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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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2020329 No.2020329 [Reply] [Original]

Metallurgy General

Question Time:
How do you feel about Metallurgy being phased out of most colleges in lieu of the material science fags?
Are the "zinc shakes" real?
Which grade ASTM Carbon Steel should you use for a blade?

>> No.2020334

>>2020329
What kind of knife? I recommend 1040. Those Z17CRNI451 sissy custom alloy fags can go die.

>> No.2020339

>>2020334
1040 is what I fucking use to file my taxes I ain't using that shit in a knife.
O2 Tool steel or fucking bust

>> No.2020343

>>2020339
May I also recommend you harden your dick with an oil quench?

Ok, I'll give you 52100. If it is good enough for ball bearings it is good enough for a knoife.

>> No.2020416

>>2020329
>how do you feel about metallurgy being phased out of most colleges in lieu of material science
I think they didn't go far enough actually. They should merge materials science, chemical engineering, mechanical engineering, civil engineering, and electrical engineering into one engineering degree. Hell while we're at it throw in physics, chemistry, economics, sociology, and genders studies.
It starts with saying a metallurgist needs to understand polymers and ceramics to have a well-rounded understanding of materials, then the next thing you know you're memorizing the periodic table of currently discovered genders because you accidentally offended someone by saying "binary phase diagram."

>> No.2020427

>>2020334
1040 is on the lower end of carbon content for plain carbon steels you would want to use for a blade. It could work for a sword where you need a lot of toughness, but closer to 1055 is more common. For a knife you want to be somewhere around 1080.

>> No.2020899

>>2020427

I use my knives for retarded shit so I don't want it breaking off when I try to remove that nail and if it does break I don't want to pay for weird sintered stainless turbine blade alloys.

What about those low alloy medium carbon grades like 4140? More hardenable and can grain refine amd carburize but does that translate into better blades than a 1040?

I'm imagining a carburized 4140 would be best of both worlds.

>> No.2020905

>>2020329
What's recommended for making a heavy duty chopper? Like a machete or bill with a 1/4" spine. I would be content with buying the stock and then grinding it into shape and then I could steal blacksmith valor by telling people I "forged" a custom blade.

>> No.2021282

>>2020905
Can you heat treat? If not, get a nice slab of hardened 4140 from McMaster Carr (cheap bit pretty soft!) Or go full retard and get their prehardened AR500. If you CAN heat treat just get any cheap high carbon tool steel.

>> No.2021729

>>2020329
I'm more concerned with how about once a month you foundry speds manage to drop me one "4340" bar in a bundle that registers about 55 rockwell.

>> No.2021750

>>2021729
Metallurgy secrets!

The ends of the bars tend to get really hard after hot rolling. Sometimes they aren't cut back and discarded and are made worse at the cold roller.

>> No.2022255

>>2020329
Recomend books about basics, silver-copper??

>> No.2022455

>>2022255
Jewelery focused? Casting or forging?

>> No.2022511

machinist gang in the house

foundry plebs only work to plus or minus a foot

>> No.2022516

>>2022511
I'll make sure to send some scale into your steel! Blow up your insert!

>> No.2023388

Bumperion

>> No.2025317

Are Indian metallurgists as bad as everybody says?

>> No.2025618
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2025618

Anybody know where I can get a material with roughly the same mechanical properties as lead, but not as dense or toxic?

>> No.2025630

>>2025317
Lets just say, youll find indian steel on the side of the streets.

>> No.2025643

>>2025618
zinc or tin

>> No.2025654
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2025654

Electron microscope image of stainless steel

>> No.2025850

>>2025654
Must have been before heat treatment

>> No.2025870

>>2025850
>>2025654

>When your stainless steel is low Nickel

>> No.2025873

>>2025618
Indium. Or just melt a ton of leadfree solder.

>> No.2026320

>>2025643
>>2025873
Thanks, but I've decided to just stick with rubber bullets instead.

>> No.2026488

>>2026320
Why not cured glass filled resin?

