/diy/ - Do It Yourself

The chinkshit troubleshooting edition.

>3d printing a torch height bracket for my plasma CNC so I can cut a better one out of steel

if the plasma torch doesn't really get that hot then I might just leave it as plastic. My original plan was to do all steel on it but after realizing how fiddly it'd be to weld and come out straight I considered other options. There's going to be alot of 3d printed parts on this CNC.

>>1999172

It's all chinkshit at some point or another, anon.

Post some projects.

Here's a replacement part for a Dillon's 1050 reloading press. The factory part is a simple delrin wedge that costs $10 plus $9 shipping. Now its adjustable without needing a wrench to boot.

>>1999193

Also another replacement part for the same press. The original was ABS and became brittle over years of use, and cracked when tightening the bolts. This has been going strong for several months.

It also glows in the dark, which is cool I guess?

>>1999188
I just really hope the EMI doesn't fuck with the Z stepper motor. My only option would be to wrap it inside some thin, grounded sheet metal, if that doesn't work then I guess I'll be going for MK-II to relocate the entire motor.

I was also considering doing away with the lead screw Z altogether and just using a piece of string around a pulley and relocating the stepper ontop of everything. I quickly abandoned this idea as it felt too janky even for me.

Hey, man, what if we made a printer that could, like, print plastic and resin? That'd be rad...

>>1999193
Good job anon, but you should work on your extruder settings in your slicer. Looks like you're under extruding a fair bit.


Everybody behold a benadryl fueled design. I'd be embarrassed to post the design history of this assembly. It's gotten so long I don't even want to look at it myself.

>>1999198

What about using an arrangement like the drive on a zesty nimble to translate the motion from a distance? Could something like that be adaptable to your situation?

>>1999196
I mean, reloading ammo is legal pretty much everywhere where people are allowed to own guns...

>>1999207

It is, but I don't see your point. Do you want to spend $20 to buy and ship a simple but essential plastic part from Dillon when you can model it in ten minutes and print it in an hour?

>>1999196
>It also glows in the dark
Hit it with your car.

>>1999211

If Terry had been the lead developer of Marlin my 3d printers would exorcise demons while they worked

>>1999210
Oh, you used actual glow in the dark filament.

>>1999202
A flexible rotary shaft, now that's an idea. Thanks anon.

I want to make a stamping nest. Essentially, it is a block with the shape for whatever you are stamping taken out of so it holds your object, say a tag, so it doesn't move. These are usually made out of steel. Is there any plastic that would handle the force of being stuck with a hammer like this? The hammer is 3 or 4lbs and the stamps are less than 1/4 inch wide. Pic related is an example of professional nests produced by Numberall.

>>1999243
If it's shallower than the piece itself, or you use punches, so the nest doesn't take the force of the mallet, you shouldn't worry too much. Hold it by several places[1] on the edge so as to avoid each hold to hold too much strain[2], but not too close together[3] so as to avoid strain[2] between the holds, and print it at full infill.
[1][3]: YMMV
[2]: I'm not a mechanical engineer. Sue me.

anyone else using openscad? what kind of $fa and $fs (or $fn) is required for a sufficiently smooth circle for printing?

>>1999243
People make sheet metal forming tools out of ABS, you could probably try printing it and see how it fares

>>1999243
Stuff made here on youtube has actually 3d printed metal stamping dies he uses with his press. They actually work better than you think. I'd go have a look at whatever video it was.

>>1999247
Whatever fits your usecase. Is it a smol peg for a hidden hinge? Is it a foot-wide vase?

>>1999156
>tdc anons fleshlight
nice

>>1999243
So my thought is you want a steel block under the item and the plastic just to keep it from sliding. That way you can print any shape into the nest the thickness of the object, mate it with the steel block which will take the impact and go from there. Even if the positioning plastic (ABS) only lasted a dozen strikes, it would be inexpensive to make a dozen more and change them out every 10 strikes or whatever your testing indicates is necessary.

ABS is probably stronger but might be subject to shattering which would be worse than softer PLA. Nylon would probably be the best, but it's more difficult to print.

>>1999254
It's an adapter to press-fit into a circular hole

>>1999248
sheet metal bending is slow pressure, stamping is a heavy strike. ABS is probably the correct material regardless.

>>1999263
Size?

What is the patrician solution for print in place? Three separate pieces just becomes a pile in Cura. Am I supposed to put a hairline connection to trick Fusion360 into exporting as a single .stl?

>>1999266
The size of the hole, obviously.

>>1999272
Kek
>>1999263
What sizes are they?

>>1999266
36mm ID

>>1999274
I'd go with $fn=60 and take it from there. Iterate and see what works for you.

How much heat can FDM materials handle?
Can I make a soldering iron handle out of them?

>>1999288

Depends on the material. ABS is probably what most of the cheaper ones are made from so I would imagine so. FDM plastics are very similar to their injection molded counterparts in material properties, they're just weaker due to the inter layer adhesion being inferior to a molded part.

>>1999288
Probably ABS/ASA/Nylon/PC. Don't even think about PLA. PETg maaaaaaaay work but don't take my word.

I got an ender 3 v2 today and the fucking steel part of the spool mount is slightly too thick to allow the nut to turn to lock. What do? trim the spool part?

>>1999294
Trash it and buy a Prusa.

>>1999243
Nylon or polycarbonate for plain filaments, but carbon fiber filled PLA might be good as well.

>>1999254
The early reprap guys found that it's more reliable to model the regular polygon based on the inscribed circle that you want to approximate. Check out the polyhole function from the prusamendel github repo.

>>1999323
meant for
>>1999247

>>1999262

ABS is much softer than PLA my dude

>>1999269
save the whole project as stl

What are your favorite places to buy filament from? I really don't want to use Amazon for it. Has anyone bought it off of Ali? Are there some premium Made in the USA brands?

Any idea what might be causing this? I just assembled my Ender 3 today and cant get a good print. It seems like once it gets to a certain layer it just shits the bed. I think the arm is getting caught and not moving up when it should, how do I fix that?

>>1999388
Seems like you're overextruding to begin with, but you shifting problem can be solved with a layer of glue from a gluestick.

>>1999387

Atomic, 3dfuel, protopasta off the top of my head.

Atomic and 3dfuel are both pretty reasonable, protopasta is retarded overpriced.

>>1999388

Failures at a certain layer can be due to a binding z axis screw. Make sure nothing is catching on it or impeding it, and very lightly lubricate it.

>>1999387
Paramount 3D is pretty good

>>1999221
They are on to you.

>>1999400
This and check the right side rollers on the gantry, if they're not aligned/tightened properly they tend to bind after a few layers

>>1999437
Please shut the fuck up newfag, you are not funny when you cite Terry every time someone mentions "glow" or a certain federal agency

Cura has a setting for infill layer thickness that has to be a multiple of the overall layer height. What is the disadvantage of making this value as large as possible? It seems like it would save a lot of print time without sacrificing quality in the visible areas.

whoa, that russian guy who printed used VCR tape for filament posted a video of using poly strapping for filament:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_GSKCKu25I
I didn't understand a word he said but can someone translate and tell us how strong this shit would be?

I have a few noobish questions...
While leveling the bed on my Ender 3, I did it cold and then I did it preheated. I had filament loaded. I was using Chep bed leveler that moves to the 5 spots and then prints squares. After leveling, I tried to print but the print wasn't sticking. I releveled the bed. While I was relevelng the bed, I was getting a lot of stringing even though I wasn't printing. Why is that? Is there a way to prevent this?
I don't have my computer set up right now, so I'm using AstroPrint. One of the STLs I uploaded was a low poly fox. I scaled it down a bit. After I got the Gcode, I used Graphite on Android to check the file. Seems like it is going to take about 2.5 hours to print. The printer only came with a small sample of filament. What happens if it runs out while it is printing? I'm guessing it won't stop automatically, will it? If it doesn't stop, will running empty damage the components at all?
One thing I find kind of annoying is not being able to observe the nozzle while it is printing because the fan blocks it. Is there any printable mod that you guys would recommend that would open the front view of the nozzle up? I know there's a bunch of them out there, but I want to see what you guys use.
I'm sure I'll have more questions in the near future.

