/diy/ - Do It Yourself

What do you guys think of this printer? It's called the iFactory One. It's an open source printer, but you can get a DIY kit for £999.
https://shop.ifactory3d.com/page15889780.html
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2996234

>>2047613
If it is a kit then it is not DIY

Holy shit you IDIOTS all said a delta was trash but this thing can spit out A WHOLE FUCKING FULL SIZE 4/4 VIOLIN IN JUST UNDER 8 HOURS.

You taught me wrong on purpose, as a joke. pic isnt mine but same printer

>>2047613
sounds like its money vacuum, 999 for a printer thats not even enclosed, no direct drive, and no auto leveling sounds like fucking cancer. also the conveyer bed is an absolute gimmick.

Get a prusa kit for cheaper and it will be a better printer

>>2047626
>You taught me wrong on purpose, as a joke
epic kung pow reference bro

>>2047623
Oh, I'm sorry, I should have put BIY as in BUILD IT YOURSELF, you cunt

Do any of you lads know where I can get a good model for a bust of Der Fuehrer? Also looking for a Stahlhelm or any related models.

>new y carriage
>new full set of wheels
>pi prepped and ready for printer to go to klipper
What are yours guys' plans for 3D printing this weekend? Mine is just upgrading, trying out Klipper and hopefully printing some "wood" models by Sunday, if I'm lucky and the upgrades go smoothly and work doesn't get in the way.

>>2047626
this is endershillgeneral
take your heretic kinematic and leave

>>2047545
>$30 MSLA printer kit

https://hackaday.com/2021/03/04/inspire-dev-kit-drops-price-of-msla-printer-to-just-30/

>>2047693
So you can't really print anything useful on it yet it seems...stil an interesting kit for $30. Not for the inexperienced though. Very tempting, but I can already print blobs with my FDM printer.

>>2047526
link me

>>2047626
what is this printer and how much is it? Looks nice
>>2047687
I'll print some airduct-parts for the enclosure and maybe put cooling fins on the rest of the steppers. And I should look for an enclose for the creality board

>>2047626
>Holy shit you IDIOTS all said a delta was trash but this thing can spit out A WHOLE FUCKING FULL SIZE 4/4 VIOLIN IN JUST UNDER 8 HOURS.
Post the print then, it'll look like garbage. To get that kinda volume in that kinda time, you'd need big nozzles and layer heights, almost up to the point where the average heater cartridge craps out.

>he bought a 1000 dollar printer just to print PLA

>>2047761
Fuck posting a print, he should post a sound clip of his printed violin
Actually maybe a webm with sound so we know it's not someone else's violin sounds

>>2044514
Oh shit I didn't see your post
Damn how is it? Mine looks like garbage but works pretty good.
I just posted yesterday my remix which is ender3 "friendly".
I saw that 4 part one but was pretty sus about it potentially leaking, but after having to solder mine together in a bunch of places, I can see it would have been fine probably

I want to print some small drawers for a small drawer thing. I would like to print them in some type of clear plastic. I know that it can't be 100% clear, so an opaque is OK. Is there any filament that you guys would recommend for this? I don't care if it is PLA or PETG. I haven't printed with any clear filament yet.

>>2047788
From what I experienced clear petg turns out more transparent than clear pla. the hotter and thicker the more transparent it will be. pic related, standard 0.4x0.2mm petg-print at only 225C

>>2047788
you can achieve true transparency in 3d printing.
the defining factors are Vase mode, Material choice and post processing.

A 0.8mm nozzle would allow you a sturdy drawer printed in vase mode, they do that with stacking boxes as benchmark.
Material choice for this is PMMA filament, plexi glass.
Acetone vapor will turn it fully transparent

pic from googol

>>2047804
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmbAlTxLbg0

>>2047807
while cool this is absurdly unfit for what that anon wants to do

nice
Fits perfectly

>>2047788
>>2047804

Just use an SLA printer brah

>>2047761
>>2047759
>>2047774
Tevo little monster
I'm having adhesion issues because it's bare glass and the buildplate sticker wasn't included, I was only able to get halfway through before it detached. Waiting on a large buildplate sticker to arrive this weekend. Printing at 150mm/s really isn't all that fast, it has a knockoff volcano hotend. Cooling is probably more of an issue than the hotend keeping up right now. Also seeing blobbing because smoothieware doesn't have linear advance. Trying out arcwelder to see if there is any difference.

>>2047899
god i want to shove that up my asshole

>>2047626
>Holy shit you IDIOTS all said a delta was trash
They're not a good recommendation to people as a FIRST printer due to the higher difficulty in setting them up correctly. I don't think anyone said they were "trash".

>>2047831
sand your prints

>>2047899
get a load of mr richypants over here

I bought some chink flexible steel pei. And I'm having way too much fucking adhesion with silk pla. I just tried windex and even that barely helped. Any suggestions?

Best brand for ASA? Tips for printing it? I only ever see people printing PLA here, with the odd ABS. Does it do any worse than ABS in any way?

>>2047941
Why the fuck would you expect Windex to lower the adhesion?

>>2047899
>cracks in 2 weeks

>>2047943
What would you use?

>>2047946
Fuck off, that's the 'tough' resin
It'll last three

>>2047941
Silicone lube spray

>>2047942
>I only ever see people printing PLA here, with the odd ABS.
I thought everyone here prints with PETG

>>2047943
For “normal” sticky materials, you need to use something to loosen the adhesion. Cleaning the PEI surface as described above is still recommended to ensure an evenly clean surface, but you want to apply a small amount of release agent.

A wipe of the PEI surface with Windex or similar ammonia-based window cleaner will work. Don’t use anything enhanced with vinegar or anti-streaking agents. The key is that this cleaner leaves a very thin residue that helps remove materials that otherwise stick a bit too well. Don’t wipe it all away. You want a thin film of residue to remain.

>>2047935
When I get to it

>>2047968
Never have I done this but whatever works for you

>>2047626
If you've got an ass I'll print it.

>>2047983
Gimmie an ass, any ass, and I'll print it for you for a dollar

>>2047986

>>2047545
I have already designed a few simple parts using FreeCAD and printed them and they are fine. But now I want to design a derailuer hanger for me mountain bike. The key is I need to have the three holes related to each other by the distances to their centers. Is the process to create three cylenders of the right diametere, then how do I set the distance and angle between them? Once that is set I can than add a slab to join them and cut out the rest of shape. Pic related.