>> No.2026499

>>2026488
rubber bullets are more reusable.

>> No.2026590

>>2026499
Hobby compressed air target shooting...?

>> No.2026726
File: 540 KB, 1000x1325, 765897687567567657656598766546456.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2026726

after several successful aluminum runs, today i tried Red brass.
With only a woodfire it managed to liquify in full flame but temperature was not up enough for a proper casting. only did ingots in the end.
Oh well, time for Coal. Next up will be Aluminiumbronze.

Does anyone have experience with Aluminiumbronze? is it worth it if i can only do a 9/1 mix without further additives?

>> No.2026969

>>2026726
What do you mean by "worth it"?

>> No.2027793

>>2026726
Be sure to add a shot of black.

>> No.2028382
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2028382

>>2026969
well, commercial alloys do almost always contain iron or nickel to some extent, but with my setup i will never be able to get it that hot
>>2027793
Forgot the shot of black but it was a success anyway

I switched fuel to woodchips i shovel in. It is a lot fucking hotter (and more hungry) than with solids, but i have to cast a proper refractory lid for my abomination.
pic is 2kg of aluminum bronze ingots, one huge step closer to a proper cast

>> No.2028427

>>2028382
>Wood chip fired smeltery

Soft woods or hard woods? I guess the only step up would be sawdust for more surface area but glad that chips work for you.

>> No.2028431

>>2028427
this year is good stuff, mostly ash and beech with some white oak.
In the quantities needed this is pretty much free for me minus the labor. Compared to a 20LB propane tank which is 40€

>> No.2028482

>>2028431
next smelt im also hooking up a thermocouple and play around with air/fuel ratio, aswell as doing a more evenly distribution of inlet air

>> No.2029080

>>2028482
I bet if you pretreated the chips in a slightly-vented metal trashcan you could knock out the water and volatiles and open up the grain for hotter burning.

>> No.2030081

I've got a bunch of copper I ripped out of broken electronics, and it's not enough to make it worth running to a scrap yard and selling. Is there any kind of fun projects I can make with this stuff? I know copper is useful in distilling alcohol, but that kind of project is kind of beyond me for now. Also I imagine this stuff isn't exactly pure copper so I'd be making a frankenstein esque pot, and no telling what other shit inside said copper would leech into the alcohol.

I guess tldr what are fun projects with copper ingots.

>> No.2030804

>>2030081
You can use it to generate some copper salts or maybe practice electro refining to make some pure stuff.

>> No.2032252

Bamp

>> No.2033325
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2033325

Parents gave me this book for Christmas and it's beautifully illustrated, but I'll be damned if the author isn't so damn annoying. Didn't even mention X-ray targets or PFDs. I guess it's my fault for reading SCIENCE! books written for the filthy casuals (Disappearing Spoon and Rust were frequently retarded too).

>> No.2033691

>>2033325
Did they even mention grain boundary diffusion kinetics!?

>> No.2033750

>>2033691
Well it's a pretty picture book for different applications of every element and not really technical text. Though my point being they wasted so much space shilling (now obsolete) CFL bulbs and failed to mention several important applications of tungsten.

>> No.2033828

>>2033325
Personal Floatation Devices?

>> No.2033901

>>2033750
You know your book is good when it shills asbestos.

>> No.2033929

>>2020329

>metallurgy

I was and still kinda am interested in the topic from design POV , but other stamping die designers (we make transfer dies for automotive) and other guys from toolshop say that for our lost foam castings supplier foundry doesn't put pure cast iron, but lots of other shit and die casts are fucked at times by 18mm in places.

>> No.2034059

I am in the market for a brass-like metal that has the mechanical properties of brass but is more impact and scratch resistant that isn't as heavy as King Kong's balls or a Morman missionary's backpack.

>> No.2034076

>>2033828
plasma facing devices

>> No.2034094

>>2034059
If you want a light alloy you're pretty much restricted to magnesium, aluminum, or titanium.