>>1999469
Nice glow posting, oink.

>>1999488
>While I was relevelng the bed, I was getting a lot of stringing even though I wasn't printing. Why is that? Is there a way to prevent this?
Define "stringing." Do you mean that a strand of plastic was oozing out of the nozzle while it was heated, even though you weren't extruding? Or were you getting many smaller, wispy strands coming out of the hotend area, but not necessarily the tip of the nozzle?
>The printer only came with a small sample of filament. What happens if it runs out while it is printing?
The printer will continue moving as normal, but no plastic will come out. It will result in a partial print, such as the bottom half of a fox.
Technically you won't be running "empty," since once the extruder reaches the end of the filament line, it will be unable to push any more filament through the tube, and so what was already in the tube/hotend will simply sit there.
I don't believe leaving filament sitting inside a hot hotend risks any serious damage.
Did you buy some kind of aftermarket cooling fan? On my Ender 3, the nozzle extends a good centimeter or two below the cube that contains the fans and such, and if I crouch to get level with it I can easily see where it touches the print.

>>1999500
It was a single strand, thinner than an actual printed line.
Wow, so with the filament just sitting there, that seems like a good chunk of waste from the extruder to the hot end once the spool runs out.
I haven't put any mods or aftermarket parts on it yet. I can see the nozzle of I get low enough or if the nozzle is high enough. I was hoping for an open front design where I can observe the printing without maneuvering.

>>1999513
>It was a single strand, thinner than an actual printed line.
Due to the way Bowden tube extrusion systems operate, after the extruder stops pushing filament, there can be a small amount of leftover compression in the filament inside the tube, between the extruder and the hotend. If the hotend is hot, this can cause a small amount of plastic to slowly ooze from the nozzle. It will eventually stop, but assuming your gcode files are set up to print one of those nozzle-clearing lines on the side of the bed before beginning a print, any such dripping plastic will be detached from the nozzle during that step, so it shouldn't be a big deal.
>that seems like a good chunk of waste from the extruder to the hot end once the spool runs out
It's only about a foot, which is an incredibly small percentage of the standard 1 KG spools that filament comes in. If you're really worried about it, there are ways to splice filament lines together so that you never truly run to the end, but I'd advise you to simply not worry about the $0.10 worth of plastic.
>I was hoping for an open front design where I can observe the printing without maneuvering.
I'm not sure such a thing exists. I don't think I've ever seen a printer with a nozzle that wasn't attached to the bottom-center of its hotend assembly, at least.

Im 3D printing this 6x12 panoramic camera. All of the small parts are done. Im 7 hours into a ~26hr print for the camera body. I'll post a pic of all the parts together when they're done.

>>1999521

Please do, this is very interesting to me as a hobby photography enthusiast. How will you ensure it's light-tight?

>>1999521
its designed with baffles where the main parts attach. A baffle between the lens cone/body and one with the back/body. im gonna do a test roll and see how it goes. maybe use some flocking or at minimum matte paint on the internals

Its the Kraken 6x12 camera. they sell the files on etsy. I went for it cause it uses a helical for consistent focusing and the sample shots on the website look really promising.

>>1999535

Are you printing at 100% infill? Intuitively I'd think that that would give the best results for a light-tight camera body. Could of course be totally wrong

>>1999542
im printing the critical parts at 5 shells and 30% fill. 100% is way overkill for almost all parts and would turn a 25hr print into maybe 100 hours.

Im using black PETG and will be spraying the interiors with Matte black paint

>>1999480
The concept reminds me of the CNC kitchen video where he uses whipper snipper wire as filament. Seemed like a way to get small bits of nylon for cheap until someone posted a study into the gases produced and the wire produced some cyanide iirc.

>>1999521
How much would the lens cost for something like that?
I know nothing about cameras but that seems like a really interesting way to get started.

>>1999544

I was mostly thinking about infill density I guess but it makes total sense that the shell is the crucial part. Also black PETG and some additional light proofing should do the trick, yeah.
Good luck with it, I'd be very happy to see the results if you're gonna post them

>>1999551
>How much would the lens cost for something like that?
With other designs, $0
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2653707

You want to model and print something functional and unique that nobody else has done before?
I had grand plans to do it myself, but I just dont 3D print anymore and im done with the idea. Stretched too thin in too many areas.

Here you go, a functional chainstitch sewing machine.
Before you say it cant be done, in the 60s they used to sell plastic, hand crank toy sewing machines. They still sell them, just slapped a cheap motor on them.
Its a chainstitch machine, meaning the actual machine design is extremely basic and doesnt require a lot of accuracy or high tolerances. Plastic ones work fine.

I actually bought Pic related 4-5 years ago Its a Necchi Supernova toy, the only piece of metal is the needle and the presser foot (which could be plastic)
Its literally just a hand crank on a shaft, which spins cam lobe that hits the lever moving a needle up and down.

A 1:1 copy of the mechanism 3d printed would easily function.

>>1999551
They can very a shitload depending on quality and focal length
from $100 to $600. I'm going for the Rodenstock 90mm f6.8 Grandagon-N that runs around 300$

>>1999553
I'll be posting shots in the film thread in /p/. Might post a shot or two in here. I don't have a film scanning setup atm as I sold my Epson v700 in feb 2020.

>>1999556
>sewing machine
Interesting

>>1999558
>Might post a shot or two in here

That would be greatly appreciated. I'll make sure to keep a lookout on /p/ as well.

>>1999515
Ah OK, thanks for the info. I have some ideas for some Gcode snippets to test but I can't do that without my computer. Well, now that I think about it, I probably could...
Yeah I know it's not much plastic, it just seems like a lot when you only have the tiny sample that comes with it the printer lol. I have some spools on the way, all PLA. I think I'l try to master this stuff before I move on to PETG and beyond. I'm kind of amazed at the sheer number of filament types and colors, almost too many choices!
I was thinking like a less bulky or more open design for hotend like E3D V6 or Mosquito. Just something where there isn't a fan or whatever blocking the view from the front when looking down on the machine.

>>1999569
all hotend are bulky once the part cooler and shroud and insulation are in place

>>1999387
>>Are there some premium Made in the USA brands?
I've been happy with Fusion filaments

Looks like my little fox print finished and I still have quite a bit of the sample filament, too. I think I am overestimating how much filament is used in a print. This one was done at 20% infill. Not bad for my first print I think.
So that stuff at the top. I understand that has to do with retraction settings. Right now, I have to use AstroPrint to slice with. I'm guessing there is a setting in there somewhere where I can change the retraction. I'll have to play around with it one of these first days. It's just a pain in the ass to have to upload a file, slice it, save it to SD card, move the SD to the printer and so on. I can't wait until I can just have my computer hooked up to the printer. Eventually I want to get OctoPrint set up with an OctoBox or whatever it's called.

>>1999561
>>1999556
I'm doing a perfunctory search on chainstitch mechanisms. The cams and levers and gears sound doable, but the looper looks smol. Would it have to be made out of wire? Is it available in stores like the needle?

>>1999578
>Eventually I want to get OctoPrint set up with an OctoBox or whatever it's called
You're looking for OctoPi. It's basically a Raspbian-based Linux distro with OctoPrint, its dependencies, and MJPG-Streamer for the camera.
https://octoprint.org/download/

You can also just run OctoPrint on your computer.

I'm trying to print a triangular prism with 2" long edges as spiralized (vase mode). I keep getting this warping pattern in the walls as the part cools. Should I increase minimum layer time? Would upping the layer height help?

> tfw 12 hour print full of small parts and internal geometry came out great
> but then you realize you actually turned on support all and not just support from buildplate

>>1999262
PLA has a higher surface hardness than ABS, but is more brittle.