>>2048004
how much does your bike weigh?

>>2048019
about 33 pounds, about 260 when I am on it. Its a full suspenion mountain bike.

>>2048024
what filament do you plan on using? i don't have an answer to your question but i do know its easy to do in fusion360

This is pretty clever
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBB5WuhNhWk

>>2048032
prototyping with PLA. If I can get it sorted out then I would print it the nylon fiber which should be strong enough. Although is it thin, there is little side to side motion and there should be enough thickness front to back for a stress on it. If the plastic does not hold up I will try using the printed version as a mold for aluminum casting. The cost online to buy one is $60 bucks before tax and shipping, its not that expensive, but I want to improve my skills with FreeCAD, 3D printing and soon sand casting.

>>2048043
Amazing! That guy has a lot of really cool ideas.

>>2048004
Get a good picture of the derayller you want to replicate. Then import it as a picture into your sketch, scale it up properly, and then just get your dimensions off of that. If you're lucky all your measurements will round off to whole millimeters or decimals etc. and angles to whole degrees.

>>2048043
thanks for the link. Very interesting. I wish I knew people like that. All the people I work with are lazy and brain dead.

>>2048057
I can do that in FreeCAD? I will look into it. I took off the deraileur and took many photos of it, so if I can import one into FreeCAD this should be easy.

Thanks.

>>2048057
I feel so retarded. After reading your post about importing pics I search youtube and the first vidya that popped up is some dude showing you how to make a deraileur hanger.

>>2048067
Delete that piece of garbage software and download Fusion 360

>all bolts on printer with bearings on them are fully threaded
Do you think I will see any improvement to smoothness, speed, or bearing life if I upgrade the bolts to shoulder bolts? If so, should the shoulder be the length of the bearing and the spacer/eccentric nut or just the bearing?
>pic related

>>2047777
I kept the clamps on as a stand while I figure out what sort of shelf I want to put it on
The 4-piece design did leak like crazy, so I smothered the seams in gasket and now it sounds fantastic - no puffing noises and a good range of tones.
I'm a bit nervous about volume control, but that's more of an issue with the amplifier pushing more than twice the driver's rated power than any issue with the enclosure. went with a 2.1 lepai, 68W RMS sub output

how do I test my power supply?

>>2047908
>Printing at 150mm/s really isn't all that fast, it has a knockoff volcano hotend.
150mm/s on a 0.4 nozzle and 0.2 layer height isn't going to cause trouble (only 12mm3/s), but it's not gonna print a violin at that rate either. 0.8 nozzle/0.4 layer height and you you're likely to kill the hotend, at the very least send it into thermal runaway - but it might print the violin fast enough. Alternatively, you could just Chad it out with a cartesian printer, 1.2mm nozzle, 0.6 layer height, printer go BRRRRRRR at 60mm/s - which is the superior option, really. Fuck compromising to make the hotend fast, just extrude more due to size.

>>2047933
I would like to do this community a service, by stating that deltas are, indeed, frankly, quite simply, trash.

>>2048168
Easy, grab your multimeter and start connecting the red probes to the red wires and black probes to black wires.
Looking at this picture as an example, you would test the red and black on the left with the AC mode. This is the electricity coming from your wall outlet. It should read 110V/220V depe ding in your country. I think you can just test red and black but your might be able to use the center neutral wire for testing, too.
What you really want to test is the right 6 wires, which are the DC wires, the electricity the PSU has converted from your wall. The first 3 are negative and the last three are positive. You can follow the wires to see where they lead. When you find a red and black that go to the same place, you can test the voltage for that. It should read 12V or 24V depending on your machine.
I probably skipped a lot. Be careful when you mess with the power supply. Watch this video, it should help you.
https:/www.youtube.com/watch?v=JISI3ZBt1jM

>>2048168
>>2048188

>>2048185
>1.2mm nozzle, 0.6 layer height
Can you post an example of something printed like this? Sounds cool and I don't really mind layer lines.

>>2047989
Chosen one!

>>2047942
>Tips for printing it?
after half a roll, dont even try without an enclosure.
My bed despite being 200w has dificultys of getting up to 100°, at 80 it will stick but warp off.

The fumes are NASTY. I dont find the smell off putting, but after breathing it for 10 mins im the same as severe drunk
>>2048124
you will not notice a difference. the bearing is retained by the screw clamping on the inner race, not serving as an axle. The excenter gets rid of the slag

>>2048206
I noticed the center was actually spinning on mine that's one of the reasons I asked. I added a washer to both sides of the bearings. Now the center stays put and the bearing spins but it doesn't keep spinning like I imagine a bearing should, like bearings on a skateboard. Maybe I should just get some new ones, these are just the stock ones that came with my printer.

You guys posting your printed speaker cabinets but how about 3D printed speaker drivers?
https://polymate3d.com/getting-started/

>>2048221
its 2 bearing 2 per roll with a shim in between.
if the roller stops going smooth after you tighten the bolt, this is due to the shim being to thin and you applying axial force on a groove bearing.
afaik the shim has to be around 0.9mm thick or you run into problems, either they bind up or the bearings have axial play in the wheel. On y this leads to the bed loosing its level btw.

You should buy shims for the m6 bolts in a couple thicknesses so you can play with that instead of new roles, as most chink rollers on the market suffer from this issue.
Stock rollers are better quality than those 12 packs

over a month ago i wrote to creality that my parts coolingfan stopped working
I told them it doesn't work but if I move around the wire it starts working but if i move it bit more it stops working. You know what it means, I know what it means, everyone knows what it means.
and they're like
>HOL UP SEND VIDEO
I did
>HOL UP OUR FINEST TECHNICIANS ARE WORKING ON IT
and half a month later I asked what's up
>OUR FINEST ENGINEERS ARE PONDERING THE CONONDRUM THAT YOU SENT US WE WILL LET YOU KNOW
and they still haven't said anything.

Why does it take top tier 3d printer engineers over a month to diagnose a bad solder or a broken wire and send a replacment 20 cent fan

>>2048226
Just replace the fucking fan you muppet.

I bet they think you are an inept normie so they just dont bother with made up problems.