Magnesium is typically comparatively weak, soft, and brittle. But it is used for the lightest engineering alloys.
Aluminum can easily exceed the strength of brass. With 7000 series you can get close to 200 Hv. Certainly not as impact resistant as steel, but still ductile.
Titanium is much more expensive and is denser than aluminum, but can achieve a greater strength to weight ratio. Vickers hardness over 400 Hv.
And of course there's beryllium alloys if you don't care about cancer.

Generally within a series of similar alloys increasing hardness/strength results in a reduction in toughness/impact resistance. There are some ways these boundaries can be pushed, but not indefinitely.

>> No.2034120

>>2033929
Cast iron is easy to """make""" but hard to make.

>>2034059
Very well aged aluminum (Or steel, it's less heavy than brass you dumdum).

>> No.2034155

>>2034094
>>2034120
Appreciate, metalheads

>> No.2034162

>>2034094

>light alloy
>brass

dude what

>>2034059

What "mechanical properties"? Depending on what you're looking for, either aluminum or steel is superior in every way. Brass is valuable specifically for its corrosion resistance and electrical conductivity. Even the most robust brass alloys are not comparable to high-strength steels, yet it's still heavier than aluminum (and steel, for that matter).

>> No.2034225

>>2034162
>that isn't as heavy as King Kong's balls or a Morman missionary's backpack

>> No.2034393

>>2025654
But I only stick it in my kiln for a 20min soak time normally and it doesn't complain nearly as much

>> No.2034493

>>2020329
in my country metallurgy usually refers to machining and welding, and what you're referring to is called siderurgy
i got in contact with the metalworkers union here and did some courses until i found out that what actually interested me was siderurgy
so, how do i get into the trade? do i need to be a chemist or something?

>> No.2034503

>>2020329
what about recycling a car spring? theyre usually made with top quality steel

>> No.2034798

>>2034162
>>2034094
Thanks, I should've been more clear. I plan on installing hardware (think locks, clamps, guard plates, nails) to a wooden travel case and need something that:
- won't corrode in an underwater shipwreck
- scratch resistant
- impact resistant (especially against other suitcases)
- Can hold well under the weight of a serial Big Mac lover
- won't chip from an "oopsy" drop from the second floor of an apartment complex.

>> No.2034884

>>2034798
Stainless Steel, high grade

>> No.2034885

>>2034884
got it boss

>> No.2034890

>>2034884
Sorry, so, 309-316 or are we talking 420 and 440c+?

>> No.2034897

>>2034798
IDGAF about materials other than metals, but wouldn't wood degrade quickly in an underwater shipwreck?

>> No.2034915

>>2034897
>but wouldn't wood degrade quickly in an underwater shipwreck?
Yes.
But with this one I'm covering it.

>> No.2034930

>>2034890
Oh, SUBMERGED salt water, like DEEP? 318 duplex. Low oxygen environments fug with stainless passivation, you need duplex's extra Cr. Also it work hardens so banging out and bending parts and nails and shit makes them nice and hard.

>>2034493
Yeah, metallurgy is basically chemistries of solid solutions.

>> No.2035425

>>2034493
There are engineering programs for metallurgical engineering at universities (or "Materials Science" at pozzed (most) universities). Just taking a chemistry program would not prepare you well for being a metallurgist. Unless maybe you were specializing in corrosion or extractive metallurgy.

>> No.2035630

>>2035425
I assumed he meant "basic knowledge of". But yeah, the chemists taking metallurgy courses were usually the extractive guys going to mines or electrochem plants.

>> No.2035659

Post your metallurgy pickup lines here.
You must have a very fine grain size because I you're hot and I want to creep on you.

>> No.2035666

>>2035659
I'm the man of steel.

>> No.2035687

>>2035666
I'd love to faggot weld with you

>> No.2035795

>>2035687
You ever been dick-to-dick with another man welding inside a tank only to realize he has a boner? It isn't as fun as fags make it sound.

