/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2006426
How can anyone tell you what a suitable base would be if you do not tell us what you plan to use the bench for? What sort of tools and projects do you want to use this bench for?

>>2006491
sorry thought that was obvious it will be for general diy things
there's gonna be a big vise on one end for holding stuff i am filing, drilling and banging on with a hammer
the occasional car part (diff atm) being taken apart and reassembled and of course every once and a while some woodworking
just a basic workbench you can throw (almost) anything at

>>2006426
>Hey /diy/ what do you use as a workbench?
>Implying one workbench is enough.

1. one standard wood top, drop center workbench with dog holes/vise and dropped center
2. one 1x2m racktop made out of 35x70x4 C channel
3. one 40+ x 100+ (didn't measure it really) 15mm steel top heavy bench

Getting up to making a smaller/lighter racktop now and working on restoring hardware for another woodtop. You can never have enough benches anon.

>>2006558
>Implying one workbench is enough.

This. One is never enough. I have benches all around the perimeter of the shop that are 3/16" steel top about 28" wide. They are nice for 90% of what I do. Then I also built a few rolling benches, and bought a 3/4" thick top welding table for a steal off Craigslist. It needs a bit of work but was built pretty decently. Then I acquired some nice thick steel to build some more welding benches someday. Who knows when I'll get around to that.

>>2006426
Google the anarchist workbench

>>2006558
oh no worries it won't be my only workbench either
I just need a good and strong universal one
so far i only have a shitty small hardware store bought one, made of 1200x600x30 multiplex sitting on a wobbly sheet metal base
that's okish but i need something bigger and much more stable
then i have something like pic related, which is ok for mobile outdoor use but not a real workbench
and lastly i made myself a welding table out of square and rectangular tubing forming a grating

>>2006558
>>2006687
>steel top
how happy are you with that? I can't imagine steel being too comfy to work on all the time
also what are you using for the base? especially 3/16" (~5mm) seems awfully thin not too vibrate like a giant gong when hit with a hammer unless you have a really good base

>>2006715
>anarchist workbench
that just looks like a hipster renaming the traditional "Hobelbank" woodworkers have been using for centuries
it's obviously the best choice for woodworking but I won't be doing much of that
besides making one would be far beyond my skill and tool set I'd never get even just the top flat
It also needs a giant amount of hardwood which won't be cheap
so just buying an old one and restoring it would probably be the better route for someone looking for that

>>2006868
sorry forgot pic

>>2006868
> that's okish but i need something bigger and much more stable
if you can get access to a flat press (even by the means of spending sheckles) get yourself a laminated plywood top, something like 3 inches (3 x 1 inch plywood pieces). Honestly anything thinner than that in wood is too weak to comfortably use a mallet on.
> how happy are you with that?
I do wood and metal and other weird stuff, steel top is indispendable for welding stuff up, racktops are awesome for that too and you get a nice place to cut sheetstock. Flame work is way less risky on steel too. But if i were to go wood only i wouldn't bother with anything thick topped for steel (shit ain't free). So yeah, i am happy to have it, it might be an overkill for you to go as heavy as i did.
> that just looks like a hipster renaming the traditional "Hobelbank"
I guess looking up any craft online now means dealing with a lot of hipster shit :)
> besides making one would be far beyond my skill and tool set I'd never get even just the top flat It also needs a giant amount of hardwood which won't be cheap
I'll try to sketch up how my standard bench is made (it's a factory made stuff), it's a compromise between usability/toughness and reasonable cost. I think lot of thought went into it and if you are to make one by yourself it's a reasonable pattern to copy.

>>2006885
i don't like laminated wood, was thinking of pic related, solid beech
in 2000x750x50 it's 180€ incl. shipping and tax that seems quite reasonable to me
all the industrial workbenches I've seen so far only use 40-50mm wood on top
so I don't think there's any need to go thicker, the trick to stability seems to lie in the base
my plan was to use 80x80x4 square tubing bolted directly to the top forming a ~1800x550 rectangle with a foot made of the same material in each corner
this way no point on the top plate would be farther than 220mm from the reinforcement frame and i'd have 100mm of overhang for clamping stuff to the bench
add in a lower brace like in the op pic with maybe another sheet on top for a storage shelf and it should be quite strong
I'll probably use some adjustable ball joint machine feet for easy leveling and to mitigate any tolerances in cutting and welding warpage
I am also still undecided about bolting it to the wall

>>2006901
That may work. 80x80x4 will be more than strong enough. The thickness i mentioned is not necessary, but i found you need a good plate to stop it from resonating, no base will do that for you, it either flexes or not.