>>2048226
>creality
>top tier 3d printer engineers
what groundbreaking stuff has creality done on their own
>copy i3 design
>leech of open source firmware
>leech of open source slicer
>leech of the e3d lite design
>leech of open builds rollers
there is 0 innovation with them, just clever remixes and an army of shills

>>2048230
Good engineers don't do groundbreaking, they make optimal use of resources to create a profitable product.

>>2048225
>12 packs
That's one thing really irritating about looking for new rollers is the amount they come in. My printer has 13 but majority of packs are 10 or 12. I don't feel like it is the type of part I need to keep a bunch of extra around for, even if they are cheap enough.

Is there some kind of advantage to this style of roller?

>>2048226
Hey Fei Xi, look at this dumb fat pig american. He bought cheapest printer he could find, and can not be bothered to fix a loose wire!

Haha, Fei Xi, look again. He's waited two weeks after I told him our rocket engineers are working on it! Is he too stupid to know it's a loose wire or is the dumb fat american too poor to buy a 20 cent fan?

Do any of you have printed busts?
I was talking to my wife about them and asked if she had anyone that she wanted a bust of. She said she thought they were stupid but if I do print some I should keep them about the size of a coffee cup. I told her I thiught they should be life-sized or as close as possible. I was threatening her with a life-sized Shrek bust. One day she will wake up and there it will be on her desk. Not sure how I'm going to hide a 42hr print from her though lol.
Do any of you have printed statues? I also asked her if she had any that she liked but she said she didn't. Oh well for her I guess.

>>2048235
Looks like a combination roller that can be used in a groove or on a single rail or used as a pulley for something like a corexy.
I don't see much difference in performance in a v-groove on your conventional carthesian printer.

>>2048243
>Not sure how I'm going to hide a 42hr print from her
Vase mode

>>2048228
>>2048237

i already soldered it together but it broke over time again and if it takes a month to arrive I'd rather get a free replacement. If they buy shit fans it's their job to replace it.

What kinda fucking cuck are you that you let companies fuck you in the ass and you not only fix it yourself but jump in the throat of people who don't let companies get away with their shit ass bullshit?

>>2048264
dude its a shitty fan anyways get a better one the stock fans suck ass theres a dozen other fans that work way better

>>2048206
>after half a roll, dont even try without an enclosure.
The only thing I can say to you is : git gud
I print ABS and ASA on my Ender 3 no problems and it's not enclosed.
ABS is the bitch here as it tends to warp a whole lot if you don't have good bed adhesion. ASA doesn't warp as much so if you nailed the process for ABS then it'll work for ASA too.

>>2047942
I use Devil Design as it's the cheapest I can get around here. It works quite well.
>Does it do any worse than ABS in any way?
All physical properties are the same so for most purposes it's ABS with less warp and UV resistance on top.

>>2048264
Just print yourself a Hero Me and use better fans

>>2048280
>git gud
ive put it on halt since i got no real use.
on my bed surface i can solve the warp issue entirely with abs juice, but im not soiling it for no reason.
If i need a rigid uv resistant part now, i just print it hollow in pla and do a cast

Any reason I'd get PTFE lined over all-metal if I'm running a 4020 sunon fan?

>>2048297
PTFE lining is better for PLA, PETG and ABS/ASA, AMHE is better for PC and nylon
Also bi-metal hotend is vastly superior:
https://www.3djake.de/bondtech/copperhead-heat-break

>>2048243
>I want to make something
>I consulted my wife
How do I print plastic without inhaling enough endocrine disruptors to cause a role reversal like this? I'm worried I'l turn into one of those guys who prints baby yodas.

>>2048297
bore is best desu

>>2048143
nice. I glued it together with silicone rtv and then melted the joints together that didn't really fit right and reinforced everything with ca glue.
I ended up melting the woofer into the case because it was leaking still even after siliconing it in.
I have some motorcycle amp on order that was tested for a solid 60w rms at 4ohmm. Maybe a more permanent speaker mount was a bad idea lol

>>2048124
If you want improvements you should just buy a Prusa

>>2048309
You don't. enjoy the groots, baby yoda's, and bernie with mittens.
Then drink Onions.

>>2048338
>Prusa
>improvement
AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
good one, Bob

>>2048203
Aweeeeoooweeeoooweeeooo

>>2048226
Because when you pay 200$ for a printer you are buying a piece of shit garbage, the chinks think that you are a fucking retard for expecting customer service and they treat you accordingly.

>>2048369
Tell me literally one thing the Prusa is not an improvement in...
Other than price of course.

>>2048381
Kinematics, it's still a bedflinger.

>>2048383
There's literally nothing wrong with bed flinging, it is the optimal kinematics setup for an ordinary basic printer.
And as for execution, the Prusa is worlds above anything Creality has to offer.

>>2048264
>Is he too stupid to know it's a loose wire or is the dumb fat american too poor to buy a 20 cent fan?
I think we've got our answer.

Understand that when you're buying a cheap Chinese printer, you essentially make an unspoken agreement that you're going to get shitty to non-existent customer service, and a good chance of something being broken on arrival. Prusa doesn't charge what they do because their parts or design are just that much better, most of that extra money you're paying goes into quality control and helping manchildren that can't replace a fan. You get what you pay for.

>>2048388
I mean yeah, for a cheap cartesian setup, they've got it pretty good. However, saying there's nothing wrong with the bed moving in the y axis is completely retarded. Regardless of how you look at it, say in comparison to a CoreXY, for a given speed you're going to have more ghosting, which in practice just means you're going to have to run it slower.

I wouldn't say that "Prusa is worlds above anything Creality has to offer" since Creality makes some decent more expensive machines that will outperform a Prusa, however, it's sort of retarded to buy an expensive Creality as you'd normally pay a premium for customer service before a better than standard performance. Prusa will either have to rely on their existing fanbase and name recognition or actually make the jump in improving their kinematic setup soon.

Prusa gets less tempting every day as the Chinks are catching up/passing in some respects. Creality releases a CoreXY and nobody bats an eye, if Prusa did it, the fanboys would run around screeching "Wait, is my cartesian bed flinger not perfect? Wait, Josef, j-just as good right? Haha, yeah, Prusa is only changing away from their old setup because it's cheaper, Prusa has changed, glad I got a printer from when they were still a half-decent company."