>> No.2036334

>>2035666
check'd

based and steelpilled

>> No.2037571

>>2030081
the only thing in electrical copper that might be bad is lead. there is a pretty good chance that after melting it the lead will boil off and no longer be there.

the best thing for copper in bulk like that is as a learning medium for black smithing.

you can use it in:
>electroplating
>making copper wire via a wire press-die
>as a fill material in making aluminum-bronze
>makes food safe utensils and cookware
>rudimentary tools that work on wood working
>practice medium for machining (you can use a wood lathe and steel tools to practice with).

>> No.2038230

>>2037571
What scrap can I alloy copper with to make the lowest melting point open-sand casting "decorative" alloy?

>> No.2039070
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2039070

>>2037571
Copper is a very good metal to cold work. It's soft enough at room temperature after annealing that you can hammer it like hot iron. You can learn a lot about manipulating metal.

It's impractical to hammer at a high temperature because of it's thermal conductivity.

Great material for learning how to braze metals together if you have any brazing rods.

>> No.2039104

Are you guys where I can ask for blacksmithing books to read?
I want to get into smiting as a hobby.

>> No.2039107

>>2039104
Smithing*

>> No.2039110
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2039110

>>2039104
>smiting

>> No.2039219

>>2039104
What kind of blacksmithing? Utility, artistic, autistic?

>> No.2039232

>>2039219
Autistic I assume
Whatever is most fun and makes money honestly

>> No.2039236

>>2039232
Oh... PROFITABLE blacksmithing? That's a different story. I unironically recommend old books, like 1880-1920 then. All you need for that is charcoal, wood, an air source, a hammer, and a chunk of steel. Only classical methods get hipster money. The rest is YEARS of experience and and a decade or more of physical strengthening. New books will be disadvantageously descriptive of costly modern methods.

>> No.2039244

>>2039236
Oh nice, I'm sure I can find tons of stuff from then. Many thanks friend!

>> No.2039252

>>2020416
Unironically what liberal arts degrees think.

>> No.2040057

>>2038230
copper has a low enough melting point aluminum bronze is an alloy that makes aluminum stronger. compared to real bronze it is stronger and doesn't loose its properties when melted, so no need to add more aluminum or other metals.

as a decorative alloy... I would copper plate zinc. zinc has a low melting temperature and is used a a VERY cheap but degradative alloy for strength.

>> No.2040403

Got a pastebin or beginner's website. /metal/?

>> No.2040565

>>2020329
>> Are the "zinc shakes" real?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever

>> No.2040752

>>2040565
yeah, never stand over smelted metal and do it in an open well ventilated area.

>> No.2041776

>>2040565
People don't understand why I rant about welding stainless without their papr system.

>> No.2041931

>>2041776
PPE is for gays

>> No.2042101
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2042101

>tfw you smell that sweet sweet zink

>> No.2042114
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2042114

>>2028382
Little late to this but have been working with aluminum bronze the last couple weeks as well, finally got a good enough cast for a putter, how did you cast anything yet, had a lot of issues with shrinkage but eventually got it down

>> No.2042115

All these fags that are scared of zinc shakes, stop being a pussy and drink some damn milk

>> No.2042241

>>2042114
Use a riser next time.

>> No.2042281

>>2026726
that anon again

ive since upgraded my foundry by smearing refractory cement in the cracks and cast a proper lid, despite the fire maxing out a k-type i still struggle to get copper alloys melted. Tried some Brass fittings yesterday, some melted while others didnt.

how do i improve from here? Is this an issue of oxides forming? Ive read smashed beer bottles make a nigger rig tier flux, anyone tried that before?

>> No.2042873

>>2042281
Even with coal? Maybe your forced air is too fast or blows OVER the fuel not THROUGH it?