>>2006917
>i found you need a good plate to stop it from resonating
that's absolutely correct, but from experience with industrial benches i know that 40-50mm is enough for that
given that the distance to the support won't be too big
>flexes
i did a quick simplified to 2d calculation using https://amesweb.info/Beam/simply-supported-beam-with-two-point-loads.aspx
assuming a 500kg (1100lbs) load sitting in the center i get a 0.9mm max deflection for my design (50mm wood on top of two 80x80x4 support beams) which seems quite reasonable
just for comparison a top made of only 75mm, 3" of wood with no support would flex 1.9mm

>>2006426
Cant remember where I found this but going to build pic related out of 2x4’s (38x89 in euro size)
I’m building 3 and on a budget so for the top I’ll probably stack 2 sheets of 20mm ply on top of eachother.

Since the frame is entirely underneath the top plate I can replace the top plate with something bigger or more expensive if needed. I like your idea of >>2006901 but €180 is a bit much.

>>2006937
I don’t think static load should be your concern, it’s resonant vibration from your machines. So you’ll need mass and some damping. I’ve seen steel frames perform like crap with big saws because once the legs start to vibrate there’s nothing stopping it (unless bolted to the floor with damping)

>>2006940
i like that design but would add 50-100mm of overhang to the plate so you can easily clamp things to it
>€180 is a bit much
you can get the same style in ~25mm at every hardware store (and even ikea) sold as a desk top for half that or less
if you add a layer of plywood you'd get the same stability for cheap
I'd always recommend a top layer of hardwood so you get a robust work surface that won't dent or scratch super quickly

>>2006946
i know but static was the only thing i am not too retarded to actually calculate
with my design I would get to ~150kg of weight (+50kg for the vise bolted to it) hopefully that'd be enough
vibration is a big reason why I'll use ball joint machine feet with a rubberized bottom
I won't be using too many big saws on it but hitting stuff in the vise with a hammer or impact gun will be common
I am still not 100% sure about steel tubing maybe building the same design out of 4x4 wood is the smarter choice for vibration dampening
or resting one side on a heavy tool cabinet like the industrial benches do
There's also still the option of bolting it to the wall and/or floor (both concrete)

>>2006868
>how happy are you with that? I can't imagine steel being too comfy to work on all the time
>also what are you using for the base? especially 3/16" (~5mm) seems awfully thin not too vibrate like a giant gong when hit with a hammer unless you have a really good base

Steel tops are awesome. Any fluid spills just wipe right off. If you're welding something you just clamp your ground to the bench and enjoy your project being grounded no matter what way you turn it. The 3/16" top benches I mentioned aren't used for much heavy hammering/beating. They are still quite stout with a 2x2 angle frame front and rear, legs anchored down to the concrete every 4 feet and an angle iron cross member every 18-24" if I remember right. They work great for 90% of tasks that I encounter. If I have a lot of heavy hitting to do I will either go to the anvil, or one of my benches with a heavier top.

>>2006957
> overhang
Nice I’ll change the frame design to be 50mm smaller on 3 sides as it will be against the wall on one side

> hard top
I like to nail stuff to it to have a constant reference for measuring reference and stuff so I’ll mess up the top in a year or so and replace it with another cheap one

>>2006426
3/4" plywood

Anything else is a waste of money

>>2007424
3/4 is 20mm, OP wants double that. I have a 3/4 sheet of plywood here and it flexes noticeably in the center when I sit on it, even kitchen tops are usually thicker

Budget basic bench very similar to >>2006940

Use basic 2x4s on edge side by side for the top

Use Liquid Nails adhesive instead of wood glue for the top, it stays flexible. 'Proper' wood glues get hard and can crack under heavy impact abuse.

>>2006868
You may not have found the pdf of a free book that discusses like 80 different methods of making a bench. Try googling it again.

>>2007484
> 2x4s side by side

Isn’t that almost as expensive, but less rigid compared to something like >>2006901 ?

Same size would take 40m of 2x4s which is about €100 where I live, plus you have to haul 60kg every time you want to move it

>>2006426
Steel for me because strength, lifetime durability, easy modification (adding fixtures etc). Wood is OK for bench tops tho.

>>2006426
I have a bench like that, but made from square tube with a 5cm hardwood top and bolted into the concrete wall of my garage.
Very sturdy and literally immovable.