>>2048337
I used gasketing tape to seal the driver, which worked well and let me go back to threadlock the plug
>>2048224
seems like a fun project

Anyone notice a large increase in their electric bill after getting a 3D printer ? I’m curious. Surely running these for hours start to cost a lot

>>2048408
>that will outperform a Prusa
Only in your delusions
>Creality releases a CoreXY and nobody bats an eye, if Prusa did it, the fanboys would run around screechin
Why are you talking as if CoreXY was somehow worlds above a cartesian? In truth the only improvement is like 20% faster print speed which while nice does not really make that big of a difference.

>>2048414
It's actually not too bad, most of the energy required goes into heating the bed from room to operating temperature.
https://3dprinterly.com/how-much-electric-power-does-a-3d-printer-use/
Although, when I plugged in ten UM2's in my home, all at once (just for kicks), it did trip the breaker.

>>2048309
Bullshitting with her is not the same as consulting her

>>2048188
>>2048189
thank you bro. I will try my damndest to not electrocute myself. there's far too much shitposting left for me.

>>2048420
>CoreXY
Imagine if Creality released CroXY instead

>>2048420
>Only in your delusions
Depends on the machine buckaroo, like I mentioned Creality has some stupid expensive machines for what you'd expect to pay for a Chinese printer. Keep in mind that I don't mean Prusa is only going to fall behind Creality if they don't improve, it's all the other budget printers actually changing and improving with the times

>Why are you talking as if CoreXY was somehow worlds above a cartesian? In truth the only improvement is like 20% faster print speed which while nice does not really make that big of a difference.
Haha, holy shit, stop moving goalposts, you said "Tell me literally one thing the Prusa is not an improvement in..." then I slam your throat in, and your reply is "b-but, that like only 20% faster print speed". You're being the caricature I worked up as the screeching fanboy right now, "Wait, Josef, j-just as good right?". Eat shit and die retard.

>>2048230
forgot the substandard to even chinese spec parts that break at the factory and they refuse to honor their fucking warranty.

>>2048237
you left out that part where they are eat hoino and sharkin soup with aborted fetuses while insulting and cursing each other and patting themselves on the back for scamming the uncivilized barbarian rundeyes.

>>2048448
Sounds sick, where do I sign up? All you managed to do was make them seem really cool.

>>2048454
asian jews are never cool

Introducting, a new 3D printed invention... THE SMOKE DEFLECTOR™

>>2048445
If you ignore the crappy english the warranty service at creality isn't half bad. My Ender's screen button broke 3 weeks in and they sent me a new screen assembly, complete with the metal plate and everything.

If you start screeching autistically over a broken wire of course they'd rather take the piss instead of helping you.

>>2048465
they said straight up, not covered. so fuck them. everything had failed on mine. its like a goddamn cartoon.

>>2048444
>Depends on the machine buckaroo
Dude, even the most expensive machine Creality has is a shitty bowden tube machine with their default chinksy hotend, no E3D in sight. And this thing is 1000$
I'll admit that it has a large print area but the hotend certainly isn't up for it, this thing is begging for a volcano hotend and yet it is missing it.
>Haha, holy shit, stop moving goalposts
Shut the fuck up retard, 20% print speed is not an improvement for an ordinary machine considering the downsides of a more complicated and expensive kinematics setup. There's a reason your precious Creality went with cartesian even with this massive machine.

>>2048185
Your prints at your suggested nozzle diameter will look like they were hand drawn with a 3d pen by Michael j fox

>>2047908
>Printing at 150mm/s really isn't all that fast
You aren't actually reaching those speeds because of your acceleration and probably extrusion restrictions in the firmware of your machine...
In reality you're printing at 60mm/s

>>2048463
That wouldn't do a damned thing. It has to pull air from around the smoke detector to feed the fan.

>>2048488
Lmao literally lmao Accel is set to 4000 by default try again. I am still having adhesion issues because bare glass and fuck glue, and I'm trying to get the flow and esteps calibrated because something isn't right. But you're definitely wrong about the acceleration literally lmao

>>2048235
No. Roller based printers are inferior in every way

>>2048506
I meant compared to a roller like the stock rollers, not linear rails, but you knew that already.

>>2048498
Your machine isn't reaching 150mm/s print speeds. Simple as that, there are loads of restrictions on speeds other than just what you set in the slicer, they're there to keep people from fucking themselves over.
As for first layer adhesion, try dropping your print speed to 10 mm/s for the first layer.

>>2048506
Except cost.

>>2048484
>the most expensive machine Creality has is a shitty bowden tube machine with their default chinksy hotend, no E3D in sight
And that's a good thing. The CR-10 with the E3D direct drive is almost double the price of the original. A DD system from TL would set you back only 30-40$, not 200$.
Even their coreXY, the Ender 6, comes with the same extrusion system. They do this because it's cheap, it works okay-ish and they know that a lot of people will upgrade it down the line anyways so there's no reason to invest money in that.

I'm not here to defend the stock extrusion system, I'm here to remind you that most people buy into Creality to get an easily modded platform to work on. If this is not what you're looking for then that's okay, there are plenty of other companies offering 3D printers, you'll probably find something to suit your tastes out there.

>>2048529
Accel, jerk, and print speed. What else is there chief

>>2048529
And it's not the print speed causing adhesion issues, it pulls loose after an hour or so because it's bare glass

What kinda fucking extending cable I need to install a bltouch on an Ender6, and how the fuck do I ditch the shit ass bullshit flat hotend?
Any other upgrades I should think about? I have fancy new wheels but I'm not sure if they'd be even worth it to install.

>>2048542
Flow rate and firmware restrictions.
>>2048548
Slow print speed helps adhesion. You should also be maxing out your print bed temperature if you can't get it to stick otherwise.

>>2048549
You could either buy a 2 meter extension cable or make one.

>>2048595
But the connectors on the ends, what kind of connectors do I need? Also would wheels be worth replacing?
I've got 20 of these and they seem like a pretty good idea.

>>2048597
It's some kind of JST connector, I don't know the exact one, you'll have to look at a chart and compare it or search for it. You can just use Dupont connectors but if you go that route, make sure to hot glue the connector to the boards once you confirm it's working. But you can just search for "2m BLTouch cable" and purchase from whoever you want.
Not sure about the wheels, but if you have them already, might as well upgrade them!

I'm trying to design a 3D printable mechanism to push a plunger with the push of a button, transmitting force across 90 degrees.

