194
Oh, I didn't know there would enough diffusion to do it without a furnace. Is your part small enough? I doubt it works for anything besides pins or trigger components.

The rules I follow for the larger part case hardening is: Clean the SHIT out of the part. Needs to be clean metal. No rust, no coating. Heat as quickly as possible in a reducing (fuel rich) flame. Get a SOLID coating of the power on all surfaces as quickly as possible. You want it to form a shell pretty much. Then heat with a reducing flame. And when you're ready to quench, because it has crap on it, you have to dunk it quick and agitate the shit out of the water to get a good quench.

Is a foundry and sand casting the first step into fabrication? Currently reading through Gingery's books. Machining seems so far away for me.
t. college rentoid with 0 tools and carpentry skill.

>>2358866
Lmao I remember a guy I worked with a lot in grad school was a knife autist. I'll never understand it - he thought buying hardened steel bar stock and grinding it into a knife was more fun than forging, heat treating, and then (less) grinding.
Between the two of us we managed to build a nice setup going though - there was an unused lab with a rolling mill and enough ventilation in it that I showed up one weekend and build a forge in it and he brought in all his grinders and belt sanders.
Anyways now I'll know if anyone that knows me is posting in this thread.

>>2360701
You'd be amazed how far you can get with soft cast metals and a handfile.

>>2361522
Thanks, I guess I will start from that. I have no idea where to get those sand.

>>2360701
Used machine tools aren't all that expensive. You'll spend way more time and effort following the Gingery method compared to buying a clapped out Bridgeport/Lathe and learning how to use them. The biggest hurdle to machinery isn't the cost, it's the space and facilities to use them, if you can afford the space the rest is easy.

Casting is a good compliment to fabrication skills, but I'd be looking in to machining, welding, bending, cutting (think precision bandsaw) capabilities first. Once you've got machining capabilities the utility of casting is significant, but prior to that it's mostly only good for art.

>>2361797
You can use plaster of paris for aluminum. For steel casting the recipe is really simple: Play sand/tube sand, charcoal dust, clay powder. Like 96% sand, 2% each other, wet until juuuust able to clump together. If you are really destitute you can make castings in dirt or literally used mud to make a mold.

>>2362293
Thank you crab.

Want to make a tool that is soft enough to be filed for sharpening. I have some old files I could use as stock. Instead of doing the whole process of normalizing, quenching, and tempering, I am thinking of just knocking down the hardness on it. At about what temperature and how long should it take to be file-soft while still hard? The stock is about 3/4, wide, a 1/8 thick.

>>2362632
Start at like 500 degrees and if that don't work keep upping it. You lose toughness after a certain point, so just be aware of that.

I BELIEVE that a lot of files are made out of something close enough to W2 steel that you could use a temper chart for it as a starting point.

>>2362636
Most ovens don't even go to 500.
At what rockwell hardness will steel have to be to be able to file it to shape? Search engine isn't showing or I am using wrong search term.

>>2362666
Nvm the broil option is probably 500-550

>>2362666
You can try for a purple to blue color using a blow torch on shiny steel. That should be roughly 500-600 degrees.

You can look at the hardness of files and shoot for like 5-10 points below that. I've never tried, so that's just my guess.

If you need to do a lot of shaping It's going to be a very slow process and wear out your files pretty quick. An angle grinder will do well for bulk shaping if you need to remove a lot metal.

>>2362669
Yeah, I can't find info on how hard files are generally, but a higher temperature than knives normally are should be fine I think. Supposedly they are 1095 or w1 mostly.
I am imagining that only using torch on the stock won't temper the core, whereas slow oven baking achieves a more even temper. I'm aiming for something like vintage saw hardness or slightly harder. It will be for shaping wood.

>>2362694
Saw plates are from high 40s to mid even high 50s.
I've filed hardened plane blade before, using a lot of pressure while clamped. Quite dangerous. If you are careless the file could skate.

I dont know, maybe question doesnt belong to here, but anyway, explain me this.
>anonymous dude from Europe (finland) wants to make a HAM radio antenna pole
>I tell him to get like a 20x20x1.5 mm or similar pipe, and say him it is like eur12 a 6 meters
>he tells me that shit is worth eur50 or more
>i double-checked prices in Europe, in Germany and Finland and shit is indeed eur50-60 for 6 meters
>checked US of A... Prices are more... normal. 3/4x3/4x16ga is 27 bucks on some random site
Like what the fuck?
Is steel that expensive in first world? Am i looking at wrong places?

>>2362843
Euro and aussie metals prices are insane. Most of it has to do with tarrifs to protect high-profit Euro metals. The USA still makes a LOT of structural shit domestically or has imported garbage laying around. So in Europe you can get aerospace stuff "cheap" but everything else is retard expensive. In the USA you can get any cheap steal but good luck finding some off-cut of good shit at a fair price.

I've been messing with a big wrought iron chainlink and the middle piece was a strange steel alloy. It was hard, brittle, and highly abrasion resistant, but when I put it in my forge it completely melted around 2300ish degrees.

It was magnetic.

Anyone have any ideas on what alloy it could be?

>>2363121
Why cant Europe make anything? Greenfaggots?

Making progress on my torch-welded exhaust project.
But damn, it takes time and decent preparation to get some evenly made welds.

>>2363409
Stole the chambered Design with multiple V's from flowmaster lol

>>2363318
Even worse: Bankers.

>>2363411
Not the worst looking. You're actually making a muffler with baffles! Better than most custom jobs already.

>>2362668
Update. I got to bluish almost purple with the oven and it's still too hard to file.
I tried the direct flame once to a bit beyond grey and the steel did not soften through the middle.

>>2363411
>>2363500
>>2363409
Finished the prototype. Must have been about 5-10 hours of trial and erroring - but now I'm familiar with the material and tools for the job. Shit even turned out to be gas tight. Sound is pretty good now - for a 8 valve 4-cylinder lmao.

Oxy-acetylene is god tier once you master it.

>>2350050
I want to make some useful shit out of some BeCu valves seats I have, how can I melt/work with BeCu without killing myself

>>2363698
You slow cooled it, correct? Some really good files are air-quenching grades and must be slowly cooled over at least an hour. Another issue is high-carbide files. Those carbides can't be annealed so it never goes below HRC50 or so.

>>2363789
Time to open a small business?

>>2363917
I don't think you can at home. Grinding it will probably kill you. Idk about casting, but beryllium is spooky stuff and the only other use I know ofbis incredibly expensive wrenches n shit that don't spark.

>>2363944
Hmmm, BeCu crucifix for banish those electric demons

>>2363922
I just let them cool naturally. Do air quenching steels not lose softness even if they are not heated to hardening temp?
I doubt they are special alloys. One is a nicholson, another has cast steel written, and one is blank.
I am thinking of trying the toast setting but I can't find information on how the temperature is. The broil setting only heats from the top. Or maybe just a stove fire since I can have a more even spread but low heat than a torch.