I want another one for my basement, but with a wooden base.
We'll see how that works out.

And i want a Paulk style assembly table, they seem kind of neat.

Anyone ever do a concrete top bench like Andrew Camarata has? I saw that his buddy Jessie Muller just did a video on making one. Seems like it would be a good cheap way to get a solid top on your bench, but would have a few disadvantages over a steel top...

>>2006426
>Oh and since it's going to sit in a corner do you think it would be a good idea to bolt it to the (concrete) wall?
Absolutely. Mine is an old, eavy as fuck wooden bench and it's still secured in two places with threaded rod that goes through the wall. It makes a world of difference when hammering shit on the vise, prevents everything from rattling around and falling.

>>2006426
https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/easy-diy-garage-workshop-workbench

>ana white
Yes I know I know, but this is a basic but stout and heavy
I dont make metal workbenches because they cost way more to get the mass and weight you need
Also I rearrange stuff enough that Im willing to break work benches down and scrap the wood if I have to.

Of course 2x4s have doubled in price as of recently, but its still cost effective

>>2010135
Concrete is too brittle, too much effort for no real benefit

>>2006901
>i don't like laminated wood
>pic related
i mean ... do you know what 'laminated' means?

>>2010660
>do you know what 'laminated' means?
Yes I do, but I am not so sure about you.
Laminated means thin layers stacked on top of each other
where as my suggestion consists of full thickness bars next to each other
If you’ve had any experience with wood you’d know there’s a massive difference between the two

>>2010309

Would probably be fine for most stuff besides heavy hitting... Would be a cheap way to get a solid top on a bench with some mass to it as long as you don't treat it as an anvil.

>>2010135
Concrete has almost no damping so prepare for your hammer hitting back at you and everything that falls on it will end up in another dimension

>>2006901
I simply used 20mm osb as the top layer.
10 years in use, sure it looks like crap but I couldnt care less.

>>2010888
>bars
kek, sure.

how many did you have to check before you got one that said thin layers?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glued_laminated_timber

>>2010888
mmm no they're all laminated m8. Yes commonly people use laminate as a term for specifically shitty composite boards that have veneer sandwiching cheap fiberboard, typically used for flooring. But thats not its literal definition. Any composite material that is built out of layers can be described as laminate.

>>2010929

Use concrete for a bottom layer of a composite table then. Add wood, plastic, steel, or rubber conveyor belting material on top for comfy work bench surface.

>>2011121
That way it doesn’t really have advantages over wood or steel except for maybe the extra weight.
Not sure if that justifies the extra work pouring and drilling the concrete

>>2006957
if you want cheap mass and dampening, just build a sturdy shelf below the tabletop and stack it with sandbags

>>2006519
Steel top bolted on if you lack a welder. Wood is for camp fires while steel top benches are ideal for mechanic work which is why I use them. Your local steel supplier can cut or shear to size. for easy transport if needed.
You can weld or bolt to steel easier than wood for highly loaded stuff like bench vises (a square tube socket vise mount is easy to make and lets you rotate your bench vise, copy the style used to mount them on truck hitches.
Wood bench tops are for those afraid to obtain and use steel. Build it once, keep it for life. Decent wood is more expensive than steel. Also consider lips on the edges while mounting your vise below tabletop height so small parts don't escape and fluids like from gearbox rebuilds are easier to keep off your floor. Look at auto shop and industrial equipment for ideas.
You can fab your basic bench then add or change features easily. Steel top also works for welding.

>>2013941
> lips on the edges

This ruins working with material longer than your workbench since you can’t put it flat for measuring or screwing

>>2006940
Legs are done, 1000mm because I’m tall. I’ll be using 16x M8 carriage bolts with 15mm washers to fasten the horizontal beams. Total cost about €50 for one with 2x20mm ply top. Thinking of adding a shelf just underneath the top for tools

>>2014560
I'm not that guy but that guy said "lips on the edges... below tabletop height".

In addition to all the other recommendations, I'd add that I'd have at least one of the benches you make on caster wheels. Being able to wheel your bench wherever you need it has been so useful for me.

>>2014652
I read that as lips on the edges but vise mounted lower but I’m probably an idiot

whats a good place to buy used industrial type storage racks? for a mechanics shop

WoodSenpai, Is Wood Glue stronger than Nail?