Why does it seem like filament is always a different price(and usually higher) whenever I go to buy more? Even just a year ago I was able to buy a spool of PLA for around $10 on ebay. Now I can't find any for under $18, most going for $20/spool. Same goes for PETG. I was able to buy 4 spools for $12 each at the beginning of december. What the hell is causing the massive price fluctuations?

>>1999656
La Corona

>>1999656

I bookmarked some dingdong named 3dprintingdeals on twitter and buy loads of cheap shit off amazon whenever it gets clearanced. That's pretty much always good for most things, I keep spools of nicer stuff if I really need it. Which is rare, since even cheap filament is normally perfectly serviceable.

>>1999198
>I just really hope the EMI doesn't fuck with the Z stepper motor.
If you're worried about that why not put the motor further away? Like turn the motor and rod assembly 180 so the rod is pointing down and the motor is that much further from your plasma gun. I'd also think about lining up the motor and rode with the gun. I suspect you'll get less wobble that way.

>>1999644
You can get "PLA+" formulas quite cheap from a bunch of brands now which trade a little bit of tensile strength for less brittleness, and "super-tough" PLA which takes this even further

Cura vs prusa slicer? Which one is better?

>>1999708
if there's any wobble at all it'll be from a worn out linear rail, I didn't mention it in any of my posts but I'm putting 1/8" steel reinforcing plates in front of and behind the bracket, so the plastic will be sandwiched and there won't be much room at all for any sort of wobble.

I originally did had the motor ontop but I had to redesign it this way because the lead screw would drive itself below the point of the nozzle, which would either A) give me like less than 1.5 inches of total adjustable height if I compensated for this in software or B) snag on the work piece during a travel move. I also didn't want the bracket to be so huge and tall just to move the lead screw up enough to solve this.

If EMI proves to be a problem I'll go with a flexible rotary shaft like other anon suggested and relocate the Z stepper far, far away from the torch.

>>1999726
cura POS
gets worse with every update

Any tips for using Vase mode in Cura?
I'm trying to print a low poly vase. I enabled vase mode. I set my layer height to be the same thickness as my nozzle and line, which is .4mm. Print speed is set to 30mm.
My vases are coming out looking more like woven baskets than anything. There are gaps between the layers. Very small gaps and not in many places but they are there. .4mm seems awfully thin, too.

>>1999747
afaik you shouldn't be printing with layer heights that are the same height as your nozzle diameter.

>>1999747
>>1999753
Rule of thumb for maximum layer height is 75-80% of nozzle diameter, so 0.3mm on a 0.4mm nozzle.

>>1999753
>>1999756
OK I'll try adjusting that and see what happens.

>>1999756
should also be a whole step to avoid the variation from microstepping, correct?

>>1999758
In vase mode it's practically always microstepping, but yeah. On most printers that's 0.04mm, so 0.32 would be the max - but personally, I'd stick to 0.20.

>>1999758
thats a meme

when the stepper gets enabled it jumps to a full step. then you home the axis and whatever step it is on is considered 0

What does a magic number help when z0.0 is on 4/16th?

>>1999747
>>1999757
You could try toofpaste mode and print 0.8mm wide layers a bit slower than usual

>>1999726

Prusaslicer is really nice now but cura tree supports are way better, the only time I use cura now is if it's a really support heavy part.

>accidentally get some oil on my PETG filament during a print while lubing my z axis lead screw
>print stops stringing and has the best surface quality I've ever gotten with PETG
Huh.

Wonder what it does to the layer adhesion.

>>1999771
A lot of people have an oil soaked sponge rub on the filament right before it gets extruded.

>>1999776
Another anon here. Does it work on PLA? What about layer adhesion?

>>1999782
I haven't set one up as of yet because I'm only printing PLA (with excellent results).

>>1999156
hi frens i just finished setting up my new ender 3
what do you think of my first print lol

>>1999791
how edgy xD lmao

>>1999791
Is this post ironic, post ironic, or post post ironic?

>>1999795
What's edgy about it? Just an ancient symbol of peace. Maybe he's going to use it for a Buddhist shrine

>>1999782
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lCiXvYzy48
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yY7ZrVE8eks

>>1999766
I guess I could try that. The first vase, gaps between the layers so I cancelled the print.
The second attempt, I changed the layer height and initial layer height both to 0.4mm and saw gaps again, so I cancelled that print as well. But when I went to remove it from the build plate, it delaminated.
My third attempt, I set layer height to 0.32mm and adjusted the shell thickness but I guess that doesn't matter on something with only one line around the outside of it. The print was looking good but then right near the top, I saw gaps again. I let it finish because it was at like 85% complete.
So maybe toofpaste mode will help, couldn't hurt to try!

>>1999791
Looks good, bro.

>>1999791
I once did a svastika boomerang, but then I lost it

Just got an EPAX X1K 6" SLA printer. Why do you guys not talk about them? From what I have seen its one of the better SLA 3D printers on the market right now.

>>1999865

Most all of the MSLAs work the same, look the same, and act the same. There just isn't a lot to talk about, it just werks

>>1999796
ill have to think about that one

>>1999376
fucking hell that's convoluted as fuck, plus the "cloud processing" takes forever. it worked though, who would have guessed? thanks anon

>>1999521
>~26hr print
how tho?

It's kinda funny that the stringing quality I curse so much about PETG actually saved my 4 hour print from spaghetting on an overhang.

>>1999882
Next time right click on the bodies you want and click "save as STL". It does it locally. Fuck the cloud.

>>1999891
Technically that's a bridge. But that's one hell of a silver lining to your stringing. You have truly been blessed by FSM's noodly appendage.

>>1999581
I think metal allows the thread to slide without abrasive cutting into the tool, e.g. durability. I see them for sale in 100 different sizes and shapes, probably for individual machines.

I'd think your main problem with DIY a metal looper would be making is smooth enough not to wear the thread, and DIY one out of anything else making it stronk enough the thread doesn't wear it away. rope friction is no joke and even if you're not doing a lot of sewing it's probably a lot in terms of thread passed through.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbelhLT5veE

>>1999893
>why do you keep saying F360 is shit
this is why

>>1999873
Yeah, the basic principle of it is the same, but how they act is entirely dependent on how they are constructed. Only now are Elgoo and Anycubic adopting the ball-bearing z-axis linear rails EPAX has been using. And the mono-screen the EPAX has cuts down on the printing time by a significant margin, like compared to the Elgoo Mars Pro 2, an 11 hour print can take only 4 hours on the X1K. Finally, it has a solid build plate with a 4 point mount, so it's not going to budge between prints and throw the build plate off calibration. Of these three companies, EPAX from my understanding has the better machines.
Maybe I got a bit of the -tism, but some of these specification do matter to me and can make the difference in a quality resin print.

>>1999893
Do I need to be using document units of mm to get the scaling right?

>>1999907
Nah. Metric only slicers like cura will make your parts incredibly small, just set the scale to 2540% to get your correct scale in those programs

>>1999891
lmao
ive only had bad experience with petg bridging so far

>>1999905

You do have the tism but that's okay. I doubt anyone can tell any difference between the prints on any similar MSLA so long as it is correctly calibrated and you're comparing similarly specced printers and settings though

Monos are definitely a major improvement over previous printers though

>>1999796
It's 2021. That post is Nazi.

So when printing something, if you scale it down to say 25%, does that mess up the print at all? Like can you use the same slicer settings for a regular size print compared to a mini? I've been printing things but I keep scaling I'm down to very small because I only have so much filament and I don't really want to wait for 4 or more hours.

>>1999964
It really depends on the print. You will lose details if it's a very detailed print, but it won't fail per se.

>>1999964
Here is some examples.
The two failed vases and the almost good vase. Plus a megalodon tooth, scaled to baby size.