>>2363972
There's so many damn huge atoms in there you can get a hardening effect even eithout transforming the martensite to austenite.

If its just normal files its probably like a 1080 or something. In that case you just didn't get it hot enough. If you have a stove that burns gas... Try sand inside a bread loaf pan. I think standard stove burners can hit 550F after enough time without fucking around with flame focusing.

>>2364537
I just ended up using the stove to a light incandescence, a few times. The last pass I didn't bother slow cooling with gradually weaker flame. It is filed alright, but dulled the hack saw after cutting an inch and a half in from the upper corner down at a diagonal. Not sure if it was because it was not softened at the core or some other like the tip end naturally heating higher. I am guessing it's 1095.
Does steel actually harden at if quenched at lower temperature? Will there be a difference between low quenching a previously annealed steel and another previously hardened?

>>2365038
Theoretically for a plain carbon steel you must get above, like, 1250F? Austenite temperature. I do know that if you get it pretty hot and quench it you can get some slight hardening just from pinned dislocations and carbon solution strengthening. This is only lower carbon stuff in my experience.

In your case 1095 has permanent carbides that are still there. The base metal is softer but the carbides will dull a hack saw quick.

I want to make a mold for some silver and gold jewelry. I have this brick that I assume is fired clay. Could I use that without having it explode on me?

>>2365413
Preheat it to dry it out. I have a feeling you will only get one use out of it because the casting will stick to the brick and you'll need to smash it or it will stick and as the metal cools/shrinks it will crack the brick.

>>2365413
You can wash it with a thin layer of plaster of paris to help with surface smoothness and adhesion.

I'm welding 14 ga 304 sheet in a corner joint. I might need to hot bend the weld to the correct angle post weld as I don't want to cut and reweld. Can I run DCEP with a carbon electrode and no flux to heat the joint?

>>2367542
Yes, but I don't know the specifics. Be sure to do some test pieces. Don't blow up an actual unit to develop the technique needed.

>>2367552
>Don't blow up an actual unit
I'm not blowing up anything.

>>2350050
I thought I would ask here instead of /sci/ since people here actually work with materials:
I cannot provide a picture, but does anyone here know of a type of metal or alloy that is light purple with a greenish tinge when shone upon? Searching online is leading me nowhere because all results assumes I'm talking about effects of welding.

Finally got the flexible adapter working today. Originally had two 5 foot lines but too much load on the system so cut one in half, now it works.

>>2368041
If you temper steel it can turn out like you said

>>2368041
Is color uniform or different throughout the piece? Is it possible the purple/green is a trick of the lighting? Especially if lighting is fluorescent. This is a case where a picture is worth a thousand words.
But maybe titanium if it really is purple/green.

>>2368058
Or of course be something anodized/dyed.

>>2368053
>>2368058
Thanks for replying. I absolutely cannot post a picture of what I'm describing nor can share why; please trust there's a good reason. I tried to create a mock up of what I believe is as close as I can get regarding a visual description: I picked a random picture of a gold bar and tinted it purple as the metal looks in person in a well lit room. When you put a piece of the metal directly under a light, it will shine in an odd green way the same way it looks in the picture.
>If you temper steel
I'm pretty sure it's not steel, but is there any way for me to find out without "analysis"?
>Or of course be something anodized/dyed
Hypothetically, if it were something similar to a gold bar in shape, would the inside also look as described if it was dyed? I'm botanist so I know very little about metals outside of the context of my field.

>>2368066
If you check wether it's magnetic or not it will sort out 50 percent of materials

>>2368066
You sure it's not tempered steel?

>>2368066
Bro found a piece of an alien spaceship in his backyard. Show us a picture of the hyper alloy.

>>2368074
I have several types of magnets, none stick (a big U shaped one, 3 different sizes of fridge ones, those tiny super strong ones, a bar one, a tiny bar one, and a circular one that I have no clue what it's from but looks like a coin).
>>2368076
Yes, the green shine is not within a "perspective" the purple always turns green when shone by light, within variations in tone depending on the strength of the light. So if I put a flashlight on top of the metal, what's closer to the center will be greener, but no greener than what it looks like in the picture earlier, while the further it is it will look green but more mixed with the base purple.

>>2368092
Do you have a grinder? If you can grind it a tiny bit and tell us the color of the sparks, if any, that will help.

>>2368092
Also if you have a suitable container to measure the volume and a scale you can tell us the density of the material. It may be an alloy, but it can get you close to what it could possibly be.

>>2368095
I do but I don't think I should do that. Gut feeling.
>>2368096
Yes but I have to leave, I will try it tomorrow morning as soon as I can.

Thanks for the answers, I will post again when I have measured the volume.

>>2368104
Very mysterious and slightly spooky. Good luck and have fun.

Knife/bottle opener forged from a railroad spike. It’s the first blacksmithing project I’ve done that actually works. Still need to put a bevel on it but I’m waiting for my grinder/belt sander to arrive

>>2363309
Stainless?

>>2368145
Definitely not stainless. Whatever it is I tried melting it down again and it bubbled up a lot and now it smells of sulfur. It was too viscous to pour out into water and get some beads like I wanted. Very strange stuff.

Was stainless even invented during wrought iron times?

>>2368149
nah but some people use wrought in combination with stainless for decorative pieces

>>2368152
You see how the large chainlinks have that piece in the middle? That's what I'm talking about. They're not even forge welded into place just kinda smashed until they're wedged up and stuck.

>>2368066

Anodised Titanium? Green and purple are similar color states.

>>2368210
Or Niobium oxidation states.

>>2363309
Sounds like cast iron from what you've described.

>>2368214
Okay, yeah it looks like it may have been white cast iron. The abrasion resistance was wild.

>>2368187
Nope. Just holy God damn fucking nope.

>>2368294
What? It's just wrought iron chain?

>>2368298
The way they are made. That shit is solid. It's not just smashed in there.

>>2368322
The one i got may have been a lemon, but it was 100% not forge welded in there. I don't think you could even forge weld wrought to cast.

>>2368325
Weird shit. Any idea who the manufacturer was?

>>2368406
Absolutely no idea, but it looked almost exactly like the ones in my picture.

>>2368406
If you're interested I found this mini silent film documentary is incredibly awesome. It shows the manufacture of wrought iron anchor chain and anchors. Amazing footage.

https://youtu.be/so9dEMWmHwI

It appears they do just smash the middle bits in place without welding.

It's incredible to see how much crazy metal work was done by hand. Just a bunch of chads with big sledgehammers beating 2400 degree wrought with almost no ppe.

>>2368426
How the hell does someone who smashes giant links with a hammer for a living looks so skinny?

>>2368460
Cigs and hunger.

>>2350050
How come Texas TIG doesn't pass x-ray? Is it inclusions due to the incomplete heating of the flux? If so, couldn't I just use a TIG rod as the secondary filler?