I've come up with this ratcheting mechanism, when you push the button the tiny arm latches into the teeth and presses them forward.

I feel like I've hit a wall. Any other ideas?

>>2048605
Does it specifically need to be ratcheting? How far does the plunger have to go? Does it have to return to its original position?

>>2048465
it entirely depends on what marketplace you did buy.
Amazon? they work in your favor, seller has to obey
Baggood? expect week long discussion and proof video

>>2048498
>and I'm trying to get the flow and esteps calibrated because something isn't right.
well no shit when you run at 150
your hotend cant keep up and with nozzle temp sinking down to likely ~170°C, extrusion resistance is too high for consistent flow.

in FDM you can either print pretty and accurate, or print fast.

>>2048631
if he had a volcano hotend he could probably print that fast with no problems, dont you think? just the way the melt zone is so long thats a lot of melted plastic
if not it would be interesting to see some testing i bet someone has done it already

Do printers like this exist?

>>2048626
Whatever as long as it can exert a decent amount of force on a plunger.
I'm trying to make a 3D printed solder paste applicator.

>>2048684
theres a few on thingiverse if you just search for paste and go through the results

>>2048647
Yes, they did. But it didn't catch on. I guess there isn't much benefits, only added complexity + cantilever weakness.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7DaGoTDKbI

>>2048647
Those “concrete house 3D printers” sort of work like that but I don’t think any commercially available FDM machines are like that. Seems like your resolution near the center would suck and your extrusion rate would have to change constantly.

>>2048684
3d printed pulleys?

>>2048549
I like to print on a flat glass or mirror bed.
>a little bit of hair spray and everything sticks great and pops off easily when cool
>perfectly flat bottoms for sexy looking finished parts
>cheap compared to other print surfaces

Finally got Klipper installed. That was a huge pain in the ass! I hope it's worth it... All I have to do is configure it now but the hard part is done.

>>2048710
I've got some PVA schmoo, the Ender won't be my first printer.
Trying to gather if there's some things I need to upgrade straight off the bat.

>>2048498
There’s a 0% chance that your print head is moving at 150mm/s even though your set that in your slicer.

>>2048699
what about a deltabot with polar?

>>2048718
45 degree delta with polar

>>2048718
I am not sure what you mean by that. If you mean delta printer with turning bed - that makes no sense, because delta printer it's already working concept on its own.
Make a sketch of what you mean.

>>2048707
I thought about something like that using 3D printer belts, since I have some to spare.
>>2048691
Thanks, but those are more gun-like and kinda cumbersome to use.

>>2048715
There's. 100% chance you suck cock

>>2048647
Yes, they're typically called a polar setup, and for a commercial setup, you can look at a Polar 3D.
>>2048703
You've got it the wrong way around. The resolution at the center is perfectly fine, it's the farther out from the center of the table you get, the worse the resolution is. Imagine the minimum change of distance is the angular rotation X the radius from the center.

>>2048203
I'm coming!

For the last two days all of my prints have been failing. Up until this point I have never had a problem with bed adhesion, but now it seems like everything I print wants to fall over partway through. I can't even finish a temperature tower. I haven't changed any settings that I know of.
I am printing on a spring steel/PEI sheet. My first layers seem really nice and smooth. My initial layer has been at 60 degrees, and then subsequent layers are 45 degrees. I am printing with eSun PLA+, so I would think those temperatures are perfectly reasonable.
Is it possible for PEI to wear out? I've only been using this surface for like a month. I clean it regularly with alcohol. I even tried washing it with dawn soap. I also have acetone, but I am a little afraid to use it since that's how I fucked up my original print surface that came with my printer.

>>2048729
yeah a delta printer with a rotating bed

>>2048729
and it does make sense say the print head moves at 60mm/s well if you have the bed spinning at 30mm/s then your print speed is 90mm/s

>>2048235
not really, usually you have the normal rollers running inside of the extrusion groove already
you could run these ones on the corner/peaks of a 45° turned/mounted square tube instead of using guide rods or rails
/\
\/
depending on the application you know
maybe you want to mount, or have to mount something with an angle, the 45° give you better stability on the downward pushing/pulling force by transferring more load on the interface (roller/rail) construction itself as compared to 90° installations where mounts like common 3d printing heads tend to "hang in the air" and drag your carriage from the top to whatever direction it is facing parallel to the direction of the rail
__
| |

alternatively you can use them to make a carriage roll on thinner rods or even tensioned steel wire

have fun

>>2048811
I thought maybe it was a cheap trick to reduce manufacturing costs by using less material.

>>2048309
Purchase an air purifier

How do you guys access your webcam streams from outside your local network? I want to be able to see just the stream but all the plugins that I've tried for OctoPrint are remote OctoPrint control not just the webcam feed.

Should i get this or an fdm printer first. Trying to keep the total investment for getting started under $500. What would be a good fdm that can print nylon or petg with minimal mods in that price range? Thanks anons.

>>2048892
You can print PETG on any of the under $500 printers listed, but you are going to need to do some upgrades to print nylon. You should use an all-metal hotend due to the temps required (~250C). You should print in an enclosure to prevent warping. You should dry your nylon filament before printing. I don't think you will find a printer that prints nylon and meets those requirements for less than $500, but I could be wrong. However, an all-metal hotend can be a cheap upgrade if you buy a clone and enclosures are easy enough to make yourself, some people just use a cardboard box over their printer whereas some people have full custom enclosures with frames and everything. So it all depends on how much work you want to put in to it.

>>2048755
Why are you changing your bed temperature mid print? Changing nozzle temp makes sense as it can help adhere the first layer, but changing bed temp is a bit senseless. I've run eSun PLA+ in the past, 210 on the nozzle and 65 on the bed have worked for me.

>>2048896
It takes time to increase bed temp. If a higher bed temp is not required on the first layer setting it 10-20C lower than the final temp will reduce the time it takes to start a print significantly.

>>2048899
oh boy you only had to wait 1 minute instead of 2
give me a fucking break

>>2048905
Have you ever had to heat up a 300x300 bed up to 110C with a 12V power supply?
And even a two minute reduction is a huge deal since you'll want to be there to observe the first layer go down, it's less time spent standing next to your printer waiting for it to heat up.