>>1999964
your slicer setting will mess things up to a small extent. your slicer is basically going between thick and thing and fast and slow, so thin-fast prints differently than thick-slow. in addition the slicer says put down X wall layers. vase mode is outer wall only, but most prints are multi-layers for the walls. ditto top and bottom.

if you're trying to save filament using the same settings isn't going to help either, you have to look at the estimate.

the amount of infill you use is going to affect how much filament you use lot more though than other settings and that affects strength of print as well, but if you're just playing with limited filament you can turn that down (10% is the lowest I've used)

hopefully you've got a spool on the way, in the mean time:
1) browse thingiverse
2) play with meshmixer
3) play with Fusion360 or whatever

also my Home Depot sells filament now so it's possible you could find a local store to run to on sunday afternoon and get more?

>>1999993
slicing also controls temp and the middle vase fail looks like it wasn't hot enough.

>>1999858

I'll remember this one, nice and subtle

>>1999614
I think I understand what's up here. This kind of warping shows up in fabric when pulled taut, so this is just what I get for trying to print a thin vertical wall.

>>1999614
Try lowering your print temp and/or print speed. if you have the part cooling fan turned down then turn it up.

>>2000099
>so this is just what I get for trying to print a thin vertical wall
Vase mode is all about printing thin vertical walls, though.
There are probably some settings you can tweak to fix the issue, but it's not like it's completely impossible to print a 1-layer thick wall without it warping.

>>1999156
just got a BLTouch...
>got it installed
no idea how to install firmwear
>what do

Tried printing a 1x1x1 test cube on my ender at 250mm/s print speed, all walls no infill. Walls didn't wanna adhere to each other.

I ended up with a slightly squishy cube. It's actually quite nice to squeeze.

>>2000123
dang I want to squish that cube

>>1999905
>And the mono-screen the EPAX has cuts down on the printing time by a significant margin
yeah, they got those

> it has a solid build plate with a 4 point mount
I think they all have solid plates, and the mount on my Mars has never had a shifting problem. 4 screws just sounds more fiddly than 2 and a ball.

but hey man you do you, don't let me shit on your parade

>>2000123
>It's actually quite nice to squeeze.
Make a titty with the same settings.

>>1999893
>>1999882
The fuck are you talking about? click the project name on the left with right click and choose the save as STL, simple as fuck.

>>2000099
thin vertical wall you say?

>>2000149
Well, I was just saying that from the reviews I saw, the EPAX has a higher powered monoscreen as well which is why it has a faster printer time than the Mars 2 Pro, no idea about the Photon Mono SE.
As for the build plate, its made to come off from the mount. So there is no chance for it to go off angle like a ball and screw joint. But hey, if you are not having issues, then great.

>>2000099
thin vertical wall you say?

ahem, *vertical*

What do you guys do when you get a new spool? Do you do the calibration cube? Temperature towers? How do you learn what print settings to use, just trial and error til it works? Do you keep a journal of your prints? There are so many variables with this stuff, seems near impossible to do experimenting without one. I ask because I just got a few rolls of PLA and I'm anxious to print in something other than white (even if one of my new spools is white).

>>2000116
teaching tech's videos. he has the simplest and most retard proof videos out there .

>>2000197
Even if it is higher powered that wouldn't make a significant difference unless you're using something crazy like formlabs resin which is made for laser SLA and requires a ridiculous amount of UV exposure. For any practical situation the majority of print time in a mono printer like the mars 2 is just moving the build plate up and down.

>>2000214
> no
hes does not have my model and is pretty bad at explaining things

>h-here i made this for you...

>>2000223
Either your layers are too tall or you're under extruding for some reason.

>>2000205
The only major issue I've had with different spools is that some need a slightly higher temp to adhere. Just pop the new one in and watch the first few layers. Chances are it will just work.

>>2000232
Layer height : 0.32mm
Line Thickness : 0.8m
Those are the only two layer psrsmeters I changed. Layer height was at 0.1mm and thickness was at 0.4mm. I also changed infill from 20% to 95%. Maybe I'll drop it back to the original layer height but keep the thickness and see what happens.

>>2000235
You want the visible gap between perimeters to vanish.

CAN SOMEONE EXPLAIN TO ME WHY DELTA FDM PRINTERS AREN'T RECOMMENDED

>>2000239
WHY ARE YOU YELLING?

>>2000205
Just print anon. Unless it's some specialty filament it's going to be fine. And if it's not fine THEN you tweak and figure it out, print a test cube etc. And I'm not talking start an 18hour print out of the gate, but there is no reason to tweak shit until something isn't working.

So far I have 4 categories:
1. almost all PLA that just works as expected
2. this shiny red shit that's going to crumble no matter what the fuck I print, but is hard as iron
3. nylon
4. [reserved for ABS]

>>2000239
I recommend one all the time. I fucking love my little delta shitbox.

>>2000242
just felt like it

Jackpot!

Someone threw out one of those display refrigerators that delis or restaurants use to show desserts/food, and I snatched it up as fast as I could. Thermally insulated, windows all around, door with a seal and just big enough to fit my Rostock Max V2. All I have to do is clean it, cut some holes (for some ventilation tubes to cool the steppers), and figure out the best way to get power to the printer. I'm also going to replace the florescent tube lights inside with led strips and maybe add a rack on the top to hang various rolls of filament.

This has to be the most perfect retro fitted heating chamber I could have found. The interior is aprox 2'x2'x5' and my printer measures around 18"x20"x42".

>>2000248
Nice.

>>2000248
My only complaint is that the double paned glass makes it an absolute unit to move. I've already removed the compressor but that was only 1/3 of the weight. It's going to be a challenge getting it downstairs to my shop. I'll post updates when I'm able to start working on this thing.

>>2000250
Buy a dolly and strap it down.
E
Z
P
Z
Lemon squeezy

>>2000250
Kek, how was the """draining""" of the refrigerant. You only used professional recovery equipment and disposed of it legally, right anon?

>>2000250
>refnidgemanx dvainxd
pretty sweet score anon even if you can tell that brown hands were the last ones to touch it

>>2000258
Slap a piece of paper to the wall 10 inches above the floor and then try to write legibly on it with a marker.

>>2000248
>>2000250
I forgot to mention, but it's also sound proof. I blasted some music on my bluetooth speaker, and could barely hear it after closing the door.

>>2000254
That's my current plan, but it's still gunna be sketchy af. I'm going to try to recruit some buddies to give me a hand.

>>2000250
are you going to use the compressor to make a vacuum chamber?

>>2000237
Yes that's exactly what I want. The only setting I see that might do that would be Infill Overlap Percentage. But that doesn't make sense because it's not just the gaps on the infill. Maybe a setting in the Shell section should be changed but I'm not sure what. I guess I need to read the user's manual.

>>2000257
>>2000258
>>2000262
It was empty before I found it, but due to a puddle of oil under the compressor, I'd assume it was tossed due to not cooling because of a refrigerant leak or something. I did the EPA approved test of nicking one of the lines with my reciprocating saw before going ham on it, and didn't get any hissing.

>>2000265
Here is the second palette I printed along with a calibration cube from earlier. Both have these tiny holes. It may be hard to make out, but the edges of the Z pane aren't really attached all the way to the were of the box. The X and Y panes look great.

>>2000277
increase extrusion rate

although those are huge lines so I hope your nozzle is also huge and your heating element can handle that much material as quickly as those settings require.

>>2000235
>Layer height : 0.32mm
>Line Thickness : 0.8[mm]
That looks suspiciously underextruded like a print I tried to do at similar parameters with an 0.4mm nozzle. Try reducing either, for example line height to 0.2mm or line width to 0.6mm.
>>2000265
>Infill Overlap Percentage
Yes, that's overlap between the infill and the shell. I upped it to 40% and forgot about infill not sticking to walls.

>>2000262
>use the compressor to make a vacuum chamber
Interesting idea, might improve post-curing of an SLA print.