>>2014885
Check your local Craigslist for pallet racking

>>2006426
You've seen this, right?

holds 1,000 lbs.
for the price, you couldn't build one for that.
Just sayin...

Bought this shit at Princess Auto for 80 canuck bux, surface was garbage so I sanded, stained, and epoxied it

>>2014654
I’ve considered that but how do you keep it from moving when hitting things sideways?

>>2015782
the trick is to not put your bench on wheels but put wheels on your bench

>>2015789
This is cool thanks, I’ll look into them and hope those don’t cost a fortune

>>2007048
Can confirm. Heavy angle and steel top shits over everything else in big runny streams.

>>2014709

I run them higher but you can also run them as "gutters" below like on some commercial motorcycle lifts. For a teardown and mechanics bench I have one with angle well above the top. For welding benches I leave them flat.
I also have a couple of simple frames without tops for outdoor torch cutting and other fab since a plain top is far from a necessity and sometimes use those with ordinary welding stands (good for much more than welding).
There are no rules. Build for what YOU are going to do and steel is easy to change if the task will benefit. Play. Experiment. Have fun!

>>2015522
>0.8" / 20mm wood
>20 gauge / 0.9mm steel
lmao that's a fucking toy not a workbench
i'd rather spend double that in materials to build something real

>>2017948
Not every bench needs to support something as heavy as your mom

I made this for my home workshop. I went as frugal as possible using mostly cull lumber and recycled stuff since I was out of work at the time. I mess with plastics and fabric stuff for myog outdoor gear, hence the straightener and iron.

Cull 2x3s for the underside of the bench surface and 2x4s for supports. The top is 3/4 " MDF sealed with wood glue diluted in isopropyl. I used an old bi-fold door for the top and back upper.

>>2018927
looks very comfy
how would you rate its sturdiness, you probably aren't hitting big pieces of steel with a giant hammer on it
but are there any situations where you wish it would be a bit stronger?

>>2021037
Thanks anon. I use it as a work surface for pretty much whatever, but I'm obviously not beating the crap out of it or anything of that sort. It's very stable and I've sat on it without feeling the slightest bit of give. I mostly use screws rather than nails, but it can definitely take a hammering. I built it starting with plans from family handyman, but I changed a lot of things. If I were to change it now, I would probably just out a layer of plywood over top of the MDF. I've also thought about using some rubber stall material for a better hammering surface.

You can't see it in the pic, but there's open storage underneath with additional shelving space and an open channel for wood storage in the back beneath the bench top. I think it can fit like 15 2x4s in it? The floor is just high enough to let me slide paint cans underneath of it. Magnets for various parts that I leave out as well. I've considered adding a hinged table to the left side as an extended surface for cutting longer wood, but I've been fine so far.

Guess I'll post the workbench of nightmares that I made out of a door when I was 19

>>2006426
steel prices have not risen as fast as wood. At this point if you have a welder or a drill and a good hardware source you can build a metal workbench for about half the price of a steel one if you don't factor in your time., but if you do think of it as an investment in your grandchildrens' future.

>>2021371
*half the price of a wooden one,
sorry I am a steel man, a man of steel you might say. Can't even be bothered to type the word 'wood' most days.

>>2018927
>heluva good dip
extremely based

>>2006426
Test

Bench I made from 25 x 25 x 3 box tube. Was sturdy as hell.

>>2022314
Had another shelf half way down and was topped with the melamine hdf in the pic in the end

>>2022314
>25 x 25 x 3 box tube. Was sturdy as hell.
Hm, this makes me think
I was planning to use 80x80x4 but this may be overkill
I still want it to be big so the 80mm per side will stay but maybe 3mm thickness should be enough
It would save ~60€ after all

Has any of you used heavy-duty folding legs for a work bench? I'll have to sell my very sturdy benches soon and go with a more mobile solution, probably a 3x6' work table and lighter 2x4' one for holding tools.

>>2024611

I'm pretty sure Jeremy Fielding has some videos where he talks about this, but I couldn't find it. He's got some good videos on workshop space utilization and such.

>>2022314
No diagonal bracing?

>>2006426
2x4 frame and 4x4 legs, with plywood top.
It would last longer than you do.

>>2024774
how would you connect it?
i am a woodlet so screws are the only option i'd be confident to not fuck up
but all the real woodpeckers seem to hate on screws and pretend they aren't strong/rigid enough for a workbench

>>2024855
Nylon nuts, bolts, and washers, if you want overkill.