>>2047613
diy is building the same thing from an inverted sanding belt for $35

>>2047831
are you being sarcastic?

>>2047942
you've seen me print PLA2 and PETG. I've never used ABS with the printer but I have it (and have tried it) with my pen.

>>2048206
>My bed despite being 200w has dificultys of getting up to 100°, at 80 it will stick but warp off.
wtf I though ASA was supposed to be easier than PETG for UV material.

>>2048463
>now burn your house down TWO ways with 3D printing

or

>the cheap shit chenise printer you bought started the fire
>the smoke alarm deflector you printed ensures it will finish

>>2048517
the groove would reduce mass thus reduce rotational inertia however it's most likely meant so you can use the same part for a rail or a pulley as some anon above pointed out and the physics advantage would be negligible.

>>2048909
just preheat your bed
>12v
lol

>>2048899
That post I originally replied to said the initial layer was put down at 60, then lowered to 45, so your post makes no sense.
>>2048909
>Have you ever had to heat up a 300x300 bed up to 110C with a 12V power supply?
Well, I own a CR10 so sorta, except I'd be waiting a long time, potentially eternity, to reach 110C given it only got up to 80C. Regardless I've got a mains heated bed now, so that's not a problem, up to 110C and beyond in no time.
>And even a two minute reduction is a huge deal since you'll want to be there to observe the first layer go down, it's less time spent standing next to your printer waiting for it to heat up.
Idk, go do something else productive and come back, it's not that hard. Also, the initial layer is the most critical, having you watch it does nothing, having it at the right temp does. Stop being such a fucking third worlder.

>>2048605

>>2048916
When you do the full DIY build with no kit, the plans actually call for industrial grade aluminum foil for the belt.

>>2048684
have you never looked at a caulk gun?

>>2048892
do you want to make:
miniatures for tabletop (SLA)
transparent pieces (SLA)
functional pieces (FDM)
"large" pieces (FDM)
lazy (FDM)

>>2048933
you mom said you were unplanned when I was pounding her in the ass

>>2048934
Heheh, you said caulk.

>>2048941
>>2048954
Listen here plebians: take your sophomoric humour elsewhere. This thread is for cultured and mature anons only.

>>2048628
Bought from official Creality website but contacted them on Ali for the replacement. Sure, I could have contacted them through their website but I'd have more chances of being chinked because they run the show there.

My experience with chinkshit sellers over the years is that acting like an entitled customer and reminding them of their legal obligations to fix your shit will have you wasting your time. You have much better chances of getting what you want if you sugarcoat things and offer to pay shipping if needed.

>>2048990
i never had to deal with that.
From people in another forum i know its best to insist on your right when they want you to meet in the middle, and always threaten with pulling your money back out.(ofcourse with the gear getting shipped back).
But hey, in my country online buyers are legally protected from fraud

>>2048892
You can get the Ender 3 to print Nylon and ABS/ASA with just a few cheap mods and some paper glue.

Here's the full checklist
>buy glass build plate, cover in glue when printing high temp stuff
>do the hotend fix with a piece of Capricorn PTFE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw))
>print a duct that doesn't leak cooling air on your print (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419531))
>connect the board cooling fan with the hotend fan so you have board cooling on at all times
>perform calibrations

>started a belt tensioning tool print
>First layer looked great went to bed
> Woke up to find a bunch of shells and string
>about to beat the SHIT out of printer for it's obvious failure
>Notice I had spiralize outer contour checked

>>2048894
>Ender 3V2 $260
>Microswiss all-metal hotend $65
>Capricorn tube & bed spring upgrade kit $18
>flat glass build surface & PVA glue stick $15

That’s pretty much my setup and I can print Nylon almost as well as ABS. You need to change the firmware to run at 290C once you put the new hotend on but it’s not very hard.

>>2048927
>Also, the initial layer is the most critical, having you watch it does nothing
It doesn't matter whether it goes down at 70C or 80C and it being critical it means that you've gotta observe it to make sure that it is good.

>>2048899
I think I know why your shits failing.

>>2049152
>It doesn't matter whether it goes down at 70C or 80C
Are you just trolling now?

Hey /diy/ anons, I'm looking into getting a mid/upper-mid range SLA printer, and was wondering what you'd recommend in the 250-400 USD price range. It seems like my choices are those below, although I'm sure there are other alternatives

-photon: photon S, photon mono SE
-elegoo: mars 2 pro
-phrozen: sonic mini 4k
-crealty: LD-002H


also, and this is a long shot, have any you had any experience with low irritant/biocompatible/medical grade resin, or applying biocompatible coatings to finished prints? I've seen a few dedicated dentistry resin manufacturers that sell it for around 500$ per liter, but I'm wondering what it's like to work with

>>2049152
What ethnicity are you?

Bros what is the "Clean Tank" function on my Mars Pro for? Is it just to harden up any leftover resin to make it less messy when I change the FEP?

>>2049242
Lmao

>>2049049
You should mention that if you live in a humid area that he needs an enclosure and to dry the filament in the oven before printing.

>tfw +70% humid year round

>your printer is only hitting 60mm/s at most
Ok

>>2049259
That's nowhere near even 60mm/s anon...

>>2049261
It's wavy as fuck, do the god damn math with an Accel of 4000 the printer is hitting the full 150mm/s within around 15mms or less of straight travel get lost

can we agree that designing for no supports is a waste of time 99% of the time?

>>2049266
No, fuck supports. Designing a part to not have supports is possible 95% of the time and often using supports is a sign of incompetence.

>>2049267
Agreed, if it's a functional print

>>2049267
I would rather optimize for shape infill and layer lines
I like to at least try to make a model work without supports AFTER it's finished but if I can't then it's no big deal

>>2049262
Show us it moving in a straight line

>>2049041
>Notice I had spiralize outer contour checked
We've all been there, not just once. But you should check your preview in Cura as well

>>2048990
So, what you're saying is bootlicking gets results. No thanks, I'd rather get something that doesn't break 3 weeks in that I have to grovel to get fixed.

>>2049239
Formlabs has a few biocompatible resins which are a little cheaper than $500/L, but I haven't used any of them. They're not necessarily bound to their printers, but I imagine you wouldn't get support if you try to use them with third-party machines. Pic is all I could fit in one cap, there's about a dozen IIRC

>>2047545
Not sure if these even exist, I tried looking up "rappling device" and nothing like this appeared. Essientially I want to design and build a device that would allow you to rapple upwards with this device, I assume there's two large wheels as least internally, but I also feel like you would need a huge power source to lift someone upward that is 150-250lbs?