>> No.2042886

>>2039070
>Copper is a very good metal to cold work
copper is based
t. electrician copper hoarder

>> No.2043121
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2043121

>>2042873
kinda looks like this
Coal is hard to com by for now and im not sure the consumption rate could be absurd high. Maybe i can get some as that would surly solve my issues

air comes in at bottom level center of circle, not tangential. As swirly vortex with tangential pipe does not work when the pathway is blocked by solid fuel.
Pipe has a deflector on it so the air gets pushed out sideways instead of directly onto the crucible.
Fuel has a tendency to collect on the backside due to the airflow, i always dump in new fuel on the Air supply side when its mostly burned away.
I regulate the airflow (and speed) with a motor speed regulator, mostly at around ~130V so in the range of 40-60% blower capacity

Crucible stands on small feet for greater heat exposure
Thingy i can think of modifying.
1. higher feet, on the crucible
2. round air duct on the bottom modeled out of refractory cement for more even air distribution, would also aid in superheating the incoming air.
Will loose fuel capacity from that thou and i risk clogging it up with ash
3. Fuel. Either score a bag of coke or install a primitive drip oil feeder in the air pipe

>> No.2043139

>>2020416 Well that's a 22 year program assuming the first 2 years are gen-eds and every other major you're rolling in is about 2 years of specialized classes

>> No.2043541

>>2043121
You have wood, make CHARcoal. Or at least precook the volatiles and water out of your logs. Crucible should never be near unburning or fresh fuel.

>> No.2043928

>>2033901
>>>2033750
>You know your book is good when it shills asbestos.
Even better, cutting co2 is gonna save the hole dam wurl!!!

>> No.2044019

>>2033325
That writer is such a faggot.

>> No.2044976

I'm a CS-fag who currently tries to learn a little about metallurgy, because I am involved in simulating metal solidification at work.
Can you recommend some kind of books or other resources for someone who already knows basic physics and math?

>> No.2045190

>>2044976
If you want to understand your FEA better I recommend chemical and physical metallurgy AKA phase diagrams out the ass. I'll go find my books when I am at my library.

>> No.2045389

>>2035795
Better than being stuck hood down in the same scenario dick-to-ass.

>> No.2045408

>>2020329
Depends on what the blade is for. College is a wageslavery meme for faggots.

>> No.2045413

>>2026726
With forced air I used motor oil to melt steal...

>> No.2045414

>>2028382
Cast-o-light 3,000

>> No.2045415

>>2028427
Turning into charcoal but even still the effort vastly outlays other fuels.

>> No.2045418

>>2030081
Oh boiiiii.

Electro plating on youtube. Have fun. I've been doing the same. Sadly we can't have any real fun since the good chemicals take licenses and shit but a trip to the hardware store can yield some fun. And a lot of handy shit can be done with electroplating. I frequent redneck auctions, use electrolysis for cleaning and harvesting rust oxide for termite, and then plate shit with copper wire and the nickel guitar strings. In a weekend of dicking off and $8 I can triple the value of handy old tools that almost met the crusher.

>> No.2045420

>>2034059
Can you say what it's for an a budget? There are alloys stronger than steel and lighter than aluminum bit the cost and manufacturing processes make shit crazy.

Your best bet is likely quality cast aluminum unless you want to let us all into the bat cave of secrets Harry.

>> No.2045422

>>2034094
Nvm. This guy gets it. Titanium and magnesium can catch fire tho so be careful.

Then again termite is just aluminum and rust.

>> No.2045425

>>2034798
If it's a wooden travel case use titanium and impregnate the wood with epoxy

>> No.2045427

>>2036334
Satin is a faggot and a welder. The only more sure guess is that moot is a faggot

>> No.2045472

>>2039110
The electric fence pence memes of 2016 election were GOLD

>> No.2045473

>>2039232
KEK!

Obviously.

>> No.2045475

>>2040565
>>2040752

I'm 90% sure I permanently retarded myself melting wheel weights as a kid

>> No.2045476
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2045476

>>2041931
You shitcunt I can't fucking walk or breathe because I neglected ppe


I was also nearly blinded.