>>2367552
>Be sure to do some test pieces.
So what am I actually looking for? Discoloration?

>>2368973
Cold welding. Intermittant melting is not how fluxed rods are designed to be used; should be a continuous operation. Not enough heat so get cold shuts, flux voids, all sorts of awful stuff.

>>2368988
So would it be bad to do a short dip of the rod when the weld gets too hot?

>>2368143
very cool anon

>>2368994
The crystal structure sure would end up funny from quenching and you'd get flux inclusions.

>>2368426
Amazing workers

>>2371229
Not a single death or maiming. What is wrong with the Chinese?

Bamp

I spent a lot of money to build a furnace and then got bored after I cast 1 copper ingot. Maybe I'll get it out again.

>>2373585
Make something useful or artistic.

>>2373585
I got bored after doing the most boring thing

Cook Pot making 12 minutes in
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cctL9rguRkc

Is there a good way to test copper and brass for lead? and on that note, if there is lead why doesn't it all just vaporize when you're heating it way past its melting point?

At 3:09
How good are your lathe skills?
https://youtu.be/-3Sp-RpyOpo?list=TLPQMzAwNDIwMjJhEW0f9dlvgA&t=189

>>2374369
Lead smudge sticks.

It will (given enough time). It's a kinetics thing.

>>2374616
I hope I can end up like him one day.

>>2373979
Much better than the Indian copper food pots. Those are made from bullets (whole bullets) melted down and then some Colbolt-60 and Cadmium is added.

>>2358866
Checked

This always feels like the /diy/ version of audiophiles and sound color

>>2377774
>bullets (whole bullets)
not just the casing?
do they not remove the bullet and powder?

What are some practical projects for a beginner on a manual lathe? Spinning tops, handles and stuff like pic related don't have a practical use, so what is something that would be?

I've got 6 acres of land, far too much of of which is covered in brush. I threw picrelated together last night and it works way better for getting the out by the root than a mattock. Sometimes the back leg would sink into the soil too much so in the future I'll either carry a piece of wood to lever off of or wear steel toes and use those.

>>2378559
Oops forgot picture.

>>2378317
Make useless shit learning your operations until you have a real project or a real repair, at which point youll have a bit of experience and hopefully pull it off.

>>2378559
To not sink and get leverage you counterintuitively actually want something that stabs downwards with angled edges and isn't just flat. Think like an upside down cone except long, like the top of a house.

>>2368041
some grades of titanium will be purple if exposed to high heat. Search for "burned titanium"

If I had to thread two parts so that they screw on each other and they lock in a specific position, like aligning something, how would I do it on a manual lathe?

>>2378717
Ended up working alright once I got the hang of it. Had to spear the roots in the right place.

>>2356410
Farriers do it

>>2379678
Screw into the right position then drill a hole to pin them.

Cut the threads such that one bottoms out on the other at the right position.

Add some taper so that it starts to really lock itself at the right position.

Weld.

>>2379763
Not bad. I usually do it by hand and kill my back.

>>2380239
I think none of your suggestions work in my case but maybe I didn't express myself correctly: let's say I have two pieces of square stock.
I'd like to cut and thread one of them while drilling and tapping a hole on the other so that when they're screwed together the two parts are flush and the square profiles line up.
I also want to be able to take them apart.
I'd ask /emt/ but it's dead at the moment.

>>2380319
Keyed shaft kinda thing if you can do a through hole.

Shave threads away until they clamp at the right spot.

Spring detent if you have the room

>>2380354
would something like this work?
- make a mark on the two parts so that they line up and cut the first one to size. Make sure that the screw overall length is a multiple of the pitch: if the thread pitch is 1.5mm make the threaded part+relief 3/4.5/6 mm long
- cover in layout fluid and take a scratch pass
- back off and the tool to the starting point as if you were to take another pass.
- disengage the leadscrew and rotate the chuck until the mark lines up with the tool
- re-engage the leadscrew, slather again in layout fluid and take another scratch pass. The thread beginning now should line with the mark you made to line the two parts up.
- thread normally with a relief grove
Then repeat the procedure for the other part but this time the length doesn't matter as long it's enough to fit the screw.
Now, since the beginning of the threads match and the length of the screw is a multiple of the pitch when the parts are screwed together they should line up.
I have no idea how I'd do it with tap and die, so it only works for thread sizes big enough to fit a threading tool inside them.

>>2380319
Doing the math on pitch, and timing the starting cut of your threads to match on a manual lathe seems horribly difficult.

Get a larger piece of round stock, drill - tap - part, turn and thread. Screw both together and then mill the sides down square.
Use a milling machine and a collet block or use a lathe milling attachment with a router attached, while using some sort of dividing plate on the spindle. Or attach a vise to the milling attachment and use a collet block,
It all depends on how big it needs to be and what other tooling you have

>>2380373
>Doing the math on pitch, and timing the starting cut of your threads to match on a manual lathe seems horribly difficult.

>Doing the math on pitch, and timing the starting cut of your threads to match on a manual lathe is impossible

ftfy

>>2380388
so a CNC lathe could do it?

>>2380391
yes, but maybe not on the first try. having the sides line up once the threads are screwed together tightly is, as the other guy said, "horribly difficult".

>>2380416
fuck

>>2380419
Put an extra bit of length in the shaft, so it bottoms out on the threaded hole. Carefully file the shaft down until it fits where you want it. You could also use the lathe to cut the shaft away.

Not really the machinist way, but it'll get you there if you go really slow.

>>2380703
I understand what you're saying but I think that if I want the parts to be aligned and flush I need to put the extra length on the threaded hole, not the shaft.

>>2380802
Oh yeah... duh.

Any idea where someone can get good leaf springs? Dumpster dive at mechanics?
Everyone where I live wants money for their old busted springs and junkyards won't let us pull our own parts anymore so they charge $75 to send a monkey out to do it. I just need steel targets to forge and plink on man.

>>2350050
did /EMT/ been absorbed by /metallurgy/?

>>2381171
No, somebody makes their thread every once in a while. I am just consistent on ReUpping metallurgy so it is always here.

>>2381049
Unironically buy the cheapest Chinese spring kits you can find. They are actually good at making leaf spring steel.

>>2380802
This is the right idea.
Assuming you are using an independent 4 jaw chuck, and you are indicating your work in, and your stock is actually square.

>male piece, turn down, thread, remove
>female piece, bore, thread past your desired depth
>screw together

At this point you would do a facing operation on the female part, and every pass you take the male part will turn further.

How much of a facing cut should you take?
You have to figure out the lead (linear movement) of your thread pitch per rotation.
Lets assume your thread is 5/8-11", we know 11 revolutions per 1 inch.