Screws are fine, if you buy good screws instead of crap.

>>2024869
This. Get a good structural screw, not a coarse drywall #6.

>>2024869
>nuts, bolts
so something like pic related to connect the frame and legs
how would you attach the top though?
the work surface must be even, no through holes
so i guess (good) wood screws through the frame
but then the legs would only be indirectly attached to the top i don't know if i like that

>>2018597
>He can't even rawdog Anons mom on hiss workbench.
You faggot, get off this board and go back to /v/

>>2024934
If you want to carry the bolted theme, you could drill for lag bolts for the top. I honestly wouldn't be shy about just switching to a countersunk screw for the top, because gravity holds it down anyhow and you're just pinning it in place so it doesn't slide off. A thick 3/4 flooring plywood would be a nice choice.

>>2024974
>lag bolts for the top
yeah but how would you attach them?
as i said there can't be anything on the top surface
so from the bottom through the frame would be the only option i can think of but then the legs are only indirectly attached to the top plate
>A thick 3/4 flooring plywood would be a nice choice.
lmao this makes me reconsider your statement about bolts being strong enough
if you consider 3/4" plywood thick enough for a workbench your expectations must be quite different than mine
i was planning on going with 50mm, 2" and only because anything thicker is outrageously expensive

I guess I'll go with steel after all at least that can be welded

>>2024984
They work like giant screws. You pre-drill the hole and wrench them in. They would be be in the way on top, unless you counter-sink them in very thick material.

It's pretty common for people to finish up their workbench top by dropping on a sheet of thin hardboard. It would just be down with some simple weak adhesive, or just gravity, or just counter-sunk screws. It's smooth and will take damage, and then you just replace it with a new piece when you feel like it later.

>>2024984
3/4 inch plywood is strong enough to hold an engine if you were crazy enough to do so. You don't need to resist an atom bomb.

I hacked up a bunk bed that the previous owners left behind, added some legs and a flat top and now I have a workbench that could double as a bed if my wife ever hits me with the “it’s me or the tools” shit

>>2024999
sorry but "no holes through the top" is a hard constraint
even countersunk screws are a no go to me, the top surface must be perfectly even
>dropping on a sheet of thin hardboard
i guess that makes sense if you (ab)use the bench daily
but with my diy use i expect a good hardwood plate to last at least ten years
i can live with spending 200€ on a new plate every ten years so i don't need to bother with a second surface
>>2025002
>strong enough to hold
well I am not building a shelf so holding weight isn't the defining factor
I care more about sturdiness when hitting stuff with a hammer, vibration dampening using power tools and a certain inertia to move a stuck bolt and not the bench leveraging a pipe over a breaker bar

just for reference pic related is the vise that will live on this workbench, it alone weighs 52kg and needs at least 40mm thickness to attach the front facing lag bolts

>>2025032
Your clamp isn't as demanding as you are imagining, and no matter what surface material you are selecting, you should be mounting it to the frame anyhow.

>>2006426
its a piece of shit but its my piece of shit
since the picture was taken i also added a diagonal support to the two left legs and mounted the vice, planning on adding a support to the back and a shelf
it moves constantly whenever i saw something on it but it works
i had to build it on the cement floor of my basement and all the screws are fucked and theres space between each board but it holds shit just fine

>>2025046
whoops

>>2025036
I just posted the vise to show what i am going for and that is solid and overbuilt
I don't see any downside to a thick bench top besides cost and the cost of a 50mm plate is still reasonable to me

>you should be mounting it to the frame anyhow
no worries the rear vertical bolt will go to the frame but there are two horizontal bolts in the front and those have to go in the plate

>>2025046
no offense anon but i think your bench is a good example on why you shouldn't cheap out on materials
had you used a twice as thick top plate and 4x4s for the feet you wouldn't have the issues you are facing now

>>2025061
>i think your bench is a good example on why you shouldn't cheap out on materials
yea i agree but i'm not exactly in a position where i can splerge on it right now
all i care for is that as long as it can hold shit its fine for me, i will likely build something better in the future
the frame itself is just about the only thing that's actually stable
but to reinforce it do you think i could add a second identical piece of wood to each leg?
all i really want to do with the workbench is just wood working so the heaviest work i'll do is just sawing, other than that i'll just be using a draw knife and chisel which shouldnt strain the table as much

>>2025073
I'd definitely replace the legs with 4x4s if you can afford that
later on when you are able to spend a bit more or maybe find something used add a second layer to the top plate
a cheap option would be just a sheet of OSB inbetween your existing top and the frame

>>2006426
Two drums with plywood laid on top

>>2025032

Why cant you countersink a screw and then fill the hole with a dowel or something similar then sand it flat?