The ppecucks are the only ones to enjoy life after wageslavery

Being tough doesn't matter if you are a crippled statistic you useless fucking cockstain. Kys

>> No.2045953

>>2044815
why does the dude dig around the gear on the drag side?
Ive seen this a few times before from people knowing their shit.
Bumblefuckers like me generally leave the underside of the cope flat on parts with a straight floor

>> No.2046205
File: 20 KB, 700x317, math.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
[ERROR]

Does metal plating go here? First time I've seen a metallurgy general. Anyhow I'm about to start electroplating some shit and apparently you can plate steel with copper, zinc, nickel, and chrome all in one, but I still haven't found a reason for plating with copper. Zinc serves as a sacrificial anode, nickel and chrome work as a harder corrosion resistant layer. Also, are hexavalent/trivalent chromate conversion coatings the same as "chrome plating"?

>> No.2046369

>>2046205
cat on top:
cat+table-turtle=c+b-t=170

turtle on top
turtle+table-cat=t+b-c=130

Truth:

c+b-t=170

t+b-c=130

Therfore:

c+b-t=170
...
then
c+b-t-40=130

Then:
c+b-t-40=130=t+b-c

Then:
c+b-t-40=t+b-c

(c)-(t)-(40)=(-c)+(t)
-c
(-t)-40=(-2c)+(t)
+t
(-40)=(-2c)+(2t)
/2
-20=c+t

im legit rertarded

>> No.2046381

>>2042115
Stop doing stupid white trash shit like not grinding off galvanizing before welding and failing to provide aggressive ventilation when melting zinc-y items. It's easy.

Dying for scrap metal is pathetic and stupid. It killed this fool who knew better but thought he was a special boy and just HAD to play with his scrap the wrong way.

https://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor.php?lesson=safety3/demo

>> No.2046394

>>2046205
Copper bonds better for mechanically strong coatings. Also no, that makes Chromates not metallic Chrome.

>> No.2046551

>>2046381
I do all my shit outside however I did melt a ton of brass casings last weekend. Well lads least I drank my milk

>> No.2046565

>>2046369
You just have to add the first and the second equations
(I) + (II): c + (-c) + b + b + c + (-c) = 300
=> 2b = 300
=> b = 150
It's interesting, because at first you would think, because there are only two linear equations over three variables, it's under-defined.
But if you play around with it a little, you'll see that it's actually one equation over two variables (the one you derived) and one over one variable (the one I derived) mixed together.

>> No.2046587

>>2020329
>Which grade ASTM Carbon Steel should you use for a blade?
1070 or 1080
They're really easy to heat treat and can produce a practical, tough blade that will take a fine edge. Neither I would rate very well for edge holding but they're both very cheap and if you're inclined will forge very well. Stay away from 1095, it requires a fast quench oil and is considerably less tough than the other 2
O1 is very common but not what I'd call a starter tool steel due to the soak time at temp and the grain reduction cycles you need to do to make a good blade, 80CRV2 is probably the easiest of the tool steels and extremely tough with a bit better edge holding, plus you can forge it.

>> No.2046665

>>2046587
Something I never understood about Bladefags was their extreme need for "edge retention". They want to be able to whittle aerospace aluminum and then go for a shave.

It's like aduiophiles buying $4856 24V DC fuses in duplicate because "Slow blow is better for bass".

If I told a bladefag that 1080 with a good temper made a good knife they'd throw their sintered 2V8Cr9Mn5Mg9Al34N33Hf autism blade with 2000x cryo cycles and depleted uranium shotpeening at me.

>> No.2046723

>>2046381
HE NEED MILK

>> No.2046916

>>2046665
The short answer to your question about “bladefags” and their edge retention is this:
Simple high carbon and low alloy steels such as 1070, 1084, 1095, 52100, 5160, etc. all have decent enough edge retention, but do to the nature of the steel you cannot successfully keep it tuned up regularly. You’re forced to fully sharpen it once it loses its working edge. Contrast that to stainless super steels such as S30V, M390, S45VN, AEB-L, N690, and 3V, which if stropped regularly will literally never lose their razor sharp edge and never have to be resharpened

>> No.2046941

>>2046916
So all you have to do is rub them on some "Fine Swædian Leather™" and good as new?