>>2000265
Maybe your extruder/hotend just can't keep up with the print speed. 0.32*0.8 is a lot of plastic for a 0.4mm nozzle. Are you sure you can even make 0.8mm lines reliably? That must be close to the diameter of most print heads

>>2000283
my dad uses a compressor he harvested from a fridge in like 99 for doing evac on AC units. my brother built a vaccum chamber for resin and carbon fiber. he has built a lot of racing drone frames with it.

>>2000268
>not paying a professional to empty the tank in an environmentally responsible way
you fucking MONSTER!

>>2000286
>resin and carbon fiber
Does he 3D print moulds for the carbon fibre? I want to get into composites eventually and this would be a good way to start. I wonder if any common filaments don't adhere to that resin.

Otherwise I was thinking of milling a block of MDF down and covering it in silicone paint. Possibly with holes through the block so I could pull a vacuum on it to ensure the layers are firmly sucked close to the mould.

the moon

>>2000280
>>2000281
Yeah I think it's related to material flow. Unfortunately, my calipers are an hour away and everything is closed. Ah well, gives me another test to do tomorrow. Unless I could do it with a 16th inch measuring tape? Or maybe I could j st guess at it and slightly increase it until I'm satisfied. I suppose I could slice the top of the cube off below the Z and just print that.

>>2000285
I'm not sure how cloe the lines are to 0.8m. The only precision item I have right now is my lock pinning kit. I don't have a 0.8mm pin but I do have a 0.030 inch and 0.033 inch which are really close but I'm not really sure how I would use those. Maybe just put a few near the line and eyeball it. Sounds like a weird idea.

>>2000221

If you can't follow a TT video you might actually be retarded

>>2000197

Most of them have mounts like that, anon. My old model photon just slides off and right into the bracket on my wash and cure station. I leveled it once in the 2 years or so I've had it and it never needed redoing

>>2000239

Nothing wrong with them at all, but the cons are that they have to be very tall relative to a cartesian bedslinger, and the effector / hotend assembly must remain light. They're also almost always Bowden, which really isn't a big deal for anyone who doesnt print a shitload of flexibles, but people seem to really prefer direct drive nowadays

Ender 3 v2 or the biqu q1. Which do you guys recommend?

>>2000303
Ender 3, then slowly proceed to replace every single electronic, electric, and moving part.

>>2000289
I dont know much else about what my brother has done, we dont speak anymore. hes a douche.

>>1999885
Cause the body of the camera measures 8.5"x3.5"x1.75" and Im printing it at 30% infill with 5 shells. I want this thing to be fucking solid.

>it's another This Old Tony does 3D printing episode
neat

>>2000307
Sounds I should get the b1 then. It's got the skr 1.4 and I could easily add auto leveling.

>>2000248
You could just tap AV off of the ballast for the lights in the top of the unit and add an outlet box to the roof panel, or add one to the floor panel inside the enclosure portion.

>>2000235
>Layer height : 0.32mm
>Line Thickness : 0.8m
That's a very chunky print. Standard layer height and line thickness are in the neighborhood of 0.2mm and 0.4mm.

>>2000260
They make dollies that are designed to travel up and down stairs, that might make it easier.

>>2000260
>>2000346
You could also potentially use pulleys to help pull it up the stairs. That or some sort of ratcheting mechanism to help prevent it from sliding down the stairs.

So I'm confused about something.
The calibration cube I printed with the messed up top came from Teaching Tech's website. I entered my bed dimensions and it gave me some Gcode to print out the cube with.
I wanted to cut just the top off of this cube and change some parameters in the slicer, but I couldn't change anything, I guess since it wasn't an .STL file.
I tried digging through the code to find the code for things like infill, layer height, etc., but I couldn't find anything. So, I just used the original model and cut the top 3mm off and used that as my test.
First test was to print using the default settings for draft, normal, and best. As you can tell by the model on the left, the draft quality was pretty good. Better than the Gcode that was generated from Teaching Tech's site. The normal test was even better. So much better than the previously generated code that I didn't even bother printing the best quality test.
Maybe someone who is a bit more skilled could look at the code here: teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#baseline. The only parameters I entered was for the bed dimensions being 235x235 and the hot end temp being 220.
Maybe I'm not having extruder problems. I guess my next test will be to print the top of the cube with the same line settings I did the 2nd palette with and see how that turns out. I'm guessing it's going to look like shit.
There is done dirt on the print on the left and done weird shit at the top of the print on the right. Not sure what happened, I couldn't actually see what was going on on the bed.

>>2000202
Interesting to note that your thin vertical flat is not constrained at the ends, so it's more free to contract as it cools.

I tried printing the triangular prism at 10mm/sec and the stretch marks still showed up, so I redesigned the profile to have concave faces instead of flat. This stabilized the profile.

>>2000248
Bonus points to you if you make it heat up using the compressor.

Just as I suspected...
But it took only 4 minutes to print instead of 12 for the draft version. That's why I try it this way. But I guess this isn't a hobby where you try to rush things so I should try to be more patient.

>>1999388
>>1999400
>>1999468
If anyone else reads this with the same problem, Ive since fixed it. The problem WAS the up/down movement on the Z axis, but it wasn't because of the rollers or the screw itself. Rather, the uppermost screw (small black) on the coupling that connect the motor to the z axis screw (huge silver) was over tightened. I loosened it so the gap was symmetrical to the lower screw and am now printing without problems.

>>1999656
You lucked out on cheap stuff. Average PLA cost is $18-22/kg for the reliable ones where you don't have to wonder if it's your spool or your printer that's suddenly gone bad for no reason

>>1999656
Supply and demand boyo.
Lots of people stuck at home bored out of their minds bought 3D printers to keep themselves occupied. Now there's more people buying filament.

>>2000360
Slicer settings can make a big difference on final print quality.
I don't know anything about Teaching Tech, but why not just download an .stl file for a calibration cube in Thingiverse and slice it yourself in Cura?

>>2000205
When i go full out i measure diameter, print temptower and close in on the settings with a small callibration parcourse

>>2000205
I don't do anything because I found a brand of filament that seems to be consistently not shit, so I just buy more of that and use the same settings I've been using.

>>2000319
>Literally manages to run out of filament on a Prusa with a filament detection sensor
How. HOW. HOOOOOOOOOOW?!

Thingiverse is kind of lame. For years, I called it "Thing-verse" without a second thought. I never heard someone actually pronounce the website until recently on a 3D printing video. I never really checked out the website, because I didn't have a need to, until recently that is. Since then, I have been having second thoughts about these so called "makers".
Thingiverse is chock full of unoriginal hacks. How many times have you seen some thing remixed when it didn't need to be? The userbase basically steals the work that someone else did, someone who was foolish enough to post their OC on the web. It's like making a bad ass meme and posting it here, only to see your OC with an iFunny watermark some weeks later. It's fucking lame. The best memes are the ones that are kept private and not shared across the web. Sure, I might let you take a peek at my ultra-rare Pepe collection in person, but I'll be damned if I'm going to post even one rare Apu here. Not anymore at least.
If you are a real memer, you know exactly what I mean. Just like if you are a real maker, you also know exactly what I mean. The best memes and models aren't shared across the web. Sure, share a screenshot showcasing your thousands of meticulously curated and organized private meme folders, but don't share that with the unwashed masses. The masses who would just take your hard work and claim it as their own.
Likewise, don't post your private models anywhere, not even here. Do share pictures of your hard work but don't give up your codes so easily. Doing so would cost you more than you know.

>>2000480
Is it your first day on the internet?
It's basically just like forking an open-source project. Thingiverse keeps tracks of what it's remixed from and it's something the author explicitely grants others the rights to by publishing it under a license like CreativeCommons. It's not theft in any way.

>>2000480
May I interest you in a book?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Cathedral_and_the_Bazaar

>>2000329
Same applies save for the control board then, unless it's sourced directly from China without some EU QA, in which case you'll have to evaluate the SKR yourself and risking replacing it too. At least with the Ender you already know you have to replace it.