So 1" divided by 11 = every full rotation your thread has a travel of 0.0909"
Divide that by 4 (for 4 sides of your square stock) = 0.0227"

So you know your through hole should be at least 0.0227" deeper than your desired depth, to give room for a facing cut thatll give you at least 1/4 of a turn.

Now you need to figure out how much more you need the piece to turn to actually fit.
I honestly dont know the best way to do it, but this is what I came up with.
Use an angle finder like pic related, and then calculate how many degrees its off, and take the percentage of the degrees and apply it to your lead.

Put angle finder on female piece, zero out
Put it on male piece and see how many degrees off you are.

Since we only care about 1/4 of a turn, we are working with 90 degrees
So say the angle finder says its 18 degrees off of 90 degrees.

18 is 20% of 90
So if you wanted to rotate 18 degrees, you would need to turn another 20%.

Well we calculated that a 90degree rotation would take 0.0227" at your TPI
So 20% of you 0.0227" = 0.0045"

A facing cut of 0.0045" would rotate your piece 18 more degrees and should be pretty close
At least this makes sense in my head.

If someone knows some actual math formula that makes more sense, or can tell me why you it wouldnt work, let me know as im curious now.

I would like to learn how to machine. What's a good starting setup?

>>2381934
Buy a lathe before a mill
Buy as big as you can possibly fit in your garage, the smaller and flimsier the machine, the more finicky it is
YMMV because some places have lots of older machine tools nearby, some don’t.

Be prepared to spend copious amount of money on tools. It’s the definition of a moneypit, but it’s highly rewarding

>>2381934
I recommend you get a small and flimsy one to make simple plastic or soft aluminum parts. You will quickly learn if you like machining enough to spend more on a real set-up.

THEN buy the biggest, sturdiest one you can realistically fit and afford.

>>2350050
tip from my master
if you cant find a 500$+ high quality anvil, dont bougther, get youself a railway track instead
painted anvil are less then worthless

flat and round head are nessesary for blacksmithing

>>2382357
Picture related is what I'm aiming for. Preferably forged as cast is supposed to make you go deaf when hammering shit without ear protection

>>2381953
>Buy a lathe before a mill

I'd buy the best deal first. A mill is more useful than a lathe to help make the rest of the shop since it's also a glorious drill press capable of making slotted holes. Rest of post is on point.

Recession is coming so put money aside. I fucking love economic downturns which helped outfit my shop and the next one will get me more delicious equipment.

Study how to move lathes and mills long before buying one and have your kit ready to roll so you don't have to pay a rigger and can leave your moving dolly setup attached from pickup to final in-shop positioning.

>>2382475
Wear earpro either way. Not doing so is mongtarded. Also stop with "supposed" then study and know. All things about smithing are known so the direct efficient way to do the needful is learn what works.

Never speculate because that begs for mistakes.

>>2382496
>>2381953
>>2381934

Although it's nice to have both, my experience is that I actually use the lathe way more than the mill for projects around the shop.

If you could only have one I think I would prefer a decent lathe and really cheap drill press, it's way more common to need to make some small specialty fastener/bushing/shafting/ect than a proper mill part. You can get by with match drilling and transfer punches for many things, throw in a die grinder with some carbide burs and a set of riffler files and you can handle simple crude slots/ect. Something else to consider is sand or lost PLA casting with aluminum, it's very easy to get into and relatively cheap compared to subtractive machining. Once you get the shrinkage of the alloy you're working with dialed in it can be surprisingly accurate. I've got an AXA id toolpost grinder block that I cast and was able to use without having to machine the dovetails, all of the boring work was done with a bar mounted in the chuck.

>>2382475
Forged anvils ring a lot louder than cast. Cast anvils absorb more of the energy.
Cast iron anvils are garbage but I've heard good things about some of the cast steel anvils you can find on Scamazon.

But on the subject of anvils, what are people selling used anvils for these days? I bought a 116lb Peter Wright anvil 5 years ago for $350, but every anvil I see these days seems to be at least $6 per pound - at that rate new forged anvils start to make sense.

Not metallurgy. Closer to small metal working.
Want to reattach an antique hinged cap. The original has small rectangular brass pins, less than an 8th wide, that were inserted into the main body and bent around into a hole near the edge of the flat cap to secure the cap.
It broke off so I will have to drill out the original rectangular pins.
What is the best way to make a small rectangular hole? Small drill bit and a graver to form the walls? Should I nail a rectangular pin with tapered end into a round hole instead? Elongate the hole along? This was made before power tools so I'll do the same.
Stangely where the bent brass pin broke off, it was red.

>>2382797
Update
I punched on the lodged pin and the hole is actually round, bigger than what I originally thought, with a counter sink. I guess the pin was bent through the hole of the cap before installing and the two ends of the pin were both inserted to the drilled holes I just punched through. There is some lead solder around the rim.
Anyone know what this assembly is called?

>>2382715
I use both routinely enough, I cant honestly tell you which one I use more.

With that said, its a whole lot easier to do typical mill stuff with hand tools than it is to do lathe stuff with hand tools.
Its not at all ideal, but with a hand drill and an angle grinder you can do a ton of mill type work for very little money. And if you try hard enough, itll be respectable work.

For me, getting a lathe opened up a huge amount of new opportunities for shit I just simply couldnt do before.
I just remember how many times I completely botched jobs that would have easily been done on a lathe.

>>2382828
Sounds cool, should have posted pics.

>>2382275
is Proxxon okay or is too toylike?

Could I use an M3 (#4-40) die to thread something soft like brass up to a shoulder if I used it inverting it after the first pass?

>>2383040
It’ll work if the back end of your die is l flush
It’s not ideal at because you really don’t want to cut with fully formed threads, you’ll be brute forcing it. But with brass it’ll be soft enough that it’ll probably work without hurting the die any

>>2382953
Good enough for model steam engines and airplanes and small plumbing parts. Would stick mostly to brass or plastics.

>>2383040
Yeah, for brass you'll do fine.

>>2383255
could I get up to aluminum?

>>2383283
Yes itll do aluminum, just remember you will be limited to very small parts no matter what the material.
Sherline and Taig are also super small lathe companies.

I personally wouldnt bother with something so small unless you really plan on doing nothing small ass work.
Youll want to upgrade almost immediately if you fall in love, and if you dont fall in love when the time comes to actually need to make a some bushings or turn something for a repair or whatever, youll wish you had something bigger and stiffer as most stuff would probably be bigger than whats comfortable on that machine.

>>2382933
Sorry not on my own device. If you look up "qalamdan" (middle eastern inkwell/penner/divit)you can see assembled specimens with the same construction to what I have, specifically the type with inkwell attached to the side. There are pics with the cap closed and open for better view. The cap on the inkwell on mine is broken off.
There are two holes drilled by the edge of the cap, forming a hinge. A pin is bent around for each hole and one end of the pin goes through. The cap hole is offset towards the well opening so that, without the bent pins, a little bit of the main body holes is seen from the top, outside of the cap and inside of the cap holes. The counter sinking forces the ends of the pins to close together when driven in, locking the cap in place, with some soldering.
I just need to make replacement pins.
How do I ensure that solder will completely fill in the hole after I have driven in the ends of the pins?