Plain carbon steel is martensitic lattices with retained austenite. The surface forms inadherent oxides. What is it about Ni and Cr that resists loss of edge (or rather allow easy sharpening)? Big fat honking Cr/Ni atoms wouldn't explain it. Is it the adherent oxide? Perhaps stainless steel knifes are actually ceramic tipped and sharpening them is removing the jagged broken Cr oxide complex to form a new, sharper layer?

>> No.2046944

>>2046941
AND ONE OTHER THING, why don't bladefags cold work their knife profile and instead cut away metal? A cold rolled edge profile would be VERY hard.

>> No.2046966
File: 4 KB, 211x239, brainlet.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2046966

>>2046944
Low IQ, shit having a knife fetish in current year is low IQ

>> No.2047082

>>2046941
>What is it about Ni and Cr that resists loss of edge
I don’t know why exactly, but it’s an objective fact that chromium carbides are more resistant to wear (read: dulling) than carbon carbides. Also, the stainless super steels more often than not have high levels of tungsten, vanadium, and molybdenum to further increase wear resistance

>> No.2047090

>>2046665
At least as a knife maker, my main market is chefs, the semi-pro home users and process workers/hunters who do butchering and fish cleaning. So a lot of what I make is mainly aimed at people who use a knife a lot, stainless for less maintenance and ease of sharpening. A lot of folks don't necessarily have the time to drag out a set of wetstones and diamond cards through the day to tune them up or if they do need a fine edge it can be easy to maintain it with a couple of strops, a steel or it just lasts a really long fucking time so they can do it on weekends.
There's really no one steel that does it all and I tend to find the right mix of price point, quality and how easy it is to process for myself.

In terms of the starting knife maker I'll always recommend simple carbon steels as a way of getting into the game, its not going to cost you a lot in materials, it'll produce something functional and you'll be able to practice a lot on getting the other finer aspects of the engineering like grain reduction cycles, stress relieving and edge geometry. Just with those steels alone, if you want to wander off into other materials and metals later on, that's cool but start small, cheap and learn what you're doing with a KNOWN steel. Something that has a well detailed engineering report, a lot of prior use by other people and the processes are can be consistently replicated in your workplace. That's really also why I don't recommend using scrap and found metals unless you're pretty sure on what they are. You might arse it and get it right once, but you've not really learned very much if the other 5 blades from the same chunk of steel don't work

The other biggie in terms of making a functional knife isn't the magical heat treatment either. If you're capable of reading an engineering profile on heat treating, following it exactly, it'll work every time.
>edge geometry
That's what makes a knife work well, its difficult to do and where you need to pay careful attention

>> No.2047093
File: 168 KB, 1076x605, doom jaws.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047093

>>2020329
hey fuck you too buddy

>> No.2047097

>>2047090
Are you the knife maker anon from /k/?

>> No.2047104

>>2047097
I posted there a couple of months ago, but as I don't really make tactical shit for killing people or little pocket knives. /k and I don't have too much in common interests :)

>> No.2047210

>>2047104
Preparing delicious food is the most violent act a person can commit. Obesity kills more than war, anon!

>> No.2047216

I made a blade from M42 steel because I had access to a near endless supply of scrap 2" end mills and a rolling mill next to my forge at one point. It's a crappy blade but it's good at pissing off knifefags.

>> No.2047240

>>2047216
Post a picture

>> No.2047243

>>2047210
Kitchen knives still kill a lot more people than OTF switch blades, zombie knives and martial arts swords
They're available everywhere, sharp, will puncture deeply at least once or twice and can inflict some pretty grievous lacerations, so I really should work on a line of Domestic Violence specials with a thicker spine, reinforced tip and maybe a convex edge so its not going to chip or roll on bone. I dunno what the market's like exactly for ball cutters, bedroom stabbings and drunken slashing is, probably pretty good in some of the meaner parts of some countries.

>> No.2047248

>>2047243
Rednecks would buy those.