Left this Chinese piece of shit working overnight and woke up to this. Not terribly bad, save for the stringing. It reappeared when I did taller z-hops because I had gotten knocked prints. Maybe I should increase retraction; I am happy with the temperature at 200, as it gives me good enough layer adhesion.

>>2000528
It's a Chinese piece of shit, but it's my Chinese piece of shit.

>>2000438
Because the sensor if infamously unreliable.

Now that MakeAnything solved hobbyist color printing in theory, have any companies showcased something along similar lines but slightly more advanced than using sharpies?

>>2000533
Should have bought Creality

>>2000531
>>2000528
Try increasing your retraction speed, not your distance. The faster speed might pull more filament up in the nozzle vs a slower pull.

>>2000480
>If you are a real memer
Most cringeworthy post I've seen on /diy/ in some time

>>2000480
>>>/ck/

>>2000268
>EPA approved test of nicking one of the lines
uh

>>2000601
Slicers can estimate how much you are going to need filament so you dont really need one anyways.

How can I make Cura slice faster? I just want a time estimate for a 10" diameter moon model but it sits there slicing for 20 damn minutes before I give up.

>>2000691
what the fuck are your settings .07 layer height 100% infill? I mean cura is a dog but that's ridiculous even if your computer is a potato.

Someone redpill me on tree supports.

I occasionally see people online raving about them and claiming that Cura is the best slicer just because it has tree supports, but while I can see the appeal in some cases I fail to see what the hype is about. It seems to me that in almost every case, you're better off thinking about your model and manually placing supports where you actually need them, reducing the amount you need to a minimum and thus not only saving on time, filament and electricity, but also making post-processing a lot easier since you don't have to remove big chunks of support material. I've played around with Cura's tree supports and it seems Cura loves adding way more support than is actually necessary.

I guess it's nice for people who can't make or edit their own models and it does offer a somewhat more sensible style of auto-generated support than the default nonsense that Cura gets up to, but people are treating it like it's some kind of revolutionary feature which, to my mind, is just absolutely not true.

>get a Creality printer
>kinda hate the default build plate it comes with
>decide to replace it with a simple mirror
>can't find any mirror that's the right size without having it be custom made which is relatively expensive
>finally find one
>slightly bigger than I need but should be fine
>it's from a store in Germany but shipping is free so whatever
>a week later it arrives
>put it on my printer
>it's literally just 1mm too wide to fit through the gantry
>mfw

>>2000694
0.12 and 100% infil but it's a hollow model with like 1/4" walls. Running on a Ryzen 5 1600 with 16GB RAM. Every other model slices fine but the moon is a killer. The 2" one I actually printed took like 10 minutes to slice.

>>2000704
Are you making Cura generate supports for you? Cura gets slow as thick shit when slicing auto-generated tree supports for big/complex models.

Still shouldn't be 20 minutes though.

>>2000701
Why don't you buy a cutting tool and diy they're cheap

>>2000696
tree supports look like they waste an insane amount of resources, but they're essentially hollow and connect at the most minor points. there is no better way I've found to get a flat smooth surface. They're easier to remove than even a brim and since they don't originate on the model, you don't get the bottom level artifacts. all my models with tree supports are quick and easy to remove the supports and the result is cleaner.

and if you're just punching the tree support button without thinking about your model, printer, overhang etc. sure you're going to get some baseline oversupported shit, which is fine but there is an entire rainbow between custom adding supports to each model and just hitting the tree support button and being mad.

if you want to spend hours tweaking your support designs to feel like you've produced artisanal prints be my guest. Personally I'd rather be focusing on designing a better model and let the computer do the monkey work of adding supports.

Also when people rave about tree supports it's because they are far and away better than any other traditional type of support. Personally I'd put them up against something you custom supported, but most people aren't considering that you'd prefer the long hard manual way vs. tree, they're looking at tree vs. any other type of generated support.

They're fucking great, what else can I say?

>>2000701
>not cutting your own glass with a $5 purpose made tool

Anon this is the /diy/ board. You should know about such things.

>>2000717

>>2000711
I am using tree supports, yes. I'll try without next time since again I mostly just want the time estimate and I'll probably do manual support if I end up printing it.

>>2000704
>100% infil but it's a hollow model with like 1/4" walls.
is it? I'm guessing cura isn't seeing it that way because if it isn't open at one end I don't think it sees inside walls. make it 1" and slice it and try to figure out the problem. or 10% infill and slice that. or lower the poly count because you probably have some godawful HD 4000K version that couldn't possibly be relevant at the scale you're printing it.

>>2000723
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4102658

I printed the 2" one and I've sliced the 4" int the past and the time definitely scales exponentially with the diameter. I guess most people who print this large just let it calculate for a few hours and hope they didn't miss a setting. Or maybe other slicers handle it better.

>>2000725
>slicer calculating for a few hours
Holy fuck, do people really?
Even on my AMD 3 core from 2012 doing large models that took up most of the build plate never took more than a minute. It's a matter of like 5 seconds with larger models on my newer ryzen. What the fuck are you running? A netbook with an intel atom?

>>2000736
>What the fuck are you running
>>2000704
try it yourself

>>2000744
I did. 8 inch moon model took 1 minute and around 30 seconds to slice at standard quality with a .4mm nozzle.

or am I doing the wrong model?

>>2000748
no, that's right. Is there some hidden setting to allow multithreading or max RAM or something? I swear it sits and thinks forever for me.

>>2000748
did you use tree supports?

>>2000748
switched to 100% infill

Pic shows CPU utilization. The heavy spike is when I started the slicer and the progress of it so far. Scale is 60 seconds.

if you want you can save your cura settings and send them over, I'll run the slice for you if it takes you literal hours to do.

>>2000756
I'm not home right now but try 0.12mm, 70mm/s, 100% infill, raft, tree supports. I'm more interested in getting it working right on my machine than the output itself also.

>>2000755
>>2000759
Enabling tree supports is what fucks it. Cura stopped using 100% of my CPU about 30 seconds in and it's been sitting at around 30% for 10 minutes now. I just stopped it. Tree supports are generative design, yes? That's probably why it's having such a hard time with this extremely detailed model.

>>2000762
thanks for looking into this

>>2000764
if you're trying to go for the lamp why not slice it into 2 pieces? One piece can be the majority of the moon, say 3/4 of it, the other slice could be the other 1/4 and you could glue them together after they're done. that way there you get decent build plate adhesion and you don't have to deal with any supports at all, meanwhile the seam will hopefully be somewhere underneath the base plate.

>>2000744
>try it yourself
I'm not the one crying on a rice noodle board about my computer not being able to handle the moon anon.

>>2000766
here's the model with line supports. absolute monstrosity.

>>2000748
go to preview
slide side slider halfway down
screenshot

I want to see this.

>>2000768
>imagine the inside

>>2000766
Ideally I want the whole sphere as accurate as possble then it can be lit from below without necessarily needing an internal light. My parents give astronomy lectures to schools and sxout groups a d stuff and I thought it'd be a neat prop they could pass around but also leave lit on a table.

>>2000767
sometimes "try it yourself" just means "try it yourself" you sensitive retard.

>>2000768
yeah this is what I want to avoid.

>>2000769
Why can't they have just made the model thinner and used a smooth inside?

This is an absolutely fucking insane model.

>>2000768
>>2000771
also important to do supports as "touching buildplate" so the inside doesn't fill with support too

>>2000773
the outside is supposed to be topographically accurate but the inside varies in thickness to produce darker or lighter areas as the moon appears in a telescope.

>>2000775
i was interested in doing this, but always wondered how these get illuminated
to you sit the lamp ontop of a spot?

>>2000438
The way he talked about it it sounded like it stopped for him, he just took the part off without refilling and letting it finish.

>>2000775
Yeah, the outside could still be that, but the inside could be smooth.

>>2000777
for the 2" one ai just set it kn top of my phone's light and that works. But you can tell some details are lacking at that size.

>>2000785
but then the color wouldn't be right. the peaks of craters would be the darkest things which is basically opposite of what it actuallly looks like. Also I'm pretty sure it was just generated from data and not touched up practically in any way.