>>2383119
>>2383255
So, I examined more carefully the die I have and both faces are flat. The issue now is that I can't tell the faces apart. They both have a small bevel to make the insertion of the rod/shaft easier but other than that I can't really see any difference. I will post pics later, what should I look for?

>>2383439
what are some bigger machines companies, then? possibly in the EU.

>>2383626
Modern chinese machines are all made in the same handful of factories, the importers into your country have them slap their logo and name on it, and then they resell to you.
Im not a bong so I dont know the resellers in your country, but if you start googling around youll find them.

All the "affordable" new machines being chinese is why people say check facebook and craigslist to find 75 year old shit for less money. But its hit and miss.

Is there a good resource for someone entirely unfamiliar with casting?
I have a decent resin printer and id like to make high quality molds for aluminum parts.

>>2383458
Good cleaning, lots of flux, and GOOD heat.

>>2383624
Oh, you may just have a reversable die. Gonna have to grind one side flush or buy a die with a flat side.

>>2383439
My Sherline lathe and endmill are legit for non-dimensionally critical parts. There is a lot of bending that happens naturally but you really can abuse them considering their size.

>>2383952
I have always wanted to get a sherline lathe after seeing some of the work Clickspring does with one.
But it’s just too much money to drop when I only need to do small fine work rarely, and I already have 2 other lathes that can do it already.
Would be nice using a more appropriate sized lathe for ultra small stuff though

is borax flux for soldering a meme? I made a solution, pretty strong i think because there is still undesolved grains. and the lead does not want to flow when using a torch. I have some globohomo home depot flux but i want to use something traditional.

>>2384346
You have to clean the metal surface very well then quickly borax it before heating. It is more of a protective coating than a real flux.

>>2374616
Easy, once you get a feel for the machine you are using.
>a reduction of just 2.01 millimeters!
lol

>>2384431
What other ancient flux is out there, or things I can perhaps add to borax? Though maybe I did not use enough borax as most make a paste by grinding instead of just making a solution.
I have read about copper-based pigments such as verdigris before, mixed with natron and some other things, used as a solder-flux paste, but not much practical information is out there.

>>2384466
>>2384431
tried cleaning it by abrading and adding borax paste. still did not flow except some lucky times on one side. there is a black layer after heating which i think is the borax. can be easily scraped off the brass, revealing clean surface. laying the lead-tin on borax-coated clean surface just beads up as i heat it. Heating the brass first instead, by the time the metal is hot enough that touching it with the solder melts the solder, it rolls off the surface. maybe using a flame that is too large for a small item?
Tried it on a thin piece or scrap brass. cleaning, adding borax paste and a small piece of lead-tin on top and it worked.

>>2350212
how big can you make these

>>2385943
Theretically as long as the coil is close to the surface of the part being heated it can be an infinitely long wire or a fuck huge circle.

Your only limit is the powersupply and the resistence of the heating coil. Eventually it is so large and long that the cooling fluid can't cope.

>>2386203
ok thanks, I would love an induction forge large enough to practically forge swords, I will keep hunting

>>2385943
I'll take a picture with a larger coil I made next time I fire up.
>>2386353
Forging sword should be easy, especially since you can just locally heat the area you work on. Heat treating however could be a challenge.

>>2386577
yeah that would be cool thanks, with regards to heat treating I was thinking a coil large enough to heat about a third of the blade might do it given how good they appear to transfer heat but I would need to keep the blade moving to get an even heat.

I have designs for a single large-ish (1'x4"x6") heatsink that I need made, presumably of aluminum, but anything works so long as it cools the machine it's for. Are there places I can just waltz up to, hand over the CAD files and some cash and come back in a week to pick it up?

>>2387950
Sure, if you have a large wallet

>>2387952
"large" as in "larger than it would take to get enough gear and material to start from scratch, knowing nothing about metalworking, and do it myself"?

>>2387983
1x4x6 of 6061 aluminum is a $40 chunk of raw material by itself
Not to mention machine time, labor, electricity, tooling costs, setup time.
Machine shops dont deal with people off the street because people off the street dont want to pay the price of labor, and when the people do want to pay the price of labor it wastes valuable machine time setting up for just one part.
Time that can be used making more money with something else.
Itll take the same time to set up for your part as it would be for another companies order of 75 parts.

Ask machine shops, just expect 75-80% to say no and the ones that say yes expect $3-400 unless its super complicated in which itll cost more.

>>2387986
>>2387983
Also I should say, post the file on /emt/ or finding some dude with machines in his garage is the best way to do it. They will undersell their machine time to make a sale.

If its pretty basic and can be done on a manual machine, someone will take you up on the offer. Its its really complicated, youll have a much harder time finding someone with a CNC mill.

>>2387950
You can make a HackSaw/bandsaw and/or drill hole heatsink... It WILL look like shit but it WILL work.

>>2387091
So I tried it out and it wasn't as effective as I remembered, see pic related. I made the coil for making twists in wrought iron, but couldn't get the whole length very hot. Keep in mind unlike a forge you are losing a lot of heat to radiation, so at some point even if you are moving a large piece through a small coil you will lose heat as fast as you can put heat in. Though perhaps a ceramic tube insert inside the coils could aid this.
Anyways my coil could probably be optimized (loops are pretty lazy but will have to anneal to get tighter), but first glance answer seems to be impracticable for heat treating swords with this particular unit (I have successfully heat treated 10"knives thus far). (240V, draws about 32A btw)

>>2388601
I'm surprised it worked as well as it did. Helixes are pretty poor coil designs. The tighter the circles the more efficient the heat transfer. Actually, for a swordshape, flattened squareish loops would be ideal.

Bamp

How feasible is it for me to build my own lathe out of steel plate with nothing but a surface plate, dial indicator, calipers, micrometer, welder, angle grinder. bench grinder, drill, drill press, scraper and other common hand tools?

>>2390052
Thefe are many good books on doing just that. All aspects of a lathe really only need what you listed. For the head you end up drill pressing bearing pockets then making them adjustable with tons of set screws to account for the poor circularity. The first thing you do with the lathe is make better bearing pockets.

Tons of books, look it up!

>>2391227

>>2391227
Jannies, do they even check reports any more?

Currently working on a quicky home forge for melting low melting point metals (tin and lower) I've seen the bucket plaster method, but can anyone give me something better and just as relatively easy and cheap to do?

>>2392647
Two holes in the dirt connected by a hole.
One has tons of wood and junk and the other has a high quality fired clay bowl or a steel vessel (cast iron skillet preferable).

Blast air through the burning pile of wood with a leafblower or hair dryer.