>>2049282
>No thanks, I'd rather get something that doesn't break 3 weeks in that I have to grovel to get fixed.
Literally the entitled amerifat customer.
You may not know this but it's not just the chinks who can't stand this attitude. It's not bootlicking, it's appearing like a decent fucking human being.

Also imagine getting your jimmies rustled by what words you write on a screen and send to some random chinaman on the other side of the globe that couldn't care less about who you are.

>>2049274

>>2049300
Single wall test cube cube just for you princess, 200mm per side, 150mm/s speed on all settings. Resulting quality

>>2049302
Can I get a picture of a corner?

Does anyone have experience with photogrammetry?
I need to design clutch cover, would a 3d scan, with phone or kinect 360, be good enough to reverse engineer it?

>>2049303

>>2049303
Harder to get a crisp picture than I'd like

>>2049303

>>2049305
I mean, that'd be a super easy part to model in Solidworks or something, I'm not sure why you'd want to go through the pain of using photogrammetry.

>>2049313
Yeah it should be. I already have bolt pattern and gasket grove sketched in fusion. Just wondering if it's doable. Maybe I'll give it a try sometime.

>>2049305
I would scan the bottom with your average scanner and convert it to png or svg, import it into fusion or whatever, extrude and finish the top, really easy, no measurements needed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pioFLkESD8

>>2049292
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1fxO0bGGps
This is the most effective I've seen

>>2047626
that's not a violin that's a leaning tower

>>2048043
Damn, I had the idea of doing something very similar but in such a worse way. Not that I was ever going to pursue it, nice to see, I've been daydreaming of multicolor printing since forever. Printing the white and glow frog was so fucking based too. The future looks good boys.

>>2049327
There's something wrong with the violin model I'm trying to use, I'm still figuring that one out. It keeps crashing into the bed whereas other prints with the same settings in cura are fine

>>2048051
I don't know free cad but I would start with a triangle of measurements then center-circle on each point.

>>2049259
>>2049261
>>2049274
>>2049300
>>2049303
>>2049306
>>2049307
>>2049311
CARTESIAN FAGS ON SUICIDE WATCH

>>2049336
so I've had trouble with levers aligned off my bed like /
even tho they are at a totally printable angle as the lever gets longer it starts to deform and either be out of plane with the head or simply snaps off the bed and falls over.

>>2048300
>https://www.3djake.de/bondtech/copperhead-heat-break
Bimetal best for PLA too?

>>2049349
Copper helps with the heat transfer, which is nice for any material.. Another advantage for the all metal is that the PTFE tube will melt when printing high temp materials.

>>2049339
I mean it was originally a $950 printer retail, if I feed it good gcode it should perform.

>>2049248
It shines unfiltered UV light in there so you can easily get the remaining resin out

>>2049311
would linear advance square those corners better?

>>2049300
>>2049302
Dude, that's not 150mm/s that's 40mm/s at most, are you fucking retarded or what?

>>2049378
Smoothieware doesn't have linear advance unfortunately. And I can't figure out how to get marlin working on this printer

I'm looking to buy a 3D printer, and I'm wondering if any of you have had experiences with the stuff in the $500 tier.
Is it really that much better? I'm interested in making snuffboxes so the tolerances have to be fairly tight, but I'm also a total beginner.

>>2049339
Can't you see his results? they're garbage, and at those low speeds as well, no idea why cartesians would be seething.

>>2049381

>>2049381
not that guy but I'd kill for walls printing at 40mm/s

>>2049393
My Ender 3 Pro is doing that right now
Also Dassault is kill

>>2049292
First of all, you are going to get nowhere with the wrong search terms. There is no such thing as "rappling". There are these two related terms:
Grappling/grapnel device - a device with a grappling hook on the end of a rope. The grapnel is a metal hook with multiple curved points that aid in hooking the hook to something (think Batman's grappling hook)
Rappelling device - a device used to aid in rappelling, which is the act of going DOWN something, be it a building or a cliff (think Special Forces coming down from the ceiling or a helicopter)
Now, both of these things do exist, so you can focus your research with the proper terms. I'm not sure about going u, but going down, you can research what they use to come down ropes from helicopters or there is an emergency device used in skyscrapers where they toss a rope out the building and then there is a device attached to the rope that carries people to the ground, then the device goes back up for the next person.

>>2049383
You can get good tolerances on even a $200 printer that's properly tuned. Search for "print in place" to see examples of parts that are printed together yet move. I'm guessing your boxes will be two separate pieces, and properly tuned 3D printed should be able to print a box with a tight lid. This is all assuming the models are good.
Check this link for some relevant models
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Snus&type=things&sort=relevant

>tfw downloaded 2 webm converter apps on phone to show my printer fling its bed at 100mm/4000accel
>both videos not compatible
eh, it's not important enough to get out of bed for it
>>2049382
did you try Klipper to adjust corner speed and smoothing? also what's the volumetric limit of a 50W vulcano hotend?
>>2049393
what is holding you back?

>>2049419
gotta ender 2, gonna try a few upgrades to see if i can get faster than 20mm/s

>>2049419
Why use an app on your mobile? I'm guessing you use Webm for Retards on your computer. On mobile, use this site
https://video.online-convert.com/convert-to-webm

>>2049419
>>2049450
Oh yeah, use VP8 and no sound to make it work here

>>2048896
>>2048927
The reason I started fucking with changing the bed temperature during a print was to try and get rid of the elephants foot effect that I get pretty regularly. I read somewhere that lowering your bed temperature after the initial layer helps to prevent the weight of the print from squashing the first couple layers more than they need to be.
It seemed to work once, but I haven't been able to replicate it.
I have also moved the location of my prints from the center of the bed and this seems to be helping a lot; this brings me back to my original question. Can a PEI surface wear out from printing in one location repeatedly? Is there a way to fix it? I've only been using this surface for like a month so even if things can wear down I feel like that is extremely fast.
Also, if fucking with my bed temperature mid-print is causing these kinds of issues, what else should I try to fix my elephants foot problem? I've tried playing with temperature and speed, but I don't know what else to do.