>>2000661
>retraction speed
I'll try that next print, thanks for the tip
>retraction distance
I needed it because I was getting curling on multiple-section layers, leading to knocking off some parts
>chinky tools
Are you the guy who posted that and then cut and pasted the "chinky tool" part to the spool holder? If that's the case, you owe me a pair of sides.

>>2000797
Yes.

>>2000809
If my memory doesn't fail me too much, you are a fellow Ender 3 owner; what retraction speed is working for you on PLA?

>>2000429
I don't have my computer set up near my printer right now so I'm using AstroPrint to slice, which uses Cura 3.6 on their end. The reason I was using Teaching Tech's code is because it is part of his calibration process. I already have the STL, that's how I made the 3mm Z faces.

maybe im retarded but when you slice something and inspect the gcode does the gcode preview show exactly how it will print or just an estimate? like if it has gaps in the layers will the print have gaps?

>>2000829

>>2000842
Nobody said "best", anon. This chinese piece of shit is the only thing I can reliably import into my shithole 70% tax country surfing down the right slope of the Laffer curve within my shithole 70% tax country surfing down the right slope of the Laffer curve budget.

>>2000840
it is an estimate made by the settings of the slicer.
The slicer doesnt know if a 0.4mm line will be exactly that in reality(likely not), especially on acceleration/deacceleration sections

In most cases, gabs in the slicer will be smeared over because default cura extrudes way to much plastic.

>>2000840
The Gcode preview is a representation of the tool moves. The thickness of the lines you see represents the amount of extruder motion. Just because the extruder isn't moving doesn't mean there isn't any material flowing out of the nozzle.
In fact this is what the coasting feature does, it stops the extruder a bit early right before a retraction.

>>2000202
what's with the masking tape around the sd card slot?

>>2000860
If I were to take a guess, anon is fucking blind and can't see the slot.

>>2000860
it's powdercoated steel that's been laser cut leaving an exposed steel edge. just seemed like a bad idea to drag micro SD contacts over it and I haven't bothered to print a guide/cover.

>>2000861
fucking blind and hands no longer work, it's all part of being a boomer

>>2000861
i have the same printer and i'm just wondering if there's a function or he's just autistic like me and hates the feeling when you miss the slot. it's really unpleasant

>>2000852
perfect, thanks. is much better now. ***SIP***

>>2000864
also this

>>2000869
Motherfucker. Well played.

Tree supports work though; eli5 pretty please?

just made the switch to superslicer
what a nice fork, its everything ive ever wanted

hey enderanons, what x/y acceleration / jerk do you guys drive?
/ss/ default is 9000mm/s2, seems a bit too high considering cura defaults at 500 but lets see how that goes

>>1999480
There are English subtitles as of now.

>>2000889
thanks! i'll check it out.

>>2000809
Neat!
Just today my order of chinkshit HSS drill bits arrived. But it came without a case. Does anyone know of any drill bit cases that I could print?

I want to make something 3D but I'm not sure what program to use it or how to do it.
Essentially I want to take two complex shapes, overlay those, merge them, get rid of everything where the two shapes aren't overlapping, stretch that in 3D in a tube (but not round) and then print the result. Is that easy to do or hard? Is there a free program I could use to do it or perhaps one that requires a shanty?
It would basically be like overlaying a square and a circle, then cutting off the corners of the square. My explanation is probably stupid, hope someone understands what I'm saying.

>>2000905
step 1 is a boolean operation, you can do it in every 3D program worth a damn.
including blender.
I don't quite follow what you mean by step 2, since it could be interpreted in a lot of ways.

First printer, first print. What can I do to make the layer lines less visible?
Not sure what details you would need to diagnose. It's a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height, using AMZ3D Grey PLA at 215C, printing at 50mm/s. Printer is an Anycubic Mega-S (Prusa clone). Slicer is Cura 4.8

The whole process was pretty painless and the print is a lot cleaner than I expected. Just wish it looked a little smoother.

Has anyone here used both OctoPrint and AstroPrint? Since I'm kind of forced to use AstroPrint right now I'm getting really curious about it. I can see why someone would like it, even though it has its limitations. Like I don't like being a not able to use an actual slicer, especially one that isn't to the latest revision. But if AstroPrint runs on OctoPrint in the back end, then they are pretty similar aren't they?
The only advantage that I could think of of using AstroPrint over OctoPrint would be having the cloud feature. And being able to slice online is nice I suppose. Seems like they both can have a device with the touch screen attached to it, so you can set up your OctoPi with the touch screen, so I guess it would be really similar to the AstroBox then. But I wanted to see what you guys thought about that before I committed myself to one or the other.
One thing I really dislike about AstroPrint is that you can't have multiple copies of the same file. You can have one STL file and that generate multiple G-Code files under that yeah, but if you try to put that same STL file into different folders it won't let you. OctoPrint is probably more powerful since it can use plugins.

>>2000928
lower layer height will help but it looks like you have some issues there anyway.

Any thoughts on adding the CR6SE to the recommended printers list? Three of my friends each got one when we all got a hair up our collective asses on 3D printing, and they're great as an entry point. They've got a good feature set (notably the tard-easy auto bed leveling) and the print quality is pretty great out of the box. The only flaws I've seen so far are a propensity for the bed screws to be loose (loctite the suckers) and the power switch being a flimsy piece of shit. If you get some cheapo switches off amazon it's a 15-minute replacement. I don't see any reason to recommend the ender 3 over it unless it's like half the price. The ABL, quiet drivers, and belt tensioners alone make it worth the extra dough.

>>2000928
>>2000932
Bumped up the extrusion multiplier by 2% and trying again.

>>2000933
the ender pro is half the price, a tried and true platform and has the better interface
for 35$ one can buy the skr mini which blows all these shit creality boards out of the water

tensioning belts is a 1x job and takes 2 hex wrenches, so hard i guess?
ABL is a huuuge waste of time in comparison to just standard leveling

remember, the only thing that makes the ender good is being the cheapest palatable option
meanwhile the cr6 is an ender facelift that adds unecessary complexity and room for error like the screen or second z axis with the belt on top.
Imagine the Z wobble, holy shit.
All that while sharing the same shortcomings the ender has, like the shit not adjustable extruder and the for cool air starved hotend

>>2000928
You fell for the chink scam, should have bought a Prusa

>>2000941
>the for cool air starved hotend
Pretty sure the CR-6 uses a V6 clone.
That being said the stock Ender 3 hotend doesn't overheat. Hell, it's good enough that reversing the airflow doesn't affect it in any way,

I got my first 3D Printer, a Photon Zero today, I set it up as said by the instructions, and got it to print the sample. When I said to print, it dove into the vat of resin and started working, but I'm halfway done and there's been 0 visible change or movement. I didn't fill it up to the max, and I'm getting nervous because I feel like I should see something. Please help

>>2000962
>V6 clone
pretty sure it doesnt. Heatblock is the mk10, still with the 2 countersunk heatcreep screws instead of using a fucking hardened m3 setscrew.
Of course the airflow is good enough for the hotend, its teflon lined. When you swap to all metall chances are you hit a wall with that. I could only get that to work printing high volume

funfact, Why are the fans on the ender so loud?
The fan cutouts on the Hotend and mainboard lid are undersized and obstuct the blades

>>2000928
Same thing with 102% flow rate. Fewer gaps between layers, but still extremely pronounced layer lines.

>>2000928
>>2000994
goto >>1999156
>>Your print failed? Go to:
>https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>>2000999
I have. I am posting the process of troubleshooting. Notice how no one has helped me, yet I determined that part of my problem was under-extrusion. I suspect the rest of my problem is an issue of belt tension.

>>2000829
whatever cura set as default always worked great for PLA. pic related. All I have is problems with PETG.

>>2000896
make one yourself. You can call it your own and no one will have one just like it.