Metal will melt as heat is forced out the other side. Soil is a great insulator so the method works well and is "free".

>>2392647
Cast iron skillet and a really hot wood fire. Cheapest you can get and can juuust do lead. Get a cheap air bellow or even just a hand fan.

>get PhD in metallurgy
>get job in it while working on big $ projects
>trying to do stuff at home with small $

Different approaches but still fun; just starting out.

>>2387950
Get three quotes from local machine shops but be aware many are too busy to take side jobs. Consider buying a heat sink then cutting to size if you have a weird application.

>>2390052
A simple non-screwcutting lathe would be fairly easy. I'd use a spindle from the rear of a common front-wheel drive car to hold the chuck.

Making a lathe is not a way to get a very useful lathe but is a way to have much fun. Consider looking for used brake lathes and modding one. Study a variety of manual lathes and visit hobby machining forums. With determination, patience and serious study you can do it.

If you just want a lathe it's usually easier to buy an ancient lathe but your research and project needs should inform your choice.

>>2392647
LP cookers are easy to find cheap used. Mod to suit your crucible or pan and have fun.

>>2393884
>A simple non-screwcutting lathe would be fairly easy.
I want screwcutting as well eventually, but I would have to make gears on a shaper using a rack cutter. I don't really need a lathe to make a shaper so I guess I should start with that first.
>I'd use a spindle from the rear of a common front-wheel drive car to hold the chuck.
Or a trailer lazy axle.

>>2350212
That's hot

>>2350212
>Induction furnace
What is that?

>>2350050
Y'all seem quite good on that determining metal type stuff. I have found this old samowar in my basement. It seems the outside is another material than the inside (probably an alloy of brass)
The inner material though I am not sure what it is supposed to be. Pic will follow.

Also what is the white stuff on the handle?

>>2394978
This is the material on the inside. It kind of reminds me of Zinc coating?
How do I determine what it is?

>>2394979
upon further inspection and trying to use the samowar, I have come to the conclusion that the bottom of it is leaking. How to fix this?

>>2394793
Jewish Hall of Fame

I more or less want to copy this forge design for my outdoor "workshop". Any idea what the best way to make this sort of thing is? There's also no fixed electricity at the location, so what is the best solution for moving air? Bellows? Box bellows?

>>2395203
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzgpI3MreTk

>>2394979
Tinned brass. Common in India/Pakistan to protect wet ware (pots/pans). The debris on the handles is just corrosion of the brass that doesn't get removed from the cracks. Copper and zinc oxides.

Can probably solder with lead free solder to fill any leaks.

>>2395203
Clay bricks and a good mortar. Line main firebox with firebricks.

Chain-pulled overhead bellow. Look up old American blacksmith forges.

Is picrel worth picking up?

>>2396061
As with everything in life...


It depends.

Cost, need, availability of alternatives.

Any good anvil buying guides? There's one near me that seems to be a good deal, considering the condition and age.

>live in typical suburb
>coal forge and propane forge not allowed in garage
>coal grill and propane grill on patio allowed

Looks like I'm going to have the funniest looking coal and propane """food""" grills in the neighborhood. At least I save on having to spec out a ventilation system that doesn't cost a fortune to heat and cool.

i think this is the right thread to ask this in.
i want portable fire pit schematics to have a shop make one for me.
this is what i could find
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/508906826624649316/
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/3659243432483859/
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/10836855337037194/
is it legit or does it have obvious design flaws?
i think the holes placement should be on the opposite end but i'm retarded and never tried looking at this kind of thing (creating something yourself)

>>2397788
i forgot to mention that i also found this but it's in inches and my third world country work in metric. can i just convert the numbers into metric and it'll be ok?
https://www.instructables.com/Build-Your-Own-Portable-or-Stationary-Firepit/
opinions on it too please?

>>2397788
Looks good but be sure to apply a very good high-temp paint and don't let it get rained on.

>>2397814
Yes. Conversion does work.

Either is fine.

>>2397336
Be sure to always have a pack of wieners on hand for emergency inspection!

>>2397819
thanks!

>>2397814
Look up portable cavalry forge for good designs.

>>2397336
Glad to hear you found a work around. Technically allowed is the best type of allowed. Homeowner Associations are the worst people. Fortunately none where I live so I do whatever the fuck I want.

>>2388836
Would a more oval design be better for a sword shape? One could more evenly heat the sword as it matches the profile closer than a square, probably easier coil to make than a square also

>>2398301
"Flat Oval", "squarish", they're all the same. It's a rectangle with rounded corners. Heating coils aren't very good at surviving tight bends unless made very carefully with frozen soap filling. The point is the coils must be evenly close to the surfaces of the blade all around.

Bamp

Sorry for the knife, but figured I would bump with some interesting work I'm doing.

This is a san-mai style blade using wrought iron for the soft steel.

I got a couple 20lb wrought iron chainlinks and turned pieces of them into square stock before squishing more and doing an oxygen free forge weld on a sandwich of them and some carbon steel.

Fun projecf, but I'm having trouble getting the layers to be very even. Going to stick to it and keep getting better. The wrought iron looks really cool with the right amount of etching.

>>2401588
Be aware that the surface flows more than the core during hammer or drop forging. When you laminate you actually want the core to be thinner shim and skin to be thicker sheet. Then, as you form the bundle, the outer layers flow outwards. Cut away the edges of your now flat pancake or at least cut the knife out of the middle.

>>2401773
I had better results using .25 wrought and .2ish inner layer. I'm using a forge press and I think one of my problems is I'm doing too big of a squish at once on too small of a die.

I've constructed some huge T dies that have a 6 inch long work surface. I just need to go through the rigmaroll to weld my stupid 1045 to the mild steel that holds the dies on the press. Pain in the ass preheating to 500 degrees, possible stress relief after welding, etc. Ugh.

I think those will make the layers much more even.

>>2350050
>/X/

>>2401863
He said alchemical reagents, not dick sucking steel bars.

>>2357299
>>2357047
Check out volume 1 of Build Your Own Metal Working Shop From Scrap; I managed to build my own charcoal fired furnace using a bucket, a pvc connected to a metal pipe, sand mixed with plaster - forcing air into it using my wife's hair-dryer. Cost about ~50 dollarydoos.
No need for more expensive refractory plaster or anything if you just want to get your toes wet. You can upgrade to a better one (I eventually bought A devils furnace) if you stick with it

>>2401773
Got it! Messing around with how I am going to etch the wrought. This is with like 4 or 5 cycles of dilute nitric acid. I enjoy the more subtle, but ferric chloride does look cool, so I may mess with that as well.

Aaaaand I finally got my T dies fitted perfectly. They work amazingly well. These were an incredible pain in the ass to make. Very worth it tho.

>>2404161
What is the benefit of a T-Shape?

>>2403610
Fug around with electrical and caustics. Can get different results compared to just acids.