>>2049393
Any ordinary 3d printer should be able to

>>2049419
Haven't tried klipper, no. Would be better off getting a new board and trying marlin again probably. No idea what the volumetric limit is but I'm sure someone has already done the work and posted it somewhere

I just read something very troubling... should I NOT be cooling my curing station? Is heat really that helpful to the curing process?

>>2049496
It's an exothermic reaction so

>>2049419
>the volumetric limit of a 50W vulcano hotend
Not that dude but it has no problem printing with a 1mm nozzle at 0.3 layer height and 80mm/s XY feedrate. You do the maths for the actual volume.

Hey boys. I was making something that needed to have the layer lines smoothed for hygienic reasons, and when trying to smooth the ABS with acetone vapor, it just made the outside layer gummy, and eventually the whole part rubbery, though the layer lines were still there.
Particularly, I'm using Hatchbox white ABS. I was suspicious when it printed a little too easily and didn't produce any strong odors, so if I had to guess the filament is the problem with the smoothing.

Any of you guys able to confirm that, or have any recommendations on what ABS to use to vapor smooth?

>>2049509
What're you putting in your ass, anon?

>>2049510
Hopefully not the thing I'm printing as a friend's birthday gift.

>>2049510
>>2049517
Now that I've shown my wicked sick butt plugs, mind actually answering my question?

>>2049509
The cheapest ABS you can get is the best since it's far more likely to be just ABS without any additives or other plastics mixed in.
But for cookie cutters you're far better off printing with PLA if you ask me. You should be far more concerned by the microplastics you might ingest than the miniscule amounts of bacteria that can grow between the layer lines. Most people don't make cookies every week so by the time the next special occasion comes around the microscopic niggers have dried off and died.

>>2049393
and this guy is pushing 800 mm/s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibsBiALMMSE

>>2049469
you could try printing on a raft that should take up the first few layer squish and give you a better result in the z axis

>>2049553
I really would like to build one of those but the BOM is like $1200 or something

>>2049553
That's pretty impressive, but I wonder how it does on a model that wasn't specifically designed for this sort of testing.

>>2049582
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZDuX6hcd28

>ender 3, direct drive, klipper, input shaper, pressure advance, abl with induction sensor
>0.4/0.2mm, abs, 230/100C, 45C in chamber, no cooling, 100-150mm/s, 2000 accel, 0.7mm retract, 2h print
What could still be improved on this print? I'm planning to print 'em in volume.

>>2049586
Bridging is atrocious bottom left

>>2049574
bidenbux soon though unless you got something better to spend it on

>>2049321
That does seem pretty cool
>>2049402
I was certainly very wrong about the terms. The device that goes up, then goes down. It ceetainly seems like that device, but I definitely want to make it to hold people to go up. Which would be a pretty big challenge.

>>2049584
this proves the bltouch isnt just for chinkshit printers with warped beds like some anon said a few threads ago very cool printer especially this triple z autoleveling bed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aL7pEEHTTe4

>>2049589
I make too much I don't get any bidenbux fuck them

>>2049586
What is it? Looks like a drive tray.

>>2049597 Yep.

>>2049596
well shit if you make too much for the paltry stimulus then you shouldnt have any issues dropping a couple grand on a cool toy like that

>>2049608
Everybody thinks that but I have dependants

>>2049586
Looks about like what you'd expect from chinkshit.
Should have bought a Prusa if you wanted more.

>>2049611
damn well if you really wanted one you could save up enough money im sure just cut your caviar and champagne budget in half for a couple of months

>>2049615
You realise the bidenbux cutoff is only 85,000 right

Are linear rails that great of an upgrade on the Ender 3?

>>2049621
It’s not worth the cost unless you wanna print super fast.

>>2049612
My Prusa and my slightly upgraded Ender 3 V2 print the same quality.
>hurr durr I took the bait
Fuck I’m tired of you.

First week with the printer, should I re locate the psu when I make the full enclosure? Ordered a bl touch and have the urge to do more un necessary upgrades for the fuck of it

>>2049586
I’d use support under that bridge. Tree support in Cura is pretty good if you have the patience to tweak it.

>>2049626

>>2049626
>>2049629
Some people like to move all the electronics out of the enclosure but I think it might only matter if it's going to be heated. Keeping it in there might help keep the enclosure warm if you don't plan on heating it.

>>2048934
Caulk guns are deceptively simple. They rely on the metal tabs binding onto the bar. PLA has a low friction coefficient. Idk, I could try it. Thanks.

FUCKING ARC WELDER was commanding my hotend -19783 mm below the fucking bed piece of shit

>>2049637
I seem to remember the teaching tech guy tested a few premade enclosures which leave the electronics inside and that didn't go so well, but he lives in Australia so maybe overheating is more of a problem there

>>2049620
im just fucking with you i cant afford one either ;_;

>>2049626
Print yourself some heavier weights bro

Hello to anyone interested, I find myself in a weird position in trying to find spare parts for an old vhs player, the model is vc-ac554 that lacks the ring for rewind and fast forward and the 3 buttons that nest inside.
Since i can't find them anywhere for sale the best option might be to print them, but this has another trouble, I do not have a way to take measures and make the file.
anyone knows where i can find this information, or anyone that has the actual player could be kind enough to measure the pieces?

>>2049620
"only"

>>2049759
Can you post a picture of your player missing the dial? How does the dial actually interface with the player?

>>2049759
Couldn't you use the size of buttons that are there as a size reference to get yourself in the ballpark? That picture is at a bit of an angle so it isn't ideal, but maybe something like that.

>first time printing trimmer wire
>285/105C, no cooling
>wire tangled up leading to this failure
>accel was still set to 10k from tests
I'll try the parts for my rc-car-project and see how the warping is. I asked around a bit and others are printing at 265C, might gain some improvements there
>>2049626
>more unnecessary upgrades
time to order that bmg v2 extruder, the mosquito-clone with the clamp-adapter, a pei flexsheet and a rpi4. don't forget the silent fans and such
>>2049586
the bottom right pic looks meh, first though is lose belts but then again maybe just redesign the area to have a one perimeter thick wall instead of the holes there, will probably save you time as well

>>2049759
Your best bet is probably trial and error. Just print some dials at measurements you think might fit and go from there. Or you can buy a different model Sharp VHS and use that knob since I think they're all identical.