>>2001001
>Notice how no one has helped me
Please mention what have you tried before. Also, there was another anon who did offer help.
I'll throw in my ¢2:
>check the bed carriage for wobbling
>check the bed springs for looseness
>check for grit on the rails (yes, even if factory new)

>>2000964
Bump

>>2000994
Your hobb gear hole is not centered
Should not have fell for the chinkshit scam

>>2000994
you got problems beyond layer gaps. even a cheap 2nd hand monoprice mini produces better quality than this.

>>2000919
Like this (if it makes sense).
The two images would be 2D. The resulting overlapped image would be stretched to make it 3D.

>>2001059
yeah that's fairly elementary
literally any 3D modelling software that isn't Windows 3D Build should be able to do it

>>2001059
So, you take the intersection of a circle and a triangle, and then extrude that?
You deserve to be forced to learn OpenSCAD.

>>2001071
>OpenSCAD
whatever you did that makes you think you have to do this to yourself
it can't have been that bad

>>2001069
That's good to know! I guess I'll have to download some software and try it out then. I've tried using Blender in the past but I thought it was really complicated for what I was doing, which was pretty much just editing skins and light modeling for games like Dark Souls or BDO.

>>2001071
Yeah that's pretty much the idea except it wouldn't be a circle and a triangle, it would be two secret shapes.

>>2001073
Fusion 360 is free and should do what you need

>>2001059
Oh that's extremely easy, just an extrusion.
Almost any 3d suite would have an extrude tool. It's the most fundamental function in box modeling.
So just use a boolean operation to make the cap, then extrude. Or make the cap however you want, that's easy shit.

>>2001081
>So just use a boolean operation
just use the fucking sketch tools you weirdo

God I fucking love the feeling of a project slowly coming together.

Still waiting on the nema 17 motor in the mail for the Z height.

why the FUCK will Cura not let me use a layer height over .3mm even when I have a 1mm nozzle selected?

>>2001102
ignore the fact that I have an .8mm nozzle selected in that picture, of course

>>2001073
potato tutorial

also this is what >>2001091 meant, you have to shift+click any area created by the overlapping sketch, so it's actually easier to do the boolean intersection than it is to do the shapes in this case.

I really should be doing something more productive.

>>2001140
oh 1. is:
>created sketch
>click on an orange plane
FML

>>2001096
May have problems with slag melting the plastic, heat, or UV degradation.

>>2001150
I'm mainly worried about heat. If I notice the torch gets a little too hot I'll cut out some steel plates to replace the plastic. if it's UV I can just paint the thing. But right now it'd take hours with the tools I got to get any sort of accuracy and making it look non-nigger rigged.

>>2001151
>But right now it'd take hours with the tools I got to get any sort of accuracy and making it look non-nigger rigged
to make it out of steel*

>>2001140
Wow, thanks for that! Downloading now so I can give it a shot.

If I printed something like a 100mm x 100mm square 0.5mm thick in white and then changed filaments to a diferent color, could I print something on to that sheet and would it stick? Assuming I got the hotend in the right place that is. Like if I printed a white star on the red sheet. Would it be better to make a model that had the shape I'm adding to it sunk down a bit for better adhesion?

>>2001220
star first is probably better. I've never done this but one of the first videos I watched.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNLyF6gjOp8

>>2000292
the moon

got the 10" to slice but it gave me 13 days, 14 hours, 24 mins, and 1200g of material so I'm going to pass on that for now.

>>2001235
Damn that looks nice. Do the 10" you pussy.

>>2001235
Pretty.

>>2001235
>13 day print
that stressed me out a little, not gunna lie

>>2001246
I don't want to have to babysit it for 2 weeks and hope I catch the spool change in time. Plus with my luck it'll clog on me after a few days.

>>2001247
yeah I'm still surprised how nice some things come out.

>>2001251
to be fair that's at 0.12mm. 0.2 is probably way less stupid but still a little too stupid for me right now.

>>2001235
>round
>whitish
>got blobs on it
that's certainly the moon, I'd bet ten thousand american dollars that that was the moon

>>2001220
You can do it a few different ways
1. You can add a pause at z height command into the gcode. This can be done with a slicer plugin, or you can just insert it manually after the first Z move in the gcode that isn't in the start block or from a z-hop
2. Add indexing/registration blocks to your CAD file so that every color you intend to print has the same footprint on the buildplate. Every color STL if run centered on the bed will be within the same footprint. You run one color print fully, change the filament, remove the skirts and the registration/indexing parts of the print from the buildplate, then run the second color gcode and so-on
3. You watch the Gcode preview and figure out where to cut the file apart or add pause commands so the printer will wait for you to swap colors.
4. You hover over printer during the first layer of the print and pause it where desired manually.

I've done all of the above with success. registration marks worked well only on printer that have a fixed buildplate, but it allowed me to make a few prints that had more than two colors on the first layer. Most I ever got to look decent was 5 colors for a plaque. All of the other methods can work fine on removable buildplates. And works best if the printer moves to a park position (or you add one to the gcode) during a pause so that you can purge after changing the filament color.

>>2001261
the detail increases dramatically with size. This is the 6" from the Thing page.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4102658

>>2001072
brainlet
It's this simple:

linear_extrude(10)
intersection(){
circle(r=4, %fn=32);
circle(r=5, $fn=3);
}

And you don't have some corporation in control of your "free" software and spying on you

That's nice. It was supposed to be a T-Rex. I knew I should have used a raft instead of a skirt or whatever. The last thing I printed before this needed a skirt too. Just some little filament clip. But the default settings made the edge of it go like 15mm beyond the model and I haven't had a chance to really play with those settings yet. At least it was something small and not something that would have printed for several hours before failing. This looks like it failed right at the start. I should have watched at least the first layer but I was in a hurry this morning.

>>2001267
thanks to you anon Imma 3d print the moon

>>2001220
>If I printed something like a 100mm x 100mm square 0.5mm thick in white and then changed filaments to a diferent color, could I print something on to that sheet and would it stick?
Yes. Generally the way to do this would be to slice the sheet+thing as one model, and include a filament change instruction at the specified height.

Can anyone recommend a cooling system for an Ender 3 for the E3D V6? I don't care if I have to buy some fans or connecting bits to make it work. The only thing I ask is that it be a bowden version. Seems like the majority of these cooling systems are for direct drive.

>>2001412
Ive been doing a lot of testing with this recently, tried half a dozen shrouds with a fan pushing more cfm than the stock.

While noisy, i havent beaten the stock performance yet and it is a lot more compact

>>1999480
>can someone translate
Subtitles m8

>>2001277
Nono, it's not a circle and a triangle, it is muH sEcrEt And ProPRIetaRY spOokY ShaPEs

>>2001096
You might want to consider thickening those walls, they seem a tad thin, especially around the torch, not 100% sure it is necessary though.

>>2001096
Oh and also, you don't really want to use those springy threaded rod adaptor thingies, rather print a rigid adaptor.

>>2001420
What shrouds have you tried? I'm currently using a Mini Me (the lewd frog legs), considering printing a Satsana. I hate the stock shroud with every quark of my body.

Also, I fucking lost the little spacers that go behind the heatsink in the stock version and the Satsana, as the Mini Me attaches there. If I print a replacement spacer in PETg, it should survive, right? The Mini Me has a couple pieces there.

New Thread
>>2001532

>>2001432
>Subtitles m8
they weren't; there when I watched.

>>1999999
>>2000000

>>2001497
Oh my! my bad
fixed:

linear_extrude(10)
intersection(){
muHsEcrEtAndProPRIetaRYspOokYShaPE1();
muHsEcrEtAndProPRIetaRYspOokYShaPE2();
}
module muHsEcrEtAndProPRIetaRYspOokYShaPE1(){
/* code hidden */
}
module muHsEcrEtAndProPRIetaRYspOokYShaPE2(){
/* code hidden */
}

>>2001989
Based good guy Greg.

I want to print FAST! What printer should I buy / make?