>>2404278
The T shape allows me to draw out stock easily, flatten stock precisely, and use tools more easily compared to more narrow drawing dies. The short one is 4.5 inches and the longer side is 6.5 inches. If you only have 1.5 inch wide dies it's really hard to get consistent thickness and flatness, which is super important for making knives and pattern welded steel.

>etching
I was reading sodium bisulfite could be cool. I'm undecided on the more subtle style where details come out in the correct light vs. Heavy etching where actual physical texture from the wrought comes through. Maybe a mixture of both... excited to experiment regardless.

>>2404286
Get some HF. It makes etching FUN!

>>2405960
Lol. Knife making already exposes me to enough fumes, dust, IR radiation, and noise. I don't need to use a chemical that will kill me in a hurry. I went with a ferric chloride etch that exposed the grain of the wrought iron really nicely, but I may redo it tommorow. Pics in a lil.

>>2404286
But larger area means you need more pressure right. How many tons is your press? Can you upload more pictures of it?

>>2406415
It's a 25 ton press. I copied the dimensions of the T dies that the manufacturers make.

>>2406419
Pic.

>>2406421
Handles this wrought iron without any trouble. The wrought iron chain is 1.75in diameter.

>>2406422
Dammit.

>>2406424
Aaaand here is the etched knife. Looks pretty sweet. I may try doing one or two refinement steps on the wrought iron before making another san mai billet to tighten the grain and remove a bit more of the slag.

>>2406422
Sure it should. It says 7000 Dollars here damn.
https://coaliron.com/collections/hydraulic-forging-presses

>>2406439
Are you ready for COPPER BRAZED layers? Adds goldenlayers between the steel. Silver braze makes for super clean white lines.

>>2406612
It can look pretty cool, but I dislike the idea adding non ferrous layers, especially really soft and non corrosion resistant.

For outdoors and work knives I don't cringe, but if I see kitchen knife with copper or nickel layers I definitely cringe a bit.

>>2406664
You don't want a self-etching knife!?

>>2395954
Aye thank you
Not a big fan of Zinc of questionable origin for food stuffs

>>2407531
Eh. Maybe a self etching pipe tamper aka world's most expensive nail like this one I made.

>>2409542
Makes me think... A rifle mechanism or evenan AR15 would look great with that.

>>2410263
That's a really cool idea. I'm a decent machinist and have a lathe and knee mill, so the possibility is there. Bigger pieces would probably be exorbitantly expensive, but gun nuts already pay insane prices for attractive things like that.

>>2410320
If you made an artpiece one-off... At least it'd be a full family heirloom. Maybe even the ejection port covers would be quick, easy, and attractive.

>>2363789
ok now to get aclean shape get a small charge of explosive and carefully place it inside and fill it with water (this will make it gentel) then set it off.

this should get you a nice and pretty shape.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96yhdnhPxAw

>>2411912
The baffels in the muffler would cause weird pressure fronts and make a mutated lump muffler.

I have an old S10 transmission that wont sell
Can I pull it apart, break up the cast aluminum housing and bell housing and melt it down for casting stuff?
Maybe try and forge or worth with the gears and shafts inside too?
Or do I just toss it? It’s taking up too much space and has to go

>>2412868
>Maybe try and forge or worth with the gears and shafts inside too?

There should be some nice metal in there; not sure how easy to identify type. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuwZpjyQeTI

I need to drill a new front sight for my S&W revolver, which apparently requires a #54 drill bit (1.397mm according to Google). This will then be connecting using a roll pin, so there is some spring back and margin of error. Could I get away with a 1.4mm drill bit, instead of ordering imperial drill bits?

>>2413436
Rollpins can be adjusted. It will be fine.

>>2413436
#54 is 0.0550" with 1.4mm being 0.0551"
Itll be fine, granted you over oversize the hole any.
How do you plan on drilling it?

>>2413436
Idk with the recoil shock I wouldn't dar to do it any other way than the instructions say

>>2394978
>>2394985
>>2394979
miedź albo mosiądz
jak cieknie to kup DOBRĄ lutownicę i drucik BEZ OŁOWIU (żebyś się nie zatrół podczas używania) albo możesz nadtopić miedzi na szczelinę

>>2413863
Thanks.

>>2413871
Usual method appears to be clamping the gun in a vice, clamping the front sight in place with an F-clamp and then just drilling through the already existant hole, through the front sight and out again.

>>2413959
It's a .22, I'm not worried about recoil but rather about hotdog down a hallway fitment.

>>2414136
Kurwa.

>>2414235
>Kurwa.
:^)

>welding at day: is hot
>welding at night: is humid therefore hot
Reeee I fucking hate summer

>>2414260
Have you tried welding in the wife's kitchen?

>>2414136
you're clearly in the wrong thread. search catalogue for "keyboard repair" before posting again.

>>2414235
>It's a .22, I'm not worried about recoil but rather about hotdog down a hallway fitment.
Ah nevermind, go ahead and post results lmao

Holy crap bros. I started my first mosaic pattern welded billet and I made it too big. I drew it out today and the thing is like 2.5 feet x 2 inch x 1 inch. Very heavy. I'll have pics tommorow when I clean up and slice the bar up for the next welds and stuff.

On the bright side if I can pull this off I'll have a billet that will be able to make a bunch super expensive knives.

>>2350050
What are the laws on having someone here make a lower for an AR15? I want one that uses KP9 mags because I already bought a bunch and nobody makes lowers for said mags

>>2415795
Have to make it yourself in a state which allows domestic manufacter. Have you considered a modified 3D printed lower?

>>2415614
Just make a $word.

i have a boomer friend who is currently in possession of a massive metal drawer filled with tons of milling related shit, how do i convince him not to throw it out and is there a place where I can help him sell the stuff so it doesn't get scrapped?

Not sure if this is the right thread... but it's a metal related question, so:
I want to make a bunch of flags like these lawn markers, but much taller. Maybe up 8 ft tall even... I will be attaching plastic or fabric flags to them. What can I buy to construct these flags? I was thinking of a material similar to wire clothes hangers, or maybe some kind of strong electrical cable that I could remove the shielding from... It just needs to be rigid enough that it will stay standing up in moderate wind with some flags attached.

>>2416112
8 ft tall you will probably need quarter inch steel rod. 4 foot or less 1/8th inch should be fine.

>>2416015
Take it off his hands yourself. Then catalogue and list on Facebook marketplace.

>>2416112
8' flag poles? Black iron pipe, at least 0.5" OD. You pretty much want a large pipe. Fill with something like two-part epoxy for extra weight, stiffness, and to keep dirt out the bottom.

>>2416158
>>2416161
Hmm, thanks. I was hoping I wouldn't need something that heavy.
And to clarify on 'flag': I don't mean actual flags, just small little pieces of plastic like the lawn markers above, maybe 6 inches big. Not real full size flags. I'm making a kind of obstacle course and just need to get the small markers higher off the ground. Maybe I can go with wooden dowels, and then some metal pipes hammered into the ground as anchors.