>>2006426

2x4s doubled up for legs and double mdf sheet for the top. Sturdy and stable despite a couple of beginners mistakes. Cost £45 for materials.

>>2006426
Anytime I move, I build one of pic related. It's an amazing bench, extremely sturdy, fairly cheap, and easy to build.

They started charging for the plans last time I went to build it, but most are on wayback:
https://web.archive.org/web/20130613122208/http://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/workbench/how-to-build-a-workbench-super-simple-50-bench/view-all

Outta the way, coming through fagets

>>2025321
Looks like something some faggot hipster would stick in his living room.

>It's reclaimed!

>>2025318
Based design, would have built another one if lumber prices weren't through the roof

>>2025061
> had you used a twice as thick top plate and 4x4s for the feet you wouldn't have the issues you are facing now

He just didn’t brace the leg(s). No matter what size the legs are, that single screwed corner joint will always hinge a bit even if the material doesn’t bend.

>>2025073
Brace the legs horizontally or diagonally. If you double them the way they are now, you’ll need the same amount of wood but it adds less stability.
A good test is to just rock/kick the bench a bit and see which parts rotate wrt each other.

>>2024934
I built this a few weeks ago, as in pic. Looks okay, nice and rigid but just using screws would have been more cost efficient. Definitely needs spring washer and flat washer or the nuts will just eat the wood

>>2026595
20mm MDF top btw and it’s fine

>>2026436
Based design. Same one I built above, but I modded a few things including a diagonal support.
>>2018927

>>2024772
Nope, like I said though, there was a second shelf welded halfway down, after that went on it had no give in any direction

I'm making a 5ft by 2ft bench from 4 poplar beams, 9/4x6, laminated and bolted with structural screws and 1/2 lags that are 12 inched

>>2028847
Using headlock 8 inch too

Before clamping, still planing edges

Grain is alternating up and down in each board

>>2028847
looks like you know what you are doing and super sturdy
why did you pick poplar? it doesn't seem to be a popular choice for work surfaces
also what are your plans for the base?

>>2030889
It's a mock up of the oak bench I'm making, I wanted to see how I could do it with lags first, and I'll use this as an extra table.

For the legs I was thinking about gluing two 2x6 together or using timber cutoffs.

For both I plan to experiment with mortise and tenons

Made a workbench for my k40 chinese co2 laser this weekend, top is from an old dining table that has been converted to my desk. Only thing im a bit dissatisfied with are that the wheels metal base where a bit larger than the legs so I had to use an adapter plate in between. I needed it to me compact and movable because the laser is stored in once location and needs to be used in another due to ventilation concerns. Going to add a tray for a laptop later.

So what are the basic requirements for a workbench? Assume that moderate to heavy work will be performed on the desk (woodworking, hammering, sawing, gluing, lovemaking)

>>2032773
Imo it should be very rigid in all directions, but should provide damping downward or it will send your hammer right back at you, or worse, it may vibrate/resonate as a whole.
Every size is too small.
Wheels are nice but like >>2015789 is better for stability.
Use the storage space underneath the top, or even better, combine storage and structural like in >>2025318.
20mm tops are fine for most work though some people seem to insist that 40mm hardwood is the absolute minimum.

>>2030921
Any reason why the top seems to be resting only on the sides? Why is the front beam lower?

>>2033000
good eye, its just the beams having chamfered edges

>>2015789

I just learned about these today and now I see this post about them.

Bench should:
1. Have a flat top that is square to the front apron.
2. Sturdy enough to prevent racking in all directions
3. Able to hold work securely and safely

>>2033156
I like it but wouldn’t it be easier to just take a fixed caster and mount it sideways? Then lift one end of the bench a few mm to have it rest on the casters, bit like a wheebarrow

The Workbench Book, it says it all.

I built this at work over the span of a year or so. There's been lots of intermediate steps. It all started with the stainless top I picked out of the trash years ago. I have a way too tall, 27" tool chest next to it with everything else I use everyday.

I built this workbench out of about 200 feet of boards that are 1.5" x 5" and used maybe 300-400 screws. Have sledgehammered the dogshit out of while drunk to demonstrate its fine craftsmanship and it barely moved across the floor.