>> No.2047267
File: 794 KB, 2080x1560, IMG_20210304_220638640.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047267

>>2047240
I can do better than just a macrograph once I dig though my old coursework folders. I turned it into a school project, my professor pretended not to hear me when I told him the knife was the end application.

>> No.2047272
File: 344 KB, 1256x677, M42-BSE.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047272

>>2047267
Anyways goal of the project was moreso to show proficiency with the SEM than to actually do anything interesting.
A/D - as-received
B/E - annealed
C/F - forged

>> No.2047278
File: 353 KB, 1138x780, M42-EDS.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047278

>>2047272
EDS images of as-received (junkyard end mill), annealed, forged. I've always been more of a processing chad than a characterization nerd. But one thing I'll always remember is ferrite and martensite are indistinguishable using diffraction.
>so why bother?

>> No.2047287
File: 310 KB, 777x824, M42-EBSD.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047287

>>2047278
I was surprised to find I ended up with with a smaller grain size than the starting end mill. Even after heat treating the forged sample.

>> No.2047337

>>2020329
lurgy fags really are fags too.
t. mech e chad

>> No.2047355

>>2047337
Don't bite the hand that feeds you.

>> No.2047399

>>2047248
I sell a bit of stuff to farmers that do home butchering of animals for their own use and surprisingly once had a couple of ladies in their 40's that made a beeline straight to a pair of 4lb cleavers. Big bastards which made of 1/4" thick Niolox+ stainless you can blow through beef bones in one or two belts in anger, they were relatively expensive too so its not something I expected to move quickly as they're fairly specialist things
But they decided "yes, I need this in my life for reasons"
Dunno if they ended up as wall hangers or getting serious use, guess its also best to find out if their significant partner has his life insurance paid up first and will going to the right people

>>2047287
High cobalt alloys are some pretty serious shit when it comes to carbide precipitation of things like tungsten and you also get better/higher temperatures for when you martensite conversion starts and finishes, which more or less means you're getting as much as possible in the + temps without having to go into cryogenics as much to convert retained austenite.
Or at least that's what I've found on some of the phase diagrams. I generally don't use HSS's as the temps are a bit outrageous in the 1150C-1200C range and they temper around 550C mostly. I do use a lot of N690 but at 1.5% content its not as massive a change. Well, compared to something that's like 8% cobalt

>> No.2047553

>>2045476
>can't walk or breathe
Just do some fentanyl my nigga.

>> No.2048623

>>2022511
ya and as a tool and die maker i know your butcher ass couldn't hit 4 decimal places if you tried. CNCs that do it for you dont count because all you gotta do is push the button homie.

>>2041931
This guy lost his weiner in an angle grinder accident an can only receive now

>> No.2049247
File: 691 KB, 1540x800, Walmart_Great_Value_canned_tuna-MSC_certified.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2049247

>>2020329
Hi bros, I was wondering. Could you make a sword out of canned tuna cans? So instead of just throwing the cans away could you wash them out and then melt them into rods and hammer those rods into usable swords? I was thinking of getting a forge and make swords as a hobby.

>> No.2049577
File: 59 KB, 285x640, external-conten.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2049577

>>2020329
You are getting some novice answers on knive making anon. Here is the deal:

Addition of carbon hardens iron to ~.55%. Thus you want at minimum 1055 for a knife. Adding more give you abrasion resistance
>How long between and how long you spend sharpening.

Don't go above .95% carbon. It makes the knife unreasonably brittle. Even if you don't crack it in half, you'll be pissed when you fine edge keeps chipping. Especially with how hard sharpening will be at that carbon content.

>> No.2049580
File: 695 KB, 900x675, kiuygju.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2049580

>>2034503
Yeah, leaf springs are generally 5160 in America and EN45 in Britain. For commercial vehicles it may also be 6150, S7, S5 etc. In order of increasing weight.

Yeah, if you quench and temper them right they are unreasonably tough at full hardness. It is really more suited towards swords.