Okay! I got the bar cleaned up. Final measure is 20.5x1x2. Time to chop it into 4 equal pieces. I hate using an angle grinder so much.

After the forge weld you square the stack and then press the corners down. After the corners are smashed down you press the bar into a rectangle, which forms the first bit of the W pattern.

>>2416189
Feels good to see this is going well.

>>2416204
Sealed up and into the forge. I may not have enough gas. We shall see.

And for anyone interested here's this recipe for mosaic pattern welded I found. I'm probably around 15 hours into this billet and I'm almost half way through it. Very time consuming.

Crap out of gas. I really need a second tank. Tommorow it continues.

>>2416170
Oh, that's a VERY different story. Pretty much any wooden dowel will work even at 8' for a small marker. PVC, too.

how do you melt iron/steel? I'm getting into foundries and I don't get the concepts. I have this autistic ass
>melt copper/aluminum in steel
sort of idea which says that like you have to make a foundry of graphite to melt iron/steel in but I know that's wrong. is the correct answer like bigness? like you make a foundry of steel that is big enough to contain a much smaller amount of iron and steel inside of it to warrant such a foundry? I kind of imagine such a foundry to slowly deteriorate over time.

>>2417280
You should start with cast iron first due to its lower melting point. All crucibles deteriorate and are basically consumables. How you treat them determines their lifespan.

Remember iron is really heavy, so starting off smaller is better to begin with.

>>2417280
Read any basic articLe on crucibles you retard. They have only existed SINCE THE FUCKING BRONZE AGE! Sheesh.

And wa la. Here it is. I used this knife as a learning lesson on finishing the handle scales before gluing them, which is partly why the handle is kinda weird and sloppy looking. Learned a lot for next time!

The two flats look completely different. Here's the cooler of the two.

Feels pretty nice in the hand for its size.

>>2417595
>>2417595
anything over 200KB is shitposting

>>2417613
But you can't even see the pattern anymore. :(

>>2417290
>>2417459
you're both saying crucibles. I'm saying foundries

the foundry is the uh thing that holds the fire and the crucible. This brings me to my next question:

how do you make fires hot enough to melt iron/steel? propane doesn't work, right? regular charcoal doesn't work. I think someone was telling me that you can buy some "special charcoal" and it gets hot enough. But then again, if the fires are hot enough to melt steel, they're, well, probably hot enough to burn through refractory cement or anything else I can think of too.

I watched a primitive youtube video where I guy refined iron from ore using a clay furnace, but the furnace crumbled and I'd like an idea that sticks with me a lot better. I do realize that truly accepting, appreciating and understanding clay is a very correct answer to metallurgy. Clay is technically one of the most complex substances known to man.

It looks like alumina, with amelting point of 3800, would make a good refractory lining for an iron foundry, which would have to reach a temperature of 2800 degrees so that gives you a good 1000 degrees farenheit of leeway for some fire heat.

So, I sort of answered my question a little. I don't know if that's how it's done or anything, but I have some answers. Any input is welcome.

>>2417894
lel yes the foundry is the furnace taht's what I meant to say

What is the difference between pickling gel and passivization gel?
What should I get if I want to stick weld some shit out of stainless that will not be in contact with food but might get exposed to rain and salts?

>>2417895
b3p b0p b00p hello me again I just want to mention that also you know tungsten has a melting point of 6000 F so you know pls wizard don't only just answer this riddle but here is a riddle too: how do people do tungsten

but because I'd much rather have answers to the questions I've already asked instead of what is virtually trivia since because I won't be smeltin no tungsten I'm going to quote wikipedia here:

Tungsten is extracted from its ores in several stages. The ore is eventually converted to tungsten(VI) oxide (WO3), which is heated with hydrogen or carbon to produce powdered tungsten.[39] Because of tungsten's high melting point, it is not commercially feasible to cast tungsten ingots. Instead, powdered tungsten is mixed with small amounts of powdered nickel or other metals, and sintered. During the sintering process, the nickel diffuses into the tungsten, producing an alloy.

but mostly I'm just bringing it up but I'm more interested in actually reproducing a way to do backyard steel

>>2417894
Electric arc furnace with an old stick welder, Coal coke with a heavy duty blower, or maybe propane with a blower could work.

>>2417894
You are still just as dumb. Holy shit... Do you have any idea how thermal gradients work? You line steel with refractory cement and alumina bricks and make it hot inside. Molten steel inside and hot but rather solid steel outside.

Propane burned with Oxygen will melt steel. High quality charcoal will melt steel when burned with oxygen. Fuel oil will easily melt cast-iron and when oxygenated easily melts steel.

cnc won’t start
how can troubleshoot this?

>>2418331
Per the Haas tech data for the problem.

>>2360701
>Is a foundry and sand casting the first step into fabrication?

Oh fuck no and throw that Gingery shit into the trash. Those are projects for fully equipped machinists who are terribly bored and have years to waste in retirement.

>>2361999
is wise. Learn welding/cutting/brazing/hot work first so you can quickly fab basic but necessary shop equipment (like dollies to move machine tools without paying a rigger which done right is safer than rigging and moves the tool all the way into your shop). Then if possible take a machining course. Either way haunt FORUMS not 4chan. Practical Machinist is the leading professional forum but hobby machining fora abound. You have a shitload of reading to do so do it including learning how to inspect and efficiently purchase machine tools. Assume nothing, and copy success.

As a rentoid a machine shop course is a good way to learn and if you volunteer heavily as I did the staff usually let you make your own projects after hours. My bro I turned onto machining went to work for the school (he's a natural machinist) and that pays for his home shop we set up in a 40ft High Cube.

If you rent an apartment you're fucked. If you rent a house in a permissive area setting up a small mobile shop in say a 20ft container is doable. (The military uses them for mobile machine shops and they can be moved with a heavy duty rollback if the contents are securely attached, see the Sea Box site for cool ideas to copy.)

I have the room and the gear to build a forge and foundry but they're kind of useless without finish machining capability. Art is fine but it doesn't build useful things so I put my efforts into welding, machining and their precursor, mechanics which works with everything.

The first thing I'd tell someone new to do is take an auto mechanics class. Then take machining and welding courses. They're all huge fun and the earlier you do it the greater the impact on your life.

>>2418367
where can I find that tech data?

>>2418331
Check for Short to Ground on all your leads. Then start checking winding resistence of your motor leads and for short to ground.

>>2417894
charcoal easily melts steel, but to get it hot enough you have to blow a lot of air into it. I accidentally melted a big lump of rebar by leaving it in my charcoal foundry too long

>>2418687
It helps if it is an alloy and high carbon. Much easier to melt. Hence the ease of cast iron foundaries.